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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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■iaiM    12.5 


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us 


us. 


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1.25  III  1.4 

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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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WTO" 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)S7!l-4503 


*<?• 


l/.A 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductlons  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


6^ 


j: 


Tschnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notaa  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  anamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibiiographieaily  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaekad  balow. 


□   Colourad  covers/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


rn   Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagia 


□   Covars  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurAa  at/ou  palliculAa 

□   Covar  titia  miasing/ 
La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


r~T|   Colourad  mapa/ 


D 


D 
D 


D 


Cartaa  gAographiquaa  an  coulaur 


Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  biua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


pn   Colourad  platas  and/or  illuatrationa/ 


n 


Pfanchaa  at/ou  illuatrationa  ^n  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rail*  avac  d'autraa  documants 


Tight  binding  may  cauaa  shadowa  or  diatortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  f  liura  —rri9  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
distorsion  i«  kMig  d«  la  marga  intiriaura 

Blank  laavaa  addad  during  raatoratlon  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibla.  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  cartainaa  pagas  blanchas  ajoutias 
lors  d'una  raatauration  apparaiaaant  dana  la  taxta, 
maia,  lorsqua  caia  itait  poaaibla.  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  *t«  film^aa. 

Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairaa  supplAmantairaa: 


Th 
to 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm*  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  At*  possibia  da  sa  procurer.  Los  ditails 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  sont  paut-*tra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibiiographiqua.  qui  pauvant  modifier 
una  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  mAthode  normaia  da  fiimage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


T~7\   Coloured  pagaa/ 
li/J   Pagaa 


Pagaa  da  coulaur 

Pagaa  damaged/ 
Pagaa  andommagAaa 

Pagas  raatorad  and/oi 

Pagaa  reatauriae  at/ou  pailicuidea 

Pagaa  diacoiourad.  stained  or  foxei 
Pagaa  dAcoioriea.  tacheties  ou  piquAes 

Pagaa  detached/ 
Pagaa  ditachias 

Showthroughy 
Tranaparance 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualit*  inigala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  metiriel  supplimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


r~*1  Pagaa  damaged/ 

|~n  Pages  reatored  and/or  laminated/ 

pn  Pagaa  diacoiourad.  stained  or  foxed/ 

r~l  Pagaa  detached/ 

r~71  Showthrough/ 

pn  Quelity  of  print  veries/ 

r~l  Includes  supplementary  materiel/ 

rn  Only  edition  available/ 


D 


Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  Image/ 
Lea  pagea  totaiement  ou  partieliement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiilet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  4ti  filmies  i  nouveeu  de  fa^on  A 
obtanir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Th 
po 
of 
fil 


Or 
be 
th( 
si< 
ot 
fir 
sit 
or 


Th 
sh 
Til 
w» 

Ml 
dif 
em 
bei 
rig 
rec 
mc 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  cheeked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  filmi  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


28X 


30X 


J 


12X 


16X 


20X 


2«X 


2IX 


32X 


The  copy  film«cl  hare  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'axampiaira  fiim*  fut  raproduit  grica  A  ia 
ginAroaitA  da: 

BibiiothAqua  nationala  du  Canada 


Tha  imagas  appearing  hara  ara  tha  bast  quaiity 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  iagibiiity 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacif ications. 


Laa  imagaa  suivantaa  ont  §t€  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  Taxampiaira  film*,  at  an 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copiaa  in  printed  paper  covera  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impree- 
sion,  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  lieginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eat  ImprimAa  sent  filmte  en  commenpent 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminent  aoit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporta  une  empreinte 
d'impreasion  ou  d'lllustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  lea  autras  exempleires 
originaux  aont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreaaion  ou  d'lllustration  at  en  terminent  par 
la  darnlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^»>  (meening  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAre  imege  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
caa:  le  symbols  -<►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  cherts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ara  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  §tre 
filmte  k  des  taux  de  rMuction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  an  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nteessaira.  Les  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrent  le  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

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6 

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CANADIAI^   GUIDE-BOOK 

COMPLETE  IN  ONE   VOLUME 
A  GUIDE  TO 

(Eastern  €anaba  anb  NetDfottnblanb 

INCLUDING  FULL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 

ROUTES,  CITIES,  POINTS  OF  INTEREST,  SUMMER  RESORTS, 

INFORMATION  FOR  SPORTSMEN,  ETC. 

By  CHARLES  G.   D.   ROBERTS 

LATE   PROFESSOR  OF  ENGLISH  LITERATURE  IN  KINO'S  COLLEGE,  WINDSOR,  N.  S. 

AND 

tOcstcrn  €auaba  to  bancontjcr's  Selanb 

INCLUDING  THE  CANADIAN  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  h 

AND  NATIONAL   PARK,  AND 
ROUTES  TO  THE  YUKON  GOLD  FIELDS 

WITH  MAPS  AND  MANY  ILLUSTRATIONS 


^ 


? 


NEW   YORK 

D.    APPLETON    AND    COMPANY 

1898 


o 


yy^ 


> 


I 


Copyright,  1891,  1892,  1894,  1895,  1896,  1897,  1898, 
By  D.  APPLETON  AND  COMPANY. 


U 


CONTENTS. 


lNTBt>miCTION 


PAQR 
1 


EASTERN   CANADA, 
PROVINCE  OF  ONTARIO. 


.•*,-  V 


Th£  Niagara  River 

Niagara  Falls    . 
From  Niagara  to  Toronto 

The  Water  Route 

The  Jouniey  by  Rail 

Hamilton    . 

Toronto 

The  Muskoka  District 
From  Toronto  eastward 

Kingston     . 

The  Thousand  Islands 

The  St.  Lawrence  Rapids 

Ottawa 
From  Ottawa  to  Montreal 


6 
18 
13 
16 
18 
21 
30 
35 
41 
44 
46 
49 
54 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


Province  op  Quebec 

Montreal  .... 
From  Montreal  to  St.  John 
From  Montreal  to  Quebec  . 

By  the  St.  Lawrence  River 

By  Rail  on  the  South  Shore 

By  Rail  on  the  North 

Quebec       .... 
From  Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John  , 

Lake  St.  John   . 
Down  the  St.  Lawrence  and  up  the  Saouenav 

The  Saguenay  River 

From  Chicoutimi  to  the  Mouth 

Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity     . 
From  Montbbal  to  the  Maritime  Provinces: 

By  Rail      .       .  

By  Steamship  round  Gaspg      .... 

The  Ga8p6  Peninsula 


69 

61 

72 

74 

74 

80 

81 

82 

97 

99 

108 

107 

108 

110 

111 
115 
117 


IV  CONTENTS. 

PROVINCE  OF  NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

'  FAOE 

The  Pbovince  or  New  Bbunswick 122 

The  ]{e8tiKouchc               ....                128 

From  the  Rkwtiooucue  to  Moncton 187 

The  Mframlchl 180 

Moncton 132 

Trips  fuom  Moncton 188 

From  Moncton  to  St.  John 134 

St.  John 188 

Up  the  River  St.  John 142 

Fredericton 148 

From  Fredericton  to  Woodstock 158 

The  Upper  St.  John  ....                               ....  158 

The  Grand  Falls  of  the  St.  John 156 

Above  the  Grand  Falls 158 

Routes  for  the  Sportsman 160 

Up  the  Tobique  by  Canoe 166 

Bt  Rail  from  Woodstock 181 

Canipobello  and  Grand  Manan 184 

The  Return  to  St.  JohiI 187 

From  Moncton  to  Amherst 188 


PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

Prince  Edward  Island 108 

Charlottetown 1»5 

From  Charlottetown  eastward 107 

NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Nova  Scotia 200 

To  PicTou  AND  Antigonish 208 

Cape  Breton 207 

Through  the  Bras  d'Or  Waters  to  Sydney 308 

Baddeck 200 

•Sydney 211 

LouieBURG 212 

From  New  Glasgow  to  Truro  and  Halifax 215 

Truro 215 

Halifax 218 

From  Halifax  to  Briduewater 280 

From  Bbidgewater  to  Yarmouth 243 

Yarmonth  .       .        .        . 245 

From  Halifax  eastward      .       .  - 246 

From  Halifax  to  Yarmouth  by  Rail 247 

Windsor 348 

From  Windsor  to  Parrsbobo  and  St.  John 250 

From  Windsor  to  Grand  Pr£ 258 


,              '                                      CONTENTS.  V 
t 

PAGE 

From  Wolfvili.e  to  Annapolis 8fi0 

From  Annapolis  to  Yarmouth 860 

NEWFOUNDLAND.  / 

TuE  Island  op  Newfoundland 887 

St.  John's 288 

Trips  from  St.  John's 881 

Along  the  Coast 888 

•     Conception  Bay  and  the  South  C()ai>t 834 

The  French  Shore 887 


WESTERN   VAN  An  A. 
Montreal  to  Ottawa  ; 

a.  By  the  Canadian  Pacific  Ry jfv    •       •       •       •  *6fl 

6.  By  the  Canadian  Atlantic  Ry %'\  •       •       •       •  '^'' 

Ottawa r      ...  867 

Ottawa  to  Sudbuby 868 

Sudbury  to  Ja.ult  Sie.  Marie 270 

Sudbury  To^^rasiPEo 870 

North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior 871 

Manitoba 875 

Winnipeg 278 

Winnipeg  to  Reoina 877 

AssiNiBoiA 879 

Reojna  to  Prince  Albert 881 

Saskatchewan 282 

Regina  to  Calgary 283 

Alberta 885 

Calgary  to  Donald 288 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Park  op  Canada 280 

British  Columbia 892 

Donald  to  Vancouver .       .297 

Vancouver .306 

Vancouver  to  Victoria 807 

Victoria 807 

The  Yukon  Gold  Fields 808 


APPENDIX  FOR  SPORTSMEN. 


General  Infornaation   .... 

Lessees  of  Fishing  Rights  . 

Close  Seasons  for  Fishing  and  Hiintin 


8 
314 
117 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


/^*'< 


FACINO   PAOB 

Niagara  Pallh  rnoM  Prospect  Park 4 

The  American  Falls 8 

Luna  Fallh  and  the  Kock  of  Aoes IS 

In  the  Thouwand  Isles 44 

Parliament  Buildinos,  Ottawa M 

Timber  afloat  at  the  Haw-mills,  Ottawa 52 

Long  Sault  Rai'ius {MJ 

Running  Lachine  Rapids B8 

Fort  Chamblt,  on  the  Richelieu  River 70 

Citaoel  at  Quebec 87 

Cape  Gasp£ 119 

Gasp6  Residents  returning  from  Church 117 

Perc£  Rock 120 

The  Beach  at  Paspebiac,  and  View  of  the  Bay 128 

Valley  of  the  Metapedia 126 

A  Moose  Family 146 

Curing  Fish  at  Perc4 160 

Caribou  Migration 108 

Cape  Pobcupine,  and  Cape  St.  George 189 

The  Steamer  Stanley,  Prince  Edward  Island 191 

The  Oldest  House  in  Prince  Edward  Island 193 

Old  Fireplace  at  Entry  Island 197 

The  Mail-boat  at  Prince  Edward  Island 201 

On  the  Road  to  Baddeck .       .       .209 

LouiSBURO  Memorial 215 

St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  before  the  Fire  of  1892  ....  229 
The  Monthly  Mail  Train  from  Hall's  Bay  to  Codroy  .  .  .232 
Government  Houses  and  Town  Pumps  at  St.  Pierre  ,       .       .       .236 

Cape  Blomidon 252 

Cape  Split 254 

The  Sault  Ste.  Marie  Ship  Canal  (View  of  the  Locks,  looking  toward 

Lake  Superior) 270 


Vlll 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Bow  River  Valley  from  Upper  Hot  Springs 

The  Great  Glacier 

Indians  near  New  Westminster. 


facing  page 
.    288 

.    299 

.    804 


MAPS. 


Plan  of  Montreal  

Plan  op  Toronto     ,       .       .       .       . 

Plan  of  (Quebec 

The  GASpfi  Peninsula 

Belle  Isle  Strait    ..... 
Canadian  Salmon  Rivers  and  Gaspe  Basin 


64 
21 

8.3 
115 
233 
202 


Nepigon  River 272 

Canadian  National  Park .290 

General  Map,  Province  of  Ontario  ....              .In  Pocket. 
"           "       Province  op  Quebec    ...               .        .  " 

"           "       Maritime  Provinces            .        .               .        .  " 

"  "       Northwestern  Canada " 


salmon 


/^^f'^^^J 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  dear  home  of  freemen  brave  and  true, 
And  loving  honor  more  than  ease  or  gold. 

AoNES  Maulb  Machar. 

Stretching  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  from  Lake  Erie  to 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  occupying  a  more  spacious  territory  than  the  United 
States  and  Alaska,  lies  the  great  dominion  to  which  the  name  of  Canada 
now  applies,  a  country  whose  people  are  engrossed  in  the  work  of  na- 
tion-making. Perhaps  nowhere  el?  3  in  the  world,  at  this  present  day, 
are  such  mighty  forces  stirring  to  such  gigantic  and  uncalculated  issues. 
Within  a  decade  there  has  come  about  such  a  change  in  the  spirit  of 
the  Canadian  people  that  outside  observers,  judging  from  data  of  ten 
or  fifteen  years  ago,  find  themselves  pathetically  astray  in  their  conclu> 
sions ;  for  the  name  of  Canada,  almost  in  a  day,  has  become  a  name  to 
conjure  with,  from  corner  to  corner  of  this  confederation  which  we 
have  molded  out  of  the  once  scattered  and  half-antagonistic  provinces 
of  British  North  America.  To  the  tourist  whose  interest  centers  chieily 
in  men,  in  institutions,  in  ethnological  and  political  problems,  this  coun- 
try with  a  future  and  not  without  a  significant  past  offers  the  strongest 
possible  attractions.  To  those  who  look  for  magnificence  or  charm  of 
landscape,  for  an  invigorating  climate,  for  the  wholesome  relish  of  rod 
and  gun  and  paddle,  this  region  of  the  North  makes  no  less  active  ap- 
peal. Its  deficiencies,  of  course,  are  those  of  all  new  countries — its 
fields  have  not  been  sown  thick  with  blood  and  tears,  its  cities  lack  the 
magic  of  inexhaustible  memories,  the  treasures  of  a  long-established 
civilization.  One  city,  Quebec,  seems  old  to  us,  and  has  gathered  about 
its  diadem  of  ramparts  much  of  *'  the  light  that  never  was  on  sea  or 
land  " ;  but,  compared  with  Old  World  cities,  it  is  a  growth  of  yesterday. 

The  section  of  Canada  which  is  here  designated  as  Eastern  Canada 
is  in  the  main  coextensive  with  old  Canada  and  Acadia.  The  rich  and 
populous  section  of  Ontario  which  lies  between  Lakes  Erie  and  Huron  is 
avoided,  as  belonging  rather  to  the  Western  than  the  Eastern  tour. 
Toronto  forrcs  the  most  convenient  center  from  which  to  start  west  or 
1 


l<^ 


fi 


2  INTRODUCTION. 

•I 

east.  The  term  Eastern  Canada  includes  a  large  section  of  Ontario, 
with  the  provinces  of  Quebec,  New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Prince 
Edward  Island.  Newfoundland,  and  that  part  of  Labrador  belonging 
to  Newfoundland,  though  not  attached  to  Canada,  are  touched  upon  in 
the  following  pages,  for  the  convenience  of  tourists  who  may  wish  to 
visit  them.  The  territory  to  be  described  may  most  conveniently  be 
covered  in  a  round  trip,  offering  abundant  choice  of  routes,  and  oppor- 
tunity for  attractive  side-trips  front  the  most  important  towns  along 
the  way.  It  is  a  small  territory  compared  with  the  rest  of  the  Do- 
minion, but  it  contains  the  bulk  of  the  population,  much  of  the  finest 
scenery,  many  of  the  best  hunting  and  fishing  resorts,  and  nearly  all 
the  history,  tradition,  and  romance  which  combine  to  clothe  the  name 
of  Canada  with  something  like  a  savor  of  antiquity.  Here  was  the 
center  of  French  power  in  the  New  World,  and  here  was  fought  to  an 
end  the  contest  between  France  and  England.  About  Quebec  and 
Louisburg,  Annapolis  and  Beausejour,  battled  the  Leopards  and  the 
Lilies  for  the  dominion  of  half  a  continent.  Quebec  is  still  mighty, 
the  gateway  to  Canada ;  but  at  Louisburg  the  sheep  pasture  now  where 
stood  but  yesterday  a  great  stronghold,  the  "  Dunkirk  of  America." 
There  broods  a  spell  of  mystery  and  romance  about  the  site  of  this 
obliterated  city.  The  magnitude  and  the  heroism  of  the  struggle  for 
New  France  have  been  perpetuated  for  us  by  Parkman,  and  the  pathos 
of  its  termination,  as  represented  in  a  single  episode,  by  Longfellow. 

The  climate  of  the  St.  Lawrence  region  and  the  Maritime  Prov- 
inces is  in  general  not  unlike  that  of  New  England.  The  climate  of 
Nova  Scotia,  in  particular,  is  neither  so  hot  in  summer  nor  so  cold  in 
winter  as  that  of  the  neighboring  New  England  States.  Summer 
tourists  will  need  to  make  such  provision  against  cool  evenings  and 
occasional  fog  as  they  would  make  if  visiting  the  seaside  resorts  of 
Maine.  In  northeastern  Quebec  the  summers  are  often  chilly,  and 
down  the  giant  funnel  of  the  Saguenay  there  blows  at  times,  in  mid- 
summer, a  wind  which  makes  the  snuggest  wraps  desirable.  As  for 
the  fogs  that  sometimes  roll  in  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  one  may  escape 
them  by  a  jaunt  of  a  mile  or  two  into  the  interior,  or  face  them  and 
experience  the  miracle  which  they  will  work  on  dull  or  faded  complex- 
ions. It  is  to  the  benign  ministrations  of  the  fog  that  the  women  of 
the  Atlantic  seaboard  owe  the  bloom  and  freshness  of  their  faces. 

The  traveler  who  is  well  supplied  with  American  bank-notes  will 
find  no  difficulty  with  the  currency.    American  bills  are  good  all  over 


INTRODUCTION. 


a 


Canada.  i.nerican  silver,  except  in  the  border  communities,  is  some- 
times liable  to  a  discount,  and  in  some  places  may  possibly  be  refused. 
The  silver  coinage  of  Canada  is  uniform  for  the  whole  Dominion,  and 
with  this  the  tourist  should  keep  himself  well  supplied. 

Concerning  the  opportunities  for  making  purchases,  a  Canadian 
writer  says : 

"  If  the  tourist  be  desirous  of  economizing  ingeniously,  he  will  pur- 
chase himself  a  suit  of  clothes  in  Toronto,  Montreal,  or  Halifax,  getting 
a  strong,  English-looking  material  of  Australian  wool,  woven  in  Can- 
ada ;  and  he  will  save  fifty  per  cent  over  a  similar  article  purchased  in 
Boston  or  New  York.  It  is,  of  course,  not  ready-made  goods  that  we 
refer  to,  but  suits  made  to  order.  In  Halifax,  a  suit  of  best  Canadian 
tweed,  durable  and  stylish,  may  be  got  from  a  first-rate  tailor  for  $16 
to  $20 ;  and  a  faultless  dress-suit  of  best  material  for  $35.  In  some 
of  the  smaller  towns,  such  as  Truro  and  Windsor,  in  Nova  Scotia,  skil- 
ful tailors  who  have  learned  their  trade  abroad,  and  keep  themselves 
abreast  of  the  fashion,  are  able,  on  account  of  low  rents  and  small 
taxes,  to  furnish  thoroughly  satisfactory  suits  of  fine  Canadian  tweed, 
of  quiet  and  correct  pattern,  for  $15.  The  lover  of  furs  will  of  course 
make  his  (or  her)  purchases  in  Toronto  or  in  Quebec  city,  where  the 
great  fur-shops  supply  these  goods  in  variety  and  of  best  quality,  at 
prices  quite  unheard-of  in  American  cities.  Indian  work — moccasins, 
bark-  and  quill-work,  etc. — are  usually  to  be  purchased  at  counters  in 
the  chief  hotels  and  on  the  Saguenay  steamers,  and  at  so-called  '  Indian 
bazaars '  in  Montreal,  Halifax,  and  St.  John.  In  Quebec  such  things 
are  sold  in  the  quaint  old  house  wherein  the  body  of  Montgomery  was 
laid  out." 

All  the  baggage  of  travelers  is  sul)jected  to  an  examination  on 
passing  the  borders ;  but  the  customs  officials,  as  a  rule,  are  courteous, 
and  the  search  is  not  severe  if  the  traveler  shows  a  disposition  to 
facilitate  it. 

On  the  round  trip  from  New  York  or  Boston  and  back,  by  way  of 
Niagara,  Toronto,  Montreal,  Ottawa,  Quebec,  Halifax,  and  St.  John,  the 
tourist  will  find  the  best  of  traveling  facilities  and  accommodations. 
The  various  railroad  and  steamboat  lines  by  which  he  may  make  the 
journey  are  equipped  with  all  modern  conveniences ;  and  the  hotels  in 
tha  cities  above  named,  as  well  as  at  many  other  places  along  the  route, 
are  first  class  in  every  respect.  This  applies  equally  well  to  some 
of  the  side-trips  which  will  be  mentioned  in  the  following  pages ;  but 
on  others  wilder  regions  will  be  traversed,  where  a  similar  degree  of 
comfort  and  luxury  is  not  to  be  expected. 

In  the  summer  season  round-trip  tickets  are  issued  from  New  York 


INTRODUCTION. 


I* 


P 


and  Boston  and  other  centers ;  and  detailed  information  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  railroad  and  steamboat  agencies.  At  a  roujjh  estimate  it 
may  be  said  that  the  round  trip  from  Bo.«'  m  or  New  York  by  way  of 
Niagara,  Toronto,  Montreal,  Quebec,  Sagueiiay,  Halifax,  and  St.  John, 
will  cost  from  f 40  to  f  55  in  fares,  according  to  choice  of  routes. 

The  plan  of  the  book,  its  arrangement  and  classification  of  matter, 
and  the  system  of  treatment,  are  based  on  the  famous  Baedeker  Hand- 
books, which  are  conceded  to  possess  in  a  pre-eminent  degi'ee  the  grand 
desiderata  of  compactness,  portability,  and  facility  of  consultation.  As 
much  aid  as  possible  is  afforded  to  the  eye  by  printing  the  names  of 
places  and  objects  either  in  italics,  or,  where  they  are  of  sufficient 
importance,  in  large-faced  type. 

The  very  rapid  growth  of  Western  Canada  since  the  completion  of 
the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  has  led  to  a  demand  for  information  con- 
cerning that  section  of  the  Dominion.  The  traveler  or  tourist  who 
comes  from  abroad  mjust  now  cross  the  continent.  He  desires  to  see 
the  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior  and  visit  the  famous  fishing-grounds 
of  Lake  Nepigon  and  the  beautiful  Lake  of  the  Woods  region.  The 
new  province  of  Manitoba  and  its  handsome  capital  of  Winnipeg  claim 
attention.  Then,  after  seeing  the  broad  buffalo  plains,  the  great  gla- 
ciers and  snowy  peaks  of  the  Rockies  are  full  of  interest  to  those  who 
are  seeking  for  the  beauties  of  Nature.  The  sportsman  will  desire  to 
pause  at  some  convenient  spot,  such  as  the  Rocky  Mountain  Park,  and 
indulge  his  taste  with  gun  or  rod.  Finally,  there  are  British  Columbia, 
and  Vancouver's  Island  on  the  beautiful  inland  sea  of  Puget  Sound. 
As  a  guide  or  handbook  of  these  and  other  equally  attractive  places,  a 
description  of  Western  Canada  has  been  added  to  this  edition  of 
Appletons'  Canadian  Guide-Book. 


Niagara  Falls  from  Prospect  Park, 


r 


*»- 


APPLETONS' 
CANADIAN   GUIDE-BOOK. 


FBOVINCE  OF  ONTABIO. 
Niagara  Falls. 

Shall  not  Niagara's  migbty  voice 

Innpire  to  action  high  ? 

'Twere  easy  such  a  land  to  love, 

Or  for  her  glory  die. 

E.  G.  Nelson. 

The  tourist  who  proposes  to  visit  the  St.  Lawrence  region  and 
Maritime  Provinces  of  Canada  will  do  well  to  travel  with  the  sun, 
beginning  with  Ontario  and  ending  with  New  Brunswick  or  Nova  Scotia. 
Traveling  in  this  direction,  the  descent  of  the  St.  Lawrence  by  boot  is 
open  to  him,  with  its  charm  of  historic  landscapes,  and  its  exciting 
experiences  at  the  rapids  of  Long  Sault  and  Lachine. 

A  little  north  of  west  from  New  York  or  Boston,  on  the  isthmus 
between  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie  lies  Niagara,  whither  all  roads  lead. 
Here  we  reach  the  frontier  of  the  Maple-Leaf  Land,  and  here  our  trip 
may  be  properly  said  to  begin. 

Countless  pens  have  striven  to  depict  the  sublimities  of  Niagara, 
and  have  only  succeeded  in  proving  the  hopelessness  of  the  effort.  I 
will  not  add  another  to  the  list  of  failures.  Not  only  are  words  inade- 
quate to  convey  any  just  impression  of  the  stupendous  cataract,  but  the 
eye  itself,  on  first  beholding  it,  quite  fails  to  grasp  its  magnificence. 
No  one  can  be  said  to  have  seen  the  Falls  who  has  taken  but  one  look 
and  then  passed  on.  To  rightly  apprehend  them  one  should  halt  for 
some  days  at  Niagara  till  his  eye  adjusts  itself  to  the  new  proportions, 
and,  like  the  boy  that  mocked  the  owls  on  Windermere,  he  feels  that 

"  the  visible  scene 
Has  entered  unawares  into  his  mind, 
With  all  its  solemn  imagery." 

Not  many  years  ago  the  Falls  were  so  hedged  about  with  extortion- 
ate charges  that  the  tourist,  unless  a  millionaire,  was  constrained  to 


Il 


6 


NIAGARA   FATX9. 


grasp  his  purse-atrings  and  flee  from  the  spot  with  the  smallest  possi- 
ble delaj'.  Now,  however,  all  that  is  changed,  and  on  the  Canadian 
and  American  side  alike  the  view  of  the  falls  is  free.  One  pays  only 
for  such  unessential  extras  as  crossing  the  ferry  or  visiting  The  Cave 
of  the  Winds  behind  the  cataract.  The  whole  may  be  done  on  foot  or 
with  the  aid  of  the  street-cars  which  run  between  the  Wlnrlpool  and  the 
Falls,  and  Niagara  need  be  costly  to  none  but  those  who  desire  to  make 
it  so.  By  means  of  the  Niagara  Falls  Park  and  River  Railway  (electric), 
running  for  a  distance  of  18|  miles  from  Queenston  to  Chippewa  on 
the  Canadian  side,  and  by  the  Niagara  Falls  and  Lewiston  Railway 
(electric)  on  the  American  side,  running  from  Lewiston  to  Niagara  Falls, 
a  distance  of  7  miles,  a  very  satisfactory  view  of  the  Falls  and  the  river 
may  be  obtained.  Cab  charges  are  regulated  by  law,  and  hotel  rates  * 
are  much  as  elsewhere,  varying  from  $1  to  $4  a  day. 

The  Falls  arc  situated  on  the  Niagara  River,  about  22  miles  from 
Lake  Erie  and  14  miles  from  Ontario.  This  river  is  the  channel  by 
which  all  the  waters  of  the  four  great  upper  lakes  flow  toward  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  a  total  descent  of  333  ft.,  leaving  Lake 
Ontario  still  231  ft.  above  the  sea.  From  the  N.  E.  extremity  of  Lake 
Erie  the  Niagara  flows  in  a  N.  direction  with  a  swift  current  for  the 
first  2  miles,  and  then  more  gently  with  a  widening  current,  which 
divides  as  a  portion  passes  on  each  side  of  Grand  Island.  As  these 
unite  below  the  island,  the  stream  spreads  out  to  2  or  3  miles  in  width, 
and  appears  like  a  quiet  lake  studded  with  small,  low  islands.  About 
16  miles  from  Lake  Erie  the  current  becomes  narrow  and  begins  to  de- 
scend with  great  velocity.  This  is  the  beginning  of  The  Rapids, 
which  continue  for  about  a  mile,  the  waters  accomplishing  in  this  dis- 
tance a  fall  of  52  ft.  The  Rapids  terminate  below  in  a  great  cataract, 
the  descent  of  which  is  164  ft.  on  the  American  side  and  158  ft.  on  the 
Canadian.  At  this  point  the  river,  making  a  curve  from  W.  to  N., 
spreads  out  to  an  extreme  width  of  4,750  ft.,  embracing  Goat  and  the 
Three  Sister  Islands.  Goat  Island,  which  extends  down  to  the  brink 
of  the  cataract,  occupies  about  one  fourth  of  this  space,  leaving  the 
river  on  the  American  side  about  1,100  ft.  wide,  and  on  the  Canadian 

*  The  best  hotels  are— on  the  American  side,  the  Cataract  House, 
Liternational  Hotel ,  KaltenhaclCs,  Prospect  House,  Spencer'  House,  and 
Tower  House;  on  the  Canadian  side,  the  Clifton  House.  The  legal 
tariff  for  carriages  is  $2  per  hour,  but  it  is  usually  easy  to  arrange  special 
terms.    All  tolls  are  paid  by  the  traveler. 


NIAGARA   FALLS.  T 

side  about  double  this  width.  The  line  along  the  verge  of  the  Canadian 
Fall  is  much  longer  than  the  breadth  of  this  portion  of  the  river,  by 
reason  of  its  horseshoe  form,  the  curve  extending  up  the  central  part 
of  the  current.  The  waters  sweeping  down  the  Rapids  form  a  grand 
curve  as  they  fall  clear  of  the  rocky  wall  into  the  deep  pool  at  the  base. 


Niagara  Falls  and  Vicinity. 


In  the  profound  chasm  below  the  fall,  the  current,  contracted  in  width 
to  less  than  1,000  ft.,  is  tossed  tumultuously  about,  and  forms  great 
whirlpools  and  eddies  as  it  is  borne  along  its  rapidly  descending  bed. 
Dangerous  as  it  appears,  the  river  is  here  crossed  by  small  row-boats, 


8 


NIAGARA   FALLS. 


which  are  reached  from  the  banks  above  by  an  inclined  railroad,  and 
the  Maid  of  the  Mist,  a  small  steamer,  makes  frequent  trips  to  the  edge 
of  the  Falls.  Fur  7  miles  below  the  Falls  the  narrow  gorge  continues, 
varyin}?  in  width  from  200  to  400  yards.  The  river  then  emerges  at 
Lewiston  into  a  lower  district,  having  descended  104  ft.  from  the  foot 
of  the  cataract. 

Here  at  Lewiston,  where  ends  the  gorge,  was  once  the  site  of  the 
cataract.  Instead  of  plunging  into  a  deep  chasm  and  hiding  its  grand- 
eur from  all  but  those  who  would  search  it  out,  the  gigantic  torrent 
rolled,  in  full  view  of  the  world,  over  the  lofty  line  of  Queens- 
ton  Heights,  the  escarpment  of  the  high  plateau  of  the  upper  lakes. 
The  recession  of  the  Falls  to  their  present  point  is  thus  discussed 
by  the  Duke  of  Argyll : 


FORMER  POSITION  OF  THE  FALLS. 

"  A  very  curioiis  question,  and  one  of  great  scientific  interest,  arises 
out  of  the  great  difference  between  the  course  of  the  Niagara  River 
above  and  below  the  Falls.  It  has,  in  my  opinion,  been  much  too 
readily  assumed  by  geologists  that  rivers  have  excavated  the  valleys  in 
which  they  run.  The  cutting  power  of  water  is  very  great,  but  it  varies 
in  proportion  to  the  liability  of  floods,  and  the  wearing  power  of  stones 
that  may  be  carried  along ;  much  also  depends  on  the  position  of  the 
rocks  over  which  a  river  runs.  If  the  stratification  present  edges 
which  are  easily  attacked  or  undermined,  even  a  gentle  stream  may  cut 
rapidly  for  itself  a  deeper  bed.  On  the  other  hand,  when  the  rocks  do 
not  expose  any  surfaces  which  are  easily  assailable,  a  very  large  body 
of  water  may  run  over  them  for  ages  without  being  able  to  scoop  out 
more  than  a  few  feet  or  even  a  few  inches.  Accordingly,  such  is  actu- 
ally the  case  with  the  Niagara  River  in  the  upper  part  of  its  course  from 
Lake  Erie  to  the  Falls.  In  all  the  ages  during  which  it  has  run  into 
that  course  for  15  miles  it  has  not  been  able  to  remove  more  than  a 
few  feet  of  soil  or  rock.  The  country  is  level  and  the  banks  are  very 
low,  so  low  that  in  looking  up  the  bed  of  the  stream  the  more  distant 
trees  on  either  bank  seem  to  rise  out  of  the  water.  But  suddenly  in 
the  middle  of  the  comparatively  level  country  the  river  enconnters  a 
precipice,  and  thenceforward  for  7  miles  runs  through  a  profound  cleft 
or  ravine  the  bottom  of  which  is  not  less  than  300  ft.  below  the  general 
level  of  the  country.  How  came  that  precipice  to  be  there?  This 
would  be  no  puzzle  at  all  if  the  precipice  were  joined  with  a  sudden 
change  in  the  general  level  of  the  country  on  either  side  of  the  river — 
and  there  is  such  a  change — but  it  is  not  at  the  Falls.  It  is  7  miles 
farther  on.  At  the  Falls  there  is  no  depression  in  the  general  level 
of  the  banks.  Indeed,  on  the  Canadian  shore,  the  land  rises  very  con- 
siderably just  aVjove  the  Falls.  On  the  American  shore  it  continues  at 
the  same  elevation.     The  whole  country  here,  however,  is  a  table-land, 


I 

I 
I* 


NTA.OARA  FALLS. 


and  that  table-land  has  a  termination — an  edge— over  which  the  river 
must  fall  before  it  can  reacli  Lake  Ontario.  Hut  that  edire  does  not  run 
acroH8  the  country  at  Niagara  F.iMh,  but  along  a  line  much  nearer  to 
Lake  Ontario,  where  it  :i  a  conHpiuuoufi  feature  in  the  landscape,  and 
is  called  Queenston  Heights.  The  natural  place,  therefore,  ho  to  Hpeak, 
for  the  Falls  would  have  been  where  the  river  came  to  that  edge,  and 
from  that  point  the  river  has  all  the  appearance  of  having  cut  its  way 
backward  in  the  course  of  time.  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  the  eminent  geolo- 
gist, came  to  the  conclusion,  from  comparison  of  tlie  rate  at  which  the 
cutting  back  had  been  observable  within  the  memory  of  man,  that  this 
cutting  back  is  about  one  foot  in  each  year.  At  this  rate  the  river 
would  have  taken  35,<XK)  years  to  effect  its  retreat  from  Queenston  to 
the  present  position  of  the  Falls." 

The  following  brief  account,  condensed  from  Appletons'  General 
Guide,  of  the  various  points  of  interest  at  the  Falls,  will  indicate  the 
wealth  of  material  on  which  local  guide-books  exercise  their  powers  of 
description  and  imagination  : 

Goat  Island  is  the  point  usually  visited  first.  It  is  reached  by  a 
bridge  860  ft.  long,  the  approach  to  which  is  just  in  rear  of  «he  Cata- 
ract House.  The  bridge  itself  is  an  object  of  interest,  from  its  ap- 
parently dangerous  position.  It  is,  however,  perfectly  safe,  and  is 
crossed  constantly  by  heavily  laden  carriages.  The  view  of  the  rapids 
from  the  bridge  is  one  of  the  most  impressive  features  of  the  Niagara 
scenery.  Below  the  bridge,  a  short  distance  from  the  verge  of  the 
American  Falls,  is  Chapin's  Island,  so  named  in  memory  of  a  work, 
man  who  fell  into  the  stream  while  at  work  on  the  bridge.  He  lodged 
on  this  islet  and  was  rescued  by  a  Mr.  Robinson,  who  gallantly  went  to 
his  rescue  in  a  skiff.  About  midway  of  the  stream  the  road  crosses 
Bath  Island.  A  short  walk  brings  us  to  the  foot-bridge  leading  to 
Luna  Island,  a  huge  rock-mass  of  some  three  quarters  of  an  acre,  lying 
between  the  Center  Falls  and  the  American  Falls.  The  exquisite  lunar 
rainbows  seen  at  this  point,  when  the  moon  is  full,  have  given  it  the 
name  it  bears.  Just  beyond  Luna  Island  a  spiral  stairway  (called 
"  Biddle's  Stairs,"  after  Nicholas  Biddle,  of  United  States  Bank  fame, 
by  whose  order  they  were  built)  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  cliff.  From 
the  foot  of  the  stairs,  which  are  secured  to  the  rocks  by  strong  iron 
fastenings,  there  are  two  diverging  paths.  That  to  the  right  leads  to 
the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  a  spacious  recess  back  of  the  Center  Falls. 
Guides  and  water-proof  suits  for  visiting  the  cave  may  be  obtained  at 
the  stairs  (fee,  $1.00),  and  the  excursion  is  well  worth  making.  You 
can  pass  safely  into  the  recess  behind  the  water  to  a  platform  beyond. 


10 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Magical  rainbow  pictures  are  found  at  this  spot ;  sometimes  bowG  of 
entire  circles  and  two  or  three  at  once  are  seen.  A  plank-walk  has 
been  carried  out  to  a  cluster  of  rocks  near  the  foot  of  the  fall,  and 
from  it  one  of  the  best  views  of  the  American  Falls  may  be  obtained. 
The  up-river  way,  along  the  base  of  the  cliff  toward  the  Horseshoe 
Falls,  is  difheult  and  much  obstructed  by  fallen  rocks.  It  was  from  a 
point  near  Biddle's  Stairs  that  the  renowned  jumper,  Sam  Patch,  made 
two  successful  leaps  into  the  water  below,  in  1829,  saying  to  the 
throng  of  spectators,  as  he  went  off,  that  "  one  thing  might  be  done  as 
well  as  another."  Reascending  the  stairs,  a  few  minutes'  walk  along 
the  summit  of  the  cliff  brings  us  to  a  bridge  leading  to  the  islet  on 
which  stood  the  famous  Terrapin  Tower,  which  having  become  danger- 
ous was  blown  up  with  gunpowder  in  181S.  The  view  of  the  Horse- 
shoe Falls  from  this  point  is  surpassingly  grand.  It  was  estimated  by 
Lyell  that  1,500,000,000  cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over  the  ledges  every 
hour.  One  of  the  condemned  lake-ships  (the  Detroit)  was  sent  over 
this  fall  in  1829;  and,  though  she  drew  18  ft.  of  water,  she  did  not 
touch  the  rocks  in  passing  over  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  showing 
that  the  water  is  at  least  20  ft.  deep  above  the  ledge. 

At  the  other  end  of  Goat  Island  (reached  by  a  road  from  the  Horse- 
shoe Falls),  a  series  of  graceful  bridges  leads  to  the  Three  Sisters,  as 
three  small  islets  lying  in  the  Rapids  are  called.  On  Goat  Island,  near 
the  Three  Sisters,  is  the  Hermit's  Bathing-place,  so  called  after  Francis 
Abbott,  "  The  Hermit  of  Niagara,"  who  used  to  bathe  here,  and  who 
finally  drowned  while  doing  so.  At  the  foot  of  Grand  Island,  near  the 
Canada  shore,  is  Navy  Island,  which  was  the  scene  of  some  interesting 
incidents  in  the  Canadian  Rebellion  of  1837-'38,  known  as  the  Macken- 
zie War.  It  was  near  Schlosscr  Landing,  about  2  miles  above  the  Falls, 
on  the  American  side,  that  during  the  war  the  American  steamer  Caro- 
line, which  had  been  perverted  to  the  use  of  the  insurgents,  was  set 
on  fire  and  sent  over  the  Falls  by  the  order  of  Sir  Allan  McNab,  a 
Canadian  officer. 

The  State  of  New  York  purchased,  in  1885,  the  property  bordering 
the  Falls,  and  laid  out  Niagara  Park,  to  be  controlled  by  a  State  Com- 
mission, empowered  to  remove  all  obstructions  to  the  view,  and  to  im- 
prove the  grounds.  No  charge  is  made  for  admission  to  Niagara  Park. 
A  "  vertical  railway,"  running  on  a  steep  incline,  leads  from  the  park 
to  the  base  of  the  cliff ;  and  from  its  foot  the  river  may  be  crossed  in 
tlie  steamboat  the  Maid  of  the  Mist.     The  passage  across  the  river  is 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


u 


perfectly  safe,  and  is  worth  making  for  the  very  fine  view  of  the  Falls 
obtained  in  raid-stream.  A  winding  road  along  the  cliff-sidb  leads  from 
the  landing  on  the  Canadian  side  to  the  top  of  the  bluff,  near  the  Clif- 
ton House.  By  climbing  over  the  rocks  at  the  base  of  the  cliff  on  the 
American  side  (turn  to  the  left  after  descending  the  railway),  the  tour- 
ist may  penetrate  to  a  point  within  the  spray  of  the  American  Fall,  and 
get  what  is  perhaps,  on  the  whole,  the  finest  view  of  it  to  be  had. 

The  Canadian  side  of  the  river  may  be  reached  by  the  steamer 
llaid  of  the  Mist,  or  by  the  new  bridge,  which  crosses  the  river  at 
the  place  formerly  spanned  by  the  structure  originally  known  as  the 
"  New  Suspension  Bridge."  This  bridge,  like  its  elder  prototype  (the 
Grand  Trunk  Suspension  Bridge),  is  now  giving  place  to  a  new  one  in 
a  similar  style  of  construction,  a  steel  arch,  and  the  views  of  the 
Falls  afforded  in  crossing  it  are  among  the  best.  A  road  to  the 
left  from  the  bridge  terminus  leads  along  the  cliff,  affording  good 
views  of  the  American  and  Center  Falls.  A  short  distance  above  the 
terrace  near  the  Falls  is  the  spot  still  called  Table  Rock,  though  the 
immense  overhanging  platform  originally  known  by  that  name  has  long 
since  fallen  over  the  precipice.  From  this  point  the  best  front  view  of 
the  Falls  is  obtained,  and  that  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall  is  incomparably 
grand.  The  concussion  of  the  falling  waters  with  those  in  the  depths 
below  produces  a  spray  that  veils  the  cataract  two  thirds  up  its  height. 
Above  this  impenetrable  foam  to  the  height  of  50  ft.  above  the  Fall,  a 
cloud  of  lighter  spray  rises,  which,  when  the  sun  shines  upon  it  in  the 
proper  direction,  displays  magnificent  solar  rainbows.  The  appro- 
priateness of  the  name  Niagara  ("Thunder  of  Waters")  is  very  evi- 
dent here.  At  Table  Rock  may  be  procured  guides  and  water-proof  suits 
for  the  passage  under  the  Horseshoe  Falls  (fee,  50c.).  This 
passage  (which  no  nervous  person  should  attempt)  is  described  as  fol- 
lows by  a  writer  in  Picturesque  America :  "  The  wooden  stairways  are 
narrow  and  steep,  but  perfectly  safe ;  and  a  couple  of  minutes  brings 
us  to  the  bottom.  Here  we  are  in  spray-land  indeed ;  for  we  have 
hardly  begun  to  traverse  the  pathway  of  broken  bits  of  shale  when, 
with  a  mischievous  sweep,  the  wind  sends  a  baby  cataract  in  our  direc- 
tion, and  fairly  inundates  us.  The  mysterious  gloom,  with  the  thun- 
dering noises  of  the  falling  waters,  impresses  every  one ;  but,  as  the 
pathway  is  broad,  and  the  walking  easy,  new-comers  are  apt  to  think 
there  is  nothing  in  it.  The  tall,  stalwart  negro,  who  acts  as  guide, 
listens  with  amusement  to  such  comments,  and  confidently  awaits  a 


12 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


change  in  the  tone  of  the  scoffers.  More  and  more  arched  do  the 
rocks  become  as  we  proceed.  The  top  part  is  of  hard  limestone,  and 
the  lower  of  shale,  which  has  been  so  battered  away  by  the  fury  of  the 
waters  that  there  is  an  arched  passage  behind  the  entire  Horseshoe 
Fall,  which  could  easily  be  traversed  if  the  currents  of  air  would  let 
us  pass.  But,  as  we  proceed,  we  begin  to  notice  that  it  blows  a  trifle, 
and  from  every  one  of  the  32  points  of  the  compass.  At  first,  how- 
ever, we  get  them  separately.  A  gust  at  a  time  inundates  us  with 
spray ;  but  the  farther  we  march  the  more  unruly  is  the  Prince  of  Air. 
First,  like  single  spies,  come  his  winds ;  but  soon  they  advance  like 
skirmishers ;  and,  at  last,  where  a  thin  column  of  water  falls  across 
the  path,  they  oppose  a  solid  phalanx  to  our  efforts.  It  is  a  point  of 
honor  to  see  who  can  go  farthest  through  these  corridors  of  yEolus.  It 
is  on  record  that  a  man,  with  an  herculean  effort,  once  burst  through 
the  column  of  water,  but  was  immediately  thrown  to  the  ground,  and 
only  rejoined  his  comrades  by  crawling  face  downward,  and  digging 
his  hands  into  the  loose  shale  of  the  pathway.  Prof.  Tyndall  has 
gone  as  far  as  mortal  man,  and  he  describes  the  buffeting  of  the  air  as 
indescribable,  the  effect  being  like  actual  blows  with  the  fist." 

Termination  Rock  is  a  short  distance  beyond  Table  Rock,  at  the  verge 
of  the  fall.    The  spray  here  is  blinding,  and  the  roar  of  waters  deafening. 

Below  the  Falls  are  several  points  of  interest,  which  are  best  visited 
on  the  American  side.  The  first  of  these  is  the  steel  arch  bridge  fin- 
ished in  1897.  The  span  between  the  piers  of  this  bridge  is  550  ft., 
and  a  trussed  span  at  each  end  11 5  ft.  long  connects  the  arch  with  the 
bluff.  The  total  length  of  the  bridge  with  the  approaches  is  1,100  ft. 
It  has  two  decks  or  floors,  the  upper  one  30  ft.  wide,  occupied  by  the 
double  track  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  the  lower  comprising  a  broad 
carriageway  in  the  center,  with  trolley  tracks  each  side  and  footwalks 
outside  of  all,  making  a  total  width  of  57  ft.  The  fee  for  crossing  the 
bridge  is  25c.  for  pedestrians,  which  confers  the  right  to  return  free  on 
the  same  day.  From  one  side  of  this  bridge  a  fine  distant  view  of  the 
Falls  is  had,  and  from  the  other  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  seething,  tumul- 
tuous Whirlpool  Rapids.  Three  hundred  feet  above  may  be  seen  the 
new  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  Cantilever  Bridge.  By  descending  the  ele- 
vator, which  leads  from  the  top  to  the  base  of  the  cliff  near  the  site  of 
the  old  Monteagle  House,  a  nearer  view  is  obtained  of  these  wonderful 
rapids,  in  which  the  waters  rush  along  with  such  velocity  that  the  mid- 
dle of  the  current  is  30  ft.  higher  than  the  sides.     Three  miles  below 


m. 


v 


n 

pj 


Lima  Foils  and  Rock  of  Ages. 


NIAGARA   TO   TORONTO. 


la 


the  Falls  is  the  Whirlpool,  occasioned  by  a  sharp  bend  in  the  river, 
which  is  here  contracted  to  a  width  of  220  ft. 


From  Niagara  to  Toronto. 

From  Niagara  Falls  one  has  a  choice  of  routes  to  Toronto.  One 
may  go  by  the  Grand  Trunk  or  Canadian  Pacific  around  the  head  of 
the  lake,  or  by  rail  to  the  river  bank  below  the  Rapids,  and  thence  by 
steamer  straight  across  Lake  Ontario  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River. 
The  land  route  (fare,  single,  $2.65 ;  return,  $4.45),  which  is  the  longer, 
affords  an  opportunity  of  seeing  that  magnificent  engineering  work  the 
Welland  Canal,  and  of  visiting  the  cities  of  St.  Catharines  and  Hamil- 
ton. If  one  jroes  by  the  river  route  (fare,  single,  $1.50 ;  return,  $2.30), 
one  sees  the  beauties  of  the  Niagara  district,  the  gardens  of  Canada, 
the  storied  Queenston  Heights,  and  the  delightful  summer  resort  of 
Niagara-on-the-Lake,  besides  enjoying  a  cool  sail  of  40  miles  across  the 
waters  of  Lake  Ontario. 

THE  WATER  ROUTE. 

By  this  river  route  the  tourist  finds  yet  further  latitude  allowed  him. 
The  journey  from  the  Falls  may  be  made  on  the  Canadian  side  either 
by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Port  Dalhousie  and  thence  across  Lake 
Ontario,  or  by  the  Michigan  Central  to  Niagara-on-the-Lako  or  along  the 
American  shore  by  the  New  York  Central  to  the  wharf  at  Lcwiston, 
1  miles  from  the  mouth,  where  one  meets  the  fine  Clyde-built  steamers 
of  the  "  Niagara  River  Line,"  making  connections  across  the  lake  four 
times  each  day.  A  very  popular  route  is  by  steamer  from  Toronto  to 
Queenston  on  the  Niagara  River,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
Niagara  Falls  Park  and  River  Electric  Railway.  This  road  follows  the 
line  of  the  river  to  the  cataract  and  the  village  of  Chippewa,  three  miles 
beyond.  This  line  is  so  laid  out  as  to  take  in  all  the  best  views  of  this 
interesting  trip — the  changing  scenery  along  the  river,  the  varying 
phases  of  the  river  itself,  the  whirlpool  foaming  in  anger  and  succeeded 
by  the  stretch  of  quiet  water  beyond,  the  view  of  Queenston  Heights, 
surmounted  by  Brock's  historical  monument,  the  steel  arch  bridge,  the 
approach  to  the  Falls,  showing  the  American  Falls,  Goat  Island,  and 
the  Horseshoe  Falls,  and  then  the  .near  view  of  the  roaring  cataract  it- 
self. The  cars  on  this  read  are  so  constructed  that  every  passenger  has 
a  clear  and  unobstructed  view  of  the  scenery  on  either  side. 


u 


NIAGARA   TO   TORONTO. 


The  New  York  Central  runs  through  The  Gorge  itself,  along  a 
ledge  which  has  been  carved  out  of  the  face  of  the  cliff,  beneath  which 
is  the  Great  Gorge  Route  of  the  Niagara  Falls  and  Lewiston  R.  R., 
which  runs  close  to  the  water's  edge.  Above  towers  the  beetling  front 
of  rock,  and  far  below  thunders  the  tremendous  torrent.  In  the  gorge 
of  Niagara  the  water  does  not  flow,  or  rush,  or  dart,  but  it  bounds  and 
bursts  as  if  belched  forth  from  some  hidden  volcano.  Presently  the 
mad  flood  is  caiight  and  enchained  for  a  time  in  the  sullen  vortex  of  the 
Whirlpool.  Of  this  umnythical  Maelstrom  one  catches  a  thrilling  glimpse 
from  the  car  window.  Then  the  gorge  narrows  again ;  and  plunging 
through  short  tunnels,  swerving  dizzily  on  its  airy  shelf,  round  jutting 
peaks,  the  road  threads  the  windings  of  the  abyss,  gradually  descend- 
ing, till  it  comes  out  upon  the  lower  level  at  Lewiston.  Here  is  the 
head  of  navigation,  and  at  the  dock,  to  the  side  of  which  the  railway 
has  now  been  extended,  the  tourist  steps  on  board  the  steamers.  The 
river  rests  here  in  a  great,  slow-reeling  eddy.  In  this  eddy  the  steamer 
turns,  and  is  grateful  for  the  service  of  the  revolving  current. 

Opposite  Lewiston  rise  C^ueenston  Heights,  the  most  famous 
battle-field  of  the  War  of  1812.  Here,  for  an  autumn  day,  three  quar- 
ters of  a  century  ago,  raged  a  bitter  struggle  between  the  American  and 
Canadian  forces,  resulting  at  length  in  victory  for  the  Canadians,  who 
paid  too  dear  for  their  triumph,  however,  with  the  death  of  their  heroic 
leader,  General  Sir  Isaac  Brock.  3Iay  it  prove  an  augury  of  perpetual 
peace  and  good-will  along  these  frontiers  that  when,  two  days  after  the 
battle.  General  Brock  was  being  buried  in  one  of  the  bastions  of  Fort 
George,  minute-guns  were  fired  from  the  American  Fort  Niagara  across 
the  river,  as  a  tribute  of  respect  to  their  illustrious  adversary ! 

On  the  summit  of  the  Heights  stands  the  monument  which  has 
been  erected  in  memory  of  the  favorite  hero  of  Canadians.  This  is 
the  second  monument  erected  on  the  spot,  the  earlier  and  smaller  one, 
built  by  a  grant  from  the  Provincial  Parliament  in  1824,  having  been 
blown  up  in  1840  by  a  scoundrel  named  Lett.  The  new  monument 
was  erected  by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the  militia  and  Indian 
warriors  of  Canada.  It  is  a  massive  stone  structure  190  ft.  in  height, 
19  ft.  higher  than  Nelson's  Column  in  Trafalgar  Square.  At  the  top, 
beneath  a  colossal  statue  of  Brock,  is  a  gallery  reachr;!  by  235  steps. 
Standing  on  this  gallery  one  sees  unroll  before  him  a  matchless  pano- 
rama, of  battle-field  and  vineyard,  of  cataract  and  quiet  stream,  of 
dark  wood  and  steepled  villages  and  breadths  of  peach-orchard,  and 


'*  f 


NIAGARA   TO  TORONTO. 


15 


fortresses  no  longer  hostile ;  and  far  across  the  blue  waters  of  Ontario 
the  smoke  of  the  great  city  toward  which  our  feet  are  set. 

From  Lewiston  to  Niagara-on-the-Lake  the  river  flows  for  7  miles 
rapidly  between  high,  wooded  banks,  studded  with  gardens  and  comforta- 
ble homes.  If  the  tourist  has  started  on  the  Canadian  side,  the  Michigan 
Central  R.  R.  takes  him  direct  to  Niagara-on-the-Lake.  This  route,  as  it 
winds  down  the  side  of  the  Niagara  escarpment,  gives  a  wide  range  over 
the  fertile  Niagara  plains  with  all  their  glory  of  peach  gardens  and  vine- 
yards, and  also  a  distant  view  of  Queenston  Heights  and  Brock's  monu- 
ment. But  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  it  is  as  much  less  picturesque 
as  it  is  more  convenient  than  that  by  crossing  to  the  American  side. 

Niagara-on«the-Lake,  where  of  old  the  fortunes  of  peoples  were 
wont  to  be  decided  by  the  sword,  where  Indians,  French,  and  British, 
Americans  and  Canadians  have  contended  for  the  supremacy  of  the  Lake 
regions,  where  the  first  Parliament  of  the  old  province  of  Upper  Canada 
was  held  in  1792  in  ancestral  fashion  in  the  shade  of  a  spreading  oak, 
is  now  but  a  merry  watering-place.  In  the  neighborhood  is  the  battle- 
field of  Lnndy's  Lane,  the  scene  of  a  hard-fought  struggle  between 
Canadian  and  American  forces.  The  chief  episodes  that  now  stir  the 
surface  of  Niagara's  summer  calm  are  the  Saturday  evening  hops  at 
the  Queen's  Royal  Hotel,  which  are  attended  by  the  American  officers 
from  Fort  Niagara  opposite,  and  by  gay  yachting  parties  from  Toronto. 
The  country  round  about  is  a  garden ;  there  is  capital  bass-fishing  to 
be  had,  and  the  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing  are  not  to  be  excelled. 
In  the  days  of  its  political  and  military  importance  the  town  bore  the 
more  business-like  name  of  Newark.  Chief  hotels :  Hotel  Chautauqua, 
Queens  Royal  Hotel,  and  The  Oban. 

The  run  across  from  Niagara  to  Toronto  occupies  about  two  hours, 
and  in  the  tourist  season  the  lake  is  usually  unruffled.  As  Lake  Ontario, 
however,  is  180  miles  long  and  about  70  in  extreme  breadth,  it  pos- 
sesses every  facility  for  an  occasional  storm  of  genuine  Atlantic  propor- 
tions. The  Chippewa,  Cibola,  and  Chicora,  of  the  "  Niagara  River  Line," 
however,  are  Clyde-built  ocean-going  craft  of  steel,  and  maintain  regu- 
lar service  in  all  weathers,  leaving  Lewiston  every  week-day  at  8  a.  m., 
10.30  A.  M.,  12  noon,  and  6.40  p.  M.,  and  Niagara-on-the-Lake  half  an 
hour  later.  There  are  officers  of  the  American  and  Canadian  customs 
on  the  boat  to  examine  baggage  during  the  trip  across ;  and  the  Niag- 
ara  River  Navigation  Company  issues  through  tickets  and  checks 
through  baggage  in  connection  with  the  main  railroad  and  steamboat 


u 


\  I 

^  i 


IT 

i 


16 


NIAGARA   TO  TORONTO. 


i    t 


lines  of  Canada  and  America.    Returning  steamers  leave  Toronto  7 
A.  M.,  11a.  m.,  2  p.  M.,  and  4.46  p.  u. 

THE  JOURNEY  BY  RAIL. 

If  one  chooses  to  go  by  land  around  the  head  of  the  lake  his  way  lies 
through  a  fine  country.  The  Grand  Trunk  and  Canadian  Pacific  Rys. 
run  from  the  Falls  to  Hamilton,  whence  the  traveler  is  carried  eastward 
to  Toronto  over  the  same  tracks.  A  few  miles  west  of  Niagara  by  the 
former  route  is  Merritton,  where  the  railway  plunges  into  a  tunnel  which 
leads  it  under  the  Welland  Canal.  Merritton  is  otherwise  known  as 
Thorold  Station,  as  it  is  there  that  passengers  leave  the  train  for  the 
little  town  of  Thorold  on  the  canal.  In  this  neighborhood  is  the  bat- 
tle-field of  Beaver  Dams,  which  Canadians  regard  with  pardonable 
pride.  During  the  War  of  1812,  when  the  Americans  were  in  posses- 
sion of  Fort  George  and  Niagara  and  the  British  troops  had  fallen  back 
on  Burlington  (now  Hamilton),  the  British  general  advised  the  Canadian 
volunteers  to  disband  and  return  to  their  homes,  as  he  was  contemplating 
the  possibility  of  abandoning  all  that  section  of  the  province  to  the  foe 
and  retiring  to  Kingston.  In  this  crisis,  being  thrown  entirely  upon 
their  own  resources,  the  Canadians  proved  themselves  equal  to  the 
emergency.  What  followed  has  been  thus  described  by  Miss  Louisa 
Murray :  "  Merritt's  militia  regiment  of  light  horse,  with  some  other 
militiamen  and  volunteers,  established  themselves  at  a  building  known 
as  *  De  Cew's  stone  house,'  converting  it  into  a  little  fortress,  whence 
they  harassed  the  Americans,  driving  off  their  foraging  parties, 
and  intercepting  their  supplies,  with  such  success  and  impunity  as 
only  an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  country  could  have  given  them. 
Colonel  Boerstler  was  sent  from  Niagara  with  two  field-pieces  and  600 
men  to  break  up  this  little  stronghold,  and  one  or  two  other  outposts 
of  the  British,  who,  since  the  decisive  battle  of  Stony  Creek,  were 
moving  back  toward  Fort  George,  and  he  might  have  succeeded  but 
for  the  patriotic  spirit  and  bravery  of  a  woman.  Laura  Secord,  the 
young  wife  of  James  Secord,  a  militiaman  lying  wounded  at  Queens- 
ton,  saw  the  American  troops  moving  from  Niagara,  and,  learning 
their  destination,  set  out  at  night,  and  walked  twenty  miles  through 
the  woods  to  warn  the  little  band  at  the  stone  house  of  Boerstler's  ap- 
proach. At  any  time  it  would  have  been  a  difficult  journey,  but  in  war 
time,  with  the  risk  of  meeting  some  savage  Indian  or  other  lawless 
marauder  |n  the  lonely  woods,  only  a  woman  of  singular  energy  and 


NIAGARA   TO   TORONTO. 


17 


courage  would  have  undertaken  it.  Mrs.  Secord,  however,  >mpli8hed 
it  in  safety,  and  when  Colonel  Boerstler  arrived  at  Beaver  Dams  at  6 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  he  found  his  march  impeded  by  a  small  number 
of  militiamen,  hastily  collected,  and  a  party  of  Indians  led  by  their  chief, 
young  Brant.  This  number,  altogether  about  200,  seemed  trebled  when 
seen  through  the  thick  foliage  of  the  trees,  from  among  which  they 
poured  volley  after  volley  from  their  muskets  on  the  surprised  and  bewil- 
dered Americans,  every  volley  accompanied  by  the  fierce  yells  of  the  In- 
dians. While  Boerstler  was  still  uncertain  whether  to  advance  or  re- 
treat. Ensign  Fitzgibbon,  with  40  soldiers,  the  only  British  troops  in  the 
neighborhood,  arrived  at  the  spot  and  took  in  the  situation  at  once. 
With  admirable  courage  and  coolness,  he  tied  a  white  handkerchief  on  a 
musket,  and,  holding  it  up,  advanced  alone,  calling  on  the  enemy  to  lay 
down  their  arms  and  surrender ;  upon  wliicb  Colonel  Boerstler,  believing 
that  the  whole  British  army  was  in  front,  surrendered  his  force  of  600  in- 
fantry, 60  cavalry,  2  field  guns,  and  a  stand  of  colors,  to  the  young  ensign 
and  his  240  men."  The  victory  is  commemorated  by  a  small  granite  mon- 
ument, with  the  inscription ''  Beaver  Dams,  June  24, 1813."  The  heroic 
achievement  of  Laura  Secord  has  been  made  the  subject  of  a  historical 
drama  by  Mrs.  S.  A.  Curyon,  and  of  a  stirring  ballad  by  Charles  Mair. 

The  city  of  St.  Catharines  is  on  the  Welland  Canal,  about  3  miles 
from  its  Lake  Ontario  outlet.  The  trade  center  of  this  inexhaustibly 
fertile  Niagara  region,  and  supplied  with  unlimited  water-power  by 
means  of  the  canal,  St.  Catharines  has  become  an  important  commer- 
cial city.  It  is  purely  a  product  of  the  canal,  and  owes  its  existence 
as  a  city  to  the  indomitable  energy  of  William  Hamilton  Merritt,  who 
conceived  the  idea  of  the  great  engineering  work  and  finally  pushed  it 
to  completion.  St.  Catharines  has  important  ship-yards,  mills,  and 
machine-works  ;  handsome  public  buildings,  first-class  hotels,  and  one 
of  the  best  collegiate  institutes  in  the  province.  It  is  also  a  very 
popular  health  resort,  much  visited  by  Southerners.  The  waters  of  its 
mineral  springs  rank  high  among  the  medicinal  waters  of  the  world. 
There  is  fishing  in  the  neighborhocd  for  black  bass,  perch,  and 
pickerel.     Chief  hotel  the  Welland  House  ($2). 

The  Welland  Canal,  connecting  the  waters  of  Lakes  Erie  and 
Ontario,  is  a  work  of  tremendous  importance,  giving  as  it  does  an  out- 
let to  the  sea  for  the  vast  trade  of  the  Great  Lakes.  The  canal  is  27 
miles  in  length  from  Port  Colborne  on  Lake  Erie  to  Port  Dalhousie  on 
Lake  Ontario.  The  difference  in  level  between  the  lakes  is  about  827 
2 


II 


NIAGARA   TO   TORONTO. 


i 

<   i 
i 

i 

i  if 


ft.,  which  is  overcome  by  a  Hystcin  of  25  lift-locks.  All  the  masonry 
of  the  work  is  of  splendid  and  massive  proportions,  and  is  built  of  an 
enduring  gray  limestone.  At  Wei  land  the  canal  is  led  over  the  Chip- 
pewa River  by  a  costly  acpieduct.  The  original  feeder  of  the  canal  was 
the  Chippewa  River,  which  proving  at  times  inadequate,  a  branch  canal 
was  cut  to  the  Grand  River.  Of  late,  however,  arrangements  have 
been  made  by  which  the  canal  is  always  adequately  supplied  from 
Lake  Erie  itself.  Along  the  line  of  the  cannl  arc  strung  a  nimiber  of 
prosperous  villages.  The  first  sod  of  the  original  canal  was  turned  in 
1 824.  Mr.  Mcrritt's  modest  conception  was  a  canal  "  4  ft.  deep,  7  ft. 
wide  at  bottom,  19  ft.  wide  at  the  water  surface,  and  to  accommodate 
vessels  not  exceeding  40  tons  burden."  The  present  structure  has  a 
width  at  the  bottom  of  100  ft.,  and  accommodates  vessels  of  1,500  tons. 
Leaving  St.  Catharines  our  train  passes  the  villages  of  Jordan  and 
Beamsville,  and  27  miles  from  Niagara  we  find  ourselves  at  the  busy 
village  of  Grimsby.  Here  is  the  summer  resort  of  Grimsby  Park, 
with  its  famous  Methodist  camp-meeting  ground  in  a  grove  of  oaks  and 
pines  beside  the  lake.  The  region  about  Griirsby  is  literally  one  great 
peach-orchard.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  something  like  400,000 
peach-trees  in  the  Niagara  district,  which  ships  annually  over  a  million 
baskets  of  this  delicious  fruit.  The  toauty  of  the  peach  orchards, 
whether  in  bloom  or  when  bending  under  their  wealth  of  luscious  pink 
and  white  and  golden  spheres,  is  something  that  beggars  description. 
The  peach  harvest  begins  about  the  end  of  July  and  continues  until 
the  middle  of  October.  The  peaches  are  shipped  all  over  Canada  in 
baskets  covered  with  pink  gauze.  In  this  favored  region  flourish  also 
apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  all  kinds  of  small  fruits,  melons,  quinces, 
grapes,  walnuts,  chestnuts,  and  even  figs.  Beyond  Grimsby  we  have 
only  the  stations  of  Winona  and  Stoney  Creek  to  pass  before  we  come 
to  Hamilton. 

Hamilton. 

The  chief  hotel  of  Hamilton  is  the  Royal  ($2.50  to  $4  a  day), 
which  is  first  class  in  every  respect ;  but  there  are  many  other  good 
hotels,  such  as  the  St.  Nicholas  ($1.50  to  $2)  and  the  Dominion  (f  1  to 
$1.50),  where  the  tourist  may  be  accommodated  more  cheaply.  The 
city  is  well  supplied  with  restaurants,  called  coffee-rooms.  The  chief 
club  is  the  Hamilton  Club.  Theatres,  the  Grand  Opera-House,  Asso- 
ciation Hall,  Alexandra  Arcade.  The  city  is  traversed  by  street-cars, 
and  hacks  are  to  be  obtained  at  the  station  and  the  cab-stands  as 
well  as  at  the  chief  hotels. 


1    :- 


NIAGARA    TO   TORONTO. 


19 


The  city  of  ITamilton  is  beautifully  and  fortunately  situated  at 
the  head  of  navlpntion  on  Lake  Ontario.  Across  the  upper  end  of  the 
lake,  where  the  northern  and  southern  shores  stand  but  B  miles  apart, 
the  east  winds  of  centuries  have  heaped  together  a  long  bar  of  sand 
nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  width.  Tliis  is  known  as  Burlington 
Beach,  and  it  cuts  off  from  tlie  stormy  lake  the  quiet  waters  of  Hur- 
linfjton  Bay,  the  harbor  of  Hamilton.  A  short  canal  through  the  Beach 
connects  the  inner  and  the  outer  waters.  The  Beach  is  a  favorite  sum- 
mer resort  for  the  citizens  of  Hamilton. 

Hamilton  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  hill  called  the  "  Mountain,"  and 
occupies  one  of  those  "  benches  "  which  suri'ound  the  lake,  and  prob- 
ably mark  a  former  level  of  its  surface.  The  site  of  Hamilton  was 
chosen  originally  by  a  loyalist  refugee,  one  Robert  Land,  on  account 
of  its  splendid  landscape.  The  "  Jflountain "  is  a  portion  of  the 
Niagara  escarpment,  which  here  curves  grandly  back  from  the  lake  to 
form  the  amphitheatre  which  the  city  occupies.  Down  a  great  sloping 
strath,  dividing  the  heights  in  this  neighborhood  like  a  gigantic  gut- 
ter, at  the  foot  of  which  now  lies  the  town  of  Dundus,  geologists  tell 
us  that,  in  remotest  ages,  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  discharged  them- 
selves, instead  of  at  Niagara. 

Hamilton  maybe  said  to  have  had  its  birth  in  the  War  of  1812, 
when  Burlington  Heights  became  a  center  of  military  operations,  and 
one  George  Hamilton  cut  up  his  farm  into  town  lots.  In  1824  the  cut- 
ting of  a  canal  through  Burlington  Beach  began  the  prosperity  of  Ham- 
ilton, which,  however,  was  sadly  interfered  with  by  the  cholera  plague 
and  great  fire  in  1832.  Hamilton  was  not  disheartened,  and  went  to 
work  again  with  the  pluck  and  spirit  which  have  earned  her  the  title 
of  "the  Ambitious  City."  Her  ambition  bids  fair  to  be  gratified  in  all 
save  one  particular — and  in  that  she  has  by  this  time  relinquished  all 
hope.  Of  old,  she  thought  to  outstrip  Toronto;  but  when,  in  1888, 
with  a  popidation  less  than  45,000,  she  saw  Toronto  with  170,000,  she 
probably  changed  the  tenor  of  her  ambition  to  something  more  within 
the  range  of  possibility.  Her  ancient  rivals,  Ancaster  and  Dundas, 
she  has  long  ago  left  utterly  behind,  reducing  them  to  the  rank  of  sub- 
urban villages. 

Hamilton  is  a  wealthy  and  tirelessly  energetic  city,  with  manufact- 
uring interests  out  of  all  proportion  to  its  size.  It  is  the  cathedral  city 
of  two  dioceses,  the  Anglican  bishopric  of  Niagara  and  the  Boman 
Catholic  bishopric  of  Hamilton.    The  city  has  handsome  public  build- 


! 


i 


I  ; 


t      i 

1 


20 


NIAGARA    TO   TOIIONTO. 


ings, 


and  stattly  private  rosidcncos  on  tlie  Mountain.  Creating  the 
height  are  the  spfti'iouH  buildings  of  the  Lunntie  Asylum.  A  stately 
thoroughfare,  dividing  the  eity  from  the  Mountain  to  the  bay,  is  MeXab 
St.,  named  for  Haniiltcm's  h«'ro,  the  politieian,  patriot,  and  sohlier, 
Sir  Allan  McNab.  It  was  he  who,  during  the  rebellion  in  1837,  shat- 
tered the  power  of  the  rebels  at  Toronto,  nnd  organized  the  flotilla  on 
the  Niagara  whieh  eut  out  the  steamer  Caroline  and  sent  her  over 
the  Falls.  On  the  heights  stands  Diindurn  Castle,  where  Sir  Allan  used 
to  live,  looking  out  over  the  eity  whose  prosperity  he  had  done  so  much 
to  promote.  One  of  the  most  delightful  features  of  Hamilton  is  what  is 
known  as  "The  Gore."  This  is  a  spacious  and  beautiful  public  gar- 
den in  the  heart  of  the  eity,  with  the  busiest  thoroughfares  all  about 
it.  The  o[)en  space,  whieh  is  cool  and  musical  with  fountains  and  brill- 
iant with  flowers,  is  triangular  in  shape,  and  forn)ed  by  the  converging 
of  York,  James,  and  King  Sts.  Overlooking  "The  Gore"  are  the 
thoroughly  arti^stie  buildings  of  the  Hamilton  Provident  and  Loan 
Society,  the  Canada  Life  Assurance  Company,  and  the  Court-House. 
J3ut  6  miles  from  Hamilton,  and  connected  with  it  by  a  steam  tramway, 
is  Dundas.  In  one  thing  Dundas  can  never  be  outrivaled  by  Hamilton, 
and  that  is  in  her  magnificent  landscape,  which  opens  like  a  dream  be- 
fore the  traveler's  eyes  as  he  sweeps  around  the  mountain.  At  the 
foot  of  the  lovely  Dundas  Valley  lies  a  wide  marsh  which  goes  by 
the  nickname  of  "  Coote's  Paradise,"  after  an  English  officer,  Captain 
Coote,  who  was  deeply  enamored  of  the  fine  duck,  snipe,  and  "coot" 
shooting  there  to  be  obtained.  The  marsh  still  maintains  its  repu- 
tation ;  and  in  Burlington  Bay  are  good  black  bass,  silver  bass,  perch, 
and  pike  fishing.  Tht  pike  take  the  trollmg->po()n  freely  during 
the  latter  part  of  August,  but  at  other  times  rise  better  to  the  live 
minnow. 

From  IIamilt(m  to  Toronto,  if  wearied  of  the  rail,  one  may  go  by 
the  steamers  of  the  Hamilton  Steamboat  Co.,  four  times  daily  (fare, 
75c.),  a  trip  of  38  miles  along  a  pleasant  coast.  The  boats  are  fast 
and  comfortable,  and  call  each  way  at  Burlington  Beach  and  at  the 
vast  strawberry-gardens  of  Oakville.  The  tourist  desirous  of  visiting 
the  Northern  Lakes,  or  what  is  perhaps  more  widely  known  as  the 
Muskoka  region,  may  branch  off  by  the  Hamilton  and  Allaiidale  Line 
from  Hamilton  via  Beeton  and  Barrie,  and  leave  Toronto  till  his  re- 
turn, but  the  fastest  train  services  center  in  Toronto.  Beeton  is  of 
interest  as  the  center  of  the  great  honey  industry  of  Ontario.    The 


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toron: 


A.  Union  Station,  3  C 

Canadian  I-^ciflu  Uailway 
Grand  Trunk  Railway 

B.  Nteamboat  Landings,  'i  D 

Foot  of  Yonge  St. 

HotelH. 

1.  Quwn's,  S  C 

i.  llOBsIn  House,  3  ( ' 

3.  Palmer  Home,  3  *.' 

4.  Walker  House,  3  C 
6.  Arlington,  3  C 
6.  Metropole,  3  C 
1.  Elliott  House,  3  D 

TheatcFH,  Ete. 

8.  G'-oil  Op«ra  House,  S  D 

9.  Toronto  Opera  House,  3  1) 

10.  Academy  of  Music,  3  C 

11.  Massey's  Music  Hall,  3  U 
13.  PavUlon,  I  D 


31.  Old  City  Hall,  3  1) 

33.  Osgoode  Hall,  3  C 

''i3.  Provincial  Lunatic  Asylum,  3  B 

34.  Mercer  Reformatory,  3  A 

36.  Central  Prison,  2  B 

3tf.  Free  Public  Library,  3  D 

37.  General  Hospital,  I  R 

38.  CuMtom  House,  3  D 

39.  House  of  Providence,  3  E 
m.  Toronto  University.  1  0 
ill.  Knox  College,  Pres.,  1  O 


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TORONTO. 


21 


whole  surrounding  country  is  full  of  bee  farms,  and  sweet  the  summer 
through  with  the  scent  of  honey-bearing  bloj^sioms.  The  pedigrees  of 
the  swarms  arc  watched  with  the  same  care  that  breeders  of  thorough- 
bred cattle  give  to  their  stock,  and  solitary  islands  in  Georgian  Bay, 
to  the  north,  are  made  use  of  as  bee  nurseries  to  preserve  the  purity 
of  the  favorite  strains.  The  science  of  apiculture  at  Bceton  has  been 
brought  to  a  high  degree  of  perfection.  At  Barrie,  on  Lake  Simcoe, 
we  meet  the  line  from  Toronto  via  Bradford. 

Toronto. 

The  approach  to  Toronto  is  more  eflfective  by  water  than  by  land. 
As  the  steamer  passes  Gibraltar  Point,  she  rounds  into  a  safo  and 
spacious  harbor  crowded  with  the  traffic  of  the  lakes.  This  harbor  is 
formed  by  what  is  known  as  The  Island,  which  is  the  great  summer 
pleasure-ground  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  city.  The  Island  is  to 
Toronto  what  Coney  Island  and  Manhattan  Beach  are  to  New  York. 
It  is  really  nothing  more  than  a  great  sand-bank  formed  by  the  drift 
and  offscourings  from  iScarboro'  Heights,  and  its  shape  is  continually 
changing.  The  lighthouse  on  Gibraltar  Point,  built  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  water,  stands  now  some  distance  inland.  A  few  years  ago  the 
Island  was  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  strip  of  beach  to  the 
east,  but  storms  having  breached  the  isthmus  at  Ashbridge's  Bay,  a 
narrow  channel  was  formed  which  has  since  been  widening.  The  Isl- 
and is  fringed  with  lightly-built  summer  cottages  whose  thresholds  arc 
ceaselessly  invaded  by  the  sand  drift.  All  summer  the  white  beaches 
swarm  with  merry  life  and  the  shallow  pools  with  bathers.  High  over 
the  cottages  and  the  willow  thickets  tower  the  gables  of  a  great  summer 
hotel,  which  was  built  by  Ilanlon,  the  ex-champion  oarsman  of  the 
world.  The  hotel  is  surrounded  with  dancing  pavilions  and  roller- 
coasters  and  merry-go-rounds,  and  bands  play  in  front  of  it  through 
the  summer  evenings.  Between  the  island  and  the  city  pass  and  re- 
pass the  unremitting  ferries. 

Toronto,  the  "  Queen  City,"  as  we  Canadians  fondly  call  her,  slopes 
very  gently  from  the  lake's  edge  back  to  the  wooded  line  of  the  Daven- 
port Hills.  The  almost  level  expanse  of  her  sea  of  roofs  is  broken 
with  many  spires  and  with  the  green  crowns  of  innumerable  elms  and 
horse-chestnuts.  All  through  her  temperate  summers  her  streets  are 
deliciously  shadowed ;  all  through  her  mild  winters  the  sunlight 
streams  in  freely  through  the  naked  branches. 


If  I 


•  TORONTO. 

From  tlie  Don's  mouth  on  the  E.  to  the  Ilumber  on  the  W.,  a  dis- 
tance of  8  miles,  tlie  city  stretches  an  unbroken  front  along  the  rim  of 
the  laka.  JJctween  these  limits  is  gathered  a  population  of  about  200,000 
— a  population  which  is  increasing  at  a  rate  with  which  few  other  cities 
on  the  continent  can  compare.  Already  she  begins  to  reach  out  beyond 
her  containing  streams.  All  Ontai-io  and  much  of  our  Northwest, 
regions  gi-owing  ra|)idly  in  we  ilth  and  i)opuIation,  are  tributary  to  her, 
and  must  continue  to  nourish  her  growth.  No  other  city  on  the  lakes, 
with  the  exception  of  Chicago,  has  fairer  prospects  for  the  future  than 
Toronto. 

The  very  name  Toronto  signifies  *'  a  place  of  meeting,"  a  place  where 
men  are  gathered  together.  The  first  mention  of  the  name  is  in  some 
French  memoirs  of  IGHli,  where  it  is  applied  to  the  Portage  from  the 
Humber  to  Lake  Simcoe.  In  the  sheltered  harbor  at  the  Ontario  end 
of  the  trail  the  French  erected  a  fort,  the  remains  of  which  are  yet  to 
be  seen  in  the  exhibition  grounds.  To  this  post,  at  first  called  Fort 
Rouille,  the  name  Fort  Toronto  was  afterward  given. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  TORONTO. 

Ontario,  as  a  separate  province,  is  the  creation  of  the  United  Empire 
Loyalists,  and  Toronto  was  the  creation  of  (Jovernor  Simcoe,  the  first 
governor  of  the  new  province.  These  United  Empire  Loyalists,  whose 
experiences  and  whose  work  in  province-building  we  shall  again  refer 
to  when  writing  of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  were  inhabit- 
ants of  the  thirteen  colonies  to  the  south  who  remained  loyal  to  the 
mother-country  during  the  American  Revolution.  They  were  an  ener- 
getic and  fearless  people,  possessing  fidly  the  courage  of  their  convic- 
tions, and  not  unnaturally  the  feeling  between  them  and  their  insurgent 
fellow-countrymen  was  implacably  bitter.  When  the  independence  of 
the  Thirteen  Colonies  was  acknowledged,  their  position  was  difficult  in 
the  extreme.  They  could  not  accept  the  new  order,  and  to  the  new 
order  they  were  hopelessly  unacceptable.  They  had  staked  everything 
on  the  triumph  of  England,  and  to  England  they  now  looked  f o  •  help. 
They  were  given  lands  in  Canada  and  Nova  Scotia ;  and  their  splendid 
energy  and  courage  carried  them  through  difficulties  and  hardships  un- 
der which  a  weaker  people  would  have  succumbed.  A  very  large  pro- 
portion of  them  belonged  to  the  educated  and  cultured  classes.  Their 
great  exodus  from  under  the  shadow  of  the  new  flag  took  place  in  the 
years  1783  and  1784 ;  but  when  the  new  province  of  Upper  Canada 


TORONTO. 


23 


was  organized  under  the  wise  supervision  of  Governor  Simcoe,  addi- 
tional parties  flocked  in,  and  in  tlie  four  years  from  1791  to  1795  their 
numbers  increased  in  that  province  from  12,000  to  '}0,000.  Proniinerit 
among  tlie  United  Empire  Loyalists  were  the  Indians  of  the  Six  Na- 
tions, under  their  great  and  humane  warrior-chieftain,  Joseph  Brant  or 
Thayendanagea.  These  faithful  allies  were  granted  a  fertile  territory 
along  the  course  of  the  Grand  River. 

As  we  have  already  mentioned,  Niagara-on-the-Lake  was  the  first 
capital  of  Upper  Canada.  Gradually  it  was  borne  in  upon  the  pro- 
vincial authorities  that  a  town  like  Niagara,  within  range  of  American 
guns,  was  ill  adapted  to  be  the  seat  of  government.  Thereupon  the 
capital  was  shifted  to  the  "  Place  of  Meeting,"  across  the  lake,  and 
the  infant  executive  felt  more  secure.  The  significant  and  musical 
name,  however,  was  changed,  and  Toronto  became  York.  What 
are  significance  and  beauty  when  weighed  in  the  balance  against  a 
compliment  to  the  heir-apparent  ?  This  was  in  1 793 ;  but  though 
the  old  name  was  exiled  from  the  village  it  seemed  to  cling  in  the 
hearts  of  the  inhabitants.  The  name  of  York  was  worn  like  an  ill- 
fitting  garment.  "  Muddy  York "  it  was  called  by  derisive  but  not 
unenvious  neighbors.  And  when,  in  1834,  the  village  took  unto  itself 
the  title  and  the  dignity  of  a  city,  the  name  of  York,  with  its  contume- 
lious epithet,  was  eagerly  sloughed  oflP,  and  the  "  Place  of  Meeting  "  re- 
sumed its  ancient  title.  In  1794  there  were  but  12  houses  at  Toronto, 
and  when  the  War  of  1812  broke  out  this  provincial  capital,  now  the 
second  city  in  the  Dominion,  contained  but  900  inhabitants. 

In  the  War  of  1812  Toronto  was  twice  captured  by  the  Americans, 
who  destroyed  the  fortifications  and  sacked  the  town,  after  a  struggle 
lasting  from  early  morning  to  sundown,  when  the  English  general, 
considering  the  position  untenable,  abandoned  it  when  he  found  him- 
self confronted  with  a  vastly  superior  force.  The  Canadian  militia, 
who  bore  the  brunt  of  the  war,  preferred  to  select  some  more  advan- 
tageous battle-ground  than  the  exposed  provincial  capital.  All  through 
this  war  the  chief  honors,  in  the  land  battles,  fell  generally  to  the 
Canadian  arms.  On  the  American  side  the  war  was  strongly  disap- 
proved of  by  the  best  men ;  its  object  being  thus  sarcastically  charac- 
terized by  Randolph  of  Virginia :  "  The  people  of  Canada  are  first  to 
be  seduced  from  their  allegiance,  and  converted  into  traitors,  as  a 
preparation  for  making  them  good  American  citizens."  The  spirit 
with  which  the  Canadians  went  into  the  contest  is  thus  described  by 


24 


TORONTO. 


Colonel  G.  T.  Denison :  "In  1812  every  able-bodied  man  went  to  the 
frontier  to  fight,  leaving  the  old  men,  the  boys,  and  the  women  to  till 
the  fields.  One  might  travel  a  day's  journey  in  this  province  during 
that  war  without  meeting  an  able  bodied  man,  as  they  were  all  on  the 
frontier." 

In  1837  occurred  the  rebellion  of  William  Lyon  Mackenzie,  who 
called  himself  "  Chairman  pro  tern,  of  the  Provisional  Government  of  the 
State  of  Upper  Canada."  The  foolish  self-styled  patriots  established 
what  they  called  a  Provisional  Government  on  Navy  Island  in  the  Niag- 
ara River ;  but  the  rebel  rendezvous  was  a  place  known  as  "  Mont- 
gomery's Tavern,"  on  Yonge  St.,  a  few  miles  north  of  the  city  lim- 
its. With  a  force  of  about  900  men  the  rebels  threatened  Toronto ; 
but  when  the  "  Men  of  Gore  "  arrived,  under  Colonel  McNab,  the  rebel 
bands  were  scattered  after  a  short  but  sharp  struggle.  Soon  afterward 
took  place  the  destruction  of  the  steamer  Caroline,  already  referred  to. 
This  exploit  has  been  thus  described  by  Dr.  Bryce : 

"  The  Provisional  Government  was  now  organized  on  Navy  Island, 
in  the  Niagara  River.  The  patriot  flag,  with  twin  stars  and  the  motto, 
'  Liberty  and  Equality,'  was  hoisted,  and  planted  in  the  face  of  Colonel 
McNab,  who  held  the  Canadian  shore.  A  daring  action  was  performed 
on  December  21  by  Captain  Drew,  R.  N.,  one  of  McNab's  command. 
The  insurgents  had  made  use  of  a  vess«»l,  the  Caroline,  in  carrying  sup- 
plies from  the  American  shore  to  Navy  Island.  The  vessel  lay  moored 
for  the  night  under  the  very  guns  of  Fort  Schlosser ;  indeed,  the  shadows 
of  the  fort  enveloped  the  Caroline.  With  7  boats,  carrying  some  60 
men  in  all,  who  were  armed  with  pistols,  cutlasses,  and  pikes,  the 
captain  boarded  the  ill-fated  vessel,  captured  her,  but  not  being  able, 
on  account  of  the  current,  to  bring  her  to  the  Canadian  side,  sent  her 
flaming  over  the  Niagara  Falls.  The  vessel  proved  to  be  an  American 
bottom,  and  so  Britain  was  compelled  to  disavow  the  seizure,  but  noth- 
ing could  blot  out  the  bravery  of  the  deed." 


THE  TORONTO  OP  THE  PRESENT. 


Hotels,  etc. — The  Queen^s  Hotel  (|3  to  $4),  in  Front  St.;  the 
Rossin  Nome  ($2.50  to  $3),  cor.  King  and  York  Sts. ;  the  Wafker  Home 
($2  and  $2.60),  Front  and  York  Sts. ;  and  the  Arlington,  cor.  King  and 
John  Sts.  Street  cars  (fare,  5c.)  render  all  parts  of  the  city  easily  ac- 
cessible. Cab  rates  are  $1  an  hour.  From  station  or  Niagara  steamer's 
dock  to  hotel,  25c.  The  chief  clubs  are  the  National,  Toronto,  and  Al- 
bany Clubs ;  also  the  Victoria,  Granite,  Athenaeum,  Press,  and  the  vari- 
ous political  clubs.  Theatres:  Grand  Opera-Hou.se,  Shaftesbury  Hall, 
Princess,  Toi'onto  Opera-IIouse,  Horticultural  Gardens,  and  Robinson's 
Mu86e, 


TORONTO. 


25 


The  Toronto  of  the  present  offers  many  attractions  to  the  visitor. 
It  is  the  best  possible  place  to  pause  and  lay  one's  plans.  It  may  fairly 
claim  to  be  called  the  intellectual  center  of  the  Dominion.  Filled  with 
a  homogeneous  and  successful  population,  looking  back  upon  a  past  of 
wonderful  achievement,  and  forward  to  a  future  bright  with  all  pos- 
sibilities, it  is  instinct  with  the  sanguine  and  self-reliant  spirit  of  this 
young  Canadian  people.  Its  hotels  are  of  the  best;  its  open  water- 
front and  quiet  harbor  offer  every  facility  for  boating,  canoeing,  and 
yachting.  There  in  charming  scenery  in  the  immediate  neighborhood, 
and  within  easy  reach  are  the  gigantic  maskinonge  and  swarming  trout 
and  black  bass  of  the  wild  Muskoka  waters. 

The  principal  street  of  Toronto,  as  it  was  of  the  original  village,  is 
King  St.,  running  E.  and  W.  between  the  Don  and  the  Humber. 
Where  now  stands  the  old  jail  were  erected  the  first  Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment of  Upper  Canada.  These  were  wooden  buildings  and  of  no 
great  architectural  distinction.  During  the  War  of  1812  they  were 
burned  with  the  Library  and  the  provmcial  records,  by  the  American 
invaders.  This  injury  was  avenged  a  few  months  later,  when  a  Brit- 
ish force  destroyed  the  public  buildings  at  Washington.  Opposite  the 
spot  where  now  towers  the  noble  structure  of  St.  James's  Cathedral  was 
once  the  market-place.  Here  stood  the  stocks  and  pillory,  which  were 
in  use  up  to  1834.  Either  the  men  of  Toronto  were  less  gallant  in 
those  days,  or  her  women  less  deserving,  for  we  find  in  the  town  rec- 
ords that  one  Elizabeth  Ellis,  convicted  of  being  a  public  nuisance,  was 
condemned  to  stand  in  the  pillory  for  two  hours  at  a  time  on  two  suc- 
cessive market-days.  The  women  of  Toronto  are  still  held  up  to  the 
gaze  of  the  world,  but  it  is  for  the  world's  admiration,  as  they  display 
some  of  the  most  attractive  types  of  Canadian  beauty.  Next  in  im- 
portance to  King  St.  is  Yonge,  which  runs  at  right  angles  to  it. 
If  we  may  accept  the  authority  of  George  Augustus  Sala,  this  is  the 
longest  street  in  the  world.  It  runs  N.  from  the  water's  edge,  and 
was  laid  out  in  1793,  to  be  used  as  a  portage  to  the  upper  lakes. 
The  object  of  this  was  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  ascending  Lake  Erie 
and  passing  under  the  guns  of  the  American  fort  at  Detroit.  For  the 
first  46  miles  of  its  extent  Yonge  St.  became  the  main  artery  of  the 
province,  and  was  speedily  lined  with  homesteads.  Apropos  of  the 
"  magnificent  distances  "  of  this  thoroughfare  the  following  anecdote 
may  be  quoted  from  an  entertaining  and  valuable  work  by  Dr.  Scad- 
ding,  entitled  "  Toronto  of  Old  " :  A  story  is  told  of  a  tourist,  newly 


I 

if 

la 


III 
I 

i 


26 


TORONTO. 


arrived  at  York,  wishing  to  utilize  a  stroll  before  breakfast  by  making 
out  as  he  went  along  the  whereabouts  of  a  gentleman  to  whom  he  had 
a  letter.  Passing  down  the  hall  of  his  hotel  he  asked,  in  a  casual  way 
of  the  book-keeper,  "  Can  you  tell  me  where  Mr.  So-and-so  lives  ? " 
(leisurely  producing  the  note  from  his  breast  pocket) ;  "  it  is  somewhere 
along  Yonge  St.  here  in  town."  "  Oh,  yes,"  was  the  reply,  when  the 
address  had  been  glanced  at,  "  Mr.  So-and-so  lives  on  Yonge  St,,  about 
25  miles  up  !  " 

At  the  corner  of  King  and  Yonge  Sts.  throbs  the  heart  of  the  city.* 
From  King  St.  northward  to  the  city  limits  Yonge  St.  is  lined  with 
fine  retail  establishments.  From  King  St.  S.  to  the  water  it  is  built 
up  with  massive  warehouses.  This  applies  equally  to  Front  St.,  which 
skirts  the  harbor.  At  the  water-front  of  Yonge  stands  the  Custom- 
House,  a  piece  of  elaborately  decorated  Italian  architecture.  Between 
Front  St.  and  the  wateP  to  the  W.  of  Yonge  lies  a  low  flat  known  as 
the  Esplanade.  Here  the  various  converging  railways  enter  the  city, 
and  here  at  the  foot  of  York  St.,  where  in  1851  the  Countess  of  Elgin 
turned  the  first  sod  of  the  Ontario,  Simcoe  and  Huron  R.Il.,  stands 
the  Union  Station.  The  interest  of  Front  St.  may  be  said  to  termi- 
nate at  the  old  Parliament  Buildings,  which  have  given  place  to  the 
splendid  structures  erected  in  Queen's  Park.  Toronto  is  a  city  of 
churches,  there  being  over  120  churches  and  chapels  within  its  bor- 
ders. This  being  the  case,  it  goes  without  saying  that  Sunday  is  relig- 
iously observed  as  a  day  of  rest.  Except  when  the  churches  are  draw- 
ing in  or  pouring  forth  their  demurely  pacing  throngs,  the  city  seems 


i  I 


*  This  is  the  most  convenient  point  from  which  to  calculate  dis- 
tances when  arranging  for  drives  through  the  suburbs.  The  following 
table  of  ways  and  distances  I  take  from  Mr.  Barlow  Cumberland's  use- 
ful handbook  to  "  The  Northern  Lakes  of  Canada."  : 

Distances  out  and  back  from  Corner  of  King  and  Yonge  Streets. 

East. — The  Lake  Shore  Road,  Woodbine,  Ben  Lomond,  Don  and 
Danforth  Road,  and  the  Necropolis — 8^  raile.s. 

Northeast  — Necropolis,  Todmorden,  Don  Valley,  Eglington,  Mount 
Pleasant — 6^  miles. 

North. — Queen's  Park,  Deer  Park,  Ridge  Road,  St.  Albans  St.,  St. 
George  St. — 6  miles. 

Northwest. — College  St.,  Bloor  St.,  Slattery's  High  Park,  Queen 
St.,  and  Subway — 8|  miles. 

West. — King  St.,  Lake  Shore  Rond,  Humber  Bay  and  back — 9 
miles. 


TORONTO. 


27 


asleep;  and  from  seven  o'clock  on  Saturday  evening  until  a  seemly 
hour  on  Monday  mor;  '...^  i«o  one  cm  gain  admittance  to  the  bar-rooms 
—except  by  the  back  door !  A  little  E.  of  the  corner  of  Yonge  is  St. 
James's  Cathedral,  at  the  junction  of  King  and  Church  Sts.  This 
building  is  of  simple  and  noble  design,  in  what  is  known  as  perpendic- 
ular Gothic.  Its  spire,  soaring  to  a  height  of  316  ft.,  is  with  one  excep- 
tion the  loftiest  on  the  continent ;  the  newly  completed  spires  of  St. 
Patrick's  Cathedral  in  New  York  reach  the  height  of  328  ft.  Within 
the  tower  of  St.  James's  Cathedral  is  an  exquisite  chime  of  bells,  and 
all  Toronto  prides  itself  on  the  celebrated  clock  of  St.  James's,  which 
won  the  first  prize  at  the  Vienna  Exhibition.  The  interior  of  the  cathe- 
dral contains  monuments  to  some  of  the  distinguished  sons  of  Ontario, 
and  to  that  strong  old  ecclesiastic,  Bishop  Strachan,  than  whom  few  pas- 
tors have  been  better  able  to  rule  their  flocks.  The  chancel  windows 
are  fine  examples  of  the  best  stained-glass  work  of  Munich.  St.  James'p 
Cathedral  is  the  fourth  church  which  has  occupied  the  present  site,  fire 
having  removed  its  three  predecessors.  From  the  tower  a  magnificent 
view  may  be  had  of  Toronto  and  her  surroundings. 

Some  important  buildings  in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  James's  Ca- 
thedral are  the  St.  Lawrence  Hall  and  Market,  the  old  City  Hall,  the  ad- 
mirably managed  Public  Library,  at  the  corner  of  Adelaide  and  Church 
Sts.,  and  the  Post-Office,  on  Adelaide  at  the  head  of  Toronto  St.  This 
short  thoroughfare  is  the  Wall  St.  of  Toronto.  A  little  to  the  W.  of 
the  Post-Offlce  is  the  Grand  Opera-IIouse,  on  whose  spacious  stage 
have  moved  the  most  brilliant  modern  actors.  This  theatre  has  a  seat- 
ing capacity  of  2,300. 

Moving  westward  along  King  St.,  we  come  to  a  stately  piece  of  Nor- 
man architecture,  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  8t.  Andrew's,  at  the 
corner  of  King  and  Simcoe.  Opposite  St.  Andrew's  is  Government 
House,  a  handsome  building  of  modern  French  design.  The  main  en 
trance  is  on  Simcoe  St.,  under  a  spacious  and  elaborate  carriage  porch. 
The  gardens  are  broad  and  well  kept,  and  the  little  valley  winding 
through  them  was  once  Russell's  Creek,  up  which  Governor  Simcoe 
used  to  row  when  the  infant  capital  was  but  a  lake-side  clearing.  The 
dining-room  at  Government  House  contains  a  fipe  collection  of  por- 
traits. Permission  to  view  the  interior  must  be  obtained  from  the 
A.  D.  C.  Just  beyond  Government  Hause,  in  the  midst  of  ample 
grounds,  are  the  old  Upper  Canada  College  buildings,  which,  having 
outgrown  their  usefulness,  are  now  deserted,  and  this  famed  seat  of 


*'  I 


28 


TORONTO. 


learninf*  is  now  locatorl  in  a  nmj;;nifiocnt  structure  in  Doer  Park,  another 
part  of  the  city.  Close  by  is  John  St.,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the  fine 
ohl  colonial  mansion  of  The  (Jrangc,  the  home  of  (ioldwin  Smith.  On 
the  carriape-way  of  the  (iranf^e  estate,  some  threescore  years  ago,  tra- 
dition hath  it  tluit  the  owner's  horses  were  attacked  by  bears  as  they 
were  being  driven  up  to  the  doorway.  Continuinir  along  King  St.  to  the 
Central  Prison,  (me  may  turn  S.  again  to  the  water  and  visit  the  old  and 
new  forts,  |)arade-ground,  and  well-kept  cxhibition-groimds  with  their 
Crystal  Palace.  Still  moving  W.,  we  pass  through  Parkdale,  where 
stand  the  Home  for  Incurables  and  the  Mercer  lieformatory ;  and  we 
end  our  wanderings  hi  this  direction  among  the  picnic-grounds  of  High 
Park  on  the  Humber. 

If  we  return  by  way  of  Queen  St.,  we  pass  the  Provincial  Lunatic 
Asyhmi  and  the  graceful  buildings  of  Trinity  University  in  their 
ample  and  park-like  grqunds.  Trinity  is  a  (Miurcli  of  En-^lund  institu- 
tion, and  was  founded  by  the  indomitable  iJishop  Strachan  when  old 
King's  College  of  Up|)er  Canada  was  secularized  and  became  the  Uni- 
versity of  Toronto.  Trinity  University  is  a  piece  of  sound  and  excel- 
lent architecture,  of  the  period  known  as  Pointed  English,  and  is  built 
of  white  brick  dressed  with  gray  stone. 

On  Queen  St.,  between  Yonge  and  College  Ave.,  is  Osgoode  Hall, 
the  seat  of  the  Superior  Courts  of  the  Province,  of  the  Law  Society, 
and  the  Law  School.  The  building  is  nanied  after  the  first  Chief- 
Justice  of  Upper  Canada,  and  cost  ^300,000.  The  exterior  has  an  air 
of  solid  magnificence.  The  interior  is  of  unusiuil  beauty,  and  contains 
a  library  of  30,000  volumes.  Of  Osgoodc  Ilall  Anthony  TroUope  said, 
in  his  work  on  North  Anierica,  that  it  was  to  Upper  Canada  what  the 
Four  Courts  of  Dublin  are  to  Ireland,  and  that  the  comparison  would 
result  to  the  advantage  of  the  Canadian  edifice. 

College  Ave.  is  a  broad  boulevard  running  N.  from  Queen  St. 
to  Queen's  Park,  Toronto's  chief  pleasure-ground.  This  avenue  is 
120  feet  wide  and  a  mile  in  length,  and  shaded  by  unbroken  lines  of 
elm  and  horse-chestnut.  It  enters  the  park  under  the  muzzles  of  a 
battery  of  Russian  cannon,  spoils  of  Sebastopol.  Turning  to  the  left  the 
carriage-way  skirts  the  edge  of  a  ravine  and  passes  the  Volunteers' 
Monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  Canadians  who  fell  in  the  Fenian 
raid  of  1866.  Opposite  stands  the  bronze  statue  of  the  Hon.  George 
Brown,  one  of  the  chief  statesmen  of  Canada,  and  founder  of  the  To- 
ronto Globe.    This  statue  is  a  fine  piece  of  sculpture,  and  was  done  by 


TORONTO. 


29 


Bureli,  of  London.  Quoim's  Piuk  in  a  portion  of  the  estate  of  Toronto 
TTiiiverNity,  and  was  liandod  over  to  the  city  on  a  perpetual  lease. 
The  university  grounds  and  buildings  adjoin  the  park  on  the  W.  The 
buildings  were  destroyed  by  tiro  a  few  years  ago,  but  the  loss  was  one 
that  was  soon  repaired.  It  is  not  too  niueh  to  say  that  the  main  build- 
ing is  the  finest  piece  of  college  architecture  in  the  Xew  World.  In 
design  it  belongs  to  the  Norman  period,  and  the  s(piare  central  tower 
was  of  peculiarly  noble  and  satisfying  proportions.  The  deep  carved 
porch  is  famous  for  its  .'■olidity  and  richness.  The  buildings,  completely 
restored,  are  fully  equal  in  all  respects  to  the  original  buildings.  Across 
the  lawn  stands  the  Observatory,  the  home  of  the  meteorological  de- 
partment of  the  DoMunion,  commonly  known  as  "  Old  Probabilities." 
Not  far  from  the  Univer.ity  are  the  new  Government  buildings^ 
a  very  massive  and  handsome  block,  of  stone,  containing  the  Legisla- 
tive chamber  and  the  Departmental  offices.  Alongside  of  the  Observa- 
tory stands  a  distressingly  crude  structure  of  red  brick,  the  eyesore  of 
the  lovely  neighborhood.  This  is  the  School  of  Technology.  At  the 
head  of  the  park  is  a  fine  structure  of  brown  Credit  Valley  stone, 
faced  with  red  brick.  This  is  McMastei  Hall,  of  McMaster  Uni- 
versity, and  was  presented  to  the  Baptist  denomination  by  the  late 
Senator  McMaster.  A  little  W.  of  McMaster  Ilall  stands  the  gray- 
stone  pile  of  Knox  College,  belonging  to  the  Presbyterian  Church  ;  and 
in  the  immediate  neighborhood  stands  Victoria  University,  of  the  Jleth- 
odist  Church. 

Though  the  growth  of  Toronto  is  chiefly  toward  the  west  and  north, 
the  handsomest  residences  are  probably  east  of  Yonge,  on  Jarvis  and 
Sherbournc  Sts.,  and  on  various  cross-streets  connecting  them.  On  the 
corner  of  Gerard  and  Sherbourne  art  the  Horticultural  Gardens, 
which  were  opened  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  1 860.  They  occupy  a 
square  of  10  acres,  and  were  presented  to  the  city  by  the  Hon.  George 
Allan.  Entrance  to  the  grounds  is  free  between  the  hours  of  8  a.  m. 
and  6  P.  M.  On  the  west  side  of  the  gardens,  close  to  Church  St., 
stand  the  Pavilion  Music  Hall  and  the  Conservatories.  The  Pavilion 
has  seating  accommodation  for  3,000  people,  and  some  of  the  best  musi- 
cal talent  of  the  continent  appears  upon  its  stage.  The  annual  festi- 
vals of  the  Philharmonic  and  Choral  Societies  are  held  therein.  A 
short  distance  down  Church  St.  is  the  great  Metropolitan  Church 
of  the  Methodists.  Its  organ  is  the  largest  in  Canada  and  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  world,  containing  as  it  does  3,315  pipes  and  53  stops. 


I  s 


i1 


ao 


TIIK    MIIHKOKA    DIKTKKTr. 


■ 


I 


The  fmnoiiH  orRiiii  of  Stnisburg  (?iitlK'tlial  Iins  -Irt,  and  tlwit  of  Wcstiiiin- 
8U>r  Ablicy  :<2.  Near  the  Motiopolitaii  Cliuirh  stands  Nt.  Michael's 
Cathedral,  thu  soat  of  the  lioinan  Oatholiu  Arohbishop.  <Mi  (<liiui'h 
St.  alHo  is  the  Normal  Nchool,  witli  the  utHces  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  Kdueation.  The  buihliiigs  oeciipy  the  eenter  of  an  open 
8(piare,  eoverinp  7  or  H  arrcs.  The  f^urdi'ns  are  attraetivo  and  of 
Hpeeial  interest  to  tlie  student.  Tlie  Normal  Soliool  contains  a  fine 
gallery  of  paintin^rs  and  statues,  wliere  the  visitor  will  find  many  vaUi- 
able  ori,<;inals  and  reproduetions  of  most  of  the  masterpieees  of  ancient 
art.  Entrance  to  tlic  art  galU'ries  of  tlie  Normal  School  is  free  on  week- 
days from  U  A.  M.  to  f>  1'.  M.  Tourists  who  are  Interested  in  art  will  do 
well  to  visit  the  exhibition-rooms  of  the  Ontario  Society  of  Artists,  14 
Kinpf  St.,  West.  Whatever  they  may  be  interested  in,  they  will  do 
well  to  visit  the  lovely  and  aristocratic  suburb  of  Ilosedalc  ;  and  they 
will  do  well  to  pay  this  visit  at  a  time  when  Canada's  national  game  is 
being  played  at  the  Ilosedale  Lacrosse  (J rounds.  Lacrosse  is  a  game 
lacking  most  of  the  defects  of  foot-ball,  but  possessing  all  the  pre-emi- 
nent merits  of  that  most  manly  sport.  Toronto  has  produced  some  of 
the  most  skillful  Lacrosse  players  of  Canada — that  is  to  say,  of  the 
world ;  and  Toronto  boys,  one  might  almost  say,  are  born  with  a  "  stick  " 
in  their  hands.  The  Toronto  Base-ball  (irounds  are  situated  on  Kings- 
ton Road. 

The   JMuskoka   District. 

The  best  side-trip  to  be  taken  from  Toronto  is  that  to  the  lake 
country  of  Muskoka  lying  N.  of  Toronto,  between  Georgian  Bay  and 
the  Ottawa  River.  Fares  are  as  follows :  Toronto  to  Beaumaris  and 
return,  $5.55 ;  Pt.  Cockburn  and  return,  |7.05 ;  Rosseau  and  re- 
turn, $6.55  ;  Magnetawan  and  return,  $8.20 ;  Burk's  Falls  and  re- 
turn, $6.95.  A  quarter  of  a  century  ago  this  region  was  a  total  wil- 
derness ;  but  now  its  tangle  of  lakes  and  streams  is  dotted  with 
villages  and  summer  hotels.  Railroads  traverse  it  as  far  N.  as  Lake 
Nipissing,  and  steamboats  ply  upon  its  principal  waters.  The  innu- 
merable lakes  are  of  all  sizes,  from  40  miles  in  length  down  to  as  many 
rods.  All  are  clear,  deep,  and  cool,  and  swarm  with  brook  trout,  lake 
trout,  black  bass,  and  perch ;  while  the  covers  and  reed  beds  abound 
with  feathered  game,  and  deer  are  fairly  numerous.  In  some  of  these 
northern  waters  may  be  taken  that  fish  of  many  aliases,  the  "  Tiger  of 
the  Lakes,"  the  gigantic  maskinonge,  or  muscalongc.  The  Muskoka 
district  proper  lies  to  the  N.  of  the  high  divide  at  Gravenhurst,  and 


Til  10    MUHKOKA   DISTRICT. 


31 


cotnprlflPH  a  territory  about  tho  hIzc  of  lU'Ifjiiim.  Within  thlii  ftreii  1i  • 
Bonifthlns  over  l,t)(M>  laitcH.  Tho  diHtrict  Hoiith  of  (JriiVfuhiirHt  \h  loiif: 
Hettled,  but  contains  some  oxcollcnt  (isliing  and  shooting;  ^roiindn, 
about  the  lovely  waters  of  liulti's  Sinieoe,  Sparrow,  and  (.'ouchiehina;. 

Taking  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  we  skirt  the  eity  to  the  W.  and 
turn  N.  to  the  water-shed,  whore  streams  diverf^e  toward  Lake  II"''on. 
Emerging  from  the  hills  the  train  winds  through  the  pleasant  ^ale  of 
Aurora,  with  its  sweet  old-country  landscapes.  Passing  the  little  eotmtry 
town  of  Newmarket,  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  infant  stream  of  Holland 
River,  which  was  of  old  the  path  of  Indians  and  voi^affcurs  who  had 
just  made  the  portage  from  Toronto.  Hy  Holland  River  also  came  the 
war  parties  of  the  Iroquois  to  slaughter  the  Hiirons  on  Lake  Simcoe  and 
Georgian  Ray.  The  drowsy  village  of  Holland  Landing  was  once 
a  busy  mart,  when,  before  the  days  of  railroading,  all  the  traltic  of  the 
northern  settlements  passed  in  heavy  wagons  through  its  streets.  In 
1825  Sir  John  Franklin  called  at  Holland  Landing  on  his  first  expedi- 
tion overland  to  the  north  pole.  On  the  village  green  may  be  seen  a 
huge  anchor,  which  was  brought  from  the  Royal  Dockyards  in  England, 
and  hauled  hither  from  the  lake  by  IB  yoke  of  oxen.  It  was  destined 
for  the  Provincial  Navy- Yard  at  Penetang,  where  a  fleet  was  being 
built  for  warfare  on  the  lakes.  The  great  anchor  was  stopped  in  the 
middle  of  its  journey  by  the  declaration  of  peace  between  England  and 
the  United  States. 

At  Bradford,  a  little  farther  down  the  river,  there  is  good  trolling 
for  maskinonge,  and  there  are  some  fine  snipe  covers  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. At  Lefroy  we  get  the  first  glimpse  of  Lake  Simcoe,  a  splendid 
sheet  of  water,  80  miles  long  by  16  broad ;  and  a  little  beyond  is  Allan- 
dale  Junction,  whence  three  lines  radiate  northward — the  Muskoka 
Branch  to  Muskoka  and  Lake  Nipissing,  the  Penetang  Branch,  and 
the  CoUingwood  Branch.  Just  N.  of  Allandale  Junction  lies  the 
county  town  of  Barrie,  set  picturesquely  on  the  hillside  sloping 
down  to  the  lake.  Barrie  (population,  about  6,000;  hotel,  Queen's, 
|2)  is  a  charroing  summer  resort,  with  good  fishing  streams  in  the 
neighborhood  and  innumerable  boats  and  yachts.  Nine  miles  down 
Kempenfeldt  Bay  is  a  great  summer  hotel  at  Big  Bay  Point.  Joined 
to  Lake  Simcoe  by  a  channel  called  the  Narrows  lies  the  breezy  water 
of  Lake  Couchiching,  which,  being  interpreted,  is  the  "Lake  of 
Many  Winds."  At  the  head  of  the  lake  is  the  pretty  town  of  Orillia 
(hotels,  Orillia  House  and  Russell  House,  $1.50),  with  its  beautiful 


I 


THE   MU8KOKA   DISTRICT. 

pleasure  grounds  of  Couchiching  Park.  This  is  the  highest  region 
in  Ontario,  being  750  ft.  above  Toronto.  The  air  here  is  very  clear 
and  pure,  and  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  excellently  stocked  with 
black  bass,  pickerel,  and  salmon-trout.  At  Rama,  on  this  lake,  is 
a  settlement  of  Ojibway  Indians,  the  last  remnants  of  the  once  pow- 
erful tribe  that  peopled  the  shores  of  Lakes  Simcoe  and  Couchi- 
ching to  the  number  of  at  least  26,000.  At  Orillia  the  tourist  may, 
if  he  prefers,  take  the  steamer  14  miles  down  the  lake,  and  rejoin 
the  train  at  Washago.  Here  begins  the  splendid  fishing  stream  of 
the  Severn,  which  runs  through  deer,  duck,  and  grouse  grounds, 
through  wild  rapids,  and  over  Severn  Falls,  and  drains  the  whole 
Simcoe  region  into  Georgian  Bay.  A  short  distance  below  Washago 
the  Severn  widens  out  into  Sparrow  Lake,  famous  for  its  maskinonge 
and  black  bass,  and  its  duck  and  grouse  shooting.  A  good  canoe 
trip,  for  which  Indians  and  canoes  may  be  hired  at  Rama,  is  that 
from  Couchiching  to  Gravenhurst,  with  short  portages,  through  Beaver, 
Legs,  and  Pine  Lakes.  A  more  exciting  trip,  through  some  sharp  and 
intricate  rapids,  is  down  the  Severn  River  to  its  outlet.  Guide  and 
canoe  may  be  obtained  at  Rama  or  Orillia,  at  a  cost  of  about  $2  a  day. 

Crossing  the  river  by  a  lofty  bridge,  the  railroad  forsakes  the  pale 
limestone  formations  of  the  Simcoe  region  and  enters  a  land  of  red 
granite.  Hither  and  thither  amid  the  high  and  glistening  bluffs  of  the 
"divide"  winds  the  train,  till  at  last  through  Granite  Notch  it 
emerges  upon  the  highlands  of  Muskoka.  At  the  southernmost  ex- 
tremity cf  Lake  Muskoka,  the  largest  of  the  series,  stands  the  busy 
town  of  Gravenhurst,  112  miles  from  Toronto.  Gravenhurst  is 
very  picturesquely  situated  on  the  high  shores  of  an  inlet.  It  has 
a  population  of  about  2,000,  and  good  hotels,  the  Albion,  Windsw, 
and  Grand  Central,  at  $1  to  $2.  From  this  point,  which  may  be  re- 
garded as  the  gateway  of  the  Muskoka  region,  the  tourist  may  con- 
tinue N.  by  rail  via  Bracebridge,  the  Muskoka  River,  Huntsville,  where 
connection  is  made  with  steamers  for  the  Lake  of  Bays  district,  includ- 
ing T^Iary,  Fairy,  and  Vernon  Lake ;  to  North  Bay  and  the  Canadian 
Pacific  R.  R.  at  Lake  Nipissing ;  or  he  may  take  the  steamers  of  the 
Muskoka  Navigation  Co.,  through  Lakes  Muskoka,  Rosseau,  and  Joseph, 
and  the  Muskosh  River.  A  side  excursion  up  the  S.  branch  of  the 
Muskoka  River  to  the  Lake  of  Bays  will  enable  the  tourist  to  visit  a 
lake  which  rejoices  in  the  title  of  Kahweambetewagamog. 

From  Muskoka  wharf  the  steamers  go  to  Bala,  Bracebridge,  Beau- 


If 


THE   MU8K0KA   DISTRICT. 


da 


maris,  Port  Carling,  Windermere,  Rosseau,  Ro??c„'4  Falls,  Port  Sand- 
field,  Craigielea,  Port  Cockburn,  Juddhaven,  and  several  other  villages, 
all  of  which  are  full  of  attraction  for  sportsman  and  tourist.  One  of 
the  loveliest  of  these  is  Beaumaris,  which  has  a  large  and  excellent 
hotel  situated  on  Tondern  Island.  Immediately  opposite  is  a  group  of 
small  islands  called  the  "  Kettles,"  where  may  be  found  the  best  bass 
fishing  and  fine  trolling  for  salmon-trout.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Brace- 
bridge,  the  chief  town  of  the  Muskoka  district,  are  the  lovely  cataracts 
known  as  High  Falls  and  the  Great  South  Falls.  The  most  central  town 
on  the  lakes  is  Port  Carling,  where  all  the  steamboat  routes  converge, 
and  where  Lakes  Muskoka  and  Rosseau  are  connected  by  locks. 

Lake  Rosseau  has  an  extreme  length  of  14  miles,  and  presents  a 
great  variety  of  charming  landscape.  In  its  southern  portion  it  is  set 
thick  with  the  loveliest  of  islands.  As  many  of  these  islands  are 
inhabited,  and  the  dwellers  thereon  may  be  said  to  spend  the  most  of 
their  time  in  boats,  that  section  of  the  lake  carries  the  appellation  of 
Venetia.  Into  the  bay  near  Port  Rosseau  flows  the  mystic  and  incom- 
parable Shadow  River,  on  whose  flawless  surface  one  floats  as  if 
suspended  midway  between  two  lovely  worlds  of  summer  foliage.  On  a 
small  stream  stealing  into  Shadow  River  resounds  the  clear  tinkling  of 
the  Bridal- Veil  Falls.  A  conspicuous  landmark  on  Lake  Rosseau  is 
the  headland  of  Eagle's  Nest.  The  third  of  the  series  of  the  Muskoka 
Lakes,  Lake  Joseph,  was  till  very  lately  almost  unknown.  Now  it  is 
coming  into  repute  as  possessing  a  bolder  beauty  than  its  fellows. 
Most  tourists  will  probably  decide  that  the  difference  is  less  of  degree 
than  of  kind,  for  it  would  be  hard  to  say  which  of  the  three  waters  is  the 
fairest.  An  advantage  afforded  by  all  alike  is  that  the  tourist  here  may 
"  rough  it "  charmingly  in  tent  and  canoe,  or,  if  he  so  prefer,  enjoy  all 
the  conveniences  of  civilized  life  in  well-kept  but  unostentatious  inns. 

The  traveler  who  wishes  to  visit  the  Magnetawan  waters  and 
Parry  Sound  will  follow  the  railroad  north  to  Burks  Falls  and  there 
take  the  steamer  Wenona  down  the  Magnetawan  through  Cecebre, 
Ahmic,  and  Wahwaskesh  Lakes  to  Byng  Inlet  at  the  mouth,  and 
thence  down  the  coast  of  Georgian  Bay  through  Parry  Sound  and  the 
Archipelago  to  historic  Penetang,  where  under  the  waters  of  the 
harbor  lie  the  remains  of  four  British  gunboats.  Here  is  one  of  the 
finest  summer  resorts  and  hotels  in  Canada — "  The  Penetanguisheney 
The  first  settlement  of  the  Jesuits  in  Ontario  was  established  in  1634 
at  Penetang,  then  called  Ihonatiria,  and  in  commemoration  of  this  the 
3 


N 


ii  ' 


1,1 

It'  I 


{i 


,1 


M 


THE   MU8K0KA  DISTRICT. 


Jesuits  have  built  there  one  of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  structures  on 
the  continent.  Of  the  almost  virgin  waters  of  the  Magnetawan,  which 
one  traverses  on  this  trip,  a  writer  in  Forest  and  Farm  speaks  as 
follows: 

"  If  a  man  can  stand  outdoor  life  and  live  on  venison,  trout,  bass, 
partridges,  ducks,  pork,  tea,  and  crackers,  there  is  no  better  place  to  go 
to  in  America  that  is  ps  accessible.  A  m.an  can  go  there  in  July,  August, 
September,  or  October,  with  comfort,  if  he  will  go  in  the  right  way, 
and  shoot  deer  and  catch  trout  to  his  heart's  content.  June  to  August 
for  trout;  after  that  for  deer.  Remember  the  Magnetawan  is  as 
large  as  the  Schuylkill  at  Philadelphia  or  considerably  wider  or  deeper 
than  the  Harlem  at  High  Bridge,  and  that  the  trout  have  an  unlimited 
range  and  are  seldom  disturbed,  so  that  they  have  a  chance  to  grow. 
Deer  can  be  bagged  in  great  numbers  if  you  choose  to  do  so.  With  a 
couple  of  good  hounds  magnificent  gport  could  be  had  in  the  fall.  I 
have  shot  partridges  with  my  rifle  from  the  canoe  while  traveling,  as 
they  were  strutting  on  the  shore,  and  their  drumming  was  one  of  the 
pleasantest  every-day  sounds.  Do  not  try  to  go  without  some  guide. 
There  are  men  who  know  the  country,  and  they  should  be  secured,  for 
if  you  get  in  there  alone  you  will  have  little  sport  and  much  trouble." 

Between  Parry  Sound  and  the  mouth  of  Moon  River  lie  the  desert 
waters  of  Crane  and  Blackstone  Lakes,  favorite  haunts  of  the  maski- 
nonge.  The  capture  of  this  splendid  fish  in  these  lakes  is  thus  de- 
scribed by  a  writer  in  the  Toledo  Post : 

"  The  shores  of  Crane  and  Blackstone  Lakes  are  capital  specimens 
of  the  primitive  wilderness,  and  long  may  they  so  continue !  The  few 
who  have  visited  their  teeming  waters  have  mostly  been  genuine  fish- 
ermen who  are  happiest  when  far  away  from  conventionalities  and 
habitations.  But  one  clearing  broke  the  majestic  sweep  of  the  grand 
old  forests,  within  the  sheltered  bays  the  loons  laughed  undisturbed, 
and  the  wild  birds  splashed  in  the  marshy  edges  or  upon  the  sandy 
shores  with  none  to  molest  or  make  them  afraid. 

"  We  were  out  for  maskinonge,  and  took  no  account  of  either  black 
bass  or  pickerel.  It  seems  strange  to  talk  of  shaking  off  black  bass 
and  making  disrespectful  remarks  about  these  gamy  gentry  when  they 
insisted  in  taking  the  hook,  but  they  were  so  plenty  as  to  be  really 
troublesome. 

"  When  an  angler  goes  forth  to  catch  the  maskinonge  it  is  necessary 
to  be  careful  lest  the  maskinonge  should  catch  him.  The  native  method 
of  taking  the  maskinonge  in  the  primeval  waters  of  Canada  is  by  a 
small  clothes-line,  hauled  in  by  main  strength  when  the  fish  bites ;  but 
we  proposed  to  troll,  as  should  an  angler,  with  the  rod.  Ours  were 
split  bamboo  rods  9^  ft.  long,  quadruplex  reel,  and  braided  linen  line, 
2  ft.  of  medium-sized  copper  wire,  a  No.  4  spoon  with  double  hooks, 
and  finally  a  good  gaff. 

'*  Our  guide,  as  we  started  over  to  Crane  Lake  the  first  morning. 


i  i 


1..,., 


THE   MU8K0KA   DISTRICT. 


35 


indulged  in  sundry  smiles  and  remarked  that  we  should  break  our  rods, 
80  that,  although  placid  in  outward  mien,  I  felt  inwardly  a  little  nerv- 
ous ;  but  I  didn't  mean  to  back  down  until  compelled. 

"  Swinging  around  a  little  point,  with  some  20  yards  of  line  astern, 
before  fishing  a  great  while  I  felt  a  sudden  movement  at  the  spoon  that 
was  more  like  a  crunch  than  a  bite.  It  took  only  a  second  to  give  the 
rod  a  turn  that  fixed  the  hooks,  and  another  second  to  discover  that  I 
had  hung  something.  Scarcely  had  I  tightened  the  line  when  the  fish 
started.  I  do  not  know  that  I  wanted  to  stop  him,  but  I  felt  the  line 
slip  rapidly  from  the  reel  as  though  attached  to  a  submarine  torpedo. 
The  first  run  was  a  long  one,  but  the  line  was  longer,  and  the  fish 
stopped  before  the  reel  was  bare.  This  was  my  opportunity,  and  I 
had  the  boatman  swing  his  craft  across  the  course,  and,  reeling  in  the 
sljick  line,  I  turned  his  head  toward  the  deeper  water.  Forty-five 
minutes  of  as  pretty  a  fight  as  one  could  wish  to  see  left  my  new 
acquaintance  alongside  the  boat,  and  before  he  recovered  his  surprise 
the  gaff  was  in  his  gills  and  the  boatman  lifted  him  on  board. 

"  He  weighed  14  pounds  on  the  steelyards,  and  was  my  heaviest 
fish.  There  were  other  encounters  of  a  similar  character,  but  none 
quite  so  protracted." 

Tourists  for  the  upper  lakes  take  the  train  at  1.10  p.  m.  on  Tuesdays, 
i'aursdays,  and  Saturdays,  and  Thursdays  for  Owen  Sound  during  the 
tourist  season,  and  at  7.30  Saturday  mornings  for  Windsor  (during  July 
and  August),  where  one  of  the  C.  P.  R.'s  Clyde-built  steamers  awaits  the 
train  before  starting  for  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  and  Fort  William,  at  the  head 
of  Lake  Superior.  Here  connection  is  made  with  the  transcontinental 
train  going  to  or  coming  from  the  Pacific,  and  here  sportsmen  bound 
for  the  Nepigon  and  the  other  famous  trout-streams  north  of  Lake 
Superior  disembark.  All  these  routes  are  fully  described  in  The  Cana- 
dian Guide-Book,  Part  II,  Western  Canada. 

From  Toronto  eastward. 

From  Toronto  to  Ottawa  and  Montreal  one  has  a  liberal  choice  of 
routes.  One  may  take  the  C.  P.  R.,  by  way  of  Peterboro  and  Smith's 
Falls  to  Ottawa,  and  thence  to  Montreal  (fare,  $10).  This  is  the  direct 
route  between  Montreal  by  way  of  Ottawa.  It  runs  through  a  newer 
country  than  that  traversed  by  the  Grand  Trunk  R.,  which,  however, 
is  the  most  direct  route  between  Toronto  and  Montreal,  and  which 
skirts  the  lake  and  the  St.  Lawrence  all  the  way  to  Montreal  (fare, 
|10).  Or  a  tourist  may  travel  by  the  C.  P.  R.  to  Tweed,  and  there  take 
the  Bay  of  Quints  road  to  Kingston,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
Richelieu  Steamship  Company's  boats,  or  at  Sharbot  Lake,  on  the 


FROM   TORONTO   EASTWARD. 


C.  P.  R.,  passengers  for  Kingston  take  the  Kingston  and  Pembroke 
Railway,  running  direct  to  Kingston  (see  page  41).  The  route  wc  would 
recommend,  however,  is  that  by  water,  by  the  boats  of  the  Ontario 
and  Richelieu  Navigation  Company,  which  traverse  almost  the  whole 
length  of  Lake  Ontario,  the  fairy  landscapes  of  the  Thousand  Islands, 
and  the  famed  St.  Lawrence  rapids  (fare,  f  10,  meals  and  berths  extra). 
Arrived  at  Montreal  the  tourist  may  go  to  Ottawa  by  either  of  the 
railroads  which  connect  the  cities,  the  Canadian  Pacitic  and  the  Canada 
Atlantic,  and  return  by  boat  down  the  Ottawa  River. 

The  tourist  who  elects  to  go  to  Ottawa  by  the  C.  P.  R.  will  travel 
by  one  of  the  best-etjuipped  and  most  reliable  railroads  in  the  world. 
He  takes  the  train  at  the  Union  Station.  The  first  town  of  importance 
after  leaving  Toronto  is  Peterboro  on  the  Otonabee  River,  a  thriving 
city  of  about  10,000  inhabitants.  This  is  the  birthplace  of  the  famous 
"  Peterboro  "  or  "  Rice  Lake  "  canoe ;  and  the  tourist  who  loves  fishing 
and  canoeing  will  do  'well  to  linger  at  this  point.  The  shores  of  Rice  Lake 
have  been  made  illustrious  by  the  residence  of  three  of  those  Strick- 
lands  whose  names  are  so  well  known  in  the  world  of  letters — Colonel 
Strickland,  and  his  sisters,  Mrs.  Moodie  and  Mrs.  Traill.  The  country 
about  is  a  tangle  of  lakes  and  water-ways,  a  fisherman's  paradise,  and  it 
all  lies  at  the  feet  of  the  skillful  canoeist.  Railway  lines  center  at  Petei'- 
boro  from  half  a  dozen  directions,  and  the  Otonabee  affords  an  imniense 
water-power  which  is  utilized  by  many  mills  and  factories.  Among  the 
manufactures  of  the  city  are  lumber,  flour,  cloth,  agricultural  implements, 
machinery  and  engines,  pottery,  and  leather.  The  river  is  spanned  by 
six  bridges,  and  the  public  buildings  arc  numerous  and  handsome.  The 
best  hotels  are  the  Oriental,  Snowdon  House,  and  Grand  Central. 

For  100  miles,  between  Peterboro  and  Perth,  the  road  runs  through 
a  broken  country  rich  in  iron,  phosphate,  asbestos,  and  other  valuable 
minerals.  At  the  town  of  Tweed  we  cross  the  Moira  River,  whose 
waters  are  freighted  with  logs  from  the  lumber  regions.  At  Sharbot 
Lake,  a  famous  resort  for  sportsmen,  the  Kingston  and  Pembroke  R.  R. 
is  crossed.  Perth,  with  a  population  of  4,000,  is  a  prosperous  milling 
town,  with  rich  quarries  of  building-stone  and  phosphates  in  the  vicin- 
ity. Twelve  miles  beyond  Perth  is  Smith's  Falls  on  the  Rideau  River,  a 
junction  town  with  a  population  of  4,500.  Here  the  main  line  between 
Toronto  and  Montreal  is  crossed  by  the  line  of  the  Ottawa  and  Brock- 
ville  division,  whose  cars  we  take  at  this  point.  Thirteen  miles  farther 
on,  at  Carleton  Junction,  we  first  strike  the  main  transcontinental  line 


FROM   TORONTO    EASTWARD. 


87 


of  the  C.  P.  R.  From  Carloton  Junction  to  Ottawa  ia  a  distance  of 
28  miles.  Before  entering;  tlie  city  the  road  follows  the  S.  bank  of  the 
ini^hty  Ottawa  River,  and  the  traveler  may  look  down  from  the  car 
windows  upon  vast  stretches  of  logs  which,  enchained  in  the  long  cir- 
cuits of  the  "  booms,"  almost  hide  the  water. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  between  Toronto  and  Montreal  is  set  thick 
with  towns  and  cities  from  start  to  finish,  and  gives  one  a  good  idea  of 
the  general  j)ros|)erity  of  ('anada.  About  23  miles  from  Toronto  the 
road  skirts  a  lovely  landlocked  mere,  on  which  of  old  stood  a  village 
of  the  Senecas.  The  entrance  to  this  unruffled  water  was  so  concealed 
by  a  growtli  of  flags  and  rushes  that  none  knew  of  its  existence  save 
the  dwellers  cm  its  banks,  who  called  their  village  by  the  name  of 
Gandatsetiagon.  Here  now  stands  the  town  of  Pickering,  the  shel- 
tered mere  has  become  Pickering  Harbor,  and  the  reed-grown  entrance 
has  been  widened  and  deepened  to  admit  the  traffic  of  the  lake.  In 
the  neighborhood  of  Pickering  are  some  fair  pike  and  black-bass  waters. 
Just  beyond  Pickering  is  Wiiitl>y,  the  seat  of  the  Ontario  Ladies'  Col- 
lege, whence  a  branch  line  runs  north,  past  the  town  of  Lindsay,  to  its 
terminus  at  Haliburton.  Haliburton  stands  in  the  midst  of  an  admira- 
ble hunting  and  fishing  rejiion.  The  lakes  and  streams  around  the 
town  are  well  stocked  with  brook  trout  and  salmon  trout,  which  take 
the  fly  freely  from  the  middle  of  May  to  the  end  of  June.  Within  easy 
reach  of  Haliburton  the  hunter  will  find  deer,  bear,  moose,  and  par- 
tridge fairly  abundant,  and  guides  with  dogs  may  be  hired  in  the 
neighborhood. 

About  4  miles  east  of  Whitby  is  the  busy  manufacturing  town  of 
Oshawa,  with  good  fall  duck-shooting  in  the  neighborhood.  Here,  in 
old  days,  was  the  beginning  of  the  portage  from  Ontario  to  Scugog 
Lake ;  and  the  name  Oshawa  simply  means  the  carrying-place. 

"The  map  of  Lake  Ontario  has,  within  historic  memory,  been  over- 
written with  five  serii's  of  names  and  settlements — those  of  the  Huron- 
Algonquin  era,  those  of  the  Iroquois  domination,  those  of  the  French 
occu{)ation,  those  ol:  the  Mississaga  or  Ojibway  contjuest,  and  those  of 
the  English  occupation.  Of  the  Huron-Algonquin  period  but  slight 
trace  survives  on  Lake  Ontario  beyond  the  name  of  the  lake  itself. 
After  alternate  fmifarea  and  dugrdccs  it  had  been  rechristened  Lake 
St.  Louis  and  Lake  of  the  Iroquois,  Frontenac's  Lake  and  Lake  Cata- 
ra(pii ;  but  the  grand  old  lake  went  back  to  the  simplicity — the  ma- 
jestic simplicity — of  its  ancient  name.  Even  in  Charlevoix's  day — a 
hundred  and  sixty  years  ago — the  undisputed  name  was  once  more 
Ontario,  '  the  Great  Lake.'  " 


'ii 


v^ 


I 


1 


38 


FROM   TORONTO    EASTWARD. 


Of  the  Iroquois  domination  also  but  few  traces  remain — a  few  sono- 
reus  names  like  Niagara  and  Toronto.  The  race  of  athletes  who  lorded 
it  over  half  the  continent,  whose  alliance  was  eagerly  courted  by  France 
and  England,  were,  after  all,  unable  to  maintain  their  foothold  against 
the  despised  Ojibways.  Of  these,  the  Mississagas  became  specially 
numerous  and  aggressive,  so  that  their  totem,  the  crane,  was  a  famil- 
iar hieroglyph  on  our  foi"st  trees  from  the  beginning  of  the  last  cen- 
tury. One  of  the  oldest  of  Greek  legends  relates  the  war  of  the 
cranes  and  pygmies.  Though  the  foes  of  our  northern  cranes  were 
not  pygmies  but  giants,  they  possessed  not  the  craft  of  the  little  an- 
cients who  lived  by  the  ocean-shore.  The  Mississagas  so  multiplied 
in  their  northern  nests  that  presently,  by  mere  numbers,  they  over- 
whehned  the  Iroquois.  Most  desperate  fighting  there  was,  and  the 
battle-fields  were  still  clearly  traceable  when  English  pioneers  first 
broke  ground.  . 

The  Mississagas,  though  not  endowed  with  either  the  Mohawk  verve 
or  intellect,  were  uo  more  destitute  of  poetry  than  of  valor.  Take  the 
names  of  some  of  their  chiefs.  One  chiefs  nam?  signified  "  He  who 
makes  footsteps  in  the  sky  " ;  another  was  Wawanosh, ''  He  who  ambles 
the  waters."  The  Rev.  Peter  Jones  was,  through  his  mother,  descended 
from  a  famous  line  of  poetic  warriors ;  his  grandfather  was  Waubuno, 
"  The  Morning  Light."  On  occasion,  the  Mississaga  could  come  down 
to  prose.  Scugog  describes  the  clay  bottom  and  submerged  banks  of 
that  lake,  which,  taking  a  steamer  at  Port  Perry,  we  traverse  on  our 
summer  excursion  to  Lindsay  and  Sturgeon  Lake.  Chemong  aptly 
names  the  lake  whose  tide  of  silt  sometimes  even  retards  our  canoe 
when  wc  are  fishing  or  fowling.  Omeniee,  "  the  wild  pigeon,"  has  given 
its  name  not  only  to  Pigeon  Lake  and  its  chief  affluent,  but  to  the 
town  where  Pigeon  Creek  lingers  on  its  course  to  the  lake. 

"  On  Rice  Lake,  the  chief  Indian  settlement  is  Hiawatha,  named 
after  the  Hercules  of  Ojlbway  mythology,  whom  the  American  poet 
has  immortalized  in  his  melodious  trochaics.  At  Hiawatha  and  on 
Scugog  Island  you  may  still  find,  in  the  ordinary  language  of  the 
Ojibway,  fragments  of  fine  imagery  and  picture-talk,  often  in  the  very 
words  which  Longfellow  has  so  happily  woven  into  his  poem.  And 
the  scenery  of  this  Trent  Valley  reproduces  that  of  the  Vale  of  Tawa- 
sentha.  Here  are  'the  wild  rice  of  the  river'  and  'the  Indian  village' 
and  '  the  groves  of  singing  pine-trees — ever  sighing,  ever  singing.'  At 
Fenelon  Falls  we  have  the  '  Laughing  Water,'  and  not  far  below  is 
Sturgeon  Lake,  the  realm  of  the  '  King  of  Fishes.'  Sturgeon  of  por- 
tentous size  are  yet  met  with,  though  falling  somewhat  short  of  the 


FROM   TORONTO   EASTWARD. 


39 


coniprohensive  fish  sung  by  Longfellow,  which  swallowed  Hiawatha, 
canoe  and  all ! 

"  Among  these  forests,  too,  dwelt  once  Meggiasogwon,  that '  mighti- 
est of  magicians,'  who,  '  guarded  by  the  black  pitch-water,  sends  the 
fever  from  the  marshes.'  Our  fathers  and  grandfathers  knew  this 
magician  only  too  well ;  felt  him,  far  off,  and  shook  at  his  coming. 
They  fought  him,  not  like  Hiawatha  with  jasper-headed  arrows,  but 
with  the  woodman's  axe.  Like  the  Indian  hero,  our  pioneer  was  often 
'  wounded,  wearv  nd  desponding,  with  his  mittens  torn  and  tat- 
tered.' " —  '    M, .       ■'  Canada. 


Leaving  Oshawa,  we  pass  through  Bowmanville,  Newcastle,  New- 
tonville,  and  reach  the  important  town  of  Port  Hope  (chief  hotels, 
St.  Lawrence  Hall,  |1.60  to  $2  ;  and  Queen's,  $1.50),  picturesquely  situ- 
ated in  a  deep  ravine,  and  busy  with  a  large  lake  traffic.  There  are 
good  hotels  at  this  point,  and  within  easy  distance  are  the  waters  of 
Rice  Lake,  which  swarm  with  maskinonge,  black  bass,  and  green  basti. 
On  Rice  Lake  the  best  month  for  maskinonge  is  June ;  for  bass,  from 
July  to  September.  Seven  miles  beyond  Port  Hope  is  the  university 
town  of  Cobourg,  formerly  the  seat  of  "Victoria  College,  which  is 
now  amalgamated  with  Toronto  University.  Fortunately  for  Cobourg, 
it  is  something  more  than  a  university  town.  Cobourg  must  rely  hence- 
forth entirely  on  her  manufactures  and  her  trade,  her  car-works  and 
her  breweries.  The  next  important  point  after  leaving  Cobourg  is 
Trenton,  on  the  river  Trent.  Here  the  Grand  Trunk  is  crossed  by  the 
lines  of  the  Central  Ontario,  which  runs  down  the  beautiful  peninsula 
of  Prince  Edward  County  to  Picton.  The  Trent  River  is  the  outlet  of 
Rice  Lake,  and  empties  into  the  Bay  of  Quinte  at  its  head. 

Beyond  Trenton  lies  the  city  of  Belleville,  beautiful  in  its  sur- 
roundings and  in  its  handsome  and  shaded  streets.  Belleville  has  a 
population  of  about  12,000,  and  is  full  of  activity  and  enterprise.  Its 
chief  hotels  are  the  Quinte,  %"!;  Anglo-American,  ^l.b^i;  and  Queen^s 
Hotel,  $1.50.  It  has  fine  public  buildings,  and  is  the  seat  of  Alexandra 
College  and  of  the  Provincial  Institution  for  Deaf-Mutes.  The  city 
was  named  in  honor  of  Arabella,  wife  of  Governor  Gore.  It  stand , 
on  the  shores  of  the  exquisite  Bay  of  Quinte,  whose  waters  teem  with 
all  delights  for  the  fisherman,  and  whose  changeful  and  delicious  land- 
scapes will  long  delay  the  traveler. 

The  best  way  to  visit  Picton,  at  the  extremity  of  Prince  Edward 
Peninsula  is  by  boat  from  Belleville  down  along  the  Quinte  shores. 
This  is  a  region  of  glamour  and  romance,  away  from  the  beaten  paths 


40 


FROM  TORONTO    EASTWARD. 


of  trade.  It  is  a  land  of  waving  barley-fields,  and  of  merry  picnie  par- 
ties.  In  the  heart  of  the  peninsula  is  the  lovely  and  romantic  Lake 
of  the  Mountain,  which  occupies  the  highest  point  on  the  peninsula, 
and  ia  kept  ever  full  to  the  brim,  with  no  visible  sources  of  supply. 
Its  surface  is  on  a  level  with  that  of  far-off  Lake  Erie,  a  circumstance 
which  has  given  rise  to  many  conjectures  of  a  mysterious  communica- 
tion -between  them.  Over  the  changing  shores  and  headlands  hang 
memories  of  Huron  and  Jesuit,  Irociuois  and  Sulpician,  Mississnga  and 
loyalist  pioneer.  The  Belleville  steamer  touches  at  the  stirring  port  of 
Deseronto,  where  the  mainland  thrusts  itself  forth  into  the  bay.  Dese- 
ronto  is  a  center  of  the  flour  and  lumber  trade,  and  in  its  saw-mills  the 
logs  of  the  Trent,  Moira,  and  Napanee  Rivers  are  cut  up  intu  planks 
and  boards  and  laths  and  shingles  to  be  consumed  across  the  border. 
The  town  is  named  after  a  famous  Mohawk  chief  of  the  last  century,  a 
cpusin  of  the  great  Brant,  and  the  signification  of  the  title  is  "  Thunder 
and  Lightning."  Leaving  Deseronto  the  steamer  enters  the  magnifi- 
cent expanse  of  placid  water  known  as  the  Long  Reach.  At  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  Reach  the  high  shores  draw  together  to  form  Picton 
Bay,  at  the  head  of  which  the  town  of  Picton  (chief  hotel,  the  Boi/alj 
$1.60  to  $2)  beautifully  terminates  the  vista.  On  the  lake  ward  side  of 
the  peninsula  is  an  interesting  phenomenon  known  as  the  "  Sand- 
banks."  The  strange  scene  is  thus  described  in  Picturesque  Can- 
ada: "Lofty  ridges  of  sand,  appearing  from  a  distance  as  white  as 
snow,  were  originally  in  some  obscure  way  thrown  up  at  the  water's 
edge ;  but,  by  a  kind  of  glacier  movement,  which  proceeds  only  in  the 
winter,  they  have  now  withdrawn  from  the  shore  and  are  encroac^  ag 
on  the  adjacent  farms  at  the  rate  of  about  150  feet  a  year.  The  active 
agent  in  the  movement  appears  to  be  the  drifting  snow  which  en- 
tangles the  sand  and  carries  it  forward.  On  the  hottest  day  snow  may 
be  found  a  short  distance  down,  as  we  proved  by  repeated  trials  at  vari- 
ous points  of  the  banks.  Historically,  too.  Big  Sandy  Bay  is  most 
interesting.  It  was  on  the  cove  within,  now  callejd  West  Lake,  that  in 
1668  the  Kente  Mission  was  established." 

About  22  miles  E.  of  Belleville,  on  the  Grand  Trunk,  is  the  ancient 
town  of  Napanee.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Mississaga  word 
Navr-pati-nayy  which  signifies  "  flour."  As  bread-stuffs  are  the  staple 
of  Napanee's  trade,  the  name  is  highly  appropriate.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated on  a  strange  river,  whose  deep  and  somber  waters  are  swayed  by 
a  mysterious  tide  every  two  hours.    This  tide  represents  a  variation 


i 


KINGSTON. 


41 


of  16  Inches  in  mean  level,  and  Honiethnos  attains  a  fluctuation  of  30 
inches.  ^ 

Kingston. 

PopTilation,  25,000.  The  chief  hotels  of  Kinc^ston  are  The  Hotel 
Frontctinc,  $2  and  ^;i ;  liri/ish-Amrrlcav,  ^2  and  |:} ;  Citi/  I/nfef,  |«1.50 
and  ^1;  and  Aiif//oAiiin-lr,in.  Li  very  charjies,  $2.M  a  day  for  sinulc 
horse  and  carriai^c.  Hacks  are  to  be  hired  at  usual  rates.  The  only 
theatres  are  the  public  halls. 

The  next  town  of  importance  after  leavinj;  Napanee  is  Kingston, 
which  is  known  iis  the  "  Limestone  City,"  standing  guard  at  the  foot 
of  the  lake  where  the  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  begins  to  define 
itself.  This  gray  and  enduring  little  city,  with  its  25,000  inhabitants, 
has  a  beautiful  and  commanding  situation,  and  its  spacious  harbor  is 
fenced  by  islands  fi-om  the  stor;ns  of  Lake  Ontario. 

Where  the  olive  waters  of  the  CatanKpii  flow  into  the  blue  expanse 
of  the  bay  came  Frontenac,  greatest  of  the  (xovemors  of  New  France, 
to  establish  a  fort  and  trading  post  on  what  he  considered  "  one  of  the 
most  beaj-itiful  and  agreeable  harbors  in  the  world."  Frcntenac  nitched 
his  tents  where  now  stand  the  IVte  du  Pont  Barracks,  commanding  the 
mouth  of  the  Cataraqui.  This  was  in  July  of  Hi'TS.  The  command  of 
the  fort,  which  speedily  rose  under  the  energetic  directions  of  Frontc- 
nac,  was  assigned  to  the  illustrious  Robert  Cavalier  de  la  Salle.  The 
settlement  grew  speedily  in  wealth  and  importance,  till  La  Salle  de- 
parted to  discover  the  route  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  die  by  the 
hands  of  a  traitor  in  Texas.  Under  the  next  Governor,  M.  de  Denon- 
ville.  Fort  Frontenac  was  the  scene  of  an  act  of  treachery  on  the 
part  of  the  French  toward  the  Indians  which  brought  down  terrible 
vengeance  upon  New  France.  A  number  of  Iioquois  chiefs,  under 
pretext  of  a  conference,  were  enticed  into  the  fort,  where  they  were 
loaded  with  chains  and  then  sent  to  P'rance  to  wear  out  their  lives 
in  the  galleys.  The  retort  of  the  Irocpiois  was  the  harrying  of  the 
French  settlement,  the  capture  and  destruction  of  Fort  Frontenac,  and 
the  midnight  massacre  of  Lachine.  When  the  weakness  and  treachery 
of  De  Denonville  had  brought  New  France  to  these  straits,  Frontenac 
came  back  and  saved  the  colony,  and  rebuilt  his  favorite  fort;  and 
fifty  years  of  peace  began  theii  ■)r')oding  over  the  mouth  of  the  Cata- 
raqui. The  fort  was  captiu'ed  by  Colonel  liradstreet  in  1758.  There- 
after the  place  fell  into  forgetfulness,  from  which  it  did  not  emerge 
till  the  end  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  when  a  party  of  United  Empire 


42 


KIN08TON. 


I 


Hi 


Loyalists  clioso  the  lair  site  for  a  settlement,  and  in  their  zeal  Cata- 
rH(|ui  became  Kinjrstown,  afterward  sljortened  to  Kin^rston.  Wlien 
the  War  of  1S12  broke  out,  Kingston  came  into  prominence  aa  the 
strongest  Canadian  post  on  tiie  lake,  the  chief  rival  to  the  American 
strongliold  of  Sackett's  Harbor.  Fort  Henry  was  begnn,  and  a  for- 
iiddable  battleship,  t'  :  8t.  I.awrenee,  was  Ixiilt  in  the  Kingston  Dock- 
yard. So  hard  was  it  fnv  the  mother-country  to  realize  that  any  good 
thing  could  come  out  of  a  colony,  that  this  ship  was  built,  at  a  cost 
of  £5(K>,()0(t,  with  timbers  sent  out  from  England  for  the  j)urpose. 
At  this  period  the  town  was  surrounded  by  a  chain  of  block-houses 
connected  by  a  jjickct  stockade.  These  block-houses  subsequently 
were  supplanted  by  stone  batteries  and  nuirtello  towers,  which,  how- 
ever ineffective  they  might  be  against  modern  artillery,  nevertheless 
add  greatly  to  the  martial  air  of  Kingston  as  seen  from  the  water. 
When  Upper  Canada  was  erected  into  a  province,  Clovernor  Simcoe 
was  sworn  into  office  at  Kingston,  and  from  this  point  were  issued 
writs  for  the  convening  of  the  first  Provincial  Parliament,  which  met, 
however,  as  has  been  already  stated,  at  Niagara.  When  Upper  and 
Lower  Canada  were  united  in  1840,  Kingston  was  made  the  seat  of 
government,  and  the  Legislature  occu{)ied  the  building  now  employed 
as  the  City  Hospital.  Only  for  tour  years,  however,  was  Kingston  suf- 
fered to  enjoy  this  proud  distinction ;  and  in  1814  the  departure  of  the 
Government  and  its  officials  left  the  "  Limestone  City  "  in  a  slough  of 
commercial  and  social  despond. 

Now,  however,  Kingston  has  entered  anew  upon  an  era  of  pros- 
perity. She  is  the  outlet  for  the  traffic  of  the  Rideau  Canal,  and,  which 
is  vastly  more  important,  for  that  of  the  Kingston  and  Pembroke  R.  R., 
which  opens  up  a  district  of  immense  mineral  wealth.  She  has  become 
a  great  educational  center.  Here  is  Queen's  University,  which  has  be- 
come, under  Principal  George  M.  Grant,  one  of  the  most  successful  and 
well-conducted  institutions  of  learning  in  Canada.  Here  also  is  the 
Royal  MiUtarji  College,  the  West  Point  of  (.'anada,  where  the  cadets 
get  a  training  the  efficiency  of  which  is  well  recognized  in  twister  colonies 
and  in  the  motlier-country.  Kingston  is  also  the  seat  of  the  Royal 
College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  and  of  the  Women's  Medical 
College,  both  of  which  are  affiliated  with  Queen's  University.  The 
buildings  of  "Queen's"  are  the  chief  architectural  ornament  of  Kings- 
ton. The  individuality  of  Kingston  is  thus  effectively  described  by  a 
distinguished  Canadian  wi'iter : 


ii'i 


KINGSTON. 


48 


"Still  Kingston  contains  a  niiiitarv  look,  not  unplonsing  to  the  tour- 
ist's eyp.  Thcro  is  the  fort  crowning  the  glacis.  Full  in  front,  n 
round  tower  covers  the  landing.  At  its  base,  a  semicircular  bastion 
|)ierced  for  artillery  is  ready  to  sweep  the  water.  The  embrasures  of 
the  fort  look  askance  at  the  foundries  an<l  the  enginery  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor.  The  cannon  confronts  the  locomotive;  and,  fit 
emblem  of  our  time,  a  solitary  wardi'r  guards  the  decaying  fort,  while 
in  the  loeoniotiue-sliops  between  4(t<>  and  500  skilled  workmen  arc 
employed.  The  tower,  with  its  conical  red  cap  and  circling  wall  of 
compact  bali-proof  uuisonry,  looks  well.  It  would  have  scared  the 
Irocpiois.  It  couUI  have  defied  the  raiders  of  1812.  Against  modern 
artillery  it  is  as  good  as  an  artjiiebiw..  Hard  l)y  is  the  Military  Col- 
lege, with  its  100  or  120  red-coated,  whitehclmeted  cadets.  Where  the 
oliv(!-green  of  ('ataracpii  Creek  blends  with  the  blue  of  the  bay,  still 
stand  the  old  naval  barracks,  where  Tom  Howlivg  and  Ned  Bunting 
were  wont  to  toast  'sweethearts  and  wives.'  A  little  up  the  creek  is 
Barriefield  Common,  once  gay  with  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of 
glorious  war,  but  now  seldom  marched  over  by  anything  more  militant 
than  the  villagers'  geese.  P'rom  the  common  a  causeway,  nearly  half 
a  mile  long,  extends  across  the  creek  to  the  Tele  du  Pont  Harracks, 
the  head<iuarters  alternately  of  the  very  efficient  A  and  B  Batteries. 
Thanks  to  the  gentlemen  cadets  and  battery-men,  the  streets  of  King- 
ston still  have  a  sprinkling  of  red,  white,  and  blue." 

Six  miles  up  the  placid  windings  of  the  Cataraqui  stream  we  enter 
a  deep  gorge,  whose  rocky  banks,  almost  overhanging,  arc  richly 
clothed  with  vines.  Here  we  meet  the  foamy  rush  of  a  little  cascade ; 
and  here  is  the  entrance  to  the  Rideau  Canal,  wliose  sedgy  waters, 
the  haunt  of  innumerable  mallard  and  teal,  afford  the  canoeist  an  en- 
chanting path  through  the  Rideau  Lakes  to  Ottawa.  On  Long  Island, 
in  one  of  these  lakes,  is  erected  a  fine  building  called  the  Anglers' 
Club  Home. 

The  tourist  who  is  not  in  an  inordinate  hurry  to  reach  Montreal 
will  take  the  steamer  at  Kingston  if  he  has  come  thus  far  by  rail ;  for 
the  river  trip  between  Kingston  and  the  commercial  metropolis  of 
Canada  is  one  of  the  tnost  attractive  on  the  continent.  As  the  steamer 
rounds  Fort  Hill,  and  passes  Cedar  Island,  we  find  ourselves  fairly  in 
the  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  this  point  about  14  miles  in  width. 
If  one  wishes  to  "  do  "  the  Thousand  Islands  thoroughly,  it  is  best  to 
stop  off  at  the  village  of  Gananociue,  around  whose  shores  the  islands 
appear  to  swarm.  The  name  Gananoque  signifies  "  rocks  in  deep 
water."  The  town  stsinds  on  a  small  river  of  the  same  name,  is  well 
supplied  with  hotels,  and  has  good  maskinonge  and  black-bass  fishing 
in  its  neighborhood. 


%y 


K  ! 


44 


TIIK   THOUSAND    IHIANDS. 


The  TlioiiNniid   InIiiihIm. 


The  Thoiinand  iNlandN  aw  roallv  iiiaiiy  iiioiv  timn  a  tliiMisand  in 
nuniboi',  tliorc  hi'iiig  about  1,H()0  of  tlu'iii  h\v<n'  ami  hiimiII,  in  a  stiTtcli 
of  about  40  miles.  The  Indians  oall  (lu>  rf<iion  Manatoaiia — '•the  (lar- 
(k'n  of  the  (treat  Spirit."  The  islands  arc  all  of  that  lorinalion  which 
tlie  pfeolojiists  call  pray  gneiss.  Thnxiph  the  inniiniiMJiblc  labyrinths 
that  divide  them  the  current  of  the  preat  river  How-  with  varyinji 
rapidity.  In  some  of  the  channels  it  is  a  foaming  torrent,  while  in 
others  the  pfently-moviuf;  tide  is  as  smooth  as  a  summer  pool.  'I'lie 
iHlands  present  tlie  j^reatest  variety  of  cfVect.  Some  are  hij;h  and 
precipitous,  others  barely  lift  their  heads  above  the  lily-pals  that  encir- 
cle them.  Some  are  as  naked  as  if  their  ^^raiiite  frames  had  just  come 
from  the  primeval  fires;  others  are  topped  with  pine  and  (ir,  or  softly 
rounded  with  the  folii»ge  of  vines  and  shrublicry.  Some  aie  dotted 
with  cottages,  or  the  tents  of  campinj^  parties.  Several  of  the  islets 
are  built  up  with  fantastic  structures,  pagodas,  and  fairy  biidfi^es,  till 
they  look  as  if  they  had  just  stepped  otV  an  old  1>hu'  "  willow-pattern" 
plate.  Hither  and  thither  amon<;  them  dart  the  trim  ciaft  of  the 
canoeists,  for  here  it  is  they  most  do  oon,a;ref?ate ;  and  in  many  a 
slupgish  eddy  or  sheltered  bay  may  be  seen  the  j)unt  of  him  that  lies 
in  wait  for  maskinonpe.  The  landscape  is  like  Egypt's  incompurable 
Queen,  for  "age  can  not  wither  it  nor  custom  stale  its  infinite  variety," 
With  every  change  of  sky  and  cloud  the  scene  changes,  and  unexpected 
colors,  lisrhts,  and  shades  descend  upcm  the  isles  and  water  reaches. 

But  not  always  were  the  Thousand  Islands  such  a  region  of  enchant- 
ment, or  else  the  eyes  of  the  old  French  exjilorers  were  blinded  by  weari- 
ness after  their  struggles  with  the  fierce  rapids  farther  down  the  stream. 
In  a  report  of  an  expedition  against  the  Mohawks  in  ItHJo,  M.  de  Cour- 
celles  asserts  that  "  they  have  nothing  agreeable  beyond  their  multi- 
tude," and  that  they  "  are  only  huge  rocks  rising  out  of  the  water,  cov- 
ered merely  by  moss,  or  a  few  spruce  or  other  stunted  wood,  whose 
roots  spring  from  the  clefts  of  the  rocks,  which  can  supply  no  other 
aliment  or  moisture  to  these  barren  trees  than  what  the  rains  furnish 
them."  From  this  it  would  seem  that  the  luxuriant  vegetation  that 
now  lends  the  islands  so  nmch  of  their  charm  was  lacking  to  them  two 
centuries  ago.  It  is  certain,  however,  that  the  tourist  who  passes  has- 
tily through  the  Thousand  Islands  will  miss  their  chief  beauties,  and 
may  even  find  the  very  numbers  of  them  monotonous, 


> 


THE   THOUSAND   ISLANDS. 


46 


As  might  be  expected,  the  scenery  of  the  Thousand  Islands  is 
touched  with  the  chiirm  of  many  an  old  romance.  They  inspired  the 
song  of  Tom  Jlooro,  and  one  of  them  is  the  scene  of  Cooper's  story, 
The  Pathfinder.  Anjong  their  mazes  a  British  ship,  the  Sir  Robert 
Peel,  was  burned  in  1838  by  a  band  of  American  outlaws  under  the 
leadership  of  one  "  Bill  Johnson,"  who  aspired  to  establish  a  Canadian 
Republic.  This  romantic  desperado  was  saved  from  the  indignant 
clutches  of  the  law  by  a  picturesque  and  dauntless  girl,  his  daughter 
Kate,  who  rowed  him  from  one  hiding  place  to  another  as  each  in  suc- 
cession grew  too  hot  for  him. 

On  one  of  the  largest  of  the  islands,  known  as  Wells's  Island,  is  the 
swarming  summer  resort  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  with  its 
post-ottice,  public  buildings,  and  stores,  and  its  water-side  street  of  boat- 
houses.  This  is  the  famous  camp-meeting  ground  of  the  Methodists, 
and  here  religion  and  relaxation  are  most  alluringly  combined.  At  the 
lower  end  of  the  island  is  the  somewhat  quieter  resort  of  Westminster 
Faik,  also  under  religious  control ;  and  directly  opposite  the  island,  on 
the  American  mainland,  and  not  under  religious  control,  is  Alexandria 
Bay,  the  "  Saratoga  of  the  St.  Lawrence."  Hence,  it  may  be  seen  that 
the  Thousand  Islands  stand  in  little  need  of  the  romance  of  old,  for 
the  makers  of  romance  arc  among  them  the  summer  long,  and  turn 
out  their  enchanting  though  transitory  product  in  an  abundance  that 
beggars  reckoning.  On  a  promontory,  near  the  landing  at  Alexandria 
Bay,  stands  the  villa  known  as  Bonnie  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  late 
Dr.  J.  G.  Holland. 

After  the  steamer  emerges  from  the  clustering  isles  it  swings  up  to 
the  wharves  of  Brockville,  the  Thousand  Island  City.  Brockville  is 
the  river  terminus  of  the  Ottawa  and  Brockville  branch  of  the  C.  P.  R, 
This  beautiful  little  city,  whose  gilded  towers  and  spires  glitter  fairly 
above  the  billows  of  foliage  that  screen  its  comely  thoroughfares,  was 
named  after  the  hero  of  Queenston  Heights.  Brockville  is  supplied 
with  excellent  hotels,  such  as  the  St.  Lawrence  Hall.,  Revere  House,  and 
Central  Hotel.  In  the  river,  at  this  point,  and  in  the  neighboring  lakes 
of  Charleston  and  Ridout,  there  is  good  fishing  for  black  bass,  salmon 
trout,  pickerel,  pike,  and  maskinonge ;  and  duck,  plover,  woodcock, 
snipe,  and  partridge  are  fairly  abundant  in  the  surrounding  country. 

Twelve  miles  beyond  Brockville  stands  the  town  of  Prescott,  whence 
a  branch  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  runs  direct  to  Ottawa.  On  a  point 
of  land  about  a  mile  below  Prescott  stands  the  historic  "  Wind- 


I 


I 


4G 


THE   THOUSAND    ISLANDS. 


1^'     \ 


\ 


mill/'  a  white  stone  tower  pierced  witli  loopholes,  and  now  serving  as 
a  lighthouse.  In  November,  18:^,  the  "  Windmill "  was  the  scene  of  a 
foolish  but  pathetic  tragedy.  It  was  seized  by  a  little  band  of  self- 
styled  "  Patriots  "  under  the  loadership  of  a  Polish  exile  named  Von 
Shultz.  Heing  made  the  tool  ol"  knaves  and  adventurers  in  safe  refuge 
across  tlie  border,  Von  Shultz  was  deciived  into  the  belief  that  Can- 
ada was  groaning  under  an  intolerable  tyranny,  and  that  he  was  called 
to  deliver  her  from  the  yoke.  With  his  brave  but  lamentably  mis- 
guided followers  he  held  the  mill  for  some  days  against  the  Canadian 
forces  under  Colonel  Dundas.  During  the  fight  the  American  shore 
opposite  was  crowded  with  spectators,  \vho  lent  the  insurgents  the  safe 
and  cheap  assistance  of  their  sympathy.  Compelled  at  length  to  sur- 
render at  discretion,  the  unhappy  Von  Shultz,  with  9  others  of  the  110 
prisoners,  was  tried  by  court-martial  at  Fort  Henry  and  put  to  death 
on  the  gallows. 

Below  Prescott  the  calm  blue  reaches  of  the  liver  present  little  vari- 
ety till  the  <ialoups  Rapids  are  reached.  Here  the  awakening  water 
writhes  and  foams,  and  we  feel  a  tremor  in  the  timbers  of  our  sturdy 
craft ;  but  the  rapids  arc  not  violent,  and  merely  serve  as  a  foretaste  of 
those  to  be  encountered  farther  on.  Parallel  with  the  "  Galoups  "  runs 
a  small  canal,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  lies  the  thriving  village  of 
Cardinal.  Soon  the  spires  of  Morrisburg  rise  above  its  embowering 
trees,  and  round  a  curve  of  the  shore,  between  islands  softly  wooded 
with  white  birch,  our  steamer  sweeps  through  the  low,  green,  singing 
waves  of  the  Kapide  du  Ph^t.  Two  nnles  and  a  half  below  the  village, 
near  a  little  promontoi-y,  the  shore  is  broken  by  an  irregular  ravine. 
The  country  all  about  is  a  vision  of  peace,  of  orchards  and  quiet  home- 
steads and  meadows  deep  with  grass,  and  bits  of  woodland  spared  dis- 
creetly by  the  axe.  Yet  the  scene  is  one  of  heroic  memories,  and  every 
Canadian  heart  thrills  to  look  upon  it.  In  the  ravine,  and  on  the  up- 
lands about  it,  was  fought  the  bravely  contested  battle  of  Chrysler's 
Farm,  on  November  11,  1818.  On  the  one  side  was  the  American  in- 
vading force,  on  the  other  a  little  army  of  Canadian  volunteers  with  a 
handful  of  British  regulars.  The  issue  of  the  battle  was  long  uncer- 
tain, but  the  final  result  was  a  decisive  victory  for  the  Canadians. 


The  Rapids  of  the  8t.  Lawrence. 

From  Chrysler's  Farm  onward  we  pass  a  succession  of  pretty  vil- 
lages and  bits  of  peaceful  landscape,  till,  just  as  the  monotony  of  sweet- 


THE   KAl'IDS    OF   THE   ST.    LAWUKNCE.  4< 

ness  is  beginning  to  pall  u|)on  the  eye,  the  current  qiuekens  and  hiuli 
rocks  api)ear  along  the  shores.  We  are  entering  the  splendid  rapid  ol' 
the  liOng  Sault,  by  far  the  grandest,  if  not  the  most  exciting  rapid 
of  tlie  chain.  It  is  a  novelty  indeed  to  find  a  large  steanier  tossed  to 
and  fro  like  a  little  cockI)oat,  and  buffeted  by  huge;  billows  which  make 
ber  (juiver  from  stem  to  stern.  Other  rajtids  have  swifter  sweeps  or 
sharper  turns,  but  this  bears  away  the  palm  fmm  all  in  the  size  and 
glory  of  its  wa»'es.  The  roaring  clianncl  is  divided  by  a  somber  and 
thickly  wooded  island.  The  nortliein  passage  is  called  Lost  Channel, 
and  there  is  no  path  through  its  shouting  nibble  of  high  white  waves 
that  clamber  upon  each  other  and  seem  to  race  ui)-stream.  The  steamer 
dashes  into  the  white  and  emerald  turmoil  of  the  South  Channel,  and, 
drenched  with  spray,  plunges  with  a  galloping  moti(m  down  the  long 
incline,  till  it  rests  in  smooth  water  under  the  steep  sides  of  the  island 
of  St.  Regis. 

Boats  ascending  the  St.  Lawrence  get  around  the  Long  Sault  by 
means  of  ihe  Cornwall  Canal,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  stands  the 
busy  manufacturing  town  of  Cornwall.  At  this  point  we  pass  into  the 
province  of  Quebec,  and  at  this  point  also  the  St.  Lawrence  ceases  to 
form  the  boundary  between  Canada  and  the  United  States,  for  the  di- 
viding line  recedes  sharply  to  the  eastward.  The  shores  of  the  river 
spread  apart  to  form  Lake  St.  Francis,  with  the  little  town  of  Lancas- 
ter on  the  left  coast  and  the  settlements  of  Dundee  and  Fort  Coving- 
ton on  the  right.  In  the  distance  rises  a  blue  range  of  mountains,  the 
hills  of  Chatcauguay,  on  which  the  eye  rests  with  delight  after  the  low 
horizons  of  Ontario.  In  the  vicinity  of  those  blue  heights  lies  the  bat- 
tle-field of  Chateauguay,  where  I)e  Salaberry  and  his  handful  of 
French  Canadian  volunteers  won  a  decisive  victory  over  a  nmch  supe- 
rior force  of  American  militia.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  ihe  quaint 
French  Canadian  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac,  with  its  straggling  brown 
street,  its  long,  brown  wooden  pier,  its  old-fashioned  boats,  and  the 
gilded  spire  of  its  great  stone  church  shedding  a  glory  over  the  scene. 
Away  to  the  south  lies  cotton-spinning  Valleyficld,  at  the  head  of  the 
Beauharnois  Canal.  When  the  lake  is  fairly  left  behind,  the  shores 
grow  more  abrupt,  the  current  dips  and  begins  to  dart  and  twist ; 
and  we  plunge  through  the  rapid  of  "  The  Cedars,"  where  the  rich 
foliage  sweeps  down  to  the  flying  waters.  Then  more  quiet  reaches 
are  traversed,  and  we  come  to  the  beautiful  "  Cascades,"  where  the 
clamoring  waves  flash  high  and  thin  among  the  rocky  islets  that  break 


48 


Tin-:  KAi'iDs  OF  rnK  sr.  lawkknck. 


the  I'liannel.  Er<'  tlu*  oxi'iteinciit  of  the  (k'sceiit  lius  died  iiwiiy  wc 
c«niu>  out  on  the  broad  breast  of  Lake  St.  liOuiN,  where  tlic  St.  Lnw- 
ronce  widens  to  fiive  littin<^  reeeption  to  its  niij-hty  tributary  the  Ottawa. 
The  waters  of  this  ^roat  stream,  drawn  from  its  s(»mber  liillsof  pine  und 
fir,  are  of  n  brown  eolor  tliat  deiines  itself  sliarply  a<!;ainst  the  clearer 
and  bluer  tide  of  the  St.  Lawrenee.  Away  to  the  left  is  the  villafj;e 
«)f  St.  Anne,  made  forever  inusieal  by  the  Canadian  Hoal  Song  of  Tom 

iMoore : 

Faintly  as  lolls  llie  cvoiiiiifi  diinie, 
Onr  voii'i'H  keep  tiuie,  and  otn-  t>«is  k('(>|>  time. 
8(ii)n  as  the  wnotls  on  the  slion-  look  dim, 
We'll  sliij;  nl  St.  Anne's  oiU"  parting;  liynni. 
IJow,  brothers,  row  !  the  stream  inns  t'axt. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  (iayli^rht's  past,  1 

AVliy  should  we  yet  our  sail  unl'nrl  y 
There  is  not  a  breath  the  hlue  waves  to  curl. 
Hut  when  tlie  wind  l)lows  olT  the  slnu'e, 
Oh  !  sweetly  we'll  rest  onr  weary  oar. 
Blow,  bree/es,  lilow  !  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylijjht's  past  I 

Ottawa's  tide  !   tliis  tremiilinj;  moon 
Shall  see  us  lloat  «)'er  thy  surd's  soon. 
Saint  of  this  ijieen  isle  I  hear  onr  prayers  ; 
Oh.  p-ant  us  eool  heavens  and  favorinj,'  airs  1 
lUow.  bree/,es.  blow  !  tlu'  stream  runs  fast, 
The  rapids  are  near,  aiul  the  daylifilit's  past ! 

t)n  the  horizon  ahead  rises  a  bold,  blue  nias.s  whieh  we  reeognize  as 
"the  Mountain"  of  Montreal.  Soon  other  jturple  nuisse.s  enier<i;e  to 
keep  it  company,  the  summits  of  Mtnints  ShelTord,  Heheil,  ami  St.  John, 
and  we  reach  tiie  Indian  villaji'e  of  C'aii^liiiawa;;a,  the  home  of  the  fa- 
mous Laerosse-players.  The  steamer  slows  up  to  take  aboard  a  pilot, 
and  our  hearts  I)eat  (piieker  as  we  realize  that  tlie  gieat  rapid  of 
Lachine  is  at  hand. 

This  famous  rapid  is  less  impressive  in  its  surroundings  than  the 
Long  Sault;  it  lacks  the  absolute  beauty  of  the  chiming  and  dancing 
"  I'ascades  "  ;  but  it  is  fur  more  awe-inspiring  than  either.  It  makes 
one  catch  one's  breath  with  a  sense  of  inuuinent  peril.  The  dt'scent 
has  been  thus  vividly  described :  "  Suddenly  a  scene  of  wild  grandeur 
bursts  upon  the  eye.  Waves  are  lasheil  into  spray  and  into  breakers 
of  a  thousand  forms  by  the  submerged  rocks,  which  they  are  dasiicd 
against   in   the   headlong   impetuosity  of   the   river.      Whirlpools,   a 


OTTAWA. 


49 


atonn-lashcd  soa,  the  dinsm  below  Niagara,  all  niingle  tlieir  subliinlty 
in  a  .single  ni|)i(l.  Now  paHwiiig  witli  liglitning  Hpeed  within  a  few 
yards  of  roeks  which,  did  your  vesnol  l)iit  touch  tliem,  would  reduce 
her  to  an  utter  wreck  befori;  the  crash  c(tiild  sound  Ufion  the  ear; 
did  she  ever  diverge!  in  the  least  fi-oin  her  course — if  her  head  were 
not  kept  straight  with  the  course  of  the  rapid  she  would  be  instantly 
submerged  and  rolled  over  and  over.  I'cfnre  us  is  an  absoluti;  pnjci- 
pice  of  waters;  on  every  side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalanehea, 
are  thrown  high  into  the  air.  Kre  we  can  take  a  glance  at  the  scene, 
the  boat  descends  the  wall  of  waves  and  foam  like  a  bird,  and  in  a 
seccmd  afterward  you  are  floating  <m  the  calm,  tmruffled  bosom  of 
'b<!low  the  rapids.'" 

Presently  we  pass  the  wooded  shores  of  Nun's  Island,  and  the  stately 
city  of  Montreal  lies  before  us. 

Ottawa. 

Toward  daym't,  vvticre  tlu^  joiuTioyiuK  sun  ^rowii  old 
Ilaiif^K  lowly  westward  darker  now  than  fjoid, 
With  the  soft  siin-t,(»nch  of  the  yellowing;  hours 

Made  lovelier,  I  hw  with  dn-aininfi  eyes, 

Even  as  a  dream  out  of  a  dream,  arise 
The  hell-toiiKiied  city  with  its  j^Iorioiis  towers. 

A.  liAMI'MAN. 

Hotels. — The  chief  hotels  of  Ottawa  are  the  Ix'ussrfl,  Cecil,  Wind- 
nor  //mtsr,  and  (.iroiid  ihiioii ;  rates  from  ^2  to  $4  a  day.  The  clubs 
are  the  Ilideau  sind  West  Knd.  Chief  restaurants :  The  /lodc(/n,  (Jham- 
bcrs^s,  Qnf('n\s,  ITc/i'/rv'.s',  /htni.s\s.  Ueading-rooins:  7'h(J'<irti<inu'rttari/, 
Y.  31.  (],  yl.,  and  St.  I^ttrick^  L'ttcrnrij  and  Schnlific  Sochtji.  Theatre : 
The  Grand  Opera- /louse.  Street  cars  connect  the  city  with  towns 
across  the  river  (fare,  He.).     Population,  'ir),C)(l(). 

We  will  suppose  that  the  tourist  has  taken  the  direct  route  from 
Toronto  to  Ottawa — that  by  the  Canadian  Pacific,  already  described. 
If  he  has  gone  first  to  Montreal,  he  may  go  thence  to  Ottawa  by 
the  Canadian  Pacific,  the  ('aiuida  Atlantic,  or  6//  boat  up  the  Ottawa 
liiver.  We  should  advise  the  route  up  by  rail,  and  the  return  by 
boat.  Taking  the  Canadian  Pacific,  a  number  of  pictures<jue  places 
are  passed.  Fnun  Ste.  Therese  a  branch  line  runs  to  the  excellent 
fishing  resorts  of  Ste.  Agathe,  Labelle,  etc.  The  first  branch  of  the 
Ottawa  is  crossed  at  Ste.  Rose,  a  pleasant  summering  resort.  Ottawa, 
the  capital  of  the  federated  provinces  of  Canada,  is  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Ontario,  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Ottawa  River,  12G  miles 
4 


I 


50 


OTTAWA. 


from  its  mouth.  For  picturesque  grandeur  the  nite  of  Ottawa  is  second 
only  to  that  of  Quebec.  At  this  point  tlie  groat  river  roars  down  into 
the  terrific  caldron  of  Chandierc  Falls,  to  wiiose  vindictive  deity  the 
Indians  of  old  were  wont  to  make  propitiatory  ofFcrings  of  tobacco. 
At  this  point  also  the  Ottawa  is  joined  by  its  tributary,  the  Rideau 
River,  which  flows  in  over  a  fall  of  wonderful  grace  and  beauty.  The 
shifting,  curtain-like  folds  of  this  cascade  give  the  river  its  name  of 
Rideau,  or  the  "  Curtain." 

Like  Quebec,  Ottawa  consists  of  an  Upper  and  a  Loiver  Town.  In 
the  double  city  flows  a  double  life — the  life  of  a  rich  capital  and  the 
life  of  a  rafting  and  milling  center — the  life  of  that  society  that  clusters 
around  the  government  and  the  life  of  the  French-Canadian  lumber- 
man. Ottawa  is  not  only  the  seat  of  government  but  a  hive  of  in- 
dustry as  well.  It  is  the  city  of  laws  and  saws.  Its  Upper  Town  rings 
with  the  eloquence  of  our  legislators ;  its  Lower  with  the  shriek  of  our 
unremitting  saw-mills.  It  is  growing  as  no  mere  bureaucratic  center 
can  grow,  and  has  a  i)opulation  of  over  50,000,  where,  forty  years  ago, 
there  were  but  7,000  or  8,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  city  of  deeps  and 
heights,  of  sharp  contrasts  alike  in  its  landscapes  and  its  life ;  and  both 
are  alike  dominated  by  the  truly  splendid  pile  of  the  Parliament  Build- 
ings, which  imperially  crown  the  loftiest  point  of  the  city. 

In  the  days  of  the  "  old  regime,"  when  the  Ottawa  River  was  the 
chief  path  of  the  fur-trade,  on  which  New  France  subsisted,  the  place 
of  portage  around  the  falls  of  the  Chaudiere  had  not  even  a  wigwam  to 
mark  it  as  the  site  of  a  future  city.  It  was  a  place  of  horror  and  of 
lying-in-wait ;  for  here  the  Iroipiois  came  to  intercept  the  Algonquins 
of  the  north  country,  on  their  way  to  Quebec,  with  their  cimoe-loads  of 
peltries.  In  1693  so  closely  did  the  Iroquois  bar  the  stream  that  a 
three-years'  gathering  of  beaver-skins  was  held  up  at  MicMbnackinac 
unable  to  make  its  market ;  and  it  took  Frontcnac  himself,  the  Deus  ex 
machina  of  Xew  France,  to  break  the  dread  blockade.  Most  of  the 
romantic  history  of  Old  Canada,  however,  went  by  the  other  way,  and 
left  the  difficult  passes  of  the  Ottawa  unhaloed.  Not  till  1800  did  the 
spot  where  the  Rideau  spills  its  stream  attract  the  regard  of  pioneers. 
In  that  year  one  Philemon  Wright,  of  Woburn,  Massachusetts,  led  a 
little  colony  to  the  spot,  and  founded  a  prosperous  settlement,  which  is 
now  the  city  of  Hull,  on  the  Quebec  side  of  the  river,  immediately  op- 
posite Ottawa.  The  War  of  1812  impelled  the  Imperial  Government 
to  build  the  Rideau  Canal,  for  strategic  purposes,  and  on  the  unpromis. 


i 


:| 


'Is 


I  '  f 


5 


III  III'      -^ 

III'         - 


I'        <S 


OTTAWA. 


''•l 


inp  cliffs,  across  the  river  from  Hull,  arose  tiio  community  of  liiitf  u, 
named  for  a  colonel  of  the  Iloyal  En;.'ineers,  wlio  had  charpe  of  the 
canal  construction.  The  villajre  prew  and  became  a  town  ;  and  at  length 
the  seat  of  government,  after  having  been  made  the  shuttlecock  of 
politicians  and  bandied  between  Niagara  and  Kingston  and  Toronto 
and  (Quebec  and  Montreal,  was  planted  here  by  order  of  the  Queen,  and 
found  a  secure  abiding-place. 

The  Parliament  Buildiii^N  are  designed  in  a  modified  twelfth- 
century  Gothic,  and  are  an  admirable  combination  of  simplicity,  grace, 
and  strength.  The  material  of  which  they  are  constructed  is  a  creara- 
colored  siindstone,  whoso  richness  of  tone  grows  luider  tlie  touch  of 
time.  The  door  and  window  arches  are  of  red  Potsdam  sandstone  with 
dressings  of  Oiiio  freestone.  The  great  central  l)lock  occupies  a  stone 
terrace  with  broad,  sloping  carriage  approaches,  and  is  surmounted  by 
a  well-proportioned  tower  220  ft.  in  height.  This  building  stands  at 
the  back  of  a  spacious  scjuare,  of  which  the  eastern  and  western  blocks 
form  the  two  sides.  In  the  central  Idock  are  the  two  Houses  of  Parlia- 
ment, the  Commons  and  the  h?enate.  The  side-blocks  contain  the 
offices  of  the  various  <lepartments.  Facing  the  Parliament  square 
is  the  Langevin  block.  Hehind  the  Chambers  stands  the  beautiful 
building  of  the  I'ar/iatiicntan/  Lihmri/,  its  lofty  dome  supported 
by  Hying  buttresses  of  admirable  design.  From  a  number  of  points 
of  view  the  buildings  "compose"  in  a  way  that  gives  the  keenest 
pleasure  to  the  eye.  The  first  stone  of  the  buildings  was  laid  by  the 
Prince  of  Wales  in  180(1,  and  in  their  present  form  they  have  cost 
about  .^5,000,000.  The  beautiful  grounds  of  Parliament  Ilill,  seated 
high  above  the  river  and  conmianding  an  unrivaled  view,  are  laid  out 
in  broad  walks,  which  form  the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens. 

Ottawa  contains  other  fine  buildings  such  as  the  Fosf-Office  and 
the  great  Roman  Catholic  Cafhcilral  in  the  interesting  French  district 
of  Sussex  St,  and  its  neighborhood,  and  some  massive  and  magnifi- 
cent commercial  buildings ;  but  they  are  so  overshadowed  by  the 
noble  structures  on  Parliament  llill  that  one  is  apt  to  ignore  them. 
On  one  side  of  the  ami)le  breadth  of  Carticr  Sciuare  is  the  fine  atone 
pile  of  the  Normal  Sc/ioof,  and  not  far  off  the  enormous  red  brick 
block  of  the  BriM  S/mi 

Rideau  Hall,  the  residence  of  the  Governor-General  and  the  cen- 
ter of  the  brilliant  social  life  of  Ottawa,  stands  about  two  miles  out  of 
the  city,  on  the  road  that  leads  past  Rideau  Falls  and  through  the  suburb 


II 


1*1 


:       i- 


52 


OTTAWA. 


of  AV»/'  E<rnihnrffh.  It  is  a  most  unpretentious  and  hap-hnzard  ton- 
plonu'iation  of  [)Iastor,  hriciv,  and  stone,  but  withal  a  very  coiiifortalde 
and  lioiiii'-liko  plarc  to  live  in.  The  "  season  "  at  Ottawa  is  durinfj; 
the  winter  months,  when  Parliament  is  in  session  ;  and  then  the  ample 
grounds  of  Hideau  Hall  become  the  scene  of  such  a  typically  Canadian 
merry-making  that  one  can  hardly  realize  that  the  dispenser  of  vice- 
regal hospitalities  is  not  a  Canadian,  but  a  five-years'  visitant  from 
over  seas.  The  skating-pond  and  the  long  toboggan-slides  are  thronged 
with  Canada's  manliest  and  fairest ;  and  the  visitors  from  the  mother 
country  take  very  kindly  to  the  exhilarating  Canadian  pastimes. 

A  species  of  sununer-tobogganing,  but  vastly  more  thrilling  and  with 
a  more  pifpumt  flavor  of  novelty  and  peril,  is  the  descent  of  the  "  lumber- 
slides" — an  exi)crience  which  none  but  the  very  timorous  tourist  siiould 
omit.  The  "slides"  are  long,  flat-bottomed,  sharply-sloping  channels 
of  massive  stone-work  and  timber.  These  are  built  for  the  passage  of 
great  logs  which  have  been  hewn  scpiare  in  the  woods,  and  which 
would  be  danuiged  by  such  merciless  grinding  and  battering  as  the 
ordinary  rough  logs  are  subjected  to  in  their  plunge  o\er  the  falls. 
The  squared  logs  are  made  up,  for  the  descent,  into  "  cribs  "  of  about 
20  sticks,  exactly  fitting  the  slides.  As  these  are  but  slightly  fastened 
together,  there  is  always  the  fascinating  possibility  of  a  break-up;  and 
the  pace  of  the  descent  is  eminently  exciting.  The  experience  of  the 
slides — an  experience  through  which  all  illustrious  visitors,  such  as  the 
Trince  of  Wales,  Prince  Arthur,  the  (irand  Duke  Alexis,  and  the 
Princess  Louise  have  passed  with  dutiful  heroism — is  thus  effectively 
described  by  Mr.  F.  A.  Dixon  : 

"  Just  at  the  head  the  adventurous  voyagcurs  hurriedly  embark,  the 
cril)  being  courteously  held  back  for  a  moment  for  their  convenience. 
Under  direction  they  perch  tiiemselves  upcm  the  highest  timber  in  the 
rear,  out  of  the  way  as  far  as  possible  of  uprushing  waters,  and  the 
huge  mass  is  cleverly  steered,  l)y  the  immense  oars  which  are  used  for 
the  purpose,  toward  the  entrance  of  the  chute.  Ahead  for  a  (piarter 
of  a  mile  appears  a  narrow  channel,  down  which  a  shallow  stream  of 
water  is  constantly  rushing,  with  here  and  there  a  drop  of  some  5  or  8 
feet;  the  ladies  gather  up  their  garments,  as  the  crib,  now  beginning  to 
feel  the  euiTent,  takes  matters  into  its  own  hands  ;  with  rapidly-quicken- 
ing speed  the  unwieldy  craft  passes  under  a  bridge,  and  with  a  groan 
and  a  mighty  cracking  and  splashing  plunges,  nose  foremost,  and  tail 
high  in  the  air,  over  the  first  drop.  Now  she  is  in  the  slide  proper, 
and  the  pace  is  exhilarating ;  on  over  the  smooth  timbers  she  glides 
swiftly;  at  a  bridge  ahead   passers-by  stop,  and  waving  of  friendly 


1 


^ 


g 


I 


(I 


OTTAWA. 


53 


handkerchiefs  is  interchanged.  Now  comes  a  bigger  drop  than  the 
last,  and  tlie  water,  as  we  go  over,  surges  up  through  our  tinil»ers,  and 
a  sliower  of  spray  fulls  about  us.  A  delicate 'Oh  !' from  the  ladies 
compliments  this  cll'ort.  Never  mind  ;  a  little  wetting  was  all  in  this 
day's  iiareh.  Another  interval  of  smooth  rush,  and  again  a  drop,  and 
yet  anotlier.  Ahead,  there  is  a  gleam  of  tossed  ami  timibled  water, 
which  shows  the  end  of  the  descent ;  down  still  we  rush,  and  with  one 
last  wild  dip,  which  sends  the  water  si)urting  up  alxmt  our  feet,  we 
have  reached  the  bottom,  cleverly  caught  on  a  floating  platform  of 
wood,  called  the  '  apron,'  which  prevents  our  plunging  into  '  full  fath- 
oms live.'     We  have  '  run  the  slides.'  " 

The  most  Interesting  part  of  Lower  Town  is  crowded  about  Chau- 
dih'e  Falls,  This  is  the  lumber  region — a  city  of  deals,  but  not  such 
deals  as  are  to  be  had  in  Wall  St.  The  air  is  full  of  the  smell  of 
fresh-cut  pine  and  fir,  and  the  shop-windows  are  stocked  with  saws  and 
axes,  chains  and  pike-poles,  "  cant-dogs "  and  gigantic  leg-boots,  and 
indestructible  raiment.  Sawdust  is  the  pervading  element.  As  we 
approach  the  water  our  ears  tingle  under  the  shrieking  crescendo  and 
diminuendo  of  the  innumerable  saws.  The  mills  crowd  half-way  across 
the  river.  Every  point  of  rock  is  packed  with  structures,  and  out  from 
every  point  of  vantage  are  thrust  great  embankments  of  stone  and  tim- 
ber, on  which  more  mills  are  heaped.  Resides  the  saw-mills,  there  are 
flour-mills  and  cement-mills,  and  wool-mills  ;  and,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  cataract,  reaching  out  from  the  Hull  shore,  a  gigantic  structure 
where  matches  are  made,  and  wooden-ware.  There,  also,  are  yet  more 
mills.  The  great  river  has  been  caught  and  put  in  harness.  A  portion 
of  its  water  is  permitted  to  thunder  over  the  falls,  which  form  a  great 
semicircular  chasm  in  mid-channel,  and  are  crossed  by  a  suspension 
bridge.  The  rest  of  the  current  is  forced  to  labor  in  the  mills,  ere  it 
may  continue  its  journey  to  the  sea  ;  for  a  thousand  sluices  have  begun 

"  To  hem  his  watery  march,  and  dam  his  streams, 
And  split  his  currents." 

In  the  saw-mills  the  chaos  of  st'unge  and  strident  noises  is  inde- 
scribable, and  the  scene  is  beyond  measure  novel  and  impressive.  By 
day  in  the  yellow  gloom,  by  night  in  the  white  glare  of  the  countless 
electric  lights,  go  on  the  rending  and  the  biting  of  the  saws.  In  the 
dark,  sawdust  flecked  water  about  the  foot  of  the  dripping  slides  wal- 
low the  rough  browii  logs.  Great  chains  and  hooks  descend,  and  the 
logs  are  grabbed  and  dragged  up  the  slide  into  the  dens  where  the 
myriad  teeth  await  them.     What  are  known  as  the  updght  saws  are 


54 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 


ii   /; 


M 


I: 


set  together  to  the  number  of  two  or  three  dozen,  in  a  combination 
called  a  "gate"  whieh  keeps  (lartinij  up  and  down  in  a  terrible  and 
gigantic  dance.  Against  their  teeth  the  logs  are  driven  ;  steadily  and 
irresistibly  the  steel  bites  its  loud  way  from  end  to  end ;  and  the  logs 
pass  forth  on  the  other  side  in  the  shape  of  yellow  planks  and  boards. 
On  every  side,  and  of  all  sizes,  hum  the  circulars,  revolving  so  fast  that 
they  appear  stationary  and  can  not  show  their  teeth.  A  log  or  plank 
approaches  the  innocent-looking,  lunnining  di»<k  ;  it  touches,  and  there 
rises  a  soaring  shriek  which  may  quaver  tiirough  the  whole  gamut.  The 
timber  divides  swiftly,  as  if  it  were  some  impalpable  fabiic  of  a  dream, 
and  behind  the  saw  shoots  up  a  curving  yellow  spray  of  sawdust. 

From  Ottawa  to  Montreal. 

Every  week-day  niorning,  at  7.30,  a  steamer  of  the  Ottawa  River 
Navif^ation  Company  leaves  Ottawa  for  Montreal^  and  makes  the  run 
in  about  10  hours.  The  scenery  on  this  trip  is  strong  and  picturesque. 
The  river  rolls  its  brown  tide  between  the  stern  hills  of  the  Lauren- 
tians,  over  mad  rapids,  and  through  wide,  many-islanded  reaches.  There 
is  no  monotony  on  this  trip.  The  chief  traffic  of  the  river  is  in  lumber, 
and  we  overtake  and  pass  fleets  of  roomy  barges  piled  high  with  the 
3'ellow  deals  and  towed  by  gasping  and  laboring  steam-tugs. 

A  mile  below  Ottawa  we  run  past  the  mouth  of  a  great  liver,  the 
Oaiinaau,  This  stream,  draining  a  vast  extent  of  country,  discharges 
an  immense  volume  of  water  into  the  Ottawa;  but  the  last  7  miles  of 
its  course  are  rendered  unnavigable  by  a  succession  of  fierce  rapids. 
A  few  miles  below  the  Gatineau  is  the  nioutii  of  the  Licvn\  a  much 
smaller  stream,  yet  boasting  a  course  of  nearly  4(»0  miles.  This  is  the 
land  where  the  canoeist,  besides  all  the  sport  with  rod  and  gun  that 
his  heart  can  wish,  may  conveniently  taste  the  rapture  of  running  rap- 
ids in  his  frail  craft.  This  is  a  very  diiferent  experience  from  the 
descent  in  a  great  steamer,  which  lifts  you  so  far  above  the  waves  that 
you  fail  to  realize  all  their  fury.  Yet  another  experience  is  to  make 
the  descent  of  the  rapids  on  a  raft  of  logs,  amid  the  oaths  or  pious 
ejaculations  of  the  French  lumbermen.  The  men  surge  desperately  on 
their  long  sweeps,  but  the  unwieldy  craft  appears  to  wallow  in  utter 
helplessness  amid  the  terrific  surges ;  and  when  the  descent  has  been 
accomplished  the  traveler  wonders  how  he  came  througli  alive.  The 
life  of  the  river,  in  its  combination  of  the  homely  and  the  picturesque. 


r 

q 


OTTAAVA   TO   MONTREAL. 


55 


its  mixture  of  adventure  and  pathos,  has  been  crystallized  into  an  ex- 
quisite lyric  by  Mr.  Lanipnian  : 

BETWEEN  THE  RAPIDS. 

The  point  in  turned  ;  the  twilight  shadow  fills 

The  whcelinji  Htieani,  the  soft  receding  shore, 
And  on  our  ears  from  deep  amonf;;  the  hills 

Breaks  now  the  rapid's  sudden  quickening  roar. 
Ah  !  yet  the  same,  or  have  they  elianged  their  face, 

Tlie  fair  green  fields,  and  can  it  still  be  seen, 
The  white  log  cottage  near  the  monntainV  l)aBe, 

So  1)right  and  (juiet,  so  home-like  and  serene  ? 
Ah,  well  I  question  ;  f  ir,  as  five  years  go. 
How  nnuiy  l)lessings  fall,  and  how  much  woe  ! 

Tlie  shore,  the  fields,  the  cottage  just  the  same. 

But  how  with  them  wliose  memory  makes  them  sweet  ? 
Oh,  if  I  called  them,  hailing  name  l)y  name. 

Would  the  same  lips  the  same  old  sliouts  repeat  ? 
Have  tlie  rough  years,  so  big  with  death  and  ill, 

(ione  lightly  l)y  and  left  theui  smiling  yet  y 
Wild,  black-eyed  Jeanne  wliose  tongue  was  never  still, 

Old  wrinkled  Plcaud,  Pierre,  and  i)ale  Lisette, 
Tlie  homely  hearts  that  never  cared  to  range 
While  life's  wide  fields  were  filled  with  rusli  and  change. 

And  wliere  is  Jacques  and  where  is  Verginie  'i 

1  can  not  tell ;  the  fields  are  all  a  blur. 
The  lowing  cows,  whose  shapes  I  scarcely  see. 

Oh,  do  tliey  wait  and  do  they  call  for  lier  y 
And  is  she  changed,  or  is  hei'  heart  still  clear 

As  wind  or  morning,  light  as  river-foam  ? 
Or  have  life's  changes  borne  lier  far  from  here. 

And  far  from  rest,  and  far  from  lielp  and  liome  ? 
Ah.  comrades,  soft,  and  let  us  ivst  awhile. 
For  arms  grow  tired  with  paddling  many  a  mile. 

Blacker  and  loftier  grow  tlie  woods,  and  hark  ! 

The  freslu'iiing  roar  !    The  chute  is  near  us  now, 
And  dim  the  ciiflon  grows,  and  inky  dark 

The  water  whispering  from  tlie  birclien  prow. 
One  long  last  look,  and  many  a  sad  adieu, 

Wliile  eyes  can  see  and  lieart  can  feel  you  yet, 
I  leave  sweet  home  and  sweeter  hearts  to  you, 

A  prayer  for  I'icund,  one  for  pale  Lisette, 
A  kiss  for  Pierre,  my  little  Jacques,  and  tliee, 
A  sigh  for  Jeanne,  a  Bob  for  Verginie. 


Ill 

I 


s 


1 

• 

; 

f 

!i-  ■ 

. 

I<  '  ' 

\  '^ 

!'   ■ 

1,    ' 

I 

li 

li' 

f 


II' 


II 


66  OTTAWA   TO    MONTREAL. 

Oh,  doew  she  still  rcineinbor  y    Ih  tho  dreuin 

Now  dead,  or  Iuih  slio  found  another  mate  ? 
So  near,  so  dear  ;  and  ah,  so  swift  the  stream  1 

Kven  now  |)erhaps  it  were  not  yet  too  late. 
But  oil,  what  matter  V  for  before  the  night 

Has  reached  its  middle  we  have  far  to  go  : 
Bend  to  your  paddles,  comrades  ;  see,  the  light 

Kbl)s  otr  apace  ;  we  must  not  linger  so. 
Aye  thus  it  is  !  Heaven  gleams  and  then  is  gone. 
Once,  twice  it  smiles,  and  still  we  wander  on. 

The  next  point  of  interest  below  the  mouth  of  the  IJevre  is  the 
Ch&teau  of  Jfo)i(('bi'l/o,  the  home  of  tiie  fi'reat  French-Canadian  Pa- 
pincau.  This  man,  whom  the  stress  of  a  patriotic  struggle  misled 
into  rebellion,  was  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  elo(|uont  of  Canada's 
sons.  The  principles  ho  fought  for  have  triumphed  by  constitutional 
means,  and  his  name  is  hold  now  in  all  reverence.  The  clultoau,  in 
which  he  spent  his  days  after  his  rocall  from  exile,  is  a  pietures«|ue 
and  beautiful  structure,  embowered  in  olius  and  savoring  of  Old 
France. 

Below  Montebello  we  pass  tho  town  of  UOrignal,  and  not  far  off  is 
the  month  of  the  Juiio)i</(\  the  outlet  of  the  enchatiting  mountain-girt 
lake  of  Coiimndean.  This  water,  which  toems  with  trout,  is  best 
reached  by  a  portage  from  (J yoiviUe  (tho  next  place  at  which  the 
steamer  arrives)  to  the  river  Rougc^  which  must  l)o  ascended  in  canoes 
some  milos  to  the  Comandeau  portage.  Tho  beauty  of  the  scenery 
will  well  repay  tho  tourist  who  turns  aside  for  this  trip. 

At  Gronvillo  wo  leave  tho  steamer  and  take  the  train  for  CnriUon^ 
to  avoid  the  groat  rapids  known  as  the  Carillon^  Long  Sanlf,  and  Chute 
au  Blondcan.  Those  three  rapids  are  further  eircunivonted  by  throe 
canals,  used  chiefly  for  tho  freight  traifie.  They  wore  built  by  tho 
Imperial  Government  for  military  purposes,  for  which  it  is  to  be  hoped 
they  may  never  be  ro(iuiiou.  That  which  passes  the  Long  Sault  is 
known  as  the  Grcnviile  Canal,  and  was  excavated  for  six  miles  out  of 
what  is  mainly  solid  rook. 

The  Pass  of  the  Long  Saul/,  on  tho  western  shore,  is  to  Canadians 
holy  ground,  for  there  was  enacted  a  deed  of  heroism  than  wliicb  the 
pages  of  history  can  show  none  more  nuignitieont.  In  IGHO  tho  whole 
force  of  the  Iroquois  confederacy  bent  itself  to  the  destruction  of  the 
French  colonies  of  Villomario  and  Quebec.  Tho  doom  appeared  in- 
evitable.    IJut  there  were  heroes  of  the  ancient  type  in  New  France. 


O'lTAWA   TO   MONTREAL. 


57 


A  young  nobleman,  the  Siour  Daiilac  dcs  Ormeaux,  familiarly  known 
as  Dollard,  gathered  a  band  of  sixteen  coraiados,  who  dcvutccl  their 
lives,  with  the  most  solemn  ceremonial  of  the  Church,  to  the  task"  of 
breaking  the  attack  of  the  invaders.  They  intrenched  themselveg  at 
the  Pass  of  the  Long  Sault.  With  thcni  ■.vent  some  twoscore  Huron 
allies,  all  of  whom  but  two  chiefs  deserted  ihc'!n  when  the  enemy  ap- 
peared. Five  hundred  yelling  savages,  the  best  of  ail  Indian  warriors, 
swarmed  upon  the  frail  barricade;  and  ag;jin  and  again  they  were 
beaten  off  with  tremendous  slaughter,  till  they  drew  back  to  await  re- 
enforcements.  For  three  days  the  handful  of  heroes  held  the  post, 
sleepless,  and  parched  with  terrible  thirst;  and  when  the  last  man  of 
them  had  struck  his  last  blow,  the  Irocjiiois  had  no  more  stomach 
for  the  fight.  Their  losses  had  been  so  heavy  that  they  had  to  give 
up  all  thought  of  attacking  Villemarie,  as  Montreal  was  called ;  and 
Daulac  had  saved  New  Franco.  The  story  has  been  woven  into  a  glow- 
ing romance  by  Mrs.  Catherwood,  under  the  title  of  The  Romance  of 
DoUard. 

At  Carillon^  where  we  resume  the  steamei-,  the  Ottawa  ceases  to  be 
the  boundary-line  between  the  two  provinces,  and  from  this  point  on 
we  are  in  Quebec.  Soon  we  enter  the  Luke  of  Two  MonrJains,  an  ir- 
regular sheet  of  v/ater  from  8  to  4  miles  in  width  au'l  about  24  miles 
long.  Into  this  lake  flows  the  Riviere  d  la  Graisse,  past  the  pretty  vil- 
lage of  Rigaud.  This  neighborhood  was  the  scene  of  many  conflicts 
between  the  so-called  "  Patriots  "  and  the  Loyalists  in  the  difficulties 
of  183Y.  Near  Rigaud  rises  a  hill  called  the  Moiitayne  Stc.  Magda- 
laine.  On  the  summit  is  a  s(iuare  field  several  acres  in  extent,  wliose 
surface  is  covered  with  bowlders.  These  stones,  by  some  strange 
freak  of  Nature,  have  been  set  in  long,  orderly  lines,  so  as  to  resemble 
a  newly  plowed  tielil,  and  the  name  of  the  place  is  called  Pluic  de  Gue- 
retH.  In  this  mysterious  spot  one  can  hear  distinctly  underground  mur- 
murs as  of  flowing  wnier ;  but  the  digging  of  curious  investigators  has 
failed  to  reveal  the  cause  of  this  phenomenon.  Far  down  the  lake  is 
a  charming  summer  resort,  the  Indian  village  of  Oka.  Some  of  the 
Indians  have  been  removed  and  settled  in  a  new  domain  in  the  ^lus- 
koka  country.  There  is  now  a  monastery  of  Trappist  monks  at  Oka, 
to  which  visitors  are  admitted  and  shown  over  the  establishment. 
Of  the  two  mountains  which  give  the  lake  its  name,  the  larger  was 
called  Cahaire  by  the  pioneers  of  New  France.  On  the  summit  of 
the  steep  were  seven  chapeb,  memorials  of  the  mystic  seven  of  St. 


I      :i 
t 


f 


I 


Is 


J 


I 


68 


OTTAWA   TO   MONTRKAL. 


John's  vision  ;  and  liither,  on  many  a  pious  |)ilgriuiage,  came  the  people 
of  Villcmario,  takinuf  thoir  lives  in  thoif  hands  when  they  quitted  the 
shelter  of  their  palisades.  Below  flic  Lake  of  Two  Mountains  is  the 
villaf^e  of  Sh:  An)ie,  whieh  we  saw  in  our  deseent  of  tlie  Ht.  Lawrence, 
and  ill  the  ((luiintly  dressed  crowd  that  gathers  on  the  wharf  we  see  an 
epitome  of  the  pietureaijueness  of  the  hahitnnts,  as  the  French  (Cana- 
dian country  folks  are  called.  At  tliis  point  the  Ottawa  splits  his 
mighty  current  into  three  streams,  the  largest  of  which  heljjs  furnish 
the  expanse  of  iMke  St.  Louis,  while  the  two  sniiiller  flow  north  of 
/.((val  and  Moidiual  hlainfs.  At  St.  Ainie  the  steamer  enters  a  short 
canal  of  one  htck  to  avoid  a  dangerous  rapid.  Here  the  (.'anadian  J'a- 
cilic  and  (Irand  Trunk  cross  on  to  Afoiift'ct'  Island  hy  splendid  and 
massive  viaducts  under  which  the  steamer  passes  with  lowered  funnel. 
On  a  point  of  the  island,  a  little  l)eyoiid,  we  note  the  ruins  of  a  oastle 
built  after  a  iiiediieval  pattern  as  a  defense  against  the  Ir()((uois.  There 
arc  two  such  castles  standing  close  together,  with  a  circular  tower  (m 
the  hill-tops  watching  over  li'eir  approaches.  Within  the  high  walls 
of  the  castles  was  space  enough  to  shelter  all  the  women  and  children 
of  the  ancient  settlement. 

At  the  drows)  and  picturescpie  old  town  of  Lach'nie,  H\  miles  from 
Montreal,  is  the  head  of  the  canal  by  which  the  Lach'inc  Rapids  are 
avoided  on  the  upward  trip.  Before  the  canal  was  built,  Lachine  was 
a  place  of  great  eommereial  importance ;  now  it  is  chiefly  a  place  of 
summer  residence  for  citizens  of  Montreal.  Its  steej)  gables  and  old- 
fashioned  dormer-windows  nestle  amid  the  green  of  ancient  troct;.  All 
its  neighliorhood  is  historic  grouiul,  but  th;'  memories  that  cluster  most 
thickly  about  it  are  those  of  the  great  La  Salle.  Its  site  was  granted 
by  the  Sulpician  Fathers  to  La  Salle  that  he  might  establish  there  a 
fortilied  outpost  for  the  more  eifective  defense  of  the  city.  La  Salle 
named  his  settlement  La  Chine,  thus  embalming  his  dominant  idea  of 
a  passage  across  the  contiuent  to  the  Indies  and  Cathay.  La  Salle 
soon  left  it  to  fop  i.v  his  adventure.',  but  the  settlement  continued  to 
flourish  till  the  dis-adfiil  massacre  o!  iOS9,  whieh  we  referred  to  in  our 
account  ()('  Kiiigstoii.  The  cause  which  led  to  this  catastrophe  has  been 
already  related ;  the  catastrophe  itself  has  thus  been  described  by  a 
Canadian  writer,  Mr.  C.  V.  Roger<: 

"  Xearly  two  centuries  ago,  on  the  night  of  August  T),  16S9,  as  the 
inhabitants  of  Liicliine  lay  sleeping,  a.uid  a  storm  of  hail  upon  the 
lake,  wliich  etfectually  disguised  the  noise  of  their  landing,  a  force  of 


Oi 


I 


'     ! 


PROVFNCK   OF    QUKBEC. 


59 


many  liundrod  warriors,  aniiod  and  bcwinoared  with  war-paint,  made  a 
descent  upon  Luchine.  Tln()ii;i;li  the  nif^ht  tliey  noiselessly  surrounded 
every  buildinji  in  tlie  viilaiie.  With  dawn  the  fearful  war-whoop 
awoke  men,  women,  and  ehildren  to  their  doom  of  torture  and  death. 
Tiu'  village  was  tired  ;  l»y  its  lif^ht,  in  tlie  early  morn,  the  horror-strieken 
iniial)itauts  of  Montreal  could  see  from  their  foi'tifications  the  nameless 
cruelties  which  preceded  the  massacre.  It  is  said  the  Irocpiois  indidged 
so  freely  in  the  fire-water  of  tlie  Lachine  merchants  that,  had  the  de- 
fenders of  Villemarie  been  prompt  to  seize  the  favorable  moment,  the 
drunken  wretches  mij^ht  have  been  slaufjhtprcd  like  swine.  Paralyzed 
by  the  horrors  they  had  witnessed,  the  French  let  the  occasion  slip. 
At  niifhtfall  the  sava^ies  witluh-ew  to  the  mainland,  not,  however,  with- 
out siijnifyinu  by  yells — repeated  to  the  number  of  ninety — how  many 
prisoners  they  carried  away.  From  the  ramparts  of  Villemarie  and 
amid  tiie  blackened  ruins  of  Lucliine  the  f^arrison  watched  the  fires  on 
the  opposite  shore,  kindled  for  what  purjjoses  of  nameless  cruelty  they 
knew  too  well.  The  fate  of  Lachine  marks  the  lowest  point  in  the 
fortunes  of  Xi'W  Fiance;  by  what  deeds  of  heroism  they  were  retrieved 
is  not  the  least  j^lorious  pa<^e  in  (*anadian  history." 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


Quebec,  the  senior  province  of  the  Canadian  confoderaticm,  occu- 
pies the  f!;i'eater  portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley.  It  has  an  ex- 
treme lcn}>th,  E.  and  W.,  of  1,(M)0  miles,  and  a  great  diversity  of 
scenery  and  resources.  For  a  long  time  it  monopolized  the  name  of 
Canada ;  and  for  a  far  longer  period  its  history  was  practically  the 
whole  of  Canadian  history,  save  for  what  was  icing  enacted  in  the 
narrower  sphere  of  the  Acadian  Peninsula.  The  following  extremely 
condensed  abstract  of  the  history  of  the  province  is  taken  from  Dr. 
Stewart's  article  on  Quebec  in  the  Encyclopiedia  Britannica; 

"  Quebec  was  first  visited  by  the  French,  under  Jacques  Cartier,  in 
1535,  and  a  second  time  in  15?)G,  though  it  is  said  that  Sebastian 
('abot  discovered  the  country  in  1497.  The  regular  settlement  of  the 
province,  however,  was  not  made  until  1608,  when  Samuel  dc  Champ- 
lain  lauded  at  the  site  now  occupied  by  Quebec  City.  Here  he  estab- 
lished military  and  trading  jjosts,  and  it  was  not  long  before  the  new 
possession  became  the  seat  of  the  Jesuit  and  Recollet  missions,  which 
were  zealously  carried  on  under  the  most  trying  circumstances  for 
nearly  a  century  and  a  half.  The  early  settlers  endured  countless 
hardships  from  the  incursions  of  the  Indians,  and  the  frequent  wars 
in  which  they  were  forced  to  engage  with  the  English  and  Dutch.    In 


i 


I 


60 


PROVINCE   OF   QUEBEC. 


if 


175y  the  Marqiiirt  of  MoiUcalin  was  defeated  at  (iuchcc  by  an  En(:rlish 
array  iindor  GencMal  Wolfe.  A  year  later  the  Fronclt  aurrcudert'd  all 
tlielr  liiit'ortaiit  posts,  nnd  tlie  colony  passed  tmdct-  Miiglish  rule.  In 
17H3  tl>e  Treaty  of  I'aris  was  siiTMed,  by  the  terms  of  which,  and  the 
conditions  laid  down  a  few  years  later  in  tlio  nieinonible  (inebee  Act 
of  1771,  the  French  werr  guaranteed  by  England  their  laws,  language, 
and  religion.  In  171H  tiie  colony  was  divided  into  Upper  and  Lower 
Ciinada  ;  but  hi  1841,  after  a  series  of  internal  dissensions,  inclnding 
the  rebellion  of  1837,  and  several  political  (piarrcjls.  the  country  was 
again  united.  In  18t)7  the  piM\inces  of  Old  Canada,  under  the  names 
of  Ontario  and  Quebec,  were  erected,  with  New  Brunswick  and  Nova 
Scotia,  into  the  Dominion  of  Canadit." 

Under  the  indulgent  pioteclion  of  Flngland,  Quebec  has  grown  and 
prospered,  and  developed  a  civilization  unicpie  in  the  modern  worhl. 
The  province  is  in  many  respects  a  piece  of  Old  France.  In  its  re- 
ligioiis  homogeneity  it  is  almost  niediicval ;  and  along  with  this  goes  a 
conservatism,  as  far  as  custom  and  tradition  are  cimcerned,  which  gives 
the  life  of  the  luihitdnt  a  marked  individuality  and  local  color.  At  the 
same  time  the  French  Canadian  has  grown  up  under  the  responsibility 
of  sclf-govcniuent  and  Hiitish  institutions,  to  which  he  very  readily 
adapted  V<;ni~eif,  and  which  have  given  Inm  a  certain  political  alertness. 
Vividly  coi.scious  of  his  ])ower  in  the  confederation,  he  is  not  at  all  ditti- 
deut  in  t)ie  exercise  t)f  it ;  but,  underlying  a  good  deal  of  self-assertive 
glorificai  ion  of  the  illustrious  race  from  which  he  is  si)rung,  there  is  a 
sound  loyalty  not  only  to  the  Hag  under  whose  shelter  he  has  so  pros- 
pered, but  also  to  the  young  federation  in  which  lie  i)lays  so  important 
a  part. 

To  the  roniuncer  and  the  student  of  character,  the  province  of 
Quebec  ofl'ers  a  'ield  of  almost  unparalleled  richness,  which  has  as  yet 
been  but  little  worked.  To  the  lover  of  oittdoor  sports  it  offers  abnost 
virgin  woods  ai.d  waters  of  iinliudtcd  possil)ilities.  To  the  idle  tourist, 
who  is  so  unfortiinatc  as  not  to  be  preoccupied  by  any  hobby,  it  offers 
the  attraction  of  novel  scenes,  unfamiliai'  customs,  fresh  experiences, 
and  an  invigorating  climate. 

JAC(irES  CAUTIEK. 

No  llanie  of  war  was  ho,  no  flower  of  grace. 

No  star  of  wis-dom  ;  but  a  plain,  bold  man, 

More  careful  of  the  end  than  of  the  plan. 
No  mystery  was  he  afraid  to  face  ; 


MONTREAL. 


fil 


ail  En^rlisli 
cndcred  all 
h  rule.  In 
I'll,  and  the 
^iuL'bei'  Act 
S  liinj,'iiago, 

and  Lower 
s,  includin<; 
ountry  waa 
■  the  names 
i  and  Nova 

prown  and 
dern  world. 
In  its  re- 
thi.s  fioes  a 
which  gives 
or.  At  the 
sponsibility 
cry  readily 
1  alertness. 
;  at  all  diffi- 
If-assertive 
,  there  is  a 
as  so  pros- 
>  important 

rovlnce  of 
has  as  yet 
ers  almost 
die  tourist, 
y,  it  offers 
xperiences, 


No  Havngc  Ktrntcny,  no  fnrioiiH  Htorin, 
No  Htiiiy;H  of  (Hiiiutc.  no  imtlionjjlit  iliHcaHO, 
Ilin  muster  |)iii'|M))-f'  svoiild  not  ln'iid  to  thcHt", 

But  faw,  tlir()iii;li  all,  ailiicvt'iiicufH  lowcrinn  form. 

lie  first  hc'lu'ld  the  gloomy  Hai;"oiiuy, 

And  Stadacona'H  Iiiirli,  forbiddhiy  brow  ; 
Ills  vi'ntiiroitH  vision,  too,  did  (IrHt  Kurvoy 

Fair  Ilocliehma,  hut  not  fair  as  now. 
St.  Alalolioldn  Ills  (lust     h.'  world  his  fame, 
Bat  his  stronir,  il.uinti     ■-  soul  "tis  ours  to  claim. 

Matthew  Hkiiky  Knioht. 


M' 


ril. 


Hotels,  etc. — The  leadinjr  hotels  are  the  Windsor,  on  Dominion  Sq. ; 
the  Oinadiun  Pucific  Vhjci'  iS(/inirc  floftl,  on  the  east  end  of  the  square  ; 
St.  Laurence  JInll,  on  Ht.  James  St.;  the  liahnoral,  on  .Notre  Dame  St., 
West ;  the  Qiavn's,  cor.  St.  James  and  Windsor  Sts. ;  and  the  /uche/icu 
Hotel,  on  Jac((ues  Cartier  S(|.,  the  latter  the  favorite  French  hostelry. 

Modes  of  Convejidiice. — Klectric  street  cars  traverse  the  city  in 
every  direction,  and  afford  easy  access  to  ])rincii)al  points.  ('arriap;es 
wait  at  the  depots  and  steamboat-landings,  and  at  various  stands  in 
the  city.     Their  chai'<;cs  are  : 

One-horse  Vehieles, — One  or  two  persons,  15  minutes,  25  cents;  ;^0 
minutes,  40  cents;  the  Krst  hour,  75  ceiits,  and  tU)  cents  for  every  sub- 
se(juent  hour.  Three  or  four  persons,  40  cents  for  15  minutes,  60 
cents  for  80  minutes;  ij?!  for  the  first  hour,  and  75  cents  for  every 
subsecpient  hour. 

Two-horse  Vehicles. — One  or  two  persons,  50  cents  for  15  minutes; 
65  cents  for  550  minutes,  and  '*<  1  per  hour.  For  three  or  four  persons, 
65  cents  for  15  minutes,  75  cisnts  for  8(>  minutes,  and  *>1.25  per  hour. 

Clubs. — Metropolitan,  on  Beaver  Hall  Hill;  St.  James,  on  Dorches- 
ter St. ;  and  Montreal. 

From  Windsor  St<dlon  the  ('.  P.  K.  express  trains  leave  for  New 
York,  Uoston,  Toronto,  Sherbrooke,  St.  John,  \.  M.,  Halifax,  Ottawa, 
Detroit,  Chicajio,  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  St.  Paul,  Minneajjolis,  etc.,  Winnipeg, 
and  Vancouver.  From  Vi(/(  r  JSi/iiare  Shilion  the  C.  P.  R.  trains  leave 
for  Ottawa,  Ste.  Agathe,  and  Quebt'C.  Sul)urban  trains  leave  from  both 
stations.  The  trains  of  the  («.  T.  H.  all  leave  from  the  Bonaventtirc 
Depot ;  as  do  also  the  trains  for  Ottawa  boat  at  Lachine.  Steamers 
running  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Qiu-bec  and  intermediate  points,  as 
well  as  for  Toront(>  and  the  Lakes,  leave  from  wharves  of  tlie  Riche- 
lieu and  Ontario  Navigation  Co. 

Trains  leave  .Montreal  at  5  p.  m.  to  ctmnect  at  Lachine  with  boats 
about  to  run  the  rapids.     Round  trip,  50  cents. 

Population,  with  suburbs,  800,000. 

Montreal  is  a  microcosm  of  Canada.  Here  is  the  Old  Canada  side 
by  side  with  the  New ;  here  French  Canada  and  English  Canada  come 


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MONTREAL. 


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into  close  and  perpetual  contact,  and  yet  maintain  their  individuality. 
She  stands  between  French  Quebec,  1*72  miles  east,  and  English  To- 
ronto, 338  miles  west.  With  a  quailer  of  h  million  inhabitants,  an  un- 
rivaled site  at  the  head  of  ocean  navigation,  yet  in  the  heart  of  the 
continent,  with  enormous  wealth,  and  with  all  the  resources  of  the 
Northwest  seeking  an  outlet  through  her  i)ort,  Montreal  is  the  com- 
mercial metropolis  of  Canada,  and  a  city  with  the  securest  possible 
future.  She  has  a  past  also,  heroic,  romantic,  and  brilliant  beyond  that 
of  most  cities  of  this  New  World,  and  a  present  in  which  all  Canada 
takes  just  pride.  To  Montreal  the  trade  of  the  Northwest  has  been 
tributary  from  its  beginning.  First,  it  was  the  fur-trade,  whose  mer- 
chant-princes, building  their  homes  on  Beaver  Hall  Hill,  gave  Canada 
its  fit  emblem,  the  wise  and  capable  beaver.  Then  came  the  lumber, 
grain,  and  cattle  trades,  all  pouring  their  wealth  into  the  city's  lap ; 
and  now  the  great  transcontinental  railway,  the  Canadian  Pacific,  with 
its  headquarters  at  Montreal,  reaches  out  for  the  trade  of  "  the  gor- 
geous East,"  and  realizes  the  dream  of  La  Salle  and  those  old  explorers 
who  shattered  their  forces  in  the  effort  to  find  a  route  to  Cathay. 

The  city  takes  her  name  from  the  mountain  which  stands  guard 
over  her.  The  peculiar  form  of  the  name,  "  Mont  Real,"  seems  to  point 
to  Portuguese  influences  somewhere  in  the  dawn  of  her  history.  Tn 
a  succession  of  terraces  the  streets  climb  the  mountain,  all  the  summit 
of  which  is  reserved  to  the  citizens  as  a  matchless  park.  Business  has 
gradually  worked  itself  back,  street  by  street,  from  the  water-front,  till 
now  the  once  aristocratic  exclusion  of  St.  Catherine  St.  is  a  main  artery 
of  trade. 

MONTREAL  IN  HISTORY. 

In  spite  of  the  strongly  differentiated  elements  of  which  Jlontreal's 
population  is  composed — English  Protestant  and  French  Roman  Catho- 
lic— race  and  religious  antagonisms  ai-e  kept  subdued  by  much  mutual 
good-will  and  forbearance.  For  some  time  after  the  conquest,  Protes- 
tants were  allowed  the  use  of  a  Roman  church  after  the  morning  mass. 
Every  Sunday  afternoon,  from'  116&  to  1786,  a  Clinroh  of  England  con- 
gregation occupied  the  Church  of  the  Recollets.  The  same  privilege 
was  afterward  extended  to  the  Presbyterians,  np  to  1792,  when  that 
denomination  moved  to  a  church  of  its  own.  At  this  time  this  exceed- 
ingly Protestant  congregation,  to  show  its  good-will  und  sense  of  grati- 
tude, made  a  parting  gift  to  the  Recollct  priests,  in  the  shape  of  candles 
for  the  high  altar  and  wine  for  the  mass.    A  few  years  ago  the  pictur- 


MONTREAL. 


63 


esque  and  historic  Bonsecours  Churcli  was  about  to  be  torn  down  to 
make  room  for  a  railway  station ;  but  a  few  Protestants,  holding  in 
honor  the  associations  of  the  building  and  the  memory  of  the  de- 
voted Sister  who  founded  it,  made  a  strong  protest,  and  roused  the 
bishop  to  forbid  the  sale. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1535  that  Jacques  Cartier,  with  a  forty- 
ton  galleon  and  two  open  boats,  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  seek 
the  city  Hochelaga,  of  which  the  Indians  had  told  him  at  Quebec.  On 
the  2d  of  October  they  reached  the  landing-place  of  Hochelaga,  where 
hundreds  of  Indians  crowded  about  them  in  eager  delight,  and  wel- 
comed them  with  gifts  of  fish  and  maize.  The  Indian  city  lay  some 
way  back  from  the  water,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Around  it 
rustled  fruitful  corn-fields,  and  around  the  corn-fields  rose  the  black 
masses  of  the  ancient  woods.  The  town  was  fenced  with  a  triple  row 
of  heavy  palisades  formed  of  the  trunks  of  trees.  In  the  center  of 
the  town  was  an  open  square,  wherein  Cartier  was  received  as  a  demi- 
god, and  besought  to  heal  the  sick  with  his  touch.  This  he  could  not 
do,  but  he  could  bestow  gifts,  which  is  a  semi-divine  function ;  and 
after  this  ceremony  he  ascended  the  mountain,  followed  by  a  troop  of 
adoring  natives.  When  the  full  magnificence  of  this  unrivaled  land- 
scape unfolded  itself  before  him,  he  very  fittingly  gave  the  Mount  the 
name  of  Royal.  Not  till  seventy  years  after  Oartier's  visit  did  Euro- 
pean eyes  again  behold  the  site  of  Montreal.  Then  Champlain  under- 
took the  work  that  Cartier  had  begun.  But  he  found  no  town  of 
Hochelaga.  There  had  been  war  among  the  tribes,  the  maize-fields 
had  been  laid  waste,  and  the  city  wiped  out  by  fire.  The  story  of  its 
destruction  was  detailed  to  Champlain  by  two  old  Indians  who  guided 
him  up  the  mountain.  The  tale  is  a  romantic  one,  and  tells  how 
"  Hurons  and  Senecas  lived  in  peace  and  friendship  together  at  Hoche- 
laga  for  many  generations.  They  intermarried  and  had  no  cause  for 
quarrel,  till,  for  some  reason,  a  Seneca  chief  refused  his  son  permission 
to  marry  a  Seneca  maiden.  Enraged  at  the  action  of  the  stern  parent, 
the  lady  refused  all  offers  of  marriage,  and  declared  she  would  only 
wed  the  warrior  who  should  slay  the  chief  who  had  interfered  with 
her  happiness.  A  young  Wyandot,  smitten  by  her  charms,  attacked 
and  killed  the  old  chief  and  received  the  coveted  reward.  The  Senecas, 
however,  adopted  the  cause  of  their  chief,  and  a  terrible  fratricidal  war 
spread  desolation  throughout  the  Huron  country,  nor  did  it  cease  till  the 
Iroquois  had  completely  broken  up  and  almost  exterminated  the  Hurons." 


r 


64 


MONTREAL. 


y 


In  1611,  having  founded  Quebec,  Champlain  selected  the  site  for  a 
trading-post  at  Montreal.  It  was  on  a  small  stream  which  enters  the 
St.  Lawrence  where  the  Custom-House  now  stands.  He  called  the  spot 
Place  Royale.  Though  coming  after  Cartior,  Champlain  is  rightly 
called  the  father  of  Canada.  Parkman  says  of  him :  "  Of  the  pioneers 
of  the  North  American  forests,  his  name  stands  foremost  on  the  list. 
It  was  he  who  struck  the  deepest  and  foremost  stroke  into  the  heart 
of  their  pristine  barbarism.  At  Chantilly,  at  Fontainebleau,  at  Paris, 
in  the  cabinets  of  princes  and  of  royalty  itself,  mingling  with  the 
proud  vanities  of  the  court ;  then  lost  from  sight  in  the  depths  of 
Canada,  the  companion  of  savages,  sharer  of  their  toils,  privations,  and 
battles,  more  hardy,  patient,  and  bold  than  they ;  such,  for  successive 
years,  were  the  alternations  of  this  man's  life." 

On  the  14th  of  October,  1641,  Montreal  was  founded  by  Maison- 
neuve,  for  the  Company  of  Montreal,  who  had  obtained  a  cession  of 
the  whole  island.  In  the  following  spring  the  city  was  consecrated, 
under  the  name  of  Ville-Marie.  With  the  expedition  of  city  builders, 
numbering  57,  went  one  Mile.  Jeanne  Mance,  of  unfading  memory, 
carrying  with  her,  to  assist  in  the  founding  of  the  city,  a  sum  that 
would  be  equivalent  now  to  a  round  quarter  of  a  million.  This  was  the 
donation  of  a  wealthy  widow  in  France,  Madame  de  Bouillon.  Not  till 
1643  did  the  Iroquois  learn  of  this  new  settlement;  but  then,  and  for 
half  a  century  thereafter,  the  city  found  itself  engaged  in  an  almost  in- 
cessant struggle  for  its  existence.  On  what  is  now  known  as  the  Place 
d'Armes,  Maisonnouve  had  a  hand-to-hand  contest  with  the  savages.  All 
through  this  terrible  half-century  of  trial  the  garrison  of  Ville-Marie 
consisted  of  never  more  than  50  men.  In  1663  the  rights  of  the  Com- 
pany of  Montreal  were  purchased  by  the  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  which 
still  holds  certain  seignorial  rights  over  the  island.  In  1665  the  Mar- 
quis de  Tracy  arrived  on  the  scene  with  a  portion  of  the  famous 
Carignan  Regiment,  and  broke  the  power  of  the  M^'vawks.  By  16*72 
the  population  of  the  city  had  increased  to  1,520,  suburbs  began 

to  appear  outside  the  walls.  But,  though  the  iiiuwawks  had  been 
crushed,  war  was  still  the  heritage  of  this  city,  whose  foundation  had 
been  under  the  auspices  of  a  religion  of  peace.  In  1690  a  little  army 
of  200  French  and  Indians  made  an  expedition  from  Montreal  on  snow- 
shoes  southward  through  the  wilderness,  and  laid  waste  with  fire  and 
sword  the  Dutch  settlement  at  Schenectady.  The  retort  of  the  English 
polonies  was  an  expedition  in  force  under  Governor  Winthrop  and  Major 


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65 


Schuyler,  which  advanced  on  Montreal  by  way  of  Lake  Champlain, 
while  a  fleet  under  Sir  William  Phippa  was  sent  against  Quebec.  But 
in  those  days  the  star  of  New  France  was  in  the  ascendant,  and  both 
forces  were  triumphantly  repulsed. 

After  the  victory  of  Wolfe  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  Montreal  was 
the  spot  in  which  the  power  of  France  in  America  made  its  last  stand. 
About  its  walls  the  armies  of  England  closed  in  swiftly  and  surely. 
When  they  met,  there  was  nothing  for  Montreal  to  do  but  capitulate. 

During  the  American  War  of  Independence  Colonel  Ethan  Allen, 
with  200  of  his  "Green  Mountain  Boys,"  advanced  to  the  attack  of 
Montreal,  but  was  defeated  and  taken  prisoner  by  Governor  Carleton. 
Later  came  Montgomery,  and  forced  the  city  to  capitulate.  Montreal 
was  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  the  Continental  Congress,  and 
Benjamin  Franklin  came  north  and  endeavored  to  persuade  the  Cana- 
dians to  join  in  the  rebellion.  In  this  attempt  he  failed  signally ;  but 
he  left  behind  him  a  memorial  of  his  presence  by  establishing  a  news- 
paper. This  journal,  the  Gazette,  which  enjoys  to  this  day  a  pros- 
perous existence,  is  now  marked  by  a  sturdy  loyalty  which  belies  the 
circumstances  of  its  foundation.  In  the  spring  of  1111,  after  the  de- 
feat and  death  of  Montgomery  at  Quebec,  the  American  forces  evacu- 
ated Montreal ;  and  never  since  have  her  streets  known  the  tread  of 
hostile  feet. 

A  quaint  episode  in  the  early  history  of  Montreal  is  connected  with 
the  Carignan  Regiment  already  mentioned.  These  veterans,  when  their 
time  had  expired,  were  disbanded  and  settled  in  Canada.  In  embrac- 
ing a  farmer's  life  they  found  themselves  in  need  of  many  things  no 
formerly  deemed  essential.  Above  all,  they  needed  wives — for  what  is 
a  fai'mer  without  the  farmer's  wife  ?  A  lot  of  girls  were  thereupon 
selected  in  France  and  shipped  to  Canada  to  supply  this  long-felt 
want.  Baron  La  Ilontan  has  left  us  an  amusing  account  of  the  con- 
signment of  prospective  brides  which  were  sent  out  in  1684  :  "  After 
the  reduction  of  these  troops  many  vessels  loaded  with  girls  were  sent 
out  under  the  direction  of  some  old  beginners,  who  divided  them  into 
three  classes.  These  damsels  were,  so  to  speak,  piled  up,  the  one  on 
the  other,  in  three  different  chambers,  where  the  husbands  chose  their 
wives,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  butcher  goes  to  choose  his  sheep  in 
the  midst  of  the  flock.  There  was  material  to  content  the  fantastical 
in  the  diversity  of  girls  in  these  three  seraglios — for  there  were  to  be 
seen  there  tall  and  short,  fair  and  brown,  lean  and  fat ;  in  short,  every 
5 


i|l!l 


III 


66 


MONTREAL. 


one  found  a  shoo  to  fit  his  foot.  At  the  end  of  fifteen  days  not  one 
remained.  I  am  told  that  the  fattest  were  the  soonest  carried  off,  be- 
cause it  was  imagined  tliat,  being  h>ss  active,  tliey  would  liave  more 
trouble  to  leave  their  housekeo|)ing,  and  would  better  resist  the  cold  of 
the  winter ;  but  many  people  who  went  on  this  principle  were  taken  in 
by  it.  .  .  .  Those  who  desired  to  marry  addressed  themselves  to  the 
directresses,  to  whom  they  were  bound  to  declare  their  property  and 
faculties  before  choosing  from  these  three  classes  her  whom  they  found 
to  their  taste.  The  marriage  was  concluded  on  the  spot  by  the  aid  of 
the  priest  and  the  notary,  and  the  next  day  the  Governor  caused  to  be 
distributed  to  the  married  a  bull,  a  cow,  a  hog,  a  sow,  a  cock,  a  hen, 
two  barrels  of  salt  meat,  eleven  crowns,  and  certain  aci-es." 

POINTS  OP  INTEREST. 

Before  undertaking  to  "  do  "  the  city  one  should  view  it  as  a  whole 
from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  so  possess  one's  self  of  the  "  lay  " 
of  the  streets  and  chief  points  of  interest,  and  equip  one's  self  with 
a  proper  realization  of  the  magnificence  of  the  city's  island  throne. 
Gaining  the  summit  by  beaiitifuily  winding  drives,  or  more  directly 
by  an  incline  railway,  we  stand  on  what  was  once  an  active  volcano. 
Far  below,  between  the  mountain  and  the  river,  lies  spread  out  the 
broad  confusion  of  the  city  roofs  and  streets  and  towers,  fringed  along 
the  shining  water-limits  with  the  masts  and  funnels  of  its  shipping. 
Beyond  the  water  lie  great  breadths  of  flat  country,  bounded  on  the  far 
horizon  by  the  twin  mountains  of  St.  Hilaire,  In  another  direction  we 
see  a  silent  city  clinging  to  the  steep — the  cemeteries  of  Cote-dcs-Nciges 
and  Mount  Royal.  Away  to  the  westward  over  Null's  Islnnd  the  surges 
of  Lachin«  are  glittering  in  the  sun.  Straight  across  the  river,  almost 
in  the  center  of  the  panorama,  runs  the  famous  Victoria  Bridge, 
regarded  at  the  time  of  its  construction  as  the  eighth  wonder  of  the 
world,  and  which  is  now  being  replaced  by  an  open-work  steel  bridge, 
made  necessary  by  the  enormous  amount  of  traffic  which  passes  over 
this  portion  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  system,  and  as  a  consequence 
the  large  iron  tube  of  the  old  Victoria  Bridge  is  being  demolished  and 
the  new  bridge  is  expected  to  be  opened  in  a  few  months,  the  building 
of  it  progressing  without  any  interruption  to  traffic.  Some  distance  to 
the  left  St.  Helen's  Island  divides  the  giant  stream ;  and  in  the  middle 
distance,  dominating  the  roofs  of  the  city,  rise  the  majestic  twin  towers 
of  Notre  Dame,     On  the  other  side  of  the  mountain,  fenced  by  the 


MONTREAL. 


67 


g. 


to 
lie 

he 


reaches  of  Back  River.,  lie  the  opulent  villages,  farms,  and  orchards 
which  have  earned  for  Montreal  Island  the  title  of  the  (Jarden  of  Canada. 

Descending  the  mountain  and  re-entering  the  mazes  of  the  streets, 
we  make  our  way  first  to  the  historic  Place  d^Armes.  This  was 
the  first  buryiug-ground  of  the  pioneers.  Now  it  is  a  railed  space  of 
trees,  cool  with  the  sjiray  of  its  fountain  and  with  the  shade  of  the 
stately  buildings  surrounding  it.  Here  is  erected  a  magnificent  statue 
of  Maissoneuve,  the  founder  of  the  city.  On  the  south  side  stands  the 
parish  church  of  Notre  Dame,  one  of  the  largest  ecclesiastical  struc- 
tures on  the  continent.  It  accommodates  10,000  people  easily,  and  has 
been  known  to  contain  15,000  within  its  walls.  Its  towers  are  227  ft. 
high.  It  has  a  magnificent  chime  of  11  bells,  of  which  one,  called  the 
Gros  Bourdon,  is  the  largest  in  America,  and  weighs  29,400  pounds. 
From  the  summit  of  the  tower  which  contains  the  bells  a  splendid  view 
is  obtained.    The  cost  of  this  church  was  about  $6,(/00,000. 

Alongside  of  Notre  Dame  stands  the  ancient  Scminari/  of  St.  Sul- 
pice,  built  more  than  two  centuries  ago,  its  massive  wall,  pierced  with 
loopholes,  looking  grimly  down  on  the  thronged  and  peaceful  street. 
The  seminary  shares  with  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  whose  pillared  abode 
rises  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square,  the  distinction  of  being  the 
wealthiest  institution  in  America.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Place  d'Armcs  throng  the  splendid  structures  of  the  Post-Office,  the 
Jacques-Cartier  Bank,  the  Banque  Nationalc,  and  the  buildings  of  the 
New  York  Life  and  other  insurance  companies. 

As  far  as  situation  goes,  and  perhaps  in  other  respects  as  well,  the 
finest  square  in  the  city  is  Dominion  Square.  It  is  high  and  spacious, 
and  about  it  gather  several  fine  churches  ;  the  vast  pile  of  the  Wind- 
sor Hotel,  the  handsome  pile  containing  the  station  and  general  offices 
of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  resembling  the  keep  of  a  Norman 
castle ;  the  Y  M.  C.  A.  building ;  and,  overshadowing  them  all,  the 
great  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  which  is  known  as  St.  James's  from  the 
fact  that  St.  James  is  its  patron  saint.  This  noble  structure  is  a  fac- 
simile of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  with  its  dimensions  reduced  about  one 
half.  The  extreme  measurements  of  this  cathedral  are :  length  333  ft., 
breadth  222  ft.,  height  258  ft.,  circumference  of  dome  240  ft.  It  is  in 
this  square  that  the  fine  memorial  statue  to  Sir  John  Macdonald  was 
unveiled  on  June  6,  1895. 

Of  the  other  Roman  Catholic  churches  of  the  city  the  most  inter- 
esting to  tourists  are  the  beautiful  Church  of  Notre  Dame  de  Zourdes, 


I    !! 


i  i\ 


MONTREAL. 

on  the  corner  of  St.  Catherine  and  St.  Denln  StH. ;  the  JfnuUn''  Church 
on  Hloury  St.,  with  itM  unrivaled  fri'scoes  nnd  exqidslte  niiiHlc ;  the 
('htiftrl  of  Xofrc  Dtimr  ilc  A'liznr/h,  with  its  fine  paintings ;  and  the 
famous  old  HomrconrK  Churrh,  whleh  was  built  in  1771. 

Of  the  .Vuftiican  churolics  the  finest,  from  an  arohiteetural  point  of 
view,  are  Sf.  (rror</r^s,  the  Chiurh  of  Sf,  Jntnen  the  Ap  mtfi;  nnd  tlie  stately 
Cht'int  Church  Citthn/rnl  at  the  corner  of  University  and  St.  ('ath- 
crine  Sts.  This  latter  structure  is,  jierhaps,  w  ith  the  exception  of  Christ 
Church  Cathedral  at  Fredcricton,  the  most  perfect  specimen  of  i)urc 
Gothic  architecture  on  the  continent.  A  noble  and  ninssivc  structure  is 
the  St.  James  Methodist  church  on  St.  Catherine  St.  The  rresbytcrians 
have  a  number  of  fine  churches,  of  which  the  most  notewortliy,  archi- 
tecturally, are  St.  Paul's,  the  Crescent  Street,  h'rnkiue,  and  the  American 
Prexbffterian.  The  old  St.  GnbrieVs  Church,  which  was  erected  in  1792 
at  the  west  end  of  the  ('hamp-de-Mars,  is  still  standing?,  nnd  now  used 
as  an  office  for  the  revenue  police.  Montreal  has  three  Jewish  syna- 
gogues, one  of  which,  on  Stanley  St.,  is  nn  impressive  structure  some- 
what after  the  lines  of  an  old  Egyptian  temple. 

Besides  the  Place  d'Armes  and  Dominion  Square,  already  referred  to, 
Montreal  has  other  parks  and  squares.  Slie  is  well  supplied  with  breath- 
ing-places. There  is  the  historic  Champ  de  Mars,  on  Craig  St.,  still  used 
as  a  parade-ground.  Xear  the  City  Hall  is  Jacqnes-Cartier  Square, 
adorned  by  two  Russian  guns  from  the  spoils  of  Sebastopol,  and  by  a  col- 
umn and  statue  erected  in  1808  in  memory  of  Nelson.  At  the  junc- 
tion of  McGill  and  St.  James  Sts.  is  Victoria  Square,  formerly  the  hay- 
market,  presided  over  by  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  the  Queen.  On 
St.  Denis  St.,  the  aristocratic  French  residence  quarter,  are  the  Viger 
Gardens,  opposite  which  is  the  new  C.  P.  R.  hotel  and  station.  St. 
Helen's  Island  is  now  used  as  a  public  park,  though  belonging  to  the 
English  Government.  It  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  city  ]iicnickers, 
and  forgets  its  martial  experiences  of  old  times.  Champlain's  wife,  in 
whose  honor  the  island  is  named,  was  the  first  European  woman  of 
gentle  birth  to  cast  in  her  lot  with  Canada.  A  place  of  resort  which 
the  tourist  should  not  fail  to  visit  is  the  Bonseconrs  Market.  The 
great  market-days  are  Tuesday  and  Friday  when  the  broad  space  is 
thronged  with  habitants,*  and  one  comes  into  close  contact  with  the 
quaint  material  of  wliich  French  Canada  is  really  made  up. 

*  French  Canadian  country-folk. 


MONTREAL. 


69 


Montreal  is  not  only  a  city  of  cliurchos,  but  of  hospitals  and  benev- 
olent institutionH  n«  well.  The  laif^est  and  wealthiest  of  these  is  the 
Hdtd-Diru,  under  the  iimnagenient  of  the  Hhiek  Nuns.  This  institu- 
tion was  founded  in  1644.  Tlie  famous  fSrey  Nuiiiierv,  founded  in 
1738,  is  not  a  convent,  but  a  hospital,  under  the  uiana<j:enient  of  the 
Grey  Nuns.  Airording  to  Murray's  Guide  to  Montreal,  "  The  name 
•Grey  Nuns'  was  first  given  tlicm  in  derision.  The  malicious  reports 
circulated  against  the  ladies,  especially  that  of  furnishing  the  Indians 
with  alcohol,  and  making  too  free  a  use  of  it  themselves,  gave  rise  to 
the  epithet  '  So'urs  Grises,'  the  word  (frixe  bearing  a  do»d)le  meaning  in 
French,  viz.,  a  gray  color,  or  tipsy."  The  Sisters  who  were  thus  cruelly 
assailed  have  made  the  once  opprobrious  epithet  a  title  of  the  highest 
honor.  The  best  time  for  visitors  to  call  at  the  Grey  Nunnery  is  at 
the  noon  hour,  when  callers  are  always  made  welcome.  The  Iioi/al  I'ic- 
toria  Hosjtitdl  is  the  gift  of  two  of  Montreal's  chief  citizens.  Lord  Mount- 
Stephens  and  Lord  Strathearn.  Just  below  Ilochelaga,  beyond  the 
eastern  limits  of  the  city,  stood  the  vast  structure  of  the  Lonffuc  Pointe 
Asi/lum,  which  was  burned  to  the  ground  in  the  summer  of  1890.  This 
institution  was  in  charge  of  a  Roman  Catholic  religious  order.  Sixty 
of  the  inmates,  including  several  of  the  nuns  in  charge,  perished  in  the 
conflagration. 

Among  the  educational  institutions  are  JUcGill  University,  the 
Presbyterian  College,  the  Montreal  College  or  Seniiitari/  of  /SI.  Su/fnce^ 
the  Vrtevinary  Col/effe,  St.  ilary's  or  the  Jcsult.'i'  Collegt,  the  Montreal 
branch  of  Laval  University,  whose  parent  institution  is  at  Quebec,  the 
Villa-Maria  Convent  School  for  Girlti,  and  the  Girls'  School  of  the  Nuns 
of  the  Sacred  Heart.  Of  these  the  most  important  is  of  course  McGill 
University,  which,  under  the  presidency  of  the  renowned  Sir  William 
Dawson,  has  grown  to  a  world-wide  fame  and  influence.  The  pride  of 
the  city,  it  receives  munificent  gifts  from  wealthy  citizens,  and  is  ever 
reaching  out  to  wider  splieres  of  usefulness.  Its  buildings,  which  are 
on  Sherhrooke  St.,  the  "  Fifth  Avenue  "  of  Montreal,  stand  in  the  midst 
of  fine  grounds,  and  contain  a  good  library  and  the  famous  Redpath 
Museum.  Affiliated  witlj  Mc(iill  are  the  Presbyterian,  Congregational, 
Wesleyan,  and  Anglican  Colleges  of  Montreal,  together  with  Morrin 
College  at  Quebec  and  St.  Frances  College,  Richmond.  The  tourist 
will  do  well  to  visit  the  Art  Gallery  on  Phillips  Square,  and  the  rooms 
of  the  Natural  History  Society  on  University  St.  The  museum  of  this 
society  is  the  best  in  Canada.    Among  its  treasures  are  the  "  Ferrier 


w 


70 


MONTREAL. 


Collection  "  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  the  most  perfect  of  its  kind  on  the 
continent.  Here  also  may  be  seen  the  first  breech-loading  gun  ever 
made.  We  read  in  Murray's  Guide  that  "  it  was  sent  out  to  this  conn- 
try  by  the  French  Government.  It  was  used  by  the  French  in  one  of 
their  expeditions  against  the  Indians  of  Lake  Oka.  The  Indians  at- 
tacked the  canoe  in  which  the  cannon  was  placed  and  upset  it.  The 
cannon  lay  for  a  while  in  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  and  one  part  of  it  was 
lost  there  and  never  found."  The  museum  also  contains  the  best  exist- 
ing collection  of  Canadian  birds. 

One  of  the  chief  "lions"  of  Montreal  is  the  famous  Tictoria 
Bridge,  already  mentioned  as  the  "  eighth  wonder  of  the  world."  The 
engineering  genius  that  spanned  the  Menai  Strait  —  the  genius  of 
Robert  Stephenson  and  Alexander  M.  Ross — designed  this  mighty 
structure  by  which  the  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence 
from  Montreal  to  the  south  shore.  With  a  length  of  a  few  yards  less 
than  2  miles,  this  is  the  longest  bridge  in  the  world.  It  is  a  vast  tube, 
supported  on  24  piers,  exclusive  of  the  terminal  abutments.  The  tube 
has  inside  diameters  of  22  ft.  vertical  and  16  ft.  horizontal.  From  the 
bed  of  the  river  to  the  top  of  the  center  tube  is  a  distance  of  108  ft. 
The  cost  of  the  bridge  was  $6,300,000,  and  its  construction  occupied 
five  years  and  a  half.  It  was  formally  opened  by  the  Prince  of  Wales 
in  1860.  As  mentioned  in  the  foregoing  pages,  the  old  bridge  is  being 
remodeled,  and  the  new  bridge  which  is  to  take  its  place  is  now  in 
course  of  construction.  The  moi"e  modern  structure  will  have  a  double 
track,  a  section  for  foot-passengers,  and  a  carriageway  on  each  side. 
The  new  trusses  are  being  erected  on  the  same  stone  piers  which  sup- 
ported the  tubular  bridge,  and  the  length  of  each  span  will  be  the  same 
as  the  old  bridge.  The  current  of  the  St.  Lawrence  at  this  point  has  a 
speed  of  about  7  miles  an  hour.  Close  by  the  bridge,  at  Point  Sf. 
Charlen,  is  the  burying-ground  of  6,000  immigrants  who  died  in  184*7- 
'48  of  a  frightful  epidemic  of  ship-fever.  In  the  center  of  the  burying- 
ground  is  a  huge  bowlder  known  as  the  Immigrants'  Memorial  Stone, 
which  was  taken  from  the  bed  of  tl(8  river  and  raised  on  a  column  of 
masonry  by  the  workmen  engaged  in  the  construction  of  the  bridge. 

In  sharp  contrast  with  the  gigantic  tube  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  is 
the  aerial  struutuve  by  which  tlie  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  crosses  the 
St.  Lawrence  at  Lackine.  This  bridge  is  built  on  the  most  modern 
design,  and  is  a  brilliant  application  of  the  cantilever  principle.  Its 
spans  appear  like  clusters  of  great  steel  cobwebs.    They  offer  little 


MONTREAL. 


71 


resistance  to  the  winds,  and  combine  the  greatest  strength  with  the 
least  possible  weight. 

Prominent  among  the  buildings  of  Montreal  are  the  Victoria  Hospi- 
tal, the  Board  of  Trade,  Bank  of  Toronto,  the  capacious  Bonaventtire 
Depots  belonging  to  the  (Jrand  Trunk  Ry.,  and  the  splendid  stations  of 
the  Canadian  Pacific  on  Windsor  St.  and  Viger  Sq.  These  latter  edi- 
fices may  honestly  be  called  palatial,  resembling  as  they  do  a  palace  far 
more  than  railway  stations. 

In  connection  with  the  water-supply  of  Montreal  there  is  a  point  of 
interest  for  the  tourist.  This  is  the  great  reservoir,  which  is  hewn  out 
of  the  solid  rock  far  up  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The  reservoir  has 
a  capacity  of  36,500,000  gallons.  It  is  supplied  by  an  aqueduct 
which  leads  the  water  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  above  the  Lachine 
Rapids  to  a  point  on  the  western  limit  of  the  city,  whence  it  is 
pumped  up  the  mountain  to  the  reservoir. 

The  tourist  who  is  interested  in  athletics  and  outdoor  sports  will 
see  some  splendidly  contested  Lacrosse  matches  at  the  grounds  of  the 
Shamrock  and  Montreal  Clubs,  and  he  will  do  well  to  visit  the  admi- 
rably equipped  gymnasium  of  the  Montreal  Amateur  Athletic  Associa- 
tion and  the  Y.  M.  0.  A.  building  on  Dominion  Square.  At  the  La- 
crosse Grounds  matches  are  usually  being  played  on  Saturday  after- 
noons, or  other  days  as  advertised,  and  admission  is  by  ticket.  If 
he  is  at  all  touched  with  Anglomania  he  will  be  enraptured  with  the 
Montreal  Hunt  Club,  the  best-conducted  establishment  of  the  kind 
on  the  continent.  In  respect  of  sports,  Montreal  is  as  well  off  in  win- 
ter as  in  sunnner.  Men  and  women  alike  are  enthusiastic  devotees 
of  the  hardy  pastime  of  tobogganing.  Perhaps  the  best  skaters  and 
snow-shoers  in  the  world  ai-e  the  sons  and  daughters  of  Montreal. 

The  following  eminently  practical  bit  from  Murray's  Illustrated 
Guide  may  be  found  useful  by  some  travelers : 

How  to  visit  the  Principal  Places  of  Interest  in  the  Shortest  Time  for 

the  Least  Monet/. 

In  whatever  quarter  of  the  city  you  are  lodging,  the  first  place  to 
visit  is  the  JVotre  Dame  Church. 

From  the  hotel  either  hire  a  cab  or  take  the  street-cars  going 
S.,  and  tell  the  conductor  to  let  you  off  at  Place  d'Armes  Square,  and 
then  a  few  paces  from  you  lu  Notre  Dame  Church  and  several  other 


72 


MONTREAL. 


places  of  interest.  A  few  blocks  E.  from  there  is  the  City  Hall^  the 
Court-House,  Nehonh  Monument,  Chdteau  tie  Ramezay,  St.  Gabriel  St. 
old  Presbyterian  Church,  and  not  far  away  is  the  lionsecours  Market 
and  Bonsecours  Church.  While  there  you  may  visit  the  harbor  and  the 
Keio  Custom-House,  about  a  half-mile  farther  W.  Then  walk  up  Mc- 
Gill  St.  to  Victoria  Square,  whence  you  may  get  the  street-cars  to  take 
you  to  the  principal  places  of  interest  up  town.  First  visit  the  Notre 
Dame  de  Lourdes,  near  the  corner  of  St.  Catherine  and  St.  Denis  Sts. 
Thence  retrace  your  steps  westward  till  you  come  to  Bleury  St.,  and 
there  is  the  old  Jesuits'  Church  and  College.  Then  turn  up  to  St. 
Catherine  St.,  W.,  till  you  come  to  the  Art  Gallery,  corner  of  Phillips 
Square.  Then  visit  the  English  Cathedral  and  the  Museum  of  the 
Natural  History  Society.  Then  take  the  street-cars  till  you  come  W. 
as  far  as  Guy  St.,  and  visit  the  Grey  Nunnery  at  noon.  After  dinner, 
hire  a  cab  to  take  you  to  the  Me  Gill  College  (there  is  a  very  interesting 
museum  in  connection  with  the  college,  which  visitors  may  enter  on 
payment  of  a  small  entrance  fee),  and  close  by  are  the  two  city  reser- 
voirs ;  and  you  can  hire  a  cab  to  take  you  to  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
or  you  can  go  up  by  the  incline  railway.  Then,  after  you  have  taken 
a  good  view  of  the  surrounding  country  from  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
and  visited  the  two  cemeteries,  you  can  come  back  to  the  city  by  street- 
cars, and  you  have  a  day  well  spent,  and  not  over  ^1  of  necessary  ex- 
pense, besides  your  hotel  bill.  To  this  must  be  added  the  fact  that  the 
new  electric  car  system  will  carry  the  traveler  to  almost  any  part  of  the 
city. 

From  Montreal  to  St.  John. 


From  Montreal  the  tourist,  who  has  already  visited  Quebec,  may  go 
direct  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Short  Line 
(fare,  $13.50;  return,  $19)  which  traverses  the  so-called  Eastern  Town- 
ships, the  great  hunting  and  fishing  districts  about  Lake  Megantic  in 
N.  E.  Maine,  and  thence,  almost  as  the  crow  flies,  to  St.  John,  New 
Brunsviick.  By  this  route  we  cross  the  St.  Lawrence  by  the  new  Cana- 
dian Pacific  R.  R.  bridge  at  Lachine,  and  run  through  the  Lidian  village 
of  Caughfiawaga,  where  dwell  the  remnants  of  the  Iroquois.  These 
Indians  are  magnificent  boatmen,  and  in  the  late  Egyptian  war  a  band 
of  fifty  of  them  did  splendid  service  for  England  in  the  rapids  of  the 
Nile.  At  Brigham  Junction  the  Montreal  and  Boston  Air-Line  di- 
verges for  the  White  Mountains.     Soon  we  come  in  sight  of  Memphre- 


MON'      JAL  TO   ST.   JOHN. 


78 


magog'a  shining  waters,  watched  over  by  the  famous  peaks  of  Ele- 
phantis  and  Owl's  Head.  From  Magog  Station  a  steamer  departs  daily 
on  a  circuit  of  the  lake's  winding  shores,  stopping  at  the  many  summer 
resorts  for  which  the  region  is  famous.  After  passing  Magog,  the  next 
important  station  is  Sherbrooke^  the  metropolis  of  the  Eastern  Town- 
ships, a  pretty  city  at  the  junction  of  the  Magog  and  St.  Francis  Rivers. 
Sherbrooke  has  a  population  of  over  10,000,  and  is  building  up  a 
large  manufacturing  interest.  The  falls  of  the  Magog  are  well  worth 
a  visit.  The  chief  hotels  are  the  Sherbrooke  House,  Magog  House,  and 
Grand  Central,  charging  from  $1.60  to  $2  a  day.  From  Sherbrooke 
the  Quebec  Central  R.  R.  runs  through  a  rapidly  developing  country 
to  Quebec.  On  the  Quebec  Central  are  the  interesting  and  valuable 
asbestos  mines  of  Thctford.  Three  miles  beyond  Sherbrooke  is  the 
pretty  little  university  town  of  Lennoxville,  the  seat  of  the  Church  of 
England  institutions  of  Bishop's  College  and  Bishop's  College  School. 
These  institutions  have  of  late  been  making  very  great  progress  under 
the  principalship  of  Dr.  Adams ;  but  the  corporation  has  lately  suf- 
fered a  severe  blow  in  the  destruction  by  fire  of  the  fine  university 
building.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Lennoxville  a  point  of  interest  is 
Spider  Lake,  sometimes  called  the  Geneva  of  Canada,  where  the  club- 
house of  the  Megantic  Fish  and  Game  Club  is  located.  Then  we  come 
to  Lake  Megantic,  a  body  of  water  12  miles  long,  from  1  to  4  in  width, 
and  a  veritable  Mecca  of  sportsmen.  The  name  Megantic  signifies 
"  the  resort  of  fish."  There  is  fair  accommodation  at  Megantic  Station, 
and  competent  guides  may  be  procured  on  the  spot.  Direct  rail  con- 
nection is  made  here  with  Levis  (opposite  Quebec)  by  the  Quebec  Cen- 
tral. A  few  miles  beyond  Megantic  we  cross  the  boundary-line,  and 
find  ourselves  in  the  State  of  Maine.  Twenty  miles  from  Megantic 
Station  we  run  into  the  village  of  LoioeUtoivn.  Then  comes  Oreenville, 
on  the  shore  of  the  grandest  of  all  Maine  waters,  the  famous  Moosehead 
Lake.  Tliis  water  is  40  miles  long  and  from  1  to  15  wide.  Its  scenery 
is  magnificent  and  varied.  Its  waters  are  splendidly  stocked  with  trout 
of  great  size,  and  around  its  shores  are  admirable  shooting-grounds, 
where  one  may  bag  such  game  as  moose,  bear,  deer,  and  caribou,  to  say 
nothing  of  grouse  innumerable.  At  Greenville  are  guides  and  canoes, 
and  several  comfortable  hotels.  From  Greenville  Junction  the  Bangor 
&  Aroostook  R.  R.  diverges  to  Oldtown  and  Bangor,  Me.  Steamers  run 
to  all  the  points  of  interest  on  the  lake,  including  the  Kineo  House  at 
the  foot  of  Mount  Kineo.    Moosehead  Lake  is  the  source  of  the  Kenne- 


74 


MONTREAL   TO   ST.   JOHN. 


bee  River,  which  flows  out  of  the  lake  at  Askwilh  Station.  In  the  100 
miles  of  comparative  wilderness  between  Moosehead  Lake  and  Matta- 
wamkeag  the  chief  points  of  interest  are  Boarstone  Moun^iin  and  the 
lovely  Lake  Onawa.  At  BrownviUe  Junction  we  cross  tht  line  of  the 
Katahdin  Iron  Works  Kail  way.  At  Mattawamkeag  the  C.  P.  R.  unites 
with  the  line  connecting  Bangor  and  St.  John.  At  the  same  point  the 
track  crosses  the  Penobscot  River.  From  this  point  to  Vancehoro,  on 
the  New  Brunswick  boundary,  wc  pass  through  a  rugged  country,  full 
of  lakes  and  streams,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  crude  little  lum- 
bering villages.  Vanceboro  is  on  the  St.  Croix  River,  the  outlet  of  the 
boundary,  or  Chiputneticook  Lakes.  The  region  of  these  lakes  is  a 
good  one  for  the  sportsman,  and  Vanceboro  is  a  convenient  point  from 
which  to  reach  them.  Six  miles  beyond  Vanceboro  is  McAdam  Junc- 
tion, a  village  whose  houses  are  perched  in  such  vacant  spaces  as  can 
be  found  between  the  huge  bowlders  which  cover  the  face  of  the  land. 
At  JIcAdam  connections  are  made  for  Woochtock  and  Presque  Isle  to 
the  N.,  and  for  Calaih,  St.  Stephen,  and  the  lovely  summer  resort  of  St, 
Andreio's  to  the  S.  Forty  miles  beyond  McAdam  is  the  little  village  of 
Fredericton  Junction,  20  miles  from  Fredericton ;  and  a  run  of  44  miles 
beyond  Fredericton  Junction,  through  scenes  to  be  described  in  later 
pages,  brings  us  to  the  city  of  St.  John. 

Montreal  to  Quebec  by  the  St.  Lawrence. 

If  the  tourist  has  not  seen  Quebec,  then  assuredly  he  will  not  take 
the  short  line  to  the  Maritime  Provinces.  By  one  of  four  routes  he  will 
certainly  betake  himself  to  a  city  that  is  perhaps,  in  many  respects,  the 
best  worth  seeing  on  the  continent  N.  of  Mexico ;  and  from  Quebec 
he  will  seek  the  Maritime  Provinces  probably  by  the  Quebec  Central 
and  C.  P.  R.  short  lines,  or  the  Intercolonial  R.  R.,  or,  if  very  much 
addicted  to  tlie  water,  by  steamer  around  the  Gulf  coast.  From 
Montreal,  one  may  go  to  Quebec  either  by  the  Grand  Trunk  or  Inter- 
colonial  down  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  or  by  the  Canadian 
Pacific  down  the  N.  shore,  or  by  steamer  down  the  mighty  stream  itself. 
As  it  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  traveler  has  plenty  of  time,  and  desires 
plenty  of  scenery,  we  would  recommend  the  last-named  route.  The 
splendid  palace  steamers  that  ply  between  Montreal  and  Quebec  belong 
to  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company.  The  distance  is 
180  miles ;  and  the  first-class  fare,  not  including  supper  or  berth,  is  $3. 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


Y5 


As  the  steamer  leaves  Montreal  we  pass  the  villoge  of  Longucuil, 
on  the  S.  shore,  where  many  of  Montreal's  citizens  have  their  summer 
abodes.  At  Longueuil,  in  1775,  Governor  Carleton  was  defeated  by 
the  American  forces.  On  the  N.  shore,  a  little  beyond,  is  Loncjue 
Poiute,  with  the  ruins  of  the  great  asylum  already  mentioned.  ,  Nine 
miles  from  Montreal  we  pass  J 'ohit ■mix- Trembles,  with  its  old  French 
church,  which  was  built  in  l7o9.  A  little  farther  on,  and  we  are 
among  the  flat  and  reedy  Isles  of  Bouchcrville,  where  admirable  are 
the  pike-fishing  and  duck-shooting  in  their  seasons.  Among  these 
shoals  and  islands  and  reaches  of  slow  water,  the  ice,  in  the  spring 
breaking-up,  is  apt  to  run  aground  and  jam,  causing  floods  which 
Montreal  finds  very  troublesome.  Fifteen  miles  from  Montreal  is  the 
charmingly  situated  health-resort  of  Varennts,  mix\\G  important  by  its 
mineral  springs.  The  fields  of  Varennes  are  washed  in  front  by  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  in  the  rear  by  the  arrowy  tide  of  the  lovely  and  his- 
toric Richelieu.  Thirty  miles  beyond  Varennes  the  liichelieu  flows  into 
the  St.  liEwrencc.  At  this  point  stands  Sard,  which  has  lately  been  pro- 
moted to  the  dignity  of  a  city.  Here  in  1665  a  fort  was  estabUshed  by 
De  Tracy.  Sorel  was  for  a  long  time  the  summer  residence  of  the  Gov- 
ernors of  Canada.  There  is  good  fishing  among  the  islands  which  clus- 
ter at  the  Richelieu's  mouth,  and  in  October  the  neighborhood  affords 
capital  snipe-shooting.     The  population  of  Sorel  is  about  7,500. 

In  the  towns  and  counties  along  the  Richelieu  are  perpetuated  the 
names  of  the  officers  of  the  old  Carignan-Salieres  Regiment,  who  were 
stationed  on  seignories  throughout  this  region  to  guard  the  approaches 
to  Villemarie.  As  Mr.  Hunter  picturesquely  puts  it,  they  are  "  picketed 
around  the  ancient  rendezvous  at  the  confluence  of  the  Richelieu  and 
St.  Lawrence,  ...  as  though  still  guarding  the  Irocpiois  River-Gate." 
Here,  besides  Varennes,  we  have  Berthier,  Lavaltrie,  Boucher,  Contre- 
cieur,  and  Vercheres.  One  of  the  most  illustrious  of  Canada's  heroines 
is  Madeleine,  daughter  of  Lieutenant  Vercheres.  Veroheres's  fort  was 
called  "  Castle  Dangerous,"  being  so  exposed  to  the  assaults  of  the  Iro- 
quois. On  one  occasion  Madeleine,  with  a  force  of  three  men  and  two 
little  boys,  sustained  the  attacks  of  the  Iroquois  for  a  whole  week,  till 
help  came  from  (Quebec.  The  girl  was  at  this  time  but  fourteen  years 
of  age.  Her  followers,  on  the  first  attack,  were  for  killing  themselves, 
to  escape  the  torture  of  the  Iroquois,  but  her  dauntless  courage  and 
energy  gave  them  new  heart,  and  her  wisdom  taught  them  to  conduct 
the  defense  successfully. 


n 


ti     :i 


70 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


The  valley  of  the  Richelieu  was  for  two  centuries  a  pathway  of  war, 
along  which  fire  and  sword,  Irofiuois  and  Abenakis,  French  and  Dutch 
and  English,  Canadian  and  American,  streamed  alternately  on  eri'ands  of 
vengeful  hate.  The  tourist  who  wishes  to  travel  this  blood-stained  track 
will  ascend  through  landscapes  of  blended  sublimity  and  peace,  and  find 
himself  at  length  on  the  bosom  of  that  magnificent  lake,  no  longer 
Canadian,  which  yet  perpetuates  the  name  of  the  Father  of  Canada, 
Samuel  de  Champlain.  Like  tlie  war  parties  of  old,  he  will  find  him- 
self in  the  very  heart  of  the  State  of  Xew  York.  Unlike  those  ancient 
visitors,  however,  his  visit  will  be  not  unwelcome.  lie  will  have  found 
his  ascent  of  the  rushing  Kichelieu  made  easy  by  the  ChnMi/  Canal. 
He  will  have  traversed  the  rich  and  lovely  Eastern  Townships  and 
caught  their  distinctive  flavor.  lie  will  probably  delay  his  trip,  and 
linger  long  and  wander  hither  and  thither  in  this  delightful  land  of 
lake  and  mountain.  Besides  Lakes  Monplirauoijog  and  Mcgantic  he 
will  visit  the  lovely  waters  of  Bnnnr  and  Afansawijipi.  Through  the  wild, 
maple-wooded  hills  he  will  trace  the  path  by  which,  in  1759,  the  aveng- 
ing band  of  Kogcrs's  Rangers  swei)t  to  the  slaughter  of  the  Abenakis 
— after  which  the  homes  of  New  England  had  jieace  for  a  little. 

But  the  strife  of  man  will  presently  be  forgotten  as  we  mark  how 
the  struggles  of  warring  Nature,  in  forgotten  ages,  have  scored  the  face 
of  all  this  region  with  their  gigantic  and  indelible  records.  The  effects 
of  these  ancient  cataclysms,  together  with  the  sphere  of  their  opera- 
tion, have  been  thus  well  described  by  Mr,  J.  Howard  Hunter,  in  Pict- 
uresque Canada : 

"  Throughout  this  land  the  strata  have  been  much  shaken  and 
changed  by  some  Titanic  force — seemingly  steam  heated  beyond  the 
scale  of  any  pyrometer,  and  tortured  under  pressure  which  would  be 
inadequately  gauged  by  thousands  of  tons  to  the  s(|uare  inch.  Sir  Will- 
iam Logan  traced  a  line  of  dislocation  from  MIsNisqiioi  Bai)  on  Lake 
Champlain  to  Point  Levis,  along  which  the  wrenching  asunder  of  strata 
is  equivalent  to  a  vertical  disi)laceiiient  of  many  thousands  of  feet. 
Westward  of  this  line  of  rupture — which  we  shall  call  Logan's  line — 
the  sedimentary  rocks  that  were  directly  exjiosed  to  incandescent  steam, 
softened,  rearranged  their  elements,  and  ran  to  a  glassy  or  stony  paste. 
Under  the  enorn)Ous  pressure  below,  the  surface-stiata  presently  cracked 
and  sometimes  opened  wide.  Instantly  into  the  cracks  and  fissures 
rushed  the  pasty  rock,  forming  dikes  of  tiachyte  or  diorite.  In  places 
the  very  granite  foundations  of  the  world  seem  to  have  softened  and 
followed  the  sedimentary  rocks  to  the  surface.  Where  the  ground 
yielded  most,  stately  pyramids  of  mountain-protoplasm  were  born.  It 
is  to  such  throes  of  Mother  Earth  that  we  owe  the  beautiful  sisterhood 


liml.  ,, ,„„ 

hull        ■.         ../  7''  III  :       '■      I    .'     ■U.li    ll.lli' 


li'1'^^i|.|i*' 


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[i 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


77 


of  Bflml  Mountain  and  Yamnnka,  Rougcmont  and  Mount  Mannoir,  the 
Boucherville  Motiutdlvs  and  Monnt  Koi/a/  itself.  Eastward  of  Logan's 
line  more  intcnsi;  still  must  have  been  the  energy  that  girdled  Lake 
Memphremagog  with  such  soaring  peaks  as  Mount  Orford,  Owl's  Head, 
and  Efcphnnlh.  VVithin  historic  times  some  severe  earthquakes  have 
shaken  this  area,  but  even  the  most  violent  were  gentle  pastime  com- 
pared with  the  elementnl  wars  of  geological  aiiticjuity.  To  be  sure, 
every. one  was  frightened  by  those  earthquakes,  but  then  no  one  was 
killed.  From  the  rccoi'ds  of  the  old  Jesuit  mission  on  the  St.  Francis 
we  learn  that  on  the  5th  of  September,  1732,  the  Indian  village  was  so 
rudely  shaken  as  to  destroy  its  identity ;  of  this  boulevcrsetnent  traces 
arc  still  discernible  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  More  general,  and  far 
more  violent,  was  the  famous  earthqiiake  of  1G63.  On  the  5th  of  J'eb- 
ruary  began  a  series  of  convulsions  which  did  not  quite  disappear  till 
midsummer.  Land-slides  occurred  all  along  the  river-banks,  and  the 
blue  St.  Lawrence  ran  white  as  far  down  as  Tadousac.  Every  one  ex- 
plained the  phenomenon  in  his  own  way.  At  Montreal,  not  a  few  con- 
sciences were  smitten  for  having  sold  tire-water  to  the  Indians.  The 
Indians,  however,  declared  that  the  shades  of  their  forefathers  were 
struggling  to  return  to  the  earthly  hunting-grounds,  and,  most  unduti- 
fully,  they  kept  tiring  off  their  muskets  to  scare  their  uncjuiet  sires ; 
*  for,'  quoth  the  musketeers,  '  it's  plain  to  see  there's  not  game  enough 
on  earth  for  botli  of  us  ! ' " 

The  earliest  recorded  name  of  the  Richelieu  River,  as  found  in 
Champlain's  narratives,  is  Riviere  des  Vrocois  ;  so  called  because  it  led 
to  the  land  of  the  Mohawks.  The  chief  town  on  the  Richelieu  is  the 
pretty  little  garrison  city  of  St.  John,  with  a  population  of  about  5,000. 
Chief  hotel  the  Canada  Hotel, 

A  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu  the  St.  Lawrence 
opens  out  into  the  great  expanse  called  Lalce  SI.  Peter.  Cartier  named 
this  water,  when  first  he  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence,  Lac  d'Angoulfime ; 
but  sixty-eight  years  later  it  was  visited  by  Champlain  on  St.  Peter's 
Dcay,  and  named  in  ])ious  commemoration  of  the  festival.  The  lake  is 
25  miles  in  length  by  9  miles  in  breadth,  and  is  shallow  except  in  the 
channel,  which  has  been  dredged  to  afford  safe  passage  to  the  largest 
ocean  steamers.  The  shallow  waters  arc  subject  to  sudden  and  violent 
storms,  by  which  the  great  rafts  on  their  leisurely  way  to  Quebec  are 
frequently  wrecked.  The  wide  waters  of  Lake  St.  Peter  were  once 
famous  for  the  song-^  of  the  raftsmen  delayed  on  the  sluggish  current. 
At  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Peter  is  a  sharp  bend  called  Pointe  Plaion, 
with  a  little  island  over  against  it  whereon  of  old  stood  a  fort.  It  was 
called  Fort  Richelieu,  and  was  established  by  Champlain  in  1633.  All 
vestiges  of  the  fort  have  vanished,  but  its  memory  lingers  in  the  name 


78 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


of  the  swift  and  broken  water  below  Pointe  Phiton,  wliioh  irt  known 
aa  the  Rii'hclieii  Knpid.  ' 

A  little  below  Lake  St.  Peter  flows  in  from  the  north  the  great  St. 
Maurice  liivn\  whieh  will  be  rcfcrrcfl  to  later  on.  At  its  mouth  stands 
the  eity  of  Three  Rivers,  ranUinj^  third  in  importance  and  population 
among  the  eities  of  the  province.  This  eitj-  stands  midway  between 
Montreal  and  Quebec,  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 
It  has  a  population  of  about  l(i,()00,  and  is  the  center  of  a  heavy  trade 
in  lumber  and  ircm.  Around  the  city  lie  vast  deposits  of  bog-iron  ore, 
and  the  great  lumbering  interests  of  the  upper  St.  Maurice  find  an  outlet 
through  its  port.  Three  itivers  is  the  see  of  a  lionuin  Catholic  bishop, 
whose  cathedral  is  an  imposing  structure.  The  city  derives  its  name 
from  the  fact  that  the  river  on  which  it  stands  enters  the  St.  Lawrence 
by  three  mouths.  It  was  founded  in  1618,  and  i)!aycd  an  important 
part  in  the  early  history  of  Canada.  The  smelting  of  iron  was  begun 
at  Three  Rivers  as  early  as  17J57.  The  city  is  rendered  the  more  in- 
teresting by  the  niasses  of  legend  and  romantic  tradition  that  cluster 
about  it,  offering  a  field  which  has  hardly  been  touched  save  by  the  pen 
of  the  French-Canadian  author,  Henjamin  Suite.  It  will  well  repay  an 
extended  visit.  Steamers  ply  from  the  city  wharves  to  the  adjacent 
river  villages.  Within  easy  reach  are  many  lai-ge  mountain  brooks, 
swarming  with  trout ;  and  from  the  city  one  may  conveniently  visit  the 
splendid  fishing  waters  of  the  upper  St.  Maurice.  A  stage-ride  of  26 
miles  from  Three  Rivers  takes  one  to  the  famous  mineral  springs  of 
St.  Leon.  On  the  south  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  ojiposite  Three 
Rivers,  is  the  village  of  Doiurf\s  Landlny^  the  terminus  of  the  Artha- 
baska  and  Three  Rivers  branch  of  the  (1.  T.  Ky.,  which  connects  the  city 
with  the  Eastern  Townships. 

A  short  distance  below  Three  Rivers  we  pass  the  village  of  Batiftcan, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Batiscan  River.  River  and  village  are  named  after 
an  Indian  chief  famous  in  the  early  history  of  Canada.  The  next 
village  commemorates  the  apparently  onnnpresont  Ste.  Anne — in  this 
case  called  Stc.  Anne  Jc  hi  J'cra<ff.  Beyond  St.  Anne's  lies  the  ancient 
settlement  of  Poinfc-aux-l'ronblcs,  where,  during  the  final  siege  of 
Quebec  in  1759,  took  place  several  encounters  between  French  and 
English.  The  following  incident  is  taken  from  the  entertaining  pages 
of  Mr.  J.  M.  Le  Moine : 

"A  party  of  1,200  of  Fraser's  Highlanders  and  Grenadiers,"  says 
Panet,  "  were  dispatched  to  Pointe-aux-Trembles,  commanded  by  Gen- 


MONTREAL   TO   QUEBEC. 


79 


eral  Wolfe  in  person,  under  the  guidance  of  Major  Robert  Stobo,  on 
July  21,  1769,  and  captured  three  men  and  a  bevy  of  Quebec  French 
ladies,  who  had  sought  a  refuge  there  during  the  bonibardtncnt.  The 
English  were  fired  on  by  about  40  Indians,  but  succeeded,  about  half- 
past  three  in  the  morning,  having  surrounded  the  houses  roimd  the 
church,  in  capturing  about  thirteen  ladies.  Among  the  fair  captives 
were  Mesdames  Duchesnay,  De  Charny,  with  her  mother  and  her  sister, 
and  Mdlle.  Couillard.  The  Joly,  Malhiot,  and  Magnan  families  formed 
part  of  them.  They  were  treated  with  every  kind  of  respect.  Young 
(leneral  Wolfe  headed  the  detachment  under  the  guidance  of  Major 
Robert  Stobo,  who,  it  seems,  made  several  pretty  speeches  to  the  ladies 
— ^  qui  a  fait  Men  den  compiiments.^ 

"  What  was  worse,"  remarks  Panet,  "  was  that  while  the  British 
soldiery  did  them  no  harm,  the  Indians  (allies  of  the  French)  pillaged 
the  houses  and  property  of  nearly  all  these  unfortunate  refugees. 
(I'anet's  Journal  du  Sii^ge,  p.  13.)  Each  captive  for  the  day  bore  the 
name  of  her  captor. 

"  It  sounds  odd  that  it  should  have  seemed  necessary  to  detail  1,200 
Highlanders  and  British  Grenadiers,  etc.,  to  capture  thirteen  French 
ladies !  One  likes  to  recall  this  romantic  incident  in  the  career  of  Miss 
Lowther's  admirer,  James  Wolfe — the  chivalrous  gallantry  of  the 
young  soldier  toward  beauty  in  distress.  Next  day  the  fair  Quebecers 
were  brought  home  in  boats  and  landed  at  Anee  des  Meres,  at  3  p.  m., 
orders  having  been  sent  by  the  (Jeneral  to  the  English  fleet  to  stop  fir- 
ing on  the  city  until  9  p.  m.,  so  as  to  afford  the  captives  time,  after 
their  release,  to  retire  to  a  place  of  safety.  Who  were  on  that  July  21, 
1769,  Madame  Wolfe,  Madame  Stobo,  Madame  Frazer  ?  What  a  lark 
for  the  sons  of  Mars  to  write  about  in  their  next  home  letters!  At 
Pointe-aux-Trembles  occurred,  during  the  spring  of  1760,  the  engage- 
ment between  the  French  frigates  and  an  overwhelming  force  of  the 
British  fleet,  brave  Captain  de  Yauclain,  of  the  Atalante,  winning,  by 
his  spirited  though  unsuccessful  defense,  the  respect  of  worthy  foes." 

Next  we  pass  Jacques- Cart icr  Hive}',  famous  for  its  salmon-fishing 
and  well  stocked  with  trout.  Here  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  begin 
to  grow  more  bold  ard  picturesque.  Lower  down  we  pass,  in  the  clear 
morning  light,  the  old  village  of  Sf.  Auffustin,  whose  first  church,  built 
in  1690,  enjoyed,  according  to  tradition,  a  very  peculiar  distinction.  It 
is  told  that  the  devil,  in  the  giuse  of  a  gigantic  black  horse  of  monstrous 
strength,  hauled  the  huge  stones  of  the  foundati(m  walls.  About  12 
miles  from  Quebec  is  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  River,  flowing  in 
from  the  south.  This  river  runs  a  wild  course  of  about  100  miles,  and 
as  it  nears  the  St.  Lawrence  plunges  down  a  magnificent  fall  of  nearly 
100  ft.  The  cataract  is  famous  for  its  picturesque  grandeur.  It  was 
by  way  of  the  valley  of  the  Chaudifere  that  Benedict  Arnold  led  his 
troops  on  that  heroic  but  disastrous  expedition  of  his  from  New  Eng- 


I 


I 


80 


MONTREAL  TO   QUEBEC. 


i ' 


land  to  Quebec.  The  Htoried  heights  which  loom  on  cither  hand  an  we 
approach  Quebec  will  be  described  in  subaequent  parngrnphs.  Steaming 
between  the  cliffs  of  Ldvis  and  the  gima  of  that  aerial  citadel  which 
guards  the  gate  of  Canada,  we  round  up  to  the  wharves  of  Quebec. 

To  duebeo  by  the  South  Shore. 

In  going  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  by  the  Grand  Trunk,  the  trav- 
eler is  carried  far  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  through  the  romantic 
and  richly  storied  landscapes  already  described  in  connection  with  the 
Richelieu  River.  It  is  a  lovely  journey,  and  should  be  taken  on  the 
day  express.  The  crossing  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  is  like  the  passage 
of  a  long  tunnel,  and  occupies  between  four  and  five  minutes.  From 
Montreal  to  Richmond,  where  the  Quebec  Branch  diverges  from  the 
main  line  running  through  to  Portland,  Me.,  the  way  is  thick  with 
thriving  towns,  and  fruitful  in  historic  memories.  St.  Hilaire,  22  miles 
east  of  Montreal,  has  excellent  black-bass  and  pike  fishing  in  June, 
July,  and  August.  The  busy  little  French  city  of  St.  Hyacinthe,  on 
the  Yamaska  Rivei\  has  some  points  of  interest  for  the  tourist,  and  a 
population  of  about  8,000.  It  has  a  college,  two  cathedrals,  and  a 
large  manufacturing  interest  in  leather,  woolens,  and  machinery.  At 
Richmond,  important  as  a  junction  town,  and  for  the  copper-mines  in 
its  vicinity,  there  is  a  village  population  of  between  1,000  and  2,000. 
A  few  miles  beyond  Richmond  is  the  growing  village  of  Danville,  with 
several  factories.  Arthabaska  village  is  of  importance  chiefly  as  the 
starting-point  of  the  branch  line  to  DouceVs  Landing,  already  referred 
to.  Near  Arthabaska  we  cross  the  river  Kicolet,  named  for  Champlain's 
brave  interpreter,  Jean  Niclot  the  peacemaker,  who  dwelt  for  nine  years 
among  the  wizard  Nipissings.  A  little  beyond  Arthabaska  lies  the 
village  of  Stan/old.  At  Li/ster,  where  we  cross  the  Bccancour  River, 
there  is  a  considerable  lumbering  business.  Twenty  miles  from  Levis 
is  a  station  with  the  musical  name  of  St.  Agapit  de  Beaurivage.  At 
Chaudihe  we  cross  the  wild  river  of  the  same  name,  already  referred 
to.  Nine  miles  farther  on  we  stop  at  the  station  of  Levis,  whence  a 
ferry  carries  us  over  to  Quebec. 

The  Canadian  Government  Railway  (Intercolonial)  has  opened  a  line 
to  L6vis.  It  runs  on  the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  to  Rosalie  Junc- 
tion, whence  it  runs  betyveei^  the  Grand  Trunk  line  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River  to  L6vis. 


I    ;; 


MONTREAL   TO    J^IKBKC. 


To  Quebec  by  the  North  Shore. 


81 


The  trains  of  the  C.  P.  R.  niu  Metween  l^iicboc  and  Montreal 
along  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  liiiwvcnco,  in  a  little  over  six  hours. 
This  is  a  riipid  and  luxurious  trip,  for  the  line  is  unrivaled  in  iiiiin- 
agement  and  e<|uipinent ;  hut  in  the  way  of  landscape  it  offers  little 
variety.  Leaving  I'itfrr  St/nurr  Sta/ioti  we  pass  the  stations  of 
JIoch('f(i(/a,  Mile  A'/**/,  aiul  Sanit  nnx  liicolhtx^  and  reach  .S7.  MurHn^a 
Junclion,  whence  the  main  line  of  the  ('.  1'.  R.  swerves  off  for  ita 
long  journey  across  the  continent.  Passing  the  junction,  we  cross  the 
north  branch  of  the  Ottawa  River  at  To'rcbomie,  whose  limestone 
jpiarries  have  huilt  Montreal.  From  JoVnitv  Junction  there  are  branch 
lines  to  a  number  of  small  towns — such  as  Joliitle^  St.  Felix  de  Vahis, 
and  St.  (iabricl  dc  Brandon.  From  Lanoruic  and  Birlhicr  Junctions 
run  short  branch  lines  to  villanes  of  the  same  names  on  the  river-shore. 
Berthier  has  a  popiUation  of  2,.')0().  In  the  neighborhood  oilA>uinevWe 
are  the  St.  Leon  Spt'inff.s^  already  referred  to.  All  these  stations  are  in 
a  level,  highly  cultivated  plain,  cut  up  into  the  long,  narrow  fields  that 
characterize  the  older  parts  of  Quebec.  This  curious  arrangement 
arises  from  the  French  custom  of  dividing  estates  equally  among  the 
owner's  heirs,  and  giving  each  portion  of  the  subdivided  farms  a  like 
river-fi'ontage.  Leaving  Louiseville  the  train  runs  through  Yaniacldche 
and  Point  dii  Lac,  and  reaches  the  city  of  Three  Rivera. 

The  St.  Maurice  Jiiver,  third  in  rank  of  the  tributaries  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  ri.ses  in  a  maze  of  lakes  and  streams  220  miles  to  the  north. 
In  the  same  wild  region  rise  the  Ottawa  and  the  Saguenay.  It  is  a 
region  visited  <.nly  by  a  few  Indians  and  trappers,  Hudson  IJay  traders, 
and  the  lumbermen  whose  axes  ring  on  the  banks  of  every  stream. 
Civilization  has  as  yet  but  touched  the  skirts  of  this  wilderness.  From 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  it  has  climbed  the  river  about  KH)  miles, 
and  ends  at  the  roaring  falls  of  the  Tuque,  lietween  this  point  and  the 
"Piles,"  60  miles  farther  down,  the  St.  Matu-ice  runs  quietly,  and  is  trav- 
ersed by  a  small  steamer.  The  lower  St.  Maurice  is  a  succession  of  falls 
and  rapids,  which  arc  avoided  l»y  a  railway  running  from  the  "  Piles"  to 
Piles'  Junction  on  the  C.  P.  R.  Below  the  "  Piles  "  the  land  lies  in  ter- 
races or  "  benches."  At  Grand  More  are  extensive  pulp-mills.  Twenty- 
four  miles  above  Three  Rivers  are  the  famous  Shawenegan  Falls,  re- 
markable for  their  beauty  and  grandeur  even  in  this  co'mtry  of  cataracts. 
The  Indian  name,  Shawenegan,  signifies  "  needlework,"  and  was  doubtless 
6 


i 


82 


MONTREAL   TO   QUEBEC. 


suggested  by  the  beautiful  play  of  colors  on  the  foaming  surface.  Just 
above  the  falls  the  river  is  split  by  a  rocky  island.  The  right  branch 
descends  with  a  direct  plunge.  The  left,  roaring  around  the  obstacle, 
meets  the  other  almost  at  right  angles.  Here  the  reunited  torrent  finds 
its  way  blocked  by  a  rugged  point.  Hurled  back  upon  itself,  the  river 
falls  away  to  one  side,  and  sweeps  down  a  rocky  trough  into  the  swirl- 
ing bosom  of  a  spacious  basin.  Into  this  same  basin  winds  peacefully, 
between  quiet  glades  of  elms  and  river  meadows,  the  Shawenegan 
River.  If  one  ascends  this  stream  a  little  way,  which  rasiy  be  done  very 
delightfully  in  a  canoe,  he  will  be  rewarded  by  a  sight  of  one  of  the 
loveliest  and  most  romantic  of  cascades,  the  Little  Shmvencgan  Falls. 
Guides  to  the  fishing  and  shooting  of  the  St.  Maurice  may  be  obtained 
at  Three  Rivers  and  other  places.  For  information  as  to  leased  waters, 
for  permits,  etc.,  one  should  write  in  advance  to  Jose[)h  Reynar,  Esq., 
Government  Superintendent  of  the  St.  Maurice  District. 

Two  miles  beyond  Three  Rivers  our  train  passes  Piles  Junction, 
already  referred  to.  '  Then  come  Champlain,  Batitscan,  Lachevrotiere,  and 
other  villages  whose  names  savor  of  old  France.  Portneuf  is  a  busy 
little  town,  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  shoes  and  wood-pulp.  Seven 
miles  from  Quebec  is  Lorette,  a  settlement  of  Christianized  Huron  Indians, 
founded  about  two  centuries  and  a  half  ago.  Beyond  Lorette  we  pass 
the  junction  of  the  Quebec  and  Lake  St.  John  R.  R.,  the  gateway  to  that 
sportsman's  paradise  which  lies  about  the  head-waters  of  the  Saguenay. 
Four  miles  farther,  and  our  train  stops  under  the  citadel  of  Quebec. 

City  of  Quebec. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  Chdteau  Frontmac  ($3.50  to  $5  a  day),  on 
Dufferin  Terrace;  the  Florence  (|2.50  to  !$4  a  day),  in  St.  John  St. ;  the 
Victoria  Hotel ;  HenchejpH  Hotels  in  St.  Ann  St. ;  Mountain  Hill  House 
($1.50  a  day),  on  Mountain  St. ;  and  Blancharf.Vs,  in  the  Lower  Town. 

Modes  of  Convci/ancc. — Street-cars  (fare  5c.)  traverse  the  streets 
along  the  river  in  the  Lower  Town  and  extend  to  the  suburbs.  A 
second  line  runs  along  St.  John  St.  in  the  Upper  Town.  Carriages  or 
caleches  may  be  hired  at  the  livery-stables,  and  on  the  cab-stands  near 
the  hotels  and  markets.  The  caleche,  a  two-wheeled  one-horse  appa- 
ratus, is  the  usual  vehicle,  and  costs  about  76c.  an  hour.  Ferries  con- 
nect the  city  with  South  Quebec,  New  Liverpool,  and  Point  Levi,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  run  three  times  a  day  to  the 
Isle  of  Orleans.  An  elevator  runs  from  Champlain  St.  to  Dufferin 
Terrace  in  the  siimmer  only. 

Clubs, — Garrison,  Union,  Castanet,  Club  de  Marchands,  Club  Mont- 
morency, Le  Carillon,  Quebec  Assemblies,  Quebec  High-School  Museum. 


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QUEBEC. 


88 


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o 


Restaurants. — Chien  d'Or,  Mercantile,  Quebec  Club,  Royal  Mail, 
St.  Peter. 

Theatre. — Academy  of  Music. 
Population  of  Quebec,  85,000. 

QUEBEC,  1757. 

(From  the  French  of  Philippe  de  Gasp^,  author  of  The  Canadians 
of  Old.  Translated  by  Charles  6.  D.  Roberts,  and  published  by  D. 
Appleton  &  Co.) 

All  eagle  city  on  her  heights  austere, 

Taker  of  tribute  from  the  chainless  flood, 
She  watches  wave  above  her  in  the  clear 

The  whiteness  of  her  banner  purged  with  blood. 

Near  her  grim  citadel  the  blinding  sheen 

Of  her  cathedral  spire  triumphant  soars, 
Rocked  by  the  Angel  us,  whose  peal  serene 

Beats  over  Beaupr6  and  the  L6vis  shores. 

Tossed  in  his  light  craft  on  the  dancing  wave, 

A  stranger  where  he  once  victorious  trod, 
The  passing  Iroquois,  flerce-eyed  and  grave, 

Frowns  on  the  flag  of  France,  the  cross  of  God. 

Among  the  cities  of  the  New  World  the  grandest  for  situation,  the 
most  romantic  in  associations,  the  most  distinctive  and  picturesque  in 
details,  is  the  sentinel  city  that  keeps  the  gates  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Nothing  could  be  more  impressive  than  the  view  of  Quebec  from  a 
little  distance  down  the  river,  unless  it  be  the  n)atchless  panorama  to 
be  seen  from  the  parapets  of  Dufferin  Terrace,  within  the  city.  Looking 
up  toward  Quebec,  or  looking  down  from  Quebec,  it  is  hard  to  say 
which  is  the  more  impressive  view.  When  one  is  ascending  the  St. 
Lawrence  he  sees  on  his  right  the  milk-white  cataract  of  Montmorency, 
descending  as  it  were  out  of  heaven  over  the  dark  face  of  the  mount- 
ains that  skirt  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  On  the  left  the 
white  villages  of  Me  cf  Orleans,  with  their  far-glittering  gilded  spires, 
nestle  in  the  deep  green  of  luxuriant  groves.  In  front  rises  the  en- 
chanting city,  tier  upon  tier  of  steep-roofed  houses  and  quaint,  precipi- 
tous streets,  breadths  of  gray  cliff-front,  and  again  the  roofa  and  towers, 
and  far  up,  on  the  summit  of  the  height,  the  grim  eyrie  of  the  ancient 
citadel.  Across  the  face  of  the  peopled  steep  run  irregularly  the  mass- 
ive lines  of  the  city  walls,  and  on  a  natural  terrace  midway  between  the 
water-front  and  the  citadel  frown  the  guns  of  the  Grand  Battery.  Near 
by  is  the  picturesque  Chdteau  Fronienac,  a  magnificent  fire-proof  hotel, 
modeled  on  the  plan  of  the  sixteenth-century  French  chdteaux,  and  cost- 


I 


84 


QUEBEC. 


ing  nearly  $1,000,000.  The  flourishing  suburb  of  St.  Roch  sweeps  off 
to  the  right  from  the  lower  slopes  of  the  cape,  and  dwindles  into  the 
villages  of  Charlesbourg  and  Lorctle.  A  little  lower  down  the  quiet 
current  of  the  St.  Charles  winds  in  silver  curves  through  the  meadows 
of  Beauport.  On  the  high  shores  beyond  the  city  are  the  dark  fir-groves 
of  Silleri/,  "  with  its  memories  of  missions  and  massacres."  The  water- 
front of  the  city  is  thronged  with  ships  whose  masts  and  funnels  ob- 
scure the  warehouses.  Ships  are  anchored  thickly  in  mid-channel,  and 
between  them  dodge  the  puffing  tugs  and  the  high  two-decker  ferries 
making  their  hasty  way  to  the  lofty  and  huddling  town  of  Levis, 
whose  heights  resound  all  day  to  the  shrieks  of  locomotives.  The  pic- 
ture is  one  whose  sublime  lines  and  masses  are  brought  out  to  the  full 
by  the  fresh  coloring  that  plays  over  it.  Under  the  vivid  and  flawless 
blue  come  out  sharply  the  pale  gray  of  the  citadel,  the  duller  gray  of 
the  cliff-face  streaked  with  rust-color  and  splashed  with  light  green, 
the  black  guns  bristling  on  the  ramparts  and  batteries,  the  brown 
streets,  roofs  of  shining  tin,  and  gilded  steeples,  with  here  and  there  a 
billow  of  thick  foliage,  the  blue-green  flood  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the 
white  and  emerald  of  the  tributary  farms  and  villages,  and  the  somber 
purple  setting  of  the  remote  surrounding  hills.  A  famous  American 
bishop  declares,  "  Only  Heidelberg  in  Germany,  Stirling  and  Edinburgh 
in  Scotland,  and  Ehrenbreitstein  on  the  Rhine,  can  contend  with  Quebec 
for  grandeur  of  situation  and  the  noblest  beauty."  The  vast  promon- 
tory which  the  city  occupies  is  called  Cape  Diamond,  from  the  innu- 
merable quartz  crystals  which  once  glittered  over  its  surface. 

Her  Winter  Carnivals,  with  their  ice  castles  stormed  by  torchlight, 
their  gay  skating  tournaments  and  masquerades,  their  unrivaled  snow- 
shoe  parades,  have  become  world-famous.  The  climax  of  the  Carnival 
is  the  assault  upon  the  ice-castle,  which,  illuminated  within  by  electric 
light,  flames  with  a  white  and  ghostly  radiance  recalling  the  dream- 
palaces  of  Kublai  Khan.  Down  the  mountain  wind  the  assailing  lines 
of  torch-bearers,  their  strange  costumes  more  strange  in  the  lurid  light ; 
and  the  spectral  citadel  is  carried  with  tumult,  amid  a  many-colored 
storm  of  rockets,  Roman  candles,  and  all  the  most  gorgeous  of  pyro- 
technic devices. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  QUEBEC. 

The  site  of  Quebec,  when  visited  in  1535  by  Jacques  Cartier,  was 
occupied  by  the  Indian  town  of  Stadacona,  which  signifies  "  The  nar- 
rowing of  the  river."    Cartier  was  received  by  the  Indians  with  generous 


QUEBEC. 


i 


hospitality,  and  by  their  aid  continued  his  explorations  up  the  river  to 
Hochclaga.  Before  starting  on  his  return  voyage  to  France  he  repaid 
their  kindness  by  kidnapping  their  head  chief  Donnacona,  with  several 
others  of  the  tribe,  to  take  home  as  trophies  and  proofs  of  his  advent- 
ure. In  1541  Cartier  came  again  with  five  ships,  but  found  no  friendly 
welcome.  His  treachery  was  not  to  be  forgotten  in  five  years.  He 
attempted  to  found  a  settlement  at  Cap  Rouge,  but  the  hostility  of 
the  Indians  lay  heavy  upon  him  and  the  effort  was  abandoned.  A  little 
later  the  attempt  was  repeated  by  the  Sieur  de  Roberval,  nicknamed 
by  Francis  I  "  The  little  King  of  Vimieu."  This  was  in  1549.  The 
enterprise  of  De  Roberval,  which  came  to  a  disastrous  end  after  a  win- 
ter of  terrible  sufferings  and  strange  disease,  has  been  made  the  sub- 
ject of  a  picturesque  and  brilliant  historical  drama  by  the  Canadian 
poet  John  Iluuter  Duvar.  With  the  remnants  of  his  little  colony  De 
Roberval  set  sail  for  J'rance,  and  nothing  more  was  heard  of  him  there- 
after. It  is  supposed  that  the  ships  went  down  in  a  storm  off  the 
coast  of  Newfoundland. 

The  real  founding  of  Quebec  was  in  1608,  when  Champlain  estab- 
lished a  post  at  the  foot  of  the  steep.  Stadacona  had  passed  away. 
Soon  a  tiny  village  stooil  upon  its  site.  Champlain  was  a  practical 
colonizer,  and  he  succeeded  where  Cartier  and  Roberval  had  failed. 
In  the  winter  came  the  scourge  of  that  strange  and  dreadful  disease,  the 
scurvy,  and  of  his  little  band  of  28  but  8  survived  to  greet  the  spring. 
In  the  following  year  Champlain  made  an  alliance  with  the  tribes  of 
the  Algonquins  and  Hurons,  and  committed  New  France  to  a  hundred 
years  of  war  with  the  Five  Nations.  For  some  years  Quebec  was  but 
a  military  and  fur-trading  post,  but  Champlain's  purpose  was  to  found 
an  empire,  and  the  foundation  of  that,  he  well  knew,  must  be  laid  in 
farming.  He  brought  out  one  Louis  Hebert,  with  his  sonin-law  Couil- 
lard,  to  till  the  soil  of  New  France.  The  families  of  these  men  struck 
deep  root  into  the  virgin  soil,  and  now  their  descendants  are  to  be 
found  all  over  the  province.  Two  of  the  quaintest  and  most  media'val- 
looking  of  the  streets  of  Quebec  are  Hebert  and  Couillard  Sts.,  which 
are  said  to  run  where  ran  the  first  furrows  plowed  in  Canada.  They 
are  straighter  than  those  old  streets  in  Boston  which  follow  the  devi- 
ous paths  worn  by  the  cows  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers.  Had  the  farmers 
come  to  Quebec  in  as  great  numbers  as  did  the  Recollets  and  Jes- 
uits, and  with  half  the  zeal  and  energy  of  these  latter.  New  Franec 
would  have  grown  as  rapidly  as  New  England.     As  it  was,  however, 


i:  I 
I 
I 


5  i 


86 


QFEBEC. 


its  growth  was  comparatively  slow,  and  the  policy  of  the  great  fur- 
trading  company  which  controlled  it  for  a  long  while  checked  its  deTcl- 
opment.     In   1629  the  infant  stronghold  was  captured  by  Sir  David 
Kirke ;  but  it  was  restored  to  France  by  the  Treaty  of  St.  Germain-en- 
Laye,  and  Champlain  again  became  its  Governor,    In  1635  the  "Father 
of  Canada  "  died,  and,  strange  to  say,  we  know  not  his  exact  resting- 
place,  for  the  records  of  Quebec  were  burned  in  the  great  fire  of  1640. 
It  is  enough  to  know  that  he  lies  somewhere  within  the  city,  and 
Quebec  is  his  all-sufficient  monument.     Quebec  may  be  said  to  have 
been  born  under  the  auspices  of  two  strangely  incongruous  powers 
— religion  and  the  fur-trade — and  the  former,  fortunately,  got  the 
best  of  it  in  the  long  run.     It  moved  rich  and  devoted  women  to 
found  such  institutions  in  the  new  colony  as  the  Hotel  Dieu  and  the 
Ursuline  Convent.     The  former  was  established  by  the  Duchess  d'Ai- 
guillon,  with  the  help  of  the  Hospital  Nuns  of  Dieppe ;  the  latter  by  a 
rich  and  beautiful  young  widow,  Madame  de  la  Peltrie,  who  devoted 
her  fortune  and  her  life  to  the  welfare  of  New  France.     To  this  day 
Quebec  is  full  of  churches,  ecclesiastical  establishments,  and  institu- 
tions of  charity.    In  1663  the  whole  population  of  New  France  was  not 
above  2,000,  scattered  thinly  along  the  river  from  the  Saguenay  to 
Montreal.    Of  these  Quebec  contained  800.    Then  came  better  days ; 
and  Louis  JXIV,  destroying  the  monopoly  of  the  fur  company,  took  the 
colony  under  his  own  control.     Immigration  was  energetically  pro- 
moted, and  under  the  management  of  the  wise  Intendant,  Talon,  Quebec 
rose  into  a  commercial  importance  which  it  took  his  incompetent  and 
unscrupulous  successors  a  long  while  to  destroy.    After  Talon's  time 
New  Fiance  was  ruled  by  several  excellent  governors,  chief  of  whom 
was  the  great  Frontenac ;  but  the  business  management  of  the  colony 
was  in  the  hands  of  the  intendants  and  abominably  conducted.    In 
October,  1690,  came  Sir  William  Phips  with  an  English  fleet,  and, 
anchoring  off  Isle  d'Orlcans,  demanded  the  capitulation  of  the  city. 
Very  short  was  the  answer  of  the  fiery  old  Governor,  Frontenac,  and 
emphatic  was  his  repulse  of  the  hostile  squadron ;  but  New  France  was 
ever  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  the  English-speaking  colonies  along  the 
Atlantic  seaboard,  and  the  citadel  on  Cape  Diamond  was  a  wasp's  nest, 
by  whose  stings  they  were  goaded  all  too  frequently.     Not  unnatural 
was  their  demand  for  its  destruction,  and  in  1711  the  task  was  again 
undertaken,  this  time  by  Admiral  Sir  Hoveden  Walker,     His  fleet, 
however,  was  shattered  by  a  storm  in  the  Gulf  of  St,  Lawrence ;  and  for 


Si 


1 

S 


QFEBEO. 


87 


I 


S 


these  two  deliverances  the  parish  cl»iirch  in  the  Lower  Town  waa  dedi- 
Ucited  to  Notre  Dame  des  Victohrn.  Durinf?  tlie  Seven  Yeiirs'  War  be- 
tween Franco  nnd  Enghind,  Quebec  was  finally  captured,  and  the 
leopards  of  England  supplanted  the  lilies  of  France.  This  took  place 
in  1759.  The  splendid  victory  of  General  Wolfe  against  heavy  odds 
has  been  brilliantly  narrated  by  Parkmnn.  On  the  26th  of  June  came 
a  fleet  under  Admiral  Saunders,  with  transports  carrying  Wolfe  and 
the  Englisli  army.  The  fleet  anchored  off  h/e  tV  Orleans,  which  at  that 
time  retained  the  name  given  it  by  Cartier,  Isle  de  Bacchus.  The 
French  army,  of  about  13,()()0  men,  under  command  of  the  illus- 
trious Montcalm,  was  occupying  the  Beauport  shore.  General  Mono- 
ton  took  possession  of  the  Levis  HeUjhtx  and  bombarded  the  city. 
On  the  31st  of  July  Wolfe  effected  a  landing  near  the  Montmorenctf 
River  and  attacked  the  French  lines.  lie  was  defeated  with  severe 
loss.  Then  followed  a  long  and  weary  delay  caused  by  Wolfe's  illness, 
and  not  until  September  could  the  attack  be  renewed.  Under  cover 
of  night  the  English  forces  stole  up  river,  under  the  guns  of  the  cita- 
del. At  dawn  of  September  i;3th  a  landing  was  gained  at  a  place  now 
called  Wolfe's  Cove,  below  SiUerif.  The  heights  above  appeared  inac- 
cessible, but  they  were  scaled  successfully,  Wolfe's  Highlanders  lead- 
ing the  way.  A  small  French  guard  on  the  summit  was  promptly  over- 
come, and  by  the  time  it  was  clear  day  the  British  line  of  battle  was 
formed  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  Montcalm  was  outgeneraled.  He 
was  still  in  camp  at  Beauport,  on  the  scene  of  his  victory,  awaiting 
another  attack.  In  hot  haste  he  threw  his  forces  across  the  St.  Charles, 
and  by  10  o'clock  the  armies  were  engaged.  The  battle  was  short. 
Wolfe  fell  mortally  wounded,  on  the  spot  now  marked  by  Wolfe's 
monument ;  and  almost  at  the  same  moment  the  French  lines  broke, 
and  Montcalm,  who  had  received  his  death-wound,  was  carried  by  the 
fugitives  into  the  city,  where  he  died  and  was  buried  in  the  Ursuline 
Convent.  The  French  army  drew  off  to  Cap  Rouge,  and  on  the  18th 
Quebec  was  surrendered  to  the  English.  In  October  the  fleet  sailed 
for  England,  and  General  Murray  was  left  in  the  city  as  governor,  with 
a  garrison  about  6,000  strong.  Now,  under  the  very  walls  of  the  citadel, 
just  back  of  the  Dufferin  Terrace,  stands  a  monument  in  joint  commem- 
oration of  the  opposing  generals  who  fell  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham. 

"  Montcalm  and  Wolfe  !  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  ! 
(Quebec,  thy  storied  citadel 
Attest  in  burning  sonp;  and  psalm 
How  here  thy  heroes  fell ! " 


|i 


88 


tilTKHKr. 


In  tlu!  following?  sprinj;  tln>  Ix'sJct^orn  been  mo  tho  bonloged.  The 
French  pononil  Do  Lovis,  witli  an  army  of  iiboiit  l(t,(»0(»  mon,  dcfontcd 
Murriiy  on  tlio  IMiiinrt  of  Al)raliam;  and  tho  Kni^lish  wore  shut  u|)  be- 
hind the  furtilioations  till  i-olicf  came  in  tlie  sliapu  uf  an  Knglisli  fleet 
on  tlie  Ifitli  of  May.  Do  Ijcjvis  witiidrow  ;  and  Hoon  afterward  Canada 
became  an  Kn<riisli  colony.  In  177ri,  durinf,'  tlio  Amoiioan  Ivovolution, 
General  lionedict  ArnoM,  with  a  small  army,  made  his  famous  march 
by  the  Vhandihr  I'ullri/,  scaled  the  heights  at  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  laid 
siege  to  the  city.  Two  weeks  later  (Jenend  Mont^omtMy  arrived.  On 
the  Hist  of  Docond)er  the  American  forces  advanced  to  tho  assault,  but 
were  repidsed  with  heavy  loss.  Tho  bravo  Montj^omory  fell  before  a 
barricade  on  Chaniplain  St.  The  house  on  Si,  Louis  JSt.  to  which  his 
body  was  taken  is  now  an  Indian  curiosity-shop,  and  one  of  the  points 
of  interest  of  the  city.  Montgomery  was  bm-icd  at  the  foot  of  Citadel 
Hifl,  but  tho  body  was  afterward  removed  to  New  York. 


J      roiNT.S  OF   INTKWKST. 

Quebec  is  often  called  the  (Jibraltar  of  America.  The  base  of  the 
citadel  is  SXi  feet  above  the  water.  Its  fortilications  cover  about  40 
acres.  The  city  is  divided  into  the  Uppir  and  Lonrr  I'oini,  which  are 
connected  by  an  elevator  Hscondinf?  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and  by  a  steep, 
windinpf  street  called  ('(>((•  dr  In  Monftujuc.  The  cliff  face  is  in  places 
insecure,  and  not  lonp  since  an  immense  nmss  of  rock  fell  away,  over- 
whclminpf  a  portion  of  the  street  below. '  Many  persons  perished  in 
this  catastrophe ;  and  now,  tho\igh  costly  onginoerlng  operations  have 
been  undertaken  to  reinforce  the  cliff,  wayfarers  who  pass  along 
Chntnplain  St.  do  so  in  fear  and  trembling.  Most  of  the  business  is 
in  the  Lower  Town,  by  the  water-side.  The  Upper  Town  lies  within  the 
city  walls  and  beyond  them  to  the  Plaiun  of  Ahrahati}^  and  comprises 
also  the  suburbs  of  St.  Louis  and  St.  John.  The  walls  run  west  from 
the  citadel  to  the  heights  ovei-haiiging  the  St.  Cfiarhs,  and  thence 
around  the  face  of  the  promontory  till  they  rejoin  the  cliffs  of  Cape 
Diamond  near  the  Governor's  garden,  a  circuit  of  nearly  8  miles. 
Some  years  ago  the  old  city  gates,  five  in  number,  were  removed,  but 
two  new  ones,  far  more  substantial  and  ornamental,  have  replaced 
them.     These  are  St.  Louis  (fate  anil  the  Kent  O'a/e  in  St.  Lhitrick's  St. 

"  The  point  to  which  the  attention  of  the  stranger  in  Quebec  is 
first  directed  is  Dufirin  Terrace,  which  lies  along  the  edge  of  the  cliff, 
towering  200  feet  above  the  river,  and  overlooking  the  Lower  Town. 


QUEBEC. 


80 


Piirt  of  it  oceiipiuH  the  Hito  (if  tlic  old  Cliiltcuu  of  St.  Louis,  built  by 
Ohiinopliiin  In  1(520,  aiul  dt-rttroyccl  by  lire  in  1h;{4.  DulTerln  Terrace, 
wliioh  wiiK  opened  to  the  public  in  June,  IMV^lj^by  the  Manpiis  of  Lome 
and  Prince.'^s  Loiiinr  \n  an  un(<<|ualed  promenade  over  ^  mile  lonj;. 
The  outlook  from  tlit-  Terrace  iH  ont>  of  the  linest  in  the  world,  and  is 
of  itself  worth  a  trip  to  Quebec.  The  h'H/itniiuilr,  near  the  St.  Louis 
(Jate,  is  another  attractive  |>ronieniide,  and  the  walk  along  the  Ramparts 
between  the  St.  Lo\ns  (Jatc  and  St.  Jolm's  (Jate,  alfords  prospects 
rivaled  by  few  in  America.  The  view  from  the  (h'dtul  Jittftin/,  near 
the  fMvnf  (fnivrrsifi/,  is  considered  by  many  to  be  liner  even  than  that 
from  DulTerin  Terrace;  and  that  from  the  vast  balcony  of  the  Univer- 
sity building  is  still  more  impressive.  The  new  liotel,  (,'liAteau  Fron- 
trnoc,  must  be  coimtcd  one  of  tire  sights  of  (Quebec.  The  J'fnce  (VArmea, 
or  Parade-ground,  is  a  pretty  Hi  tie  park  adorned  with  a  fine  fountain, 
lying  between  Diifferin  Terrace  and  tlie  Anglican  Cathedral,  which  is  a 
plain  gray-stone  edifice  surmounted  by  a  tall  spire,  standing  in  St.  Ann 
St.  on  the  site  to  which  tradition  points  as  the  spot  where  Champlain 
erected  his  first  tent.  Adjoining  the  cathedral  is  the  rectory,  and  the 
pretty  little  Chapel  of  AH  Saints.  I)es  Carrieres  St.,  running  south 
from  the  Place  d'Armes,  leads  to  the  Gnvcrnor'H  Onrdcn,  containing 
an  obelisk  65  feet  high,  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm.  Des 
Carrieres  St.  also  leads  to  the  inner  fflacis  of  the  Cikulcf,  a  powerful 
fortification,  covering  40  acres  of  ground,  on  the  summit  of  Cape 
Diamond."  * 

The  old  Market  Sgnare,  on  which  has  recently  been  erected  a  beau- 
tiful bronze  fountain,  is  in  the  center  of  the  Upper  Town,  surrounded 
by  more  or  less  striking  binldings.  On  the  E.  side  is  the  Banitica  of 
Quebec  (fonnerly  the  Cathedral),  a  spacious  cut-stone  building,  216  ft. 
long  and  180  ft.  wide,  and  capable  of  seating  4,000  persons.  The 
exterior  of  the  edifice  is  very  plain,  but  the  interior  is  richly  decorated, 
and  contains  several  original  paintings  of  great  value  by  Vandyke, 
Caracci,  Halle,  and  others.  Adjoining  the  basilica  on  the  N.  are  the 
(piaint  buildings  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  founded  in  1663 
by  5L  de  Laval,  first  Bishop  of  Quebec.  The  Seminary  Chaiiel  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1887,  but  it  is  now  being  rebuilt.  All  the  rare 
and  priceless  works  of  art  were  burned.  The  Tiaval  University, 
founded  in  1852,  occupies  three  very  imposing  buildings.     They  are 


Appletons'  General  Guide  to  U.  S.  A.  and  Canada. 


90 


QUEBEC. 


I  I 


of  cut  stone,  576  ft.  long  (the  main  building  being  286  ft.),  five  stories 
high,  and  costing  $240,000.  The  chemical  laboratory  is  spacious,  fire- 
proof, and  provided  with  complete  apparatus ;  the  geological,  miner- 
alogical,  and  botanical  collections  are  very  valuable ;  the  museum  of 
zoology  contains  upward  of  1,300  different  birds  and  7,000  insects; 
and  the  museum  of  the  medical  department  is  especially  complete.  The 
Library  numbers  nearly  95,000  volumes,  and  the  Picture  Gallery  (always 
open  to  the  public)  is  one  of  the  richest  in  Canada,  and  contains  many 
important  works  of  art.  On  the  W.  side  of  Market  Square  is  the  site 
of  the  old  Jesuits''  College  buildings.  Morrin  College  occupies  the  old 
stone  prison  at  the  cor.  of  St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  Sts.  In  this  building 
are  the  library  (14,500  volumes)  and  museum  of  the  Quebec  Literary 
and  Historical  Society,  with  its  rich  collection  of  MSS.  relating  to  the 
early  history  of  the  country.  The  High  School  on  the  Cape  has  200 
students,  an  excellent  library,  and  a  small  natural  history  collection. 

In  Donnaconna  St.,  off  Garden,  is  the  Ursnline  Convent,  a  series 
of  buildings  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds.  It  was  founded  in  1639, 
and  now  has  40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and  also  to 
painting,  needlework,  etc.  The  parlor  and  chfipel  are  open  to  visitors, 
and  in  the  latter  are  rare  carvings  on  ivory  and  some  fine  paintings  by 
Vandyke,  Champagne,  and  others.  The  remains  of  the  Marquis  de  Mont- 
calm are  buried  here  in  an  excavation  made  by  the  bursting  of  a  shell 
within  the  precincts  of  the  convent.  His  skull  is  preserved  in  the  par- 
lor of  the  chaplain.  The  Greg  JS'unnerg  is  a  spacious  building  on  the 
glacis  W.  of  the  ramparts,  and  contains  about  73  Sisters.  The  Chapel 
adjoining  the  nunnery  is  a  lofty  and  ornate  (tothic  edifice,  with  a  rich 
interior.  Near  by  (in  St.  John  St.  near  St.  Clair)  the  new  Roman  Catho- 
lic church  of  St.  John  replaces  the  large  structure  destroyed  by  fire  a 
few  years  ago.  The  IlOtel  Dieu,  with  its  convent  and  hospital,  stands 
on  Palace  St.,  near  the  rampart,  and  in  1875  comprised  45  Sisters  of  the 
Sacred  Blood  of  Dieppe,  who  minister  gratuitously  to  10,000  patients 
yearly.  In  the  Convent  Chapel  arc  some  valuable  paintings.  The 
Black  Nunnerg  is  in  the  suburbs  of  St.  Roch's.  Application  to  the 
Lady  Superiors  will  usually  secure  admittance  to  the  nunneries. 

The  Post-OJfiee  is  a  handsome  stone  edifice  at  the  corner  of  Buade 
and  Du  Fort  Sts.  On  its  face  is  the  historic  effigy  of  "the  Golden  Dog," 
Le  Chien  iV  Or,  with  its  menacing  inscription — "Je  suis  un  chien  qui 
ronge  I'os,"  etc.  (I  am  a  dog  that  gnaws  the  bone),  commemorating  a 
bitter  feud  between  the  infamous  Bigot  and  the  merchant  Philibert, 


QUEBEC. 


91 


and  the  long-delayed  vengeance  of  the  latter.  The  tale  has  been  ampli- 
fied in  Mr.  Kirby's  romance  of  "  Le  Chicn  d'Or."  Immediately  opposite 
is  the  Chien  (V  Or  lieataurant^  famous  for  the  circumstance  that  the  niece 
of  its  first  proprietor  captivated  the  fancy  of  Nelson,  then  captain  of 
the  Albemarle,  whose  attempted  elopement  with  the  *'  maid  of  the 
inn"  was  frustrated  by  a  friendly  Quebec  merchant.  The  incident 
is,  perhaps,  the  foundation  of  that  rough  sailor-song  called  "  Shan- 
nodor."  Near  by  is  the  CardinaVs  Palace^  a  stately  and  handsome 
structure.  Other  noteworthy  buildings  in  the  Upper  Town  are  the 
City  Hall,  the  Quebec  Academy  of  Music,  the  Masonic  Hall,  and  the 
Garrison  Clab,  in  St.  Louis  St.  On  Grande  Allee  are  situated  the 
Skating-Ilink,  the  Parliament  and  Depart) iiaital  Bidldings,  which  were 
begun  in  1878,  and  the  Armory  and  Exhibition  Building,  a  beautiful 
structure.  The  Court-House,  finished  in  1888,  is  on  the  corner  of  St. 
Louis  St.  and  Place  d'Armcs.  Among  noteworthy  churches  are  the 
Methodist  Church  in  St.  Stanislas  St.,  a  fine  specimen  of  the  flamboy- 
ant Gothic  style;  St.  Matthew's  (Episcopal),  in  St.  John  St.;  St.  An- 
drew's (Presbyterian),  at  the  intersection  of  St.  Ann  and  St.  Stanislas 
Sts.,  a  spacious  stone  structure  in  the  Gothic  style ;  Chalmers  (Pres- 
byterian), in  St.  Ursule  St. ;  St.  Patrick's  (Roman  Catholic),  in  McMa- 
hon  St.,  and  St.  Sauveur  and  St.  Roch's,  in  the  suburbs.  The  fine 
and  spacious  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Hall  is  in  St.  John  St.,  just  without  St.  John's 
Gate.  There  are  a  good  library,  lecture-room,  and  reading-rooms,  etc., 
opposite  to  which  is  the  Montcalm  Market  Square  and  Hall.  The  Insti 
tut  Canadien  is  in  Fabrique  St.,  and  in  Ann  St.  is  situated  the  Wom- 
an's Christian  Association. 

Just  N.  of  Duifcrin  Terrace  is  the  head  of  Mountain  Hill  St.,  which 
descends  to  the  Lower  Town.  To  the  right  is  a  picturesque  stairway, 
called  the  ChampJain  Steps,  or  Cote  dc  la  Montagnc,  which  leads 
down  to  the  church  of  Notre-Dame  des  Victoires,  erected  in  1690  on 
the  site  of  Champlain's  residence.  S.  of  the  church  is  the  Champlain 
Market,  a  spacious  structure  on  the  river-bank,  near  the  landing  of  the 
river  steamers.  St.  Peter  St.,  running  N.  between  the  cliff  and  the 
river,  is  the  main  business  thoroughfare  of  this  quarter,  and  contains 
the  great  commercial  establishments,  banking-houses,  wholesale  stores, 
etc.  St.  Paul  St.  stretches  W.  on  the  narrow  strand  between  the  cliff 
and  the  St.  Charles,  amid  breweries  and  manufactories,  till  it  meets, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Charles,  St.  Joseph  St.,  the  main  artery  of 
the  large  suburb  of  St.  Koch's.     On  the  banks  of  the  St.  Charles  are  the 


' 


QUEBEC. 

t 

principal  ship-yards,  once  so  thrivinfj; ;  and  the  numerous  coves  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  f roni  Ohainplain  St.  to  Cap  Rouge,  are  tilled  with  acres 
of  vast  lumber -rafts.  On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
the  populous  towns  of  South  Qucfxc,  New  Liverpool^  and  Levis,  which 
present  a  scene  of  activity  scarcely  surpassed  by  the  city  itself.  The 
Ctistom- House  is  reached  from  St.  Peter  St.  by  Loadcnhall  St.,  and 
occupies  the  very  apex  of  the  point  made  by  the  confluence  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  St.  Charles  Rivers.  It  is  an  imposing  Doric  edifice, 
with  a  dome,  and  a  fa^'ade  of  noble  columns,  approached  by  a  long  flight 
of  steps.  The  Marine  and  Emigrants'  Hospital,  built  on  the  model  of 
the  Temple  of  the  Muses,  on  the  banks  of  the  Ilissus,  is  near  the  St. 
Charles  River,  and  half  a  mile  farther  up  the  river  is  the  (Joneral  Hos- 
pital. This  institution  was  fo\inded  in  1G93,  and  is  under  the  charge 
of  the  niins  of  St.  Augustine.  Overlooking  St.  Roch's  suburbs  is  the 
Jeffery  Hale  Hospital.     The  Finlay  Asylum  is  on  St.  Foye  road. 

The  subiu'bs  of  St.  Louis  and  St.  John  stretch  S.  and  VV.  along  the 
plateau  of  the  Upper'  Town,  and  are  constantly  encroaching  on  the  his- 
toric P/(u'«.s  o/^-lA>v/m*».  Thoy  contain  many  handsome  private  resi- 
dences and  severu!  large  conventual  establishments  and  churches.  The 
best  approach  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham  is  by  Grande  A/lee,  which  be- 
gins at  the  St.  Louis  Gate  and  the  Martello  Towers,  four  circular  stone 
structures  erected  in  ISOY-'Ti  to  defend  the  approaches  to  the  city. 
On  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell  in  the  memorable  battle  of  September  13, 

1759,  stands  WoIfe''s  Monument,  a  modest  column  appropriately  in- 
scribed. A  short  distance  to  the  left  is  the  path  by  which  his  army 
scaled  the  cliffs  on  the  night  before  the  battle ;  it  is  somewhat  shorn 
of  its  rugged  character,  but  is  still  precipitous  and  forbidding.  On  the 
Plains,  near  the  Ste.  Foye  road,  stands  the  monument  commemorating 
the  victory  won  by  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  over  General  Murray  in 

1760.  It  is  a  handsome  iron  column,  surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue 
of  Bellona  (presented  by  Prince  Xapoleon),  and  was  erected  in  18r)4. 
About  3  miles  out  on  the  St.  Louis  road  are  Mount  Ilcrmon  Ccmeteri/, 
82  acres  in  extent,  beautifully  laid  o\it  on  irregular  ground,  sloping 
down  to  the  precipices  which  overhang  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  St.  Pat- 
rick's (R.  C.)  Cemetery. 

In  its  surroundings  Quebec  is  more  fortunate  than  any  city  in  Can- 
ada. In  whatever  direction  one  turns,  some  point  of  interest  will 
appear.  The  great  island  below  the  city,  already  mentioned  as  Isle 
d'Orleans,  is  rich  with  history  and  romance,  and  is  a  favorite  sum< 


N 


QUEBEC. 


93 


mer  resort  for  the  citizens  of  Quebec.  It  was  called  hh  de  Bacchus  by 
Cartier,  and  Mincgo  by  the  Indians.  By  the  superstitious  habitants  it 
is  still  called  Isle  des  Sorciercs,  and  is  piously  believed  to  be  the  favored 
resort  of  every  kind  of  hobgoblin.  This  superstition,  however,  has  not 
hindered  the  fruitful  island  from  becoming  the  seat  of  many  flourishing 
villages,  such  as  iSl.  Pierre,  St.  Jean,  St.  Laurent,  St.  Fereol,  St.  Francois. 
The  island  is  reached  by  a  ferry-steamer  from  Quebec. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorency. 

From  Quebec  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorency,  9  miles  below,  is 
a  delightful  drive  over  the  Brauport  meadoum  and  through  an  almost 
continuous  street  of  cottages  and  farm-houses.  The  tourist  who  prefers 
to  make  the  trip  more  speedily  and  less  expensively  may  go  by  the 
Quebec,  Montmorency  and  Charlevoix  l\.  R.,  which  runs  21  miles  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  shore  to  the  famous  shrine  at  St:  Anne,  whither 
the  pilgrims  flock  by  thousands  every  season.  Fare  to  Montmorency, 
20c.;  return,  30c.  To  St.  Anne,  fiOc. ;  return,  85c.  "  The  Montmorency 
Falls,"  says  Mr.  Le  Moine,  in  his  charming  Tourist's  Note-Book,  "are 
still  known  to  old  French  peasants  as  La  Vachc  (the  Cow)  on  account 
of  the  resemblance  of  their  foaming  waters  to  milk,  though  others  have 
attributed  the  name  to  the  noise,  like  the  bellowing  of  a  cow,  which  is 
made  by  the  roaring  torrent  during  the  prevalence  of  certain  winds. 
They  present,  when  swollen  by  spring  floods  or  by  autumnal  rains,  a 
most  imposing  spectacle.  The  volume  of  water,  though  much  less  than 
that  of  Niagara,  falls  from  a  much  greater  height — viz.,  275  ft.  Beau- 
port's  wondrous  cataract  may  be  seen  under  various  attractive  aspects. 
...  I  also  remember,  on  a  bright,  starry  night  amid  winter,  contem- 
plating in  dreamy-rapt  silence  a  novel  spectacle,  seldom  vouchsafed  to 
Quebecers.  The  snowy  cone  at  the  foot  of  the  cataract  had  been 
scooped  out  by  an  enterprising  city  restaurateur,  to  represent  a  vast, 
glittering  palace,  provided  with  icy  couches,  seats,  etc. — a  cold,  bright 
but  fitting  throne  for  the  Frost  King,  illumined  by  Chinese  lamps, 
reminding  one  of  Cowper's  glowing  description  of  Imperial  Catharine's 

Russian  ice-palace  of  1181 : 

'  a  scene 
Of  evanescent  glory,  once  a  stream, 
And  soon  to  glide  into  a  stream  again.' " 

The  Falls  should  be  viewed  both  from  above  and  from  below.  To 
see  them  well  from  above  one  must  cross  the  Montmorency  Bridge,  trav- 


94 


QUEBEC. 


erse  a  field,  and  descend  an  interminable  stairway  to  a  platform  which 
thrusts  itself  out  over  the  vei-y  face  of  the  cataract.  The  view  from 
tliis  point  is  most  effective.  To  see  the  Falls  from  below  one  must  pass 
through  a  property  formerly  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  and  descend 
the  precipitous  path  called  Z)</:tag  //ill.  From  the  foot  of  the  hill  we 
move  along  the  beach  till  suddenly  we  find  ourselves  in  the  midst  of 
the  spray  and  tumult  of  the  Fall,  and  a  gorgeous  rainbow,  so  close  that 
we  can  almost  touch  it,  is  flashing  in  our  eyes.  The  volume  of  water 
flowing  away  from  the  foot  of  the  Fall  seems  much  less  than  that  of 
the  river  before  it  has  taken  the  plunge.  There  is  a  belief  current  in 
the  neighborhood  to  the  efl'ect  that  most  of  the  river  passes  by  an 
underground  channel  beneath  the  bed  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  rises 
near  the  foot  of  Isle  d'Orleans.  At  this  point  there  is  a  bit  of  angry 
water  known  as  Lc  Tanreau,  wliioh  is  considered  very  dangerous,  and 
is  popularly  supposed  to  be  the  Montmorency  escaping  from  its  sub- 
terranean prison.  On  the  banks  of  the  Montmorency,  above  the  crest 
of  the  Fall,  stand  th6  remnants  of  a  suspension  bridge.  About  forty 
years  ago  tliis  structure  fell  into  the  abyss,  carrying  with  it  an  unfortu- 
nate habitant  and  his  family  who  were  driving  over  it  at  tlie  time.  The 
tourist  must  not  fail  to  visit,  while  at  Montmorency,  the  famous  Natural 
Steps,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  bridge,  where  the  river  rushes 
madly  over  a  series  of  cascades,  each  three  or  four  yards  in  depth.  On 
each  side  rises  d  perpendicular  wall  of  somber  cliff  whose  summits  are 
fringed  with  pine-trees.  Here  and  there  beside  the  ledges  are  green 
and  ferny  nooks,  the  delight  of  retiring  picnickers,  lietween  the 
"  Steps  "  are  black  and  swirling  pools  whence  one  may  coax  a  few  fine 
mountain  trout.  The  peculiar  formation  extends  for  over  an  eighth  of 
a  mile ;  and  every  here  and  there  some  chute  more  tumultuojis  than  its 
fellows  sends  up  a  cloud  of  spray.  Hard  by  is  the  Fairif  /iiver,  or 
JO Eav,  Tenue,  rhosc  small  stream  buries  itself  in  the  earth  to  reappear 
a  little  farther  down.  The  beach  at  the  foot  of  Montmorency  Falls  is 
the  scene  of  Wolfe's  disastrous  attack  on  July  31,  1759.  In  attempting 
to  scale  these  perpendicular  heights,  which  were  defended  by  the  most 
expert  of  French-Canadian  marksmen,  Wolfe  lost  no  less  than  500  men 
in  killed  and  wounded. 


Places  of  Interest  uear  the  City. 

J^our  miles  beyond  Montmorency  is  the  village  of  VAnge  Gardien, 
with  some  nice  trout  streams  in  the  neighborhood,  and  good  snipe  and 


QUEBEC. 


95 


partridge  shooting  in  the  autumn  months.  Yet  5  miles  farther,  and 
we  come  to  the  lovely  plum  and  apple  orchards  of  Ghdtcau  Richer. 
Here,  also,  are  good  snipe-grounds,  and  there  is  excellent  trout-fishing 
above  and  below  the  romantic  falls  of  Srmlt  d  la  Puce. 

The  rauon  iVetre  of  the  Quebec,  Montmorency  and  Charlevoix 
R.  R.  is  the  village  of  Ste.  Anne  de  Beau  pre,  otherwise  known  as 
La  bonne  Ste.  Anne.  In  1887  the  parish  church  of  Ste.  Anne  was 
raised  by  the  Pope  to  a  shrine  of  the  first  order.  Of  late  years  the 
shrine  has  been  brought  into  great  prominence  on  account  of  the 
many  miraculous  cures  which  are  said  to  have  been  wi-ought  there  by 
the  relics  of  the  saint.  The  railroad  is  kept  busy  by  the  thousands  of 
devout  pilgrims  and  more  or  less  pious  tourists  who  flock  to  visit  a 
shrine  of  such  renown.  Of  the  pilgrims,  however,  great  numbers 
come  afoot,  from  motives  either  of  penitence  or  economy ;  and  they 
come  in  all  stages,  from  robust  and  grateful  health  to  the  extreme  of 
piteous  and  supplicating  decrepitude,  and  they  come  from  all  parts  of 
Canada,  the  United  States,  and  even  from  Europe.  The  church  is  a 
repository  for  innumerable  crutches  which  have  been  left  there  by  the 
maimed  and  the  halt,  who,  having  experienced  the  healing  influence  of 
the  sainted  relics,  had  no  more  need  of  a  staff  to  support  their  steps. 
Even  the  blind,  it  is  said,  return  from  the  shrine  of  St.  Anne  with 
seeing  eyes.  The  great  day  for  pilgrimages,  and  the  most  interesting 
time  for  the  tourist  to  visit  the  village,  is  on  the  feast-day  of  St.  Anne, 
which  is  the  26th  of  July.  The  curative  powers  of  the  shrine  are  to  be 
experienced  by  kissing  the  relic  of  the  saint,  provided  the  act  of  devo- 
tion is  done  with  faith.  In  the  church  is  a  really  fine  painting  by  Le 
Brun,  representing  Ste.  Anne  and  the  Virgin.  This  picture  was  pre- 
sented to  the  church,  in  1666,  by  the  Marquis  de  Tracy.  Less  than  3 
miles  from  the  village  are  the  wildly  beautiful  Falln  of  Ste.  Anne,  made 
up  of  a  series  of  seven  plunges.  Trout  and  salmon  are  fairly  abundant 
above  and  below  the  falls. 

Leaving  Quebec  by  the  Dorchester  Druh/e  and  turning  to  the  left 
we  come  to  the  estate  of  Ringjield,  lying  near  the  spot  where  Jacques 
Cartier,  with  his  three  ships.  La  Grande  Ilermine,  La  Petite  Hermine, 
and  L'Era6rillon,  passed  the  winter  of  1535-36,  and  where  still  may 
be  seen  the  remains  of  mounds  and  earthworks  thrown  u{)  by  the  dar- 
ing little  company.  About  4  miles  farther  out,  along  the  same  road, 
lies  the  beautiful  village  of  Chartesbourff.  Eastward  of  Charlesbourg 
stand  the  ruins  of  a  famous  or  notorious  cha,teau  of  the  old  French 


96 


QUEBEC. 


type,  variously  known  as  Beaumanoir,  Chdteau  Bigot,  or  the  Hermitage. 
The  romance  of  this  historic  structure  has  been  reproduced  for  us  by 
such  writers  as  M.  Aniedee  Papineau;  M.  Marmettc,  in  his  story  of 
L'lntendant  Bigot ;  and  Mr.  Kirby,  in  Le  Chien  d'Or.  It  is  given  briefly 
as  follows  in  Holliwcll's  Guide  to  the  City  of  Quebec : 

"  At  the  foot  of  La  Montague  des  Ormes  are  the  ruins  of  Ch&teau 
Bigot,  ruins  which  can  now  but  faintly  give  an  idea  of  what  the  origi- 
nal building  was,  of  its  grandeur,  of  its  extent,  of  its  secret  passages, 
or  its  form.  Two  gables  and  a  center  wall,  or  rather  the  remnants  of 
them,  are  visible,  and  from  the  fact  of  there  being  a  sort  of  clearance, 
now  partly  overgrown,  we  may  presume  that  there  was  a  garden. 
Ensconced  in  the  midst  of  a  forest  on  one  of  the  slopes  of  the  Lawren 
tides  arc  these  relics  of  the  past,  and  one  can  not  but  be  impressed  with 
deep  melancholy  as  his  eyes  rest  upon  this  deserted  spot  and  his  fancy 
repeoples  the  shattered  halls  and  chambers  with  the  giddy  and  guilty 
throngs  which  once  crowded  them.  History  has  given  some  few  indis- 
tinct data,  arid  imagination  has  done  the  rest  for  this  story  of  the  past. 

"The  Intendant  Bigot,  whose  profligacy  and  extravagance  were  un- 
limited, and  whose  rapacity  supplied  his  requirements,  constructed  this 
eh&teau  in  the  wilds  of  the  mountains ;  and  hither,  with  companions  as 
graceless  as  himself,  he  was  wont  to  adjourn  in  every  excess  of  dissi- 
pation. The  intendant  was  a  man  fond  of  field  sports,  and  the  chd,teau 
was  the  headquarters  of  his  hunting  expeditions.  It  is  said  that  on 
one  of  these  he  lost  his  way,  and  met  a  young  Algonquin  squaw  of 
singular  beauty,  who  led  him  to  the  chslteau,  and,  being  induced  to 
enter  its  walls,  its  strong  doors  were  closed  against  her  egress,  and  she 
remained  there  a  prisoner  either  to  love  or  to  fate.  But  the  intendant 
was  a  man  of  mark  in  the  colony,  a  man  to  satisfy  the  longings  of  any 
ambitious  girl  who  might  wish  for  power,  and  such  a  one  there  was  in 
the  city  of  Quebec  who  was  determined  to  have  the  intendant  as  her 
lord,  that  she,  as  his  wife,  might  rule  in  New  France  and  punish  those 
who  had  slighted  her.  Such  a  one,  it  is  said  by  Mr.  Kirby,  in  his  his- 
torical romance.  The  Golden  Dog,  was  Angelique  des  Moloises ;  and 
she  had  heard  of  the  Indian  maid  at  Beaumanoir.  Murder  is  a  trifle 
to  such  natures  as  hers,  wholly  absorbed  by  ambition ;  and  one  night 
a  piercing  cry  was  heard  echoing  through  the  halls  and  corridors  of 
Beaumanoir,  and  Caroline,  the  unhappy  Algonquin,  was  found  stabbed 
dead.  Not  long  since  was  to  be  seen  her  grave-stone  in  a  vault  of 
Beaumanoir,  with  but  the  letter  C.  engraved  thereon.  It  is  said  that 
the  unhappy  Caroline  was  not  of  full  Indian  race,  but  that  her  father, 
by  marriage,  was  an  officer  of  high  rank  in  the  army  of  France.  Such 
is  the  story,  not  the  first  nor  the  last,  connected  with  this  place,  which 
has  been  replete  with  guilt  and  caused  much  sorrow." 


QUEBEC  TO   LAKE   ST.   JOHN. 


97 


Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John. 


r- 


I  ' 


A  grand  side  trip  to  be  made  from  Quebec  is  that  by  the  Quebec  & 
Lake  St.  John  Railway  to  Chicoutimi,  and  down  the  Saguenay  and  back 
to  Quebec  by  the  steamers  of  the  Ontario  and  Richelieu  Navigation  Co. 

The  distance  from  Quebec  to  Roberval,  the  chief  town  on  Lake  St. 
John,  is  190  miles.  The  fare  is  |!5.70 ;  return,  $7.60.  The  express  runs 
through  by  day,  which  gives  the  tourist  an  opportunity  to  see  the  land- 
scape. The  journey,  and  the  conclusion  of  the  journey,  have  been  thus 
described  in  a  small  book  entitled  Where  the  Trout  hide,  by  Kit  Clarke : 

"  A  vast  coimtry,  crowned  with  a  pristine  forest,  dotted  with 
countless  lovely  lakes  and  rivers  where  the  furred,  the  feathered,  and 
the  finny  nations  hold  high  carnival.  It  is  a  land  of  trackless  tangled 
woods,  of  myriads  of  dainty  lakes,  and  he  who  loves  the  stately  soli- 
tude of  nature  or  the  music  o2  rippling  crystal  waters,  will  find  here  an 
absolute  Utopia  of  delight. 

"  This  glorious  wilderness,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  has  been  rupt- 
ured by  a  railroad.  For  200  miles  directly  N.  it  sends  its  snorting 
iron  messenger  back  and  forth,  and  the  majestic  moose,  the  pompous 
caribou,  and  the  ruminant  ccrvus  stand  apjjalled  at  the  hideous  shriek 
of  the  brazen  fiend. 

"  But  they  don't  stand  long — at  least,  not  to  any  alarming  extent. 

*'  The  path  of  the  railway  winds  its  tortuous  labyrinth  from  begin- 
ning to  end  through  a  magnificent  unbroken  forest — an  endless,  wild, 
romantic,  fantastic  spectacle.  For  more  than  a  hundred  miles  its  path 
is  carved  between  majestic  trees,  with  no  semblance  of  a  dwelling,  nor 
even  a  hunter's  cabin  to  break  the  monotony  of  its  thrilling  isolation. 
For  40  miles  it  finds  its  crooked  way  along  the  shores  of  the  Batiscan 
River,  whose  turbulent  waters  sweep  over  immense  bowlders,  and  dash 
with  unbridled  fierceness  between  towering  wooded  mountains,  while 
no  indication  of  human  life  is  visible  along  its  entire  intrepid  course. 

"  It  is  a  journey  to  thrill  the  very  soul  of  a  man  whose  days  have 
been  hemmed  by  the  busy  hum  of  the  noisy  city,  and  a  breath  of  the 
perfect  breeze  that  sweeps  in  unencumbered  freedom  through  the  val- 
ley,  laden  with  the  odors  of  balsam,  is  health-giving  and  bracing  be- 
yond measure  and  price. 

" '  What  a  beautiful  view ! '  exclaimed  an  occupant  of  the  car. 

" '  Give  us  two  for  that  euchre  first,'  was  the  reply. 

"  '  In  the  early  evening  we  reach  the  journey's  end,  and,  after  sup- 
per, stroll  upon  the  blufE  and  gaze  enraptured  upon  a  magnificent 
sheet  of  clear,  white  water.  As  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  it  rests  like  a 
mirror,  as  quiet  and  calm  as  if  never  a  breeze  had  rimpled  its  sleeping 
surface. 

"What  a  delusion!  No  more  insolent  inland  sea  can  be  found 
upon  the  continent ;  none  more  roaring,  saucy,  and  turbulent,  none 
more  audacious  and  tumultuous  than  this  impudent  sheet  of  water, 

7 


I 


98 


QUEBEC   TO   LAKE   8T.    JOHN. 


now  so  bland,  docile,  and  polished.  Let  but  a  few  careering  winds 
fondle  its  surface,  and  the  very  essence  of  stormy  savngcncss  holds 
ferocious  carousal.  This  is  Lake  St.  John,  the  source  of  the  marvel- 
ous Saguenay,  and  the  home — the  only  home — of  the  peerless  ouana- 
nish,  the  grandest  game-fish,  the  most  prodigious  warrior  that  plows 
niche  water." 

About  10  miles  from  Quebec,  close  to  the  line  of  this  railway,  is  the 
lovely  village  of  Indian  Lorctte,  where  dwells  a  remnant  of  the  Huron 
tribe.  These  Indians  arc  civilized  and  self-respecting,  and  their  vil- 
lage wi...  well  repay  a  visit.  The  station  for  Lorette  is  known  as  Indian 
Lorette.  Lorette  occupies  a  breezy  height  450  ft.  above  tide,  and  from 
this  point  of  vantage  we  get  an  unrivaled  view  of  Quebec,  Levis,  Isle 
d'Orleans,  and  the  valley  of  the  St.  Charles.  Beside  the  village  thunders 
the  picturesque  cataract  known  as  the  Falls-of  Lorette.  Sixteen  miles 
from  Quebec  we  cross  the  lovely  Jacques- Cartier  River,  already  re- 
ferred to  as  famous  for  its  trout  and  salmon  pools.  In  the  valley  of 
this  river  is  the  village  of  Valcariier,  which  was  chiefly  settled  by  re- 
tired English  officers  and  soldiers.  In  the  village  cemetery,  deep  in 
the  heart  of  the  Laurentiau  Hills,  lie  no  fewer  than  nineteen  of  the 
veterans  of  Waterloo. 

A  few  miles  farther  and  we  reach  Lak-e  St.  Joseph,  a  fair  water 
much  frequented  by  Quebecers  in  the  summer-time.  The  lake  is  22 
miles  long  by  8  miles  wide,  and  the  mountains  that  encircle  it,  clothed 
richly  in  birch  and  maple,  beech  and  ash,  come  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  Hither  and  thither  over  its  bosom,  for  the  delight  of  the  sum- 
mer traveler,  plies  the  steamer  Ida.  The  waters  of  the  lake,  of  a  won- 
derful transparency  and  depth,  abound  in  black  bass,  trout,  and  the 
voracious  "  togue  " — a  species  of  thick-set  lake-trout  sometimes  reach- 
ing 80  pounds  in  weight,  and  to  be  captured  by  trolling.  There  are 
good  summer  hotels  on  Lake  St.  Joseph.  Five  miles  beyond,  the  rail- 
way touches  the  shores  of  Lake  Sargeant,  once  famous  for  its  black 
bass,  but  at  present  spoiled  by  over-fishing.  At  St.  Hai/mond  we  cross 
the  river  St.  Anne,  whose  valley  widens  here  to  receive  the  charming 
village.  St.  Raymond  is  the  center  of  a  great  fishing  and  shooting 
district,  and  may  profitably  delay  for  a  time  the  tourist  whose  passion 
is  for  angling.  The  village  is  built  on  three  plateaus,  and  contains  the 
workshops  of  the  railway  company.  A  little  below  the  village  the 
river  is  joined  by  its  north  branch,  which  is  known,  on  account  of  its 
severe  and  colossal  scenery,  as  the  Little  Saguenay.  About  68  miles 
from  Quebec  the  railway  enters  the  valley  of  the  Batiscan,  whof  o  course 


•ting 
ision 
the 
the 
its 
iles 
use 


QUEBEC   TO   LAKE  ST.   JOHN. 


90 


it  follows  for  a  diHtancc  of  30  miles.  Here  the  seenery  is  surpnss- 
inply  fine,  especially  at  the  points  where  the  river  is  joined  by  the 
Miffuick,  and  a  little  farther  on  b;,  ..le  Jcnnnotte,  It  is  impossible 
to  enumerate  all  the  rivers  and  lakes  which  offer  inducements  to 
the  sportsman,  but  those  mentioned  will  be  found  sufficient  for  moat 
travelers. 

In  the  same  neighborhood  is  a  chain  of  well-stocked  trout  lakes, 
leased  by  the  Laurcntidcs  Fish  and  Game  Club,  This  is  a  region 
of  fish  and  game  clubs,  many  of  which  have  commodious  club-houses 
on  their  respective  waters.  Among  them  may  be  mentioned  the  Tou- 
ri/fi,  Little  Snffuerai/,  Lac  au  Lard,  Stcidacona,  Fin  and  Feather,  Para- 
dise, Mctabetchouan,  Jacques  Cartier,  and  Lake  Quaquakamaksis.  In- 
formation as  to  these  lep.sed  waters  and  the  possibility  of  obtaining 
fishing  privileges  thereon  may  be  obtained  from  the  authorities  of  the 
railway,  or  from  Mr.  A.  Waters,  22  Fabrique  St.,  Quebec.  About  112 
miles  from  Qucltec  we  reach  the  waters  of  Lake  Kdioard,  which  is  more 
than  twice  the  size  of  Lake  St.  Joseph  and  splendidly  stocked  with  a 
peculiarly  fine  and  impetuous  trout.  The  lake  is  somewhat  more  gen- 
erally known  by  the  name  of  Lac  des  Grandes  lies.  It  is  leased  by  the 
railway  company,  and  fishing  permits  may  be  obtained  free  by  all 
patrons  of  the  railway.  There  is  an  excellent  hotel  on  the  lake,  the 
TMurentides  House,  where  camp  outfits,  guides,  canoes,  etc.,  may  be 
obtained.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  traversed  by  the  little  steamers 
Swan,  Ripple,  and  Emma  ;  but  in  its  100  miles  of  winding  coast-line 
lurk  deep  bays  and  inlets,  as  yet  practically  unexplored.  The  lake  is 
a  veritable  maze  of  islands,  in  whose  labyrinths  the  heedless  canoeist 
may  readily  lose  himself. 

A  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  from  Quebec  the  railroad  skirts 
Lake  Kiskisink  ;  and,  indeed,  all  the  way  from  Lake  Edward  to  Rober- 
val  there  are  lakes  innumerable  on  either  hand,  chief  among  which  may 
be  mentioned  Jjukes  Bouclictte  and  dcs  Commissaircs.  At  Chambord 
Junction  we  come  in  view  of  Lake  St.  John  itself.  Here  a  branch 
diverges  eastward  to  St.  Jerome ;  but  we  continue  up  the  west  shore 
of  the  lake  13  miles  farther  to  Roberval. 

Lake  St.  JohUr 

The  Lake  St.  John  Territory  extends  from  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  river  Saguenay,  at  Chicotitimi,  to  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
province  of  Quebec,  a  distance  of  220  miles,  and  from  the  sources  of 


I 


100 


QUEBEC   TO    I.AKE    ST.   .TOHN. 


the  waters  flowinp  into  Lake  St,  John,  from  tlie  east,  to  the  river  St. 
AfnKricc,  emhraein;^  the  valley  of  the  rivri'  /itifiscnii,  n  distance  of  200 
miles,  the  whole  forming  an  area  of  4l,(M»0  sfpiare  miles,  or  about 
28,000,000  aeres.  Compaiiitivcly  little  is  known  of  this  great  country, 
with  the  exception  of  the  valley  of  Lake  St.  John,  which,  within  the 
last  few  years,  has  been  colonized  with  great  I'apidity,  and  now  contains 
a  population  of  some  40,000.  The  soil  is  almost  universally  composed 
of  rich,  gray  clay,  whose  fertility  seems  wdl-nigh  inexhaustible.  The 
climate  of  the  region  resembles  that  of  Montreal,  being  more  temperate 
tlian  that  of  Quebec,  and  with  a  much  less  heavy  snow-fall.  The  lake 
itself,  called  by  the  Indians  Pihniariaini.,  or  "  Fiat  Lake"  is  28  miles 
long  by  25  miles  broad,  but  for  the  nu)st  i)art  not  more  than  80  ft.  in 
depth.  There  flow  into  it  no  fewer  than  ID  rivers,  chief  of  which  are 
the  mysterious  Pn'iltoiicn,  400  miles  long,  the  MiafaNsim,  300  miles 
long,  and  the  Ashuapmoiichmiau ,  the  "  river  where  they  watch  the 
moose,"  150  miles  in  length.  These  are  navigable  for  steamers  for 
distances  of  from'  10  to  20  miles  from  their  mouths,  after  which  they 
are  obstiucted  by  rapids  and  cataracts.  The  river  Ouiatchoiian  is 
famous  for  its  magnificent  falls,  which  lie  in  a  most  conspicuous  and 
impressive  situation  about  a  mile  from  thd  lake  shore.  This  cataract 
is  estimated  to  possess  a  height  of  280  ft.  All  these  gathering  waters 
find  an  outlet  by  one  great  stream,  called  La  Decharge  du  Lac 
St.  Jean,  which  at  Chicoutimi  becomes  the  Saguenay.  This  stream 
is  divided  by  Alma  Island,  for  the  first  8  miles  of  its  coui'se,  into  two 
branches,  called  respectively  the  "  Grmnle  Dechnrrfc''''  and  the  '■'^  Petite 
Decharge'''' — the  former  of  which  divides  with  the  Peribonca  the  honor 
of  being  the  favorite  resort  of  the  "  ouananichc." 

This  famous  fish,  wliose  name  is  spelled  with  a  truly  Chaucerian 
breadth  of  variation,  has  quite  eclipsed  in  reputation  the  other  denizens 
of  these  well-stocked  waters.  It  is  thus  effectively  and  exactly 
described  by  Messrs.  L.  M.  Yale  and  J.  G.  A.  Creighton  in  Scribner's 
Magazine  for  May,  1889: 

"  In  appearance  a  fresh-run  salmon  and  a  fresh-run  ouananiche  do 
not  differ  much  more  than  salmon  from  different  rivers.  The  back  of 
the  ouananiche  is  green  or  blue,  and  in  a  fish  just  out  of  water  can  be 
seen  to  be  marked  with  olive  spots,  something  like  the  vermiculations 
on  a  trout ;  the  silvery  sides  are  more  iridescent,  the  X-marks  are  more 
numerous  and  less  sharply  defined ;  the  patches  of  bronze,  purple,  and 
green  on  the  gill-covers  are  larger  and  more  brilliant,  and  with  them 
are  several  large  round  black  spots.    As  the  water  grows  warm  the 


QUEBEC   TO   LAKE   8T.    JOHN. 


101 


bright  hues  get  dull,  and  toward  autumn  tlie  rusty  rod  color  and  hooked 
lower  jaw  ot  the  spawning  salmon  develops.  As  the  ouananiclie,  unlike 
the  salmon,  feeds  conlinuouslv,  and  in  much  lioavier  and  swifter  water 
than  salmon  lie  in,  it  has  a  slimmer  body  and  larger  fins,  so  that  a  five- 
pound  ouananiche  can  leap  higher  and  oftener  than  a  giilse,  and  fight  like 
a  ten-pound  salmon.  The  variety  of  its  habits,  which  are  a  compound  of 
those  of  the  trout  and  those  of  tlie  salimm,  with  son)e  peculiarities  of  its 
own,  gives  great  charm  to  ouananiche-angling,  and  opportunity  for  every 
style  from  the  '  floating  fly  '  (m  tiny  hooks  to  the  '  sink  and  draw  '  of  the 
salmon  cast.  It  takes  the  fly  readily  when  in  the  humor,  though  wary 
and  capricious  like  all  its  relations,  and  fights  hard,  uniting  the  dash  of 
the  trout  with  the  doggedness  and  ingenuity  of  the  salmon.  In  railway 
and  hotel  prospections  the  ouananiche  weiyhs  fnmi  five  to  ten  pounds. 
In  Lake  St.  John  and  the  Decharge  the  average  is  two  and  a  half 
pounds ;  four-poundei's  are  large  and  not  too  plentiful,  while  six- 
pounders  are  scarce.  The  ouananiche  is,  however,  much  longer  than  a 
trout  of  the  same  weight ;  a  five-poun(ler,  for  exan)ple,  is  twenty-five 
inches  long,  twelve  inches  in  girth,  and  looks  like  an  eight-pound 
salmon.  Now  and  then  solitary  fish  of  great  size  are  seen,  old  habitants 
dating  from  ^Jes prouihra  anni'CN,''  when  '■  r<i  oi  honilfaif,  moni^imr^  des 
gro8  comme  des  curaijom^  ('It  just  boiled,  sir,  with  ones  big  as  wild- 
cats'), but  they  are  intensely  wary  and  carefully  guarded  by  the  demon 
of  ill-luck. 

"  Another  writer.  Kit  Clarke,  says  that  '  as  a  game  fish,  affording 
stimulating  sport  and  fomenting  excitement  in  his  capture,  he  is  the 
absolute  sovereign  of  the  watery  kingdom.  The  sportsman  whose  hook 
for  the  first  time  impales  the  fish  will  be  dumfoundcd  at  the  tre- 
mendous leai)s  and  fiery  struggles  of  this  heroic  antagonist.  His 
vigorous  contentions  are  astounding,  wl;iie  at  every  leap  into  the  air  he 
turns  a  complete  somersault,  all  the  while  shaking  his  head  with  the 
fierceness  of  an  eni'aged  tiger.  These  terrific  leaps  are  so  continuous 
that  one  seems  to  be  fighting  the  fish  in  the  air  as  much  as  in  the  water. 
...  In  the  spring  they  are  baited  with  raw  beef  or  the  white  meat  of 
suckers,  and  I  was  told  they  took  the  fly  in  June,  but  although  I  tried 
various  kinds  of  flics  I  did  not  get  a  '  strike '  or  see  a  rise.  Afterward 
I  learned  that  July  was  the  pr0|ier  tinu;  for  fly-casting,  and  that  then 
the  fish  rise  with  avidity.  The  lightest  fish  that  fell  to  my  rod  weiglied 
two  pounds,  and  the  heaviest  a  trifle  under  five  pounds.  In  six  days  I 
took  thirty-eight,  and  could  readily  have  taken  many  more,  but  I  had 
enough.' " 

At  Poiute  Bleue,  on  the  shores  of  the  Lake  St.  John,  is  a  reserve  of 
Montagnais  Indians,  a  most  interesting  tribe,  of  whom  Mr.  W.  H.  H. 
Murray  (Adirondack  Murray),  writes  :  "  They  are  the  '  mountaineers '  of 
ancient  times  and  wars,  and  dwelt  among  the  Laurentian  Hills.  They 
were  a  brave  stock,  and  they  and  the  Esquimaux  of  Labrador  were  never 
at  peace.  The  mounds  of  Mamelons,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay, 
could  tell  of  wars  fought  on  them  for  a  thousand  years,  could  their 


ii 


I 


102 


QUKBEC   TO   LAKK    ST.   JOON. 


saiidrt  but  speak.  The  Monta^nairt  at  Robervul  are  very  diuk  of  skin. 
They  are  great  hunters,  skilled  trappers,  great  eauoenien,  and  runners. 
They  are  a  racial  curiosity  and  worthy  of  study  on  the  part  of  the  in- 
telligent tourist,  and  the  sight  of  them  and  their  peculiarities  will  be 
entertaining  to  all."  The  tourist  who  contemplates  doing  the  Lake  St. 
John  region  and  the  Sagucnay  will  do  well  to  procure  Mr.  Murray's 
romances  of  "  Mamclons  "  and  "  Ungava." 

The  accommodations  on  Lake  St.  John  are  all  that  could  be  desired. 
The  Hotel  lioherval  is  excellent  in  all  respects.  Its  proprietor  has  se- 
cured from  the  Provincial  (Jovernment  the  exclusive  fishing  rights  of 
the  lake  and  its  tributaries,  with  the  double  purpose  of  protecting  the 
fish  adequately  and  of  affording  the  guests  of  the  house  free  fishing 
facilities.  A.  branch  of  the  hotel,  called  the  hlatid  Houhv^  has  been 
established  on  nn  island  in  the  Clrande  Dt'charge,  in  the  nddst  of  the 
fishing-pools.  If  one  does  not  wish  to  go  by  rail,  a  fascinating  and 
thrilling  canoe  trip  may  be  taken  from  the  Island  House  down  the 
tumultuous  river  to  Chicoutimi,  to  meet  the  Saguenay  stream.  Thia^ 
trip — not  designed  for  the  timorous-hearted — may  be  nuide  for  $10, 
which  includes  the  hire  of  birch  canoe  and  two  Indian  guides.  The 
Hotel  Co.  keeps  on  hand  a  supply  of  camp  outfits,  which  may  be  ob- 
tained by  tourists  who  wish  to  go  into  the  wilderness.  Such  a  wilder- 
ness may  be  reached  by  ascending  almost  any  of  the  inflowing  rivers 
for  a  verv  few  miles  from  their  mouths.  Here  arc  regions  where  not 
even  the  lumberman's  axe  has  gone,  and  where  one  may  follow  no 
footsteps  more  civilized  than  those  of  the  Montagnais  trapper.  The 
close  season  for  ouananiche  begins  on  September  15th,  and  lasts  till 
December  Ist.  The  return  ticket  from  Quebec  to  Robcrval  costs  s^'J.SO ; 
and  for  sportsmen,  in  parties,  there  are  special  reductions  made,  with 
certain  privileges  as  to  dogs,  equipments,  etc.,  to  be  enjoyed  on  appli- 
cation to  the  General  Passenger  Agent  at  Quebec.  Besides  the  ouana- 
niche, the  fish  of  the  Lake  St.  John  region,  speaking  broadly,  include 
salmon,  maskinonge,  speckled  trout,  great  gray  trout  (or  togue,  or 
touladi),  bass,  pickerel,  white-fish.  The  Quebec  and  Lake  St.  John 
R.  R.  is  a  new  road,  excellently  constructed,  and  equipped  luxuriously 
in  the  most  modern  style ;  and  one  may  ride  in  a  palace  car  into  the 
very  heart  of  these  ancient  northern  wildernesses,  so  long  imagined  to 
be  a  region  of  endless  snow.  A  branch  of  the  railroad  extends  from 
Chambord  Junction  to  Chicoutimi,  enabling  tourists  to  make  the  iound 
trip  from  Quebec  and  back  in  twenty-four  hours. 


DOWN   THE   ST.    LAWRENCE. 


108 


Down  the  St.  Lawrence  and  up  the  Sagnenay. 

The  8teamcr«  of  the  Kicholicu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Co.  leave 
Quebec  at  a  eoinfortnblo  hour  in  tlic  morning,  arrive  at  Tadotinac,  at 
tlie  Sagncnaji  mouth,  some  little  time  after  dark,  ascend  the  mysterious 
river  l)y  night  to  Chicoulhni,  and  then,  leaving  Ghicoutimi  in  the  early 
morniiif?,  descend  the  Snguenuy  by  daylight  and  afford  the  traveler  a 
perfect  view  of  the  terrific  scenery.  The  fare  to  Chicoutimi  and  re- 
turn is  $8.  The  trip  is  one  never  to  be  forgotten.  If  the  day  be  fine 
— and  if  it  is  not,  the  wise  tourist  will  delay  his  departure  and  await 
tlie  return  of  sunshine — the  journey  begins  under  delightful  auspices. 
The  transparent  morning  light  and  crisp  air  bring  out  the  full  glory  of 
tlie  enchanting  city.  Greener  than  ever  appears  Isle  d'Orleans,  more 
bcryl-briglit  the  St.  Lawrence  tide,  more  white  and  cloud-like  the  skyey 
curtain  of  the  Montniorency  Falls.  When  Ste.  Anne's  is  passed  the 
dark  mountains  crowd  forward  yet  more  forbiddingly  upon  the  north- 
ern rim  of  the  river,  rising  hundreds  of  feet,  in  places,  sheer  from  the 
water's  edge.  These  Laurentide  Hills  are  sometimes  naked,  sometimes 
clad  with  somber  forests ;  but  here  and  there  tliey  suffer  a  little  valley 
in  their  iron  fronts,  and  every  such  valley  has  its  tiny  French  village 
and  glittering  chapel  spire.  It  is  a  sterile  corner,  indeed,  where  the 
hardy  and  frugal  habitant  will  not  make  himself  a  home,  and  multiply 
till  he  has  no  cause  to  dread  a  meeting  with  his  enemy  in  the  gate. 
These  little  secluded  settlements  are  primitive  in  the  extreme,  and  re- 
produce the  Norman-French  life  of  two  centuries  ago.  The  atmosphere 
of  the  Laurentian  Hills  is  not  hospitable  to  change,  and  most  of  the 
influences  of  mutability  pass  by  on  the  other  side  of  the  river. 

A  little  below  the  foot  of  Isle  d'Orleans  we  pass,  on  the  N.  shore, 
the  promontory  of  Cap  Toitrmcnte,  towering  nearly  2,000  ft.  from  the 
water's  edge.  Then  come  the  granite  masses  of  Cap  Rouge  and  Cap 
Gnbauiie,  more  than  2,000  ft.  in  height.  The  summit  frowning  over 
Sault  an  Cochon  (surely  the  swine  of  the  Gadarenes,  when  they  rushed 
violently  down  a  steep  place  and  perished  in  the  sea,  had  no  such  leap 
as  this)  is  2,370  ft.  in  altitude.  Beyond  Cap  Maillard  comes  in  the 
Bouchard  River,  up  whose  valley  extends  the  populous  village  of  St. 
Franfois  A'avicr.  After  passing  Cap  Labaie,  the  steamer  heaves  to,  to 
meet  the  boats  which  come  out  from  the  thriving  settlement  of  St. 
PauVs  Baif.  Some  of  the  finest  scenery  of  the  river's  northern  shore 
is  about  this  point.    The  valley  lies  open  before  the  traveler's  eyes. 


N 


li 


,1 

] 

■J 
■i  li 


i:  : 


r  i 


104 


DOWN   THE   ST.    LAWRENCE. 


The  rivers  Gouffre  and  Moulin  open  magnificent  vistas  into  the  strange 
country  back  from  the  coast,  which  seems  a  sea  of  mountain-peaks. 
The  district  is  a  volcanic  one,  subject  to  tremblings  and  shocks,  and 
al)ounding  in  curious  salt  and  sulphur  springs.  It  is  said  that  in  1*791 
a  peak  to  the  north  of  the  village  vomited  smoke  and  flame  for  several 
days,  while  the  country  round  about  was  tormented  with  earthquakes. 
In  1663  the  disturbances  of  this  region  were  much  more  violent  and 
terrifying,  and  at  Les  Eboulcments  (well  named),  a  few  miles  farther  down 
the  coast,  may  still  be  seen  the  tracks  of  the  frightful  land-slides  which 
made  such  changes  in  the  face  of  the  landscape.  "  The  St.  Lawrence 
ran  white  as  milk  as  far  down  as  Tadousac ;  ranges  of  hills  were 
thrown  down  into  the  river,  or  were  swallowed  up  in  the  plains ;  earth- 
quakes shattered  the  houses,  and  shook  the  trees  till  the  Indians  said 
that  the  forests  were  drunk ;  vast  fissures  opened  in  the  ground ;  and 
the  courses  of  streams  were  changed.  Meteors,  fiery-winged  serpents, 
and  ghastly  specters  were  seen  in  the  air ;  roarings  and  mysterious 
voices  sounded  on  e\^ery  side ;  and  the  confessionals  of  all  the  churches 
were  crowded  with  penitents  awaiting  the  end  of  the  world.  ...  An 
earthquake  rooted  up  a  mountain  and  threw  it  upon  Me  aux  Coudres, 
which  was  made  one  half  larger  than  before ;  and  in  the  place  of  the 
mountain  there  appeared  a  gulf,  which  it  is  not  safe  to  ajjproach." 

This  Me  aux  Coudres  lies  with  its  head  off  Bay  St.  Paul  and  its 
lower  extremity  off  Les  Eboulementa.  Between  its  shores  and  Bay 
St.  Paul  is  Le  Gouffre,  where  the  water  suddenly  attains  a  depth  of  30 
fathoms,  and  where  the  meeting  of  the  flood  tide  with  the  river  currents 
makes  a  vast  series  of  eddies  and  miniature  whirlpools.  Of  old,  ere  Le 
Oouffre  had  got  filled  up  with  sand  deposits,  there  was  a  mighty  whirl- 
pool, or  succession  of  whirlpools,  at  the  spot,  and  it  was  indeed  "  not 
safe  to  approach,"  as  the  ancient  chronicle  declared.  The  district  is  rich 
in  iron,  graphite,  limestone,  and  garnet-rock.  The  island,  which  is  be- 
tween 5  and  6  miles  long  and  about  half  as  wide,  is  thickly  peopled  with 
a  thoroughly  mediaeval  farming  population,  the  quaintest  of  the  quaint. 
It  belongs  to  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  to  which  it  was  granted  in  1687. 

The  village  of  Les  Eboulcmcnfs,  which  we  come  to  next,  commands 
from  its  lofty  perch  a  magnificent  view  up  and  down  the  river.  Lofty 
as  it  is,  the  dark  mass  of  ^It.  Eboulement  overlooks  it,  rising  2,600  ft. 
from  the  water.  As  we  emerge  once  more  into  the  open  St.  Lawrence, 
here  about  15  miles  wide,  we  are  in  a  region  much  frequented  by  the 
white  whales,  and  may  catch  sight  of  the  great  beasts  gamboling  in 


DOWN   THE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


105 


tn 


the  waves.  If  we  do,  we  shall  certainly  hear  them  greeted  on  ail  sides 
as  *' porpoises,"  which  they  are  not.  Thoy  are  hunted  extensively  for 
their  blubber  and  for  their  skins,  which  make  an  exceedingly  valuable 
leather.     They  range  from  15  to  22  ft.  in  length. 

Broad  and  sweeping  is  the  base  of  Mt.  Eboulement,  and  on  its 
eastern  skirt  lies  the  village  of  St.  Ircnve.  Then,  passing  Cap  8ai7i,  we 
draw  up  at  the  long  pier  of  Foinl  d  Piqu^',  the  landing-place  for  Murray 
Bay,  which  is  the  most  popular  summer  resort  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  lower  St.  Lawrence.  The  bay  is  very  sl.allow,  and  the  village  proper 
(population  upward  of  3,000)  lies  at  the  head  of  it  on  the  Murray 
River.  The  summer  hotels  and  cottages,  however,  are  at  the  pier  or  across 
the  harbor,  at  the  foot  of  the  opposite  promontory,  Cap  d  PAi(/le.  The 
French  name — and  the  preferable  one — for  the  place  is  Jfalbaie,  hand- 
ed down  from  Champlain  himself,  who  called  it  Jlalle  Baiv,  on  account 
of  "  the  tide  that  runs  there  marvelously."  It  is  a  fine  fishing  center, 
as  the  Murray  River  and  the  Gravel  and  Pdit  Lakes  are  abundantly 
stocked  with  trout.     Of  this  resort  Mr.  Le  Moine  says : 

"  Of  all  the  pieturescpie  parishes  .  .  .  none  will  intei'cst  the  lover  of 
sublime  landscape  more  than  Malbaie.  One  must  go  there  to  enjoy 
the  rugged,  the  grandeur  of  nature,  the  broad  lutrizons.  He  will  not 
find  here  the  beautiful  wheat-fields  of  Kamouraska,  the  pretty  and 
verdurous  shores  of  Cacouna  or  Kimouski ;  .  .  .  here  are  savage  and 
unconquered  Nature,  and  view-points  yet  more  majestic  than  those  of 
the  coasts  and  walls  of  Bic ;  piecipice  on  precipice ;  impenetrable  gorges 
in  the  projections  of  the  rocks ;  peaks  which  lose  themselves  in  the 
clouds,  and  among  which  the  bears  wander  through  July  in  search  of 
berries ;  where  the  caribou  browse  in  September ;  where  the  solitary 
crow  and  the  royal  eagle  make  their  nests  in  May — in  short,  Alpine 
landscapes,  the  pathless  highlands  of  Scotland,  a  Byronic  nature, 
tossed  about,  heaped  up  in  the  nortli,  far  from  the  ways  of  civilized 
men,  near  a  volcano  that  from  time  to  time  awakens  and  shakes  the 
country  in  a  manner  to  frighten,  but  not  to  endanger,  the  romantic 
inhabitants." 

From  Murray  Bay  the  steamer  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence  diagonally 
to  Riviere  du  Loup  (so  called  from  the  droves  of  seals,  or  lonps- 
t7iari)is,  that  of  old  frequented  its  shoals),  a  distance  of  about  30  miles. 
Riviere  du  Loup  is  a  thriving  town  of  about  5,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  the  point  where  the  Intercolonial  R.  R.  is  joined  by  the  Temiscou- 
ata  R.  R.  The  town  is  picturesquely  situated  on  high  land  near 
the  river-mouth.  Xear  the  town  are  the  picturesque  Riviere  du  Loup 
Falls,  where  the  stream  makes  a  fine  plunge  of  80  ft.  into  a  deep,  quiet 
basin  iu  the  rocks.    Rivi5re  dri  Loup  is  a  pleasant  summer  resort,  and 


106 


DOWN   Tin-:    ST.    LAWRICNCl!;. 


is  well  supplied  with  liotcls  and  boarding-houses.  Six  miles  from 
Riviere  dii  Loup  is  the  famous  summer  resort  of  Cacouna — probably 
the  most  famous  in  Canada.  It  lias  admirable  hotel  aecommodation, 
tine  beaclies  and  seonery,  an<l  a  remaikablv  eool,  braeiag  elimate  in 
the  hottest  months.  The  chief  hotel  of  Cacouna  is  the  Si.  Lawrence 
Hall,  which  aecounuodates  OOO  f^uests.  The  Mansion  Home  ia  com- 
fortable, and  very  moderate  in  its  eiiar<ies.  Still  cheaper  are  the  numer- 
ous sunnner  boarding-houses.  Anything  but  moderate,  however,  are  the 
cab  charges  for  the  drive  from  IJiviere  du  Loup  to  Cacouna,  unless  one 
takes  tiu'  wise  preoautitm  to  arrange  terms  before  starting.  Cacouna 
stands  on  a  remarkable  rocky  peninsula  nearly  400  ft.  high. 

From  Riviere  du  Loup  the  steamer  strikes  diagonally  across  the  St. 
Lawrence  again,  for  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  passing  between  Red Isl- 
a»(/and  the  JhuDidif  /\)fs,  Tadousac,  the  ancient  village  at  the  Sague- 
nay  mouth,  lies  about  loT)  miles  from  Quebec.  It  was  visited  in  1535 
by  Cartier,  who  saw  many  Indians  tisliing  oil"  the  i)oiut,  and  heard  from 
them  a  nuuvelous  story  to  the  eH'ect  that  by  "  ascending  the  Saguo- 
nay  you  reach  a  country  where  there  are  men  dressed  like  us,  who 
live  in  cities,  and  have  much  gold,  rubies,  and  copper."  Li  1543 
Roberval  explored  the  river  and  left  most  of  his  company  in  its  awful 
solitudes.  The  mystery  lianging  over  the  fate  of  Roberval  and  his 
brother  Achille,  who  undertook  another  expedition  in  1549,  is  not 
lightened  by  the  intelligence  that  remains  of  an  aiu'ient  stockade  and 
post  have  lately  been  found  on  one  of  the  wihl  rivers  emptying  into 
Lake  St.  John,  and  that  these  are  supposed  by  souie  to  mark  the  last 
resting-place  of  the  daring  but  unfortunate  explorers.  One  can  under- 
stand the  diead  fascination  tliat  must  have  been  exerted  on  those  ad- 
venturous spirits  by  the  Titanic  gloom  of  the  great  river,  together  with 
the  strange  tales  of  the  Indians  aiul  the  reputation  of  one  of  the  tribes, 
the  Nascpiapees,  for  marvi'lous  and  inviiu-ible  powers  of  magic.  These 
Indians  are  thus  described  in  Mr.  Murray's  ronuince  already  referred  to  : 


"The  Xas(piapees  are  one  of  the  most  remarkable  families  of  In- 
dians on  the  continent,  and  of  whom  but  little  is  known.  Their  coun- 
try extends  from  Lake  Mistassini  eastward  to  Labrador,  and  frou)  Un- 
gava  Bay  to  the  coast  mountains  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  They  are  small 
in  size,  fine  featured,  with  mild,  dark  eyes  and  extremely  small  hands 
and  feet.  The  name  Xasquapees — Nascpipies — means 'a  people  who 
stand  straight.'  They  have  no  medicine-man  or  prophet,  and  hence 
are  called  by  other  tribes  atheists.  Their  sense  of  smell  is  so  acute 
that  it  rivals  the  dog's.     Spirit-rai)pings  and  other  strange  nianifesta- 


<> : 


DOWN   THE   ST.    LAWKICNCE. 


107 


te 
a- 


tions  peculiar  to  us  moderns  have  been  practiced  immeniorially  amonp; 
tlieni,  and  carried  to  such  a  shade  of  success  that  one  of  our  Boston 
seances  would  be  a  laugliable  and  bungling  affair  to  them.  Their  lan- 
guage is  like  the  western  Crees,  and  their  traditions  point  to  a  remote 
Kastern  origin." 

In  1599  a  trading-post  was  established  at  Tadousac  by  Pontgrav6,  and 
a  mere  trading-post  and  fishing-station  the  place  remained  till  modern 
times,  in  spite  of  many  attempts  to  make  it  a  more  permanent  settle- 
ment. Now  it  boasts  a  good  summer  hotel,  with  a  cluster  of  cottages  for 
sununer  visitors.  There  is  good  trout-fishing  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
sea-trout  are  caught  in  the  deep  water  off  the  shore.  A  j)oint  of  inter- 
est near  the  hotel  is  the  (piaint  old  Jesuit  Mission  Cha/jcl,  built  in  1746. 

Tadousac  lies  in  a  semicircular  hollow  among  rounded  knobs  of 
granite  and  huge  numd  hills  or  "  mamelons  "  of  sand.  These  gigantic 
sand-mounds,  which  rise  in  tiers  to  the  height  of  1,0(K)  ft.  or  more 
above  the  Saguenay,  are  supposed  to  be  the  geologic  beaches  of  the 
morning  of  the  world,  and  to  mark  in  their  successive  terraces  that 
shrinkcTC  ;  ^  tl>e  waters  by  which  the  earth's  sui-face  came  to  view.  A 
little  east  ,\  •  village  lie  the  red  granite  masses  of  Point  Jiouffe,  and 
beyond  ti;....i  tiie  white  marble  of  Moulin  d  Bnnde.  In  the  ravines  be- 
hind and  on  the  gentler  slopes  are  forests  of  spruce  and  birch,  and  the 
fathomless  sand  of  the  "  mamehms  "  slides  down  through  the  village  to 
the  sea-green  water  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Close  on  the  western  edge  of 
the  village  yawn  the  black  jaws  of  the  Saguenwi,  As  the  steamer, 
crossing  from  Riviere  du  Loup,  ajiproachcs  Tadousac  wharf  by  moon- 
light, the  scene  is  one  never  to  be  forgotten. 

The   Saguenay. 

If  the  night  is  fine,  and  the  moon  high  in  the  heavens,  the  traveler 
will  linger  late  on  deck.  A  detailed  impression  of  the  Saguenay  he 
will  receive  while  descending  it  by  daylight  on  the  following  day ;  but 
during  this  night  ascent  he  may  experience  to  the  full  the  influence  of 
its  monotonous  and  awful  majesty.  Over  the  still  surface  of  ebony 
and  silver,  between  the  endless  and  unvarying  walls  of  soaring  rock, 
the  boat  climbs  northward  deeper  and  deeper  into  this  land  of  mystery. 
Wrapped  in  one's  rug — for,  though  it  is  Jidy,  an  icy  wind  draws  down  out 
of  the  north  through  this  great  trough — and  crouching  high  in  the 
l)row,  one  feels  as  if  he  were  on  a  journey  never  before  attempted  by 
man — as  if  he  were  about  to  exj)lore  the  fabled  lake  of  Mistassini,  or 
venture  with  Jason  and  his  fellows  on  the  ship  Argo.     Here  and  there 


108 


THE   SAGUENAY. 


a  great  star  peers  curiouslj"  down  throuj^h  some  high  notch  in  the  river- 
wall,  or  some  far  cascade,  the  overflow  of  a  mountain-pool,  flashes 
whitely  in  the  moonlight  for  a  moment  as  it  plunges  from  one  darkness 
to  another.  When  the  colossal  gloom  and  grandeur  of  the  scene  have 
begun  to  oppress  the  spirit,  the  traveler  will  do  well  to  turn  into  his 
berth,  leaving  directions  to  be  called  as  the  steamer  approaches 
Chicoutimi.  This  will  be  about  daybreak ;  and  as  the  steamer  usually 
remains  an  hour  or  two  at  the  wharf,  there  is  time  to  go  ashore  and 
see  the  village.  The  best  possible  thing  to  do  is  to  climb  the  rocky 
height  behind  the  village,  and  watch  the  sun  rise  in  severe  splendor 
over  the  bald  Saguenay  hills,  liut,  before  undertaking  this,  find  out 
from  the  captain  cxadlif  how  long  the  steamer  is  going  to  stay  on  that 
particular  trip,  lest  it  happen,  as  it  did  once  to  the  present  writer,  that 
while  you  are  admiring  the  sunrise  from  the  hill-top  the  steamer  depart 
without  you,  and  leave  you,  perchance  in  marked  deshabille,  to  linger 
shivering  in  Chicoutimi  till  the  coming  of  the  next  boat,  or  to  drive 
wildly  over  the  hill-tops  in  a  mad  French-Canadian  "  buck-board,"  to 
endeavor  to  overtake  the  truant  steamer  at  Ha  Ha  Bay.  When  this 
mishap  befell  me,  with  a  friend  who  was  in  the  same  predicament,  the 
latter  course  was  chosen ;  the  drive  was  a  cold  one,  for  our  attire  was 
hasty  and  informal,  and  a  desperate  one,  for  the  road  was  astoundingly 
precipitous  and  diversified,  the  Canadian  pony  as  nimble  and  erratic  as 
a  goat,  and  the  "  buck-board "  driver  regardless  of  consequences  so 
long  as  he  earned  the  promised  fee.  But  the  experience  M'as  novel  and 
thrilling;  and  we  got  there  in  time  to  sit  on  the  wharf  at  St.  Alphonse 
and  smile  at  the  steamer  blandly  as  she  came  in. 

The  town  of  Chicoutimi,  now  connected  with  Roberval,  on  Lake 
St.  John,  by  rail,  is  a  center  of  the  lumber-trade.  It  is  a  growing 
place  and  possesses  good  hottl  acconmiodaticms.  Its  trade  is  largely 
in  the  hands  of  the  great  lumbering  firm  of  the  Prices,  the  head  of 
which,  Senator  Price,  of  Quebec,  is  known  as  the  "  King  of  the  Sa- 
guenay." Close  to  the  town  the  Chicoutimi  River  joins  the  Saguenay 
by  a  fall  about  50  feet  in  height.  This  river  is  an  outlet  of  Lake  Ke- 
nogami,  and  affords  capital  fisiiing  for  trout  and  salmon.  The  name 
Chicoutimi  signifies  deep  water. 

From  Chicoutimi  to  the  Mouth. 

The  Saguenay  can  hardly  be  called  a  river.  It  is  rather  a  stupen- 
dous chasm,  from  1  to  2^  miles  in  width,  doubtless  of  earthquake  ori- 


tfip:  saguenay. 


109 


gin,  cleft  for  65  miles  through  the  high  Laiirentian  plateau.  Its  walls 
are  an  almost  unbroken  line  of  naked  cliffs  of  syenite  and  gneiss.  Its 
depth  is  many  hundred  feet  greater  than  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence ; 
indeed,  if  the  St.  Lawrence  were  drained  dry,  all  the  fleets  of  the 
world  might  float  in  the  abyss  of  the  Saguenay,  and  yet  find  anchorage 
only  in  a  few  places.  Of  mere  soft  beauty  the  Saguenay  landscape 
can  show  none,  save  in  one  or  two  valleys  where  tributary  streams 
flow  in.  It  has  been  called,  indeed,  the  River  of  Death.  Silence, 
nakedness,  and  awe  brood  over  it.  Its  grim  solitudes  are  shunned 
by  bird  and  insect.  The  profound  unmoving  waters,  on  account  of 
their  great  depth,  appear  as  black  as  pitch,  with  purple  gleams  in 
the  sunlight,  and  are  broken  only  where  the  back  of  a  white  whale 
rises  for  a  moment  into  view.  Its  overpowering  sublimity  and  meas- 
ureless dejolation  become  oppressive  to  some  visitors.  A  writer  in  the 
London  Times  calls  it  "  Nature's  sarcophagus,"  and  declares  that, 
*'  compared  to  it,  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming."  The  same  writer  con- 
tinues as  follows :  "  The  Saguenay  seems  to  want  painting,  blowing 
up,  or  draining — anything,  in  short,  to  alter  its  morose,  quiet,  eternal 
awe.  Talk  of  Lethe  or  the  Styx — they  must  have  been  purling  brooks 
compared  with  this  savage  river ;  and  a  picnic  on  the  banks  of  either 
would  be  preferable  to  one  on  the  banks  of  the  Saguenay."  The  name 
Saguenay  is  variously  and  most  unsatisfactorily  derived  from  "  St.  Jean 
Nez "  and  from  the  Indian  Saggishsekuss,  meaning  a  "  river  whose 
banks  are  precipitous."  We  are  prepared  for  any  derivation,  however, 
when  we  remember  th.at  the  village  of  Des  Joachims  on  the  L^pper 
Ottawa  is  popidarly  called  "  Swishaw." 

From  Chicoutimi,  as  far  as  the  mighty  inlet  of  Ha  Ha  Bat/,  the 
scenery  is  bold  indeed,  but  less  gigantically  so  than  that  which  greets 
the  traveler  farther  down.  Ha  Ha  Bay  runs  1  miles  in  between 
the  mountains,  and  ends  in  a  spacious  haven  whose  shores  are  lined 
with  the  meadows  of  St.  Alphonse.  The  mountains  that  encircle  the 
harbor  are  bright  with  red  and  oiange  stains  dashed  capriciously  across 
their  bare  front.  A  little  way  below  Ha  Ha  Hay  we  pass,  on  the  right 
shore,  a  cliff  900  feet  high,  called  Le  7'ablcaH  from  its  great,  perfectly- 
smoothed,  square  front,  like  a  canvas  stretched  for  painting.  Farther 
down  on  the  same  shore  is  IStntiie  Point,  "  where,  at  about  1,000  feet 
above  the  water,  a  huge,  rough  (lothic  arch  gives  entrance  to  a  cave, 
in  which,  as  yet,  the  foot  of  man  has  never  trodden.  Before  the  en- 
trance to  this  black  aperture,  a  gigantic  rock,  like  the  statue  of  some 


il 


ti 


It 


110 


THE   8AGUENAY. 


I'ead  Titan,  once  stood.  A  few  years  ago,  during  the  winter,  it  gave 
way,  and  the  monstrous  statue  came  crashing  down  through  the  ice 
of  the  Saguenay,  and  left  bare  to  view  the  entrance  to  the  cavern 
it  had  guarded  perliaps  for  ages." 


tl    f 


Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity. 

Having  left  behind  Statue  Point  we  approach  the  climax  of  Sague- 
nay  scenery,  the  twin  Capes  Trinity  and  Eternity.  These  giant 
cliffs,  the  one  1,600  the  other  1,800  ft,  in  height,  watch  each  other 
across  the  black  gulf  of  Eternity  Bay,  a  narrow  fiord  wherein  the  soand- 
ing-linc  must  descend  1,000  ft.  to  reach  the  bottom.  The  dreadful  sub- 
limity of  these  promontories,  springing  sheer  from  the  black  depths  of 
the  mysterious  river,  compels  the  reverence  of  the  most  indifferent. 
The  northernmost  cape  justifies  its  name  of  Cape  Trinity  as  we  ap- 
proach it  from  up  the  river  and  observe  that  it  consists  of  three  mighty 
precipices,  each  500  ,or  600  ft.  in  height,  piled  one  upon  the  other,  and 
fringed  along  the  beetling  top  with  windblown  pines.  On  the  side 
overlooking  Eternity  Bat/  the  aspect  of  the  cape  is  different  and  vastly 
more  terrible.  The  steamer  rounds  in  so  close  to  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pice that  one  feels  as  if  he  could  toss  a  pebble  up  against  the  wall  of 
rock ;  but  for  a  time  no  one  is  so  hardy  as  to  attempt  it — it  would  seem 
like  sacrilege.  The  noisy  crowd  on  the  steamer's  deck  is  hushed  with  awe 
as  all  eyes  strain  upward  toward  the  dizzy  height  which  seems  to  reel 
and  topple  above  them,  as  if  it  would  descend  and  close  the  gap.  When 
the  instinctive  tremor  of  apprehension  has  soniewhat  passed  away,  a 
few  of  the  passengers  usually  attempt  to  throw  a  stone  across  the  in- 
tervening space.  As  the  missile  is  launched  vigorously  into  the  air,  it 
seems  as  if  it  would  strike  well  up  on  the  face  of  the  cliff,  but  the  eye 
is  utterly  deceived  by  the  stupendous  mass  before  it,  and  the  stone  cast 
by  the  most  vigorous  thrower  falls  into  the  water,  as  if  repelled  by  the 
cliff,  before  it  has  traveled  half  the  distance.  Cape  Eternity  is  per- 
haps 200  ft.  higher  than  its  terrible  sister,  but  it  deigns  to  slope  a 
little  back  from  the  water  and  to  clothe  its  sublime  proportions  in  a 
wealth  of  forest  green.  After  having  been  staggered  by  the  imminent 
horror  of  Cape  Trinity  the  eye  rests  with  delight  on  the  serene  and 
stable  grandeur  of  its  colossal  mate.  Between  the  capes  there  is  a 
remarkable  echo,  which  is  usually  tested  by  blowing  the  steamer's 
whistle  or  discharging  a  gun.      When  the  Flying-Fish  conveyed  the 


THE   SAOUENAY. 


Ill 


a 
a 


a 


Prince  of  Wales  up  the  river,  one  of  her  heavy  68-pounder8  was  dis- 
charged near  Cape  Trinity.  "  For  the  space  of  half  a  minute  or  so 
after  the  discharge  there  was  a  dead  silence,  and  then,  as  if  the  report 
and  concussion  were  hurled  back  upon  the  decks,  the  echoes  came  down 
crash  upon  crash.  It  seemed  as  if  the  rocks  and  crags  had  all  sprung 
into  life  under  the  tremendous  din,  and  as  if  each  was  firing  iiS-pound- 
ers  full  upon  us  in  sharp,  crushing  \olIcys,  till  at  last  they  grew  hoarser 
and  hoarser  in  their  aufor,  a!>''  "etreated,  bellowing  slowly,  carrying 
the  tale  of  invaded  solii  ,;  fiv,.  '11  to  hill,  till  all  ♦^hc  ''.■•'  it  mount- 
ains seemed  to  roar  and  groan  at  me  intrusion," 

About  6  miles  below  Cape  Trinity  the  clills  part  to  make  room  for 
St  John's  B((fi,  which  has  a  little  village  at  its  head,  and  water  shallow 
enough  to  give  ships  an  anchorage.  Four  miles  farther  down  flows  in 
a  second  LUtlc  Siu/uennn  JUvcr,  which  drains  a  wilderness  swarming 
with  trout  and  game.  Then  comes  Jiirierc  ai/x  Canards,  with  a  num- 
ber of  grim  and  inhospitable  islands  cUustered  off  its  mouth.  A  little 
farther  down  is  Me  St.  Louis,  a  ridge  of  granite  half  a  mile  in  length 
thrust  up  out  of  1,200  ft.  of  water.  These  deeps  swarm  with  salmon- 
trout.  Over  against  the  islet,  on  the  right  shore,  stand  out  the  grand 
promontories  of  Cape  Victoria  and  Cape  Ceoryc,  Looking  northward 
from  this  point  one  of  the  most  magnificent  views  on  the  rivers  is 
opened  before  us.  Two  miles  below  we  are  astonished  by  the  sight  of 
some  low  land,  bordering  the  mouth  of  the  iSV^".  Margutrite,  which  is 
the  Saguenay's  chief  tributary  and  a  splendid  salmon  stream.  Passing 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  Athanasc  and  Point  Crepe  we  come  to  St.  Etiennc 
Bay,  with  a  little  tilled  soil  about  its  rim.  Xow  the  cliffs  draw  closer 
together,  and  the  views  are  more  restricted ;  and  leaving  behind  the 
Passe  Pierre  Isles  we  reach  a  towering  cape  of  granite  called  Pohite 
la  Boule,  which  thrusts  itself  out  as  if  to  bar  our  way.  Toward  dusk 
we  pass  L^Aiise  a  L'Eau,  then  Tadousac,  and  find  ourselves  once 
more  upon  the  breast  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  descended  from 
Chicoutimi  67  miles  exactly.  From  Tadousac  to  Quebec  is  a  distance 
of  135  miles,  and  we  traverse  it  by  night,  arriving  at  Quebec  in 
comfortable  time  for  breakfast. 

To  the  Maritime  Provinces  by  Rail. 

The  railway  routes  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  are  by  the  Intercolo- 
nial Railway  from  Montreal,  which  runs  down  the  south  shore  of  the 


,  : 


I  .1' 


! 


1 


■I 


112 


MONTREAL   TO    THE    MARITIME    IMJOVINCEH. 


St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  Riniouski,  then  turns  soutli  and  follows  the  valley 
of  the  wild  Mcftii>r<li<t  to  the  junction  of  this  river  with  the  Ii'esfiffouc?ie, 
crossing  wliicli  we  are  in  New  lJrunswiel\,  and  by  the  Quebec  Central 
to  Mejiantic,  wliore  connection  is  made  with  the  C.  1*.  II.  Short  Line. 
Another  route  to  be  described  presently  is  by  steamship  w/a  Gaspe  ami 
the  gulf  coa-t.  The  three  .Maritime  Provinces  of  Canada  are  Nova 
Scotia,  NeAV  Brunswick,  and  Prince  EdAvard  Island,  and  the 
Intercolonial  Ry.  traverses  them  all.  It  is  a  government  road,  admira- 
bly built  and  efjuippcd,  and  most  moderate  in  its  charges.  It  runs 
through  some  of  the  best  fishing  and  shooting  districts  of  the  continent 
and  some  very  beautiful  landscapes.  The  cars  on  through  express 
trains  are  lighted  by  electricity  and  heated  by  steam  from  the  loco- 
motive. The  head-offices  of  the  railway  are  at  Moncton,  New  Bruns- 
wick, and  information  may  be  obtained  by  communicating  with  the 
General  Passenger  Agent  at  Moncton,  or  the  Government  Railway 
Ticket-Office,  143  St.  James  St.,  Montreal. 

Passengers  for  the  Maritime  Provinces  leave  Montreal  by  the  Inter- 
colonial Ry.,  which  now  opc-'ates  the  shortest  line  between  Montreal 
and  Quebec  (163  miles),  by  way  of  Levis.  As  the  train  leaves  Levis  we 
get  a  last  glimpse  of  the  Falls  of  >Iontmorcncy  across  the  river.  Five 
miles  from  Levis  we  pass  Harlaka  Jtnicfion,  and  9  miles  farther  St. 
Charles  Junctmi.  The  next  half-dozen  stations  are  named  for  as 
many  saints.  The  most  important  of  them  arc  the  lumbering  village 
of  St.  Mic/nl,  whose  church  contains  some  valuable  paintings,  and  Mont- 
rnagmj,  a  town  of  abotit  2,000  inhabitants,  the  seat  of  a  convent  and 
of  Montmagny  College.  High  over  the  town  towers  its  great  parish 
church.  At  this  point  there  is  a  fine  though  not  lofty  cataract,  where 
the  Riviere  die  Snd  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  These  falls  are  the 
scene  of  a  thrilling  episode  in  De  Gaspe's  romance.  The  Canadians 
of  Old.''  The  villages  of  Cap  St.  /(/nace,  L^ Islet,  and  Trois  Saumona 
are  interesting  for  their  connection  with  the  same  romance,  the  scene 
of  which  is  laid  chiefly  about  the  next  sfopping-place,  the  romantic 
little  village  of  St.  Jenn  Port  Joli,  59  miles  from  Levis.  The  next 
station  of  imi)ortance  is  at  the  thriving  town  of  Ste.  Anne  dc  la  Poca- 
tiere,  the  scat  of  a  large  educational  institution  known  as  Ste.  Anne's 
College,  which  is  attended  by  several  hundred  students,  and  has  an 
Agricultural  College  and  Model  Farm  connected  with  it.  The  so-called 
porpoise  fisheries  of  Riviere  Onclle,  the  next  stopping-place,  have  been 
flready  referred  to,      Here  dwells  the  well-known  French-Canadian 


b 


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lontreal 

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r.     Five 

ther  St. 

for  as 

village 

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parish 

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i,  [\ 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARITIME    PROVINCES.         113 


historian,  the  Abb6  Casgraln.  In  1690  the  cure  of  Rividre  Ouelle,  at 
the  head  of  a  band  of  his  parishioners,  defeated  the  New-Englanders  of 
Sir  William  Phipps's  expedition.  Here  the  railway  leaves  the  shore 
for  a  few  miles,  and  when  it  rejoins  the  river  the  Kamouraska  hlandt 
are  in  sight  just  off  the  coast.  The  lovely  village  of  Kamouraska^  with 
its  great  church  and  convent,  was  a  favorite  summer  resort  before  the 
stream  of  travel  turned  to  Caeouna,  The  station  on  the  Intercolonial 
nearest  to  Kamouraska  is  St.  Paschal.  The  next  important  stopping- 
place  is  Riviere  du  Loup,  which  has  been  already  described.  This 
town  is  116  miles  from  L^vis.  The  traveler  who  wishes  to  go  directly 
to  the  upper  waters  of  the  nver  St.  John,  and  the  splendid  trout- 
streams  of  Lake  Temiscouata  and  the  Squattooks,  may  here  branch  oflf 
by  the  Temiscouata  R.  R.,  which  runs  through  the  district  in  ques- 
,-tion  and  joins  the  Vanceboro,  Woodstock,  and  Edmundston  line  of 
the  Canadian  Pacific  at  Edmundston,  on  the  St.  John.  Five  miles 
beyond  Riviere  du  Loup  is  Cacouna,  already  described.  Then  the 
next  station  of  importance  is  Trois  Pistoles,  142  miles  from  Quebec. 
Here  the  trains  stop  for  refreshments,  and  in  the  well-kept  dining- 
hall  of  the  station  one  may  often  feast  on  delicious  f ret  .i-caugbt  trout. 
The  village  stands  on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  and  there  is  a  tra- 
dition in  regard  to  this  name.  It  is  said  that  in  the  year  1700,  while 
the  river  was  yet  nameless,  a  traveler  rode  up  to  its  shore  and  asked  a 
solitary  fisherman  what  he  would  take  to  ferry  him  across.  "  Trois 
pistoles,"  was  the  reply.  "  What  is  the  name  of  this  river  ?  "  asked 
the  traveler.  "  It  has  none,"  said  the  fisherman.  "  Then  name  it 
Trois  Pistoles,"  said  the  traveler.  Trois  pistoles  means  three  ten- 
franc  pieces. 

At  St.  Fahien,  18  miles  beyond  Trois  Pistoles,  there  is  good  trout- 
fishing  from  early  in  June  to  the  end  of  August  in  small  lakes  a  mile 
or  two  from  the  station.  The  next  stopping-place  is  at  the  summer 
resort  of  Bic,  situated  on  a  picturesque  and  beautiful  bay.  The  hills 
around  Bic  are  1,800  ft.  high,  and  out  of  their  ravines  descend,  in 
many  cascades,  two  small  rivers  to  mingle  with  the  waters  of  the  bay. 
Off  the  coast  is  Bic  Island,  once  intended  to  be  made  an  impreg- 
nable fortress  as  a  harbor  of  refuge  for  the  French  navy.  In  1861, 
when  the  Trent  difficulty  threatened  to  cause  a  rupture  between  Eng- 
land and  the  United  States,  English  troops  were  landed  at  Bic.  Near 
by  is  V  Islet  au  Massacre,  where  once  200  Micmac  Indians,  while  asleep 
in  a  cave,  were  surprised  by  their  inveterate  enemies  the  Mohawks. 
8  "'■'•- 


V 


114 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARITIME    PROVINCES. 


il^ 


The  Mohawks  stealthily  filled  the  mouth  of  the  cave  with  dry  wood, 
then  Bet  it  on  tire,  and  slew  every  Micuiac  that  succeeded  in  making  hlB 
escape  through  the  flames.  Ten  miles  beyond  Bic  is  the  important 
station  of  Rimoaski,  an  incorporated  town  with  a  large  and  growing 
trade,  a  popular  summer  resort,  and  a  port  of  call  for  ocean  steamers, 
where  passengers  and  mail  from  the  Maritime  Provinces  embark  or  land 
as  the  case  may  be.  Rimouski  has  good  hotels,  a  fine  Roman  Catholic 
cathedral,  a  college,  and  important  public  buildings.  In  the  Rimouski 
River  and  lakes  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  town  there  are  excellent 
trout  and  salmon  fishing.  Rimouski  is  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
bishop,  and  is  sometimes  called  the  metrojrolis  of  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence. Five  miles  beyond  Rimouski  is  St.  Atiaclef,  the  station  for 
Father  Point,  where  outward-bound  vessels  discharge  their  pilots.  At 
Ste.  Flavie,  a  railway  divisional  center  198  miles  from  Quebec,  the 
railway  sweeps  off  southward  from  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  is  excel- 
lent trout-fishing  in  July  in  lakes  about  Ste.  Flavie.  Presently  it  crosses 
the  famous  fishing  waters  of  the  Afctis.  At  the  station  of  Little  Metis, 
6  miles  back  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  one  is  within  easy  reach  of  a  num- 
ber of  excellent  trout  lakes.  The  best  months  for  fishing  in  these 
waters  are  April  and  July,  and  the  hotel,  like  the  guides,  will  charge 
about  a  dollar  a  day.  Two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  miles  from  Que- 
bec lies  the  little  village  of  Saifabec,  near  which  we  strike  the  waters 
of  Lake  Metapedia.  There  are  no  regular  hotels  in  the  village,  but 
board  may  be  obtained  of  some  of  the  villagers,  who  also  may  be  hired 
to  act  as  guides.  There  is  good  trout-fishing  in  the  lake,  in  the  winter 
months  through  the  ice,  and  also  in  June.  The  next  two  stations, 
Cedar  Hall  and  Amqui,  8  miles  apart,  both  afford  excellent  fishing. 
The  village  hotel  charges  are  moderate.  At  Cedar  Hall  the  fishing  is 
in  Lake  Metapedia  and  the  Metane  River,  and  the  best  months  are 
June,  July,  and  September.  At  Amqui  the  fishing,  both  for  trout  and 
salmon,  is  in  the  Amqui  and  Metapedia  Rivers,  and  the  best  months 
are  June,  July,  and  August.  Fourteen  miles  beyond  Amqui  is  the 
famous  fishing  resort  of  Cansapscal.  Here  there  is  splendid  salmon- 
fishing  in  the  Metapedia  River,  which  flows  close  by  the  station ;  and 
in  Lakes  Angus,  Michaud,  and  Causapscal  the  trout  are  large  and 
abundant.  The  Metapedia,  like  most  other  really  famous  salmon 
streams,  is  leased  to  private  persons.  Names  of  leaseholders,  and 
limits  of  their  respective  territories,  etc.,  may  be  obtained  by  communi- 
cating with  the  Fisheries  Commissioner  of  the  Province  in  which  the 


dry  wood, 
imking  his 
iinpoi*tant 
;d  growing 
steamers, 
irk  ur  land 
n  Catholic 
'  Kimouski 
B  excellent 
n  Catholic 
r  St.  Law- 
tation  for 
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iiebec,  the 
i  is  excel- 
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ittle  Aletisy 
of  a  num- 
;  in  these 
ill  charge 
from  Que- 
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fishing, 
fishing  is 
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irge  and 
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■ers,  and 
inmuni- 
bich  the 


111 


5 

5 


I 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARITIME   PROVINCES. 


115 


;! 


water  lies.  June  is  the  best  month  for  the  salmon,  while  the  trout  rise 
best  to  the  fly  in  June  and  August.  Board  is  to  be  had  in  private 
houses. 

As  the  train  winds  for  hours  down  the  tortuous  valley  of  the  Meta- 
pedia,  the  scenery  from  the .  car-window  is  enchanting.  Sometimes 
close  beside  the  track,  sometimes  far  below,  the  amber  river  foams 
and  darts,  now  leaping  a  low  fall,  now  swirling  slowly  in  a  deep  and 
salmon-haunted  pool,  now  laughing  and  rippling  over  wide,  shallow 
reaches,  where  the  white  quartz  pebbles  shine  through  the  sunlit  wa- 
ter. The  river  is  fringed  through  most  of  its  course  with  birch  and 
elder  and  moose-wood  .and  mountain-ash;  and  the  hills  v.hich  rise  in 
majestic  slopes  on  either  hand,  cleft  here  and  there  by  the  gorge  of 
a  winding  mountain  stream,  are  clothed  richly  with  forests  of  birch 
and  fir.  In  the  autumn  these  hills  are  yellow  as  gold,  and  the  heavy 
clusters  of  the  mountain-ash  berries  shine  along  the  water's  edge  in 
vivid  vermilion.  Along  this  valley  the  stations  are  few  and  far  be- 
tween. The  nearest  to  Causapscal  is  Pleasant  Beach,  and  then  comes 
Assametquaffhan.  Passing  Mill  Stream  we  come  to  Metapedia,  290 
miles  from  Quebec,  and  enter  the  magnificent  valley  of  the  far-famed 
Restigouche,  the  boundary  between  the  provinces  of  Quebec  and 
New  Brunswick.  In  crossing  the  railway  bridges  here  we  get  a  fine 
view  from  the  car-windows  up  and  down  the  valley. 

An  interesting  route  to  the  Lower  Provinces  is  by  the  Quebec 
Central  from  L6vis  down  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Chaudifere  and 
through  a  picturesque  country  to  Megantie,  where  connection  is  made 
with  the  C.  P.  R.  Short  Line  from  Montreal. 

From  Quebec  to  the  Maritime  Provinces  by  Steamship 
around  Gasp6  and  the  Gulf  Coast. 

The  route  between  Quebec  and  Gasp^  is  served  by  the  steamer 
Admiral ;  but  on  every  alternate  Tuesday  morning  a  fine  boat  of  the 
Quebec  Steamship  Company  leaves  Quebec  for  Gaspe  and  adjacent  ports, 
and  continues  down  the  New  Brunswick  coast  to  Poi7i(  du  Cht'ne,  thence 
to  Summermle  and  Charlottdoivn  in  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  to 
Pictou  in  Nova  Scotia,  where  she  arrives  on  Saturday.  This  is  a 
comfortable  salt-water  voyage,  lying  nearly  all  the  way  through 
waters  that  are  rarely  rough.  The  coast  scenery  is  fine,  particularly 
about  the  wild  cliffs  of  Gasp6.    The  fare  to  Gasp^  is  |10;  return^ 


116 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARmME   PROVINCES. 


The  fare  to  Pictou  is  $16;  return,  $24.  These  rates  include 
meals. 

The  voyage  down  the  St.  Lawrence  as  far  as  Father  Point  has 
been  already  described  A  little  way  beyond  is  the  whaling  village  of 
3fetis,  situated  right  opposite  the  strangely  shaped  Manicouagan  Penin- 
sula, which  fills  up  the  spacious  bay  at  the  mouths  of  the  great  Labrador 
rivers,  Manicouagan  and  Outarde.  Beyond  Metis  is  the  farming  and 
lumbering  village  of  Matane,  whose  broad,  sandy  beach  affords  delight- 
ful opportunities  for  bathing.  Here  flows  in  the  Matane  River,  famous 
for  its  trout  and  salmon.  Far  off  to  the  southwest,  rising  out  of  the 
heart  of  the  Gaspe  wildei'ness,  we  note  the  lofty  summits  called  the 
Caps  of  Matane.  The  St.  Lawrence  here  is  over  40  miles  in  width,  but 
it  narrows  again  to  35  miles  as  we  approach  Cape  Chatte,  33  miles  east 
of  Matane.  At  Cape  Chatte  is  an  important  lighthouse.  Near  here 
took  place,  in  June,  1629,  a  naval  battle  between  the  English  ship  Abi- 
gail and  a  French  war-ship  commanded  by  Emery  de  Caen,  which  re- 
sulted in  a  victbry  for  the  Englishman.  The  Cape  is  named  for  Eymard 
de  Chaste,  Governor  of  Dieppe,  who  in  1603  sent  out  an  exploring  and 
colonizing  expedition  which  was  led  by  Pontgrave  and  Lescarbot. 
Twelve  or  15  miles  eastward  we  round  Cape  St.  Anne  to  the  village  of 
Ste.  Anne  des  Jfonts,  the  center  of  extensive  mackerel,  cod,  and  halibut 
fisheries.  In  the  adjoining  river,  the  St.  Anne,  trout  and  salmon  lit- 
erally swarm.  A  few  miles  back  from  the  coast  rise  the  lofty  St. 
Anne  Mountains,  whose  chief  peak  reaches  the  height  of  4,000  feet. 
These  mountains  are  a  spur  of  the  great  Gaspesian  range  called  the 
Shick-shock  or  Notre  Dame  Mountains.  The  old  chronicler  Lalemant 
in  1048  wrote  as  follows  :  "All  those  wlio  come  to  New  France  know 
well  enough  the  mountains  of  Notre  Dame,  because  the  pilots  and 
sailors  being  arrived  at  that  part  of  the  great  river  which  is  opposite 
to  those  high  mountains,  baptize  ordinarily  for  sport  the  new  passen- 
gers, if  they  do  not  turn  aside  by  some  present  the  inundation  of  this 
baptism  which  is  made  to  flow  plentifully  on  their  heads." 

From  Cape  St.  Anne  t(  Point  Pleurcusc,  a  distance  of  28  miles,  the 
coast  is  but  a  wall  of  towering  cliffs.  Eleven  miles  beyond  is  Cape 
Magdclaine  at  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere  Magdelaine.  All  this  region 
has  furnished  themes  for  the  wildest  legends.  The  name  Pleureuse  is 
suggestive  enough  in  itself.  The  superstitious  sailors  and  fishermen 
of  these  haunted  coasts  tell  of  the  piteous  lamentations  they  hear — 
Le  Braillard  de  la  Magdelaine — which  they  ascribe  to  a  damned  soul 


es,  the 
Cape 
region 
euse  is 
eriuen 
lear — 
i  soul 


I  ■ 


: 


Gaspe  Residents  returning  from  Church. 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARIXmE    PROVINCES. 


117 


^'h;!:.  '    ~'":- 

*vi.w:>!1r''fei"l 

seeking  to  tell  its  torments.  It  is  usually  supposed  to  be  the  soul  of  a 
murderous  wrecker — for  some  of  the  old  Gaspesian  wreckers  earned  a 
reputation  as  black  as  that  which  clings  to  the  wreckers  of  the  west 
coast  of  Newfoundland.  Others  again,  of  a  more  ecclesiastical  turn  of 
imagination,  declare  that  the  wailings  arc  the  penitential  cries  of  a 
priest  who  willfully  suffered  a  little  one  to  die  unbaptized.  The  most 
piteous  of  the  tales  is  that  of  a  wreck  on  this  iron  coast  in  which  only 
one  person  came  to  shore  alive.  This  was  a  baby  boy,  who  lay  crying 
all  night  in  the  horrible  desolation,  and  died  because  no  help  came.  A 
probable  explanation  of  the  weird  voices  may  be  found  in  the  wave- 
eaten  caverns  of  the  cliffs,  in  which  the  sea  moans  and  cries  incessantly. 

Quitting  this  grim  haunt  of  mysteries  we  pass  Grande  VaUee  and 
come  to  Cloridorme,  an  important  settlement,  and  the  seat  of  a  large 
branch  of  the  great  fishing  firm  of  Robin  &  Co.,  which  has  its  head- 
quarters in  the  Isle  of  Jersey.  Then  we  pass  the  fishing  handet  of  Fox 
River^  and  find  ourselves  off  Cap  des  Hosiers,  sometimes  called  "  the 
Scylla  of  the  St.  Lawrence."  Here  lies  the  village  of  Cape  Rosier, 
which,  with  the  neighboring  settlements  of  Gripin''s  Cove  and  Grand 
Greve,  are  dependent  on  the  great  Gaspe  fishing  firm  of  W.  Ilyman  & 
Sons.  At  tins  point  we  may  be  said  to  pass  out  of  the  gates  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  which  is  here  96  miles  wide.  On  the  cape  stands  a  light- 
house of  stone  112  ft.  high.  Due  N.,  like  a  stern  sentinel  guarding 
the  riches  and  loveliness  within,  stands  the  grim  Isle  of  Aniicosti,  in  the 
middle  of  the  river's  giant  mouth.  The  isle  is  no  less  than  135  miles 
long  by  40  in  width  ;  but  this  great  area  must  be  regarded  as  hopelessly 
inhospitable.  The  coast  is  perilous,  the  climate  cruel,  the  soil  sterile. 
Within  a  year  or  so  there  were  a  thousand  or  more  inhabitants  on  the 
island  ;  but  these,  having  come  to  the  verge  of  starvation,  were  lately 
removed  to  the  mainland  and  kindlier  suri'oimdings.  Xow  the  only 
dwellers  in  this  wilderness  are  the  lighthouse-keepers.  Seal-fishers 
visit  the  spot  in  the  fishing  season;  and  the  island  streams  abound 
with  trout  and  salmon,  as  do  its  barrens  with  feathered  game. 

Six  miles  beyond  Cap  dcs  Jiosiers,  we  reach  the  vast  projecting 
promontory  of  Cape  (jaspe,  which  thrusts  out  into  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence  a  towering  rampart  of  sandstone  690  ft.  in  height.  The 
name  of  the  'iape,  and  thence  of  the  whole  great  peninsula,  is  derived 
from  the  Indian  word  "  Gasepion,"  applying  to  a  lonely  detached  rock 
100  ft.  high  which  once  rose  out  of  the  waves  off  the  extremity  of  the 
cape.     From  its  resemblance  to  a  statue  the  habitants  called  this  rock 


y 


M 

M 


11 

i 


118 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARITIME    PROVINCES. 


.'i 


! 


N 


^^La  Vieille.^^  The  ceaseless  battering  of  storms  has  at  length  over- 
thrown this  pipturesque  and  historic  landmark.  Seven  miles  and  a 
half  S.  of  Cape  (iaspo  rises  the  promontory  of  Point  .St.  Peter ;  and 
between  them  lies  the  deep  inlet  of  Gmpe  Bai/,  which  runs  20  miles 
inland,  and  keeps  at  its  head  the  secure  harbor  of  Gasp6  Basin. 

As  we  run  up  the  bay  we  pas^s  on  our  right  the  perilous  shores  of 
Grand  Grevc,  on  which  the  seas  pile  furiously  when  the  wind  draws 
up  the  coast.  On  the  left  shore  of  the  bay  is  the  village  of  Donglas- 
town,  at  which  flows  in  a  famous  salmon  river  called  the  St.  John. 
Then  the  bay  narrows,  and  round  the  natural  breakwater  of  Sandy 
Beach  we  enter  the  harbor  of  Gaspo  Town.  This  is  a  growing  place, 
the  headtpiarters  of  imnjense  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries,  and  the  chief 
town  on  the  whole  Great  (jiaspe  Peninsula.  It  has  between  800  and  900 
inhabitants,  and  its  noble  and  unique  scenery,  matchless  summer  climate, 
and  the  magnificent  trout  and  salmon  fishing  of  the  adjacent  York 
and  Dartmouth  Rivers^  have  attracted  the  attention  of  travelers.  The 
town  is  possessed  of  a  comfortable  hotel,  the  Gulf  House.  Its  fishing 
operations  are  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  great  firm  of  Le  Boutillier 
Bros.  From  its  wharf  a  fortnightly  mail  steamer  runs  to  Esquimaux 
Bay  on  the  const  of  Labrador.  Its  piers  are  thronged  with  schooners 
and  an  occasional  whaling-ship.  The  surrounding  fields  are  fruitful 
and  well  peopled,  and  petroleum  has  been  found  in  the  neighborhood 
by  boring.  On  a  hill  overlooking  the  town  are  the  guns  of  Fort  Ram- 
say. The  Indians  who  of  old  inhabited  this  region  had  made  consid- 
erable advances  in  civilization,  perhaps  from  intercourse  with  the  Norse- 
men, who  are  supposed  to  have  visited  the  country  frequently  in  the 
eleventh,  twelfth,  and  thirteenth  centuries.  In  1534  Cartier  landed 
here  and  took  possession  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  France,  erecting 
a  cross  30  ft.  high  with  the  Jfeur-de-lis  upon  it.  In  IG'iT  a  French  fleet 
of  20  ships  of  war  and  transports,  carrying  emigrants  and  a  great 
quantity  of  stores  for  the  colony  at  Quebec,  was  driven  by  a  storm  to 
take  shelter  in  Gaspe  Basin.  Hither  they  were  followed  by  Admiral 
Kirke  with  three  English  ships.  The  battle  resulted  in  the  utter  defeat 
of  the  French.  Kirke  burned  ten  of  the  ships,  and  sailed  the  others, 
laden  with  captives  and  treasure,  back  to  England.  In  1760,  Gaspe 
was  taken  by  Admirable  Byron.  At  one  time  the  peninsula  of  Gas- 
pesia  was  erected  into  a  separate  province,  and  Gasp6  made  the  seat  of 
government ;  an  honor  which  it  did  not  long  enjoy,  as  the  peninsula,  on 
account  of  its  scanty  population,  was  soon  reannexed  to  Quebec. 


MONTREAL   TO   THE   MARITIME   PROVINCES. 


119 


leet 

reat 

to 

iral 

feat 

?r8, 

^pe 

|as- 

of 

ion 


lliinning  out  of  Gaspe  Bay  the  steamer  rounds  Point  St.  Peter  and 
crosses  the  mouth  of  Mai  Bay,  9  miles  wide,  to  the  village  of  Perce. 
The  port  of  Perce  may  be  likened  to  that  Salmydcssian  Harbor  which 
^Eschylds  called  "  a  stop-mother  to  ships.''  It  lies  open  to  northeasterly 
storms,  and  was  formerly  called  La  Tcrre  dcs  Te)i,petes.  The  village 
has  between  400  and  500  inhabitants.  It  fairly  lives  and  breathes  cod- 
fish. It  is  divided  by  Mont  Joli  into  two  settlements  called  North 
Beach  and  South  Beach.  From  the  rugged  top  of  Mount  St.  Anne, 
rising  behind  the  village  to  a  height  of  1,200  ft.,  with  rich  fossils  and 
agates  upon  it"  bleak  red  slopes,  may  be  had  one  of  the  finest  views 
in  eastern  Canada.  The  most  famous  landmark  of  the  whole  penin- 
sula lies  just  off  the  village  Perce.  This  is  the  renowned  Perce 
Rock.  It  is  thus  described  by  Mr.  J.  G.  A.  Creighton  in  Picturesque 
Canada : 

La  Roche  Perc6,  "  the  pierced  rock,"  stands  bold  and  firm  to  the 
end,  though  the  elitt's  of  Mont  Joli,  on  the  mainland,  and  of  Bonaven- 
tnre  Island,  2  miles  out  at  sea,  confirm  the  Indian  tradition,  given  by 
Denys,  that  once  there  was  no  break  in  these  perpendicular  walls  of 
rich-hued  conglomerate,  where  the  reds  and  browns  of  sandstone,  the 
bright  olives  and  grays  of  limestone,  greens  of  agate,  purples  of  jasper, 
white  quartz,  and  deep-orange  stain  of  iron  blend  together,  and,  seen 
against  brilliant  blue  sky  and  emerald  sea,  form  a  wondrous  combina- 
tion of  color;  but  the  waves,  with  unbroken  sweep  from  the  open 
ocean,  beat  fiercely  on  this  marvelous  rock  and  have  already  battered 
down  the  three  grand  arches  Denys  saw.     Seventy  year:?  before  Denys, 
Champlain  says  there  was  only  one  arch,  which  was  large  enough  for  a 
sloop  under  full  sail  to  pass  through.     At  present  tliere  is  but  one 
opening,  40  or  50  ft.  high.     Many  remember  the  mighty  crash  with 
which  the  immense  arch  at  the  outer  end  of  the  rock  fell  just  before 
dawn  one  morning  about  forty  years  ago,  leaving  as  its  monument  the 
great  monolith  that  formed  its  abutment.     Slowly  and  surely  wind  and 
sea  are  doing  their  work ;  they  have  begun  anotlier  aj)erture,  not  more 
than  a  couple  of  feet  in  diameter,  through  which  the  sunbeams  flash  as 
the  eclipsing  wave-crests  rise  and  fall.     On  the  north  side  is  a  tiny 
beach  where  you  can  land  at  low  tide  on  a  calm  day.     It  is  like  a  prof- 
anation to  tread  on  tlie  piles  of  agate  and  jasper  glistening  with  water, 
whose  every  roll  tosses  up  millions  of  pebbles  for  the  sun  to  turn  into 
rarest  jewels.     ^lyriads  of  fossils  give  to  the  face  of  the  rock,  that  at  a 
distance  looks  so  hard  and  weathiT-worn,  the  appearance  of  an  ara- 
besque in  richest  velvet.     In  this  little  cove,  shut  in  by  the  cliff  from 
sight  of  everything  but  the  water  and  the  sky,  with  no  sound  but  the 
cries  of  the  coiuitless  birds  that  tenant  the  dizzy  heights  and  the  music 
of  the  surf  as  its  thunderous  bass  dies  away  in  rapid  fugues  to  tender- 
est  treble  of  clattering  pebbles  and  dashing  spray,  we  might  sit  and 
dream  till  the  great,  green  rollers,  through  which  a  mysterious  light 


»* 


120 


MONTREAL    TO   THE   MARITIME    PROVINCES. 


gleams  on  weird  shapes  of  trees  and  firottoes,  and  castles  and  palaces, 
carried  us  off  willing  visitors  to  the  enchanted  land  they  reveal. 

Everywhere  else  the  rock  rises  straight  from  deep  water  to  a  height 
of  3(tO  ft.  At  its  western  end  it  is  worn  to  a  wedge  as  sharp  and 
straight  and  clear-cut  as  the  prow  of  an  iiiiiuense  ironclad,  which  it 
singularly  resembles  in  outline,  if  any  one  imagine  un  ironclad  1,500  ft. 
long  and  300  ft.  wide.  Its  top  is  covered  with  grass,  but  this  is  barely 
visible  because  of  the  immense  flocks  of  birds,  winged  armies  ranged 
in  serried  order.  Each  tribe  inhabits  its  own  territory ;  the  black  cor- 
morants never  mingle  with  the  white  gulls;  the  great  gannets  and  the 
graceful  terns  keep  their  own  places.  If  any  presumptuous  bird  war- 
ders into  the  ranks  of  another  tribe  there  is  a  tremendous  screaming 
and  flapping  of  wings  to  drive  away  the  intruder.  They  come  and  go 
incessantly,  circling  high  over  the  schools  of  herring,  and  plunging 
deep  to  seize  their  prey;  they  swoop  around  the  cod  fishers  at  anchor 
far  out  on  the  banks ;  they  follow  the  boats  into  the  beach  where  the 
packers  are  at  work  ;  they  flit  like  ghosts  about  the  nets  when  in  the 
silvery  moonlight  the  fishermen  go  in  (jucst  of  bait ;  but  they  return 
always  to  the  one  spot  allotted  to  them  among  the  densely  packed  mass 
of  wliite  that  from  a  distance  looks  like  a  bank  of  snow.  During  a 
storm  their  shrieking  is  almost  unearthly,  and  can  be  heard  for  miles. 


In  1776  a  naval  battle  took  place  off  Perc6  Rock  between  a  fleet  of 
American  privateers  and  the  British  war-ships  Wolf  and  Diligence,  in 
which  two  of  the  American  ships  were  sunk.  Our  steamer  passes  now 
between  Perce  Rock  and  the  towering  cliffs,  from  400  to  500  ft.  high, 
of  Bonaventure  Island,  which  stands  2|  miles  off  shore.  Nine  miles 
from  Perce  we  pass  the  fishing  village  of  Cape  Cove,  and  round  the 
promontory  of  Cape  d'Espoir,  whose  name  on  the  tongues  of  the  Eng- 
lish-speaking inhabitants  is  very  antithetically  corrupted  into  Cape 
Despair.  This  is  a  scene  of  wrecks,  and  the  fishermen  say  that  some- 
times when  wind  and  sea  are  undisturbed,  there  comes  a  vision  of  dread- 
ful waves  rolling  in  upon  the  cape,  bearing  on  their  crests  a  spectral 
ship  whose  decks  are  crowded  with  people  in  the  dress  of  long  ago. 
In  the  bow  stands  an  officer  with  a  woman  in  white  clinging  to  his 
arm ;  and  as  the  ship  is  hurled  upon  the  rocks,  over  the  crash  and  roar 
and  crying  of  many  voices  rises  the  shriek  of  the  woman.  Then  all  is 
quiet  again  and  the  sea  lies  still  and  smiling.  Seven  miles  from  the 
cape  lies  Robin  &  Co.'s  village  of  Grand  Hivcr.  Then  we  pass  Gra-id 
Pabos  and  Petit  Pabos,  the  little  Acadian  village  of  N'ewporf,  and  round 
Point  Alaquereau,  where  in  1838  the  treasure-ship  Colborne  was 
wrecked  with  the  loss  of  all  on  board,  to  the  great  enriching  of  the 
Gasp6  wreckers.     Beyond  Point  Maquereau  lie  the  quiet  and  lovely 


^ng- 


igo. 
his 


the 

ely 


1 

j 

i 

1 

1 

! 

i 

HH 

1 

MONTKKAL   TO   TIIK    MAKJTIMK    PUOVINflKS. 


121 


waters  of  llic  liaii  >frn  ('linlvurH.  Hnr  stciiiiwr  turns  soiitli  and  runs 
down  tin-  f^ulf  «'(mst  (tf  Wow  HruiiNwick,  into  Nnrthumhrrlnml 
Sfrai/  to  S/ia/hw,  I'rhirr  /ufn'iinl  Ixluhtl  ports,  and  /'ir/tm,  wlicrc  slip 
arrives  on  Saturday;  those  pliwes  will  be  deserihed  in  eonncetion  with 
another  route,  and  liere  we  will  make  a  short  diver<(enee  to  point  out 
some  filiiccs  of  interest  aloii'^  the  <Jas|)e  sliore  of  I5ay  Chaleurs. 

A  few  miles  I)eyfi"id  Point  Maipiereau  is  th<'  settlement  of  Port 
hiuiiil.  Then  we  eoiuc  to  I'lix/xhiac  (wnnxw'wv^  "hr-iUen  hanks"),  an 
important  tishinu;  villaj;e  of  about  HtKt  iidiabitants,  wlio  are  nieknamcd 
loeally  Paspy  .laeks.  Here  is  a  Utile  hotel  ealled  the  l/nm  Inn.  In 
the  neighborhood  of  the  villa<^e  one  may  pick  up  lino  spceimens  of 
jasper  known  as  (Jaspe  pebbles.  The  harbor  is  protected  by  a  natural 
breakwater  in  the  form  (»f  a  sand  beach  '\  miles  lorifi.  The  trim  cot- 
taj^cs  of  the  villa<;e  crown  the  elitl's,  alontj  the  foot  of  which  stretch 
tlie  jfreat  red  and  white  biuldinjjfs  of  the  firm  of  Kobiii  &  ('o.,  so  often 
nuntioned.  The  headtpiartcrs  of  this  firn),  founded  in  17<iS,  are  in 
the  Isle  of  Jersey ;  and  the  otiicers  of  the  firm  on  this  side  the  water 
are  retpiircd  to  live  in  si..^le  blessedness.  Paspebiae  holds  also  an  im- 
portant post  of  the  Le  Houtilliers,  and  its  yearly  export  of  fish  amounts 
in  value  to  over  $'jr»(>,()(K).  From  Paspet)iac  to  the  Intercolonial  at 
Mctitped'ia  runs  i\w  Atlantic  and  Lake  Superior  Railway,  a  distance  of 
J 00  miles.  IJeyond  Paspebiae,  near  the  nmuth  of  the  Ilonaventure  River, 
is  the  little  town  of  Xcw  Cardslr,  which  was  founded  in  IVHT)  by  United 
Empire  Loyalists,  ficxt  we  come  to  ('<i,sc<iprtfi(t  Ji(t;i^  with  the  villages 
of  Maria  and  Xvw  li'tvhnioml,  whence  steamers  run  acioss  to  Dalhousie. 
Near  Maria  flows  in  the  (traiid  (^isaipedia  River,  on  wliich  are  some  of 
the  mcst  famous  salmon-pools  in  the  world.  Here  the  successive  Gov- 
ernor-Geneials  of  Canada  have  their  fisliinp  lodges,  and  here  was  a  favor- 
ite summer  resort  of  the  Princess  Louise  when  she  dwelt  in  Canada. 
President  Arthur,  also,  used  to  come  hither  and  cast  a  fly  on  these 
unrivaled  waters.  IJeyond  Casciipedia  Hay  lies  the  important  Aca- 
dian village  of  Carlcfon,  with  a  po])ulation  of  1,0:53.  The  village  is 
watched  over  by  the  lovely  peak  of  Tracadiegash.  It  has  a  large  con- 
vent, and  extensive  herring-fisheries.  A  few  miles  beyond  (-arleton 
we  reach  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Nouvelle  River,  a  beautiful  stream  of 
ice-cold  water  descending  fiom  the  mountains.  Its  trout  are  famous 
for  their  size  and  strength.  A))ove  the  settlement  the  river  is  leased 
by  an  American.  (Continuing  for  a  few  miles  over  a  range  of  hills  we 
reach  the  Escuminac  River,  a  smaller  stream  than  the  Nouvelle,  which 


122 


PROVINCE  OF   NEW   BRUNSWICK. 


contains  trout  of  unusual  size.  THIh  may  be  fished  by  arrangement 
with  the  warden  of  the  river  at  Eticuminac  station.  A  tittle  beyond 
lies  the  mouth  of  the  litatiffouche,  and  either  at  Metapedia,  CampbelHon, 
or  Dalhousie,  we  may  bring  to  an  end  our  journey  in  this  direction. 
The  fare  by  rail  from  Mctapediu  station  to  Carleton  is  |1.62;  return, 
$2.81 ;  to  New  Richmond  and  return,  $8.81 ;  to  Puspcbiac  and  return, 
$6.81. 

PROVINCE  OF  NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


New  Brunswick  is  first  of  all  a  lumbering,  ship-building,  and  fishing 
province.  She  also  has  heavy  agricultural  interests,  and  her  great  min- 
eral wealth  is  beginning  to  find  development.  In  shape  the  province  is 
nearly  a  square,  the  seaward  sides  of  which  are  washed  respectively  by 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  center  of  the 
province  is  yet  for  the  most  part  a  wilderness,  threaded  and  dotted  in 
all  directions  with  lakes  and  brooks  apd  rivers,  and  abounding  with  fish 
and  game.  Till  about  a  century  ago  New  Brunswick  formed  a  portion 
of  Nova  Scotia  or  the  old  Acadian  territory.  In  1784,  on  the  influx  of 
the  United  Empire  Loyalists,  it  was  erected  into  a  separate  province. 

Tlie  history  of  Canada  may  be  said  to  open  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
coast  of  this  province,  not  very  far  from  where  we  entered  it  in  our 
descent  by  rail  from  Quebec.  It  began  on  June  80th,  when  Cartier 
sighted  Cape  Escuminac  on  the  gulf-shore  of  New  Brunswick.  Coming 
from  the  bleak,  forbidding  coasts  of  Newfoundland,  which  he  deemed 
to  be  Cain's  portion  of  the  earth,  this  harsh  corner  of  Acadia  appeared 
to  Cartier  a  paradise.  The  wide  water  in  which  he  found  himself  was 
Miramichi  Bay.  Not  discovering  the  Miramichi  itself,  whose  mouth 
lay  hidden  close  at  hand,  behind  long  ranges  of  sand-spits,  chains  of 
islands,  and  intricate  shoals,  he  landed  on  the  banks  of  a  lesser  river, 
not  identified  among  the  thousand  such  that  overlaco  that  region  with 
their  silver  courses.  This  stream  rippled  shallow  over  its  gloaming 
pebbles,  and  ?warmcd  with  trout  and  salmon.  The  woods  about  were 
of  pine  and  cedar,  elm  and  oak,  birch,  willow,  fir,  maple,  and  tamarack, 
and  the  sailors'  hearts  rejoiced  over  such  unlimited  possibilities  of  ships. 
Where  the  woods  gave  back  a  little  space,  the  ground  was  covered  with 
wild  fruits.  Great,  melting  strawberries  betrayed  themselves  to  the  lips 
by  their  red  gleams  piercing  the  grass.  The  bronze-green  blackberry 
thickets  wore  heavy  with  their  yet  unripened  fruitage,  and  the  wild  pea 


ment 
lyond 

ctlon. 
iturn, 
Jturn, 


(thing 
t  min- 
nce  is 
3ly  by 
af  the 
ted  in 
;h  fish 
ortion 
lux  of 
nee. 
'rence 
in  our 
artier 
lining 
emed 
learcd 
If  was 
outh 
ns  of 
iver, 
with 
,ming 
were 
jrack, 
|hips. 
with 
lips 
lerry 
pea 


05 


PROVINCE  OF  NEW  BRUN8WI0K. 


123 


;:i> 

<§ 


trammeled  hirt  footsteps  with  its  ropes  of  purple  and  pale  green.  This 
prodigal  land  was  populous  with  game.  When  wild  pigecms  in  in- 
numerable flocks  streamed  past  and  darkened  the  air,  the  heavens 
seemed  as  thick  with  wings  as  the  sea  and  streams  with  fish.  The  men 
lay  awake  at  night  and  listened  with  wonder  to  the  noise  of  the  count- 
less salmon  passing  the  shoals.  Every  sedge-grown  marsh  was  noisy 
with  ducks.  Plover  and  curlew  piped  clearly  about  the  edges  of  the 
pools.     And  the  peo[)le  possessing  this  land  were  friendly  and  few. 

Bearing  northward  Cartier's  weather-darkened  sails  were  soon  waft- 
ing him  over  the  fairest  bay  his  eyes  had  yet  rested  upon.  Its  waters 
were  clear  and  green,  and  scarce  rippled  under  the  steep  sun  of  mid- 
July.  No  reefs,  no  shoals,  but  here  and  ther<>  a  dark -green  island 
asleep  on  the  sleepy  tide.  On  either  hand  a  long,  receding  line  of  lofty 
shoi-es  drawing  closer  together  toward  the  west,  and  shading  gently 
from  indigo  to  pale  violet.  So  great  was  the  change  from  the  raw 
winds  of  the  gulf  to  this  sultry  sea  that  Cartier  named  it  Baie  des 
Chalenrs.  Here  they  passed  some  days  very  sweetly  in  indolent  ex- 
ploration, in  trading  with  the  hos|)ital)le  Micmacs,  in  feasting  on  seal- 
flesh  and  salmon.  So  cimunercial  were  the  natives  of  this  land  that 
they  bartered  the  clothes  they  wore  for  trades  and  trinkets.  Then 
Cartier  sailed  on  to  the  north  to  discover  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  first 
attempt  at  settlement,  however,  was  in  the  extreme  southwest  of  the 
province,  and  was  undertaken  by  (Jhamjilaln  and  the  Sieur  de  Monts  in 
1604.  This  attem}>t,  as  well  as  the  successive  immigrations  of  French, 
of  New  England  pioneers,  and  of  the  United  Empire  Loyalists,  will  be 
referred  to  in  other  connections. 

The   Restigouche. 

The  name  Restigouche  signifies  the  five-fingered  river — so  called 
from  the  five  great  branching  tributaries  which  spread  abroad  through 
Quebec  and  New  Hrunswick  like  the  fingers  of  an  open  hand.  Of 
these  branches  the  Upsalquitch  is  a  marvelous  ti'out  and  salmon  stream, 
but  difHcult  of  access  on  account  of  its  almost  continuous  rapids,  and 
somewhat  hard  to  fish  successfully  by  reason  of  the  preternatural  clear- 
ness of  its  currents.  The  ample  stream  of  the  Quah-ta-wah-am-quah- 
davic  has  had  its  name  providentially  condensed  by  the  lumberman  into 
Tom  Kcdfiewick.  The  course  of  the  Kestigouche  is  nowhere  broken 
by  falls  or  impassable  rapida;  and  its  strong,  full,  unflagging  current 


124 


THE    RESTIGOIKHE. 


makes  it  a  magnificent  stream  for  the  canoe-man.  Its  salmon-fisheries 
are  famea  the  world  over,  and  are  for  the  most  part  in  the  hands  of 
fishing-clubs  made  up  of  wealthy  Canadian  and  American  anglers. 
The  Reatigouche  salmon  is  remarkable  for  his  size.  He  is  a  very  dif- 
ferent fish  from  his  fellows  of  Xcpisignit  and  Miramichi.  lie  does 
more  of  his  fighting  imder  water,  and  usually  takes  the  fly  when  it  is 
below  the  surface.  He  has  been  made  the  subject  of  a  bright  article 
in  Scribner's  Magazine  for  May,  1888.  (ligantic  and  magnificent  as  he 
is,  he  is  capricious  in  his  appetite,  and  frequently  when  he  is  most 
wanted  he  is  not  there.  His  fame  has  quite  eclipsed  that  of  the  noble 
Reatigouche  trout,  who  is  always  on  hand  to  console  the  disappointed 
fisherman.  The  killing  of  a  Restigouche  salmon  is  thus  vividly 
described  in  the  article  just  referred  to : 

We  pass  around  two  curves  in  the  river  and  find  ourselves  at 
the  head  of  the  pool.  .  .  .  First  cast,  to  the  right,  straight  across 
the  stream,  about  20  ft. ;  the  current  carries  the  fly  down  with  a 
semicircular  sweep  ;until  it  comes  in  line  with  the  bow  of  the  canoe. 
Second  cast,  to  the  left,  straight  across  the  stream,  with  the  same 
motion;  the  semicircle  is  completed,  and  the  fly  hangs  (piivering  for  a 
few  seconds  at  the  lowest  point  of  the  arc.  Three  or  four  ft.  of  line 
are  drawn  from  the  reel.  Third  cast,  to  the  right ;  fourth  cast,  to  the 
left.  Then  a  little  more  line.  And  so,  with  widening  half  circles, 
the  water  is  covered  gradually  and  very  carefully,  until  at  length  the 
angler  has  as  much  line  out  as  his  two-handed  rod  can  lift  and  swing. 
.  .  .  This  seems  like  a  very  regular  and  somewhat  mechanical  pro- 
ceeding as  one  describes  it,  but  in  the  performance  it  is  rendered 
intensely  interesting  by  the  knowledge  that,  at  any  moment,  it  is  lia- 
ble to  be  interrupted  by  an  agreeable  surprise.  One  can  ne^or  tell 
just  when  or  how  a  salmon  will  rise,  or  just  what  he  will  do  when  he 
has  risen. 

This  morning  the  interruption  comes  early.  At  the  first  cast  of  the 
second  drop,  before  the  fly  has  I'airly  lit,  a  great  flash  of  silver  darts 
from  the  waves  close  by  the  boat.  Usually  a  salmon  takes  the  fly 
rather  slowly,  carrying  it  under  water  before  he  seizes  it  in  his  mouth. 
But  this  one  is  in  no  mood  for  deliberation.  He  has  hooked  himself 
with  a  rush,  and  the  line  goes  whirring  madly  from  the  reel  as  he  races 
down  the  pool.  Keep  the  point  of  the  rod  !(»«  ,  he  must  have  his  own 
way  now.  Up  with  the  anchor  quickly,  and  send  the  canoe  after  him, 
bowman  and  sternnian  paddling  with  swift  strokes.  He  has  reached 
the  deepest  water ;  he  stops  to  think  what  has  happened  to  him ;  we 
have  passed  around  and  below  him ;  and  now  with  the  current  below 
to  help  us  we  can  begin  to  reel  in.  Lift  the  point  of  the  rod  with  a 
strong,  steady  pull.  Put  the  force  of  both  arms  into  it.  The  tough 
wood  will  stand  the  strain.  The  fish  must  be  moved ;  he  must  come 
to  the  boat  if  he  is  ever  to  be  landed.     He  gives  a  little  and  yields 


ing. 


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THE  UE8TIGODCIIE. 


125 


slowly  to  the  pressure.  Then  suddenly  he  gives  too  much,  and  runs 
straight  toward  us.  Reel  in  now  as  swiftly  as  possible,  or  else  he  will 
get  a  slack  on  the  line  and  escape.  Now  he  stops,  shakes  his  head 
from  side  to  side,  and  darts  away  again  across  the  pool,  leaping  high 
out  of  water.  Drop  the  point  of  the  rod  quickly,  for  if  he  falls  on  the 
leader  he  will  surely  break  it.  Another  leap,  and  another !  Truly  he 
is  "a  merry  one,"  as  Sir  Humphry  Davy  says,  and  it  will  go  hard  with 
us  to  hold  him.  But  those  great  leaps  have  exhausted  his  strength, 
and  now  he  follows  the  line  more  easily.  The  men  push  the  boat 
back  to  the  shallow  side  of  the  pool  until  it  touches  lightly  on  the 
shore.  The  fish  comes  slowly  in,  fighting  a  little  and  making  a  few 
short  runs;  he  is  tired  and  turns  slightly  on  his  side;  but  even  yet  he 
is  a  heavy  weight  on  the  line,  and  it  seems  a  wonder  that  so  slight  a 
thing  as  the  leader  can  guide  and  draw  him.  Now  he  is  close  to  the 
boat.  The  boatman  steps  out  (m  a  rock  with  his  gaff.  Steadily  now 
and  slowly  lift  the  rod,  bonding  it  backward.  A  (juick,  sure  stroke  of 
the  steel !  a  great  splash  !  and  the  salmon  is  lifted  high  and  dry  upon 
the  shore.  Give  him  the  couft  dc  grdcc  at  once,  for  his  own  sake  as 
well  as  ours.  And  now  look  at  him,  as  he  lies  there  on  the  green 
leaves.  Uroad  back;  small  head  tapering  to  a  point;  clean,  shining 
sides,  with  a  few  black  sj)ots  on  them ;  it  is  a  fish  fresh  run  from  the 
sea,  in  perfect  condition,  and  that  is  the  reason  why  he  has  given  us 
such  good  sport. 

The  fishing  rights  to  many  of  the  best  pools  on  the  Restigouche  are 
held  by  gentlemen  owning  the  adjacent  shores,  and  it  is  usually  easy 
to  get  permission  for  a  cast  in  one  or  another  of  the  pools. 

From  the  bridge  the  railroad  follows  down  the  S.  shore  of  the  Res- 
tigouche a  few  miles  to  CampbcUtoH .  Immediately  behind  the  village 
of  Campbellton  rises  a  peculiar  mountain  called  thi'  Sfinar-Loaf,  about 
1,000  ft.  in  height.  The  face  of  Sugar-Loaf  is  inaccessii'r  on  tlio  side 
next  the  village.  Its  base  on  this  side  is  strewn  thic'.  '.viih  mighty 
bowlders,  which  have  detached  themselves  on  slight  provocation.  The 
view  from  the  summit  is  remarkably  fine.  Yonder  lies  the  park-like 
amphitheatre  wherein  the  Restigouche  and  Mctuicdia  meet,  coiling 
hither  and  thither  in  bands  of  azure.  Beyond,  towering  over  innumer- 
able lesser  hills,  the  peaks  of  Squaw's  Cap  and  Slate  Mountain ;  and 
over  the  shining  waters  of  the  Hale  des  Chaleurs  the  blue  ranges  of  the 
Traccidicyash  in  (hispe,  the  practically  unexplored  terminations  of  the 
Alleghany  system.  Below  our  feet  the  white  cottages  of  Campbolilon 
shine  in  the  transparent  atmosphere. 

Within  the  mouth  of  the  Restigouche  there  stood  in  old  times  a 
French  town  called  Petite  Rochelle.  Across  the  river  from  Carapbelltoii 
lies  the  Micmac  settlement  of  Mission  Point,  where  the  remains  of  two 


'^i 


126 


THE   EE8TIGOUCIIE. 


li 


French  vessels  may  still  be  seen  at  low  water.  The  Micniac  village 
stands  upon  a  good  coal-field.  In  1760,  when  the  French  (Jovernmont 
was  seeking  to  regain  Quebec,  22  store-ships  were  sent  out  from  France 
under  a  strong  convoy.  In  the  gulf  they  learned  the  distasteful  in- 
telligence that  an  English  fleet  had  gone  up  the  St.  Lawrence  ahead  of 
them.  Thereupon  they  took  shelter  in  the  Baie  den  ChalcuvSy  where 
they  were  followed  by  Admiral  Hyron,  coniniander  of  the  British  naval 
forces  at  Louisburg.  The  British  sciuadrou,  consisting  of  five  ships, 
captured  two  of  the  French  vessels  on  the  way  up  the  bay.  The  French 
fleet,  fleeing  into  the  Restigouche,  took  refuge  iinder  the  batteries  of 
Petite  Kochelle,  whither  the  English  followed,  and  after  silencing  the 
batteries  brought  on  a  general  engagement.  At  length  the  ex])losion 
of  a  French  powder-ship  brought  the  battle  to  a  close ;  and  the  English 
destroyed  not  only  the  whole  squadron  but  the  fortifications  and  the 
200  houses  of  Pdifc  KochcUc.  On  the  site  of  the  ruined  town  relics  of 
various  kinds  are  yet  from  tiuie  to  time  unearthed.  Nine  miles  from 
Campbellton  the  train  stops  at  Didhousic  Junction^  whence  a  run  of 
7  miles  brings  us  to  the  lovely  watering-place  of  Dalhouslc,  with  its 
famous  summer  hotel,  the  Inch  Arran,  Dalhousie  lies  on  the  beautiful 
and  placid  waters  of  the  Baie  (ks  C/taleurs.  It  is  the  capital  of  Resti- 
gouche County,  and  has  a  population  of  between  2,000  and  3,000,  with 
a  considerable  trade  in  lumber  and  fish.  In  the  deep  sheltered  harbor 
of  Dalhousie  the  boating  and  bathing  facilities  are  all  that  could  be 
desired.  The  Indian  name  of  the  Bale  dcs  Vhalcurs  is  Eckctnata 
Nemaache^  which  signifies  "  a  Sea  of  Fish,"  and  is  in  the  highest  degree 
appropriate.  The  waters  of  the  bay  are  brooded  over  by  the  chai-m  of 
many  legends,  chief  among  which  is  that  of  the  "  Phantom  Ship," 
whose  lurid  shape  is  said  to  appear  at  times  off  the  coast,  and  to  be 
associated  in  some  indeterminate  manner  with  tlie  omnipresent  Cap- 
tain Kidd.  Here  lies  the  scene  also  of  the  brutal  deed  of  Skipper 
l4seson,  the  subject  of  a  spirited  ballad  by  Whittier : 


1 


"  Small  pity  for  luiu  ! — IIo  sailed  away 
From  a  k'akiii<r  A\\\)  in  Chali'iir  Hay — 
Sailfci  away  from  a  sinking  wreck, 
With  liis?  own  town's-peoplo  on  her  dock  I 
'  liay  i)y  !  lay  Ity  ! '  they  calli'd  to  him  ; 
Back  he  answered  :   '  Sink  or  swim  1 
Braj^  of  yoin'  catch  of  fish  ai^ait  1 
And  off  in  .-ailud  through  the  fog  and  rain." 


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THE   RESTIGOUCHE   TO  MONCTON. 


127 


From  the  Beitigouohe  to  Moncton.     T*  \ 

From  Dalhousie  Junction  to  Bathurst  the  traveler  gets  some  noble 
and  spacious  views  from  the  car-windows.  Ten  miles  from  the  Junc- 
tion is  Charlo,  beside  the  Charlo  River,  a  small  stream  which  has  not 
been  leased  for  several  years,  though  it  is  a  capital  trout-stream,  and 
one  may  kill  a  few  salmon  on  it  in  the  early  part  of  the  season.  Six- 
teen miles  farther  op  we  cross  Jacquet  River,  a  famous  fishing  stream, 
which  a  few  years  ago  was  nearly  depleted  by  poachers,  but  which  is 
rapidly  regaining  its  old  status  under  judicious  protection.  Beyond 
Jacquet  River  we  pass  the  unimportant  stations  of  Belledune  and  Petite 
Roche,  at  the  latter  of  which  we  cross  the  little  Nigadou  River.  As  we 
approach  the  fine  harbor  of  Bathurst  we  cross  the  Tatagouche  River. 
Then  we  come  to  the  town  of  Bathurst,  where  flows  in  the  Nepisiguit 
River.  The  name  Nepisiguit  signifies  foaming  waters.  Besides  this 
river  and  the  Tatagouche,  two  other  streams  empty  themselves  into 
the  lovely  basin  of  Bathurst  Harbor — namely.  Middle  River  and  the 
Little  Nepisiguit.  All  are  fishing  streams,  but  the  fame  of  the  lesser 
three  is  quite  eclipsed  by  that  of  the  Nepisiguit.  The  name  Tatagouche 
is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian  Tootoogoose,  which  signifies  Fairy  River. 
The  town  of  Bathurst  is  beautifully  situated  on  two  high  points,  sepa- 
rated by  a  shallow  estuary.  It  has  a  population  of  about  3,000,  and  a 
considerable  trade  in  fish  and  lumber.  The  chief  hotel  is  the  Kearey 
House.  The  settlement  of  Bathurst  was  begun  in  1638  by  a  wealthy 
Basque,  M.  Jean  Jacques  Enaud,  who  took  to  himself  as  wife  a  Mo- 
hawk princess.  But  difficulties  arose  between  the  French  and  the 
Indians,  and  the  latter  at  length  destroyed  the  infant  settlement.  The 
district  was  an  old  battle-ground  of  the  Mohawks  and  the  Micmacs. 
At  different  times  settlements  were  begun  on  the  harbor,  only  to  be 
destroyed  by  the  savages  or  by  American  privateers.  The  present  town 
was  founded  in  1818  by  Sir  Howard  Douglas. 

The  reputation  of  the  Nepisiguit  as  a  salmon-stream  is  second  only 
to  that  of  ihe  Restigouche  and  Mirauiichi.  It  rises  in  a  number  of 
lakes  in  the  high  central  plateau  of  the  province,  separated  by  only  a 
short  portage  from  the  head-waters  of  certain  of  the  St.  John's  chief 
tributaries.  The  course  of  the  Nepisiguit  is  tumultuous  and  broken. 
Twenty  miles  above  its  mouth  it  plunges  in  four  leaps  over  a  magnifi- 
cent cataract  140  ft.  in  height,  known  as  the  Grand  Falls  of  the  Nepi- 
siguit.    Below  the  fall  the  river  glides  through  a  narrow  channel  be- 


.f^iCL«l^  ^« 


128 


THE   RESTIGOUCHE  TO   aiONCTON. 


5      > 


tween  high  cliffs.  Above  its  dehouchement  it  rolls  over  a  bed  of  great 
granite  bowlders.  Tliough  the  river  is  leased,  and  a  good  deal  of  money 
spent  on  its  protection,  its  salmon-fisheries  are  deteriorating,  owing,  it 
is  said,  to  a  system  of  trap-nets  below  tide-water,  so  arranged  as  to 
prevent  fish  entering  the  river.  This  difficulty,  it  seems,  can  hardly  be 
remedied,  as  tidal  waters  are  not  under  the  control  of  the  provincial 
authorities.  Throughout  the  whole  of  its  upper  course,  however,  the 
river  simply  swarms  with  trout  of  large  size,  which  are  rarely  disturbed 
owing  to  the  comparative  inaccessibility  of  the  waters  they  occupy. 
The  best  way  to  reach  them  is  from  the  other  side  of  the  province,  by 
a  canoe  trip  up  the  Tobique  and  down  the  Nepisiguit  from  its  source. 
This  is  a  trip  to  delight  such  bold  canoe-men  as  long  for  the  complete 
wilderness  and  a  little  spice  of  danger.  The  salmon  of  the  Nepisiguit 
are  smaller  than  those  of  the  Ilestigouche,  but  a  very  fierce  and  active 
fish. 

Five  miles  beyond  Bathurst  lies  Gloucester  Junction,  whence  the 
Caraquet  and  Gulf  Shore  Railway  runs  down  to  the  Bale  dcs  Chafeurs 
shore  to  the  magnificent  harbor  of  Shippiffmi,  the  port  of  refuge  of 
the  Canadian  and  American  fishing  fleets.  The  fare  to  Caraquet  and 
return  is  $2.25.  This  harbor  is  situated  at  the  extremity  of  a  cape 
which  thrusts  itself  far  out  into  the  gulf.  It  occupies  an  important 
point  in  a  scheme  known  as  the  ocean  ferry,  by  which  it  is  proposed 
to  shorten  the  transatlantic  passage.  The  idea  is  to  run  a  fast  ex- 
press between  New  York  and  Shippigan,  swift  steamers  from  Shippigan 
across  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  St.  (Jeorge's  Bay  in  Newfound- 
land, thence  fast  express  again  across  Newfoundland  to  St.  John's, 
whence  it  is  but  1,640  miles  of  ocean  voyage  to  Valencia.  This  scheme 
is  yet  in  nubibuSy  and  may  remain  so ;  but  just  beyond  Shippigan  lies 
the  wide  fiat  island  of  Miscou^  whose  shooting-grounds  are  perhaps 
the  best  in  the  Dominion.  The  seasons  are  August  and  September 
for  plover,  September,  October,  and  November  for  geese,  ducks,  and 
brant.  The  shooting  privileges  of  Miscou  are  held  by  Lee  Babbitt, 
Esq.,  of  Fredericton,  who  may  be  addressed  on  the  subject.  Mi.scou 
Island  is  about  20  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  reached  by  boat  from 
Caraquet.  The  distance  between  Caraquet  and  Bathurst  by  rail  is  45 
miles.  The  district  about  Shippigan  was  once  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
walrus. 

Between  Gloucester  Junction  and  the  town  of  Newcastle  on  the 
Miramichi,  a  distance  of  39  miles,  we  pass  but  three  stations,  namely. 


THE   RE8TIGOUCHE   TO   MONCTON. 


129 


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the 


Red  Pine,  Bartibogue,  and  Beaver  Brook.  Newcastle  is  at  the  head  of 
deep  water  navigation  on  the  Miramiohi.  It  is  a  ship-building  center, 
with  a  population  of  between  2,000  and  3,000,  and  a  considerable 
trade  in  lumber  and  in  canned  and  frozen  fisii.  The  chief  hotel  is  the 
Wavcr\i/.  Five  miles  down  the  river,  on  the  south  sliore,  lios  Chat* 
ham,  the  chief  town  of  the  gulf  coast  of  New  Bnmswick.  Almost 
midway  between  them,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river  as  Newcastle,  is 
the  lumbering  village  of  Douglastown.  Chatham  is  about  12  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  tiie  Mirainiclii.  Its  population  is  nearly  10,000,  its 
harbor  is  safe  and  roomy,  and  its  lumbering,  fishing,  and  ship-building 
interests  are  large.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Canada  Eastern  Railway, 
which  runs  to  Fredericton,  120  miles,  and  it  is  the  see  town  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  bishop.  Between  Newcastle  and  Chatham  one  may 
go  by  rail  by  way  of  Chatham  Junction  ;  but  much  the  more  direct 
and  pleasant  trip  is  by  the  steamers  that  ply  on  the  river,  though  as 
far  as  the  scenery  is  concerned  the  Miramichi,  in  its  lower  portions  at 
least,  has  little  to  boast  of.  The  view  of  Chatham  is  dominated  by  the 
lofty  piles  of  the  Roman  Catholic  institutions  St.  MichaeVs  Cathedral 
and  College,  and  the  Convent  and  Hospital.  The  chief  hotels  of  Chat- 
ham arc  the  Adams  House  and  Bowscr^s. 

Besides  the  Miramichi  itself,  to  be  referred  to  presently,  the  trav- 
eler who  halts  at  Chatham  finds  himself  within  convenient  distance  of 
many  fine  fi.«hing  waters.  It  is  a  short  drive  to  the  Bartibogue,  whose 
wide  shallow  reaches  abound  in  season  witii  splendid  sea-trout.  It  is 
an  easy  stream  to  fish,  and  at  the  head  of  tide  may  be  had  good  :  nort 
with  the  striped  bass.  Stages  run  from  Chatham  to  the  famous  Tabu- 
sintac,  "  the  place  where  two  meet,"  a  distance  of  34  miles.  As  a  trout- 
stream  this  narrow  river,  full  of  pools,  is  almost  unrivaled.  The  sea- 
trout  swarm  up  its  water;-,  and  run  very  large.  A  trip  to  the  Tabu- 
sintac  is  the  great  delight  of  Chatham  anglers.  Fifteen  miles  beyond 
this  river  lies  the  Big  Tracadie  River,  a  broad,  shallow  stream  well 
stocked  with  salmon  and  trout,  and  running  through  a  sandy  region. 
The  district  about  the  river  is  thickly  settled  with  Acadian  French, 
whose  farming  and  fishing  are  alike  prosperous.  The  mouth  of  the 
Tracadie,  as  of  most  streams  flowing  into  the  gulf  along  this  coast,  is 
sheltered  by  a  long,  low,  sandy  island,  forming  a  shallow  lagoon.  These 
lagoons  are  frequented  in  the  autumn  by  vast  flocks  of  ducks,  wild 
geese,  and  brant.  At  Tracadie  is  the  famous  Lazaretto,  an  object  of 
most  painful  interest,  where  a  colony  of  lepers  is  secluded  and  cared 


M  y 


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130 


THE    "ESTIOOUCIIE   TU    MONCTON. 


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for.  Some  time  in  the  course  of  last  century  a  French  vessel  v  as 
wrecked  on  this  coast,  certain  of  whose  sailors  wore  afflicted  with  the 
virulent  leprosy  of  the  Levant.  By  close  association  and  interniawiage 
the  disease  spread  rapidly  among  the  Aciuliaiis,  hut  it  ia  now  hting 
stamped  out  by  the  prccautiona  of  the  Government. 

From  Chatham  excursion  steamers  run  frequently  down  the  rivei  to 
the  settlemeui  of  liai/  du  Viu  on  the  south  shore  and  Birnt  Church 
on  the  north  shore  of  Miramichi  IJii\  Both  these  so'tlements  are  on 
small  trout  rivers.  IJurut  Church  is  the  capital  of  tl  •>  Micmac  Indians, 
and  they  gather  to  the  spot  in  great  numbers  evoiy  summer  on  the 
festival  of  Ste.  Anne.  They  celebrate  tlu^  festival  with  religious  cere- 
monies, sports,  and  dances.  Governor  Gordon  says,  "  I  was  surprised 
by  fhe  curious  resemblance  between  these  dances  and  those  of  the 
Greek  peasantry." 

The  Miramichi. 

The  Miramidii  is  the  second  river  in  the  province,  ranking  next  to 
the  St.  John  in  size  and  importance.  The  head-wateis  of  some  of  its 
tributaries  interlace  with  those  of  streams  that  flow  into  the  St.  John, 
A  short  distance  above  Xcvcasflc  the  river  forks  into  what  are  known 
as  the  A^orhccst  Miraiiochi  and  the  Sou' west  Mivamichi^  of  which 
the  latter  is  really  the  uiuin  stream.  The  name  is  Micmac,  and  means 
"  the  happy  vetreat."  T!ie  Sou'west  Branch  is  the  more  thickly  set- 
tled, and  its  valley  is  traversed  by  the  Canada  Eastern  R.  R.  as  far 
as  Boiestown.  The  courso  of  the  river,  as  of  most  of  its  tributaries, 
is  comparatively  unbrok;"!,  and  oifers  every  facility  for  both  fishing 
and  canoeing.  The  Nor' west  Branch  is  more  difficult  of  access  and 
has  perhaps  fewer  firsi-rate  salmon-pools.  Nearly  all  these  waters, 
however,  are  justly  renowned  for  trout  and  salmon.  Particularly 
famous  are  such  tributaries  as  the  Big  and  Little  Sevoffle,  the  Renous, 
and  the  Dungarvon  ;  and  in  the  latter  stream,  owing  to  the  rigid  sup- 
pression of  poaching,  the  fisl*  become  yearly  more  numerous.  Perhaps 
the  most  famous  salmon-pools  arc  those  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Sou'west  Branch,  above  Boiestown^  at  the  mouths  of  Burnt  Hill  Brook, 
Rocky  Brook,  and  the  Clear  Water.  For  information  as  to  fishing 
privileges  in  New  Brunswick  generally,  one  would  do  well  to  communi- 
cate with  the  Commissioner  for  the  Province,  J.  Henry  Phair,  Esq.,  of 
Fredericton.  An  excellent  canoe  trip  may  be  made  by  ascending  the 
river  St.  John  by  steamer,  canoe,  or  rail  spme  distance  above  Woodstock 


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THE    REftTIOOUCHE   TO   MONCTON. 


131 


and  portaging  over  by  a  short  carry  to  the  head  of  the  Pou'west  Branch, 
whence  the  run  is  easy  all  the  way  to  Chatham. 

A  good  deal  of  history  has  been  made  on  the  lower  portion  of  the 
Miramichi  and  about  its  mouth.  The  early  settlers  were  tisually  unfor- 
tunate in  their  relations  with  the  Indians.  An  interesting  point  is 
Bcaufiair^a  Island,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Nor'west  and  Sou'west 
Branches.  Here  once  stood  a  flourishing  French  town,  most  of  whose 
inhabitants  i)erished  by  disease  and  famine  in  1758.  The  destruction 
of  the  town  was  completed  by  a  British  fli'et  in  .  .")9,  and  now  its  site 
is  woods  and  picnic-grounds.  In  October,  IH""'  the  greater  portion  of 
the  river  valley  was  visited  by  an  awful  cala  hich  occupies  a  very 

prominent  place  in  New  Brunswick  history  he  name  of  TJie 

Great  Mir  at  nichi  Fire.  This  conflagration  dcsiroyed  ;;, 000,000  acres 
of  forest  and  160  human  lives.  Those  who  escaped  only  saved  them- 
selves by  taking  refuge  in  the  lakes  and  rivers.  The  catastrophe  is 
thus  described  by  Dr.  Bryce : 

For  two  days  preceding  the  Yth  of  October,  1825,  the  air  had  been 
intensely  close ;  there  was  a  dead  calm.  Toward  evening  a  rumbling 
sound  was  heard,  then  a  breeze,  and  last  a  hurricane  bringing  flames, 
cinders,  ashes,  and  hot  sand,  so  that  simultaneously  several  hundreds 
of  square  miles  were  wrapped  in  one  blaze.  The  town  of  Newcastle  was 
swept  away  almost  entirely.  Vessels  in  the  river  were  cast  ashore  and 
a  number  burned.  Hundreds  of  men,  women,  and  children  were  over- 
taken in  the  flames  and  perished.  The  Governor-General  advanced 
upward  of  £2,000  for  relief,  which  was  cheerfully  assumed  by  Lower 
Canada,  Nova  Scotia  appropriated  £750,  and  military  stores  to  the 
value  of  many  thousands  of  pounds  were  sent  to  the  miserable  sur- 
vivors 

The  Intercolonial  crosses  the  Miramichi  above  the  forks  by  two 
fine  bridges.  Between  Newcastle  and  Kent  Junction  it  passes  the  small 
stations  of  Dcrbi/,  Chatham  Junction,  Barnabi/  River,  and  Rogersville. 
At  Kent  Junction  the  Kent  Northern  R.  R.  may  be  taken,  for  the  quiet 
little  town  of  Richihiicio,  the  capital  of  Kent  County,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Richihueto  River.  The  neighborhood  is  interesting  to  tourists 
chiefly  for  the  typical  Acadian  town  of  St.  Louis,  with  its  sacred  well 
and  grotto,  7  miles  by  rail  from  Richibucto.  The  fine  summer  hotel  of 
Richibucto,  known  as  "  The  Beaches,"  is  now  closed.  The  name  Richi- 
bucto means  "  the  river  of  fire,"  and  was  applied  not  only  to  the  river 
but  to  a  fierce  tribe  of  savages  that  dwelt  upon  its  shores.  In  1724 
this  tribe,  under  the  leadership  of  their  chief,  the  Great  Wizard,  made 


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ROUTES   FROM   MONCTON. 


an  expedition  to  Canso  and  captured  seventeen  Massachusetts  vessels. 
With  this  fleet  they  were  sailing  homeward  in  triumph  when  they  were 
overtaken  by  two  ships  of  war  which  had  been  sent  in  pursuit  of  them 
from  Boston.  In  the  strange  sea-fight  that  followed  the  Indians  fought 
desperately,  but  were  defeated  and  slain  to  a  man.  After  leaving  Kent 
Junction  we  pass  the  stations  of  Weldford,  Adamsville,  Coal  Branchy 
Canaan,  and  Berry^s  Mills,  in  the  run  of  45  miles  which  brings  us  to  the 
city  of  Moncton.  : 

Moncton* 

JWoncton  is  important  as  a  railway  center.  It  is  a  prosperous 
and  rapidly  growing  town  of  about  10,000  inhabitants,  but  is  not  a 
pretty  town  as  regards  either  its  situation  or  its  buildings.  It  has  a 
sugar  refinery,  cotton- factory,  and  the  works  and  offices  of  the  Inter- 
colonial R.  R.  It  lies  in  a  flat,  inexhaustibly  fertile  farming  region  at 
what  is  known  as  "  The  Bend  "  of  the  PcdUrodiac  River,  a  remarkable 
tidal  stream  flowing  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  extreme  variation 
between  high  and  low  tide  sometimes  reaches  70  ft.;  and  the  flood 
tide  sweeps  up  the  channel  in  a  foaming  wall  of  water  from  4  ft. 
to*6  ft.  high,  which  is  known  as  the  Bore  of  the  Petitcodiac.  The 
shores  of  all  these  tidal  rivers  emptying  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy  are 
lined  with  vast  breadths  of  salt  meadows,  consisting  of  an  alluvial  de- 
posit of  wonderful  depth  and  inexhaustible  fertility.  They  are  re- 
claimed from  the  sea  by  an  elaborate  system  of  dikes,  and  produce 
fabulous  crops  of  hay.  There  are  several  good  hotels  in  Moncton,  of 
which  the  best  are  the  Brunswick,  the  Commercial,  and  the  Royal,  re- 
cently rebuilt ;  rates,  $2  per  day.  From  Moncton  a  railway  runs  to 
the  town  of  Buctouche  (famous  for  its  oysters),  a  distance  of  32  miles. 
Return  tickets  cost  $1.50.  The  chief  hotel  at  Buctouche  is  the  Bay 
View.      J 

Routes  from  Moncton. 

Moncton  to  St.  John,  $2.67  ;  return,  $4.00.  Moncton  to  Charlotte- 
town,  $3.50 ;  return,  $5.30. 

In  the  way  of  choice  of  routes  from  Jloncton  the  traveler  now  ex- 
periences an  emharras  de  richesscs.  If  he  wants  to  do  New  Brunswick 
thoroughly  before  going  outside  of  the  province,  his  best  route  is  as 
follows :  By  Intercolonial  (western  section)  to  St.  John ;  thence  up 
the  river  St.  John  to  Frederidon,  Woodstock,  Grand  Falls,  and  the 
ushing  districts  of  the   Tohique,   Green  River,  and  the  Squattooka, 


ROUTES  FROM  MONCTON. 


133 


lotte- 


Prom  Woodstock  or  Fredericton  by  rail  to  St.  Stephen,  St.  Andrews^ 
Campohello,  and  the  lovely  region  of  Pasmmaquoddy  ;  thence  by  boat 
or  the  cars  of  the  Shore  Line  Ry.  back  to  St.  John.  From  St.  John 
one  may  cross  the  Ray  of  Fundy  to  Digbif  and  thence  up  the  far-famed 
Annapolis  Valley^  through  the  land  of  Evangeline,  by  the  Dominion 
Atlantic  R.  R.  to  Halifax.  From  Halifax  as  a  center  one  may 
conveniently  do  the  eastern  end  of  the  province,  with  Prince  Edward 
Island,  Cape  Breton,  and  the  far-off  ancient  colony  of  Newfoundland ; 
then,  when  ready  to  set  his  face  for  the  land  of  the  eagle,  he  may  take 
the  splendid  steamers  City  of  Halifax  and  Olivette,  of  the  Canada  At- 
lantic and  Plant  Line,  for  Boston.  This  latter  is  a  luxurious  and 
delightful  voyage,  skirting  the  bold  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia  and 
avoiding  the  choppy  seas  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  mouth. 

Another  good  route  is  to  retrace  one's  steps  from  St.  John  to 
Moncton  after  having  finished  the  western  portion  of  New  Brunswick. 
If  one  intends  to  do  Prince  Edviard  Island  and  Cape  Breton,  it  will  be 
best  to  follow  the  main  line  of  the  Intercolonial  from  Moncton  to 
Sackville,  and  thence  across  the  Isthmus  of  Chignecto  to  Amherst, 
where  one  may  visit  the  famous  Chiynccto  Ship  R.  E.  From  Amherst 
he  will  return  by  Intercolonial,  a  distance  of  40  miles,  to  Painsec 
Junction,  whence  a  branch  line  runs  to  the  charming  little  watering- 
place  of  Shediac,  where  there  is  unrivaled  sea-bathing  in  the  warm 
waters  of  Northumberland  Strait.  From  Shediac  one  goes  by  boat  to 
Summerside,  in  Prince  Edward  Island ;  thence  by  rail  down  the  island  to 
the  city  of  Charlottetown,  its  capital ;  thence  by  boat  again  to  Pietou, 
Nova  Scotia,  and  by  rail  from  Plctou  to  Mulgrave,  where  we  cross  the 
Out  of  Caiiso  into  Cape  Breton.  After  having  tasted  the  fishing  and 
scenery  of  Cape  Breton,  then  back  by  rail  to  Pictou  and  Truro,  and 
on  to  Halifax.  By  this  course  one  misses  the  country  between  Am- 
herst and  Truro  along  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial,  which  is,  however, 
neither  beautiful  nor  historic,  but  interesting  mainly  for  its  great  coal- 
mines and  iron-works  at  Spring  Hill  and  Londonderry.  The  latter 
town,  however,  may  he  visited  by  a  short  run  from  Truro,  and  the 
former  by  the  Cumberland  Railway  from  Parrshoro  on  Minas  Basin. 
Having  reached  Halifax  by  this  route  a  traveler  may  then  take  the 
Dominion  Atlantic  Ry.  to  Digby,  making,  if  he  will,  a  detour  from 
Middleton  by  the  Nova  Scotia  Central  to  Bridgcwafer  and  Lunenburg  on 
the  Atlantic  coast.  From  Digby  he  may  cross  the  bay  to  St.  John  by 
the  Prince  Rupert,  a  magnificent  and  speedy  steamer,  and  thence  to 


m' 


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134 


MONCTON   TO   ST.    JOHlf. 


Boston  either  by  rail  or  by  the  splendid  coast  steamers  of  the  Inter- 
national Steamship  Co. ;  or  he  may  go  by  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry. 
to  the  city  of '  Yarmouth,  at  the  extreme  southwest  corner  of  Nova 
Scotia,  and  thence  by  one  of  the  fine  new  steamers  of  the  Yarmouth 
Line — the  Yarmouth  or  the  Boston — by  a  pleasant  ocean  voyage  of 
sixteen  hours  to  the  metropolis  of  New  England. 

From  Moncton  to  St.  John. 

From  Moncton  to  St.  John,  a  distance  of  89  miles,  the  Intercolonial 
•  runs  for  the  most  part  through  a  rich  farming  country,  and,  as  we  ap- 
proach St.  John,  we  catch  many  beautiful  views  from  the  car-windows 
The  fare  to  St.  John  is  |2.67;  return,  $4.  At  Salisbury,  13  miles 
from  Moncton,  the  Intercolonial  is  joined  by  the  Salisbury  and  Harvey 
R.  R.,  which  runs  45  miles  through  the  small  fishing  and  ship-building, 
villages  of  Albert  County  to  its  terminus  on  Shepody  Bay,  an  inlet  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Hilhhoro  is  an  important  village  on  this  line,  and 
has  a  heavy  plasj;er  trade.  At  Albert  Mines  was  once  procured  the 
most  valuable  species  of  coal  which  the  world  has  known.  This  min- 
eral, called  Albertite,  fetched  enormous  prices ;  but  the  supply  is  now 
exhausted,  and  the  village  is  falling  to  decay.  The  coast  villages  of 
Albert  County  are  largely  engrossed  in  the  shad-fisheries.  The  peak 
of  Shepody  3fov.rdain,  called  originally  "  Chapeau  Dieu  "  from  its  crown 
of  clouds,  commands  a  truly  sublime  view.  The  region  it  overlooks  is 
rich  in  minerals  and  game. 

Five  miles  from  Salisbury  is  the  village  of  Pollett  Hiver,  with  good 
trout-fishing  and  fine  scenery  at  Pollett  Falls.  Five  miles  farther  we 
come  to  the  important  village  of  Petitcodiac  (chief  hotels.  Mansard 
House  and  Central)  in  a  district  settled  by  Dutch  loyalists  from  Penn- 
sylvania. Not  far  from  Petitcodiac  are  the  famous  fishing  waters  of 
Canaan  River.  Leaving  Petitcodiac  we  pass  small  stations  with  the 
picturesque  names  of  Anagance,  Penobsqnis,  and  Phtimoeseep.  >  i 

we  reach  the  growing  town  of  Sussex,  the  center  of  the  rich  agric  J 
district  of  Sussex  Vale,  which  contains  the  head-waters  of  the  lovely 
Kenncbccasis,  and  was  settled  by  loyalists  from  New  Jersey.  Between 
Sussex  and  Hampton,  a  distance  of  21  miles,  we  pass  the  stations  of 
Apohaqui  (famous  for  its  mineral  waters),  Norton,  Bloomfield,  and 
Passeheag.  From  Norton  a  new  railroad,  the  Central,  runs  northward 
across  the  Wa^hademoak  through  the  coal  regions  at  the  head  of  Grand 
Lake.     Hampton  is  a  growing  town  on  the  Kennebecasis,  22  miles 


ST.    JOHN. 


135 


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from  St.  John,  and  is  a  favorite  summer  resort  for  the  people  of  that 
city.  From  Hampton  the  Central  Railway  of  New  Brunswick  runs 
about  SO  miles  southeast  to  the  small  town  of  St.  Martins  or  Qitaco 
on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Quaco  is  one  of  the  chief  ship-building  centers 
in  the  province;  its  harbor  is  exceedingly  picturesque,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  cliffs  of  sandstone.  The  promontory  of  Quaco  Head 
is  an  important  landmark  to  Bay-of-Fundy  navigators.  Not  far  from 
the  town  of  Quaco  are  Tracy's  Lake  and  Mount  Tlieobald  Lake^  famous 
for  their  trout. 

Between  Hampton  and  St.  John  the  Kennebecasis  opens  out  into  a 
deep  and  wide  estuary  of  the  river  St.  John,  with  both  shores  fringed 
with  wooded  uplands  in  which  nestles  many  a  quiet  village.  The  sum- 
mer climate  about  this  beautiful  water  is,  like  its  boating  and  its  bath- 
ing, not  to  be  surpassed.  After  passing  the  stations  of  N^atividffewauk, 
Model  Farm,  and  Quispamsis  we  come  to  the  lovely  little  town  of 
Rothemy,  where  many  of  St.  John's  wealthy  citizens  have  their  summer 
homes.  Rothesay  Hall  is  a  good  summer  hotel.  Across  the  wide  water 
of  the  Kennebecasis  from  Gondola  Point  lies  the  secluded  and  beauti- 
ful village  of  Clifton,  famous  for  its  strawberries.  Leaving  Rothesay, 
the  train  skirts  the  Kennebecasis,  passing  the  stations  of  Riverside, 
Torryhurn,  and  Brookville.  On  the  farther  shore,  across  from  Torry- 
burn,  is  the  peculiar  cliff  called  the  "Minister's  Face."  Torryhurn 
House  stands  near  the  famous  Kennebecas" ;  Rowing  Course.  Between 
Torryhurn  and  St.  John,  on  what  is  known  as  the  Marsh  Road,  is  the 
race-course  of  Moose-path  Park.  A  few  miles  east  of  Torryhurn,  toward 
the  coast,  lies  the  favorite  fishing  resort  of  Loch  Lomond,  with  good 
shooting  in  the  neighborhood.  Loch  Lomond  properly  consists  of  three 
lakes,  and  in  their  waters  may  be  caught  not  only  the  ordinary  brook- 
trout,  but  what  is  known  as  the  white  trout.  Bunker^s  and  DahelVs 
are  hotels  on  the  lake.  The  railway  keeps  along  the  river  shore  to 
within  2  or  3  milos  of  the  city,  when  it  leaves  the  water  and  runs 
through  a  marshy  valley,  through  the  manufacturing  suburb  of  Cold- 
brook,  and  into  the  splendid  new  Intercolonial  station  at  St.  John. 

St.  John. 

The  population  of  St.  John  is  over  46,000.  The  chief  hotels  are 
the  Royal,  Victoria,  Dufferin,  and  ISew  Victoria  ;  rates  from  two  to 
four  dollars  a  day.  Electric  cars  (fare  5  cents)  traverse  the  principal 
streets.    The  city  is  well  supplied  with  hacks — fare  30  cents  between 


r 


136 


ST.   JOHN. 


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depot  and  hotels,  50  cents  per  half-hour.  Opera-House,  the  Academy 
of  Music.  Chief  club,  the  Union.  The  ferry  and  bridge  tolls,  for  car- 
riage, are  15  and  20  cents  respectively  each  way.  The  ferry  leaves 
every  fifteen  minutes  from  the  foot  of  Princess  St.  The  up-river 
steamers  of  the  Star  Line  leave  North  End  daily  for  Frederidon  at 
9  A.  M.  The  steamship  Prince  Rupert  of  the  Dominion  Atlantic 
Railway  leaves  for  Digby  at  8.30  a.  m.  and  1  p.  m.  The  steamers  of 
the  International  S.  H.  Co.  leave  at  2  p.  m.  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays, 
Thursdays,  Fridays,  and  Saturdays,  and  6  p.  m.  on  Tuesdays,  during  the 
summer  months.  During  the  winter  they  run  one  and  sometimes  two 
steamers  a  week.  On  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays  the  Fawn  leaves 
Indiantown  at  8  a.  m.  for  Grand  Lake. 

•  The  city  of  St.  John,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Xew  Brunswick, 
has  a  population  of  something  over  45,000,  and  ranks  as  the  sixth  city 
of  the  Dominion.  It  is  an  important  winter  port,  and  as  a  ship-owning 
center  heads  the  list.  St.  John  is  a  creation  of  the  United  Empire 
Loyalists.  The  site  of  the  city  is  historic  ground.  The  first  settlements 
at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  River  were  made  by  the  French  early  in 
the  seventeenth  century.  The  most  stirring  episode  in  the  early  history 
of  the  spot  is  that' of  the  feud  between  Charles  La  Tour,  who  had  a  fort 
at  the  head  of  St.  John  Harbor,  and  his  rival  D'Aulnay  Charnisay,  who 
had  his  headquarters  across  the  bay  at  Port  Royal.  Trading  with  the 
Indians,  and  fishing  and  hunting,  Charles  La  Tour  prospered  in  his  fort 
in  the  St.  John's  mouth.  The  story  of  the  disasters  that  at  length  over- 
took him  has  been  thus  told  by  the  present  writer  in  another  work : 

"But  La  Tour's  chief  good  fortune  lay  in  the  possession  of  a 
woman,  who  appears  to  have  been  in  all  ways  the  fit  wife  for  a  man 
of  his  stamp.  Her  ability,  no  less  than  his  own,  contributed  to  his 
prosperity,  and  losing  her  he  lost  also,  for  the  time,  all  his  life-long 
efforts  had  availed  to  gain.  It  was  through  the  vindictive  jealousy 
of  La  Tour's  brother-lieutenant  in  Acadia,  D'Anlnay  Charnisay,  that 
an  end  came  to  these  fair  prospects.  Holding  undisputed  authority 
over  half  the  territory  of  Acadia,  Charnisay  had  no  joy  in  his  pos- 
sessions while  his  hated  rival  was  in  prosperity  near  him.  Craving 
the  rich  trade  that  flowed  through  the  post  on  the  St.  John,  and 
conscious  of  his  strength  at  the  court  of  France,  he  was  soon  in  open 
hostilities  against  La  Tour  in  Acadia,  and  intriguing  against  him  at 
Versailles.  As  a  result  La  Tour  was  charged  with  treason,  and 
Charnisay  was  authorized  to  seize  and  hold  him  for  triai.  But  La 
Tour  was  behind  his  walls  and  secure  in  the  justice  of  his  cause.  He 
mocked  at  the  royal  mandates  and  made  ready  for  a  struggle.  The 
city  of  Rochelle  came  promptly  to  his  assistance,  while  Charnisay  drew 
re-enforcements  from  Paris.  In  the  spring  of  1643  Charnisay  suddenly, 
with  a  large  force,  blockaded  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John.     Supplies 


ST.    JOHN. 


137 


man 
his 
■long 
ousy 

that 
ority 

pos- 
^ving 

and 


were  low  in  the  fort,  and  a  ship  was  daily  expected  from  Rochelle. 
When  this  arrived  it  was  s ijinalcd  to  keoj)  at  a  safe  distance ;  and  one  , 
cloudy  night  a  boat  slipped  silently  out  of  the  harbor  upon  the  ebb- 
tide. Invisible  in  the  gloom  alon'^;  the  Carleton  shore  and  beneath 
the  rocky  heights  of  Partridge  Island,  it  passed  under  the  very  guns  of 
the  blockading  ships,  and  La  Tour  and  his  wife  were  off  for  Boston  in 
the  Rochelle  vessel.  The  next  development  of  the  situation  was  the 
appearance  of  La  Tour  in  the  harbor,  at  the  head  of  five  New  England 
ships ;  and  Charnisay  was  driven  across  the  bay  to  Port  Royal,  and 
sharply  punished  on  his  own  ground.  Again  he  essayed  the  attack, 
closely  investing  Fort  La  Tour  in  the  hope  of  starving  its  defenders 
into  submission.  But  from  two  spies,  who,  in  tlie  disguise  of  friars, 
had  succeeded  in  penetrating  the  fort,  only  to  be  unmasked  by  Lady 
La  Tour  and  contemptuously  dismissed  unpunished,  he  learned  that 
La  Tour  was  absent,  and  that  the  post  was  under  command  of  his 
wife.  Expecting  an  easy  and  speedy  victory,  he  straightway  ordered 
an  assault,  but  was  met  unflinchingly  by  Lady  La  Tour  at  the  head  of 
the  garrison,  and  obliged  to  draw  off  writhing  with  shame.  But  when 
La  Tour  was  again  away  on  a  trading  expedition  his  enemy  returned 
and  found  the  garrison  weak.  For  three  days  his  assaults  were  re- 
pulsed, but  through  the  treachery  of  a  sentry  he  at  last  gained  an 
entrance.  Even  then  the  bravo  woman  did  not  yield,  but  met  him  so 
intrepidly  at  the  head  of  her  faithful  handful  that  the  dastard  offered 
honorable  terms  of  capitulation.  She  accepted  them,  to  save  the  lives 
of  her  brave  followers.  No  sooner  hiid  the  articles  been  signed,  and 
the  garrison  laid  down  their  arms,  than  Charnisay  hanged  every  man 
of  them  but  one,  whom  he  forced  to  act  as  executioner  to  his  com- 
rades ;  and  Lady  La  Tour  he  led  to  the  gallows  with  a  halter  round 
her  neck,  and  compelled  her  to  witness  the  execution.  Iler  home 
destroyed,  her  husband  ruined  and  in  exile,  and  the  horrible  fate  of 
her  followers  ever  present  in  her  memory,  Lady  La  Tour's  health 
gave  way  and  she  died  within  a  few  months.  This  story  has  been 
made  the  subject  of  a  spirited  ballad  by  Whittier." 

.  From  the  days  of  La  Tour  to  1763  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  was 
the  scene  of  several  naval  encounters  between  French  and  English.  In 
the  latter  year  the  territory  of  northern  Acadia,  now  New  Brunswick, 
was  finally  ceded  to  England.  Three  years  earlier  Mr.  James  Simonds 
had  started  fisheries  on  the  harbor,  but  had  been  driven  away  by  the 
Indians.  In  1764,  however,  with  Mr.  James  White,  Captain  Peabody, 
and  a  party  of  fishermen,  he  repeated  his  attempt,  and  succeeded  in 
establishing  a  little  settlement.  In  1775,  during  the  American  Revolu- 
tion, an  expedition  of  Americans  from  Maine  plundered  the  village  and 
destroyed  the  old  French  fort.  Then  in  the  gray  morning  of  May  18, 
1783,  took  place  the  "  Landing  of  the  Loyalists " ;  and  on  the  grim 
peninsula  of  gray  rock  arose,  as  it  were  in  a  night,  a  city  of  nearly 


( 


138 


St.   JOHN, 


6,000  inhabitants.  Its  first  name  was  Parrtown,  which,  fortunately,  was 
soon  discarded  for  the  present  more  dignified  and  musical  appellation. 
The  nursling  of  the  waters  and  the  fog^,  St.  John  hns  found  her 
most  releutlesd  adversary  in  fire.  In  1837  she  suffered  from  this 
scourge  the  loss  of  over  a  hundred  buildings ;  and  thereafter  like 
calamities  fell  upon  her  from  time  to  time,  till  the  climax  was  reached 
in  the  great  fire  of  June  20,  1877,  which  wiped  out  a  full  third  of  the 
city.  This  catastrophe  has  been  described  elsewhere  by  the  present 
writer,  as  follows : 

Nine  hours  sufficed  for  the  swallowing  of  1,612  buildings  in  the 
fiery  vortex.  The  rocks  held  and  multiplied  the  furious  heat  till  the 
streets  glowed  as  a  furnace,  and  the  most  massive  structures  of  granite 
crumbled  to  powder,  melting  away  swiftly  like  hoar-frost.  The  smoke 
was  vomited  up  to  the  tops  of  the  steeples,  and  there,  driven  on  a  level 
before  the  wind  in  rolling  surges,  formed  a  lurid  roof  which  shut  in 
the  perishing  city.  The  ships  in  the  harbor  were  many  of  them  burned 
before  they  could  escape  from  their  moorings.  Coals  and  hot  ashes 
were  rained  upon  the  villages  miles  about.  In  Fredericton,  84  miles 
distant,  the  sky  to  the  southeast  was  like  a  wall  of  hot  copper  until 
daybreak.  When'  the  flames  died  out  along  the  water's  edge,  all  the 
city  south  of  King  Street  had  gone  down.  In  a  day  or  two  the  centers 
of  the  streets  and  open  squares  were  cool ;  and  as  one  walked,  ankle- 
deep  in  the  soft,  white  ashes,  at  early  morning,  the  scene  was  one  of 
most  weird  and  desolate  grandeur.  The  sun  shone  over  the  dazzling 
ripples  of  the  bay,  over  the  silvered  and  soimdless  spaces  which  had 
been  streets,  and  against  the  unclouded  blue  the  thin  smoke-wreaths 
rising  from  the  cellars  and  masses  of  ruin  took  a  soft  saffron  color. 
Here  and  there  stood  bleak,  tall  chimneys,  red  and  black  and  gray, 
or  thin  fragments  of  high  walls,  loop-holed  and  ragged.  At  intervals 
the  silence  was  broken  by  the  crash  of  some  masonry  that  had  held 
itself  up  th'  agh  the  stress  of  the  trial  and  now  toppled  reluctantly  to 
its  fall.  In  the  center  of  the  squares,  and  in  the  o[)en  country  about 
the  city,  were  hundreds  of  tents  and  sorry  cabins,  wherein  reigned 
a  sort  of  sullen  tumult ;  and  in  spots  a  louder  excitement,  with  piles  of 
bottles  and  flasks  close  in  view,  testified  that  some  treasures  had  been 
recovered  out  of  the  ruin  by  the  endeavor  of  willing  volunteers.  On 
the  site  of  one  isolated  liquor-store,  the  debris  of  which  still  glowed 
most  fervidly,  stood  a  pitiable  old  figure  poking,  with  a  long-handled 
rake,  among  the  ruins,  his  eyes  gleaming  with  delight  whenever  an  un- 
broken bottle  was  resurrected.  St.  John  received  prompt  and  liberal 
aid  in  her  calamity,  and  rose  from  her  fall  with  an  energy  and  vitality 
that  were  marvelous.  All  that  had  been  laid  waste  was  rebuilt  with 
added  splendor,  and  the  new  city  will  compare  more  than  favorably  in 
its  architecture  with  cities  many  times  its  size.  But  even  yet,  with  so 
much  of  her  capital  locked  up  in  costly  blocks,  she  feels  too  vivid  re- 
minders of  that  grievously  staggering  blow. 


ST.   JOttN* 


ISO 


beral 
tality 
with 
ly  in 
ih  so 
id  re- 


in 1889  the  city  of  St.  John  and  the  adjoininp;  city  of  Portland  were 
united  under  one  civic  government — a  step  which  has  given  a  great  im- 
pulse to  the  city's  prosperity.  The  harbor  of  St.  John  is  perfectly 
sheltered  and  kept  clear  of  ice  in  the  severest  winters  by  the  tremen- 
dous Fundy  tide  and  the  great  currcat  of  the  St.  John  River.  It  is 
always  thronged  with  shipping  of  all  kinds,  from  the  stub-nosed  wood- 
boats — and  the  little  red  tugs  that  rush  hither  and  thither  with  a  gi'eat 
black  scow  on  each  arm,  as  it  were — to  the  stately  square-rigged  ships 
that  trade  around  Cape  Horn,  and  the  great  iron  steamers  that  carry 
lumber  across  the  Atlantic.  Occupying  a  high,  rocky  peninsula, 
crowned  with  spires,  the  city  shows  up  admirably  as  one  approaches  it 
by  water.  As  the  artists  say,  it  composes  well.  Behind  it  lies  the 
broad,  shallow,  empty  expanse  of  Courtney  Bay,  across  which  we  see 
the  grim  pile  of  the  Penitentiary.  The  city  is  remarkable  for  its  sober 
coloring.  All  is  gray  stone  or  brownish-gray  wood,  producing  a  color 
effect  which  is  good  under  a  clear  sky,  but  dismal  enough  when  the  fog 
has  rolled  its  dense  curtain  over  the  city,  to  hang,  sometimes,  for  days 
together,  and  touch  the  complexions  of  the  St.  John  women  with  that 
blight  yet  delicate  bloom  for  which  they  are  renowned.  There  is  much 
to  be  said  in  favor  of  the  fog ;  but  most  depressing  is  the  deep,  sepul- 
chral voice  of  the  fog-horn  at  the  harbor  mouth,  whose  periodic  note 
seems  to  issue  with  painful  effort  from  a  throat  which  the  fog  is  chok- 
ing. About  the  head  of  the  harbor,  where  all  available  space  by  the 
water's  edge  is  occupied  by  shrieking  saw-mills,  the  bank  sweeps  in  a 
lofty  ridge  till  it  seems  to  meet  the  Carleton  shore.  Carleton  is  a  dingy 
and  busy  and  superlatively  rocky  suburb  of  St.  John,  occupying  the 
western  side  of  the  harbor. 

One  of  the  most  effective  streets  in  Canada  is  King  Street,  St.  John. 
Truly  magnificent  in  its  breadth,  and  lined  on  both  sides  by  fine  shops, 
it  climbs  straight  up  a  steep  hill  from  the  harbor,  and  terminates  in 
the  dark  foliage  of  King  Square.  At  its  water-foot  is  "  Market  Slip," 
where,  at  low  tide,  a  flock  of  wood-boats,  fishing-smacks,  and  small 
schooners,  are  gathered  on  the  long,  black  slope  of  ooze.  Next  in  im- 
portance to  King  is  Prince  William  Street,  running  southward  at  right 
angles  to  it  to  the  water's  edge  at  Reed's  Point.  On  Prince  William 
Street  are  many  fine  buildings,  chief  of  which  is  the  splendid  Custom- 
House,  the  finest  building  of  the  sort  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  It  is 
built  of  a  rich-toned  sandstone,  from  the  quarries  near  Dorchester. 
The  Post-Office,  City  Hall,  and  Banks  of  New  Brunswick  and  Montreal 


\  I 


140 


8T.    JOHN. 


, 


are  exceedingly  handsome  new  biiilding$i,  all  put  up  since  the  fire. 
Near  Prince  William,  on  the  corner  of  Germain  and  Princess  Sts., 
stands  the  handsome  new  building  of  St.  .lohn's  chief  club,  the  Union. 
On  Oermain  St.,  and  extending  through  to  Charlotte,  is  the  magnifi- 
cent pile  of  TrinUji  Church,  built  of  a  light-grny  stone,  and  rendered 
doubly  effective  by  the  long  and  steep  approach  that  leads  to  its  main 
entrance.  In  the  steeple  is  a  remarkably  fine  chime  of  bells.  Near  by 
is  Queen  Square,  commanding  a  lovely  view  seaward,  and  faced  by  some 
stately  private  residences.  Just  off  this  s(iuare  is  a  veritable  palace  of 
gray  stone,  the  home  of  one  of  St.  John's  wealthiest  merchants.  This 
building,  in  its  simple,  massive,  and  harmonious  proportions,  is,  per- 
haps, from  an  architectual  point  of  view,  the  best  private  house  in 
St.  John.  A  little  east  of  the;  square  is  the  Wir/gins  Male  Orphan  In- 
stitution, a  really  beautiful  structure  of  red  and  gray  sandstone.  By  a 
short  walk  southward,  toward  the  water,  we  reach  the  spacious  Military 
and  Exhibition  Grounds,  formerly  occupied  by  British  troops,  but  now 
the  resort  of  cricketers  and  ball-players. 

King  Square,  ^llready  mentioned,  is  the  most  popular  of  the  city's 
breathing-places.  Its  three  acres  are  set  with  shade-trees,  and  in  the 
center  plays  a  fountain.  Just  beyond  and  adjoining  it  is  the  old  Bury- 
ing-Ground,  whose  tombstones  are  of  interest  to  the  antiquarian  and 
the  searchers  of  epitaphs.  North  of  King  St.,  between  Germain  and 
Charlotte,  lies  the  fine,  spacious  buildins;  of  the  city  market.  On 
Charlotte  St.  also  is  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  building, 
whose  library  and  rtading-room  are  open  from  nine  in  the  morning 
till  ten  at  night.  At  the  head  of  Germain  Street,  on  an  imposing  site, 
stands  the  old  Stone  Church,  and  close  beside  it  Calvin  Church  and  the 
wooden  building  of  the  Mechanics'  Institute.  Some  distance  east  from 
King  Square,  on  Waterloo  St.,  stands  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
the  largest  church  in  New  Brunswick.  This  is  a  beautiful  structure  in 
pointed  Gothic,  built  in  a  striking  combination  of  freestone  and  marble. 
Its  spire  soars  magnificently  over  the  surrounding  buildings.  The  in- 
terior is  massive  and  severe,  and  the  stained-glass  windows  are  exceed- 
ingly good.  The  length  of  the  cathedral  is  200  ft.  and  its  width  at  the 
transepts  110  ft.  Over  one  of  the  great  doors  is  a  fine  marble  bas-relief 
of  the  Last  Supper.  Adjoining  the  cathedral  are  the  Bishop's  Palace 
and  the  Orphan  As3'lura,  on  Cliff  St.,  and  on  the  other  side  the  grim, 
brick  pile  of  the  Nunnery.  By  way  of  Waterloo  St.  we  reach  the 
conspicuous  building  of  the  General  Hospital,  which  occupies  the  crest 


/ 


8T.    JOHN. 


141 


of  a  rocky  hill,  overlooking  the  valley  by  which  the  Intercolonial  pains 
access  to  St.  John.  At  this  point  the  valley  is  a  deep  and  thickly- 
peopled  ravine  dividing  the  main  portion  of  the  city  from  the  lofty  line 
of  Portland  Heights,  among  whose  liarren  rocks  perch  airily  many 
handsome  villas,  and  the  ambitious  pile  of  Reed's  Castle.  In  the 
valley  lie  the  skating-rink,  the  Owen's  Art  School,  the  brick  Church  of 
St.  Stephen,  and  the  tall,  wooden  structure  of  St.  Paul's,  familiarly 
known  as  the  Valletf  Church.  IJcsides  the  churches  already  mentioned, 
there  arc  a  number  of  other  handsome  ecclesiastical  structures  in  the 
city. 

Conspicuous  among  the  Portland  Heights  is  the  bald  eminence  of 
Fort  Howe  HiU^  surmounted  by  a  battery  of  heavy  guns,  and  command- 
ing a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and  harbor.  On  its  naked  slopes 
one  may  conveniently  observe  the  charucter  of  the  rocks  on  which  St. 
John  is  built ;  and  one  ceases  to  wonder  that  the  hand  of  man  has  not 
yet  reduced  St.  John  to  a  level.  Many  of  the  city  streets,  as  it  is,  have 
been  blasted  and  hewn  at  gueat  cost  out  of  the  solid  rock,  which  in 
many  places  towers  high  and  black  above  the  roofs,  and  greatly  re- 
stricts the  citizens'  back  yards.  In  walking  about  St.  John  one  is 
always  going  up  or  down  hill — a  circumstance  whicli  most  visitors  find 
wearisome,  but  which  perhaps  accounts  in  some  degree  for  the  elastic 
and  well-balunced  figures  of  St.  John  women. 

Carlcton,  across  the  harbor  from  St.  John,  and  reached  by  way  of 
the  ferry,  or  the  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Falls,  is  interesting  for  its 
Lunatic  Asylum,  its  Martello  Towers,  its  sea-bathing,  and  its  unusual 
ugliness.  Far  down  the  Carlcton  shore  of  the  harbor  stretches  a  long 
line  of  rocky  flats,  left  naked  at  low  tide,  and  adorned  with  the  long,  pict- 
uresque gray  lines  of  the  herring-weirs.  At  the  extremity  of  the  flats 
rises  a  lofty  white  structure  known  as  "  The  Beacon,"  which  resembles 
ait  high  tide  a  high-decked  river  steamer.  A  little  way  out  beyond  the 
Beacon  lies  the  black,  steep  mass  of  Partridge  Mand,  the  home  of  the 
fog-horn  and  the  lighthouse,  and  the  bulwark  that  shields  the  harbor 
from  the  rage  of  Fundy's  waves. 

The  chief  business  of  St.  John  is  ship-building,  and  the  shipping 
of  lumber  and  plaster ;  but  besides  these  industries  it  has  large  manu- 
facturing interests,  partieidarly  in  iron  castings,  and  the  manufacture 
of  nails,  boots  and  shoes,  cotton,  and  cars  and  machinery.  The  city  also 
conducts  important  herring,  gaspereaux,  and  shad  fisheries.  From  the 
port  of  St.  John  run  steamship  lines  in  every  possible  direction — across 


U2 


UP   THE    RIVER   8T.   JOHN. 


the  Atlantic ;  along  the  American  coant  to  Eastport,  Portland,  Boston, 
and  New  York ;  around  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia ;  up  the  Ray 
of  Fundy  to  Parrsboro  and  Windsor ;  up  the  river  St.  John  and  its  navi- 
gable  tributaries.  Of  these  lines,  those  of  special  interest  to  the  tour- 
ist arc  the  International  S.  S.  Co.,  whose  tine  side-wheel  steamers  (includ- 
ing the  new  palace  steamship  JSt.  Croix)  run  along  the  coast  to  Port- 
and  and  Boston ;  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Itailway,  whose  superb  steamer 
Prince  Rupert  runs  across  the  bay  to  Digby ;  and  the  Star  Line,  plying 
between  St.  John  and  Fredericton.  The  railways  centering  at  St.  John 
are  the  Intercolonial,  the  Canadian  Pacific,  and  the  Shore  Line. 

Up  the  River  St.  John. 

From  St.  John  to  Fredericton  we  may  go  expeditiously  by  the 
trains  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  a  distance  of  67  miles ;  but  the  tourist  should 
go  by  boat  to  Fredericton,  and  there  take  the  C.  P.  R.  for  the  upper 
portions  of  the  river.  To  Fredericton  by  water  the  distance  is  84  miles, 
through  such  varijBd  and  beautiful  scenery  as  has  earned  for  the  river 
St.  John  the  somewhat  extravagant  and  misleading  appellation  of  the 
Rhine  of  America.  The  scenery  of  the  St.  John  possesses  indeed  di- 
versity, breadth,  and  magnificence ;  but  it  lacks  the  "  castled  crags  " 
which  give  their  chief  charm  to  the  banks  of  the  Rhine. 

The  steamers  of  the  Star  Line  are  the  David  Weston  and  the 
Victoria^  which  leave  St.  John  on  alternate  days.  Both  are  comfort- 
able steamers,  but  the  Victoria  is  the  newer  and  faster  boat,  and  the 
traveler  will  do  well  to  await  her  day.  Passengers  are  taken  aboard  at 
the  suburb  of  Tndiantown  (now  North  End)  above  the  Falls  ;  but  at  cer- 
tain times  of  the  tide  the  steamer  runs  down  through  the  falls  to  take 
on  freight  at  the  city  wharves.  It  is  well  worth  one's  while  to  find  out 
the  hour,  varying  with  the  tide,  at  which  the  boat  goes  back  to  North 
End,  and  make  the  trip  up  through  the  gorge  and  beneath  the  bridges. 
The  fare  by  boat  to  Fredericton  is  $1;  by  rail  |2 ;  by  steamer  to 
Fredericton  and  return  by  C.  P.  R.,  %^.\?>. 

The  gorge  is  spanned  at  its  narrowest  portion  by  a  suspension 
bridge  and  by  a  splendid  new  railway  bridge  built  on  the  cantilever 
system.    Just  above  the  bridges  are  the  Falls. 

This  remarkable  phenomenon  was  described  as  follows  by  the  pres- 
ent writer  in  the  pages  of  Picturesque  Canada :  This  cataract  is  of 
interest  even  to  one  satiated  with  cataracts.  It  is  worth  getting 
up  at  daybreak  to  become  acquainted  with,  for  it  stands  almost  alone 


n 


the 

ort- 

the 

ird  at 

cer- 

take 

out 

brth 


)res- 
3  of 
ting 
lone 


UP  THE   RIVER   BT.   JOHN. 


143 


among  waterfalls  in  being  reversible.  At  one  time  it  fallB  in  one 
direction,  in  a  few  hours  it  is  falling  in  tlic  other  direction.  You  go 
away  marveling.  You  return,  of  course,  to  sottle  the  mutter  Anally, 
and  behold,  there  is  not  a  vestige  of  a  fall.  You  look  down  from  the 
suspension  bridge,  and  instotul  of  a  seething  tumult  of  mad  surges  as- 
saulting the  gray  walls  of  the  gorge,  you  see  a  placid  surface,  flecked 
here  and  there  with  gently  wheeling  foam-bubbles.  This  peace  is  but 
temporary  ;  it  passes  away  swiftly.  And  it  is  not  strauf^e  that  vessels 
on  their  way  up  river  seek  to  catch  this  happy  moment  of  mid-tide. 
The  whole  volume  of  the  great  St.  John  River,  which  is  nearly  60i) 
miles  long,  and  4  or  5  in  breadth  half  a  dozen  lengues  above  the  city, 
at  this  point  finds  its  way  to  the  sea  through  a  deep  ravine  a  couple 
of  stone-throws  across,  spanned  by  a  suspension  bridge.  When  the  ebb- 
tide has  emptied  the  harbor,  the  accumulated  river-waters  fall  through 
this  ravine  as  through  a  mighty  sluice-gate.  As  the  tide  returns  the 
fury  of  the  escape  is  diminished,  the  river  i?  gradually  checked,  till  a 
level  is  reached  on  either  side  of  the  great  gate,  and  quiet  reigns  while 
the  antagonists  tnke  a  breathing  space.  Hut  soon  the  tremendous 
Fundy  tide  overpowers  the  river,  bears  it  down,  and  roars  triumphing 
through  to  brim  the  upper  basin.  Before  it  can  accomplish  much  in 
this  direction,  however,  its  retreat  is  ordered,  and  the  recovering  river 
presses  on  its  rear.  This  battle  is  fought  twice  every  day ;  and  the 
river  is  so  far  successful  that  it  holds  its  freedom,  and  can  never  be 
subjugated  into  a  tidal  river  with  drowned  shores  and  banks  of  ooze. 
The  St.  John  is  able  to  guard  its  narrow  pass.  Were  the  gate  to  be 
thrown  wide  open,  as  are  those  of  other  rivers,  the  barbarous  hordes 
of  the  tide  would  overwhelm  miles  on  miles  of  the  low-lying  center  of 
New  Brunswick. 

Leaving  the  wharf  at  North  End,  and  passing  the  high  limestone 
quarries  of  Boar's  Head,  we  steam  up  through  the  narrows,  whose  pre- 
cipitous walls  of  many-colored  rock  resemble,  in  all  but  hue,  a  some- 
what diminished  bit  of  Saguenay  scenery,  though  the  deep  river  flowing 
between  them  teems  with  traffic.  The  cliffs  are  jagged  and  splintered 
and  piled  up  magnificently ;  and  we  recall  the  theory  that  the  path  we 
are  now  following  is  not  the  outlet  by  which  the  St.  John  in  old  times 
sought  the  sea.  It  is  surmised  that  the  river  had  anciently  two  mouths, 
the  one  leading  from  Grand  Bay  through  the  low  lands  west  of  Carle- 
ton,  the  other  from  the  Kennebecasis  down  through  the  *'  Valley  "  be- 
tween St.  John  and  the  Portland  Heights.  The  present  channel  seems 
to  have  been  formed  by  a  violent  rending  asunder  of  the  hills,  which 
was  probably  accomplished  by  the  same  terrific  convulsion  which 
raised  all  the  coast  west  from  St.  John  30  ft.  above  its  former  level. 
The  Indians  say  that  the  Great  Spirit  once  grew  angry  with  the  river 
for  its  arrogance  and  closed  the  passes  against  it.    They  have  another 


144 


UP   THE   RIVER   ST.   JOHN. 


I 


legend  to  the  effect  that  a  great  beaver  appeared  upon  the  earth  and  in 
one  night  built  a  dam  across  the  outlet  and  drowned  all  the  people  of 
the  inland  regions.  The  country  about  the  mouth  of  the  river  (called 
by  the  Etcbcufiins  "  Oolastook  "  and  by  the  Micmacs  "  Ouangondy  ") 
ia  rich  in  traditions  of  the  demigod  GluskAp,  who  had  his  chief 
abode  here  and  called  it  Menagwes. 

MENAGWES. 

Gln^k&p,  the  friend  and  father  of  his  race, 

From  Menagwes,  his  Ivindly  dwelling-place, 

With  help  in  need  went  journeying  three  days'  space; 

And  Menagwes,  left  empty  of  his  ann,  ' 

Naked  of  that  wise  might,  its  shield  from  harm 
Leaned  on  his  name  and  dreaded  no  alarm. 

Bnt  evil  spirits  watched  his  outward  pnth — 

Such  enemies  a  good  man  always  bath— 

And  marked  his  fenceless  dwelling  for  their  wrath. 

With  shock  of  thunder  and  the  lightning's  slings, 
Andiflame,  and  hail,  and  all  disastrous  things. 
They  came  upon  the  tempest's  midnight  wings. 

When  home  at  length  the  hero  turned  again. 
His  huts  were  ashes  and  his  servants  slain, 
And  o'er  the  ruin  wept  a  slow,  great  rain. 

His  own  heart  wept  for  sorrow;  but  no  word 
He  spent  in  wailing.    With  dread  anger  stirred 
He  cried  across  the  sea — and  the  sea  heard— 

And  sent  great  \"hales,  that  bare  him  from  the  strand, 
And,  bending  to  the  guidance  of  his  hand. 
Made  swift  and  sure  his  path  to  Newfoundland. 

In  vast  morass,  and  misty  solitude, 

And  high  cliff-cavern  lurked  the  evil  brood. 

Mocking  at  vengeance  in  derisive  mood. 

But  scarce  the  hero's  foot  had  touched  the  coast 
When  horror  seized  on  all  the  wizard  host. 
And  in  their  hiding-places  hushed  the  boast. 

He  towered  before  them,  gathering  like  a  cloud 
That  blackens  day;  and  when  their  fear  grew  loud, 
His  vengeance  came  about  them  like  a  shroud. 

Then  seeing  that  his  utmost  vengeance  kept 
No  spell  to  break  the  sleep  his  servants  slept, 
GluskapretiuTied  to  Menagwes  and  wept. 


UP  THE  RIVER   ST.   JOHN. 


146 


The  St.  John  River,  so  called  by  Champlain  because  it  was  dis- 
covered on  St.  John's  Day,  1604,  has  a  course  of  about  450  miles,  of 
which  the  lower  225  miles  lie  within  the  province.  It  is  navigable  to 
Frederidon,  84  miles  from  the  mouth,  and  for  light-draught  stern- 
wheel  steamers  75  miles  farther,  to  Woodstock.  It  receives  a  number 
of  large  tributaries,  and  drains  a  highly  fertile  farming  and  timber 
country. 

About  3  miles  above  St.  John,  North  End,  our  steamer  emerges 
from  the  narrows  into  the  9-mile-broad  expanse  of  Grand  Bay.  On 
our  right,  between  two  high  rounded  headlands,  lies  the  mouth  of  the 
Kennebecasis,  on  whose  splendid  rowing-course  took  place  the  famous 
boat-race  between  the  "  Paris  crew,"  of  St,  John  (so  called  from  its 
conquest  of  the  world's  championship  at  Paris),  and  the  Tyne  crew, 
from  the  north  of  England — a  struggle  in  which  Renforth,  the  stroke 
of  the  Tyne  crew,  lost  his  life.  Behind  us,  to  the  left,  stretches  the 
ample  basin  of  South  Bay,  ever  crowded  with  rafts  and  set  about  with 
saw-mills. 

As  we  cross  Grand  Bay  the  river  shores  again  draw  together.  In 
the  fresh  light  of  the  morning  wonderfully  beautiful  is  the  contrast 
between  the  high  shores  of  vivid  green,  dotted  with  glittering  white 
farm-houses,  the  fringing  yellow  beach,  and  the  deep  blue  of  the 
ruffled  river.  Soon  after  passing  the  landing-place,  called  Brundage\ 
we  enter  the  Long  Beach  where,  for  a  distance  of  20  miles,  the  river 
pursues  an  almost  straight  course  between  high  shores  from  3  to  5 
miles  apart.  These  shores  consist  of  beautiful  rounded  hills,  some 
cultivated,  some  richly  wooded,  diversified  by  fairy  valleys  and  sleepy 
villages  and  bits  of  meadow.  The  magnificent  expanse  of  the  river  is 
dotted  with  the  sails  of  wood-boats,  yaclits,  and  schooners ;  and  there 
are  usually  several  little  steamers  in  sight,  busy  hauling  rafts  of  logs 
to  the  saw-mills.  As  we  near  a  point  of  land  a  boat  puts  out  to  meet 
us,  and  the  steamer,  with  a  hoarse  whistle,  slackens  speed.  As  the 
boat  approaches,  its  bow  high  out  of  water,  we  see  that  it  is  propelled 
by  a  solitary  waterman,  and  carries  in  its  stern  a  woman,  dressed  in  her 
best,  and  holding  an  ancient,  black  parasol  over  herself  and  a  box  of 
codfish,  which  latter  is  probably  a  consignment  for  some  secluded 
grocery  farther  up  stream.  Vigorously  our  paddles  reverse  as  the  little 
craft  closes  in  perilously  beneath  our  high,  white  side.  Her  bow  is 
grappled  with  the  iron  beak  of  a  pike-pole,  she  is  held  firmly  to  the 
gangway  for  a  moment,  and  codfish  and  female  are  nimbly  transferred 
10 


\ 


146 


UP   THE   RIVER   ST.    JOHN. 


to  our  lower  deck.     In  anothei*  minute  we  are  once  more  throbbing 
onward,  while  the  skiff  dances  in  our  wake  like  an  eccentric  cork. 

On  the  western  shore  of  Long  Reach,  17  miles  from  St.  John,  lies 
the  lovely  summer  resort  of  Weatfidd.  Two  miles  farther  is  the  land- 
ing of  Greenwich  Hill.  Six  miles  beyond  is  Oak  Pointy  a  hamlet  of 
most  unusual  beauty.  Between  Greenwich  Hill  and  Oak  Point,  on  the 
same  shore,  is  the  lofty  wooded  ridge  called  the  Devil's  Back.  At  the 
head  of  the  reach  is  a  cluster  of  high,  rocky  islands  covered  with  birch 
and  fir.  The  typical  Island  of  St.  John,  of  which  we  shall  pass  so  many 
that  we  may  as  well  dispose  of  them  all  at  once,  is  a  large  or  small 
fragment  of  alluvial  meadow  called  "  interval,"  fringed  with  alder  and 
Indian  willow,  and  dotted  with  here  and  there  a  splendid  elm,  and  here 
and  there  a  haystack.  One  of  these  islands  which  we  shall  pass  is 
little  more  than  the  bushy  rim  to  a  broad  pool,  where  ducks  and  herons 
chiefly  congregate.  "  The  Mistake  "  is  a  long,  narrow  peninsula  much 
resembling  an  island,  and  when  the  unwary  navigator  has  traveled  2 
or  3  miles  up  the  inlet  which  sei)arates  it  from  the  western  shore  he 
realizes  vividly  the  appropriateness  of  the  name.  Just  above  the  Mis- 
take, on  the  ebst  shore,  is  the  deep  inlet  of  Belleisle  Bay,  a  mile  wide 
and  14  miles  long.  An  am  of  this  bay  is  Kingston  Creek,  at  the  head 
of  which  among  the  hills  lies  the  secluded  and  romantic  village  of 
Kingston.  Near  Kingston  is  a  remarkable  little  lake  called  Pickwaa- 
keet,  which  occupies  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano.  River  landings 
at  which  the  steamer  calls  after  leaving  the  village  of  Tennant's  Cove 
(29  miles)  at  the  mouth  of  Belleisle  Bay,  are  Hampstead  (33  miles), 
Wickham  (34  miles),  and  Otnabog  (40  miles),  at  the  outlet  of  Otna- 
bog  Lake.  Then  we  pass  the  Lower  Musquash  Island,  behind  which, 
on  the  east  shore,  hides  the  deep  mouth  of  the  Washademoak,  which  is 
a  sort  of  a  compromise  between  a  river  and  a  lake,  and  has  a  rich 
farming  region  about  its  shores.  After  passing  the  Upper  Musquash 
Island  the  steamer  turns  into  a  cove  on  the  west  shore  and  draws  up 
to  the  wharf  of  Gagetown^  50  miles  from  St.  John.  This  sleepiest  of 
river  villages  is  the  shire  town  of  Queen's  County,  and  seems  the  exact 
counterpart  of  Robert  Buchanan's  "  Drowsytown  " : 

"  Ob,  so  drowsy  !    In  a  daze 
Sweating  'mid  the  golden  haze, 
With  its  one  white  row  of  street 
Carpeted  so  green  and  sweet, 
And  the  loungers  smoking  still 
Over  gate  and  window-sill ; 


.1, 


•e  throbbing 
ic  cork, 
t.  John,  lies 
is  the  land- 
El  hamlet  of 
oint,  on  the 
ck.     At  the 
I  with  birch 
iss  so  man}' 
Se  or  small 
h  alder  and 
n,  and  here 
all  pass  is 
and  herons 
isula  much 
traA'eled  2 
1  shore  he 
vc  the  Mis- 
.  mile  wide 
it  the  head 
I  village  of 
ickwaa- 
landings 
int's  Cove 
miles), 
of  Otna- 
d  which, 
which  is 
a  rich 
usquash 
raws  up 
piest  of 
le  exact 


53 


1 


IS 

f 


UP   THE   RIVER   ST.   JOHN. 


147 


I  Nothing  coming,  nothing  going, 

'  Locusts  grating,  one  cock  crowing,  f"  • 

Few  things  moving  up  or  down,  '        '      ' 

All  things  drowsy— Drowsytown." 

Leaving  Gagetown  the  steamer  heads  down  river  a  short  distance 
order  to  round  the  foot  of  Grimross  Island,  and  passes  on  the  east 
shore  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  River,  which  the  inhabitants  call  the 
"  Jumsack."  This  deep,  narrow,  and  sluggish  stream  is  the  outlet  of 
Grand  Lake,  a  fine  body  of  water  30  miles  in  length,  surrounded  by  a 
rich  agricultural  and  coal-bearing  region.  The  shores  of  the  lake 
abound  in  fossils.  The  Jemseg  banks  are  clothed  with  historic  asso- 
ciations. In  1640  a  strong  fort  was  erected  at  the  mouth.  This  was 
captured  by  an  English  expedition  in  1654,  but  restored  to  the  French 
in  1610.  In  1739  the  Seigniory  of  Jemseg  contained  116  inhabitants. 
Under  M.  de  Villebon  it  was  made  the  capital  of  Acadia,  an  honor 
which  was  afterward  transferred  to  Fort  Nashwaalv,  opposite  the  point 
of  land  now  occupied  by  Fredericton.  In  1'7'76  an  army  of  600  In- 
dians gathered  on  the  Jemseg,  to  lay  waste  all  the  settlements  of  the 
St.  John  Valley  ;  but  the  firmness  of  the  Oromocto  settlers  overawed 
them,  and  they  suffered  themselves  to  be  mollified  with  presents.  A 
little  above  Gagetown  we  enter  the  county  of  Sunbury,  which  once 
comprised  the  whole  of  New  Brunswick,  but  is  now  the  smallest  of  her 
counties.  It  is  also  the  most  fertile.  Its  low,  rich  meadows  are  cov- 
ered with  water  in  the  spring  freshets,  when  the  inhabitants  move  about 
in  skiffs,  the  row-boat  instead  of  the  carriage  is  brought  to  the  front 
door,  the  children  explore  in  wash-tubs  the  farthermost  recesses  of 
the  farm-yard,  and  the  farmer  sets  his  nets  for  gaspereaux  where  a 
little  later  he  will  be  plowing  and  planting  in  a  hot  sun  with  no  drop 
of  water  in  sight  save  what  he  carries  in  his  tin  bucket.  Passing 
Mauger's  Island  we  see  on  our  left  the  village  church  of  Burton,  on  our 
right  the  white  walls  of  Sheffield  Academy,  now  the  County  Grammar 
School.  A  little  beyond,  on  the  right  shore,  lies  the  scattered  village 
of  MaugervUle  behind  its  willows,  the  first  English-speaking  settlement 
established  in  New  Brunswick.  It  was  planted  in  1763  by  pioneers 
from  the  parishes  of  Rowley,  Boxford,  and  Andover,  in  Massachusetts, 
and  speedily  became  a  flourishing  community.  During  the  Revolution 
the  inhabitants  declared  for  the  Americans,  and  all  but  twelve  of  them 
signed  resolutions  repudiating  Great  Britain.  Massachusetts  sent  them 
arms  and  ammunition,  and  in  an  outburst  of  warlike  fervor  the  Mau- 


r 


148 


FREDERIOTON. 


gervillians  organized  an  expedition  against  Fort  Cumberland  on  the 
Isthmus  of  Chignecto.  There  they  found  a  schooner  stranded  on  the 
mud,  and  this  easy  prize  they  captured ;  but  the  sight  of  the  fort  dis- 
mayed them;  and  they  altered  their  intention  of  carrying  it  by  storm. 
The  schooner  they  took  away  and  sold.  They  were  afterward  com- 
pelled to  make  restitution  to  the  vessel's  owners ;  but,  this  done,  a 
lenient  Government  indulgently  overlooked  their  folly. 

Just  above  Maugerville,  on  the  opposite  shore,  lies  the  county  town 
of  Sunbury,  the  village  of  Oromodo,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto 
River.  Here  of  old  stood  a  fort  for  protection  against  the  Indians. 
The  Oromocto  is  a  deep  and  narrow  stream,  navigable  for  small  craft 
a  distance  of  22  miles.  On  its  upper  waters,  and  particularly  in  Oro- 
mocto Lake,  there  is  excellent  trout-fishing.  In  its  lower  reaches  pick- 
erel abound.  Off  the  mouth  of  the  river  lie  Thatch  Island  and  the  great 
meadowy  expanse  of  Oromocto  Island.  Here  we  are  74  miles  from  St. 
John  and  about  10  miles  from  Fredericton.  Five  miles  farther  up  the 
boat  calls  at  the  interminable  booms  of  Glasier^s,  where  logs  from  up 
river  are  put  together  into  rafts  to  be  towed  to  St.  John.  Along  toward 
the  middle  of  tne  afternoon  we  catch  sight  of  the  smoke  which  rises 
over  "  The  Mills,"  a  mile  below  Fredericton.  Then  the  river  widens 
out,  and  over  its  shining  expanse  we  see  the  long  bridges,  the  spires, 
and  the  billowy  foliage  of  the  city  of  elms,  Fredericton,  which  is  called 
by  New-Brunswickers,  in  aflfectionate  banter,  the  "  Celestial  City." 


I 


Fredericton. 

The  population  of  Fredericton  (estimated)  is  8,000.  The  chief  hotels 
are  the  Queen's  and  Barker  House.  Cab  fares  are  25  cts.  for  a  course 
within  the  city.  The  livery  stables  of  Fredericton  are  good  and  much 
patronized,  and  the  charges  very  moderate.  The  fare  between  Freder- 
icton and  St.  John  by  boat  is  only  $1.  Fare  by  rail  to  Woodstock, 
$2;  Grand  Falls,  $8.80;  Edraundson,  $4.80;  return,  $3,  $5.70,  and 
$7.20.  Fare  to  St.  Stephen,  $3.15  ;  St.  Andrews,  $3.25  ;  return,  $4.75 
and  $4.90. 

The  history  of  Fredericton  begins  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaaky 
an  important  tributary  of  the  St.  John,  which  flows  in  immediately  op- 
posite Fredericton.  Hither  in  1692  came  Villebon,  from  the  Jemseg, 
to  be  nearer  his  Melicite  allies.  Here  he  built  a  large  and  well-stock- 
aded fort,  which  in  the  autumn  of  1696  was  attacked  by  the  New-Eng- 
landers,  under  Colonel  Hawthorne  and  old  Benjamin  Church.   Villebon, 


hwaak, 
ely  op- 
emseg, 

stock- 
v-Eng- 

lebon, 


FREDERICTON. 


149 


beins:  forewarned,  was  forearmed.  That  redoubtable  ecclesiastic,  Father 
Simon,  brought  thirty-six  of  his  Medoctcc  warriors  to  swell  the  garrison, 
and  all  was  enthusiasm  within  the  fort.  The  New-Englandcrs  landed 
with  three  cannon  near  the  S.  shore  of  the  stream,  on  a  point  now  much 
frequented  by  the  schoolboys  of  Fredericton  in  the  cherry  season. 
Truly  it  is  a  charming  spot,  and  its  cherries  are  marvelously  great  and 
sweet  and  abundant.  But  the  New-Englanders  found  little  pleasure 
therein.  The  fire  from  the  fort  by  day  dismounted  one  of  their  guns, 
and  suflfered  them  not  to  work  the  others  with  any  degree  of  comfort, 
while  by  night  a  plentiful  hail  of  grape  upon  all  such  watch-fires  as 
they  lighted  drove  them  to  sleep  unwarmed  and  wet,  whence  came  in 
the  morning  much  rheumatism  and  complaining.  The  undertaking 
became  unpopular  in  the  invaders'  camp,  and,  under  cover  of  the  next 
night,  they  forsook  it  and  fled.  In  the  autumn  of  1698  the  garrison 
was  removed  to  Fort  La  Tour,  which  had  been  rebuilt  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  John,  and  after  Villebon's  death  in  1700  the  Nashwaak  fort 
was  demolished.  Nothing  now  remains  to  remind  us  of  those  exciting 
though  uncomfortable  times  save  some  green  mounds  where  once  stood 
Villebon's  ramparts,  or  a  few  rust-eaten  cannon-balls  which  the  farmer 
gathers  in  with  his  potato-crop. 

In  the  year  following  the  erection  of  New  Brunswick  into  a  province 
the  capital  was,  for  strategic  reasons,  removed  from  St.  John  to  what 
was  then  known  as  St.  Anne's  Point,  now  Fredericton.  For  a  long 
while  Fredericton  was  the  headquarters  of  a  British  regiment.  Now  it 
is  the  seat  of  a  military  school,  and  the  post  of  a  company  of  Canadian 
regulars.  Being  a  military,  political,  judicial,  educational,  and  ecclesi- 
astical center,  Fredericton  was  for  a  long  time,  from  a  commercial  point 
of  view,  rather  unprogressive ;  but  within  the  last  few  years  she  has 
begun  to  throw  off  her  lethargy,  and  enlarge  both  her  trade  and  her 
population.  She  has  become  a  railroad  center,  no  fewer  than  four  lines 
radiating  from  this  point ;  and  additional  lines  are  proposed,  with  every 
prospect  of  their  construction.  She  is  the  distributing  point  for  a  large 
and  rich  agricultural  section,  the  headquarters  of  an  immense  lumber- 
trade,  of  cotton  and  leather  manufacturing,  and  of  extensive  canning 
operations.  With  a  population  of  only  about  8,000,  Fredericton  has  a 
disproportionate  share  of  public  institutions  and  fine  buildings,  and  her 
society  derives  special  individuality  and  charm  from  the  influences 
which  there  concentrate  themselves. 

The  streets  of  Fredericton  are  broad  and  level,  overarched  for  the 


150 


FREDEEICTON. 


I  / 


most  part  with  elms  of  stately  growth,  and  wearing  generally  an  air  of 
quiet  prosperity.  The  main  business  street  is  Queen  St.,  running  the 
whole  length  of  the  city  near  the  water  front.  One  side  of  this  street 
is  lined  with  shops.  The  other  side  has  business  houses  on  its  upper 
and  lower  blocks,  but  is  occupied  along  its  central  portion  by  the  Offi- 
cers' Square  with  its  lawns  and  tennis-grounds  and  battery  of  little 
cannon,  the  gray-stone  buildings  of  the  Officers'  Quarters,  the  hand- 
some Post-Office  and  Custom-Ilousc,  the  Barracks  and  Parade  Ground, 
the  graceful  red  brick  structure  of  the  Provincial  Normal  School,  and 
the  brick  block  of  the  City  Hall,  with  its  clock-tower  over  the  front 
and  a  ludicrous  little  perky  appendage,  like  a  rudimentary  tail,  stick- 
ing up  on  its  rear.  From  just  above  the  Post-Office  the  long  white 
structure  of  the  passenger  bridge  runs  across  the  river  to  the  subur- 
ban village  of  St.  Mary^Sy  on  whose  outskirts  hangs  an  interesting 
little  settlement  of  Melicite  Indians,  some  of  whom  are  famous  hunt- 
ers, guides,  and  canoc-men.  Near  the  lower  end  of  Queen  St.,  where 
it  is  joined  by  King  and  Brunswick,  stands  the  beautiful  little  Anglican 
cathedral  of  the  (^iocese  of  Fredericton.  This  is  a  harmoniously  pro- 
portioned structure  in  pure  Gothic,  built  of  gray-stone  with  window- 
casings  of  white  Caen  stone.  It  occupies  the  center  of  spacious  triangular 
grounds,  beautifully  wooded.  Just  below  it  the  river  is  crossed  by  the 
splendid  steel  bridge  which  connects  the  Canadian  Pacific  with  the 
Canada  Eastern  R.  R.  at  the  busy  village  of  Gibson  on  the  opposite 
shore.  In  the  block  above  the  Cathedral  stand  the  new  Farliament 
and  Departmental  Buildings,  taking  the  place  of  the  old  buildings 
which  were  destroyed  by  fire.  The  main  building  is  a  handsome  and 
solid  structure  of  freestone  and  light  gray  granite,  which  would  be  en- 
tirely satisfactory  but  for  the  attenuated  dome  which  surmounts  it  and 
much  resembles  a  pepper-pot.  In  its  rear  is  the  fire-proof  library, 
containing  an  invaluable  collection  of  the  plates  of  Audubon's  "  Birds," 
once  owned  by  Louis  Philippe.  On  the  side  of  the  block  facing  St.  John 
St.  is  the  handsome  purple  sandstone  structure  containing  the  Govern- 
ment offices.  In  winter,  when  the  Provincial  Parliament  is  in  session, 
this  is  a  busy  quarter  of  Fredericton. 

At  the  extreme  upper  end  of  the  city  are  the  new  Victoria  Hospi- 
tal, and  the  severe  stone  pile  of  irovernment  House  in  its  spacious 
grounds.  Scattered  through  the  city  are  many  churches,  of  various 
denominations.  The  most  noticeable  of  these  are  the  handsome  stone 
structures  belonging  to  the  baptists  and  the  Presbyterians,  standing 


and 
en- 
and 
i-ary, 
ds," 
Fohn 
ern- 
don. 


lOUS 

one 
ing 


FREDERICTON. 


151 


within  a  block  of  each  other  on  York  St. ;  and  the  exquisite  little  parish 
church,  called  Christ  Church,  on  the  corner  of  George  and  Westmore- 
land Sts.  This  edifice  is  of  an  Old  English  pattern,  and  carries  a  silvery 
chime  of  three  bells.  Back  of  Frcdericton  rises  a  line  of  wooded 
heights,  whereon  are  some  good  private  residences,  and  the  massive 
old  building  of  the  New  Brunswick  University,  crowning  a  succession 
of  terraces.  This  was  of  old  King's  College  of  New  Brunswick,  estab- 
lished by  royal  charter  in  1828,  under  tlie  auspices  of  Sir  Howard 
Douglas.  It  is  now  a  Provincial  Institution,  and  is  doing  good  work 
under  the  management  of  President  Harrison.  From  its  cupola  we 
get  a  wide  and  lovely  view.  At  our  feet  lies  the  city  in  its  billows  of 
green,  bounded  by  the  broad  and  shining  arc  of  the  St.  John.  Above 
and  below  extends  the  river,  dotted  in  the  one  direction  with  islands, 
in  the  other  with  the  sails  of  wood-boats.  Straight  across  opens 
the  fair  Nashwaak  Valley,  with  the  village  of  Marysville  in  the  dis- 
tance. Opposite  the  upper  end  of  the  city  we  mark  the  mouth  of  the 
Nashwaaksis,  or  little  Nashwaak,  which  boasts  a  pretty  cataract  some 
10  or  12  miles  from  its  mouth. 

On  the  outskirts  of  Fredericton,  half  a  mile  above  Government 
House,  stands  a  picturesque  old  mansion  called  "  l^ie  Hermitage,''^ 
which  is  rapidly  falling  to  ruin.  In  the  gay  old  days  of  British  mili- 
tary and  "family  compact"  rule,  "The  Hermitage"  was  a  famous 
social  center.  Now  its  deserted  chambers  are  romantically  supposed 
to  be  haunted,  and  its  spacious  and  well-wooded  grounds  are  a  favorite 
resort  of  the  city's  picnic  parties.  Continuing  on  past  The  Hermitage, 
a  very  lovely  drive  extends  up  the  river  shore  some  4  m.  or  more  to 
the  village  of  Springhill.  Another  interesting  drive  is  across  the 
river  to  Gibson,  and  thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Nashwaak  about  3 
miles  to  the  growing  town  of  Marysville,  the  creation  of  the  gigantic 
cotton  and  lumber  mills  of  Alexander  Gibson.  This  trip  may  be  made, 
if  one  prefers,  by  the  Canada  Eastern  R.  R.,  which  runs  through  the 
town  on  its  way  to  the  Miramichi  and  its  salmon-pools.  After  the  vast 
cotton-mill,  the  chief  point  of  interest  in  Marysville  is  the  beautiful 
little  church  erected  by  Mr.  Gibson. 

With  all  the  beautiful  and  accessible  waterways  that  surround  it, 
no  wonder  Fredericton  is  the  very  home  of  the  birch-bark  canoe.  Her 
inhabitants  easily  equal,  and  often  excel,  the  Indians  in  the  manage- 
ment of  this  fascinating  little  craft.  An  easy  and  charming  canoe- 
trip  may  be  taken  from  Fredericton  down  the  river  to  St.  John,  an 


r 


152 


FREDERICTON   TO   WOODSTOCK. 


indolent  voyage,  with  no  fishing  or  hard  paddling  to  do,  and  villages 
all  along  the  way  to  supply  provisions. 

\ 

.  t  ' 

.<  Fredericton  to  Woodstock. 

In  spring  and  autumn,  when  the  river  is  high,  the  steamer  Aber- 
deen of  the  Star  Line  plie.s  between  Fredericton  and  Woodstock^  a 
distance  of  60  miles.  All  the  points  of  interest  along  this  route  will 
soon  be  accessible  by  rail,  as  a  line  is  under  construction  along  the 
western  shore  of  the  St.  John.  It  traverses  the  populous  settlements 
of  Prince  William  and  Queensbury,  peopled  by  descendants  of  dis- 
banded loyalist  soldiers.  The  finest  scenery  on  the  trip  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Pokiok  River,  by  which  the  waters  of  Lake  George  find  outlet 
to  the  St.  John.  The  Pokiok  Falls  are  about  40  ft.  in  height ;  and 
after  this  plunge  the  river  roars  and  leaps  through  a  gorge  1,200  ft.  in 
length,  whose  perpendicular  walls,  75  ft.  high,  are  less  than  30  ft. 
apart.  The  signification  of  Pokiok  is  "  The  Dreadful  Place."  Lake 
George  is  somewhat  renowned  for  its  productive  antimony-mines.  Near 
Pokiok  is  Prince  William  Lake,  and  a  little  beyond  the  Sheogomuc 
Lake  and  River.  At  Canterbury  the  road  crosses  Eel  River,  the 
outlet  of  Eel  and  North  Lakes,  from  which  a  famous  portage  (whose 
deserted  paths  arc  worn  deep  by  the  many  Indian  feet  that  trod  them 
of  old)  leads  to  the  Chiputneticook  Lakes  and  the  St.  Croix,  and  thence 
to  Passamaquoddy  Bay.  By  this  route  went  the  troops  of  Villebon 
many  a  time  to  ravage  the  New  England  borders.  Five  miles  beyond 
Eel  River  is  the  site  of  the  old  French  fort  Medoctec,  beside  the 
rapids  and  Melicite  village  of  the  s.ame  name.  This  district  was  of 
old  the  Seignory  of  the  Sieur  Clignancourt,  and  was  held  an  important 
center,  owing  to  the  necessity  of  making  a  portage  at  this  point  to 
avoid  the  rapids.  These,  however,  the  steamer  surmounts,  as  a  rule, 
without  great  difficulty.  The  approach  to  Woodstock,  whether  by  land 
or  water,  is  picturesque  and  charming,  the  high,  rounded  hills  being 
well  tilled  and  crowned  with  groves  and  cottages.  Fare  by  boat, 
$2.50. 

The  best  route  to  Woodstock  at  present,  available  at  all  seasons, 
is  by  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  from  Gibson.  Or  we  may  take  the  train  on  the 
Fredericton  side,  at  the  little  temporary  Bridge  Station,  soon  to  be  re- 
placed by  a  union  depot.  A  mile  above  the  station  we  pass  through 
St.  Mary's,  already  referred  to,  and  2  miles  farther  we  cross  the  Nash- 


FREDERIOTON   TO    WOODSTOCK. 


153 


the 
Ire- 

Bh- 


waaksia  at  Douglas  Station.  For  the  next  8  or  10  milea  we  get  fine 
views  of  river  and  islands  from  the  car-windows,  and  at  the  niouth  of 
the  Keswiclc  River  (called  "  Kissaway  "  by  the  dwellers  on  its  banks)  a 
splendid  expanse  of  interval  country  spreads  before  our  eyes.  From 
this  point  the  railroad  climbs  the  pleasant  Keswick  Valley,  passing  a 
number  of  unimportant  stations.  Upper  Keswick  is  17  miles  from 
Keswick.  Beyond  the  road  traverses  a  rather  desolate-looking  region, 
till  again  it  nears  the  rich  St.  John  Valley  at  Newburgh.  In  the  wilder- 
ness it  crosses  the  Nackawic  (43  miles  from  Fredericton)  and  Falls 
Brook,  both  trout-streams.  At  Woodstock  Junction  a  branch  diverges 
and  runs  down  river  a  short  distance  to  Woodstock,  affording  varied 
and  delightful  views  between  the  rounded  hills.  Over  the  high  railroad 
bridge  we  steam  slowly  into  the  progressive  little  town  of  Woodstock^ 
the  shire-town  of  Carleton  County,  and  the  chief  commercial  center  on 
the  river  above  Fredericton. 

Woodstock  has  good  hotels  in  the  American  and  the  Carlisle 
House.  The  town  is  well  situated  on  the  uplands  at  the  junction  of 
the  Maduxnakeag  stream  with  the  St.  John,  and  has  a  rich  farming 
country  behind  it  supplying  a  large  local  trade.  Its  4,000  or  so  of  in- 
habitants are  plucky  and  enterprising,  and  have  recovered  bravely 
from  the  losses  to  which  they  have  been  subjected  by  numerous  fires. 
Around  the  mouth  of  the  Maduxnakeag  is  a  cluster  of  saw-mills.  A 
short  distance  above  the  town  are  the  now  abandoned  iron-mines, 
where  a  peculiarly  dense  and  hard  quality  of  iron  was  formerly  ex- 
tracted. The  village  of  Upper  Woodstock  is  familiarly  and  disre- 
spectfully known  as  "Hardscrabble."  The  whole  district  is  peculiarly 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  grain  and  fruit,  and  is  sometimes  called  "  the 
orchard  of  New  Brunswick."  Nineteen  miles  distant,  and  reached 
by  a  section  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R.,  is  the  American  town  of  Houlton,  in 
Maine. 

The  Upper  St.  John. 

To  continue  our  journey  up  the  St.  John  we  recross  the  river  and 
retrace  our  way  to  Newburg  Junction,  6  miles  distant.  Passing  Hart- 
land  (13  miles  from  Woodstock)  and  Peel  (1*7  miles)  we  come  to 
the  station  of  Florenccville  (24  miles).  The  village  lies  across  the 
river,  and  is  reached  by  a  ferry.  Its  situation  is  remarkably  pictur- 
esque, on  the  wind-swept  crest  of  a  high  ndge.  A  few  miles  southwest 
of  Florenccville  rises  Mars  Hill,  a  steep  mountain  about  1,200  ft.  high, 


154 


TlIK   UPPKK   ST.    JOHN. 


I  / 


which  overlooks  a  vast  cxpnnso  of  fori'st.  This  was  one  of  the  chief 
points  of  controversy  during  tlie  old  border  troubles,  and  its  summit 
was  cleared  by  the  commissioners  of  1794.  Beyond  Florenccville  the 
charm  of  the  landsenpe  deepens.  The  railway  keeps  close  to  the  river. 
From  the  villnye  of  Kent,  3  miles  farther,  where  we  cross  the  Shikiti- 
hauk  stream,  a  portage  of  15  miles  leads  to  the  upper  waters  of  the 
southwest  Miramiehi.  (Juides  and  canoes  for  this  trip  may  be  engaged 
in  Frederieton.  Tassing  Biith  Station,  and  th»;  IJrook  Munquauk,  we 
come  to  Muti'uic,  15  miles  from  Florenccville,  where  tlie  Muniac  stream, 
descending  through  a  roeky  glen,  brawls  beneath  the  track.  In  this 
neighboihood  there  is  a  peninsula  jutting  out  from  the  river  shore, 
aroimd  whicli  the  channel  makes  a  long  delonr,  while  the  portage  across 
the  isthmus  is  short  und  easy.  The  Melicites  say  that  once  upon  a 
time,  when  an  army  of  their  enemies  was  encamped  on  the  shore  op- 
posite the  point,  preparing  to  attack  the  villages  below,  which  had  been 
left  defenseless  while  the  braves  were  off  on  the  war-path,  a  clever  ru»e 
was  practiced  here  which  saved  the  villages.  Six  ifelicite  warriors,  re- 
turning down  rive?  in  their  canoes,  discovered  the  invaders'  camp  and 
took  in  the  situation.  Fir.st  one  canoe  paddled  swiftly  down,  keeping 
to  the  safe  side  of  the  river.  Then  at  a  short  interval  came  the  second, 
and  after  another  brief  space  the  third.  Meanwhile  the  two  Indians 
in  the  first  canoe,  as  soon  as  they  were  well  out  of  sight  around  the 
point,  landed,  carried  their  craft  in  haste  across  the  portage,  and  em- 
barked again  to  repeat  the  performance.  The  other  canoes  did  like- 
wise in  their  turn ;  and  this  was  kept  up  the  greater  part  of  the  day, 
till  the  hostile  band,  looking  on  with  lively  interest  from  the  farther 
shore,  were  so  impressed  with  the  numbers  of  the  returning  Melicite 
warriors  that  they  discreetly  withdrew  to  seek  some  easier  adventure.  , 
At  the  little  milling  village  of  Perih,  49  miles  from  Woodstock,  the 
railroad  crosses  the  river  to  Amlover  {^\  miles),  a  village  of  500  inhab- 
itants, and  the  Tobicjue  branch  runs  from  here  along  the  river  28  miles 
to  Plaster  Rock.  This  is  the  headquarters  for  fishermen  who  are  going 
to  make  the  Tobique  trip.  There  is  a  homelike  country  hotel  here, 
whose  pi'oprietor  will  furnish  information  as  to  guides,  etc.  A  mile  and 
a  half  above  Andover,  on  the  other  shore,  comes  in  the  Tobique,  an 
important  tributary,  about  70  miles  in  length,  famous  for  its  trout  and 
salmon  fishing.  At  its  mouth  is  a  large  Indian  reservation,  containing 
a  prosperous  Melicite  village.  Some  of  these  Melicites  are  exceedingly 
intelligent  and  capable  as  guides  and  canoe-men,  and  may  be  hired  at 


y 


THE   UPPER   ST.    JOHN. 


155 


from  f  1  to  $U  a  day.  From  the  lieml  of  the  Tobi(iue  one  niav  port- 
age to  the  Nepisiguit  Lake  and  descend  the  Nopi.siL(iilt  to  ISatliiirst. 
The  Tobique  trip  will  be  treatod  in  detail  In  sue 'oeding  pai^i  h, 

Five  miles  above  Andover  Is  Aroostook  Jnncitin,  whence  a  braiu'h 
line  runfl  34  miles  up  the  fertile  Aroostook  Valley  to  tiie  Maine  towns 
of  Fort  Fairfield  (7  miles  from  the  .Iimctlon),  Caribou  (19  miles),  and 
Presque  Isle  (IJ4  miles).  These  towns  have  each  from  2,000  to  3,000 
inhabitants.  The  district  in  which  they  lie  is  enormously  productive, 
and  was  the  subject  of  the  boundary  dispute  between  New  Brunswick 
and  Maine  which  nearly  brought  on  a  war  between  England  and  the 
United  States.  Indeed,  in  the  year  1830,  there  was  a  little  outbreak 
of  hostilities  between  the  province  and  the  State  most  concerned.  This 
skirmish  is  known  to  history  as  the  Aroostook  war.  Troops  were  called 
out  on  both  sides,  and  a  band  of  Americans,  who  had  gone  into  the 
disputed  territory  to  arrest  alleged  trespassers,  were  captured  by  a 
party  of  New  Hrunswick  lumbermen  and  their  leaders  carried  captive, 
on  a  horse-sled,  to  Fredericton.  Maine  called  out  her  militia.  Sir  John 
Harvey,  the  Governor  of  New  Brunswick,  summoned  the  provincial 
troops  and  the  few  regulars  within  reach.  Nova  Scotia  voted  all  her 
men  and  all  her  revenues  to  the  help  of  the  sister  province,  and  Upper 
and  Lower  Canada  made  haste  to  send  aid.  There  was  excited  oratory 
at  Washington,  and  (seeing  that  New  Brunswick  was  but  a  colony) 
more  temperate  discussion  at  London,  and  finally  war  was  averted  by 
the  arrival  on  the  scene  of  an  English  commissioner,  who  with  easy 
generosity  yielded  to  the  American  commissioner,  Mr.  Webster,  all  New 
Brunswick's  claims ;  and  the  Aroostook  Valley,  largely  settled  by  New 
Brunswickers,  became  American  territory.  By  a  similar  piece  of  astute 
British  diplomacy  Canada  was  deprived  of  broad  and  rich  territories  on 
the  Pacific  coast  as  well.  In  the  Aroostook  country  there  is  fine  bear, 
deer,  moose,  caribou,  and  duck  shooting,  and  excellent  fishing  in  the 
Aroostook  and  Presque  Isle  Rivers  and  the  Squawpan  Lake.  There  is 
also  available  from  this  point  a  good  lound  trip  through  the  Eagle 
Lakes. 

From  Aroostook  Junction  the  main  line  follows  the  heights  over- 
looking the  river  St.  John  to  the  village  of  Grand  Falls,  seated  on  a 
high  plateau  72  miles  above  Woodstock.  The  village,  with  its  cool 
airs  and  the  really  sublime  scenery  of  the  Falls  and  Gorge,  has  become 
a  popular  summer  halting-place.  The  Grand  Falls  Hotel  is  a  good 
hostelry,  and  there  are  also  the  American  House  and  Glasier^s  Hotel, 


1 

■.,    ' 

, 

/' 

I. 

156 

THE    UPPER    ST.    JOHN. 

) 


¥',    I 


Through  the  village  runs  the  street  ambitiously  named  Broadway — 
which  is  indeed  so  broad  and  grassy  that  it  might  be  mistaken  for  a 
meadow.  Though  the  inhabitants  are  few — not  more  than  700  or  800 
— there  is  stir  in  the  village,  caused  by  the  busy  geese  and  pigs.  There 
are  several  churches ;  but  the  chief  architectural  distinction  of  the 
village  is  the  Grand  Falls  Hotel,  already  referred  to,  which,  with  its 
pretentious  front  of  tall,  white,  fluted  pillars,  suggests  at  first  sight 
that  a  Greek  temple  has  captured  a  whitewashed  modern  barn  and 
proudly  stuck  it  on  behind. 

The  Grand  Falls  of  the  St.  John. 

In  magnitude  the  Grand  Falls  of  the.  St.  John  can  not  be  compared 
to  Niagara;  but  in  impressiveness  of  surroundings  they  will  endure 
the  comparison.  A.  little  above  the  cataract  the  river  loiters  in  a  wide 
basin,  where  boats  from  up  stream  make  a  landing.  Then  the  shores 
suddenly  contract,  and  the  great  stream  plunges  into  the  gorge  by  a 
perpendicular  leap  'of  73  ft.  At  the  foot  of  the  fall,  in  its  center, 
rises  a  sharp  cone  of  black  rock  on  which  the  descending  waters  break 
and  pile  up  magnificently.  The  scene  varies  greatly  with  variations 
in  the  height  of  the  river.  It  is  peculiarly  awe-inspiring  when  the 
logs  are  running  through,  and  one  may  see  mighty  timbers  shattered 
into  fragments,  while  others  at  times  shoot  high  into  the  air  in  the  fury 
of  their  rebound.  From  the  foot  of  the  cataract  the  river  is  volleyed 
off,  as  it  were,  with  an  explosive  force  that  hurls  huge  foam-white 
masses  of  water  into  the  air.  The  bottom  of  the  terrific  trough  is 
sometimes  bared  for  a  moment  as  the  river  sways  madly  up  one  or  the 
other  of  its  imprisoning  walls.  The  gorge  is  about  a  mile  in  extent, 
and  walled  by  contorted  cliffs  from  100  to  250  ft,  in  height.  The 
rocks  are  dark  Upper  Silurian  slate,  whose  strata  have  been  twisted 
and  turned  on  end,  and  their  seams  filled  with  white  interlacing  veins 
of  quartz.  Throughout  the  extent  of  the  gorge  tliere  are  several  lesser 
falls,  which  are  swallowed  up  in  one  roaring  incline  when  the  river  is 
at  freshet.  One  descends  into  the  gorge  by  a  series  of  precipitous 
stairs.  On  the  wild  and  chaotic  floor  one  may  clamber  some  distance, 
and  visit  "  the  Cave,"  whose  jaws  remind  one  of  the  mouth  of  a  gigantic 
alligator;  one  may  get  a  near  view  of  the  curious  "Coffee-Mill,'' 
where  a  strange  eddy,  occupying  a  round  basin  beside  the  channel, 
slowly  grinds  the  logs  which  it  succeeds  in  capturing  as  they  dash 


THE  GRAND  FALLS  OF  THE  ST.  JOHN. 


157 


111," 


past.  "  The  Wells  "  are  a  strange  phenomenon,  smooth,  circular  pits 
several  feet  in  diameter,  bored  perpendicularly  deep  into  the  rock,  and 
leading  nowhither.  It  will  take  some  days  to  exhaust  the  attractions 
of  the  gorge.  At  its  lower  end,  reached  by  a  wonderfully  picturesque 
and  precipitous  road  from  the  village,  is  the  lovely,  quiet  expanse  of 
the  Lower  Basin,  where  logs  are  caught  and  made  up  into  rafts  for  the 
voyage  down  to  Fredericton.  At  low  water  one  may  be  poled  in  a 
lumberman's  "  bateau  "  for  a  short  distance  up  the  gorge  to  the  foot 
of  the  towering  cliff  called  Squawks  Leap,  over  whose  face  a  small 
stream  falls  silverly.  Over  this  steep  the  Indians  used  to  hurl  their 
victims. 

One  of  the  best  views  of  the  cataract  is  obtained  from  the  old 
mill,  which  occupies  a  rocky  ledge  thrust  out  into  the  very  face  of  the 
fall.  Here  one  is  in  the  midst  of  the  spray  and  the  rainbows.  Another 
good  view  may  be  had  from  the  Suspension  Bridge,  which  swings  from 
crag  to  crag  across  the  gorge  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  below  the 
falls.  The  spot  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  tragedy.  Lumbermen 
have  been  sucked  down,  and  never  a  trace  of  their  bodies  found  there- 
a-'ior.  The  first  bridge  built  across  the  gorge  fell  into  the  awful  depths 
with  several  teams  upon  it.  The  most  heroic  story,  however,  comes  to 
us  from  Melicite  tradition.  An  invading  army  of  Mohawks  entered 
the  country  by  the  head-waters  of  the  St.  John.  Their  object  was  to 
surprise  the  chief  village  of  the  Melicites  at  Aukpak,  far  below  Grand 
Falls.  Descending  the  upper  reaches  of  the  river,  they  took  a  little 
village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Madawaska,  whose  inhabitants  they  slew 
with  the  exception  of  two  women,  whom  they  saved  to  pilot  them 
down  the  river.  The  women  guided  them  safely  through  some  rapids. 
Toward  evening  they  told  their  captors  that  the  river  was  clear  of  falls 
and  rapids  for  another  day's  journey,  after  which  they  would  have  to 
make  a  portage.  The  Mohawks  lashed  together  their  fleet  of  canoes, 
placed  their  captive  guides  in  the  middle,  and  resigned  themselves  to 
the  current.  The  falls  are  buried  so  deep  in  the  gorge  that,  as  you 
approach  them  from  up  river  their  roaring  is  not  heard  until  one  is 
close  upon  them.  At  the  first  sound  of  it  some  of  the  watchers  in- 
quired the  cause,  but  were  assured  by  the  captives  that  it  was  only  a 
tributary  stream  falling  into  the  main  river.  As  the  fleet  swept  round 
the  point,  and  quickened  for  the  plunge,  and  the  full  blast  of  the 
cataract's  thunder  roared  suddenly  in  their  cars,  the  Indians  sprang  in 
desperate  horror  to  their  paddles.    But  it  was  too  late;  and  the 


m 


■'V  -t 


I! 


i 


.1  I 


I 


158 


ABOVE   THE   GRAND   FALLS. 


I> 


women  raised  their  shrill  war-cry  as  they  swept  with  their  captors  into 
the  gulf,  and  saved  their  tribe. 

Above  the  Grand  Falls. 

Just  above  Grand  Falls  the  railway  crosses  once  more  to  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  and  enters  the  Acadian  French  county  of  Mada- 
waska.  About  this  point  the  river  becomes  the  boundary-line  between 
the  United  States  and  Canada.  Fourteen  miles  from  Grand  Falls  is 
the  Acadian  village  of  St.  Leonards.  Four  miles  beyond  is  the  mouth  of 
Graud  River,  where  one  may  begin  a  fine  hunting,  fishing,  and  canoe- 
ing trip.  Guides  and  canoes  may  be  brought  from  the  Melicite  village, 
at  the  Tobique  mouth,  or  they  may  be  hired  from  one  or  another  of  the 
Acadian  settlements.  The  route  lies  by  poling  up  Grand  River  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Waagansis,  and  up  that  meager  stream  through  dense 
and  interminable  alders  to  its  source  in  the  water-shed  dividing  the 
streams  of  the  St.  John  from  those  of  the  Restiyonche.  A  portage  of 
6  or  6  miles  leads  to  the  Waagan,  a  wretched  sti'eara  down  which  one 
forces  his  way  till  he  comes  out  on  the  lovely  and  well-stocked  wa- 
ters of  the  "Five-fingered  River."  On  this  trip  the  present  writer 
heard  from  his  Indians  the  following  picturesque  legend,  which  may 
be  called  a  Melicite  "  Passing  of  Arthur  "  : 

THE  DEPARTING  OF  GLUSKAP. 

•  It  is  HO  long  ago  ;  and  men  well-nigh 
Forget  what  gladness  wan,  and  how  the  earth 
Gave  corn  in  plenty,  and  the  rivere  fish, 
And  the  woods  meat,  before  he  went  away. 
His  going  was  on  this  wise  : 

All  the  works 
And  words  and  ways  of  men  and  beasts  became 
Evil,  and  all  their  thoughts  continually 
Were  but  of  evil.    Then  he  made  a  feast. 
Upon  the  shore  that  is  beside  the  sea 
That  takes  the  setting  sun,  he  ordered  it, 
And  called  the  beasts  thereto.    Only  the  men 
He  called  not,  seeing  them  evil  utterly. 
He  fed  the  panther's  crafty  brood,  and  tilled 
The  lean  wolf's  hunger  ;  from  the  hollow  tree 
His  honey  stayed  the  beat's  terrific  jaws  ; 
And  the  brown  rabbit  couched  at  peace  within 
The  circling  shadow  of  the  eagle's  wings. 
And  when  the  feast  was  done  he  told  them  all 


ABOVE   THE   GRAND   FALLS. 


159 


That  now,  becaiibc  their  ways  were  evil  grown, 
*  On  that  same  day  he  must  depart  from  them,        /. 

And  they  should  look  upon  his  face  no  more. 
Then  all  the  beasts  were  very  sorrowful. 

It  was  near  sunset  and  the  wind  was  still. 
And  down  the  yellow  shore  a  thin  wave  washed 
Slowly  ;  and  Gluskap  launched  his  birch  canoe. 
And  spread  his  yellow  sail,  and  moved  from  shore, 
Though  no  wind  followed,  streaming  in  the  sail. 
Or  roughening  the;  clear  water  after  him. 
And  all  the  beasts  stood  by  the  shore,  and  watched. 
Then  to  the  west  appeared  a  Unig  rod  trail 
Over  the  wave  ;  and  Gluskap  sailed  and  sang 
Till  the  canoe  grew  little  like  a  bird. 
And  black,  and  vanished  in  the  shining  trail. 
And  when  the  beasts  could  see  his  form  no  more. 
They  still  could  hear  him,  singing  as  he  sailed. 
And  still  they  listened,  hanging  down  their  heads 
,In  thin  row,  where  the  thin  waves  washed  and  lied. 
But  when  the  sound  of  singlug  died,  and  when 
They  lifted  up  their  voices  in  their  grief, 
Lo  !  on  the  mouth  of  every  beast  a  strange 
New  tongue  !    Then  rose  they  all  and  fled  apart, 
Nor  met  again  in  council  from  that  day. 

Thirty-one  miles  above  Grand  Falls  we  cross  the  rushing  emerald 
waters  of  Oreen  River,  which  contrast  sharply  with  the  amber  current 
of  the  St.  John.  This  is  an  unrivaled  trout-stream  in  its  upper  waters, 
but  somewhat  difficult  of  access,  owing  to  the  shoals  and  rapids  that 
obstruct  its  course.  It  is  severe  poling  all  the  way  up,  and  all  the  lat- 
ter part  of  the  journey  is  through  complete  wilderness.  The  ti'out, 
however,  are  large  and  very  fierce,  well  worthy  of  the  effort  one  must 
make  to  get  them.  Typically  Acadian  are  the  farm-houses,  in  their 
fields  of  buckwheat  and  flax,  along  the  lower  course  of  Green  River. 
Governor  Gordon  has  thus  described  the  home  of  the  Madawaska 
Acadian : 

The  whole  aspect  of  the  farm  was  that  of  a  metairic  in  Normandy ; 
the  outer  doors  of  the  house  gaudily  painted,  the  i)ancls  of  a  ditferent 
color  from  the  frame ;  the  large,  open,  uncarpeted  room,  with  its  bare, 
shining  floor;  the  las.ses  at  the  spinninjr-wheol ;  the  French  costume 
and  appearance  of  Madame  Violet  and  her  sons  and  daughters,  all  car- 
ried me  back  to  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic. 

The  town  of  St.  Basil,  34  miles  from  Grand  Falls,  has  nearly  2,000 
inhabitants,  an  immense  Roman  Catholic  church,  and  the  Convent  and 


'■(1% 

if 


M'!| 


I 


160 


ABOVE   THE   GRAND   FALL8. 


School  of  the  Sacred  Heart.  Six  miles  farther  we  cross  the  mouth  of 
the  Madawaska  River,  and  enter  the  little  town  of  Edmundston,  some- 
times called  Little  Falls,  from  the  low  cataract  by  which  the  Mada- 
waska, descending  through  a  narrow  ravine,  plunges  to  meet  the  St. 
John.  The  chief  hotels  of  Edmundston  arc  The  Adams  and  the  Hotel 
Babin.  The  Temiscouata  R.  R.  runs  81  miles,  along  the  Madawaska 
River,  Lake  Temiscouata,  and  over  the  divide  to  Riviere  du  Loup.  The 
best  view  of  Edmundston  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  old  block- 
house. At  this  point  the  best  of  fishing  waters  lie  all  about  us.  Within 
easy  reach  are  the  St.  Francis,  with  its  lakes  Welastookawagamis, 
Pekaweekagomic,  Pohenegamook,  well  stocked  and  little  fished. 
Across  the  river  is  the  round  trip  by  the  Eiigle  Lakes  and  Fish  River 
to  the  American  village  of  Fort  Kent.  Into  the  Temiscouata  Lake 
flows  the  Cabineau,  a  noVtle  trout-stream ;  and  the  I'uladi,  the  outlet  of 
the  Squattook  and  Tuladi  chain  of  lakes. 


i  1 


Eoutes  for  the  Sportsman. 

One  of  the  hest  round  trips  in  New  Brunswick,  or,  I  should  say,  in 
the  Maritime  Provinces,  is  what  is  known  as  the  "  Squattook  trip  " ; 
much  of  which,  indeed,  lies  in  the  province  of  Quebec.  The  route  is 
as  follows :  Take  the  canoes  (either  poling  them  up  stream  or  putting 
them  on  a  flat  car)  up  the  Madawaska,  15  miles,  to  a  place  called  Grif- 
fin's. Then  portage  5  miles  to  the  ugly  little  pool  called  Mud  Lake, 
with  its  desolate  and  fire-ravaged  shores.  From  Mud  Lake  descend 
Beardsley  Brook  (pronounced  Bazzily),  catching  a  few  trout  by  the  way, 
and  squeezing  through  many  alder  thickets,  till  the  Squattook  River 
is  reached.  Run  with  thrilling  speed  down  the  rapids  of  this  river,  till 
you  come  to  Big  Squattook  Lake,  where  one  should  stop  and  fish  at  the 
outlet.  From  this  down  there  is  fishing  everywhere.  Passing  through 
Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Squattook  Lakes — Second  Lake  known  as 
"  Sugar-Loaf  Lake,"  from  the  fine  peak  that  overshadows  it — the  Mor- 
ton branch  is  reached,  which  should  be  ascended  for  the  sake  of  the 
wonderful  abundance  and  good  size  of  its  trout.  The  Squattook  River 
enters  the  Tuladi  Lakes,  two  almost  contiguous  sheets  of  wilderness 
water,  wherein  the  great  lake-trout,  called  "  Tuladi,"  are  numerous, 
and  to  be  taken  by  trolling.  Out  of  the  lower  Tuladi  Lake  flows  the 
Tuladi  River,  whereon  are  the  Tuladi  Falls,  round  which,  except  at  cer- 
tain stages  of  the  water,  one  must  make  a  portage.    The  falls  are  just 


mouth  of 
'on,  some- 
he  Mada- 
it  the  St. 
the  Hotel 
adawaska 
oup.  The 
)ld  block- 
I.  Within 
iwagamis, 
le  fished, 
^ish  River 
lata  Lake 
!  outlet  of 


lid  say,  in 

jk  trip"; 

route  is 

ir  putting 

led  Grif. 

ud  Lake, 

descend 

the  way, 

yk  River 

iver,  till 

sh  at  the 

through 

lown  as 

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of  the 

k  River 

derness 

merous, 

ws  the 

at  cer- 

re  just 


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ym 


M?,f»lii)iJiJ'',y  ;■.■.:■, 


j:K'||,;'    •  '-■:, 


■:ii:„ 


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So 

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ROUTES   FOR  THE   SPORTSMAN. 


161 


below  the  lake.  Thence  there  is  a  clear  run,  with  swift  but  not  dan- 
gerous water,  to  Lake  Temiscouata,  which  must  be  crossed  to  reach  the 
village  of  Detour  du  Lac.  Here  one  may  put  up  at  Clouthier^s  Hotel, 
if  tired  of  camping.  Temiscouata  Lake  is  30  miles  long,  IJ  miles  in 
breadth,  and  remarkable  for  its  depth.  There  is  good  fishing  in  its 
waters  at  times,  especially  for  the  great  gray  trout  called  "  togue " ; 
but  it  is  not  as  good  a  fishing  water  as  the  streams  and  smaller  lakes 
surrounding  it. 

THE  BIRCH-BARK  CANOE. 

The  birch  canoe  of  the  Melicite  is  filled  with  mystery  for  the  un- 
initiated, who  may  be  known  beyond  a  shadow  of  doubt  by  the  way 
they  talk.  If  a  man  begins  dilating  on  the  perils  of  the  bark  canoe, 
you  may  be  assured  at  once  that  he  is  cither  totally  ignorant  of  his 
subject,  or  is  making  a  bid  for  your  admiration  at  the  cost  of  truth 
itself. 

I  can  not  make  you  love  the  bark  as  I  do — at  least  not  through 
these  pages — but  if  you  seek  out  Jim  Paul  at  Fredericton  he'll  give 
you  a  taste  of  the  dreamy  delight  for  a  very  small  sum.  3Iany  men  of 
Fredericton  who  do  not  live  in  a  hut  and  wear  moccasins  summer  and 
winter  can  not  be  beaten,  either  in  skill  or  endurance,  by  any  Indian  on 
the  river.  The  probabilities  are  that  you  will  be  charmed  with  your 
first  experience,  and  if  Jim  is  in  the  stern  of  the  canoe  you'll  ask  him 
if  it's  difficult  to  paddle — to  which  he'll  say,  "Not  much,"  with  a  grin — 
and  what  you'd  have  to  pay  for  a  nice  canoe  ?  To  this  latter  question 
he  may  answer,  anywhere  from  $20  to  $40.  It  all  depends  on  the  im- 
pression he  gets  of  your  wealth  and  gullibility.  If  he  says  $20,  you  had 
better  offer  him  $l8  and  take  it.  He'll  think  more  of  you  if  you  don't 
give  him  quite  as  much  as  he  asks,  and  you  may  make  your  mind  easy 
with  regard  to  the  other  $2,  because  he  didn't  expect  $20  anyway. 

If  you  have  time,  it  will  interest  vou  to  watch  your  canoe  being 
built.  Jim  Paul  builds  as  good  canoes  as  any  one,  and  he  is  a  good 
man  to  deal  with.  He  lives  opposite  Fredericton,  in  the  Indian  village 
at  St.  Mary's,  already  mentioned,  and  if  you  walk  over  the  bridge  and 
follow  the  footpath  to  your  right,  along  the  bank,  you'll  come  to  Jim's 
hut  before  you've  gone  50  yards.  If  he  has  begun  operations  on  your 
canoe,  he'll  be  sitting  on  the  ground  by  his  front  door  driving  wooden 
pins  into  the  ground.  He  makes  a  little  fence  of  these,  about  8  in. 
high  and  inclosing  a  space  the  size  and  shape  of  your  canoe.  After  a, 
11 


162 


ROUTES   FOR   THE    SPORTSMAN. 


few  last  pats  on  the  ground  inside  the  inclosure,  to  make  sure  it  is 
level  and  free  from  stones  and  lumps,  he  brings  out  the  hark  and  lines 
the  inclosure  with  it,  putting  it  inside  out.  The  bark  of  a  canoe  runs 
with  its  grain  from  bow  to  stern,  and,  if  his  piece  is  long  enough  to 
cover  the  whole  inclosure,  so  much  the  better  as  far  as  looks  are  con- 
cerned.    If  not,  there  will  be  a  scam  across  near  the  middle. 

When  the  bark  is  put  into  the  little  inclosure  it  is  pressed  smoothly 
and  flatly  down  to  the  ground  and  up  against  the  wooden  pins  and 
folded  over  their  tops  ;  and  bricks  or  other  convenient  weights  are  put 
in  upon  it  to  keep  it  in  place. 

Next,  long,  thin  strips  of  cedar,  about  4  in.  wide  and  i  in.  thick, 
are  laid  over  the  bark,  and  are  fitted  so  as  to  cover  all  the  inside  of 
the  canoe,  leaving  only  very  narrow  cracks  here  and  there.  Then  the 
gunwales  are  put  on — or  at  least  the  inner  strips  are  put  in  place  and 
bound  tightly  with  cane  (he'll  use  hackmatack-roots  if  you  must  have 
them).  This  will  give  the  b\iilder  a  puichase  for  the  ribs,  which  are 
next  in  order.  They  may  be  of  any  light,  strong  wood — cedar  or 
spruce,  usually.  ;  They  are  broader  at  their  middles  than  at  their  ends, 
so  that  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  is  well  floored  over  while  the  silvery 
bark  of  the  birch  is  gleaming  through  at  the  sides.  The  midrib  is  the 
greatest  arc,  and  from  the  midrib  to  each  end  they  gradually  diminish 
in  size  until  at  last  they  are  bent  almost  double.  For  a  short  dis- 
tance— a  foot  and  a  half — in  bow  and  stern  thei-e  are  no  ribs  at  all,  and 
the  bark  of  each  side  is  sewed  with  roots  or  cane  so  as  to  make  a  sharp, 
neat  prow.  The  cavity  is  generally  stuffed  with  shavings,  and  a  shin- 
gle is  cut  to  fit  in  and  close  it  immediately  ahead  or  behind  the  last  rib. 

So  far  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  is  flat  and  the  sides  stand  on  it  at 
right  angles ;  but  when  the  ends  of  the  midrib  are  pressed  under  the 
gunwales  on  each  side  and  it  is  pushed  into  its  proper  position  and  a 
few  of  its  fellows  are  ranged  in  place  on  each  side,  we  see  that  the 
bark  has  left  the  ground,  except  at  the  center,  and  the  sides  are  as- 
suming the  curve  of  the  finished  canoe.  Everything  is  rather  loose 
till  the  bars  are  put  in.  There  are  five  bars  in  an  ordinary-sized  ca- 
noe— a  long  one  in  the  middle  and  shorter  ones  on  each  side.  They 
are  of  maple,  and  are  fitted  into  the  gunwales  at  each  end  and  lashed 
in  snugly,  drawing  the  canoe  to  its  proper  shape.  Then  the  top  strips 
of  the  gunwales  are  put  on,  and  the  seams  on  bow  and  stern  and  mid- 
ships— if  there  be  a  seam  there — are  covered  with  cotton  and  smeared 
thoroughly  with  a  mixture  of  resin  and  grease,  and  the  canoe  is  rejidy 


ROUTES   FOR   TFIE    BPORT8MAN. 


163 


for  trial.  It  will  probably  leak,  of  course,  and  the  leaks  must  be  found 
and  smeared  with  the  resinous  mixture.  Tlien  your  canoe  is  done,  and 
you  must  learn  to  manage  it ! 

If  you  get  in  and  kneel  down  in  front  of  the  stern-bar  and  get  Jim 
to  sit  in  front  and  watch  you,  you  will,  after  a  few  attempts,  be  able  to 
keep  her  from  wabbling  in  her  course — that  is,  from  zigzagging — but 
you  will  find  that  after  every  two  or  three  strokes  of  the  paddle  you 
stop  and  s/ecr,  or  else  you  are  inclined  to  paddle  first  on  one  side  and 
then  on  the  other,  lioth  these  methods  are  in  nowise  allowable.  No 
canoeman  stojjs  to  steer !  No  canocnian  changes  sides — except  to  rest. 
If  you  are  paddling  on  the  right  side,  let  your  right  hand  grip  the  pad- 
dle very  near  the  top  of  the  blade — the  lower  down,  the  more  power — 
and  the  left  a  couple  of  inches  below  the  top.  Many  good  canoeraen 
clasp  their  fingers  over  the  top  of  the  jjaddle,  but  it  is  not  so  good  form 
nor  as  good  for  long  work  as  is  the  true  Indian  mode  of  holding — viz., 
with  the  back  of  the  hand  toward  the  face  and  the  thumb  and  fingers 
reaching  around  to  the  front.  Dip  the  whole  depth  of  the  blade,  so 
that  your  right  hand  goes  under  water,  and  pull  strongly  and  slowly. 
At  the  end  of  your  stroke,  as  the  blade  is  rising  toward  the  surface, 
turn  the  blade  on  to  its  edge  by  twisting  the  right  wrist  toward  the  side 
of  the  canoe.  No  time  is  spent  in  this  twisting  of  the  blade,  but  on  it 
depends  the  mastery  of  the  canoe  and  the  decision  of  your  course. 
Practice  alone  can  show  you  how  to  make  it  etfective.  By  the  steadi- 
ness of  his  blade  in  the  water  and  by  judgment  as  to  the  proper  time 
for  a  new  stroke,  the  experienced  canoeman  can  defy  a  chopping  white- 
crested  sea  that  would  make  short  work  of  a  stout  row-boat.  Be  sure 
and  don't  sit  upon  the  bar  of  your  canoe  unless  you  are  alone  or  have 
no  room  to  kneel.  Any  one  on  the  St.  John  River  will  know  you  are  a 
novice  if  you  are  seen  perched  upon  the  bar.  Kneel,  as  I  said  before, 
and  kneel  rather  low.  For  ordinary  light  work  you  will  find  it  con- 
venient to  rest  against  the  bar  behind  you,  but  when  you  go  making 
your  35  miles  a  day  on  dead  water  you'll  find  that  you  work  best  •'  on 
your  hunkers,"  as  the  Indians  say — that  is,  sitting  on  your  heels. 

Paddling  a  canoe  is  one  thing ;  propelling  it  by  a  pole,  even  against 
a  moderate  current,  is  quite  another.  But  learn  to  pole  you  must,  if 
you  would  explore  New  Brunswick  waters  and  be  independent  of  your 
Indian.  The  first  essential  is  the  pole.  It  will  be  of  spruce,  8  or  9  ft. 
long,  and  about  the  size,  in  circumference,  of  the  circle  made  by  your 
thumb  and  second  finger.     It  will  be  dry  and  light  and  smoothly  fin- 


n 


I 


1 


164 


ROUTES   FOR   TOE   RPORTSMAN. 


^ 


ished,  and,  if  It  is  free  from  knots  and  flaws  as  it  should  bo,  it  will  be 
wonderfully  pliable  and  touj^h. 

You  had  better  get  an  expcriencod  poler  to  f^ive  you  a  few  instruc- 
tions before  you  try  your  hand,  because,  of  course,  you  must  stand  up 
to  pole  a  canoe,  and  you  will  {:;et  no  support  from  the  polo,  and  the 
length  of  time  you  remain  in  the  canoe  will  (lei)end  entirely  on  your 
luck  if  you  go  at  it  blindly. 

Jim  Paul  poles  in  good  form.  Let  him  take  you  up  the  river  away 
while  you  watch  him  closely. 

You  will  see  that  he  stands  with  his  foot  braced  apart  a  little  and 
faces  the  near  shore.  Suppose  he  is  poling  on  the  rigiit  side,  he  grasps 
the  pole  near  the  middle  with  his  right  hand  and  puts  it  to  the  bottom 
of  the  river  just  behind  him.  using  his  left  hand  merely  to  direct  the 
pole  to  its  hold  in  the  hard  mud.  Then  he  surges  steadily  and  strongly 
back  with  his  right  arm,  and,  as  the  canoe  glides  ahead,  the  left  arm 
gets  a  chance  to  shove  too  and  makes  the  most  of  its  ojjportunity.  The 
right  hand,  so  long  as  he  poles  on  this  side,  will  never  leave  the  pole 
except  in  makinig  a  long  push,  in  which  ease  the  poler  will  often  run 
the  length  of  the  pole  hand  over  hand.  He  will  always  lilt  from  the 
stroke  with  bis  right  hand  and  swing  the  dripping  end  out  ahead  of 
him  in  a  shining  half  circle,  seize  it  below  with  his  left  to  plant  it  for 
a  new  shove,  and  go  on  as  before. 

By  setting  the  pole  on  the  bottom,  at  some  distance  out  from  the 
side  of  the  canoe,  and,  during  the  stroke,  drawing  the  stern  close  to  the 
pole,  the  bow  will  be  swung  in  toward  shore,  gradi'.ally  or  abruptly,  as 
the  poler  may  desire.  By  setting  the  pole  well  tanlcr  the  canoe,  and 
pushing  the  stern  off  from  it,  a  turn  in  the  opposite  direction  is  niade. 

An  experienced  canoeman  keeps  a  perfectly  straight  course  and 
makes  his  turns  and  curves  with  precision  and  without  wabbling  or 
wavering,  just  as  a  practiced  bicyclist  does  with  his  wheel. 

In  very  deep  water,  sometimes,  the  pole  must  be  used,  for  some  of 
the  strongest  rapids  are  deep.  But  you  need  not  be  taken  unawares 
by  deep,  strong  water.  You  will  know  whether  or  not  you  are  going 
to  encounter  any,  and  will  start  on  j'our  trip  armed  with  a  pole  of  ex- 
ceptional length. 

This  long  pole  will  be  found  of  great  service,  too,  in  a  short,  shal- 
low rapid  of  more  than  usual  strength,  when  you  can  not  attbrd  to  take 
a  full,  new  stroke.  You  will  then  find  it  advisable  to  "  swish  "  the 
lower  end  quickly  into  the  air  and  "  snub  "  down  hard  with  the  other, 


ROUTES   FOR  THE   SPORTSMAN. 


166 


keeping  your  pole  ever  ready  to  gain  a  step,  as  it  were,  by  turning  a 
handspring.  Witii  a  reliable  man  in  the  bow  and  stern,  a  canoe  can  be 
forced  up  through  a  foaming,  (lashing  run  that  looks  utterly  im- 
passable. 

The  pole  will  be  indispensable  also  in  shooting  rapids — running  down 
over  them.  On  the  New  Brunswick  waters,  at  many  seasons  of  the  year, 
there  is  very  little  water  in  the  principal  fishing  streams,  and  the  rocks 
are  so  thick  in  the  runs  that  a  paddle  is  useless.  Then  the  bowman 
must  keep  his  wits  about  him,  and  must  kneel  high  with  a  short,  stout 
polo  held  ready  to  "snub"  for  all  he's  worth,  so  that  the  bows  may 
not  be  stove  in  on  some  bare  rock  that  the  sternman  has  failed 
to  avoid,  owing  to  his  natural  inability  to  keep  his  canoe  headed 
in  every  conceivable  direction  at  once,  without  getting  in  the  least 
"  rattled." 

If  you  are  going  to  shoot  rapids— full-grown  ones — you  must  be  as 
cool  as  if  your  game  were  elephants.  If  you  are  not,  you  will  break 
your  bark's  back  over  a  ledge  or  rip  her  up  with  a  pointed  rock  ;  and 
will  lose  a  lot  of  your  load,  and  have  to  tramp  through  the  woods  to 
the  nearest  village. 

>Iany  a  time  I  have  looked  from  my  position  by  the  stern-bar  and 
seen  a  raging  incline  hissing  and  snarling  ahead  of  me,  with  black 
rocks  bobbing  up  everywhere.  Never  a  word  from  the  fellow  in  front 
of  me.  He  leans  peering  over  the  bow,  and  keeps  his  pole  flashing  like 
a  fencer's  foil  frou)  side  to  side.  lie's  working  like  a  horse.  I  pick 
out  the  main  course  and  use  all  the  common  sense  and  experience  I 
can  lay  claim  to  in  choosing  the  doepest  water  and  keeping  clear  of  the 
worst  rocks.  He  looks  out  for  the  smaller  but  no  less  dangerous  ones. 
We  come  to  a  sharp  turn,  and  I  head  her  straight  for  a  giant  bowlder 
that  stoops"  in  front  of  us,  surging  his  way  against  the  I'oaring  stream 
with  frothy,  jagged  shoulders.  The  canoe  shivers  and  leaps  at  him, 
and  I  give  a  twist  to  right,  and  a  side  current  helps  me  just  in  time, 
and  we  turn  half  round  and  dart  for  another.  The  bowman  catches 
her  in  her  jump  and  holds  hard  while  I  slip  the  stern  to  the  left,  and 
we  spring  through  a  line  of  rolling  waves  and  shoot  into  the  rest  and 
calm  of  a  deep,  still  pool,  and  "  lie  easy ''  a  minute  to  look  back  and 
live  those  last  few  seconds  over  again.  Our  pipes  are  smoked  to  the 
very  heel,  and  we  start  again,  with  every  sinew  and  nerve  strung  tight, 
ready  for  what  may  come. 

That  is  the  kind  of  strengthening  medicine  you  will  get  in  the  wilds 


U'v 


m 


i,  t 


166 


ROUTER   FOR  THE   SPORTSMAN. 


with  a  birch-bark  canoo! — strong  water  that  will  intoxicate  you  fast 
enough  and  leave  no  headaeho  ! 

If  you  strike  the  stream  when  the  water  is  high — say,  after  the 
June  freshet — you'll  find  all  the  rapids  full  and  the  water  runninj;  deep 
and  heavy  and  covering  all  the  smaller  rocks,  so  that  there  is  not  half 
the  risk  of  being  "  stove  in."  Then  you  can  let  your  bowman  sit  at 
his  ease,  and  you  can  settle  yourself  with  your  broadest-bladed  paddle 
and  keep  things  straight,  and  listen  to  the  shouting  of  the  stream.  No 
work  for  you  now !  Nothing  but  highly-spiced  liot  puddings  and  the 
brightest  of  the  bright  champagnes !  And  all  digestible  as  bread  and 
milk !     And  no  stint ! 

Try  it  for  yourself,  and  see  whether  or  not  this  is  exaggerated. 

Up  the  Tobique  by  Canoe* 

A  TYPICAL  NEW  BRUNSWICK  TRIP. 

Our  party  consisted  of  the  "  Kcclesiastlc,"  the  "  Artist,"  and  my- 
self. The  Ecclesiastic  is  a  veteran  devotee  of  birch  and  paddle.  The 
Artist  was  a  novice,  but,  being  of  frame  and  spirit  fashioned  to  with- 
stand the  thousand  unnatural  shocks  which  the  canoeist  is  heir  to,  he 
soon  proved  himself  one  of  the  initiated.  Without  much  difficulty, 
and  for  a  consideration  of  ^I  a  day,  we  provided  us  each  with  an  In- 
dian, and  each  Indian  provided  a  birch  canoe,  warranted  unstable  but 
water-proof. 

Our  supplies  we  laid  in  at  the  Andover  grocery.  As  an  essential, 
they  included  an  open  tin  baking-oven — an  apparatus  with  which  the 
Melicite  bakes  excellent  bread  at  the  camp-fire. 

The  start  was  decreed  for  JViday  morning,  but  rain  a.nl  the  non- 
appearance of  our  Melicitcs  postponed  it  till  the  afternoon.  A  word  in 
regard  to  these  Melicites,  whom  let  me  commend  to  explorers  of  the 
Tobique.  They  were  Steve  Solace,  chief  guide,  and  his  two  nephews, 
Tom  and  Frank. 

About  1.30,  in  a  spell  of  clear  sky,  we  paddled  off  from  Andover 
and  fancied  ourselves  under  way ;  but  the  Indians  had  a  stop  to  make 
at  their  village.  Here  was  a  delay  of  nearly  two  hours,  which  loft  us 
little  of  the  afternoon  for  journeying.  Not  far  ahead  were  "  The  Nar- 
rows," the  toughest  piece  of  navigation  which  the  whole  length  of  the 
Tobique  could  bring  to  bear  against  us,  with  the  possible  exception  of 
Red  Rapids.     We  decided  to  employ  the  remnant  of  our  daylight  in 


UP  thj:  tobiql'k  by  canoe. 


167 


demolishing  the  obrttiiolo,  tliat  we  miglit  Imve  clear  poling  to  look  for- 
ward to  on  tlu'  morrow. 

A  mile  of  easy  water,  nnd  "Tlic  Narrows"  wore  reached.  Here 
the  Tobiqiie  has  cliiselu<i  itself  a  canon  through  a  ranj^e  of  calciferous 
slate  which  had  sought  to  bar  its  ^»^  ay  to  the  St.  John.  The  little  diffi- 
culty, I  understand,  was  settled  some  ajies  back,  but  the  river  still 
chafes  furiously  at  remcnibraiice  of  the  opposition  ;  the  gloomy  crags 
still  threaten,  as  if  they  brooded  over  their  defeat.  Redly  into  the 
gate  of  the  gorge  streamed  the  light  of  the  low,  unclouded  sun,  filling 
the  water  with  fervent  greens  and  olives  and  flushing  the  naked  faces 
of  the  cliffs. 

Hut  the  gorge  is  tortuoiis  and  the  sunshine  was  speedily  shut  out, 
while  the  rocks  drew  closer  and  closer  above,  as  if  they  would  strike 
their  somber  foreheads  together.  The  toppling  black  walls  were 
scrawled  over  with  tracings  of  white  where  the  thin  seams  of  limestone 
displayed  themselves.  Here  and  there  we  marked  the  cordial  green  of 
a  cedar-tiee,  swung  from  some  scant  root-hold  on  the  steep.  Once  we 
came  to  a  spot  where  the  canon  widened,  giving  room  for  an  eddy 
which  served  us  for  a  breathing-place,  and  for  a  (pieer  detached  rock- 
pinnacle  which  must  figure  as  an  island  at  high  water.  At  this  season 
the  stretnn  was  low,  or  a  passage  of  the  Narrows  would  have  been  one 
of  the  wildest  of  imiiossibilities.  Instead  of  volleying  down  the  gorge 
in  an  endless  succession  of  great,  white,  roaring  surges,  as  is  its  wont  in 
time  of  freshet,  the  current  now  darted  on  like  a  flight  of  green  arrows, 
splintering  into  a  hiss  of  foam  on  every  point  and  ledge,  and  occasion- 
ally dipping  under  a  group  of  thin-crested,  stationary  "  ripples." 
Though  this  devious  chasm  is  not  a  mile  in  extent,  we  occupied  two 
hours  and  more  in  its  passage.  For  all  that,  we  had  little  time  to  de- 
light in  our  grim  surroundings.  We  had  to  snatch  our  impressions. 
With  straiiung  shoulders  and  Hashing  paddles,  we  aided  to  our  utmost 
the  poles  of  our  sorely-perspiring  guides.  Sometimes  we  would  grasp 
a  jutting  rock,  and  hold  on  like  leeches  while  the  panting  Melicites 
breathed.  We  thrust  and  paddled  desperately,  now  on  this  side  now 
on  that,  as  a  spiteful  cross-current  would  tug  fiercely  at  our  bow  to 
drag  us  into  some  small  but  malignant  Charybdis.  All  the  while  our 
ears  rang  with  the  rushing  clamor  of  the  rapids,  doubled  and  trebled 
and  hurled  back  upon  us  by  the  chasm's  resonaiit  wails.  At  last  the 
walls  fell  swiftly  apart  before  us,  revealing  a  far,  bright  stretch  of 
placid  waters,  bedded  iu  low,  green  shores,  with  a  sundown  sky  of 


i'9  -i 


h 


:r\ 


i  I 


168 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


clear  sea-green  and  amber  widening  out  peacefully  above  it.  Beheld 
from  this  cavern  of  tumult  and  gloom,  the  vision  came  to  our  eyes  like 
the  veritable  embodiment  of  a  dream. 

Upon  a  pldt  of  gravelly  sward  we  pitched  our  tents.  As  the  rains 
had  drenched  everything,  we  had  trouble  with  our  fire  till  a  dry  stump 
was  found.  After  supper,  while  the  red  glare  of  the  fire  wrought 
strange  confusion  with  the  moonbeams  among  the  thickets  about  us, 
and  on  the  misty  level  of  the  water  that  neighbored  our  threshold,  we 
gathered  huge  armfuls  of  a  giant  fern  which  grew  near  by,  and  dried 
them  for  our  couches  and  pillows.  The  Indians,  who  had  their  "lean- 
to  "  over  against  the  tent-door,  preferred  their  wonted  pile  of  hemlock- 
branches.  As  we  were  running  over  with  noble  resolutions  concerning 
an  early  start,  before  the  morrow's  sun  should  have  got  his  eyes  well 
opened,  we  sat  not  long  that  night  about  our  fire.  At  a  modest  hour 
we  were  snug  in  our  ferns  and  blankets. 

Fortunately  for  the  fate  of  our  resolutions,  the  morrow,  to  all  ap- 
pearance, had  no  sun.  It  was  rain,  rain,  rain ;  now  mist,  now  drizzle, 
now  "  pitchforks."  .  When  it  happened  to  be  for  a  little  in  the  milder 
form  of  mist,  about  eleven  in  the  morning,  we  struck  tent  and  got 
under-way.  At  once  came  on  the  rabid  form  of  "  pitchforks."  With 
water-proofs  buttoned  up  to  the  neck,  the  skirts  thereof  spread  out  to 
shed  the  downfall,  we  endured  in  silence  till  we  had  scored  a  moist 
three  miles.  Then,  coming  to  a  farm-house  set  temptingly  close  to  the 
stream,  we  decided  to  break  for  cover.  The  Ecclesiastic  was  sitting  in 
a  pool  which  chilled,  he  said,  his  most  deeply-seated  enthusiasms ;  and 
we  agreed  that  a  kitcl:on-fire,  with  possibilities  of  buttermilk  an?  sich, 
had  just  now  peculiar  charms  for  a  canoeist's  imagination.  Canoes 
and  dunnage  safe  beneath  tarpaulins,  we  presented  ourselves  all  drip- 
ping at  the  kitchen-door,  while  the  Indians  took  to  the  barn. 

Soon  the  weather  cleared,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  made  good  prog- 
ress. Between  the  showers  the  Artist  would  be  busy  with  his  sketch- 
book, whipping  it  under  his  mackintosh  at  the  first  sign  of  a  sprinkle. 
As  for  the  Ecclesiastic,  he  is  an  ardent  disciple  of  the  gentle  Isaac,  and 
had  got  his  rod  spliced  as  soon  as  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Tobique. 
We  two  now  kept  casting  from  side  to  side  as  the  canoe  climbed  on- 
ward, though  on  this  lower  course  of  the  stream  we  had  no  expectations 
to  be  disappointed.  The  large  trout  were  lying  higher  up,  or  in  the 
mouths  of  the  brooks,  and  one  ueed  not  look  for  a  salmon  at  his  fly 
before  he  reaches  the  Oxbow.    Yet  certain  of  the  small  fry  were  on 


rog- 
tch- 
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ind 
lue. 
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Ithe 

fly 

Ion 


Caribou  Miyration. 


m 


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169 


hand,  and  we  took  enough  to  supply  our  pan  liberally.  The  Ecclesiastic 
also,  favored  among  anglers,  struck  and  skillfully  landed  a  small  grilse. 
The  fertile  soil  along  the  lower  Tobique  is  being  rapidly  taken  up  by 
settlers,  so  during  all  this  day's  poling  we  were  rarely  out  of  sight  of 
some  sign  of  civilization.  Now  it  was  a  latticed  red  and  white  bridge, 
leaping  out  of  a  mass  of  green  on  either  lofty  bank,  and  putting  an 
airy  limit  to  some  enchanted  vista  before  us.  Xow  it  was  a  white 
village  perched  on  a  hill,  with  a  wall  of  dark  fir-trees  behind,  and  the 
yellow  refuse  of  its  now  idle  saw-mill  covering  the  low  level  in  its  front. 
Toward  sunset  the  showers  ceased  finally,  and  in  the  exquisite  air  we 
grew  all  too  indolent  to  wield  or  rod  or  pencil.  We  dreamed  along 
between  the  changing  shores,  and  were  disposed  to  grumble  when  the 
Indians  halted  for  supper.  To  the  halt,  however,  we  grew  reconciled, 
when  the  savor  of  our  browning  trout  stole  out  upon  the  hay-sweet 
breezes.  After  supper  we  pushed  on  through  gathering  dusk,  while 
the  twang  and  cry  of  night-hawks  fiUed  the  upper  skies  with  magic, 
and  we  caught  a  far-ofF  piping  of  summer  frogs,  with  the  lowing  of 
cattle  from  a  farmstead  back  of  the  hills.  Reaching  a  wooded  island 
in  mid-stream  we  saw  that  it  was  good,  and  pitched  our  tents. 

The  camp  was  on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  under  a  pair  of  stately 
black  ash.  What  a  mighty  fire  we  built  that  night  to  glare  across  the 
water !  It  served  at  the  same  time,  truth  compels  me  to  add,  the  less 
romantic  purpose  of  drying  our  socks,  etc.  We  were  so  wet  that  one 
cheep-la7i-guah-gan  *  could  not  satisfy  our  needs.  The  camp  was  full 
of  cheep-lah-quah-gans.  It  was  also  full  of  sand-flies — the  insidious 
and  all-pervasive  "  bite-um-no-see-um  " — and  with  a  fine  Tobique  variety 
of  the  mosquito.  These  troubled  the  Artist  sorely,  while  the  rest  of  us, 
knowing  them  of  old,  hid  beneath  a  panoply  of  tar-ointment.  This 
compound,  familiarly  known  as  "  slitheroo,"  is  tar  and  grease  boiled 
down,  with  some  unnecessary  chemical  superadded.  The  Artist  stood 
in  awe  of  it.  He  fled  to  it  at  last,  however,  after  bitterly  inveighing 
against  the  Tobique  for  having  brought  him  "  to  this  pitch."  Ashe 
stood  by  the  cheep-lah-guahgan,  alternately  turning  his  socks  and 
daubing  on  the  succulent  ointment,  he  became,  on  a  sudden,  inspired. 
He  began : 


*  This  is  the  Melicite  name  for  the  green  sapling  driven  into  the 
ground  to  stand  over  the  camp-fire,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  pot 
and  kettle.    Clothes,  etc.,  are  hung  upon  it  to  dry. — Ed. 


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} 


"  Tobique,  or  not  Tobiqiie,  that  is  the  question. 
Whether  'tis  nobler  in  the  flesh  to  suffer 
The  stings  and  arrows  of  outrageous  midges, 
Or  to  take  arms  against  a  siege  of  sand-flies, 
And  by  tar-ointment  end  them  !  " 


At  this  stage  he  was  rudely  interrupted. 

By  a  lamentable  oversight  our  tent  was  pitched  with  the  door  there- 
of toward  the  east.  Therefore  we  awoke  too  early,  and  lay  long  watch- 
ing the  sunrise  over  the  low,  thick-wooded  hills.  Then  the  coils  of  mist, 
tinged  with  saffron,  pink,  and  violet,  wavered  and  faded  from  the  up- 
lands ;  but  on  the  water  they  clung  writhing  in  pearly  ropes  for  nearly 
an  hour  longer.  The  woods  all  about  were  full  of  the  "  Canada-bird," 
or  white-throated  sparrow,  whose  limpid,  pathetic  whistle  lacked  never 
an  echo.  As  we  watched  the  crystalline  pageant  of  the  morning  a  blue 
film  stole  between  our  eyes  and  it,  then  a  dazzling  shimmer,  and  we 
knew  that  the  camp-fire  was  lighted.  Soon  a  smell  of  pancakes  and 
hot  coffee  invaded  our  couch,  and  springing  up  with  alacrity  we  were 
fairly  launched  out  upon  a  delicious  Sunday's  rest. 

We  set  off  on  Monday  early,  while  the  mists  were  yet  on  the  stream, 
and  the  elm-branches,  in  the  moveless,  cool  air,  were  drooping  as  if 
asleep.  This  was  the  luxurious  time  for  traveling,  and  in  the  heat 
about  noon  we  could  indulge  ourselves  in  a  siesta.  At  half-past  ten  we 
reached  Red  Rapids,  a  spot  where  the  river  revels  down  a  wild  incline 
of  red  sandstone.  The  day  had  turned  out  temperate  and  cloudy. 
These  rapids  being  shallow  and  difficult,  we  disembarked,  and  carrying 
our  rods  along  with  us  took  a  settlements-road  parallel  with  the  stream, 
leaving  the  Indians  to  navigate  the  chutes,  and  appointing  to  meet 
them  later  at  the  mouth  of  Trout  Brook.  But  a  pleasant  surprise  was 
in  store  for  us.  We  soon  came  within  sound  of  laughter  and  singing, 
the  neighing  of  horses,  and  the  shouts  of  young  backwoods  swains.  A 
turn  of  the  road  brought  ns  out  upon  a  clearing  all  alive  with  tethered 
teams  and  strolling  couples.  In  the  midst  of  the  clearing  was  a  barn,  in 
which  was  being  held  what  I  may  define  as  a  picnic  tea-meeting.  From 
the  mouth,  from  Arthuret,  from  Andovor  even,  they  had  gathered  in  hila- 
rious parties,  in  a  gorgeous  but  bewildering  whirl  of  fluttering  ribbons  and 
many-colored  attire.  They  received  us  into  their  midst  with  the  frank- 
est and  heartiest  hospitality.  It  was  a  gay  time  for  us,  till  the  Eccle- 
siastic unkindly  pointed  out  that  we  had  consumed  nearly  three  hours 
in  this  Vanity  Fair.     The  Artist  and  I  had  made  a  perfect  host  of 


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acquaintances  (especially  among  the  maidens),  who  did  not  seem  to 
want  us  to  go  away.  We  had  played  many  games,  interesting  and 
more  or  less  naive,  in  the  course  of  which  {1  blush  to  tell  it)  it  had  fallen 
to  the  Artist's  lot  to  kiss  the  prettiest  damsel  present.  We  had  been 
treated  to  the  dubious  delights  of  the  swing,  which  made  us  dizzy ;  and 
we  had  laid  out  a  vast  amount  of  precious  muscle  in  assisting  to  swing 
fair  laiies.  This  swinging  was  the  darling  pastime  of  the  ladies,  whose 
passion  for  it  seemed  insatiable,  and  was  indulged  with  great  expendi- 
ture of  giggling  and  small  shrieks,  and  witli  an  artless  prodigality  of 
spotless  stockings.  At  length  the  Ecclesiastic  was  obliged  to  remind 
us  of  our  families,  and  to  point  out  that  the  rural  beaux  were  looking 
grim  ;  so,  with  pockets  full  of  cookies,  conversation  lozenges,  and  other 
tender  tributes,  we  gathered  up  our  tackle  and  withdrew.  Perhaps 
we  imagined  it,  but  it  seemed  to  us  a  gloom  fell  over  the  company 
as  we  left. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  brook  the  Indians  were  awaiting  us.  Had  we 
kept  them  so  waiting  all  day  they  would  never,  such  is  their  patience, 
have  dreamed  of  complaining.  We  stayed  to  fish  the  last  hundred 
yards  or  so  of  Trout  Brook,  getting  fine  sport  with  some  lively  and 
voracious  half-pounders.  The  brook  seemed  alive  with  sprightly  and 
graceful  fish,  from  a  quarter  to  a  half  pound  in  weight.  The  Ecclesi- 
astic said  a  good  many  of  these  would  weigh  a  pound  and  over ;  such 
delicious  ambiguity  is  the  safeguard  of  a  fisherman's  reputation. 

Later  on  we  halted  at  a  ruined  mill,  where  the  dilapidated  dam 
seemed  a  part  of  the  river's  bank,  and  the  scanty  stream  that  had  sup- 
plied it  fell  over  the  moss-greened  timbers  in  a  diaphanous  veil  of  sil- 
ver. The  mill-pond  above  was  shallow,  and  muffled  in  water-liUes,  from 
under  which  we  lured  some  large  but  soggy -looking  trout.  They  had 
little  play  in  them,  for  all  their  vast  and  ferocious  black  mouths.  For 
the  rest  of  the  day  we  little  cared  to  fish ;  we  were  content  with  the 
dolcc  far  niente  which  our  tireless  Melieites  and  this  peerless  river  con- 
spired to  make  possible  for  us.  Our  journeying  was  after  this  fashion. 
Before  embarking,  the  Indian  would  heap  into  the  canoe,  aft  of  the 
front  bar,  a  sweet-smelling  armful  of  ferns,  or  wild  grasses,  or  hem- 
look-boughs.  This  for  our  seat.  For  a  back  thereto  he  would  fix  a 
wide  bit  of  board  against  the  second  bar ;  and  over  it,  for  softness, 
throw  a  blanket  or  a  coat.  Stretched  out  on  such  soft  couch,  our  feet 
in  moccasins,  our  rods  thrust  into  the  bow  ahead  of  us,  we  lolled,  or 
smoked  (all  but  the  Ecclesiastic),  or  read,  or  took  notes,  or  chatted 


\ 


: 

1;: 


i 


I 


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UP  TBE  TOBIQUE  BY  CANOE. 


\ 


lazily  across  the  waters  that  parted  canoe  from  canoe.  Or  at  times, 
when  we  preferred  it  so,  how  sweet  it  was  simply 

"  to  watch  the  emerald-colored  water  falling  '^ 

From  cave  to  cave  through  the  thick-twined  vine  "  ; 
or 

"  hearing  the  downward  stream, 
With  half-^hut  eyes  ever  to  seem 
Falling  asleep  in  a  half  dream  ! " 

We  passed  the  embowered  mouth  of  the  quiet  Wapskehegan,  navi- 
gable for  20  miles,  but  said  to  contain  no  fish ;  and  a  little  farther  we 
discovered  what  may  have  been  a  former  channel  of  this  stream.  It 
was  a  sharply-defined,  tortuous  gi'een  lane,  leading  from  the  river's 
brink  back  into  the  wilderness,  with  alders  and  poplars  and  ash-trees 
dipping  into  it.  Plainly  it  was  not  a  roadway.  It  resembled  the  bed 
of  a  river  from  which  the  sparkling  floods  had  been  shut  off,  that  the 
influent,  liberal,  grassy  tide  of  summer  might  flow  in  thereby  and 
brighten  over  the  land. 

Leaving  behind  the  '*  Wapsky "  and  its  problematical  ancient  de- 
bouchement,  we  came  to  one  of  the  lions  of  the  Tobique,  the  beautiful 
"  Plaster  Cliff."  The  opposite  shore  is  low  and  luxuriantly  wooded, 
with  a  mat  of  vinos  over  trees  and  underbrush.  The  cliff  itself  rises 
so  sheer  from  the  water's  e,dge  that  only  in  one  or  two  places  was  it 
possible  to  land ;  and  its  face,  about  100  ft.  in  height,  is  a  many-col- 
ored rock  so  soft  that  we  could  carve  out  specimens  with  our  knives. 
The  surface  crumbles  rapidly  under  the  frost  and 

"  The  stealthy  depredations  of  gray  rain  "  ; 

and  the  settlers,  in  winter,  come  from  miles  about  and  haul  it  to  their 
farms  as  a  fertilizer.  The  naked  wall  loomed  over  us,  but  could  not 
look  forbidding  with  its  lovely  mixture  of  cool  blues  and  grays,  reds 
and  browns  and  yellows  and  umbers,  somber  purples  and  rosy  or 
creamy  whites.  Wheresoever  there  was  a  ledge,  or  fissure,  or  gentle 
slope,  there  would  be  gathered  a  rich  detritus  bearing  a  perfect  hang- 
ing-garden of  wild  flowers.  The  pendulous  cups  of  the  hare-bell  swung 
airily  from  every  crevice,  sometimes  so  thickly  as  to  hang  a  veil  of 
blue  lace-work  over  many  square  yards  of  the  rock.  From  the  dizzi- 
est shelves  drooped  the  twisted  pea  green  cables  of  the  vetch,  studded 
with  its  vivid  purple  blossoms ;  and  the  white  aromatic  yarrow  flung  a 
iilvery  mantle  over  the  lowermost  slopes.    I  have  never  seen  in  nature 


TIP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


173 


!ZI- 

led 

a 

ire 


another  color-harmony  so  exquisite.     The  Artist  was  enraptured,  and 
wished  his  pencil  were  compounded  of  the  rainbow,  rather  than  of  ; 
sober  graphite.     The  Ecclesiastic  found  a  sermon  of  marvelous  elo- 
quence in  these  stones. 

Above  Plaster  Cliff  the  river  runs  through  a  wide  belt  of  red  sand- 
stone, remarkable  for  its  depth  and  strength  of  tone.  The  next  land- 
mark in  my  memory — or  should  I  style  it  a  "  watermark  ?  " — is  the 
Oxbow.  This  is  a  curious  and  strongly  defined  double  bend  in  the 
river,  and  we  reached  it  late  in  the  afternoon.  Here,  instead  of  the 
airiness  and  park-like  effects  of  hard  wood  shores  and  grass,  we  had  a 
sort  of  warm  and  cheerful  shadow,  deep,  quiet,  olive  waters,  rich-hued, 
close-drawn  shores  of  fir  and  cedar,  and  rocks  all  muffled  in  moss. 
We  paused  awhile,  in  hope  of  striking  a  salmon.  We  tried  our  most 
alluring  flics,  but  the  salmon,  if  on  hand,  were  apparently  not  open  to 
inducements.  The  trout,  however,  were  very  numerous,  and  rose  finely, 
besides  being  of  a  larger  size  than  any  we  had  hitherto  taken.  The 
Ecclesiastic  chose  to  fish  from  shore,  whither  Steve  followed  to  help 
land  the  larger  fish ;  the  Artist  also  went  ashore,  to  sketch ;  but  with 
Tom's  assistance  I  fished  from  the  canoe.  Steve  had  been  evincing 
some  desire  to  try  his  own  dusky  hand  at  the  sport ;  so  at  last  the  Ec- 
clesiastic handed  him  the  rod  for  a  moment,  with  a  few  cautionary 
hints,  and  betook  himself  up  the  bank  to  a  spring  he  had  espied  among 
the  rocks.  I  held  my  hand  to  watch  Steve,  as  he  stood  proudly  wield- 
ing the  unaccustomed  lance-wood ;  and  in  that  posture  the  Artist  im- 
mortalized him.  All  the  preliminaries  the  Indian  accomplished  with 
skill ;  but  presently  a  fair-sized  trout  took  one  of  his  flies,  and  started 
off  up  stream  with  it.  Now  Steve  was  in  a  piteous  quandary.  He  bad 
forgotten  all  that  he  had  been  told  to  do.  He  did  not  understand  the 
reel,  and  was  afraid  the  rod  was  going  to  break.  He  simply  stood  and 
looked,  with  an  expression  of  profound  concern  on  his  mahogany  face. 
When  the  trout  started  back,  he  pulled  in  some  of  the  slack  with  his 
fingers,  gingerly  enough,  but  let  it  go  at  once  when  the  fish  started 
off  again.  No  one  would  go  to  his  assistance  uninvited,  lest  he  should 
wound  the  Melicitc  dignity.  At  last  a  variation  was  introduced.  A 
large  fish  seized  the  disengaged  fly,  as  it  trailed  about  the  pool ;  and 
then  Steve  turned  fiantically  and  rai-^^cd  a  cry  for  help.  The  Ecclesi- 
astic, with ,  immense  laughter,  ran  up  and  seized  the  rod ;  and  after  a 
sharp  struggle  both  prizes  were  brought  to  basket.  The  two  together 
weighed  a  pound  and  three  quarters,  and  Steve  most  complacently  - 


m 


■  • 


1,1 


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UP   THE   TOBTQUE   BY   CANOE. 


plumed  himself  on  being  their  captor.  For  all  that,  however,  he  would 
not  touch  the  rod  again ;  perhaps  dreading  lest  a  more  dubious  success 
might  cast  tarnis^h  upon  his  piscatorial  laurels. 

Just  beyond  the  Oxbow  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gulquac,  one 
of  the  Tobique's  most  important  affluents.  A  little  below  it  we  saw  a 
deep,  eddying  pool,  in  which  lay  several  salmon.  They  dispersed  at  our 
coming,  but  we  marked  the  spot.  At  the  Gulquac  was  a  small  island, 
treeless  and  grassy  and  stony,  on  which  we  encamped.  Then,  leaving 
the  Artist  to  sketch,  t'  ^  Melicitcs  to  get  supper  ready,  the  Ecclesiastic 
and  I  took  a  canoe  and  dropped  down  to  look  for  those  salmon.  They 
had  not  yet  returned,  however ;  so,  promising  to  call  again  next  morn- 
ing, we  poled  back  to  the  Gulquac.  This  river  joins  the  Tobique  in  a 
long,  straight,  shallow  race,  just  swift  enough  to  dimple  and  bubble 
deliciously.  The  place  was  alive  with  trout,  of  all  sizes  saving  the 
largest.  We  used  a  small,  brown  fly,  and  in  half  an  hour  took  four 
dozen,  ranging  from  six  or  seven  ounces  to  three  quarters  of  a  pound. 
As  the  dusk  thickened  we  put  on  small  moths,  and  with  a  lavender- 
colored  fly  I  killed' two  fish  that  closely  approached  the  pound.  The 
Ecclesiastic,  just  as  we  decided  to  reel  up,  struck  a  large  fish  that  gave 
him  good  fight,  and,  with  his  usual  slice  of  luck,  brought  it  safely  home. 
It  went  a  pound  and  thirteen  ounces.  We  reveled  in  trout  hencefor- 
ward till  we  began  furtively  examining  our  sides  and  shoulders  to  see  if 
little  rows  of  vermilion  spots  were  beginning  to  come  out  upon  us,  or 
fish-bones  to  stick  through  our  skin.  That  night  we  named  our  halting- 
place  Camp  Mosquito. 

In  the  morning  the  Ecclesiastic  and  I  paid  an  early  visit  to  the 
pool,  in  accordance  with  our  resolve  of  the  evening  before.  We  were 
fortunate  enough  to  find  the  salmon  at  home.  Tying  the  canoe  to  a 
projecting  branch  a  little  above  the  pool,  we  made  long  and  crafty 
casts  right  down  to  the  critical  spot.  We  used  small,  quiet  flies,  such 
as  are  most  killing  in  the  Nepisiguit,  and  played  them  lightly  over  the 
surface.  Presently,  as  my  fly  fell  softly  on  the  outermost  edge  of  the 
eddy,  there  came  a  strange  little  whirlpool  right  beneath  it,  followed 
by  a  screech  from  my  reel.  The  Ecclesiastic  dropped  his  rod  as  if  it 
had  burnt  him,  slipped  the  knot,  and  seized  a  paddle  to  be  ready  for 
assisting  me.  Like  a  bow  of  silver  the  salmon  shot  into  the  air, 
straightened  himself,  and  fell  slap  on  the  spot  where  he  expected  the 
line  to  be.  But  it  wasn't  there — I  had  dropped  my  rod-tip  in  time. 
Without  a  pause,  anotlier  and  wilder  leap,  right  toward  the  canoe ;  and 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


175 


we  saw  him  fiercely  shake  at  the  tiny  feather  sticking  fast  in  his  jaw. 
Then,  after  two  more  leaps,  and  an  attempt  to  dart  under  the  canoe, 
foiled  by  a  strong  sweep  of  the  Ecclesiastic's  f  -«»*•,  he  hummed  off 
down  stream,  while  the  reel  sang,  and  the  canoe  followed  as  fast  as  our 
paddle  could  urge  it.  When  he  had  taken  off  about  sixty  yards  of  my 
line  he  turned  for  an  up-stream  scurry,  which  was  hard  on  my  paddle 
but  still  harder  on  himself.  I  dared  to  check  him  severely  while  going 
in  that  direction.  Then  came  another  scries  of  leaps,  and  another 
rush,  and  not  till  after  twenty  minutes  of  fight  did  the  splendid  fish 
seem  to  grow  perceptibly  weaker.  At  last  those  mighty  rushes  became 
short  and  of  little  account ;  he  lay  half  on  his  side  close  by  us,  and  the 
Ecclesiastic  lifted  the  gaff.  But  the  sight  seemed  to  rouse  him  to  one 
last  effort.  He  whizzed  off  and  brought  up  blindly  in  a  shallow  pool 
close  to  shore.  We  drew  in  and  cut  off  his  retreat.  The  Ecclesiastic 
has  a  just  dislike  to  the  gaff,  so  he  slipped  overboard  into  the  shallow 
water,  with  a  swift  motion  got  both  arms  beneath  the  fish,  and  threw 
him  out  upon  the  grass.  Poor  salmon,  what  a  gallant  fight  he  had 
made!  We  gave  him  an  instant  quieltis,  and  gazed  upon  him  with 
respect  and  admiration.  "  How  about  the  favored  clergy  now  ?  "  in- 
quired the  Ecclesiastic,  as  we  poled  homeward.  I  said  nothing ;  and 
that  salmon  went  thirteen  pounds. 

This  day's  voyaging  was  pleasant,  though  about  midday  the  heat 
was  so  appalling  as  to  drive  us  to  covert.  Early  in  the  day  we  reached 
Two  Brooks,  which  is  the  singular  name  given  to  one  small  brook  run- 
ning through  a  little  settlement.  At  its  mouth  was  a  salmon-weir, 
running  out  nearly  to  mid-stream.  To  our  right  rose,  in  hazy  grandeur, 
the  twin  summits  of  Blue  Mountain,  its  nearer  slopes  a  stony  and  fire- 
scathed  wilderncsis ;  on  our  left  the  brawling  brook,  some  rich  groves, 
the  gray  little  village,  and  fields  of  charred  stumps,  all  muffled  in  deep 
grasses.  The  fishing  here,  for  numbers,  was  superb.  There  was  no 
limit  to  it,  apparently.  The  Artist  built  him  a  lean-to,  that  he  might 
sketch  in  shade;  and  he  penciled  a  masterpiece.  This  masterpiece, 
since  rendered  permanent  with  ink  and  Chinese  white,  depicts  the 
Ecclesiastic  with  his  trousers  rolled  far  above  his  energetic  knees, 
the  skirts  of  his  clerical  coat  (donned  in  deference  to  the  neighboring 
civilization)  dragging  in  the  water,  established  as  near  mid-stream  as 
wading  would  place  him,  while  he  throws  his  whole  heart  into  dropping 
his  fly  into  the  very  back-wash  of  the  weir.  Myself,  averse  to  exertion, 
conspicuous  by  my  lightness  of  attire,  am  fishing  from  the  canoe.    The 


176 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


H 


N. 


Artist  himself  appcarH  not  in  the  masterpiece,  which  is  so  far  in- 
complete. 

As  through  the  afternoon  we  continued 

"  Ever  climbing  up  the  climbing  wave," 

we  narrowly  escaped  being  run  down  by  a  voyaging  squirrel.  This 
brave  little  voyager  was  making  across  current  diagonally,  and  seemed 
to  us  somewhat  exhatisted.  The  Ecclesiastic,  being  nearest,  stretched 
out  his  paddle  to  the  bushy  navigator,  who  straightway  climbed  aboard, 
and  sat  up,  dripping  but  "  chipper,"  upon  the  bow  of  the  canoe.  Con- 
ducted courteously  to  the  other  shore,  which  he  reached,  by  a  daring 
leap,  before  we  had  time  fairly  to  land  him,  he  whisked  ofp  without  a 
word  of  acknowledgment  or  a  hint  of  paying  his  fare.  Later  we  passed 
a  green  snake  swimming  along  complacently,  and  wc  concluded  the 
creatures  were  sanctioning  the  pernicious  practice  of  bathing  in  the 
heat.  We  accepted  his  sanction  as  valid ;  and  at  the  next  pool,  in- 
stead of  fishing,  we  swam.  Toward  sundown  we  reached  a  couple  of 
small  islands,  beloijr  which  the  fishing  was  excellent  and  the  fish  large. 
The  trout  rose  all  around  us,  took  our  flies  greedily,  and  it  was  most  re- 
luctantly that  we  tore  ourselves  away.  A  mile  farther  on  we  Encamped 
on  a  tempting  point  of  dry,  sweet  meadow,  round  which  the  river 
swept  in  a  narrowed  channel ;  and  Steve,  pointing  to  the  deep,  rapid 
curve,  said :  "  Plenty  salmon  here,  mebbc ;  ugh  ! "  We  all  tried  for 
these  straightway,  even  the  Artist,  while  supper  was  getting  ready ; 
but  we  took  only  two  or  three  trout  and  a  wretched  chub.  Next 
morning,  however,  brought  us  better  fortunes.  Standing  at  the  lower 
comer  of  the  bend,  I  raised  a  small  salmon  at  my  second  throw  ;  but 
there  was  some  flaw  in  the  casting-line,  and  he  sailed  ofF,  to  my  deep 
disgust,  with  two  flie.s  and  a  couple  of  yards  of  gut.  Thereafter,  I 
suppose,  he  tried  some  fishing  on  his  own  hook.  A  few  minutes  later 
I  heard  a  shout  from  the  Ecclesiastic  on  the  other  side  of  the  point. 
Rushing  to  him,  I  found  him  busy  with  what  was  evidently  a  first-rate 
fish ;  when  brought  to  book,  after  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  excitement, 
it  proved  an  eleven-pounder. 

Not  far  beyond  this  camp  we  sighted  Bald  Mountain,  rising  some 
miles  back  from  the  river,  out  of  the  midst  of  cedar  swamps.  Here  is  the 
little  settlement  of  Riley's  Brook,  endowed  with  the  most  primitive  afl'air 
in  the  way  of  post-office  that  I  have  ever  yet  discovered.  We  mailed 
letters  here,  exceeding  brief  ones,  consigning  them,  with  certain  mis- 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY    CANOE. 


177 


givlngfl,  to  the  care  of  the  prhnitivc  postmaster — a  rheumatic  old  lady. 
Then  we  ptished  on  for  the  Forks,  biddinj]^  <:;ood-by  to  the  last  of  To- 
bique  civilization.  Tlie  next  few  miles  wore  through  a  fire-stripped 
country.  We  siglited  here  a  bald-headed  eagle,  which,  perched  on  the 
top  of  a  bleached  pine  trunk,  kept  guard  over  the  surrounding  desola- 
tion. His  perch  was  but  a  stonc's-throw  back  from  the  stream,  and 
as  we  approached  he  stretched  out  his  lean  neck,  his  flat,  sharp,  snake- 
like head,  and  surveyed  our  movements  inciuisitively.  When  we  had 
got  well  past  he  seemed  to  repent  having  let  us  off  so  easily,  and  yelped 
after  us  some  choice  maledictions.     Then  we  came  to  the  P'orlis. 

The  Forks  of  the  Tobi(|ue — this  was  one  of  the  chief  objective 
points  of  the  expedition.  Here  is  the  trout-ground  of  the  river ;  and 
here,  too,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  salmon.  Three  large  streams  at  this 
point  flow  together.  From  the  southward  conies  the  Campbell  River, 
more  commonly  called  the  Right  Branch ;  next,  the  Mamo/ekel — 
"  River  of  Alders,"  as  the  Molicite  hath  it — forming  the  middle  tine  of 
this  delectable  fork ;  and  from  the  northward  the  Left  Branch,  alias 
the  Little  Tobique,  alias  the  Nictor.  Where  these  waters  gather  in 
conclave  the  shores  draw  somewhat  apart,  inclosing  a  spacious,  deep, 
sandy-bottomed  basin,  full  o/  quietly-circling  eddies  and  swirls.  The 
southward  walls  of  this  watery  amphitheatre  arc  low  and  rankly  wooded, 
but  on  the  north  they  are  high  and  bare,  forming  an  airy  perch  whereon 
we  pitched  our  tent.  The  tongues  of  land  between  the  converging 
streams  were,  for  the  most  part,  of  luxuriant  weedy  meadow,  melodi- 
ously noisy  with  bobolinks.  While  dining  on  the  height  we  gloated 
over  the  liberal-bosomed  pool  spread  out  below  us,  and  as  soon  as  din- 
ner was  over,  leaving  the  Artist  to  his  pencil,  we  took  two  of  tiie  canoes 
and  crossed  to  the  side  where  the  Right  Branch  emptied  in.  The 
Ecclesiastic  stationed  himself  upon  one  side,  I  on  the  other,  while  our 
Melicites  held  us  in  position  by  thrusting  down  their  paddles  into  the 
sand.  For  a  time  the  sport  was  merely  good,  not  markedly  better  than 
much  we  had  left  behind  us ;  and  the  fish  were  fastidious,  taking  noth- 
ing but  a  smallish  gray  and  yellow  fly.  Our  persevering  casts  for  a 
salmon  elicited  no  response  whatever.  Then  the  breeze  moderated,  as 
the  sun  began  to  cast  lengthening  shadows,  and  all  at  once  the  pool 
became  alive.  Here  and  there  a  magnificent  trout,  of  almost  any  num- 
ber of  pounds,  according  to  our  excited  eyes,  would  leap  with  the  com- 
plete abandon  of  the  smaller  fry ;  and  the  smaller  fry  themselves  seemed 
to  spend  a  large  part  of  their  time  in  the  air.  We  shifted  our  flies  a 
13 


;- 


178 


UP  TIIK   TOBIQUE   BY   CANOE. 


IJ 


little,  but  aoon  found  that  the  trout  of  Tobi(|Uc  Forks,  when  bent  on 
making  a  meal,  would  make  it  of  whatever  ndght  i-onic  handiest.  Each 
new  fly  seemed  better  than  the  lust.  The  half  and  three-quarter  pound 
fish  were  reeled  in  with  an  alacrity  which  set  glistening  the  eyes  of  our 
stoical  Mclicites.  I  had  already,  after  a  series  of  brisk  flghts,  taken 
several  lively  one-and-a-half-pounders,  and  in  the  bottom  of  my  canoe 
lay  a  deep-set,  solid  trout  that  I  flattered  myself  would  go  over  the  two 
pounds.  The  Ecclesiastic,  to  judge  from  his  joyous  occasional  shouts, 
was  being  no  less  successful.  At  last,  as  it  drew  near  sundown,  and 
our  wrists  had  grown  well-nigh  helpless,  I  caught  a  sharp  exclamation 
from  the  Ecclesiastic,  which  made  me  turn  to  look  at  him.  He  was  so 
occupied  that  I  thought  he  had  hooked  a  salmon.  Just  then  the  fish 
rolled  half  out  of  water,  and  I  saw  it  was  indeed  a  trout,  but  one  of 
patriarchal  proportions.  "  A  five-pounder ! "  I  shcuted,  frantically ;  but 
the  fisherman  shut  his  lips  and  said  never  a  word.  He  had  need  of  all 
his  faculties.  This  trout  gave  him  the  work  of  a  salmon  of  more  than 
twice  his  size.  The  strife  was  long  and  desperate,  but  kept  within  the 
circle  of  the  pool,  and,  when  the  Ecclesiastic  netted  his  prize  at  last,  it 
was  without  having  moved  a  hand-breadth  from  his  post.  Just  from 
the  water  this  trout  well  cleared  four  pounds.  It  was  the  fish  of  the 
trip.  The  Ecclesiastic  afterward  struck,  and  lost,  one  which  he  consid- 
ered larger  (this  was  on  the  following  day);  and  one  which  I  am  ready 
to  swear  to  as  the  historical  five-pounder,  rose  in  a  dilettante  fashion  to 
inspect  my  "  Jock  Scott "  when  I  was  on  the  quest  for  salmon ;  but  I 
can't  deny  that  these  weights  are  problematical.  The  fish  stayed  not 
long  enough  to  permit  of  my  being  more  accurate.  Mt/  best  trout  of 
the  expedition  went  several  ounces  short  of  the  three-pound  scratch ; 
but,  when  we  came  to  brag  of  salmon,  I  was  away  ahead  of  the  Eccle- 
siastic. We  put  in  two  more  days  at  the  Forks,  in  the  course  of  which 
we  discovered  that  the  salmon  had  a  penchant  for  the  lower  part  of  the 
pool,  where  I  killed  three  more,  good  fish,  the  Ecclesiastic  at  the  same 
time  scoring  a  couple  of  grilse.  The  Tobique  salmon  do  not  rise  so  freely 
as  those  of  the  Nepisiguit  or  Miraniichi.  As  for  the  number  of  trout 
which  we  had  taken — and  early  we  stayed  our  hands — the  Indians 
salted  them  down  in  birch-bark  crates.  We  imagined  the  mahogany 
youngsters  at  Tobique  mouth  reveling  in  the  fruits  of  our  prowess ;  and 
we  imagined  them  so  vividly  that  the  artist  forthwith  made  a  sketch  of 
our  imaginings.  And  thus  we  felt  no  scruples  on  the  abundance  of  our 
catch. 


I) 


Ul'   THE   TOBIQUE    BY   CANOE. 


179 


and 


i      Before  we  set  out  for  up  the  Nictor  we  had  to  endure  a  break  in 
our  little  party.     The  EucloHiuHtic  had  duties  in  town  which  required 
him  to  be  back  at  a  certain  day,  and  early  on  our  third  day  at  the 
Forks  he  took  his  departure.     We  supplied  him  with  rubber  blankets 
for  a  lean-to,  and  with  sundry  of  the  choicest  delicacies  from  out  com- 
missariat ;  and  after  a  sorrowful  farewell  we  watched  him  and  his 
faithtul  Steve  glide  off  with  the  current.     As  for  us  who  were  left  be- 
hind, for  a  while  we  fell  into  a  kind  of  melancholy.     Rousin<;  ourselves 
at  last  we  struck  tent,  shipped  our  dunnage,  and  made  ready  to  ascend 
the  Nictor.     Our  aim  was  Little  Tobicpie,  or  Nictor  Lake,  with  its 
guardian  mountain.    We  got  off  at  about  eleven,  and  our  little  flotilla 
appeared  to  us  sadly  dimuiisheil.     We  missed  the  Ecclesiastic's  unflag- 
ging ardor,  and  the  Artist  could  find  no  heart  to  sketch,  the  penster  to 
take  notes  or  flourish  his  lance-wood.     The  poling  at  first  was  difficult, 
as  the  Nictor  here  flows  over  a  formation  of  flagstones  and  slate-ledges, 
affording  poor  hold  to  the  poles.     Passing  this  we  made  good  headway, 
and,  stopping  for  lunch  at  the  mouth  of  Cedar  Brook,  found  the  trout 
large,  hungry,  and  abundant.    The  Artist  became  fisherman  here,  and 
we  tried  hard  to  shake  off  our  depression.     We  were  stayed  more  than 
once  by  windfalls,  large  trees  blown  right  across  the  channel,  and  sev- 
eral of  the  rapids  we  scaled  were  very  shoal,  as  our  canoes  bore  painful 
witness.     Throughout  the  day  a  fly,  wherovcr  cast,  was  sure  to  raise  a 
fish.    By  sundown  we  had  covered  two  thirds  of  our  way,  and  we  en- 
camped where  a  little  nameless  brook  flows  in  from  the  north.    I  shall 
never  forget  how  the  sand-flies  swarmed  at  this  camp.    They  burrowed 
into  our  nostrils,  our  ears,  our  hair.    They  developed  a  most  depraved 
taste,  an  actual  craving,  it  seemed,  for  our  tar  ointment,  in  which  we 
had  fairly  soaked  ourselves.    The  evening  fishing  was  utterly  spoiled 
for  us.     We  retreated  to  the  tent,  which  the  Indians  walled  about  with 
a  chain  of  "smudges";  then,  when  we  had  recovered  from  our  panic, 
we  began  loudly  exulting  in  the  discomfiture  of  our  foes.     A  roaring 
fire  of  dry  pine-logs,  the  pleasant  smell  of  the  cedar  smudges,  a  good 
supper,  and  a  comfortable  couch  in  the  glow,  soon  restored  us  to  some- 
thing like  our  wonted  cheerfulness.    We  sang  songs,  smoked  our  pipes, 
and  shouted  many  a  warm  greeting  to  the  solitary  canoe  which  had 
forsaken  us,  and  which  we  pictured  as,  by  this  time,  possibly  sliding 
down  by  the  Wapskehegan's  mouth. 

Next  day  we  made  never  a  halt  to  fish,  and  in  the  early  afternoon 
shot  out  upon  the  steely  mirror  of  Little  Tobique  Lake.    The  Bcen,e 


'I 


^u 


180 


UP   THE   TOBIQUE   BY    CANOE. 


was  almost  oppressive  in  its  stillness  and  its  somber  majesty.  Round 
the  lake-shores  were  masses  of  dark  syenite,  with  equally  dark  swamp- 
forests  intermingled ;  and  near  the  lake's  head  rose  Nictor  Mountain, 
a  beetling,  naked  cone  of  feldspar,  frowning  into  subjection  the  lesser 
hills  which  crouched  and  huddled  aroimd.  The  water  was  of  great 
depth,  ice-cold,  and  colorless.  The  woods  appeared  to  harbor  no 
birds  or  squirrels,  and  the  only  familiar  sound  which  greeted  us  was 
the  piping  of  the  frogs,  which  arose  toward  evening.  We  scaled  Nictor 
Mountain,  which  is  some  2,000  ft.  high,  and  from  its  summit  had  such 
a  panorama  of  hills,  and  rivers,  and  lakes,  as  I  have  described  elsewhere 
as  seen  from  the  peak  of  Sugar-Louf.  We  noted  old  Sugar-Loaf  on 
the  bright  northwestern  horizon.  At  this  place  we  spent  a  day  and 
two  nights,  finding  no  lack  of  sport  in  the  gloomy  waters ;  but  the 
region  proved  too  severe  and  chilling  for  us,  and  its  atmosphere  of 
stony  endurance  crept  into  our  very  souls. 

"  The  strange-ecrawlcd  rockt^,  tbe  lonely  sky, 
If  I  mifjbt  lend  their  life  a  voice, 
Se(im  to  bear  rather  than  rejoice.'" 

We  had  not  time  at  our  disposal  to  portage  to  Nepisiguit  Lake  and 
descend  that  wild  river.  As  we  hastened  away  with  the  racing  current, 
on  our  downward  tiip,  one  morning,  we  seemed  to  leave  behind  us  a 
whole  mountain  of  vicarious  woe.  We  stopped  not  till  we  reached  the 
Forks  that  same  afternoon. 

After  a  successful  evening's  sport  in  the  well-loved  pool,  we  found 
that  now  we  had  little  room  to  spare  in  the  canoes,  on  account  of  the 
Indians'  cargo  of  salt-fish.  Thenceforth  we  killed  but  enough  for  each 
meal.  On  our  down  trip  we  made  great  progress,  and  traveled  luxuri- 
ously. My  remembrance  of  it  is,  for  the  most  part,  a  confusion  of 
greens  and  blues  and  browns,  streaming  away  behind  us  as  we  fled, 
with  a  vivid  effect  in  rose  and  white  at  Hod  Kapids,  and  a  study  in 
black,  wilh  lightning  high-lights,  when  we  made  the  passage  of  the 
Narrows  during  a  thunderstorm.  We  ran  the  Red  Rapids  about  noon, 
in  a  reckless  mood,  with  enthusiasm  and  hair-breadth  escapes.  At  the 
Narrows  we  kept  our  heads  level,  for  the  stream  was  pretty  full;  and 
the  passage,  amid  the  roar  of  the  surges,  the  voUeyings  of  the  ponderous 
thunder,  the  streaming  of  the  rain,  and  the  blue  dartiugs  of  the  light- 
ning from  cliff  to  cliff,  was  thrilling  enough  for  all  reasonable  demands. 
A  half-hour  later  we  were  in  Andover,  at  Perley's  Hotel,  donning  the 


BY   RAIL   FROM   WOODSTOCK. 


181 


the 


garb  of  civilization  with  a  dej^ree  of  haste  marvelously  accelerated  by 
a  savor  of  beefsteak  and  buckwheat  pancakes. 

By  Rail  from  Woodstock. 

From  Woodstock  the  C.  P.  R,  runs,  for  the  most  part,  through  a 
rather  rough  country  to  McAdam  Junction^  passing  Debec  Junction, 
whence  the  Iloulton  IJranch  diverges.  Hoiilton,  in  Maine,  has  between 
4,(t0t)  and  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is  a  progressive  little  town.  Ten  miles 
beyond  Dobec  Junction  is  the  station  of  Wickliam.  The  landscape  seen 
from  the  car-windows  throughout  by  far  the  greater  part  of  this  route 
can  hardly  be  Ciilk-d  exhilarating.  Sometimes  there  is  a  little  appear- 
ance of  cheer  around  the  stations ;  and  among  the  charred  stumps  of  the 
half-cleared  fields  are  i)atches  of  sweet-smelling  buckwheat.  As  a  rule, 
the  forests  consist  chiefly  of  gray  bowlders  and  the  trunks  of  dead 
trees.  In  late  sunnner,  however,  the  brilliant  blossoms  of  the  fire- 
weed  touch  the  desolation  with  a  purple  glory.  Twenty-six  miles  from 
Woodstock  is  the  station  of  h'cl  River.  Five  miles  beyond  is  Canter- 
hurt/  Sfadon,  in  the  neighboihood  of  the  famous  Skiff  Lake.  In  this 
water  is  taken  the  landlocked  salmon  or  "shiner,"  a  magnificent  game- 
fish,  very  much  like  the  ouananiclie,  but  running  to  a  larger  size.  It  ia 
in  every  way  the  peer  of  its  more  renowned  relative,  but  is  at  times 
very  capricious  in  its  tastes,  refusing  to  rise  to  the  most  seductive  fly  in- 
vented. The  station  of  Deer  Lake,  .35  miles  from  Woodstock,  is  a  mere 
lumbering  post.  Twenty-two  miles  beyond  the  gray  bowlders  thicken 
over  the  face  of  the  landscape,  and  among  them  we  discover  McAdam 
Junction,  where  one  may  get  refreshments  in  the  station  restaurant. 
Thence,  passing  the  stations  of  Barber  Dam  and  Lawrence,  we  come  to 
Waft  Junction,  14  miles  from  McAdam  ;  here  a  branch  diverges  to  St. 
Stephen,  a  distance  of  20  miles. 

aS7.  Stephen  is  a  progressive  little  town  at  the  head  of  navigation  on 
the  St.  Croix  River.  It  is  a  center  of  the  lumber-trade,  and  has  grow- 
ing manufactures.  Contiguous  with  St.  Stephen  is  Milltown,  with  a 
large  cotton-mill.  Together  the  two  towns  have  a  population  of  be- 
tween 4,0(i0  and  5,000.  Across  the  river,  and  forming  practically  one 
community  with  St.  Steidien  and  Milltown,  is  the  little  American  city 
of  Calais,  in  the  State  of  Maine.  Calais  has  between  7,000  and  8,000 
inhabitants.  Between  these  communities,  though  they  differ  in  their 
allegiance  and  their  flag,  there  exist  the  closest  harmony  and  most  inti. 


^  :  :ll    I 


if  '■ 


t-i 


182 


BY   RAIL   FROM   WOODSTOCK. 


mate  social  relations;  but  the  bridges  connecting  them  are  guarded 
by  the  customs  officials  of  both  nations.  Nevertheless,  the  neighbor- 
hood affords  a  fine  field  for  interesting  and  sometimes  successful 
smuggling  experiments.  In  the  War  of  1812  St.  Stephen  and  Calais 
refused  to  come  to  blows,  or  to  regard  each  other  as  enemies.  The 
chief  hotel  of  St.  Stephen  is  the  Queen  Hotel.  In  Calais  the  best  are 
the  American  House  and  Border  City.  At  Milltown  the  navigation 
of  the  river  is  closed  by  falls.  A  steamer  runs  daily  in  summer, 
semi-weekly  in  winter,  down  the  river  to  8t.  Andretos  and  Eastport, 
connecting  with  the  boats  of  the  Interna/ ional  S.  S.  Co.  St.  Stephen 
is  at  present  the  western  terminus  of  the  Shore  Line  Railway.,  which 
ruii3  eastward  to  St.  John.  From  Calais  a  railway  runs  21  miles 
N.  W.  to  the  foot  of  the  Schoodic  Lakes,  whence  a  small  steamer  as- 
cends to  the  famous  fishing-grotmds  of  Grand  Lake  Stream,  in  Maine. 
The  lower  lake  is  occupied  by  pike,  which  have  cleared  out  the  more 
valuable  game-fish ;  but  the  upper  waters  abound  with  brook-trout, 
lake-trout,  landlocked  salmon,  and  pickerel.  Near  the  foot  of  Big 
Schoodic  dwells  a  tribe  of  the  Quoddy  Indians,  among  whom  may  be 
hired  guides  to  the  labyrinths  of  lakes  and  streams  connecting  with  the 
Schoodics.  By  short  portages  from  these  waters  one  may  reach  tribu- 
taries of  the  Penobscot  and  Machias. 

The  main  line  from  Watt  Junction  passes  the  little  stations  of  Dum- 
barton (3  miles  from  the  Junction),  Rolling  Dam  (7  miles),  and  here  we 
touch  the  Digdiguash  River,  and  follow  its  course  some  miles ;  Hewitt's 
(8  miles),  Roix  Road  (12  miles),  Waweig  (14  miles),  Bartlett's  (16  miles), 
and  Chamcook  (22  miles).  Here  the  scenery  becomes  impressive.  We 
skirt  Passamaquoddy  Bay.  Chamcook  Mountain  is  a  steep  and  solitary 
mass,  overlooking  the  bay  and  the  quiet  bosom  of  Chamcook  Lake.  A 
few  miles  above  Chamcook,  on  the  St.  Croix,  is  the  picturesque  inlet 
of  Oak  Bay.  At  this  point  the  St.  Croix  bends  at  right  angles  to  its 
course,  and  forms,  witli  Oak  Bay,  a  figure  much  resembling  a  cross, 
whence,  according  to  tradition,  is  derived  its  name.  Five  miles  beyond 
Chamcook  Station  we  run  into  the  delightful  watering-place  of  St.  An- 
drews, a  village  of  two  thousand  and  odd  inhabitants,  and  the  shire 
town  of  Charlotte  County. 

Acadian  history  makes  its  real  beginning  at  this  point.     To  the 
St.  Croix,  in  1601,  came  Cliamplain  and  the  Sieur  de  M<mts,  and  planted 
a  colony  on  a  little  grassy  island  within  the  river's  mouth.     A  quad 
rangle  of  wooden  buildings  was  erected,  with  a  chapel,  and  the  Govern- 


BY   RAIL   FROM   WOODSTOCK. 


183 


or's 


the 
ited 
tad 
}rn- 


residence.  In  spite  of  the  lateness  of  the  season,  grain  and  vege- 
tables were  planted,  and  a  garden  was  laid  out,  after  the  fashion, 
faintly,  of  those  old  gardens  in  France,  for  which,  it  may  be,  the  colo- 
nists were  now  a  little  homesick.  But  in  the  bleak  days  of  late  autumn 
their  situation  was  dreary  enough ;  and,  because  their  crops  had  failed 
to  ripen,  they  were  compelled  to  live  mainly  on  salt  meats,  a  diet  which 
speedily  afifected  their  health  and  spirits.  At  last  winter  came,  and  the 
snow,  and  the  freezing  winds ;  such  cold  as  in  their  own  land  they  had 
never  learned  to  dream  of.  The  sleet  drove  in  through  the  chinks  of 
their  ill-made  buildings.  Fuel  was  hardly  to  be  obtained,  and  they 
shivered  over  their  scanty  fires,  till,  in  spite  of  Champlain's  indomitable 
and  never-failing  cheerfulness,  their  hearts  sank  utterly  within  them. 
When  disease  broke  out — scurvy  in  a  terrible  form,  from  their  un» 
wholesome  living — they  fell  an  easy  prey.  Out  of  some  80  persons,  but 
44  survived,  and  these  hardly.  When  the  first  warm  days  came  they 
crawled  forth  in  the  sun  like  shadows.  Scarcely  could  the  sick  be  at- 
tended, the  dying  ministered  to,  the  dead  buried.  In  the  spring  the 
island  was  abandone  1,  ' sipped  of  all  that  could  be  carried  away;  the 
fortifications  were  dit;:^'  '«.'",  and  the  poor  remnant  of  the  colony  fled 
over  the  bay  to  Port  R  .  i'  .  \^ow,  the  lighthouse-keeper  is  the  one  man 
who  makes  St.  Croix  Island  his  home.  When,  in  1783,  the  St.  Croix 
River  was  fixed  upon  as  the  boundary  between  Maine  and  New  Bruns- 
wick, it  became  a  disputed  question  as  to  what  was  the  true  St.  Croix. 
The  Americans  claimed  that  it  wa^s  the  river  now  known  as  the  Maga- 
guadavic,  much  farther  to  the  eastward ;  but  after  much  searching  the 
dispute  was  laid  to  rest,  and  the  British  claim  established,  by  the  dis- 
covery of  the  remains  of  Champlain's  settlement,  on  Doncet's  Island, 
above  St.  Andrews. 

jS'^  Andrews  is  commandingly  situated  on  a  peninsula  between  the 
St.  Croix — at  this  point  two  miles  wide — and  Passamaquoddy  Bay.  It 
was  of  old  an  important  shipping  center,  with  a  great  West  Indian 
trade,  but  its  supremacy  has  been  stolen  and  divided  by  St.  John  and 
St.  Stephen.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  in  squares,  with  wide  and  well- 
kept  streets,  and,  besides  its  charms  of  scenery  and  climate,  it  has  inter- 
esting remains  of  old  British  fortifications. 

St.  Andrews  has  expectations  of  a  great  commercial  future,  which 
may  or  may  not  be  realized,  though  her  harbor  is  certainly  all  that 
could  be  desired.  As  a  summer  resort  her  popularity  is  yearly  in- 
creasing.    She  has  her  cool  sea-breezes  in  the  hottest  months,  her  im- 


i   ' 


i 


t 


i 

II 


'ii 


I: 


IS-^ 


BY    RAIL    FROlVr    WOODSTOCK. 


munity  from  flio  Fiindy  fo«j;s,  her  frosli  iind  salt,  wator  fisliinji.  More, 
ovor,  hIu'  lias  Ium*  batliing,  joyously  iii(lul;^o(l  in  by  f^ay  parties  of  voting 
nion  atid  niaiilens,  old  men  and  eliildren.  The  water,  however,  is  some- 
times uneomfortably  eool.  A  favorite  diversion  at  St.  Andrews  is  the 
sport  of  lobster-spearinjj;.  In  the  eool  of  the  niornini!;,  when  the  tide 
suits,  there  is  a  novel  exeitement  in  bcinjj;  rowed  stealthily  over  the 
transparent  preen  water,  while,  spear  in  hand,  one  jieers  eajj;orly  into 
the  masses  of  brown  seaweed  that  dot  the  level  bottom.  In  these 
clumps  of  seaweed  Inrks  oin-  bottle-green  prey,  closely  resembling  his 
surroundings  in  color,  but  betrayed  by  his  red  points.  The  lobster- 
spear  is  not  a  spear  at  all,  but  a  hook.  It  does  not  penetrate  the  lob- 
ster's shell,  but  catches  under  its  l)elly  among  the  small  claws  ;  and  one 
must  be  neat-handed  and  swii't  to  land  the  nind)le  crustacean.  The 
excitement  reaches  its  highest  i)itch  after  a  few  active  lobsters  have 
been  captured  and  tlropped  loose  in  llu'  boat,  to  investigate  the  merry 
fishermen's  ankles.  In  the  way  of  hotels,  St.  Andrews  has  a  regular 
hostelry  called  the  (\ ntral  Kxchainp.,  also  the  large  summer  hotels,  the 
Arifi///  I/ousc  and  tjic  A/rfoiKfiiiii.  Opposite  the  town  is  the  American 
ship  building  village  of  I\obl)inst(m.  Travelers  who  have  come  straight 
through  by  rail,  without  divi'rging  to  Sf.  Stip/ir'ii,  will  do  well  to  visit 
the  latter  town  by  the  up-river  boat.  They  will  find  good  scenery  at 
Oak  Bay,  already  nuMitioucd,  where  staiuls  the  lovely  pastoral  village 
of  the  same  name.  Leaving  Oak  Hay,  the  steamer  passes  on  the  left  a 
promontory  called  Devil's  Head,  named  ui  somewhat  ambiguous  com- 
menuiration  of  a  settler  named  Duval  who  once  dwelt  thereon.  Three 
miles  beyond  is  the  ancient  tishing  village  known  as  The  Lodge;  and 
another  l  miles  brings  us  to  St.  Stephen. 

Campobello  and  dirniid  lUaiiRii. 

To  visit  the  sununer  resorts  of  C*raiid  Manan  and  C'ampobcllo 

one  nmst  take  the  boat  to  Knstporl,  on  tiu'  Maine  coast.  From  Kast- 
port  to  Campobello,  which  is  in  Canadian  waters,  a  ferry-steamer  runs 
every  himr.  The  islaml  has  a  permanent  populaticm  of  1.100  inhab- 
itants, dwelling  in  the  villages  of  Welchpool  and  Wilson's  Heaeh.  Cam- 
pobello is  8  miles  long  by  W  broad,  and  is  traversed  by  beautiful  drives 
commanding  magnificent  views  from  upland  aiul  lofty  pnunontory.  Its 
ancient  name  was  Passamaquoddy  Island.  In  1 707  it  was  granted  to 
Admiral  W.  Fitzwilliam  Owen,  who  used  to  pace  up  and  down  in  full 


BY   RAIL   FROM    WOODSTOCK. 


185 


i:!)st- 

I'uns 
liiib- 
Fain- 
ilves 
Its 
to 
Full 


uniform  on  a  (lunrtcr-dcck  wliicli  he  built  «)ut  over  the  rocks.  The 
ndiiiirnl  was  not  less  peculiiir  in  his  death  than  in  his  life,  for  he  was 
buried  at  ni<?ht,  by  Ihe  lij;ht  of  candles  in  the  little  family  ('hurcli.  The 
island  is  redolent  with  romantic  inemories  and  le<;ends,  and  stories  of 
ghosts,  pirates,  and  wrecks.  During  the  Fenian  scare  (»f  \H{\{\  a  ntim- 
ber  of  ardent  Irishmen  feathered  at  Knstport  to  invadi;  (/ampobello,  but 
altered  their  benevolent  intcMition.  Admiral  Owen's  heirs  of  the  [(res- 
ent •••eneralion,  beeominjj;  tired  of  the  seclusion  and  (piiet  of  ('ampo- 
bello, at  lenf:;th  removed  (o  I']n;^land,  and  in  IKHO  the  island  was  pur- 
chased by  a  syndicate  of  American  capitalists,  who  have  uuhU-  it  a  sum- 
mer resort  of  the  first  rank.  The  old  Owen  Manor-II(uiS(!  has  been 
enlarged  into  a  most  attractive  hotel,  ealleil  the  (}m'ri,  which  retains 
many  of  the  distinctive  charms  of  its  earlier  days — the  Lovers'  Lane, 
and  the  old-fashioned  hedges,  sundial,  and  porter's  lodge.  IJesides 
the  (hrcii,  the  ('ampobello  (/'oiiipauy  has  erected  two  more  summer 
hotels  on  the  island.  These  are  [(ceuliarly  bandsonuf  and  striking 
buildings,  and  rejoice  in  the  e(puilly  striking  names  of  the  y)/u->/-fJoed</. 
and  the  7)/ii-i/-M(iis,  which  signify  respectively  "The  House  in  the 
Wood"  and  "The  House  in  the  Field."  Small  as  the  island  is,  it  has 
variety  of  scenery,  and  points  of  interest  to  visit, — such  as  the  light- 
houses, the  inlet  of  Harbor  de  Lute,  tlu!  bold  promontory  of  Eastern 
Head,  the  beautiful  cove  and  lake  of  (Jlen  Severn,  and  the  famous 
landmark  known  as  Friar's  Head.  This  is  a  lofty  detached  mass  of 
rock  thrust  up  out  of  the  sea,  and  its  battiM'cd  fiiee  bears  witness  to  the 
fact  that  it  has  been  used  as  a  target  for  the  guns  of  cruising  war- 
ships. 

The  island  of  Oraud  Maixw  lies  about  T  miles  off  the  coast  of 
Maine,  but  forms  a  portion  of  New  Brunswick.  Its  people  arc  quaint 
and  hospitable,  its  summer  climate  delicious,  its  fishing  and  shooting 
are  good,  and  its  scenery  a  well-nigh  nuitchless  blending  of  the  beau- 
tiful and  the  grand.  Moreover,  it  is  not  a  rcijuUn'  summer  resort.  It 
lies  out  of  the  beaten  track,  and  is  as  yet  perfectly  unhackneyed.  There 
arc  no  gigantic  smnmer  hotels,  atul  the  visitor  must  as  a  rule  find  board 
in  private  houses,  which  he  may  do  very  comfortably  and  pleasantly  at 
from  %^-\  to  I"?  a  week.  There  is  the  added  charm  of  uncertainty  as  to 
when  one  will  get  there;  and,  this  accomplished,  as  to  when  one  will 
get  away.  (Jrand  Manan  is  reached  by  steamer  from  Eastport — very 
easily  and  pleasantly  when  the  weather  suits,  and  not  at  all  when  the 
weather  does  not  suit.     There  is  also  eonununication  with  St.  John  by 


'•V 


ft 


1 


\ 


186 


BY    RAIL    FROM    WOODSTOCK. 


i  :■ : 


the  steamer  Flushing.  Its  harbors  are  small  and  not  ea^y  of  access, 
its  shores  avc  terrific,  and  the  variety  and  velocity  of  the  currents 
which  the  great  Fundy  tides  succeed  in  creating  in  the  island  channels 
are  something  which  must  be  seen  to  be  realized.  The  island  is  22 
miles  long,  with  an  extreme  breadth  of  6  miles.  It  lies  in  the  mouth 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  has  about  3,000  inhabitants,  who  occupy 
chiefly  a  thin  line  of  .settlements  along  the  E.  shore,  and  devote  them- 
selves to  the  rich  fisheries  of  the  surrounding  waters,  which  simply 
swarm  with  cod,  haddock,  and  herring.  The  island  was  visited  by 
Ghamplain  in  1  fi05,  but  for  nearly  two  centuries  thereafter  it  had  no 
inhabitants  biit  the  Indians.  The  Indians  of  Grand  Manan  are,  like  its 
white  inhabitants,  the  most  daring  and  skillful  of  fishermen.  It  is 
marvelous  to  see  them  go  out  in  their  bark  canoes  upon  the  mighty 
waves  that  toss  about  those  shores,  and  shoot  porpoises,  whose  bodies 
in  some  miraculous  manner  they  drag  aboard  their  frail  craft  and  carry 
safely  to  land. 

The  chief  village  on  the  island  is  Grand  Harbor^  situated  on  a 
shallow  bay.  This  village  has  a  pretty  little  stone  church  and  a  typi- 
cal country  inn.  Near  by  are  the  small  lakes  called  Grand  Ponds ;  and 
off  the  harbor  lie  a  number  of  small  islands,  connected  with  memories 
of  Audubon,  who  spent  some  time  among  them  in  1 833,  studying  the 
habits  of  the  gulls.  From  Grand  Harbor  a  road  leads  around  the  S. 
shore  to  Seal  Cove,  and  thence  along  the  heights  to  Broad  Cove.  Nine 
miles  off  the  coast  at  this  point  lie  the  Wood  Islands  and  Gannet  Rock 
Lighthouse.  From  Broad  Cove  a  foot-path  leads  to  Southwest  Head, 
a  lofty  promontory,  amid  the  grasses  of  whose  summit  the  sea-gulls 
build  their  nests.  Around  the  N.  shore,  8  miles  from  Grand  Harbor, 
lies  Whale  Cove,  with  surpassing  views,  and  a  beach  on  which  one 
may  pick  up  jasper  and  agates.  Close  by  is  Eel  Brook  Cove,  where 
the  ship  Lord  Ashburton  was  wrecked,  with  the  loss  of  all  on  board. 
A  little  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  cape  called  Bishop's  Head,  with  a  pro- 
file thought  to  resemble  that  of  a  human  face.  Between  Grand  Harbor 
and  Whale  Cove  we  pass  through  Woodward's  Cove,  Flagg's  Cove,  and 
the  matchlessly  picturesque  and  artistic  village  of  Sprague's  Cove  nest- 
ling under  the  S.  shore  of  the  high  and  storm-beaten  peninsula  called 
Swallow-tail  Head.  The  W.  coast  is  a  frowning  wall  of  cliffs  from 
800  to  400  ft.  high,  in  which  are  the  wild  and  romantic  indenta- 
tions of  Dark  Cove  and  Money  Cove,  where  the  ubiquitous  Captain 
Kidd  is  supposed  to  have  buried  some  of  his  treasure.    On  this  coast 


k 


p\] 


BY   RAIL   FROM   WOODSTOCK. 


187 


also  is  Indian  beach,  wliere  a  number  of  ttie  Quoddy  Indians  pass  the 
summer  engaged  in  the  porpoise-fishery  already  referred  to.  The 
island  is  in  telegraphic  communication  with  the  mainland  by  a  subma- 
rine cable  to  Eastport.  Very  lately  one  or  two  small  hotels  have  been 
erected,  the  most  prominent  of  which  is  the  Marble  Ridge  House,  near 
North  Head. 

In  the  time  of  Charlevoix,  if  wc  may  trust  that  ancient  chronicler, 
there  existed  off  the  coast  of  Grand  Manau  r  marvel,  the  vanishing  of 
which  can  not  be  too  deeply  deploiv  '      '  even  asserted  that   u. 

three  fourths  of  a  league  off  Isle  Menanc,  wh.^..  serves  as  a  guide  to 
vessels  to  enter  St.  John's  River,  there  is  a  rock,  almost  always  covered 
by  the  sea,  which  is  of  lapis-lazuli.  It  is  added  that  Commander  de 
Razilli  broke  oft"  a  piece,  which  he  sent  to  France,  and  Sieur  Denys, 
who  had  seen  it,  says  that  it  was  valued  at  ten  crowns  an  ounce." 


iri 

ifi 


ain 
ast 


The  Return  to  St.  John. 

To  St.  John  we  may  go  either  by  boat  or  by  rail.  To  go  by  boat 
we  take  the  steamer  Charles  Houghton  from  St.  Stephen  or  St.  An- 
drews to  Eastport^  and  thence  the  International  S.  S.  Co.  boat  along 
the  coast  to  St.  John,  past  Deer  Island,  through  Friar's  Road  and  the 
Eastern  Passage,  through  wonderful  fishing  waters,  usually  dotted  with 
boats  and  sails,  past  the  West  Isles  and  the  grim  and  terrible  rocks 
called  the  Wolves,  past  the  far-seen  headland  of  Point  Lepreaux,  then 
the  landmark  called  Split  Rock,  and  round  the  dark  mass  of  Partridge 
Island  into  the  St.  John  Harbor. 

To  go  by  rail,  we  take  the  Shore  Line  Railway  at  St.  Stephen,  its 
western  terminus.  It  is  proposed  to  continue  this  line  westward  through 
the  coast  towns  of  Maine  to  Bangor.  Between  St.  Stephen  and  St. 
John  by  rail  is  a  distance  of  82  miles.  The  first  station  out  of  St. 
Stephen  is  Oak  Bay  (16  miles);  then  come  Dyer's  (20  miles),  Bonny 
River  (24  miles),  and  St.  George  (35  miles).  This  pretty  little  town 
has  an  extensive  trade  in  lumber  and  in  the  magnificent  product  of 
its  red  granite  (juarries.  The  town  is  on  a  high  plain.  Beside  it  flows 
the  Magaguadavic  (commonly  called  Magadavy),  which  plunges  into 
the  harbor  over  a  fall  of  100  ft.,  through  a  chasm  not  more  than  30 
ft.  in  width.  On  the  sides  of  the  gorge  cling  saw-mills,  from  which 
the  new-cut  deals  are  sluiced  into  the  foaming  basin  below.  Near  St. 
George,  in  a  nest  among  the  rounded  hills,  is  the  lovely  water  called 


i 


\ 


i  I 


^^1 


188 


THE   RETURN   TO   ST.    JOHN. 


J '  Lake  Utopia^  wherein  one  may  find  some  good  trout-fishing.  The  popu- 
lation of  St.  George  is  4,000  and  odd.  Beyond  St.  George  are  the 
stations  of  Pennficld  (40  miles),  iVew  River  (53  miles),  Leproaux  (58 
miles),  Lancaster  ((56  miles),  Muscjuash  (73  miles),  and  Spruce  Lake 
(76  miles).  Spruce  Lake  is  7  miles  from  St.  John.  It  is  a  pretty 
sheet  of  water,  5  miles  in  length,  and  abundantly  stocked  with  perch. 
It  is  the  source  from  which  Carleton  draws  its  water-supply.  Between 
Spruce  Lake  and  (^arleton  extends  the  pretty  drive  known  as  the 
Mahogany  Road.     The  fare  between  St.  Stephen  and  St.  John  is  |2.50. 

From  Moncton  to  Amherst. 

Leaving  Moncton  by  the  Ilnlifax  hxpreas  our  first  stopjjage  is  at 
Painsec  Juncti<m,  a  distance  of  7  miles.  Tlience,  passing  Meadow 
Brook,  we  inn  down  the  valley  of  the  Memramcook  to  the  prosperous 
Acadian  farming  villa;.;c  of  the  same  name,  the  seat  of  St.  Joseph's 
College.  Eight  miles  farther  on,  25  miles  from  Moncton,,  is  the  sleepy 
but  beautiful  little  town  of  Dorchester,  the  shire  town  of  the  rich 
county  of  Westmoreland.  Dorchester  was  once  a  great  ship-building 
center,  and  contains  much  wealth,  though  its  business  is  decaying.  It 
has  handsome  private  residences,  important  freestone  quarries,  and 
the  questionable  attraction  of  the  ^laritirae  Provinces  Penitentiary, 
which  draws  some  visitors  to  Dorchester  who  might  not  go  there  oth- 
erwise. 

From  Dorchester  the  railroad  runs  across  the  top  of  the  long  penin- 
sula between  Shepody  Bay  and  Cumberland  Basin,  and  strikes  the  lat- 
ter at  the  growing  town  of  Snckville,  36  miles  from  Moncton.  Sackville 
is  not  a  pretty  town,  but  it  is  prosperous  and  progressive.  It  has  a 
population  of  nearly  2,000,  and  is  thinly  spread  out  over  a  succession 
of  low  hills  of  rich  red  soil,  overlooking  the  Great  Tnntramnr  Marshcn 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Tantramar  River.  The  town  has  foundries  and 
factories,  is  the  center  of  a  boundlessly  rich  agrictdtural  region,  and 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Cope  Tormentine  Bailwni/,  so  called,  whose 
official  title.  The  New  Brunswick  and  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway, 
is  somewhat  large  for  so  small  a  road,  but  37  miles  in  length.  It 
also  has  the  important  educational  institutions  of  Mount  Allison  Col- 
lege and  Seminary  and  Boys'  School,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Meth- 
odists. The  chief  hotels  are  the  Brunswick  House  and  Intercolonial 
Hotel.  Sackville  is  a  ship-building  centei- ;  and  all  along  the  picturesque 
road,  which  leads  through  the  villages  of  Westcock,  Woodpoint,  and 


The  popu- 
jrge  are  the 
jcpreaux  ( 58 
•Spruce  Lake 
19  a  pretty 
with  perch, 
y.  Between 
lown  a8  the 
)hn  is  $2.50. 


)ppage  is  at 
ing  Meadow 
e  prosperous 
St.  Joseph's 
is  the  sleepy 

of  the  rich 
ihip-bnilding 
toeaying.  It 
luarries,  and 

enitentiary, 
tlierc  oth- 

ong  pcnin- 
<es  the  lat- 
Packville 
It  has  a 
succession 
fw  Marshes 
mdries  and 
region,  and 
led,  whose 
d  Railway, 
igth.  It 
Uison  Col- 
the  Meth- 
tercolonial 
icturesqiie 
point,  and 


!.:  ' 


I: 

i  ■ 


; 


Vtipc  I'ofcapine.  Cape  Sf.  (iioryv,  from  Ilasthujs. 


FROM   MONCTON    TO   AMIIERRT. 


189 


Rockport,  down  the  peninsulii  to  North  .lofjg'uis,  one  may  see  a  ship  on 
the  stocks  in  almost  every  tidal  ereek.  If  the  tide  is  out,  the  big  vessel 
appears  as  if  she  were  b(!ing  built  far  inland,  on  a  rivulet  not  large 
enough  to  flttat  her  jolly-boat;  but  at  high  tlile  this  rill  becomes  a  full- 
bosomed  estuary,  and  the  new-launched  ship  is  carried  easily  from  her 
birthplace. 

Leaving  Sackvillc  Station  the  train  crosses  the  Tantramar  and  runs 
out  upon  the  marshes.  The  river,  whose  name  is  a  corruption  of 
its  old  French  appellation,  TinttDnarrc.  signifying  "  a  hubbub,"  is  a 
typical  tidal  stream.  Ai  low  water  its  broad  and  winding  channel 
is  a  deep  gash  of  livid  red  across  the  fair  green  face  of  the  marshes. 
The  steep  sides  glisten  in  the  sun,  cut  sharply  here  and  there  by 
the  paths  of  tributary  brooks.  Along  the  bottom,  tlH  or  70  ft.  below 
the  level  of  the  marshes,  clamors  the  fiesii-water-stream.  Presently 
the  tide  returns,  red  and  foaming,  and  the  noisy  lurrent  rushes  far  in- 
land, resting  not  till  the  chasm  is  ftdl  to  its  gras.><y  brim.  Then  begins 
the  emptying  process,  which  goi'S  on  with  increasing  ha-^te  and  tunmlt 
to  the  utmost  of  the  ebb.  Th.e  (Ireat  Tantramar  ^'arsh,  over  which  we 
now  run,  contains  more  than  40  s(puire  nules  of  inexhaustibly  fertile 
salt  meadow,  reclaimed  from  the  sea  by  dikes.  About  the  head  of  the 
marsh  lie  bogs  and  pools,  which  are  famous  shooting-grounds;  and 
over  it,  in  all  directions,  feed  in  the  autumn  great  flocks  of  plover.  In 
early  summer,  before  the  mowing,  the  level  expanse  is  a  lovely  sight, 
with  its  rich  green  crop  bending  all  one  way  before  the  ceaseless 
winds,  varied  along  the  meandoring  dikes,  that  follow  every  creek 
channel,  with  lines  of  wild-rose  thicket  and  beds  of  purple  vetch.  We 
are  now  on  the  Minims  of  Clmjucdo^  connecting  New  Brunswick  with 
the  Acadian  Peninsula,  now  called  Nova  Scotia.  The  length  of 
this  isthmus  is  the  di.stance  between  Sackville  on  the  N.  side  and 
Amherst  on  the  S.,  about  10  miles.  Its  width,  between  the  waters 
of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  those  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  is  about 
17  miles.  The  whole  region  is  n)0st  interesting,  as  Avell  geologically 
as  historically.  Most  of  it  is  salt  marsh,  beneath  whose  surface, 
at  a  depth  of  many  feet,  diggings  have  revealed  the  remains  of  ancient 
forests,  proving  that  the  district  was  once  upland.  At  present  one 
portion  of  the  shore  is  slowly  continuing  its  submergence,  while  the 
other  is  rising  at  about  the  same  rate.  The  alluvial  deposit  produces 
year  after  year  the  heaviest  crops  of  grass,  and  retpiires  no  fertilizer 
but  mud  from  the  neighboring  creek  channels,  or  a  flooding  from  the 


: 


190 


FKOM   MONtTON   TO   AMHERRT. 


tide.  The  hi!«torlc  intcrcHt  of  the  region  centers  around  the  old  Fort 
Cumberland,  or  "  Beiuisejour,"  whicli  standn  al)out  midway  across  the 
isthmus,  on  a  long  ridge  of  uplands  just  beyond  Auhic  Station. 

The  old  French  Fort  of  Beaus6jour  figures  very  prominently  in  the 
enchanting  pages  of  Parknian.  It  played  an  important  part  in  those 
events  which  culminated  in  the  expulsion  of  the  Acadians  in  1766. 
When  Acadie  was  ceded  finally  to  England,  the  French  claimed  that 
the  name  applied  only  to  the  peninsula,  and  not  to  that  portion  of  old 
Acadie  which  now  constitutes  New  Brunswick.  They  made  the  line  of 
the  Missiguash  (a  tidal  stream  cleavnig  the  murshes  just  S.  E.  of 
Beau86jour)  the  dividing  line  between  French  iind  English  territory,  and 
raised  the  strong  foit  of  Beausejour  to  guard  these  limits.  A  little 
beyond  the  Missiguash  runs  a  line  of  low  uplands,  on  which  the  English 
erected  the  opposing  stronghold  of  Fort  Lawrence.  Back  of  Fort  Law- 
rence, on  undoubtedly  English  territory,  clustered  the  thriving  Acadian 
village  of  Beaubaaain.  Between  the  rival  forts  went  on  continual 
skirmishings.  Beausejour  was  a  center  of  operations  for  the  unscru- 
pulous Abbe  I4B  Loutrc,  who  devoted  his  energies  to  keeping  the  sore 
open  between  the  Acadians  of  the  peninsula  and  their  new  masters. 
Many  of  these  Acadians  he  forced  by  threats  and  actual  violence  to  de- 
sert  their  farms  and  remove  to  French  territory,  where  many  of  them 
suffered  every  privation.  When  he  saw  the  village  of  Beaubassin 
prosperous  and  growing  content  with  English  rule,  he  and  his  Indian 
followers  burnt  the  settlement,  and  compelled  the  villagers  to  gather 
about  Beausdjour.  On  one  occasion,  when  a  party  of  English,  under 
Lieutenant  Howe,  were  approaching  from  Fort  Lawrence  with  a  flag  of 
truce,  they  were  fired  upon  by  the  abbe's  Christianized  savages  from 
behind  a  dike,  and  Howe  was  slain.  For  this  infamous  piece  of  treach- 
ery Le  Loutre  was  openly  blamed  by  the  F.-ench  officers  of  Beausejour, 
and  his  unscrupulous  policy  incurred  also  the  reprobation  of  the  best 
of  the  Acadian  parish  priests.  In  I75.'i  Governor  Shirley,  of  Massa- 
chusetts, and  Governor  Lawrence,  of  Nova  Scotia,  undertook  the  re- 
duction of  Beausejour.  The  Massachusetts  troops  were  led  by  Colonel 
John  Wiuslow.  The  whole  expedition  was  commanded  by  General 
Monckton.  The  French  defense,  conducted  by  the  disreputable  com- 
mandant Vergor,  a  tool  of  Bigot's,  was  of  the  feeblest.  Le  Loutre 
proved  himself  by  far  the  better  soldier.  To  this  day  we  may  see  in 
the  vaulted  ceiling  of  the  bomb-proof  the  great  hole  made  by  an 
English  shell  which  came  through  when  the  officers  were  at  breakfast, 


e  old  Fort 
across  the 
on. 

ntly  in  the 

rt  in  tlioso 

H  in   1766. 

aimed  that 

ion  of  old 

the  line  of 

ist  S.  E.  of 

rritoiy,  and 

I.    A  little 

he  English 

'  Fort  Law- 

ig  Acadian 

1  continual 

he  unscru- 

g  the  sore 

Y  masters. 

ence  to  de- 

y  of  them 

3eaubassin 

lis  Indian 

to  gather 

ish,  under 

1  a  flag  of 

ges  from 

of  treach- 

lausejour, 

the  best 

ni  Massa- 

k  the  re- 

y  Colonel 

General 

ble  com- 

ic  Loutre 

ay  see  in 

e  by  an 

reakfast, 


c^ 


c^ 


FROM   MONCTOX   TO   AMHERST. 


191 


and  in  its  explosion  killed  six  of  them,  together  with  an  English 
officer  who  had  been  taken  prisoner  a  few  days  before.  This  settled 
the  contest ;  and,  in  spite  of  the  passionate  protest  of  Le  Loutre  and 
one  or  two  officers,  Vergor  capitulated.  In  the  evening  a  body  of 
British  troops  marched  in,  and  Vergor  celebrated  his  brilliant  defense 
by  a  dinner  to  the  French  and  English  officers — at  which,  however, 
Le  Loutre  was  not  present,  having  escaf)ed  in  disguise.  After  its 
capture  the  fort  was  rechristened  Fort  Cumberland. 

After  rounding  the  slope  of  Fort  Cumberland  we  cross  the  Missi- 
guash  and  come  to  Fort  Lawrence  Station,  whence  we  see  a  little  to 
bur  right  the  abandoned  works  of  the  Chignecto  Ship  Railway — 
which  will  be  most  conveniently  visited,  however,  from  Amherst,  a 
couple  of  miles  beyond.  On  the  skirts  of  Amherst  we  cross  the  little 
tidal  stream  of  the  La  Planche,  and,  quitting  the  marshes,  run  into  the 
busy  depot,  thronged  with  freight-cars. 

As  soon  as  we  crossed  the  Missiguash  we  were  in  the  province  of  Nova 
Scotia,  which  will  be  referred  to  more  fully  in  another  place.  Amherst 
is  a  very  busy  town,  whose  population  of  between  4,000  and  5,000 
is  increasing  with  great  rapidity.  It  lies  48  miles  from  Moncton,  138 
from  Halifax.  Its  people  are  remarkable  for  their  enterprise.  It  has 
a  number  of  handsome  public  and  private  buildings,  along  with  much 
of  the  crudity  of  a  new  town.  With  a  rich  agricultural  and  mining 
country  behind  it,  the  outlook  is  very  bright  for  the  future  of  Amherst. 
It  has  a  short  railway  running  down  the  coast  to  the  coal-mines  of 
South  Joggins,  interesting  to  visitors  as  the  place  where  the  monster 
rafts  of  logs  are  put  together  to  be  towed  to  the  New  York  market. 

At  present  we  reach  Fort  Lawrence  and  the  railway  works  by 
a  drive  across  the  marsh  from  Amherst,  but  it  is  proposed  to 
open  shortly  an  electric  railway  between  the  two  points.  The  Tid- 
nisb  terminus  is  reached  by  stage  from  Amherst.  The  best  hotels 
of  Amherst  are  the  Terrace  Hotel  and  the  Amherst  Hotel.  From  here 
we  may  continue  on  by  the  Intercolonial  Raihua;/  to  Truro^  a  dis- 
tance of  76  miles,  and  thence  either  to  Halifax  or  to  Pictov,  P.  E. 
Island,  and  Cape  Breton.  The  route  we  propose  following  at  present, 
however,  now  takes  us  back  to  Painsec  Junction,  8  miles  this  side 
of  Moncton. 


:l 


ii 


\ 


192  PRINCE   EDWARD   ISLAND. 


PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

The  fare  from  Jloncton  to  Charlottetown  by  way  of  Point  du 
Cfienc  and  Summcmidc  is  $3.50 ;  return,  $5. P.O.  From  Painsec  Junction 
to  Point  du  Chene  is  12  miles.  Nine  miles  from  the  Junction  we  come 
to  the  pretty  summer  resort  of  ShediaC;  a  village  famous  for  its  oysters 
and  its  sea-bathing.  Shediac  has  a  vkvy  good  hotel,  the  Weldon  Housc^ 
and  is  much  frequented  during  the  hot  months  by  the  citizens  of  Monc- 
ton,  who  are  driven  from  their  homes  by  a  combination  of  dust  and  heat. 
At  Shediac  the  tide  flows  in  over  long  stretches  of  red  and  sun-warmed 
sand,  and  its  temperature  at  high  water  is  luxurious.  Point  du  Chene 
is  a  sandy  promontory  3  miles  long,  running  out  from  Shediac  into  the 
waters  of  Northumberland  Strait.  About  its  wharves  clusters  a  village. 
From  this  point  the  fine  steamers  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Navigation  Co.  sail 
daily  for  Summerside  on  the  arrival  of  the  morning  express  from  St. 
John.  The  steamboat  fare  from  Shediac  to  Summcrsidc  is  f  1.50.  The 
distance  is  35  miles.  Ouv  first  sight  of  the  island  is  a  glimpse  of  the 
low  red  cliffs  of  Cape  Egmont,  far  on  our  left.  Soon  afterward  we  are 
steaming  up  Bedeque  Bay,  at  the  head  of  which  lies  the  prosperous  and 
dusty  ship-building  town  of  Summerside,  with  a  population  of  some- 
thing over  3,000  and  a  heavy  export  trade  in  agricultural  produce. 

The  Island  Province,  the  smallest  of  the  confederation,  is  sometimes 
called  the  Garden  of  the  Gulf.  It  is  separated  from  New  Brunswick 
and  Nova  Scotia  by  Northumberland  Strait,  whose  ice  in  winter  some- 
times shuts  off  the  island  from  communication  with  the  rest  of  the 
world.  Such  intercourse  as  is  then  irregularly  achieved  is  carried  on 
with  dirticulty  and  danger  by  means  of  open  boats,  which  are  alter- 
nately dragged  over  the  ice-cakes  and  pushed  through  the  loose  ice  for 
a  distance  of  9  miles  between  Cape  Traverse  on  the  island  and  Cape 
Tormentine  on  the  New  Brunswick  shore.  The  Canadian  Government 
spends  great  sums  every  year  in  the  effort  to  keep  open  during  the  win- 
ter a  mail  and  passenger  communication,  and  has  had  constructed  a 
powerful  steamer,  the  Stanley,  especial!;  designed  for  penetrating  the 
ice.  This  boat,  however,  can  not  be  said  to  meet  all  the  rcfiuiroments 
of  the  case.  The  islanders  are  demanding  a  tunnel  or  a  subway  be- 
tween Cape  Traverse  and  Cape  Tormentine,  and,  gigantic  as  the  scheme 
appears,  it  will  doubtless  ere  long  become  an  accomplished  fact. 

The  extreme  length  of  Prince  Edward  Island  is  160  miles  and  its 


f  Point  du 

ec  Junction 

on  we  come 

r  its  oysters 

Idoti  Bouse, 

ns  of  Monc- 

st  and  heat. 

sun-wanned 

it  du  Chene 

iac  into  the 

rs  a  village. 

ion  Co.  sail 

IS  from  St. 

a. 50.     The 

ipse  of  the 

I'ard  we  are 

^perous  and 

of  some- 

uce. 

sometimes 

Jrunswick 

liter  some- 

est  of  the 

carried  on 

are  alter- 

ose  ice  for 

and  Cape 

)vernment 

g  the  win- 

structed  a 

ating  the 

iiircments 

lb  way  be- 

le  scheme 

ct. 

and  its 


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J;, 


M 


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PRINCE   EDWARD   ISLAND. 


193 


I 

i 


£ 


s 


2 


greatest  width  34  miles.  Owing  to  its  numerous  bays  and  inlets  it  has 
an  enormous  extent  of  coast-line.  It  has  no  lofty  hills,  no  rocks,  no 
barrens,  but  is  everywhere  cultivable.'  Its  soil  is  a  rich,  red  loam,  mar- 
velously  productive,  from  the  prevailing  color  of  which  the  islanders 
get  their  local  nickname  of  "  Redfeet,"  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
"  Bluenoses  "  of  Nova  Scotia  and  the  "  Buckwheats  "  of  New  Bruns- 
wick. The  island  is  particularly  noted  for  its  oats,  potatoes,  horses, 
and  oysters,  and  has  fisheries  of  great  value.  There  is  some  good 
trout-fishing  in  the  little  rivers  which  intersect  the  island,  and  along  in 
June  fascinating  sport  may  be  had  with  a  scai'lct  fly,  casting  in  the 
bpys  and  inlets  for  the  sea-trout,  which  at  that  season  come  in  in  great 
numbers  from  the  gulf.  These  are  a  magnificent  game-fish,  running 
from  3  to  5  pounds  in  weight,  and  are  usually  taken  by  casting  from 
side  to  side  while  running  before  a  light  breeze.  One  of  the  best 
places  for  this  fishing  is  St.  Petcrh  Bay^  about  30  miles  from  Char- 
lottetown,  the  provincial  metropolis. 

The  history  of  the  island  is  not  exciting,  and  derives  such  color  as 
it  has  chiefly  from  the  Acadians.  It  is  said  to  have  been  visited  by 
Cabot  in  1497.  Champlain  considered  himself  its  discoverer,  touching 
its  shores  on  St.  John's  day,  1608,  and  naming  it,  with  his  usual  lack 
of  invention,  Isle  St.  Jean.  At  this  time  it  was  inhabited  by  the  Mic- 
macs,  who  gave  it  the  name  of  Epjiyguit,  or,  as  it  is  better  spelled, 
Abegweit,  which  signifies  "  Anchored  on  the  Wave."  Early  in  the 
eighteenth  century,  when  England  had  conquered  Nova  Scotia,  a  few 
Acadians  moved  to  the  island,  where  they  pros[)ored  so  that  the  settle- 
ment rapidly  increased.  In  1 758,  when  it  was  taken  possession  of  by 
the  English,  it  had  a  population  of  4,100  Acadians.  In  1763  it  be- 
came a  part  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  was  granted  in  lots  to  100  English 
and  Scotch  gentlemen,  who  undertook  to  colonize  their  grants  within 
ten  years.  In  1770  the  island  was  made  a  separate  province,  and  its 
infant  capital  was  captured  by  the  Americans  in  1775,  who,  however, 
did  not  hold  it  long.  In  18*^0  it  received  its  present  name,  in  honoi-  of 
the  Duke  of  Kent,  the  father  of  Queen  Victoria.  In  1803,  800  Scotch 
Highlanders  were  settled  in  the  island  by  the  Earl  of  Selkirk,  and  the 
population  inci-eased  rapidly  by  immigration.  The  province  entered 
the  Canadian  Confederation  in  1873,  and  has  109,078  inhabitants. 

From  Summerside,  whose  chief  hotels  are  Rush's,  CnrnphelVs,  and  the 
Mawley  House  (known  also  as  the  CUfton),  one  may  follow  the  P.  E.  I. 
R.  R.  north  through  St.  Eleanors,  Miscouche,  Wellington,  Port  Hill  (a 
13 


i 


m 


m 


N 


i 


194 


PRINCE   EDWARD  ISLAND. 


ship-building  village  on  Richmond  fiay),  Richmond,  Northam,  Port 
Hill,  Ellerslie,  Conway,  Portage  (where  the  island  is  not  more  than 
4  or  6  miles  wide),  Colman,  O'Leary,  Bloomfield,  Elmsdale,  all  com- 
paratively uninteresting  little  settlements,  and  run  into  Alberton,  64 
miles  from  Summerside.  This  is  a  prosperous  ship-building  and  fish- 
ing village  on  Cascumpeque  Harbor,  and  has  about  900  inhabitants. 
It  is  interesting  as  the  birthplace  of  the  Gordons,  the  two  mission- 
ary martyr*  of  Eroraanga.  The  chief  inn  of  Alberton  is  the  Albion 
House.  Leaving  Alberton  we  pass  the  stations  of  Montrose,  Kildare, 
and  De  Blois,  and  reach  the  northern  terminus  at  Tignish,  68  miles 
from  Summerside.  This  little  village  of  Scotch  and  Acadian  Cath- 
olics is  an  important  fishing  center.  It  has  a  village  inn  called 
Ryan^s  Hotel.  A  drive  8  miles  northward  through  the  sand-hills  brings 
us  to  the  laud's-end  of  the  province,  North  Cape. 

From  Summerside  to  Charlottetown,  a  distance  of  49  miles,  we 
traverse  a  pretty  pastoral  country,  whose  endless  succession  of  farms 
and  farming  hamlets  wear  an  unvarying  air  of  prosperity  and  com- 
fort. The  journey  stands  out  in  one's  memory  chiefly  on  account  of 
the  curious  little  railway,  with  its  gauge  of  only  3  ft.  6  inches,  winding 
hither  and  thither  as  if  to  visit  every  farmer's  door.  It  is  said  that  a 
tourist  was  once  startled  by  what  appeared  to  be  a  train  about  to  crash 
into  the  rear  car  of  that  on  which  he  was  traveling.  It  turned  out, 
however,  to  be  only  the  locomotive  of  his  own  train,  which  was  round- 
ing a  peculiarly  exaggerated  curve.  Just  beyond  Summerside  the 
island  is  but  a  little  over  3  miles  wide,  being  almost  severed  here  by 
Richmond  Bay  on  the  one  side  and  Bedeque  Buy  on  the  other.  Nine 
miles  from  Summerside  is  the  station  of  Kensington,  whence  a  road 
leads  to  Princetown,  a  village  on  the  N.  shore,  which  was  laid  out  in 
squares  as  a  town,  and  still  awaits  the  population  that  never  came. 
Near  by,  on  the  safe  harbor  of  Malpcque^  is  the  village  of  the  same 
name,  a  pleasant  watering-place,  with  a  comfortable  inn  called  the 
North  Shore  Hotel.  Leaving  Kensington  we  pass  the  stations  of 
Blueshank  and  Freetown,  and  come  to  Emerald  Junction^  whence  a  rail- 
road runs  to  Cape  Traverse.  The  succeeding  stations  are  of  no  inter- 
est  till  we  come  to  Hunter  River,  a  good  trout-stream,  whence  a  high- 
way leads  N.  to  the  villages  of  New  Glasgow  and  Rustico.  The  latter 
is  a  quiet  and  delightful  summer  resort,  with  a  small  but  good  summer 
hotel,  the  Rustico  House,  on  the  sands  of  Rustico  Beach.  There  are  good 
bathing  and  boating  in  the  harbor,  which  is  rendered  unsafe,  however, 


jam,  Port 
nore  than 
I,  all  com- 
Ibei'ton,  54 
;  and  fish- 
habitants. 

0  roiasion- 
;be  Albion 
B,  Kildare, 
,  68  miles 
lian  Cath- 
inn  called 
lills  brings 

1  miles,  we 
I  of  farms 

and  com- 
iccount  of 
(S,  winding 
paid  that  a 
at  to  crash 
iirned  out, 
vas  round- 
erside  the 
here  by 
ler.    Nine 
ce  a  road 
lid  out  in 
ver  came, 
the  same 
lalled  the 
ations  of 
nee  a  rail- 
no  inter- 
le  a  high- 
'he  latter 
summer 
are  good 
however, 


PKINCE    EDWARD   ISLAND. 


195 


for  ships  of  any  size,  by  its  shifting  sand-bars,  thrown  up  by  the  gulf 
waves.  There  are  also  good  shooting  and  fishing  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  village  has  but  2.50  inhabitants,  yet  it  was  once  daring  enough  to 
own  a  bank — the  Farmers'  IJank  of  Rustico — whose  charter  has  ex- 
pired. Along  the  shore  to  the  eastward  lie  Shaw's  Beach,  with  a  good 
summer  hotel  (Shaw's),  and  Tracadie  Harbor  (Lome  Hotel),  which  are 
favorite  resorts  for  the  citizens  of  Charlottetown.  The  villages  of 
Tracadie  and  Covehead  are  Gaelic  settlements,  and  near  by,  on  French 
Fort  Creek,  stood  of  old  a  French  fortress,  protecting  the  short  portage 
of  \\  miles  from  the  head  of  the  Hillsborougli  River  to  Tracadie  Harbor. 
From  Hunter  River  Station  we  i)ass  North  Wiltshire,  Colville,  Mil- 
ton, Winsloe,  and  arrive  at  Royalty  Junction,  whence  diverge  the  lines 
to  Georgetown  and  Souris.  Six  miles  more  and  we  sweep  around  the 
city  of  Charlottetown,  and  enter  the  station  on  the  E.,  between  the  city 
and  the  Hillsborough  River.  In  the  station  the  train,  on  its  narrow, 
shining  rails,  looks  more  than  ever  like  a  toy  affair. 

Charlottetown. 

The  chief  hotels  of  Cliarlottetown  are  the  Hotel  Davies  and  the 
Queen.  There  is  also  the  Oshor7ic,  a  comfortable  house,  and  numerous 
smaller  hotels.  Their  coaches  meet  the  ti'ains  and  boats.  There  are 
no  horse-cars,  but  the  livery  charges  are  moderate.  The  steamer  St. 
Laivrc7ice,  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Co.,  plies  between  Char- 
lottetown and  I'ictou.  Tl.c  steamer  Carroll,  of  the  P.  E.  I.,  Halifax, 
and  Boston  Line,  leaves  once  a  week  for  Boston.  Fare,  |7.50.  The 
fortnightly  boat  of  the  Quej^ec  S.  S.  Co.  calls  here.  The  little  steamer 
Heather  Bell  leaves  Charlottetown  for  Ormll  every  Tuesday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Thursday.  The  JSon/h/iort  sails  to  Went  River  on  Tuesdays 
and  Fridays,  and  to  liockii  Point  every  day  but  Alondays  and  Thurs- 
days. The  steam-ferry  Eljin  })lies  between  Charlottetown  and  South- 
port  every  half-hour  from  5  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m. 

Charlottetown  lies  on  the  N.  shoi-e  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  Its 
harbor  is  capacious  and  secure,  and  is  formed  by  the  meeting  of  the 
Hillsborough,  York,  and  Elliott  Rivers,  more  generally  known  as  East, 
North,  and  West  Rivers.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  its  streets 
running  E.  and  W.,  and  intersected  by  streets  running  N.  and  S. 
There  are  4  large  stjuares,  and  the  broad  streets,  100  ft.  in  width,  seem 
a  shade  too  roomy  for  the  11,485  inhabitants.  For  the  most  part  the 
buildings  are  of  wood  and  entirely  unimposing,  but  the  Parliament 
HoiiHcs  occupy  a  handsome  stone  structure  on  Queen  Square,  at  the 
head  of  Great  George  St.   The  same  building  contains  the  good  collection 


196 


PRINCE   EDWARD   ISLAND. 


of  the  Legislative  Library.  From  its  cupola  may  l)e  liad  an  exceedingly 
attractive  and  commanding  view  of  the  city  and  its  siuToundings.  On 
the  same  square,  which  is  adorned  with  a  fountain  and  well  kept 
flower-beds,  and  where  the  band  plays  to  the  moving  crowd  on  summer 
evenings,  stands  the  handsome  new  stone  pile  of  the  I'ost-Office.  Near 
by  is  the  great  wooden  structure  of  the  Cit}i  Market,  which  looks  like 
a  weather-beaten  compromise  between  a  barn  and  a  country  meeting- 
house. It  is  the  thing  for  tourists  to  visit  this  building  on  market- 
days  in  the  morning,  when  they  will  see  some  quaint  (iaelic  and  Acadian 
types.  Around  this  square  cliiefly  congregate  the  shops  of  Charlotte- 
town.  Not  far  down  Great  George  St.  rises  the  roomy  Cathedral  of 
St.  Dunstan,  the  seat  of  the  Roman  Catholic  bishop.  On  Hillsborough 
Square,  farther  to  the  W.,  is  the  laige  brick  Convent  of  Notre  Dame, 
and  near  by  are  the  Normal  School  and  Prince  of  Wales  College,  In 
the  same  quarter  of  the  city  is  the  parade-ground,  between  Sidney  and 
Pownal  Sts.,  presided  over  by  the  barracks  and  drill-shed.  Still  far- 
ther W.,  on  a  projecting  point  of  land,  occupied  also  by  the  charming 
bit  of  woodland  called  the  Park,  the  cricket  and  foot-ball  field,  and  the 
delightful  lawn-tennis  grounds,  stands  the  Governmeni  House,  with  a 
lovely  ontlook  over  the  blue  and  quiet  waters  of  the  harbor.  Here  one 
realizes  that  contented  note  of  the  Charlottetown  landscape  which  led 
the  discoverers  of  the  haven  to  call  it  "Port  la  Joie."  There  is  capital 
lawn-tennis  and  foot-ball  playing  in  Charlottetown,  where  was  hold  the 
first  tournament  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  Lawn-Tennis  Association. 
Whether  the  city  be  found  a  pleasant  summer  resort  or  not  depends 
chiefly  on  the  visitors  themselves.  Charlottetown  society  is  found  ex- 
ceedingly charming  and  hospitable  by  those  who  go  there  duly  accred- 
ited. To  the  absolute  stranger  its  attractions  are  not  great,  for  there 
is  no  very  remarkable  scenery,  and,  away  from  the  chief  square,  the 
wide  streets  look  all  alike,  and  ail  equally  uninteresting.  One's  im- 
pressions of  the  city  may  be  marvelously  changed  by  one  or  two  letters 
of  introduction.  Outside  of  the  city,  and  overlookmg  it,  in  a  region  of 
pleasant  villas,  stand  the  Wesleyan  College  and  the  Roman  Catholic 
College  of  St.  Dunstan.  By  ferry  one  may  visit  the  pleasant  village  of 
Southport,  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the.  Hillsborough  River,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  which  is  the  alleged  height  called  Tea  Hill,  with  a 
sweet  pastoral  view  from  its  low  summit.  The  principal  summer  resort 
is  at  Grand  Tracadie  Beach,  1 3  miles  distant,  where  the  Hotel  Acadie 
is  open  during  the  season. 


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FKOM  CTIART.OTTKTOWN   EASTWARD. 


From  Charlottetown  eastward. 


197 


i 


From  Hoyalty  Jumtioii,  5  mllt's  out  of  Clmrlottctown,  the  traveler 
wlu)  wishes  to  do  tho  isliiiul  thoroiifjhly  niuy  take  the  trahi  t-aHtward. 
Tassinf^  the  little  stations  of  I'liion,  Vork,  Suffolk,  Bedford,  and  Tra- 
eadie,  alonj^  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Ilillsboroujjli  River,  we  come  to 
Mt.  Sfcwoft  jKiicdoti,  22  miles  from  the  city.  At  this  point  a  branch 
(liverj^es  southeastward,  21  miles  t>  (Jeor^rotown,  on  the  east  coast; 
while  the  main  lino  continues  along  the  north  shore  to  Souris,  whi  'i  is 
also  en  th(^  east  coast  some  2t>  miles  n(trth  of  (icorfietown.  From  Mt. 
Stewart  Junction,  a  thriviii<^  village  devoted  to  ship-buildinp;,  we  traverse 
n  rather  thinly-settled  country,  passing  the  stations  of  Pisquid,  Peake's, 
Baldwin,  and  IVrth,  till  we  come  to  the  village  of  Cardigan,  on  the 
head  of  Cardigan  Bay,  whence  the  high-road  leads  to  Vernon  River  and 
Pownal.  It  n>ay  Ite  said  here,  in  i)aieiitheses,  that  the  plcasantest  way  to 
get  to  Mt.  Stewart  Junction  is  by  tlie  little  steamer  Heather  Bell  from 
Charlottetown.  Cardigan  is  IS  miles  from  the  junction ;  and  6  miles 
farther,  running  (hjwn  the  long  promontory  between  Cardigan  Bay  and 
(Jeorgetown  Harbor,  we  come  to  (tcorijctown^  a  prosperous  village  of 
1,118  inhabitants,  with  a  large  shipping  trade  in  agricultural  produce. 
The  harbor  is  tlic  best  winter  port  on  the  island,  and  least  liable  to  ob- 
struction by  the  ice.  Steamers  from  Pictou  for  the  Magdalen  Islands 
call  here  on  their  way.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  and  ia  the  county 
seat  of  King's  Cctunty,  the  most  easterly  of  the  three  counties  into 
which  this  little  pi-ovince  is  divided.  At  the  head  of  the  harbor  flows 
in  the  Brudenelle  lliver.  The  chief  inn  of  Georgetown  is  the  Coni- 
■tiiercidl  Hotel. 

The  more  northern  line  to  Souris  reaches  Morell  Station  9  miles 
east  of  Mt,  Stewart.  This  is  a  fishing  village  on  the  little  Morell  River. 
Thence  the  lailway  skii-ts  St.  Petcr\s  Bati  for  7^  miles  to  the  village  of 
St.  Peter's,  the  chief  fishing  town  on  the  north  shore.  The  bay  is 
faiiKus  lor  its  valuable  salmon-lisberies,  and  has  been  already  referred 
to  as  the  best  place  (m  the  island  for  sea-trout.  Tourists  in  search  of 
this  sport  may  stay  at  the  little  inn  called  the  Prairie  Hotel,  or  they 
may  obtain  board  at  jirivate  houses.  The  bay  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water, 
more  than  7  miles  in  length,  but  its  usefulness  as  a  hatbor  is  somewhat 
impaired  by  the  fact  that  there  is  less  than  6  ft.  of  water  on  the  bar 
that  crosses  its  mouth.  Leaving  St.  Peter's  we  pass  the  stations  of 
Ashton,  Selkirk,  Bear  River,  New  Zealand,  and  Harmony,  whence  roads 


\i 


m 


198 


FROM   OHARLOTTETOWN   KASTWAKD. 


i 


lead  inland  Hoiilhwcatwnrd  to  the  (Jaclic  sottl(>incnts  of  Annandiile, 
DouglnH,  and  Biiilpotown,  on  Gnind  River,  where  one  may  study  some 
quaint  old  customs  and  a  life  that  preserves  its  indivldiuility  with  {;reat 
porsistent'c.  Sonris  itself,  S  miles  beyond  Harmony,  is  a  (Jaelic  villa<;e 
of  700  inhabitants,  devoted  to  fisliini;  anil  ship-biiildinf;.  Its  harbor, 
Colville  Hay,  is  protected  by  a  breakwater.  The  village  carries  on  an 
extensive  trade  with  the  French  island  of  St.  IHerre^  off  the  coast  of 
Newfoundland.  Not  far  from  Souris  lie  the  shallow  coast  pools  of 
East  and  North  Lakes ;  and  beyond,  the  island  runs  off  to  a  beacon- 
guarded  termination  at  East  Point. 

At  Souris  or  (Jeorgetown  one  may  take  the  steamer  Si,  Ola/tor  the 
Maiafdaleii  Tsland$4,  if  the  attractions  of  ren  ')tencss  and  sea-trout 
fishing  prevail.  The  St.  Olaf  leaves  J'irtnn,  N.  S.,  every  Monday  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Halifax  express,  and  calls  at  Georgetown  and  Souris. 
The  fare  from  Georgetown  is  '^i.  The  Magdalen  Islands  are  a  group 
of  thirteen,  most  of  them  connected  by  sand-Sf>its  bare  at  low  tide. 
They  lie  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  between  Prince  Edward  Island 
and  the  west  coast  of  Newfoundland,  about  50  miles  from  East  Point, 
already  mentioned.  The  chief  island  is  called  Amhrrst,  and  this 
island,  with  Alright,  (Jrindstone,  and  Entry  L^lands,  partially  incloses  a 
roadstead  in  which  the  fleets  of  the  gulf,  caught  in  this  neighborhood 
in  a  gale,  take  refuge.  The  islands,  however,  have  no  liarbors  proper 
that  are  safely  accessible  in  a  storm,  and  they  arc  a  good  place  to  keep 
away  from  in  bad  weather.  Their  shores  arc  lined  with  wrecks.  In 
the  dreadful  "  Lord's  Day  Gale,"  celebrated  in  Stedman's  noble  ballad, 
the  loss  of  life  about  the  Magdalens  was  appalling.  Out  to  sea,  off  the 
west  of  Amherst,  lies  the  dread  rock  of  Deadman's  Isle,  mentioned 
in  Tom  Moore's  lines : 

"  To  Deadman's  Isle  in  the  eye  of  the  blast, 
To  Deadman's  Isle  she  speeds  her  fast ; 
By  skeleton  shapes  her  sails  are  furled, 
And  the  hand  that  steers  is  not  of  this  world." 

Off  to  the  north  lie  the  most  outlying  members  of  the  group,  Bryon 
Island,  rivaling  Perce  Rock  as  a  nesting-place  for  sea-birds,  and  the 
two  desolate  Bird  Rocks.  On  one  of  these,  which  carries  a  powerful 
light,  placed  there  with  great  expense  and  peril  by  the  Canadian  Gov- 
ernment, a  landing  is  effected  only  by  means  of  a  great  swinging  crane 
projecting  from  the  cliff,  on  which  visitors  are  hoisted  in  a  cradle.  One 
of  the  most  important  and  central  islands  of  the  group  is  called  Coffin 


FROM   CIIAHLOTTETOWN   EASTWARD. 


199 


Island — not  from  Its  shape  or  any  sinister  association,  but  in  honor  of 
Admiral  Sir  Isaac  Coifin,  to  whom,  in  1798,  the  islands  were  granted 
in  fee  simple,  and  whose  heir.  Admiral  Coffin,  now  holds  them.  The 
population  of  the  islands  is  now  a  little  over  3,000,  mostly  Acadian 
French,  and  all  are  tenants  of  Admiral  Coffin,  who  exacts  the  heavy 
rent  of  one  shilling  per  acre,  paysihlc  at  the  convenience  of  the  occupant. 
The  islands  lie  within  the  province  of  (Quebec.  A  perfect  view  of  them 
may  be  had  from  the  summit  of  Entry  Island,  580  ft.  above  the  sea. 

The  Magdalens  are  visited  by  few  tourists,  and  those  few  have  to 
put  up  with  somewhat  primitive  though  always  hospitable  entertain- 
ment. Among  the  islands  one  may  enjoy  the  finest  of  soa-trout  fish- 
ing ;  and  in  the  small  brooks,  which  constitute  the  islanders'  rivers,  one 
may  catch  magnificent  trout,  that  look  strangely  out  of  proportion  to 
the  waters  they  fre(juent.  During  the  cod  and  mackerel  seasons  the 
island  waters  are  thronged  with  American  and  Canadian  fishing-fleets, 
and  patrolled  by  the  Dominion  cutter  La  Canadienne  to  prevent  foreign 
boats  from  fishing  within  the  three-mile  limits.  In  winter  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  is  seal-fishing,  a  perilous  business,  in  which 
some  lives  are  lost  every  season.  The  seals  are  swept  upon  the  shores 
on  fields  of  ice  drifting  down  from  the  N. ;  and  sometimes  the  ice- 
fields drift  away  again,  when  the  wind  changes,  carrying  with  them 
some  of  the  too-venturous  hunters. 

The  Magdalens  have,  perhaps,  the  best  lobster-grounds  on  the  con- 
tinent, and  the  canning  establishments  there  do  an  immense  business. 
The  chief  village  is  on  Amherst  Island,  fronting  on  Pleasant  Bay,  and 
contains  the  uhimposing  public  buildings.  Overlooking  the  settlement 
is  a  conical  height  called  "  La  Demoiselle,"  from  whose  peak  one  sees 
a  broad  and  varied  panorama.  The  prominent  landmarks  of  the  group, 
besides  this  hill  and  the  islands  already  described,  are  the  striking  emi- 
nences of  Cap  de  Meule,  Le  Vieux,  and  fa  Vieille.  The  sand-beaches 
connecting  the  islands  are  at  times  very  dangerous  from  shifting  quick- 
sands. In  places  the  sand  is  covered  with  water  to  a  depth  of  several 
feet,  and  the  fordable  spots  are  marked  out  by  scant  rows  of  saplings 
stuck  insecurely  into  the  bottom.  The  connnunication  between  the 
islands  by  these  beaches  is  perilous  and  often  impossible  when  the 
wind  is  strong.  The  group  is  connected  with  the  outer  world  by  a  sub- 
marine cable  running  to  Prince  Edward  Island ;  but  this  institution 
does  not  seem  to  meet  with  much  patronage,  and  Mr.  S.  G.  W.  Benja- 
min, in  an  entertaining  paper  on  the  Magdalens,  in  the  Century  Maga- 


m 


I- 


.iJ' 


I'll 


V  I'i 


200 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 


zinc  for  May,  1884,  tells  that  at  the  time  of  his  visit  the  operator  was 
away  enjoying  an  extended  vacation  on  the  mainland  while  the  cable 
rested  unused.  (Mr.  Bcnjannn's  book,  "  The  Cruise  of  the  Alice  May," 
which  describes  a  voyage  around  the  coast  of  the  Maritime  Provinces 
and  the  outlying  islands,  is  published  by  D.  Appleton  &  Co.)  On  the 
Magdalens  is  situated  a  large  nunnery,  whose  occupants  doubtless  find 
there  the  ideal  of  cloistral  seclusion. 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 

The  province  of  Nova  Scotia  consists  of  the  storied  peninsula  of 
Old  Acadie  and  the  hland  of  Cape  Breton.  It  is  the  most  easterly 
province  of  the  Dominion,  and  is  connected  with  New  Brunswick  by 
the  Isthmus  of  ChignectOy  already  described.  Its  length  is  300  miles, 
its  extreme  breadth  100,  and  its  coast-line  is  deeply  indented  by  bays 
and  roomy  harbors.  Its  rivers,  of  which  the  more  important  are  the 
Liverpool,  La  Hav^,  Shubenacadic,  Avon,  and  Annapolis,  are  not  of 
great  length,  but  are  important  on  account  of  their  large  estuaries. 
The  surface  of  the  province  is  diversified  by  long,  parallel  ranges  of 
hills  and  valleys  running  E.  and  W.  No  other  part  of  Canada  can 
surpass  this  province  in  the  variety  and  abundance  of  its  natural  re- 
sources. In  regard  to  soil  and  climate  its  agricultural  districts  are  not 
excelled  by  the  most  favored  portions  of  Ontario.  It  has  immense 
lumbering,  fishing,  and  ship-building  interests.  Its  coal,  gold,  iron, 
and  plaster  mines  are  famous  the  worl'.  over.  Other  mineral  prod- 
ucts of  Nova  Scotia  are  silver,  tin,  zinc,  copper,  manganese,  graphite, 
granite,  marble,  limestone,  grindstones ;  and  the  province  also  pro- 
duces good  specimens  of  garnet,  amethyst,  topaz,  opal,  cairngorm, 
agate,  heliotrope,  jaspci-,  and  chalcedony.  The  forests  are  still  fairly 
stocked  with  large  and  small  game ;  and  the  province  contains  many 
excellent  trout  and  salmon  waters,  though  in  this  respect  it  hardly 
competes  with  New  Brunswick.  The  population  of  Nova  Scotia  in  1891 
was  450,396. 

In  historic  associations  Nova  Scotia  is  not  less  richly  furnished 
than  Quebec.  It  was  visited  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  eleventh  century, 
and  rediscovered  by  Sebastian  Cabot  in  1498.  Attempts  were  made 
to  colonize  the  country  by  France  in  1518;  and  by  Portugal  between 
1520  and  1530,  when  a  royal  commission  was  given  to  Joan  Alvarez 


bed 


een 
irez 


;  I'!    ( 


13 
S 

e 


I 


:*■ 


o 
« 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 


201 


Pagundez,  and  two  ships  sailed  to  Cape  Breton  with  colonists.  The 
earliest  approximately  correct  map  of  Nova  Scotia  is  that  of  a  Portu- 
guese, Diego  Homera,  and  bears  date  of  1568.  The  Portuguese  were 
not  very  successful  in  their  colonizing  efforts,  but  they  did  succeed  in 
colonizing  with  cattle  and  swine  the  dreadful  sand-bank  of  Sable 
Island,  off  the  S.  E.  coast  of  Nova  Scotia — a  deed  for  which  'n  later 
years  many  a  shipwrecked  seaman  has  had  cause  to  remember  them 
with  gratitude.  In  such  names  as  Bloinidon,  Minus,  Bay  of  Fuudy 
(Baya  Fondo),  and  others,  the  Portuguese  have  left  on  these  coasts 
the  memory  of  their  explorations.  The  name  of  Acadie  itself  is  a 
Micraac  word,  meaning  "  a  region  of  plenty  " — and  is  the  same  as  the 
Melicite  word  "  Quoddy."  Shubenacadie  means  "  a  place  of  plenty  of 
ground-nuts,"  just  as  Passamaquoddy  means  a  place  of  plenty  of  had- 
dock. The  influence  of  the  French  soon  became  dominant  in  these 
regions,  and  they  adopted  the  Micmac  name,  which  was  anglicized  by 
the  English  claimants  into  Acadia.  The  first  successful  settlement  in 
Acadie  was  that  planted  in  1605  at  Port  Royal,  by  Champlain,  after 
his  winter  of  horroi's  at  the  St.  Croix  mouth.  Unique  and  interesting, 
though  a  most  disa.  trous  failure,  was  the  colonizing  enterprise  of  Mar- 
quis de  la  Roche  in  1698.  Of  this  attempt  the  theatre  was  Sable 
Island,  which,  as  it  is  more  interesting  to  read  about  than  to  visit,  may 
be  referred  to  here.  As  its  name  implies,  this  island  is  a  bank  of 
sand,  a  deposit  of  the  drift  of  meeting  currents.  It  lies  90  miles  S.  E. 
of  Nova  Scotia,  and  is  the  center  of  fogs  and  fiercest  storms.  Its 
shape  is  roughly  that  of  a  crescent,  22  miles  long  by  2  wide,  and  a 
shallow  pool  divides  it  from  end  to  end.  Its  positicm  is  shifting  grad- 
ually eastward,  and  the  dreadful  wrecks  of  which  it  is  from  time  to 
time  the  scene  have  won  it  the  name  of  the  "Charnel-house  of  North 
America."  De  la  Roche,  being  made  Viceroy  of  Canada  and  Acadie, 
set  sail  for  his  new  dominions  with  a  ship-load  of  convicts  for  colon •.rts. 
Approaching  the  Acadian  coasts  he  conceived,  in  his  prudence,  the 
design  of  landing  his  dangerous  charge  upon  the  Isle  of  Sable,  till  he 
might  go  and  prepare  for  them,  on  the  mainland,  a  place  of  safety. 
The  40  convicts,  selected  from  the  chief  prisons  of  France,  were  lavded 
through  the  uproar  of  the  surf,  and  the  ship  made  haste  away  from  the 
perilous  shore.  But  she  came  not  back  again !  De  !a  Roche  reached 
Acadie,  chose  a  site  for  his  settlement,  and  set  out  for  the  island  to 
fetch  his  expectant  colonists.  But  a  great  gale  swept  him  back  to 
France  and  drove  him  upon  the  Breton  coast,  where  the  Duke  de  Mer- 


202 


NOVA   SCOTIA. 


ca>ur,  at  that  time  warrinj*  nj^ainst  the  king,  seized  liim,  cast  him  into 
prison,  and  hehl  him  dose  for  five  years.  Meanwhile  those  left  on  the 
island  were  delighted  enough.  They  were  free,  and  began  to  forget 
the  scourge  and  chain.  IJe.side  the  unstable  hiunmocks  and  hills  of 
sand  they  found  a  shallow  lake  of  sweet  waters,  the  shores  of  which 
were  clothed  luxuriantly  with  long  grass,  and  lentils,  and  vines  of 
vetch.  Lurking  in  any  or  every  portion  of  the  grass-plain  were  little 
cup-liko  hollows,  generally  filled  with  clear  water.  Every  such  pool, 
like  the  lake,  was  alive  with  ducks  and  other  water-fowl,  among  which 
the  joyous  ex-convicts  created  consternation.  There  were  wild  cattle 
also,  trooping  and  lowing  among  the  sand-hills  or  feeding  belly-doep  in 
the  rank  water-grasses;  while  herds  of  wild  hogs,  introduced  years  be- 
fore by  the  Portuguese,  disputed  the  shallow  pools  with  the  mallard 
and  teal.  The  weather  for  a  while  kept  fine,  and  the  winds  compara- 
tively temperate,  and  the  sojourners  held  a  carnival  of  liberty  and  in- 
dolence. Hut  this  was  not  for  long,  and  as  the  skies  grew  harsher 
their  plight  grew  harder.  As  the  weeks  slipped  into  months  they  grew 
first  im{)atient,  then  solicitous,  then  despairing,  TFieir  provisions  fell 
low,  and  at  last  the  truth  was  staring  them  in  the  face — they  were  de- 
serted. From  the  wrecks  upon  the  shore  they  built  themselves  at  first 
a  rude  shelter,  which  the  increasing  cold  and  storms  soon  drove  them 
to  perfect  with  their  most  cunning  skill.  As  their  stores  diminished, 
they  looked  on  greedily  and  glared  at  each  other  with  jealous  eyes. 
Soon  (piarrels  broke  out  with  but  little  provocation,  and  were  settled 
by  the  knife  with  such  fatal  frequency  that  the  members  of  the  colony 
shrank  apace.  As  they  had  been  provided  with  no  means  of  lighting 
fires,  they  soon  had  to  live  on  the  raw  Hesh  of  the  wild  cattle,  and  little 
by  little  they  learned  the  lesson,  and  began  to  relish  such  fare.  Little 
by  little,  too,  as  their  garments  fell  to  pieces,  they  replaced  them  with 
skins  of  tcliie  seals  that  swarmed  about  the  beach ;  and  their  hut  they 
lined  with  twles  from  the  cattle  they  had  slaughtered.  As  the  months 
became  years  their  deadly  contests  ceased,  but  exposure,  and  frost,  and 
hunger,  and  ilisease  kfpt  thinning  their  ranks.  They  occupied  them- 
selves in  pursuing  the  seal  for  its  skin,  the  walrus  for  its  ivory.  They 
had  gathered  a  gri'at  store  of  sealskins,  ivory,  and  hides,  but  now  only 
twelve  men  remained  to  possess  these  riches.  Their  beards  had  grown 
to  their  waists,  theii-  skins  were  like  the  furs  that  covered  ihei.-,  their 
nails  were  like  biids'  claws,  theii'  eyes  gleamed  with  a  sort  of  shy 
ferocity  through  the  long,  matted  tangle  of  their  hair.     At  last,  from 


Nt>VA   SCOTIA* 


^03 


out  of  his  prison,  De  la  Roche  f^ot  word  to  the  kinp,  telling  him  of  their 
misenible  fortune,  and  a  ship  was  at  once  sent  out  to  rescue  them. 

In  1621  the  territory  of  Acadia,  then  named  by  the  English  Nova 
Scotia,  was  granted  to  Sir  William  Alexander;  and  a  year  or  two  later 
was  created  the  order  of  "  Knights  Baronets  of  Nova  Scotia,"  each  of 
whom  received  a  gi-ant  of  18  scjuare  miles  of  territory. 

In  1632  Nova  Scotia  was  relinquished  to  France  and  fell  a  prey  to 
the  struggles  between  La  Tour  and  Cliarnisay,  already  referred  to.  In 
1654  it  was  again  captured  by  England,  but  soon  reverted  to  France. 
In  1690  it  was  captured  and  overi'un  by  New-Englanders,  after  hav- 
ing been  raised  into  a  populous  colony  by  the  forty  years'  rule  of  the 
(^Mipany  of  New  France.  In  1697  it  was  again  restored  to  the  French. 
Massachusetts  sent  out  unsuccessful  expeditions  against  the  Acadian 
strongholds  in  1*703  and  1  TO?,  and  succeeded  in  her  design  at  last  in 
1710;  and  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht,  in  1713,  the  country  was  finally 
ceded  to  England.  These  struggles  and  interchanges  went  on  with  the 
accompaniment  of  iiniunjerable  romantic  and  heroic  episodes,  which 
make  the  annals  of  Nova  Scotia  an  especially  interesting  field  of  study. 
In  1749  was  founded  the  city  of  Halifax.  The  forty  years  intervening 
between  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  and  the  expulsion  of  the  Acadians,  in 
1755,  were  marked  by  intei-nal  disorders,  conflict,  and  bloodshed,  the 
result  of  the  Acadian  and  Indian  hostility  to  English  rule. 

The  tragedy  of  1755  will  be  referred  to  more  fully  in  connection 
with  the  description  of  Grand  Pre.  In  17H3  the  po[)ulation  of  the 
pi'ovincc  was  increased  by  the  immigration  of  20,000  United  Empire 
Loyalists ;  and  in  the  following  year  two  new  j)rovinces  were  erected 
out  of  portions  of  Nova  Scotia  territory — (me  of  them,  New  Bruns- 
wick, i)ermanently,  and  the  other  ('ape  Breton,  as  it  proved,  but  tem- 
porarily. During  the  War  of  1H12  Nova  Scotia  suffered  from  the 
depredations  of  American  privateers.  In  1867  the  province  joined 
with  Quebec,  Ontario,  and  New  Brunswick  to  form  the  confederation 
known  as  the  Dominion  of  t'anada. 


I*; 


only 
^rown 

their 
f  siiy 

from 


To  Pictou  and  Antigonish. 

From  Charlottetown  to  Pictou  by  boat  is  a  thoroughly  delightful 
sail  of  about  50  miles.  The  fare  is  ^2.  As  we  approach  Pictou  Har- 
bor we  pass  the  farms,  lighthouse,  and  wooded  hills  of  Pictou  Island, 
and  more  remote  the  group  of  isles  and  sand-beaches  known  as  Caribou 
Island.    Sailing  up  the  harbor  we  get  a  thoroughly  satisfactory  view  of 


204 


TO   PICTOU   AND   ANTIOONISII. 


this  noble  water,  whose  high  and  varied  sliores,  well  populated  In  al- 
most every  direetion,  give  it  the  charm  of  plcturesquenoss,  and  whose 
safe  and  commodious  anchorage  constitutes  it  the  best  haven  on  the 
north  coast  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  town  of  Pictou  is  handsomely 
situated  on  a  hill-side  overlooking  the  harbor.  Its  site  was  of  old 
occupied  by  a  town  of  the  Micmacs,  who  called  the  i)lace  "  Pik-took," 
from  the  gases  escaping  from  the  coal-beds  underlying  the  harbor. 
The  neighborhood  is  rich  in  legends  of  Gluskap,  the  Micmae  demigod, 
who  halted  here  on  his  journey  to  Newfoundland  to  punish  the  wizards 
of  that  island  who  had  slain  his  servants.  Here,  too,  took  place  some 
sanguinary  battles  between  the  Micmaes  and  the  Mohawks,  and  to  this 
day  the  name  of  the  latter  is  a  terror  to  the  Indians  of  Pictou.  The 
first  settlement  r.t  ilils  point  was  begun  in  1767  by  a  small  party  of 
Philadelphians.  !t  is  said  that  Franklin  was  interested  in  the  enter- 
prise; which,  hi i^v'vir,  n)ade  but  sorry  progress  till  the  arrival  of  a 
body  of  Seoteh  llig  danders  in  1773.  The  ultimate  success  of  these 
immigrants  at  tract  ♦■:  many  more  of  the  same  race;  and  these  colonists, 
being  inter;  ^el)  loval,  gradually  crowded  out  the  first  settlers,  whose 
sympathies  were  vvitl!  Ihe  Thirteen  Colonies  during  the  American  War 
of  Independence,  i  iie  town  was  founded  in  1788;  and  between  1805 
and  1820,  when  the  Baltic  ports  were  closed  against  Great  Britain, 
Pictou  made  great  progress  as  a  lumbering  and  ship-building  port. 
Thereafter  the  development  of  the  coal  industry,  of  which  Pictou 
County  is  one  of  the  chief  centers  on  the  continent,  continued  the  era 
of  prosperity.  At  present,  though  Pictou  has  considerable  wealth,  and 
some  mills  and  factories  to  depend  upon  besides  her  shipping  interests, 
the  town  is  not  making  much  progress,  and  stands  at  a  ))opulation  of 
between  3,000  and  4,000,  much  of  her  business  being  appropriated  by 
her  bustling  young  rival.  New  Glasgow.  Pictou  has  some  line  public 
buildings,  prominent  among  which  is  that  of  the  I'ivUm  Acadcmi/,  con- 
taining a  fine  library  and  museum.  This  institution  has  played  a  most 
important  part  in  the  education  of  the  province,  and  coutits  among  its 
graduates  some  of  the  most  distinguished  of  \  .aiad'/Uis — among  them 
President  Sir  William  Dawson,  of  Mc(«ill  Uiaversity,  and  Prineipal 
Grant,  of  Queen's  University.  The  Young  Met'-  Christian  Association 
Building  attracts  attention,  and  the  spiritual  nee<ls  of  the  towns-folk 
are  supplied  by  a  round  half-dozen  churches.  Around  the  shore  of  the 
harbor,  opposite  Pictou,  are  the  huge,  ))lack  whai-ves  of  the  various 
coal-mining  companies.    About  the  same  point  the  harbor  branches 


"m 


TO   PIOTOU    AND    ANTIfJONISH. 


205 


mg  its 

them 

liicipal 

biation 

is-folk 

)f  the 

irious 

Inches 


into  three  arms,  the  estuaries  of  East,  West,  and  Middle  Rivers.  The 
town  is  a  pleasant  place  to  visit  in  the  summer,  having  excellent  boat- 
ing and  sea-bathinc,  lawn-tennis,  some  pleasant  society,  and  one  com- 
fortable hotel,  the  Revere  House. 

From  Pictou  the  railway  runs  around  the  north  of  the  harbor  14 
miles  to  StcUarton,  where  it  connects  with  the  Halifax  to  Sydney  Line 
of  the  Intercolonial  R.  R.  Stellarton  is  a  thriving  but  dingy  town  of 
2,500  inhabitants,  and  has  grown  up  about  the  famous  Albion  Coal  and 
Iron  Mines.  No  one  stops  at  Stellarton  if  he  can  help  it ;  for  2  miles 
eastward  by  rail  is  the  energetic  and  growing  town  of  New  Glasffoto, 
with  a  population  of  between  4,000  and  5,000,  and  three  fairly  com- 
fortable hotels  styled  the  Winekor,  the  Norfolk,  and  the  Vcndome. 
New  (xlasgow  is  a  great  ship-building  and  coal-mining  center,  and  is 
rapidly  developing  a  large  manufacturing  interest.  It  has  tanneries 
and  foundries,  and  has  lately  started,  under  most  favorable  auspices, 
extensive  steel  and  ,<;;la8s  vOrks.  (Jood  public  buildings  are  rapidly 
going  up,  and  everything  points  to  a  most  prosperous  future  for  the 
town.  A  coal  railway  runs  down  the  south  of  the  harbor  to  the  coal 
wharves  and  ferry  opposite  Pictou,  At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  a 
draw-bridge  ciosses  the  East  River,  here  a  narrow  stream,  which  the 
citizens  of  New  Glasgow  ])ro:  ose  to  make  the  Clyde  of  Canada.  Up 
its  northern  shore  runs  for  a  short  distance,  to  the  Albion  Mines,  a 
quaint  ruilway,  the  oldest  in  America.  The  massive  old  rust-eaten 
rails  are  of  a  very  curious  pattern ;  but  such  is  the  excellence  of  their 
construction  that  thoy  still  do  their  work. 

The  eastern  extension  of  the  I.  C.  R.,  running  to  Mulgrave  on  the 
Strait  of  Canso,  has  been  still  farther  extended  to  run  through  Cape 
Breton.  Betwei'u  New  (Jlasgow,  which  we  leave  at  about  noon,  and 
Antic/onish,  a  distance  of  41  miles,  we  get  some  occasional  bits  of. 
good  scenery ;  but  the  nine  intervening  stations  are  of  little  inter- 
est. A  prosperous  sliip-building  village  is  Merigomish,  14  miles  from 
New  Glasgow,  with  valuable  eoal  and  iron  mines,  and  a  fine  harbor. 
Another  of  tliese  stiitlciis  is  somewhat  interesting,  on  account  of  its 
quaint  name  of  Marshy  Hope.  As  we  near  Antigonish,  descending 
through  the  passes  of  the  surrounding  hills,  the  scene  changes. 
Antig(mish  is  a  beautiful,  clean,  little  pastoral  town,  set  in  a  broad 
green  ann)hitheatre,  whose  meadow  floor  is  watered  by  a  pleasant 
river.  Its  beauty  of  surroundings  is  of  the  restful,  quiet  kind,  but 
undeniably   worthy  of  prtjise.     There  are   pretty  drives  among  the 


'il 


206 


TO   PICTOII    AND   ANTIOONIsn. 


(  j 


hilli<,  the  summer  climate  is  not  to  be  surpassed,  and  though  there 
are  no  very  exciting  diversions,  the  town  must  be  set  down  as  a  really 
delightful  retreat  for  the  summer  traveler  who  desires  nothing  but 
unrestricted  lotus-eating.  Tiii'  village  inns  are  comfortable,  home-like 
country  boarding-houses,  rather  than  hotels ;  and  there  is  pleasant 
society  to  be  met  in  this  remote  corner  of  the  province. 

Antigonish  is  the  shire  town  of  Antigonish  County.  It  stands  at 
the  head  of  a  wide,  shallow  harbor  opening  into  St.  George's  Bay.  It 
has  a  populati(m  of  a  little  less  than  2,0(M>,  and  carries  on  an  extensive 
trade  in  agricultural  produce  with  Newfoundland.  It  also  ships  quan- 
tities of  gypsum.  The  country  is  settled  by  a  thrifty  farming  popula- 
tion of  Celtic  Highlanders.  Antigonish  is  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
bishopric,  of  the  fine  now  Cathedra/  of  St.  N'mian  (a  striking  structure 
of  blue  limestone  dressed  with  brick,  consecrated  in  1874,  and  carrying 
on  the  fa9ade  the  inscription  "  Tighe  Dhe,"  which  is  Gaelic  for  "The 
House  of  God  ").  The  sermons  in  the  cathedral  are  frequently  preached 
in  Gaelic.  Near  the  cathedral  is  the  imposing  pile  of  St.  Francis  Xavier 
College,  a  prosperous  Koman  Catholic  institution  under  the  presidency 
of  Dr.  McNeill.  Close  by  is  the  building  occupied  by  the  Girls'  School, 
which  is  managed  by  nuns  of  a  Montreal  Sisterhood.  Quiet  as  the  vil- 
lage is,  it  practically  m()no[)olizes  the  whole  sufjply  trade  of  the  country, 
and  hence  supports  some  large  shops  which  would  do  credit  to  places 
with  thrice  the  population.  In  the  country  about  Antigonish,  accessible 
by  stage  or  carriage,  the  most  interesting  points  to  visit  are  the  Anti- 
gonish Mountains,  thrusting  their  lofty  line  15  miles  out  into  the  gulf; 
Cape  St.  George  ;  and  the  romantic  vilhige  of  Celtic  Highlanders  known 
as  Arisaig,  behind  whose  long  wooden  pier  vessels  seek  shelter  in  some 
winds,  there  being  no  harbor  on  this  coast  between  Antigonish  and 
Merigomish. 

Leaving  Antigonish  we  pass  the  stations  of  South  River,  Taylor's 
Road,  Pomquet,  and  come  to  the  prosperous  settlement  of  Heatherton, 
whence  a  stage  line  runs  20  miles  to  Guysboro.  The  third  station  be- 
yond Heatherton  is  yet  another  Tracndk,  a  very  interesting  Acadian 
settlement  20  miles  from  Antigonish.  Here  is  situated  a  monastery  of 
Trappist  monks,  and  also  a  convent  occupied  by  Sisters  of  Charity.  The 
third  station  beyond  Tracadie  is  Harbor  au  Bouche,  another  Acadian 
settlement,  and  10  miles  beyond,  80  miles  from  New  Glasgow,  the 
train  stops  at  Mulgrave  on  the  Strait  of  Canso.  On  the  other  side  lies 
the  wild  and  lovely  land  of  Cape  Breton. 


TO   PICTOU    AND   ANTIGONISH. 


207 


sH 


Cape  Breton. 

The  island  of  Cape  Breton  forms  a  portion  of  the  province  of 
Nova  Scotia.  Its  extronie  lengtli  is  about  \0i)  miles,  its  width  85  nnles, 
and  its  population  in  1891  was  84,854.  It  is  marvelous  for  the  di- 
versity of  its  scenery,  being  a  very  chaos  of  mountains,  lakes,  streams, 
and  deep  bays,  and  a  sportsman's  paradise.  The  island  is  all  but  split 
in  two  from  end  to  end  by  the  strange  lake-like  inlet  of  the  liras 
d^Or  ;  and  the  division  is  completed  l>y  a  ship-canal  half  a  mile  long 
connecting  the  inner  extremity  of  the  Hras  d'Or  with  St.  Peter's  Bay 
on  the  W.  coast.  The  two  divisions  of  the  island  thus  formed  are  ex- 
tremely dissniiilar,  the  southern  portion  being  low  and  much  broken  by 
the  sea,  and  the  northern  portion  very  mountainous  and  bold.  The 
valleys  and  plains  are  fertile,  the  coast  waters  rich  in  fish,  the  forests 
support  a  large  shif)-buildlng  industry,  and,  most  important  of  all,  the 
coal-mines  are  among  the  very  best  in  the  world.  Besides  its  vast 
coal  deposits.  Cape  Breton  produces  marble,  granite,  limestone,  slate, 
gypsum,  iron,  and  salt.  Its  position  makes  it  the  key  to  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  a  consideration  which  led  France  to  cling  tenacioiisly  to  its 
possession  when  yielding  uj)  the  Acadian  Peninsula.  Its  delicious  and 
invigorating  summer  climate,  added  to  its  other  attractions,  make  it  one 
of  the  pleasantest  places  in  Canada  for  summer  wanderings. 

The  island  takes  its  name  from  a  cape  on  its  east  coast,  which  was 
called  in  honor  of  its  Breton  discoverers.  It  was  renamed  Isle  Royale 
by  the  French  in  171^,  and  on  the  cession  of  Nova  Scotia  to  England 
its  population  was  swelled  by  the  influx  of  Aeadians  who  refused  to 
live  under  English  rule.  In  1714  was  built  the  strong  fortress  of  Lou- 
isburg ;  and  for  the  next  fifty  years  the  story  of  the  island  is  one  of 
perpetual  hostilities  between  the  English  on  one  hand  and  the  French 
with  their  Indian  allies  on  the  other,  culminating  in  the  second  and 
final  capture  of  Louisburg  and  the  utter  destruction  of  the  fortress  in 
July,  1758.  In  1765  Cape  Breton  was  annexed  to  Nova  Scotia.  It 
was  made  a  separate  i)rovince  in  1784,  but  was  reannexed  in  1820. 
Its  population  is  almost  entirely  Celtic,  being  made  up  of  Scotch  High- 
landers and  Acadian  French. 

Cape  Breton  may  be  visited  by  boat  up  the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes, 
by  the  railway,  or  by  boat  from  Halifax.  Mulgrave,  already  re- 
ferred to,  is  a  fishing  village  of  about  500  iidiabitants,  in  the  moun- 
tainous, gold-produciug  county  of  Guysboro.     It  has  a  harbor  open 


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208 


TO   PICTOU   AND    AN'llOONISH. 


the  year  round,  and  is  connected  with  Hftwliesbury  by  a  steam-ferry. 
The  latter  is  a  growing  village  of  perhaps  1,100  inhabitants,  and  good 
prospects  for  more.  The  steamships  plying  between  Boston  and  Char- 
lottetown  call  at  Hawkesbury. 


r^  !i 


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Tlirough  the  Bras  d'Or  Waters  to  Sydney. 

From  the  noble  pasHage  called  the  gut  or  Strait  of  Canso  we  may 
go  by  boat  or  stage  through  Cape  Breton.  The  railway  from  Point 
Tapper,  opposite  Mulgrnvu,  tc  Sydney  and  Louisburg  has  just  been 
opened.  It  has  a  length  of  91  miles,  through  much  noble  scenery, 
and  over  one  trcctle,  that  crossing  McDonald's  (Julch,  which  has  the 
distinction  of  beii.  the  second  longest  in  Canada.  But  the  traveler, 
if  traveling  for  pleasure,  will  probably  prefer  the  absolutely  unique 
sea-voyage  through  the  windless  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or. 

The  daily  steamers  from  Port  Mulgrave  touch  at  Orandigue,  where 
passengers  for  Arichat  disembark;  also  at  St.  Peter''Sy  Grand  Narrows, 
and  Baddeck.  The  fare  to  Baddeck  is  |2 ;  return,  |3.50.  The  fare 
to  Sydney  is  $3  ;  return,  $5.  From  Mulgrave  the  course  is  eastward 
through  the  Strait  to  Isle  Madame,  an  island  some  16  miles  long  by 
6  miles  in  width,  peopled  by  Acadians.  The  steamer  traverses  the 
picturesque  strait  called  Lennox  Pasm^\",  which  separates  Isle  Madame 
from  the  main  island.  Av'rhat,  the  chief  village  on  Isle  Madame,  lies 
on  the  seaward  side,  and  is  an  important  fishing  station,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  between  1,100  and  1,200.  The  town  is  the  county-seat  of 
Richmond  County,  and  does  a  largfj  business  for  a  place  of  its  size. 
^t  is  also  to  some  extent  an  educirtional  center,  having  successful 

'  imies  for  boys  and  girls.  There  are  other  busy  little  villages  on 
I. !        idame. 

aving  Lennox  Passage  we  run  up  St.  Pcter^s  Bay,  whose  head  is 
b-'parated  from  St.  Peter'' s  Inlet,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  waters,  by  a  narrow 
isthmus  with  the  once  appropriate  name  of  "  Tlic  Haulover.''^  Through 
this  isthmus  has  lately  been  cut  a  canal  of  I'bout  half  a  mile  in  length, 
which  has  made  the  Bras  d'Or  route  by  fai*  the  most  desirable  for 
Cape  Breton  travelers.  The  village  of  St.  Peter's,  with  its  population 
of  about  1,100,  mostly  Scotch,  was  founded  as  long  ago  as  1636  by 
the  illustrious  Frenchman  M.  Denys.  Throughout  all  its  early  history 
it  was  a  place  of  importance,  and  well  fortified.  Through  the  eighteenth 
century  it  went  by  th^  name  of  Port  Toulouse,  and  was  a  center  of  the 


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23  WEST  MAIN  :.TREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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THEOUGII  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATEES  TO  SYDNEY.      209 


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fur-trade.  Off  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  Inlet  is  a  group  of  islands  oc- 
cupied by  the  Micmac  Indians.  On  the  largest  of  these  islands  is  held 
a  grand  Indian  festival  every  Ste.  Anne's  Day,  at  which  many  curious 
ceremonies  are  observed.    The  celebrations  are  well  worth  a  visit. 

Leaving  St.  Peter's  Inlet  we  arc  on  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake, 
which  Mr.  Warner  calls  "  the  most  beautiful  salt-water  lake  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  more  beautiful  than  we  had  imagined  a  salt-water  lake 
could  be."  Its  shores  are  bold  enough  to  be  striking,  rounded  enough 
to  be  winsome,  and  diversified  by  every  form  of  headland,  estuary, 
glade,  and  forest.  The  woods  are  of  an  infinite  variety,  making  a  de- 
licious harmony  of  colors.  The  coast-line  is  of  marvelous  extent,  so 
many  and  so  deep  are  the  branches  of  the  lake,  diverging  in  every 
direction  between  the  ranges  of  the  hills.  Among  the  chief  of  these 
estuaries  and  inlets  are  River  Denys,  East  Bay  or  St.  Andreio's  Chan- 
nel, and  West  Bay  or  St.  George^  Channel.  Near  the  head  of  East 
Bay  is  the  picturesque  Indian  village  of  liscasoni,  and  everywhere  lie 
snugly  nestling  hamlets  of  Scotch  Highlanders. 

From  the  Great  Bras  iTOr  the  steamer  enters  a  beautiful  channel, 
2  miles  long  by  about  a  mile  in  width,  called  the  Strait  of  Barru  ov  the 
Grand  Narrows,  and  calls  at  a  settlement  of  the  latter  name.  The  dis- 
trict is  peopled  by  immigrants  from  Barra  in  the  Hebrides.  Passing 
through  the  strait  we  enter  the  Little  Bras  rf'  Or  Lake,  whose  charm  of 
landscape  and  climate  compels  the  acknowledgment  of  the  most  dis- 
contented of  globe-trotters.  Around  the  lake  crowd  innumerable  shel- 
tering hills,  most  of  them  named  with  a  fine  freshness  and  disregard 
of  the  exigencies  of  pronunciation.  To  the  westward  of  the  lake,  for 
instance,  lie  the  heights  of  Watchahaktchkt !  The  next  stoppage  is  at 
the  village  on  which  Mr.  Warner  has  conferred  a  certain  kind  of  im- 
mortality. Every  traveler  who  goes  to  Cape  Breton,  it  is  to  be  pre- 
sumed, carries  a  copy  of  "  Baddeck,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing,"  which, 
if  not  always  quite  just  in  the  impressions  it  conveys,  is  always  good 

company. 

Baddeck* 

Baddeck  is  growing  year  by  year  more  popular,  more  sophis- 
ticated, more  expensive,  and  better  equipped  in  the  matter  of  hotel 
and  boarding-house  accommodations.  It  lies  40  miles  from  Syd- 
ney, and  has  a  population,  including  the  farm-houses  that  gather 
about  it,  of  some  1,900  souls.  The  original  spelling  of  the  name  was 
Bedeque.  The  village  is  of  some  importance,  both  as  a  shipping  por 
14 


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! 


210      THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY. 

and  as  the  shire  town  of  Victoria  County.  It  is  a  thoroughly  delight- 
ful watering-place,  a  very  idyll  of  peace  and  beauty  and  sparkling  at- 
mosphere, removed  from  all  the  bustle  of  modern  affairs,  yet  within 
easy  reach  of  the  pleasant  society  of  Sydney.  In  the  neighborhood  is 
Middle  River,  its  valley  peopled  with  Gaelic-speaking  Highlanders,  and 
its  innumerable  tumbling  tributaries  fairly  alive  with  trout.  The  early 
summer  is  best  for  the  trout-fishing,  when  the  sea-trout  are  running  in 
and  stocking  brooks  that  seem  by  far  too  small  for  them.  A  drive  of 
about  30  miles  by  a  lovely  road  will  take  one  to  the  renowned  fishing- 
waters  "of  the  Margarce  River,  where  the  trout  and  salmon  swarm. 
There  is  good  fishing  also  some  distance  up  the  Biff  Baddeck  River, 
which  flows  through  some  of  the  richest  hunting-grounds  of  Cape 
Breton.  A  point  of  some  interest  to  the  tourist  not  already  satiated 
with  Indians  is  the  Micmac  ViUaye  near  Baddeck.  These  red  men 
are  in  some  respects  fairly  advanced  in  civilization,  and  their  language, 
which  has  been  minutely  studied  and  systematized  by  the  life-long 
labors  of  the  late  Dr.  Silas  T.  Rand,  author  of  a  Micmac  Dictionary, 
has  a  rich  vocabulary  and  no  lack  of  flexibility  and  force.  No  one 
who  reads  the  Micmac  legends  gathered  by  Mr,  Lcland  will  doubt  the 
imaginative  vigor  of  the  tribe.  The  chief  hotels  of  Baddeck  are  the 
Telegraph  House  and  Bras  d'  Or  Hotel.  Gold  is  found  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Baddeck.  A  magnificent  drive  is  from  Baddeck  to  Whycoco- 
magh,  on  a  branch  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  through  the  noblest  of  scenery  all 
the  way.  A  divergence  of  4  or  5  miles  from  the  main  road  takes  one 
to  the  great  water  of  Lake  Ainslie,  the  source  of  the  Margaree.  In 
this  region  are  deposits  of  petroleum,  marble,  and  iron,  and  there  is  an 
interesting  cave  near  the  village.  Whycocomagh  may  also  be  reached  by 
steamer  through  the  splendid  strait  of  St.  Patricks  Channel.  The  pop- 
ulation of  the  district,  of  which  the  village  is  the  center,  is  about  2,500. 
Eighteen  miles  beyond  Whycocomagh  is  Mabou,  on  the  gulf  coast,  an 
important  seaport,  with  rich  coal-field"  '"^  the  vicinity.  Ten  miles 
southwest  of  MaboK  is  Port  Hood,  with  0  inhabitants,  the  busiest 

port  on  the  northwest  coast  of  the  islacu. 

From  Baddeck  to  the  mouth  of  Sydney  Harbor  the  route  varies. 
Sometimes  the  boats,  or  at  least  the  smaller  boats,  take  the  channel 
called  the  Little  Bras  d^Or,  but  ordinarily  that  of  the  Great  Bras  d*  Or. 
These  channels  lead  to  the  open  Atlantic,  about  8  miles  from  Sydney 
Harbor.  They  are  divided  by  Boularderie  Island,  which  is  about  35  miles 
in  length  by  8  miles  in  extreme  width,  and  owes  its  existence  as  an 


THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY.      211 


island  to  these  strange  and  beautiful  channels.  The  Little  Bras  d'Or 
is  a  deep  and  tide-swept  passage,  so  narrow  and  intricate  as  to  be  im- 
passable for  craft  of  any  size.  In  a  small  steamer  the  journey  is  very 
romantic  and  impressive,  and  one  feels  himself,  at  times,  imprisoned 
hopelessly  in  the  rocky  clefts.  The  Great  Bras  d'Or,  forming  the 
northwest  boundary  of  Boulardcrie,  is  a  noble  passage,  ranging  in 
width  from  1  to  3  miles,  and  extending  about  30  miles.  It  has  great 
depth,  and  the  scenery  of  its  shores,  overpecred  by  the  Mountains 
of  St.  Anne,  is  bold  and  impressive.  From  this  channel  the  steamer 
sails  out  between  the  surf-beaten  headland  of  Cape  Dauphin  and  the 
promontory  of  Point  Aroni,  with  its  coal-fields.  From  Point  Aconi 
the  course  is  S.  E.  for  9  miles  to  Cranberry  Head,  rounding  which  we 
find  ourselves  in  Sydney  Harbor. 

Running  up  the  harbor  we  see  in  the  distance  the  works  of  the 
Sydney  Mines — indeed,  the  whole  neighborhood  is  studded  with 
coal-mines,  and  at  any  time  we  may  be  passing  over  the  deep  sub- 
marine galleries  in  which  the  picks  of  the  miners  are  at  work  with  the 
sea-waves  rolling  fathoms  deep  between  them  and  the  upper  air.  The 
coal  of  this  district  is  among  the  best  the  world  produces ;  and  among 
the  many  mines  engaged  in  bringing  it  to  light  are,  besides  the  Sydney 
mines  already  named,  the  Victoria,  the  Lingan,  the  International,  the 
Gowrie,  and  the  Little  Glace  Bay.  These  are  all  easily  accessible  by 
stage  from  the  town  of  Sydney,  and  some  of  them  have  rail  communica- 
tion, for  freighting  purposes,  which  will  furnish  an  informal  means  of 

transit. 

Sydney. 

Sydney,  which  held  the  proud  position  of  provincial  capital  when 
Cape  Breton  was  a  province,  boasts  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  all  this 
well-havened  coast.  Her  population  by  the  last  census  (1891)  was 
3,667 ;  and  her  trade,  not  only  in  coal,  but  in  general  produce  as  well, 
is  of  great  and  growing  volume.  The  one  flaw  in  Sydney's  harbor  is 
the  fact  that  it  is  ice-bound  for  the  greater  part  of  the  winter.  In 
summer,  however,  it  is  full  of  life  and  activity ;  and  being  the  head- 
quarters of  the  French  squadron  in  the  North  Atlantic,  it  becomes  the 
scene  of  a  delightful  social  activity.  The  harbor  is  divided  by  a  penin- 
sula into  two  arms,  and  on  the  southwesterly  arm  is  Sydney.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  are  the  ruins  of  the  fortifications  and  bar- 
racks, occupied  by  a  British  garrison  up  to  the  time  of  the  Crimean 
War.     The  harbor  was  originally  called  Spaniards'  Bay,  having  been 


212      THROUmi  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEV. 

the  rendezvous  for  the  Spanish  fishing-fleets;  and  afterward  it  was 
used  by  the  English  as  a  center  from  which  to  carry  on  tlie  struggle  for 
the  island.  Now  that  England  has  made  good  and  enduring  her 
triumph,  France  retains  but  a  pier  and  flag-staff  at  the  town  of  Sydney, 
representing  her  coaling  privileges.  The  presence  of  the  French  ships 
and  the  French  officers,  with  their  continual  and  graceful  hospitalities, 
is  regarded  now  with  anything  but  hostility  by  the  citizens  of  Sydney. 
In  the  matter  of  hotels  Sydney  is  rather  comfortable  than  modern.  But 
a  summer  hotel  has  been  erected.  The  chief  are  the  Sydney,  McKen- 
zie's,  the  McClellan,  and  Cabot.  It  is  generally  easy  to  get  board  in 
semi-private  houses,  at  from  $4  to  $6  a  week. 

Eight  miles  from  Sydney,  and  reached  by  a  stconi-ferry,  is  the  town 
of  North  Sydney,  the  business  center  of  the  Sydney  coal-mines. 
North  Sydney  has  more  stir  but  much  less  charm  than  its  rival,  and  is 
not  likely  to  attract  the  tourist  to  any  prolonged  sojourn.  It  is  per- 
vaded with  coal-dust  and  activity,  and  is  a  good  place  to  make  the 
money  that  may  be  more  agreeably  spent  elsewhere — at  Sydney,  for 
instance.  Its  population  is  from  5,000  to  6,000,  and  it  has  several 
tanneries,  a  boot  and  shoe  factory,  and  extensive  ship-yards.  The 
chief  hotel  is  the  Belmont  Hotel. 

The  harbor  of  Sydney,  though  utterly  overshadowed,  historically, 
by  Louisburg,  has  seen  some  stirring  episodes.  Here  gathered  the 
remnants  of  Admiral  Sir  Hovenden  Walker's  fleet  after  its  wreck  off 
the  St.  Lawrence  mouth  in  1711 — a  powerful  remnant,  indeed,  seeing 
that  it  consisted  of  42  ships  of  war.  In  1781  took  place,  off  the  har- 
bor, a  gallant  battle  between  two  44-gun  French  frigates  and  four  light- 
armed  British  vessels,  which  were  convoying  a  fleet  of  coal-ships.  The 
result  was  a  somewhat  unfruitful  victory  for  the  French,  as  the  defeated 
English  vessels  made  their  escape  under  cover  of  night,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  little  ship  of  6  guns  which  remained  in  the  victors'  hands.  In 
1786  the  site  of  Sydney  was  occupied  by  a  party  of  United  Empire 
Loyalists,  under  the  leadership  of  Abraham  Cuyler,  former  Mayor  of 

Albany,  New  York. 

Louisburg. 

Twenty-four  miles  from  Sydney,  by  the  Sydney  and  Louisburg 
Railroad,  lies  the  storied  site  of  Louisburg,  now  but  a  little  fishing 
village,  whose  inhabitants  follow  their  calling  on  the  Grand  Banks  of 
Newfoundland.  Its  population  is  about  1,000.  The  modern  village  lies 
some  little  distance  from  the  ruins  of  the  walled  city  which  it  was  once 


THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATP:R8  TO  SYDNEY.       213 


the  fashion  to  call  the  '*  Dunkirk  of  America."  It  is  used  in  summer  as 
a  coaling-station.  The  harbor  is  spacious,  perfectly  sheltered,  and  with 
a  good  depth  of  water  everywhere ;  but  its  sujjremacy  has  fled  to  Syd- 
ney, and  is  not  likely  to  return,  unless  a  certain  "  ocean-ferry  "  scheme, 
one  of  several  such,  should  some  day  come  into  effect.  This  rather 
hypothetical  proposition  contemplates  a  fast  train-service  between  Louis- 
bourg  and  such  centers  as  Montreal,  Boston,  and  New  York,  connecting 
with  swift  ocean-steamers  for  the  transatlantic  voyage.  It  would  greatly 
shorten  the  trials  of  those  whose  dreaded  enemy  is  the  mal-de-mer. 

The  special  interest  of  Loiiisburg  lies  in  its  history,  which  has  been 
so  inimitably  told  by  Parkman  that  every  tourist  visiting  the  spot 
should  take  with  him  the  volumes  entitled  *'  Montcalm  and  Wolfe." 
The  scenery  at  Louisburg  is  not  bold  or  striking.  The  hills  surround- 
ing the  harbor  are  rather  low,  and  without  impressive  features ;  but 
the  land  lies  in  a  shape  very  favorable  to  defensive  fortification.  The 
harbor  entrance  is  narrowed  by  islands  and  reefs  to  a  width  of  about 
half  a  mile,  and  was  protected  by  mighty  batteries ;  behind  which,  at 
the  southwest  point  of  the  harbor,  rose  the  city  walls.  The  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor-mouth  is  a  promontory  called  Liffhthottse  Point, 
which  proved  itself  the  key  to  the  situation,  and  dominated  the  main 
defense,  that  known  as  the  Island  Battery.  Louisburg  arose  after  the 
Treaty  of  Utrecht,  and  in  its  building  no  treasure  was  spared.  The  best 
engineering  skill  of  the  tiuie  was  expended  upon  it,  and  when  com- 
pleted the  French  engineers  made  the  boast  that  it  could  be  effectively 
defended  by  a  garrison  of  women.  The  landward  side  was  not  de- 
feudeil  with  the  same  degree  of  care,  as  only  a  sea  attack  was  consid- 
ered practicable.  The  wild  surf  of  Gaburus  Bay,  and  the  bogs  inter- 
vening between  that  water  and  the  city,  wore  regarded  as  a  sufficient 
defense  against  the  approach  of  heavy  artillery,  and  against  light  guns 
the  walls  were  adequate. 

As  soon  as  war  was  declared  between  France  and  England,  in  1744, 
Massachusetts  turned  her  attention  to  Louisburg,  as  a  deadly  menace 
to  her  safety.  In  1*745  she  decided  to  undertake  its  capture.  The  ex- 
pedition she  sent  out  was  commanded  by  Colonel  William  Pepperell, 
who  was  supported  by  Commodore  Warren  and  the  West  India  squad- 
ron of  the  British  fleet.  The  New  England  forces,  raw  troops,  com- 
manded by  untrained  officers,  astonished  the  world  by  capturing  the 
supposed  impregnable  fortress.  Though  the  British  fleet  lent  valuable 
ftid  and  support,  the  main  credit  for  the  splendid  achievement  is  indis- 


.  Il 


^ 


! 


214      THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY. 

putably  due  to  the  New  England  militia  and  to  their  sagacious  and  capa- 
ble commander.  When  Pepperell  found  himself  within  the  walls,  and 
saw  the  tremendous  casemates  and  bastions  and  bomb-proofs  which 
his  guns  had  shattered,  and  realized  from  the  shot-torn  walls  of  the 
citadel,  the  convent,  the  hospital,  and  the  stately  cathedral,  the  wealth 
and  importance  of  the  situation,  he  was  overwhelmed  with  a  sense  ot 
the  magnitude  of  his  accomplished  task.  This  feat  of  the  New-Eng- 
landers  settled  the  contest  in  Europe.  With  the  Peace  of  1749  I-ouis- 
burg  was  restored  to  France  in  return  for  concessions  nearer  home ; 
and  all  that  seemed  to  remain  to  New  England  for  her  enterprise  was 
the  title  conferred  on  Pepperell.  But  in  truth  the  country  had  mani- 
fested her  power,  not  only  to  herself  but  to  the  world. 

In  1766,  when  war  again  broke  out  between  France  and  England, 
the  English  attempted  to  surprise  Louisburg ;  but  France  had  not  for- 
gotten her  lesson,  and  was  found  alert.  In  the  spring  of  1758  England 
gathered  her  forces  for  an  effort  that  should  be  tinal ;  and  early  in 
June  Wolfe  appeared  before  Louisburg,  support  by  a  vast  fleet.  This 
trained  commanaer  followed  almost  minutely  in  the  footsteps  of  Pep- 
perell, rightly  appreciating  the  old  New-Englander's  insight.  Louis- 
burg had  been  immensely  strengthened  for  just  such  an  emergency,  but 
the  result  was  the  same  as  before,  and  upon  the  destruction  of  the  har- 
bor defenses,  and  of  almost  all  the  French  fleet  at  refuge  in  the  harbor, 
the  city  surrendered,  giving  up  a  force  of  nearly  6,000  men  and  230  guns. 
After  the  capture,  England  spent  months  in  the  effort  to  thorotighly 
erase  the  fortifications.  Of  the  proud  city  itself  there  is  left  not  one 
stone  upon  another,  but  the  mighty  lines  of  the  earthworks  yet  remain, 
with  the  grand  slope  of  the  glacis,  and  the  enduring  arches  of  the  case- 
mates and  magazines.  The  scene  recalls  with  an  almost  poignant  ap- 
propriateness the  lines  of  Browning : 

Where  the  quiet  colored  end  of  evening  smiles, 

Miles  and  miles, 
On  the  solitary  pastures  where  our  sheep, 

Half  asleep. 
Tinkle  homeward  through  the  twilight,  stray  or  stop. 

As  they  crop, 
Was  the  site  once  of  a  city  great  and  gay, 

So  they  say. 
Of  our  country's  very  capital ;  its  prince 

Ages  since, 
Held  his  court  in,  gathered  councils,  wielding  far 
'  Peace  or  war,  ^ 


NET. 

•us  and  capa- 
ic  walls,  and 
roofs  which 
vails  of  the 
,  the  wealth 

a  sense  ot 
e  New-Eng- 
1749  r^ouis- 
arer  home; 
erprise  was 

had  mani- 


d  England, 
lad  not  fpr- 
58  England 
id  early  in 
licet.     This 
ps  of  Pep- 
ht.    Louis- 
rgency,  but 
of  the  har- 
the  harbor, 
d  230  guns, 
thoroughly 
ft  not  one 
.^et  remain, 
>f  the  case- 
ignant  ap- 


^1 

!  I' 
':  i-  li 

!i 


Loutsbourg  Memorial,  erected  by  the  Society  of  Colonial  Wan. 


.    THROUGH  THE  BRAS  d'oR  WATERS  TO  SYDNEY.      215 

In  the  waters  of  the  harbor  lie  the  hulkfl  of  sunken  war-ships ; 
and  on  the  low  green  slope  of  the  point  of  land  running  out  from 
the  ruined  ramparts  to  the  reefs  where  stood  the  Island  Battery,  is 
the  last  resting-place  of  the  brave  New  England  militia  who  per- 
ished in  the  great  siege.  The  ceaseless  beating  of  the  outer  surf, 
whose  voice  their  guns  outroarcd,  is  a  fitting  requiem.  And  now  a 
handsome  shaft  of  granite,  erected  in  1895  by  the  Society  of  Colonial 
Wars,  commemorates  their  achievement. 

New  Glasgow  to  Truro  and  Halifax. 

The  express  from  New  Gfasgow  halts  at  Stellarton  to  take  in  pas- 
sengers from  Pictou  and  the  island.  The  run  from  New  Glasgow  to 
TrnrOy  a  distance  of  43  miles,  is  for  the  most  part  through  a  rather 
uninteresting  country,  though  when  the  road  strikes  the  valley  of  the 
Shubenacadie  River,  which  it  descends  for  the  rest  of  the  distance,  the 
steep  red  sandstone  shores  of  the  stream  afford  some  pretty  bits  of 
scenery.  Six  miles  beyond  Stellarton  is  the  old  village  of  Hopewell, 
with  its  quaint,  old-fashioned  inu  of  Hopewell  Hotel,  a  spool-factory, 
and  a  prosperous  woolen-mill.  Fourteen  miles  from  New  Glasgow  is 
Glengarry,  whence  a  high-road  leads  to  the  Scotch  settlements  of  Gair- 
loch  and  New  Lairg.  Then  come  Lansdowne  (1*7  miles),  West  River 
(22  miles),  Riversdale  among  its  hills  (30  miles).  Union  (84  miles). 
Valley  (38  miles),  and  6  miles  farther  we  run  into  the  depot  of  Truro. 

Truro  is  a  growing  town  very  centrally  situated  for  the  provincial 
trade.  It  is  62  miles  from  Halifax,  56  miles  from  Pictou,  and  76  miles 
from  Amherst.  It  stands  on  the  fertile  alluvial  shores  of  the  Salmon 
River,  at  the  head  of  Cobequid  Bay,  which  is  an  arm  of  Minas  Basin. 
Truro's  manufactures  include  felt  hats,  leather,  woolens,  boots  and  shoes, 
machinery,  iron  castings,  canned  goods,  and  other  items.  The  best 
hotels  are  the  plain  but  comfortable  old  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel,  on 
the  pretty  central  square  of  the  town,  and  the  Learmont  House.  But 
there  are  many  more  hotels  in  the  town.  Truro  is  the  seat  of  a  well- 
conducted  educational  institution,  the  Provincial  Normal  School,  which 
occupies  a  handsome  building  with  well-kept  grounds  about  it.  The 
town  is  level  but  rather  pretty;  and  the  principal  street,  broad  and 
well  shaded,  and  containing  some  good  buildings  and  charming  private 
residences,  is  unusually  attractive.  On  the  outskirts  lies  the  Joseph 
Howe  Park,  which  is  perhaps  the  prettiest  and  most  picturesque  pleas-; 
ure-ground  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.    It  consists  of  a  bold  and  richly 


216 


NKW   OLAHOOW    TO   TRURO    AND    HALIFAX. 


t  i 


woodud  ravine  travurHod  by  a  nmall  Htrcam,  which  at  one  point  fails  in 
a  lovi'iy  cartcade  into  a  fniry-iilie  chaHm.  Tlie  Htoop  wall  of  this  chaHm 
M  lined  with  winding  atepH,  and  noolcH  contaiidng  Hcats,  and  lighted  by 
electric  lanipH  Hwiing  in  the  foliage.  When  theae  unique  grounds  are 
illuudnuted,  the  effect  i»  enchanting. 

Truro  was  originally  occupied  by  the  Acadians,  and,  after  their  ex- 
pulsion, by  immigrants  from  New  Hampshire  and  disbanded  Irish  sol- 
diers. The  Shuhenncadlc  River,  nmning  past  the  back  of  the  town,  is 
one  of  the  longest  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  in  the  lower  portion  of  its  course 
is  a  tidal  strean),  with  important  ship-yards  about  its  mouth.  The  tide 
at  this  point  is  tremendous.  Along  the  course  of  the  Shubenacadie 
and  connecting  with  the  Dartmouth  Lakes  lies  the  disused  Shubena- 
cadie Canal,  which  was  built  at  an  enormous  cost  but  turned  out  a 
failure.  Fronj  Truro  a  stage  line  runs  down  the  north  shore  of  Cobe- 
quid  Bay  a  distance  of  between  40  and  50  nnles,  through  the  settle- 
ments of  Masstown  (where  stood  the  largest  chapel  of  the  ancient 
Acadians,  and  where  now  the  old  poplars  and  apple-trees  remind  us  of 
the  former  inhabitahts).  Folly  Village,  Great  Village,  Highland  Vil- 
lage, Port  au  Pique,  Hass  River,  and  Upper  Economy,  to  Five  Islands, 
where  stand,  off  shore,  those  five  great  rocks  which,  say  the  Indians, 
were  thrown  there  by  Glusk&p  in  his  contest  with  the  Great  Beaver. 

Till  we  approach  Halifax  the  journey  from  Truro  yields  little  in  the 
way  of  striking  scenery.  The  station  next  to  Truro  is  Brookfield  (8 
miles);  then  the  pretty  pastoral  village  of  Stewiacke  (17  miles)  and 
the  river  of  the  same  name.  From  the  busy  little  village  of  Shubena- 
cadie (22  miles)  stages  run  down  the  river  18  miles  to  the  rich  ship* 
building  village  of  Maitland,  which  stands  on  an  arm  of  Cobequid  Bay, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie.  Maitland  ships  and  Maitland 
sailors  may  be  found  on  every  sea.  Near  Maitland,  in  the  gypsum 
rock,  so  abundant  in  all  these  regions,  there  is  a  curious  cave  worth 
exploring.  Its  entrance  is  barely  large  enough  to  admit  one  com- 
fortably ;  but  it  enlarges  as  you  go  in,  and  is  some  400  or  500  yards 
in  depth.  Stages  also  run  from  Shubenacadie,  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion, to  the  gold  district  of  Gay's  River  and  a  number  of  villages  be- 
yond. The  gold  of  Gay's  River  is  found  in  the  conglomerate  rock  of  a 
long  ridge  of  heights  called  Boar's  Back.  Leaving  Shubenacadie  we 
pass  the  villages  of  Milford  (26  miles),  Elmsdale  (32  miles),  and  En- 
field (34  miles).  Enfield  has  a  large  and  prosperous  establishment  for 
the  manufacture  of  pottery,  its  clay  being  excellent  in  strength  and 


NEW   OLARflOW   TO  TRURO    AND   HALIFAX. 


217 


tcxturo.  Three  iniloH  Houth  of  KnHcId  arc  the  fmnoun  Oldham  (hid 
J/</j/'«,  whose  quiiilz  rock  yii'hln  very  rich  returns.  About  7  lullen  on 
the  other  side  of  KnKehl  are  the  UaiJ'rew  (Udd  MiucH,  c<|ually  fuinous 
After  paHHin}^  OtikKeld  (38  iiilleH)  we  coine  to  the  flag-station  of  (Jrand 
Lake,  on  a  broad  water  of  the  same  name,  wherein  may  be  luid  some 
excellent  trout-flshing,  as  in  the  other  lakes  of  this  neighborhood. 
After  passing  Wellington  (41  miles),  and  skirting  Long  Lake,  the  train 
runs  into  W'iiidxo)'  Junction  (4H  ndles),  where  the  Intercohmial  R.  R. 
connects  with  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway.  The  juncticm  consists, 
besides  the  station-house,  of  some  half-dozen  whitewashed  shanties, 
a  little  whitewashed  church,  some  picturescpie  pools  of  clear  water 
a  fair  sprinkling  of  goats,  myriads  of  great,  gray  bowlders,  and 
here  and  there  in  the  crevices  a  blueberry-bush.  It  is  a  picturesque 
place,  but  no  one  stops  there  unless  now  and  then  to  hunt  for  water- 
lilies,  and  to  get  a  hotel  one  must  run  on  to  liedford  or  Halifax.  Three 
miles  beyond  Windsor  Junction  is  Rocky  Lake,  near  the  Wuverly  Gold 
Mines,  which  are  charmingly  situated  in  a  picturesque  and  narrow  val- 
ley between  two  lakes.  Fifty-three  miles  from  Tri'vo  we  run  over  a  high 
bridge,  across  a  beautiful  peopled  valley,  into  the  village  of  Redford 
and  a  landscape  of  enchantment.  Bedford  is  at  the  head  of  the  noble 
water  called  Bedford  Basin,  a  great  lake-like  expansion  of  Halifax 
Harbor.  It  is  9  miles  from  Halifax,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
suburban  trains  as  well  as  by  the  express  service  of  the  Intercolonial. 
Its  boating  and  bathing  arc  not  to  be  surpassed,  and  its  waters  are 
deliciously  mild  in  temperature.  Many  Ilaligonians  have  their  summer 
residences  here,  and  there  are  also  two  good  hotels,  the  Ji'dford  and 
the  Bellcvue,  close  to  the  station,  whose  rates  are  $2  a  day  or  |(10 
a  week.  Hither  come  the  trim  craft  of  the  Halifax  Royal  Yacht 
Squadron.  It  is  a  beautiful  drive  between  Halifax  and  Bedford,  and 
the  road  passes  the  quaint  little  structure  of  the  Prince's  Lodge^ 
perched  on  the  crest  of  a  pretty  little  wooded  knoll  and  shaking  to 
the  thunder  of  the  passing  trains.  This  retreat  is  sweet  with  romantic 
memories  of  the  Duke  of  Kent's  sojourn  in  Halifax,  and  of  the  lady 
whose  name  was  in  those  days  so  intimately  connected  with  his.  The 
railroad  skirts  the  basin,  for  the  most  part  close  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  the  delightful  "  bits "  that  pass  in  succession  before  one's  eyes 
must  torment  the  soul  of  the  artist.  Five  miles  beyond  Bedford  is 
Rockingham,  with  its  hotel,  called  the  Four-Mile  House,  and  the  fine 
brick  buildings  of  the  convent  school  for  girls,  called  Mount  St,  Yin- 


218 


NEW   GLA.8GOW   TO   TRURO   AND   HALIFAX. 


n 


cent.  Off  Rockiugham  is  a  famous  rowing-course.  Then  we  come  to  the 
Narrows,  where  the  harbor  is  but  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width.  Present- 
ly we  enter  the  crowded  freight-yards  of  the  dingy  suburb  of  Richmond ; 
and  a  mile  farther  on  the  train  comes  to  a  stop  in  the  depot  of  Halifax, 
on  JVbrth  Street. 

Halifax. 

The  population  of  Ilalifax,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  was 
38,556.  The  chief  hotels  are  the  Halifax  (|2  to  |3  a  day);  the 
Queen's  ($1.50  to  |3  a  day);  the  Wava'-ly  (|2.50);  the  Lome  ($1.26 
to  $1.50) ;  the  Albion  ($1  to  $1.50).  The  principal  streets  are  trav- 
ersed by  horse-cars  (fare  5  cents).  The  city  is  well  supplied  with  cabs, 
whose  charges  are  as  follows :  For  each  person  for  any  distance  up  to 
1  mile,  25c. ;  1|  mile,  30c. ;  2  miles,  40c. ;  2-J-  miles,  45c. ;  3  miles, 
50c. ;  and  all  other  distances  in  like  proportion.  One  half  the  above 
rates  to  be  paid  if  returning  in  the  same  carriage.  For  all  cabs  or  car 
riages  hired  by  the  hour  :  For  a  one-horse  carriage  an  hour,  75c. ;  for 
a  two-horse  carriage  an  hour,  $1 ;  and  in  like  proportion  for  every 
fraction  of  an  hour.  To  or  from  any  steamer  or  passenger  vessel,  or 
to  or  from  any  hotel  or  dwelling-house  to  any  stage  office,  railway  sta- 
tion, or  other  place,  with  half  a  cwt.  of  luggage,  50c. 

The  chief  clubs  are  the  Ilalifax  Club  and  the  City  Club.  The 
Roi/al  Nova  Scotia  Yacht  Club  may  also  be  mentioned,  among  many 
organizations  of  a  similar  class,  as  having  a  somewhat  marked  social 
basis.    The  chief  theatres  are  the  Academy  of  Music  and  Orpheus  Hall. 

From  Halifax  sail  a  number  of  steamboat  lines :  the  Furness  Line 
to  London ;  Beaver  Line  to  Liverpool ;  Donaldson  Line  to  Glasgow ; 
Allan  Line  to  Liverpool;  Red  Cross  Line  to  St.  John's,  Newfound- 
land; Anglo-French  Line  to  St.  Pierre;  lines  to  Bermuda,  Jamaica, 
Turk's  Islands,  and  Havana ;  the  Yarmouth  Line  to  Yarmouth ;  Hali- 
fax and  P.  E.  I.  Line  to  Charlottetown ;  Halifax  and  Newfound- 
land Line  (steamer  Harlaw)  to  Cape  Breton  and  the  French  Shore  of 
Newfoundland ;  Halifax  and  Bridgewater  Line  to  Lunenburg,  Bridge- 
water,  and  Liverpool ;  and  the  fine  steamers  Halifax  and  Olivette,  of 
the  Canada  Atlantic  and  Plant  Line  to  Boston.  This  is  a  most  desir- 
able route  to  Boston.  The  fare  is  $6,50;  return  ticket,  $12.  State- 
rooms, $1  to  $2  extra.  The  steamers  duruig  the  winter  sail  from 
Halifax  every  Wednesday,  at  8  a.  m.,  arriving  in  Boston  Thursday  at  1 
p.  M. ;  from  Boston  every  Saturday  at  noon,  arriving  in  Halifax  Sunday 
evening,  6  p.  m.  The  summer  sailings  are  as  follows :  From  Boston, 
every  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and  Saturday,  at  noon  ;  from  Halifax,  every 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  7  a.  m.,  and  Saturday,  at  11  p.  m.  Through 
tickets  are  issued,  in  connection  with  this  line,  over  most  important  rail- 
ways, and  baggage  checked  through.  The  boats  are  very  steady  and 
safe,  and  most  comfortable  in  their  equipments.  Another  and  much 
favored  route  between  Halifax  and  Boston  is  that  by  way  of  the  Do- 
minion Atlantic  Railway  and  the  Yarmouth  Steamship  Company,  re- 
ferred to  more  fully  on  a  later  page. 


HALIFAX. 


219 


re- 


The  city  of  Halifax  is  situated  on  Halifax  Harbor,  formerly  Che- 
bucto  Bay,  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world.  The  harbor  proper, 
whose  Indian  nam«  signifies  "  the  chief  haven,"  is  6  miles  long,  with  an 
average  breadth  of  1  mile,  and  has  in  every  portion  secure  anchorage 
for  the  largest  ships  that  float.  The  hi.?tory  of  Halifax  is  compara- 
tively brief,  but  stirring.  It  was  founded  in  June,  1749,  by  the  Hon. 
Edward  Cornwallis,  with  2,576  British  immigrants.  The  chief  pro- 
moter of  the  enterprise  was  the  Earl  of  Halifax,  President  of  the  Board 
of  Trade  and  Plantations.  When  winter  came  there  were  nearly  5,000 
people  within  the  palisaded  walls  of  the  infant  city.  The  building  of 
Halifax  was  a  proclamation  to  the  French  that  England  intended  to 
make  the  peninsula  thoroughly  and  permanently  her  own ;  and  forth- 
with the  Acadians  and  their  Indian  allies,  under  the  direction  of  agents 
from  Quebec  and  Cape  Breton,  began  to  harass  the  new  settlement 
and  strive  in  every  way  to  compass  its  destruction.  If  men  went  alone 
into  the  woods  to  hunt  or  gather  fuel,  they  were  cut  off  by  unseen  foes. 
Outlying  houses  were  raided  by  night,  and  their  occupant9  slaughtered 
or  carried  away  captive.  Children  were  stolen  from  the  threshold  or 
the  cradle.  A  small  village  had  rapidly  sprung  up  where  now  stands 
Dartmouth^  across  the  harbor.  One  night  the  citizens  of  Halifax,  too 
far  away  to  render  aid,  had  to  watch  helplessly  the  burning  of  this  set- 
tlement, and  listen  to  the  noise  of  a  conflict  whose  result  they  could 
guess  but  too  well.  The  case  was  in  some  respects  a  parallel,  in  others 
a  sharp  contrast,  to  that  of  Montreal  on  the  night  of  the  Lachine  mas- 
sacre. When  the  Halifax  contingent  arrived  with  daybreak  on  the 
scene  they  found  the  scalped  bodies  of  the  settlers  among  the  smoking 
ruins  of  their  dwellings.  This  was  in  1751.  The  new  city  speedily 
became  a  great  uav.al  station,  whereat  the  English  forces  concentrated 
for  the  attack  of  Louisburg  and  Quebec ;  and  during  the  American 
Revolution  Halifax  was  the  chief  base  of  British  operations.  When 
the  independence  of  the  Thirteen  Colonies  was  acknowledged,  the  popu- 
lation of  Halifax  grew  suddenly  by  the  immigration  of  some  thousands 
of  United  Empire  Loyalists.  The  growth  of  Halifax  since  then  has 
been  slow  as  regards  population,  but  more  considerable  as  far  as  wealth 
and  influence  are  concerned.  The  American  civil  war  brought  Halifax 
a  short  period  of  remarkable  prosperity,  when  she  became  the  head  of 
extensive  blockade-running  operations  and  a  center  for  Southern  sym- 
pathizers. With  peace  came  something  like  stagnation,  from  which 
the  city  has  awakened  only  within  the  last  decade. 


220 


HALIFAX. 


M 


THE  FORTIFICATIONS. 


In  the  city  of  ^he  present  day  the  chief  interest  centers  in  the 
fortifications,  which  constitute  Ilahfax  the  strongest  fortress  in  the 
New  World.  The  defenses  begin  at  Sambro  Island,  off  the  mouth 
of  the  harbor,  which  is  occupied  by  a  "  lookout "  party  of  artillery. 
Two  miles  below  the  city  is  MacNab's  Inland,  crowned  with  stone 
batteries,  and  carrying  a  light  to  warn  ships  off  the  Thrumcap 
Shoals.  Above  and  below,  strong  batteries,  of  which  the  chief  is 
York  Redoubt,  lie  in  wait  at  points  of  vantage  on  both  sides  of  the 
harbor.  In  Point  Pleasant  Park,  immediately  adjoining  the  city,  be- 
tween the  harbor  and  the  northwest  Arm,  are  the  batteries  of  Point 
Pleasant  and  Fort  Ogilvie.  Across  the  harbor,  just  below  Dart- 
mouth, are  the  frowning  works  of  Fort  Clarence,  and  in  mid-har- 
bor is  the  grassy  cone  of  George's  Island,  with  armaments  and  de- 
fenses of  vast  but  unknown  strength.  On  this  fortress  (Jreat  Britain 
has  lately  spent  and  is  still  spending  immense  sums,  and  it  may  be  con- 
sidered the  equal  of  the  citadel,  if  not  its  superior  in  some  respects. 
Of  old  it  was  possible  to  gain  admittance  to  this  stronghold,  but  now  its 
stupendous  mysteries  are  kept  obscure,  since  visitors  were  found  to  have 
made  interesting  plans  and  notes  in  regard  to  the  works.  Now,  if  any 
one,  peculiarly  favored  by  authority,  should  gain  entrance  to  a  portion 
of  the  interior,  he  woidd  find  the  green  and  harmless-looking  island 
swarming  with  troops,  and  honey-combed  with  galleries  and  arsenals 
and  casemates.  From  the  port-hole  of  one  of  these  casemates,  around 
whose  mouth  the  grass  waves  innocently,  and  behind  which  lurks  the 
grim  shape  of  a  great  cannon  like  a  beast  of  prey  in  ambush,  one  looks 
out  upon  a  sunlit  scene  of  peace  and  human  activity.  On  the  ramparts 
of  the  citadel  (to  which  it  is  now  almost  impossible  to  gain  even  the 
most  superficial  entrance)  one  is  227  ft.  above  sea-level,  and  the  view 
is  magnificent.  The  city  skirts  the  citadel  hill,  its  streets  running  up 
the  height  as  far  as  permitted.  The  works  were  begun  by  the  Duke  of 
Kent  when  commander  of  the  forces  at  Halifax,  and  almost  yearly 
since  they  have  been  changed  and  strengthened  in  one  way  or  another, 
till  now  the  position  is  regarded  as  impregnable ;  and  the  barracks 
within  the  walls  are  shell-proof.  The  armament  is  largoly  composed 
of  immensely  heavy  muzzle-loaders  of  a  modern  type,  firing  conical 
Palliser  chilled-iron  shot.  Around  the  narrow  entrance  gate  stands 
guc^rd  a  semicircular  battery  of  11   guns.    On  the  citadel  flag-staff 


\^ 


HALIFAX. 


221 


flutter  gayly  th».   i-any-colored  signal  flags  that  announce  approaching 
ships. 


In 


OTHER  POINTS  OF  INTEREST. 


view 


m  the  citadel  is  that  from  the 
deck  of  boat  or  steamer  as  we  sail  up  the  harbor.  The  climbing 
streets  and  roofs,  the  soaring  spires,  and  the  crowning  fortifications 
come  together  with  exquisite  eifect.  In  a  corner  of  the  dark  and  broken 
Dartmouth  shores  lurks  the  little  town  of  Dartmouth.  The  coloring  of 
the  scene  is  lovely  enough  in  the  broad  sunlight ;  but  when  the  sun  is 
setting  at  the  head  of  the  harbor  it  becomes  simply  superb.  The 
masts  of  the  shipping  rise  black  in  a  flood  of  rose  or  amber,  the  win- 
dows on  the  Dartmouth  shore  are  a  blaze  of  molten  copper,  and  the 
sky  above  the  hill?  of  the  outer  harbor,  to  eastward,  takes  on  a  hue  of 
wonderful  beryl  green.  In  this  divine  light  the  grim  bulks  of  her 
Majesty's  war-ships,  motionless  at  their  anchorage  off  the  Dochiard, 
rise  black  and  portentous.  The  Royal  Dockyard,  toward  the  upper 
end  of  the  city,  extends?  for  half  a  mile  along  the  harbor  front,  and  is 
in  every  respect  a  thoroughly  equipped  navy-yard.  It  is  divided  from 
the  rest  of  the  city  by  a  high  stone  wall,  and  is  not  open  to  the  pub- 
lic; but  permission  to  visit  it  may  usually  be  obtained  from  the 
superintendent.  A  little  farther  up  town,  on  Gottingen  St.,  is  the  Ad- 
miralty House,  where  dwells  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  North 
American  and  West  India  Squadrons.  The  Admiralty  House  overlooks, 
though  at  some  little  distance,  the  costly  and  massive  structure  of  the 
Dry  Dock,  lately  completed.  This  structure  is  613^  ft.  long  at  the 
top,  593  ft.  long  at  the  bottom ;  in  width  102  ft.  at  top,  70  ft.  at  bot- 
tom ;  and  has  a  draught  of  water  on  the  sills  of  30  ft.  This  exceeds  the 
dimensions  of  the  Brooklyn  Dry  Dock  by  46  ft.  in  length  and  13  in 
width.  It  is  built  of  granite  and  concrete.  A  little  N.  stand  the  spa- 
cious Wellington  Barracks.  The  general  effect  of  the  streets  of  Hali- 
fax is  somber,  from  the  prevalence  of  gray  stone  or  gray  paint,  or,  in 
many  quarters,  no  paint  at  all.  The  best  portions  of  Hollis  and 
Granville  Sts.  are  well  and  solidly  built,  showing  wealth  without  dis- 
play. The  most  important  structure  on  Hollis  St.  is  the  massive,  dark- 
gray  Parliament  Building,  which  must  be  regarded,  in  its  severe  sim- 
plicity, as  a  really  good  piece  of  architecture.  The  Chambers  of  the 
Assembly  and  the  Legislative  Council  are  tastefully  decorated,  and 
contain  some  rather  notable  portraits.    Among  these  is  one  of  Sir 


222 


HALIFAX. 


I  r 


Thomas  Strange,  painted  by  Benjamin  West.  There  are  also  several  of 
England's  kings  and  queens,  and  such  distinjjuished  sons  of  Nova 
Scotia  as  Judge  Haliburton,  better  known  as  Sam  Slick,  Sir  John  In- 
glis,  the  defender  o^  Lucknow,  and  Sir  Fenwick  V'lliams,  the  hero  of 
Kars.  The  building  also  contains,  in  the  Legislative  Library,  a  valu- 
able collection  of  books.  Opposite  the  Parliament  Building  stands  a 
handsome  freestone  structure  whose  lower  stories  are  occupied  by  the 
Post-Office  and  Custom-House,  and  its  third  floor  by  the  Provincial 
Museum.  Just  S.  of  the  Parliament  House  are  the  fine  brown-stone 
quarters  of  the  Halifax  Club.  Farther  along  HolHs  St.,  on  the  E.  side, 
are  the  chief  hotels  of  the  city,  the  Halifax  Hotel  and  the  Queen.  The 
Halifax  occupies  a  historic  building,  which  has  been  enlarged  and  mod- 
ernized to  one  of  the  best-equipped  hotels  in  Canada.  On  the  corner 
of  Granville  and  Prince  Sts.  is  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  with  its  library 
and  reading-rooms. 

A  good  deal  of  the  business  of  Granville  St.  is  shifting  farther 
up  the  hill  to  Barrington  St.,  one  of  the  most  important  thorough- 
fares in  the  city.  This  street  is  peculiarly  confusing  to  visitors,  for 
in  its  lower  portion  it  calls  itself  Pleasant  St.,  while  its  upper  or 
northern  section  is  known  as  Lockman  St. ;  and  its  last  extremity 
becomes  Campbell  Road.  Only  the  life-long  resident  is  expected  to 
know  the  point  at  which  one  name  ceases  to  apply  and  another 
comes  into  effect.  On  Barrington  St.,  at  the  south  end  of  the  Grand 
Parade,  stands  the  dingy  but  dignified  old  church  of  St.  PanVs.  This 
great  wooden  structure  is  the  oldest  church  in  the  city,  having  been 
built  in  the  year  1750,  at  the  State  expense.  It  is  an  exact  copy  of 
St.  Peter's  Church,  on  Vere  St.,  London.  The  building  is  one  of  great 
historic  interest,  and  its  collection  of  mural  tablets  is  richer  than 
that  of  any  other  church  in  Canada.  It  accommodates  about  2,000 
people.  The  Parade  is  the  central  square  of  the  city,  and  occupies  a 
terrace  high  above  Barrington  St.  The  terrace  wall  is  a  splendid 
piece  of  masonry  in  gray  granite.  At  the  north  end  of  the  Parade 
rises  the  stately  pile  of  the  Neic  City  Hall,  on  the  site  formerly  oc- 
cupied by  the  buildings  of  Dalhousie  University.  This  progressive  and 
flourishing  university  now  occupies  a  handsome  structure,  erected  in 
1886-'87,  some  distance  out  Morris  St.  It  has  made  great  advances 
within  the  last  few  years,  under  the  presidency  of  Dr.  John  Forrest. 

Moving  south  along  Barrington  St.  from  the  Parade  we  pass  the 
effective  new  structure  of  the  Church  of  England  Institute,  and  then  the 


\s 


I ) 


HALIFAX. 


223 


building  of  the  City  Club.  Then  comes  the  nretty  little  theatre,  called  the 
Academy  of  Music ;  and  opposite,  on  the  corner  of  Spring  Garden  Road, 
is  the  Glebe  House,  soon  to  be  demolished,  where  dwells  the  Roman 
Catholic  Archbishop  of  Halifax.  A  stone's-throw  from  the  corner,  in  a 
most  commanding  situation,  stands  St.  Mary's  Cathedral,  by  far  the  most 
important  church,  architecturally,  in  the  city.  It  is  built  of  gray  stone, 
with  a  fine  front  and  spire  of  granite.  In  the  spire  is  a  chime  of  bells, 
not  remarkably  melodious.  Beyond  the  Academy  of  Music  stands  St. 
Matthew''s  Church,  belonging  to  the  Presbyterians.  This  is  a  building 
of  some  architectural  distinction — which  can  not  be  said  of  the  majority 
of  Halifax  churches.  Next  to  St.  Matthew's,  on  a  charming  site,  is 
the  plain  freestone  structure  of  Gov':rnmc7it  House,  whose  grounds  ex- 
tend through  to  Hollis  St.  Immediately  opposite  is  old  St.  Paul's 
Cemetery,  very  noticeable  for  its  fine  trees  and  its  striking  monument 
to  the  memory  of  two  Nova  Scotian  officers,  Welsford  and  Parker, 
who  fell  before  Sebastopol.  Continuing  along  Pleasant  St.  we  pass 
Morris  St.,  on  which  lies  Dalhousie  College,  already  mentioned ;  the 
Exhibition  Building,  the  Institution  for  the  Blind,  and  the  plain  Church 
or  pro-Cathedral  of  St.  Luke's,  the  see-church  of  the  oldest  Angli- 
can colonial  bishopric.  Beyond  Morris  St.  we  pass  the  quiet  and  aris- 
tocratic Waverly  Hotel,  and  the  eminently  successful  Presbyterian 
Ladies'  College.  The  next  cross-street  is  South  St.,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  the  Boi/al  Engineer's'  Yard,  familiarly  known  as  the  Lum- 
ber Yard.  This  is  a  favorite  point  of  departure  for  boating  excur- 
sions and  for  the  races  of  the  Royal  Yacht  Squadron.  If  we  con- 
tinue along  Pleasant  St.,  we  presently  find  ourselves  beyond  the 
houses  and  skirting  the  water-side.  We  are  in  the  beautiful  and 
spacious  resoi't  of  Point  Pleasant  Park,  with  its  matchless  carriage- 
drives,  and  winding  foot-paths,  and  secluded  dells,  and  bits  of  wild- 
wood  scenery,  and  broad  sea-views,  and  every  here  and  there  the 
exhilarating  surprise  of  a  strong  fortification  or  an  ambushed  bat- 
tery. The  park  is  imperial  property,  but  leased  indefinitely  to  the 
city  at  a  shilling  a  year.  For  a  space  of  one  day  in  each  year  the 
park  is  closed  to  the  public  to  preserve  the  property  against  a  claim 
of  right-of-way.  From  the  seaward  point  of  the  park,  where  the  har- 
bor is  joined  by  the  waters  of  the  Northwest  Arm,  is  commanded  a 
fine  view,  including  the  high  fortifications  of  York  Redoubt.  The 
Northwest  Arm  is  a  beautiful  water  about  3  miles  long  and  half  a  mile 
in  width,  the  head  of  which  comes  within  2  miles  of  Bedford  Basin. 


224 


HALIFAX. 


I  ; 


i 


Along  its  eastern  shore  are  some  of  the  best  private  residences  of 
Halifax.  The  Ann  is  a  delightful  resort  in  summer,  and  is  traversed 
by  a  small  steamer,  which  runs  also  to  MaoNab's  Island.  Its  waters 
are  navigable  throughout  its  entire  length,  and  afford  some  good  sport 
in  the  way  of  lobster-spearing  and  fishing  for  pollock  with  the  fly. 
Bathers  find  its  temperature  rather  low  compared  with  that  of  Bedford 
Basin ;  and  there  is  the  added  disadvantage  of  the  possibility,  some- 
what remote  indeed,  of  a  visit  from  a  small  shark.  At  the  head  of  the 
Arm  is  Melville  Island,  once  occupied  by  prisoners  of  war,  now  used  as 
a  military  prison.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Arm  is  Pernctt's  Island,  and  a 
short  distance  above  it  arc  two  immense  iron  rings  fastened  into  the 
rock  on  each  side  of  the  inlet,  from  which  was  slung,  during  the  War  of 
1812,  a  massive  chain  cable  to  bar  the  ingress  of  hostile  ships.  Other 
points  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Arm  are  The  Dingle,  noted 
for  its  fairy  loveliness,  and  Dutch  Village,  supposed  to  be  interesting. 
About  3  miles  from  the  Arm  is  a  famous  '■^ Rocking- Stone ''^  of  granite, 
which  may  be  set  in  motion  by  a  small  lever.  This  peculiar  phenom- 
enon is  on  the  St.  Margaret's  Bay  Boad.  It  weighs  something  over  150 
tons,  and  oscillates  on  a  base  of  12  inches  by  6  inches.  Nearer  town, 
on  the  Prospect  Road,  is  a  similar  stone  of  much  smaller  dimensions. 

One  of  the  chief  "  lions  "  of  Halifax  is  situated  where  Spring  Gar- 
den Road  intersects  with  South  Park  St.  We  refer  to  the  beautiful 
PnbHc  Gardens,  perhaps  the  finest  in  Canada  or  the  Northern 
States.  The  grounds  cover  18  acres,  and  are  most  tastefully  laid  out 
and  adorned,  besides  being  endowed  with  great  natural  beauty  to  begin 
with.  On  the  picturesque  waters  of  the  pond  are  interesting  water- 
fowl, including  black  and  white  swans.  On  Saturday  afternoons  a  mili- 
tary band  plays  from  four  till  six ;  and  on  summer  eveiiings  concerts 
are  often  given,  when  the  grounds  are  brilliantly  illuminated.  At  the 
western  end  are  tennis-courts.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
Gardens  are  Camp  Hill  Cemetery,  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  the 
grounds  of  the  Wanderers'  Athletic  Association,  Dalhousie  College, 
already  mentioned,  the  vast  new  pile  of  the  Poor-House,  the  Victoria 
General  Hospital,  and  the  pretty  little  church  known  as  Bishop's 
Chapel,  near  which  has  been  laid  the  corner-stone  for  the  proposed 
Anglican  Cathedral.  Among  the  many  other  churches  of  the  city,  the 
most  interesting  are,  perhaps,  the  curious  circular  structure  of  St. 
George's  (Ang.)  on  Brunswick  St.,  the  handsome  Fort  Massey  Church 
(Presb.)  on  Tobin  St.,  the  spacious  new  brick  structure  of  St.  Patrick's 


\i 


HALIFAX. 


226 


(R.  C.)  on  Brunswick  St.,  the  pretty  Methodist  Church  on  Grafton  St., 
the  quahit  little  Dutch  Church  far  up  Brunswick  St.,  built  for  the 
German  immigrants  in  1761,  and  the  almost  equally  unpretentious 
Garrison  Chapel  on  Brunswick  St.,  just  below  the  Citadel.  The  serv- 
ices at  Garrison  Chapel  are  interesting  to  visitors  on  account  of  the 
impressive  military  display  which  accompanies  them.  Among  other 
points  of  interest  are  the  Great  Grain  Elevator  up  Water  St.  and  the 
Cotton  Mills  on  Kempt  Boad.  On  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays,  in  the 
early  morning,  the  traveler  should  make  a  special  point  of  visiting  the 
Green  Market,  where  the  covmtry  folk,  ignoring  the  stalls  of  the  com- 
fortable brick  Market-House,  sell  their  goods  on  the  broad  side- 
walks surrounding  the  Post-Office.  The  characteristic  scene  is  thus 
described  by  the  Rev.  R.  Murray : 

There  are  Dutch  women  from  along  the  eastern  shore  with  their 
baskets  of  green  crops,  which  have  been  nourished  on  the  purest  ozone 
and  the  richest  sea-kelp.  There  are  the  Blue-nose  women,  broad  and 
high-colored,  fearless  alike  of  wind  and  weather,  as  they  drive  iheir 
loaded  teams  by  night,  over  rough  and  lonely  roads,  to  reach  the  ear- 
liest Dartmouth  ferry-boat.  They  offer,  with  a  friendly  smile  on  their 
weather-beaten  visages,  primrose  butter,  pei'du  under  cool  cabbage- 
leaves,  and  pearly  eggs,  food  for  the  gods.  There  are  lank-limbed 
countrymen,  clad  in  gray  homespun,  standing  beside  their  loads  of 
vegetables  or  salt-marsh  hay;  not  keen  and  shrewd-eyed,  like  New 
England  farmers,  but  bashfully  courteous  of  speech,  with  the  soft 
lisp  of  German  fatherland  on  their  tongues  or  the  burr  of  their 
Scottish  ancestry.  Here  are  a  pair  of  Frenchwomen  with  baskets 
of  knitted  goods  on  their  arms.  Contrast  the  withered  and  yellow 
grandame,  her  grizzled  hair  bulging  in  a  roll  above  her  bushy  eye- 
brows, her  claw-like  hands  plying  her  knitting-wires,  with  the  fresh 
young  girl  by  her  side,  whose  arch  black  eyes  sparkle  from  out 
of  her  smooth  olive  face,  and  her  white  teeth  display  themselves  in 
full  force  as  we  finger  the  huge  mittens  in  her  basket.  Old  and 
young  are  habited  alike,  in  blue  or  black  handkerchiefs  tightly  knotted 
under  the  chin,  loose  blue  jackets  with  napkin-shawls  folded  over 
them,  and  short  woolen  skirts.  Scores  of  tliem  have  been  on  the  road 
all  night,  trotting  the  26  miles  from  Chczzetcook  on  foot,  their  fingers 
busily  plying  the  knitting-needles  all  the  way.  There  squats  a  negro 
matron  on  the  pavement,  her  clouted  feet  stretched  before  her  in  utter 
disregard  of  passers-by,  a  short  black  pipe  between  her  pendulous  lips. 
Her  layers  of  rags  clothe  her  like  the  fungi  of  a  dead  tree ;  her  padded 
hood  is  fashioned  to  fulfill  the  olfice  of  a  saddle  for  her  load.  She  has 
luscious  wild  strawberries  in  little  birch-barks,  which  she  offers  you  in 
an  unctuous  faLselio,  stuffing  her  pipe  into  her  bosom,  the  better  to 
overhaul  her  store  for  a  fresh  one.  You  pause  in  your  bargain,  won- 
dering whether  her  teeth  hulled  the  tempting  fruit ! 
15 


,i 


1 ' 


226 


HALIFAX. 


>i 


The  "  noble  red  man  "  and  liia  nquaw  also  attend  market.  There 
they  stand,  a  degenerate  pair,  clad  in  the  cast-off  clothes  of  the  white 
man,  their  merchandise  consisting  of  flag  and  willow  baskets  gayly 
dyed,  and  an  occasional  porcupine-quill  box.  The  squaw  is  premature- 
ly aged.  Her  broad,  copper-colored  face  is  inconceivably  wrinkled ; 
her  eyes,  from  their  ambush  of  folds,  peer  forth  with  a  snaky  gleam. 
The  "  brave,"  propped  up  against  the  Post-Offlce  wall,  dozes  with  his 
bunch  of  rabbits  (in  their  season)  dangling  in  his  hand,  and,  working 
his  jaws  mechanically  on  his  quid,  dreams  of — rum.  A  bronze-tinted 
papoose  is  strapped  under  a  filthy  basket  at  the  mother's  back,  and  its 
impassive  little  face  surveys  life  over  her  shoulder  with  a  perfect  phi- 
losophy. This  trio  has  drifted  from  one  of  the  wigwam-hamlets  near 
Dartmouth,  and  thither  they  will  return  when  their  wares  are  disposed 
of,  if  they  do  not  fall  victims  to  rum  and  the  station-house. 

The  town  of  Dartmouth^  population  between  4,000  and  6,000,  is 
reached  by  ferry  from  the  foot  of  George  St.,  or  by  a  railway  which 
crosses  the  harbor  at  the  Narrows.  The  town  contains  some  fine  pri- 
vate residences,  whose  owners  do  business  in  Halifax.  The  chief  points 
of  interest  at  Dartmouth  are  Fort  Clarence,  already  mentioned,  the 
Sugar  Refinery,  and  the  imposing  gray-stone  and  granite  structure  of 
the  Mount  Hope  Lunatic  Asylum.  Fort  Clarence  guards  what  is  known 
as  the  "  Eastern  Passage,"  which  was  supposed  to  be  impassable  for 
large  ships  till  the  occasion  on  which  the  Confederate  cruiser  Talla- 
hassee made  her  escape  by  it.  The  Confederate  ship  was  blockaded 
in  Halifax  harbor  by  an  American  squadron ;  which,  however,  paid  no 
attention  to  the  Eastern  Passage,  supposing  it  unnavigable.  The  Tal- 
lahassee took  advantage  of  a  favoring  wind  and  tide,  and  made  good 
her  escape  by  the  dangerous  channel.  A  few  miles  from  Dartmouth 
are  the  Montague  Gold  Mines,  the  pleasant  summer  resort  of  Cow  Bay, 
with  its  surf-bathing,  and  the  pretty  chain  of  the  Dartmouth  Lakes. 
Dartmouth  has  some  important  manufacturing  interests,  among  them 
a  famous  skate-factory  and  a  rope-walk. 

From  Halifax  as  a  starting-point  the  traveler  has  many  pleasant 
side  trips  at  his  command.  He  may  go  by  boat  eastward  to  Canso  and 
Cape  Breton  and  the  west  coast  of  Newfoundland ;  to  St.  John's, 
Newfoundland,  and  St.  Pierre ;  westward  along  the  Atlantic  coast  to 
Yarmouth  and  intermediate  ports  by  boat  or  stage,  or  up  the  Annapo- 
lis Valley  as  far  as  may  be  desired.  If  the  traveler  intends  going  to 
Boston  via  Yarmouth,  or  St.  John,  he  will  "  do  "  the  Annapolis  Val- 
ley and  "Land  of  Evangeline"  en  route.  If,  however,  he  intends 
taking  the  steamer  Halifax  at  Halifax,  for  Boston,  he  will  do  well  to 


/ 


HALIFAX. 


227 


make  a  round  trip  down  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  pcninHiiIa,  by  Hteamerg 
Bridrteinatcr  or  CHi)  of  St.  John.,  or  by  8tape,  through  Margaret's  Bay, 
Chostcr,  Mahonc  Hny,  and  Lunenburg  to  Hridgcwater,  thence  by  the 
admirable  new  cars  of  tlic  Central  Xova  Scotia  R.  R.  across  the  prov- 
ince  to  Middleton,  and  thence  by  (he  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry.  through 
the  regions  imniortalized  by  Longfellow,  through  Wolfvillc  and  Wind- 
sor,  back  to  Halifax.  Tiiis  is  in  every  way  a  most  enjoyable  trip,  with 
many  points  of  interest  along  tlic  journey.  A  more  extended  and  di- 
versified round  trip  may  bo  taken  by  continuing  down  the  coast  from 
Bridgewater  to  Yarmouth,  thence  back  to  Halifax  by  the  Dominion 
Atlantic  Ry.,  or  from  Digby  to  St,  John  by  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry. 
S.  S.  Line.  The  places  on  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry.  and  the  Central 
Nova  Scotia  will  be  referred  to  later  in  connection  with  the  trip  to 
AnnapoHn  and  beyond ;  and  the  i)laces  between  Halifax  and  Bridge- 
water  in  our  account  of  the  voyage  down  the  Atlantic  coast. 


y         NEWFOUNDLAND. 

To  St.  John'^,  Newfoundland,  one  may  go  by  the  steamers  of  the 
Halifax  and  Newfoundland  S.  S.  Co.,  Canada  and  Newfoundland  S.  S. 
Co.,'<rr  Red  Cross  Line.  The  time  occupied  in  the  passage  is  about 
48  hours,  a  steamer  of  each  of  which  line  makes  fortnightly  trips. 
Cabin  passage  from  Halifax  to  St.  John's  is  $20 ;  round  trip,  $40. 
The  steamer  of  the  Red  Cross  Litie,  plying  between  New  York,  Hali- 
fax, and  St.  John's,  makes  fortnightly  sailings,  and  charges  |!18  be- 
tween Halifax  and  St.  John's ;  $34  for  the  round  trip.  To  St.  Pierre 
one  may  go  from  Halifax  by  the  steamship  St.  Pierre,  of  the  Anglo- 
French  S.  S.  Co.,  sailing  every  alternate  Wednesday,  or  by  the  coastal 
steamer  from  St.  John's.  The  fare  from  Halifax  is  $15,  for  the  round 
trip  $25,  which  includes  meals  and  berth;  the  fare  from  St.  John's  is 
from  $G  to  $7. 

The  Island  of  Newfoundland,  dubbed  "  England's  oldest  col- 
ony," is  a  self-governing  province  not  connected  with  the  Canadian 
Confederation.  It  forms  the  eastern  wall,  as  it  were,  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence ;  is  419  miles  long  by  300  in  extreme  breadth ;  and  owing 
to  its  numerous  bays  it  has  an  enormous  extent  of  coast-line.  Its  fish- 
eries are  perhaps  the  richest  and  most  famous  in  the  world ;  its  sealing 
industry  is  vast  and  picturesquely  perilous ;  its  climate  is  almost  as 
harsh  and  forbidding  as  its  coasts,  but  there  are  sections  very  favor- 


228 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


able  to  ngriculturo ;  itfl  lakes  and  rIvcrH  Hwarm  with  game-fiBh,  its  wil. 
derncsHos  with  deer  and  wild-fowl ;  like  Ireland,  it  has  no  snake  or 
vcnotnous  reptile ;  its  mineral  wealth,  hardly  at  all  developed,  consists 
of  silver,  copper,  Iciid,  iron,  plumbago,  manganese,  coal,  gypsum,  etc. ; 
its  Indians,  the  strange  Bcothucs,  have  gone  into  that  limbo  whither 
the  dodo  and  the  great  auk  preceded  them ;  the  vast  interior  is  in  great 
part  unexplored,  and  is  as  full  of  mystery  as  the  colonial  politics. 

Tlie  hutory  of  Newfotmdland  begins  with  the  Norsemen  in  the 
tenth  century.  Its  fishing  waters  were  frequented  by  Norman  Breton 
and  Basque  ti^hermen  during  the  fourteenth  century.  It  was  visited 
by  John  Cabot  in  1497,  by  the  Portuguese  explorers  Cortereal  and 
Vcrazzano  in  1501  and  1524  respectively,  and  by  Cartier  in  1634.  In 
1 583  it  was  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  England  by  Sir  Hum- 
phrey Gilbert,  and  settlements  were  speedily  established  along  the 
coast.  About  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century  and  in  the  early 
part  of  the  eighteenth  the  south  and  east  coasts  were  the  scene  of 
fierce  struggles  between  the  French  and  English.  By  the  Treaty  of 
Utrecht,  signed  in  1713,  the  French,  while  relinquishing  all  claim 
to  the  island,  were  secured  in  the  possession  of  the  rocky  islets  of 
St.  Pierre  and  Miqiiclon,  and  of  certain  fishing  privileges  along  the 
west  coast.  The  provisions  relating  to  these  privileges  were  very  stu- 
pidly drawn  up  by  the  British  commissioners,  whence  arises  in  the 
present  day  no  end  of  difficulty  and  disagrceableness.  The  island  was 
formed  into  a  province  in  1728.  In  1761  and  1796  the  French  made 
vigorous  efforts  to  conquer  it.  In  1832  was  convened  the  first  Legis- 
lative Assembly.  By  a  census  taken  in  1891  the  population  was  placed 
at  202,040.  Now,  in  1891,  in  quarrels  with  England  and  France  and 
Canada,  the  ancient  colony  is  endeavoring  to  manufacture  history  at 
short  notice.  Her  position  as  gate-keeper  to  the  St.  Lawrence  makes 
it  forever  impossible  that  she  should  bo  permitted  by  England  to  be- 
come a  member  of  the  American  Union. 


St.  John's. 

The  city  of  St.  John^s,  the  capital  of  Newfoundland,  is  on  the  extreme 
eastern  coast  of  the  peninsula  of  Avalon.  It  is  nearer  Europe  than  any 
other  port  of  North  America.  It  is  1,076  miles  from  Montreal,  and  1,730 
miles  from  Cork.  The  approach  from  the  sea  is  very  impressive.  The 
deep,  secure  harbor  is  gained  by  a  strongly  fortified  passage  called  the 
Narrows,  where  the  lofty  sea-wall  of  the  island  is  rent  asunder.    The  city 


ish,  ita  wit. 
>  Hnake  or 
d,  consists 
)8utn,  etc. ; 
bo  whither 
is  in  great 
itics. 

len  in  the 
an  Breton 
as  visited 
ereal  and 
1634.     In 
Sir  Hum- 
ilong  the 
the  early 
scene  of 
Treaty  of 
all  claim 
islets  of 
ilong  the 
very  stu- 
;s  in  the 
iland  was 
ich  made 
St  Legis- 
is  placed 
ance  and 
listory  at 
!e  makes 
id  to  be- 


extreme 
than  any 
nd  1,730 
^e.  The 
illed  the 
The  city 


r 


iT^ 


; 


; 


c 


V 


& 

A 


eg 


BT.   JOHN  fl. 


229 


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< 


^ 

^ 


is  built  ciiicfly  of  wood,  and  \»  »tv\k\u[;  mainly  from  its  sittintion.  Small 
aa  the  houses  arc,  and  dingy  iis  arc  the  stroots,  tiio  city  contuins  great 
wealth.  Tlie  chief  liotol^  are  the  AV/"  Athmtic,  a  liouse  equipped 
with  all  modern  convenience-  and  tlie  In  ion,  on  Water  St.  Livery 
charges  arc  very  moderate,  and  cuniiigos  may  be  hired  at  ul)out  80 
cents  an  hour.  The  population  of  St.  JoIui'h,  according  to  tlie  last 
census,  is  31,142.  The  chief  trade  is  in  tisli  and  fish  products,  and  in 
seal-oil,  for  the  refining  of  which  tliere  are  several  oi*tal)lishments ; 
but  the  merchants  of  the  city  do  also  a  heavy  local  trade  in  supplying 
the  "  out-harbors,"  as  the  other  towns  of  tlie  island  are  styled.  Tlie 
city  has  tanneries,  breweries,  biscuit,  shoe,  and  furnitin-e  factories.  It 
also  has  one  of  the  best  graving-docks  in  America.  At  times,  on  the 
arrivol  of  the  sealing  steamers,  there  is  stir  enougli  in  tlie  streets  of 
St.  John's  to  sotisfy  the  demands  of  a  more  nietro{)olitan  center,  and 
the  wita  and  sticks  of  the  police  are  sometimes  taxed  to  keep  order. 
For  about  a  month  in  each  summer  the  city  is  thronged  to  ovcrHowing 
with  people  from  the  north  and  west  coasts,  selling  their  produce  and 
laying  in  provisions  for  the  winter.  The  main  business  artery  is  Wmcr 
St.,  occupied  by  the  wliolesale  supply-stores  of  the  merchant  princes 
of  St.  John's,  and  by  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  grog-shops  and  cheap  eat- 
ing-houses. Water  St.  is  unpretentiously  but  massively  i)uilt.  On  its 
northern  portion  stands  the  Custom-House.  The  Market-House  and 
PostOffice  occupy  a  commodious  building  about  its  center,  and  at  its 
south  end  are  the  bridge  and  causeway  which  cross  tlie  head  of  the 
harbor.  The  most  important  structure  in  the  colony  is  the  great  Jio- 
man  Catholic  Cathedral,  crowning  the  ridge  which  overlooks  the  city 
and  the  harbor.  The  Cathedral,  with  the  Bishop's  Palace,  Convent, 
and  St.  Bonaventure's  College,  which  cluster  about  it,  cost  1500,000, 
The  Cathedral  itself  is  a  vast  pile,  built  of  stone,  much  of  which  was 
brought  over  from  Ireland.  It  has  twin  towers,  an  immensely  long 
cloister,  and  no  aisles.  In  the  grounds  before  it  stand  a  number  of 
statues,  among  them  one  of  St.  Peter.  Tlie  Irish  Catholics  form  a 
great  majority  of  the  citizens  of  St.  John's. 

About  half-way  up  the  slope  stands  the  not  yet  completed  Cathedral 
of  the  Chvrch  of  England.  When  finished  this  will  be  a  very  beautiful 
Gothic  structure.  It  was  designed  by  the  great  Englisli  architect.  Sir 
Gilbert  Scott,  and  its  completion  is  delayed  by  lack  of  funds.  On 
what  is  called  the  Military  Road,  running  along  the  high  ridge  occupied 
by  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  stand  the  old  Barracks,  and  also  the 


230 


ST.    JOHN  8. 


Parliament  Building,  a  massive  stone  structure,  with  a  really  fine  Doric 
portico.  North  of  the  Parliament  House  is  Government  House,  occupy- 
ing pretty  and  well-kept  grounds.  The  other  important  public  build- 
ings are  the  penitentiary,  hospital,  Athenaeum  Building,  educational 
institutions,  and  poorhouse.  The  city  rejoices  in  a  rickety  suburb  with 
the  euphonious  appellation  of  Maggotty  Cove,  through  which  we  pass 
to  climb  to  the  vantage-ground  of  Signal  Hill.  On  Signal  Hill  is 
the  Observaiori/,  from  which,  and  from  many  another  point  of  vantage 
on  the  edge  of  precipitous  steeps,  we  look  down  upon  the  city  and 
the  harbor  in  their  windless  amphitheatre.  The  crest  of  the  hill  is 
clothed  with  soft,  fine  grasses.  Amid  them  lies  a  deep  lake  360  ft. 
above  the  sea.  Passing  the  great  stone  barracks  we  come  at  length 
to  a  little  battery,  perched  on  the  edge  of  a  cliff  500  ft.  high,  from 
which  we  look  down  directly  into  the  Narrows,  thronged  with  the  sails 
of  its  fishing  fleets.  Immediately  below  is  the  place  where,  in  war- 
time, the  harbor  is  closed  by  great  chains  swung  from  shore  to  shore. 

As  Paris  is  called  the  gayest  of  capitals,  St.  John's  has  been 
characterized  by  Warburton  as  the  fishiest.  "  Round  a  great  part  of 
the  harbor  are  sheds,  acres  in  extent,  roofed  with  cod  split  in  half, 
laid  on  like  slates,  drying  in  the  sun,  or  rather  the  air,  for  there  is  not 
much  of  the  former  to  depend  upon."  These  curious  structures,  which 
Mr.  Warburton  called  sheds,  are  known  to  Newfoundlanders  as  "  flakes," 
and  are  a  prominent  feature  of  the  landscape  of  every  settlement,  con- 
veying a  characteristic  odor  to  the  breezes.  This  is  a  grievance  to 
which  one  readily  gets  accustomed.  In  the  course  of  her  career  New- 
foundland's capital  has  suffered  severely  from  fires,  notably  in  1816 
and  1817.  In  1860  St.  John's  was  the  scene  of  a  ferocious  riot,  when 
a  mob  of  Irish  Catholics  took  possession  of  the  town  and  began  pillag- 
ing the  stores.  The  Koyal  Newfoundland  Companies  were  ordered  out 
and  posted  before  the  Market-House,  where  they  stood  for  hours  mak- 
ing no  reply  to  the  taunts  of  the  rioters.  As  night  fell,  however,  they 
were  fired  upon  by  the  mob ;  whereupon  they  responded  with  a  de- 
structive volley.  At  this  juncture  the  bells  of  the  cathedral  sounded  an 
imperious  summons  to  the  rioters,  who  flocked  thither,  and  were  ordered 
by  the  bishop,  on  pain  of  excommunication,  to  keep  the  peace.  Since 
then,  and  up  to  the  very  latest  days,  there  have  been  other  almost 
equally  discreditable  disturbances  in  the  island,  arising  out  of  religious 
disagreements. 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.   JOHN  S. 


231 


/I 


IglOUS 


Trips  from  St.  John's. 

In  the  matter  of  railroads  the  Ancient  Colony  was  until  recently 
behind  the  times.  Her  settlements  are  a  mere  fringe  about  the  coast, 
and  communication  is  carried  on,  for  the  most  part,  with  picturesque 
irregularity,  by  means  of  coasting-vessels.  A  railroad  has  been  com- 
pleted from  St.  John's  through  the  interior  to  Port  an  Basque  on  the 
southwest  coast,  which  will  largely  develop  the  country.  Connection 
is  with  the  steamer  Bruce  for  North  Sydney,  Cape  Bt'cton,  where  the 
Intercolonial  Ry.  gives  communication  with  all  points  west.  The  first 
railroad  built  runs  from  St.  John's  around  Conception  Bay  to  Holy- 
rood,  and  Harbor  Grace  (85  miles),  and  up  the  east  coast  to  the  town 
of  Trinity  and  on  to  the  copper-mining  districts  of  Hall  Bay.  The  ex- 
periences of  the  engineers  in  locating  this  railroad  were  thrilling  enough 
to  have  occurred  in  central  Africa.  They  were  attacked  at  times  by 
men  with  shot-guns  and  women  with  pitchforks,  who  dreaded  lest  their 
labors  should  result  in  an  increase  of  taxation.  The  train  reaching 
there  at  3.45  p.  m.  leaves  St.  John's  about  10  a.  m.  for  Harbor  Grace. 

Around  St.  John's  there  are  some  very  beautiful  and  striking  drives 
over  firm  and  well-kept  roads.  One  of  the  most  charming  of  these  is 
by  way  of  the  lovely  little  Quiddy-Viddy  Lake  and  Bally  Haly  Bog  to 
the  deep,  wooded  lake  of  Vii'yinia  Water,  where  was  once  the  summer 
residence  of  Newfoundland's  Governors.  The  drive  may  well  be  ex- 
tended over  the  high  and  moss-grown  reaches  of  the  "  Barrens "  to 
Logic  Bay  and  Torbay,  where  one  gets  a  good  idea  of  the  Newfound- 
land coast  scenery.  This  scenery  is  characterized  by  an  almost  total 
absence  of  beaches,  'he  shores  consisting  of  lofty  cliffs,  about  whose 
bases  thunder  the  mightiest  surges  of  the  Atlantic.  Every  here  and 
there  this  forbidding  wall  is  broken  by  a  little  opening  called  a  '  cove," 
usually  deep  enough  to  serve  as  a  haven  for  the  fishing-boats.  At  the 
head  of  the  cove  comes  tumbling  in  from  the  heights  a  brown  trout- 
brook,  and  here  gathers  a  cluster  of  fishermen's  cottages,  in  an  ideal 
seclusion.  Another  lovely  drive  is  to  the  wildly  romantic  scenery  of 
Portugal  Cove,  on  Conception  Bay.  At  this  point  is  a  comfortable 
country  hotel,  past  whose  windows  roars  and  flashes  a  white  cascade. 

If  one  is  fond  of  coaching,  he  may  go  by  stage  over  matchless  roads, 
through  the  sweet  pastoral  scenes  of  what  is  called  the  Strait  Shore 
of  Avalon  to  the  villages  of  Blackhead  (4  miles),  near  which  is  Cape 
Spear,  the  most  easterly  point  of  North  America;  Petty  Harbor  (10 


232 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.   JOHN  8. 


miles),  near  which  is  the  strange  plienomenon  called  the  "  Spout,'*  a 
hole  in  the  vaulted  roof  of  a  deep  sea-cavern,  through  which,  during 
storm  and  high  tides,  the  water  is  hurled  in  a  huge  fountain  visible  for 
miles  about;  Bay  Bulls  (19  miles).  Witless  Bay  (22  miles),  Mobile  (24 
miles).  Toad  Cove  (26  miles).  La  Manche  (32  miles),  Brigus  (34  miles), 
Cape  Broyle  (38  miles),  with  fine  salmon-fishing  in  the  river  that  flows 
around  the  foot  of  Hell  Ilill,  Caplin  Cove  (4'2  miles) ;  the  important 
little  town  of  Ferrylmid  (44  miles),  where,  in  1637,  Sir  David  Kirk 
established  himself  when  he  was  appointed  Count  Palatine  of  New- 
foundland; Aquafort  (48  miles),  Fermeuse  (51  miles),  Renewse  (54 
miles),  and  the  deadly  ship-wrecking  headl.and  of  Cape  Race,  the 
southeast  point  of  Newfoundland  (64  miles).  About  50  miles  off  Cape 
Race  are  the  famous  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland,  almost  as  noted 
for  their  naval  battles  as  for  their  cod-fisheries.  On  the  Grand  Banks, 
in  1755,  the  French  men-of-war  Alcide  and  Lys  were  captured,  after  a 
furious  battle  of  five  hours,  by  the  British  frigates  Dunkirk  and  De- 
fiance. In  the  same  neighborhood,  on  August  19,  1812,  took  place  the 
famous  battle  between  the  American  frigate  Constitution,  of  44  guns, 
and  the  British  ffigate  Guerriere,  38  gvms,  which  resulted  in  an  over- 
whelming victory  for  the  American  ship.  The  Banks  extend  four  degrees 
north  and  south  and  five  degrees  east  and  west.  They  consist  of  vast 
submerged  sand-banks,  strewn  with  sea-shells,  lying  in  water  from  30 
to  60  fathoms  deep.  Here,  from  February  to  November,  feed  the  cod 
in  innumerable  swarms,  and  the  fisheries  give  employment  to  over  100,- 
000  men  of  all  nations.  "  Throughout  a  great  part  of  the  spring,  sum- 
mer, and  fall,  the  Grand  Banks  are  covered  by  rarely  broken  fogs, 
through  which  falls  an  ahuost  incessant  slow  rain.  Sometimes  these 
fogs  are  so  dense  that  objects  within  60  ft.  arc  totally  invisible,  at 
which  times  the  fishing- vessels  at  anchor  are  liable  to  be  run  down  by 
the  great  Atlantic  steamers.  The  dangerous  proximity  of  icebergs 
(which  drift  across  and  ground  on  the  Banks)  is  indicated  by  the  sud- 
den and  intense  coldness  which  they  send  through  even  a  midsummer 
day,  by  the  peculiar  white  glare  in  the  air  about  them,  and  by  the  roar- 
ing of  the  breakers  on  their  sides." 

The  tourist  who  wishes  to  visit  the  N.  E.  const  of  Newfoundland 
and  the  shores  of  Labrador,  will  need  to  allow  himself  a  clear  month 
for  the  trip,  and  should  select  the  midsummer  season.  As  Newfound- 
land is  not  a  portion  of  Canada,  this  hand-book  will  do  little  more 
than  indicate  routes,  etc.     The  steamers  of  the  northern  coastal  line 


!  "Spout,"  a 

which,  during 
ain  visible  for 
9),  Jlobile  (24 
:us  (34  miles), 
ver  that  flows 
the  important 
r  David  Kirk 
itine  of  New- 
Renowse  (54 
J  Race,  the 
iiiles  off  Cape 
nost  as  noted 
Jrand  Banks, 
tured,  after  a 
kirk  and  De- 
5ok  place  the 
,  of  44  guns, 
d  in  an  over- 
four  degrees 
nsist  of  vast 
iter  from  30 
feed  the  cod 
to  over  100,- 
spring,  sum- 
roken  fogs, 
?times  these 
nvisible,  at 
un  down  by 
of  icebergs 
by  the  sud- 
inidsummer 
i)y  the  roar- 

vfoundland 
lear  month 
Newfound- 
little  more 
loastal  line 


The  Monthly  Mail  Tnda  from  HdU's  liity  to  L'odroy. 


V 


I 


^ 


1 


1j 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.   JOHN*S. 


233 


•o 


leave  St.  John  every  alternate  Monday  during  the  summer,  and  intend- 
ing passengers  should  communicatu  with  the  agents,  Messrs.  Bowring 
Bros.,  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland.  The  fare  to  the  town  of  Trinity  is 
$5,  and  to  Bett's  Cove  or  Nipper's  Cove,  where  the  Labrador  steamer  is 
taken,  about  |10.  On  the  Labrador  boats  the  charge,  including  meals 
and  staterooms,  is  $2  a  day.  The  fare  is  very  plain,  but  the  steamers 
are  strong  and  seaworthy.  Labrador  is  an  intensely  interesting  country 
to  explore,  but  not  of  much  interest  to  the  traveler,  who  merely  takes  a 
hasty  look  at  its  grim  shores  and  i)asses  on.  It  is  hardly  worth  visiting 
unless  oik;  intends  to  do  it  thoroughly.  Then,  it  has  marvelous  and  al- 
most virgin  trout-and-salmon  fishing  to  offer,  and  strange  landscapes, 
and  wonderful  cataracts,  and  all  the  charm  of  the  mysterious  unknown. 


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03 


Along  the  Coast. 

The  steamers  of  the  Newfoundland  Coastal  Steamship  Co.  maintain 
a  regular  fortnightly  service  between  St.  John's  and  the  northern  out- 
ports.  Fares :  to  Trinity,  |;}.50 ;  to  Fogo,  $6.60 ;  to  Tilt  Cove,  |8 ;  to 
Battle  Harbour,  :^12. 

From  St.  John's  the  steamer  rounds  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  stops  off 
the  shelterless  roadstead  of  Bay  Verd,  an  important  fishing  village. 
Then  it  crosses  the  mouth  of  Trinity  Bay,  and  enters  the  magnificent 
harbor  of  Trinity,  one  of  the  best  on  the  American  coast.  Trinity 
has  something  less  than  2,000  inhabitants,  and  is  an  important  center 
and  county  town.  It  lies  115  miles  from  St.  John's.  Some  farming  is 
carried  on  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  town ;  and  opposite,  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  bay,  lies  a  seaport  with  the  exciulsite  name  of  "  Heart's  Con- 
tent." The  next  stopping-jtlace  beyond  Trinity  is  Catalina,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  about  1,500,  situated  on  a  secure  harbor  noted  for  its 
peculiar  tidal  phenomena.  The  next  call  is  at  the  ancient  town  of 
Bonavista,  with  nearly  3,000  inhabitants,  on  Bonavista  Bay.  The 
harbor  is  dangerously  exposed  to  nor'west  winds,  but  the  town  has  a 
growing  commerce.  It  lies  146  miles  from  St.  John's.  Bonavista  Bay 
is  37  miles  across  the  mouth  from  Cape  Bonavista  to  Cape  Freels,  and 
its  indented  shores  are  set  with  many  fishing  hamlets.  On  the  N. 
shore  is  the  important  harbor  and  village  of  G recnspofid,  on  a  small 
island  so  barren  that  soil  for  the  village  gardens  had  to  be  brought  in 
boats  from  the  mainland.  After  rounding  Cape  Freels  the  steamer 
sails  N.  W.  across  the  many-islanded  water  called  Hamilton  Sound. 
The  next  stoppage  is  at  the  town  of  Fogo^  on  Fogo  Island,  216  miles 


"234: 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.   JOHN  8, 


from  St.  John's.  On  Fogo  Island  are  outlying  settlements  with  such 
curious  names  as  "  Joe  Batt's  Arm,"  "  Seldom-come-by,"  and  "  Little 
Scldom-come-by."  Leaving  Fogo,  the  steamer  enters  a  very  wilderness 
of  picturesque  islands,  and  stops  at  the  important  town  of  Twillingatey 
the  capital  of  the  northern  division  of  Newfoundland.  The  town  has 
about  3,000  inhabitants.  It  is  built  on  two  islands,  connected  by  a 
bridge.  The  neighborhood  is  famous  for  producing  the  choicest  speci- 
mens of  the  Newfoundland  dog,  jet  black  with  a  white  cross  on  the 
breast,  now  rare  and  costly.  Fourteen  miles  from  Twillingate  is  the 
large  fishing  village  of  Exploits,  with  about  600  inhabitants.  Near  by 
is  the  mouth  of  the  great  A'xploi/s  River,  navigable  in  large  portions  of 
its  course.  It  runs  through  a  low  and  well-wooded  country.  The 
Grand  Falls  of  the  Kxjdoits  are  145  feet  in  height.  Its  length  is  about 
150  miles.  Thence  the  steamer  crosses  the  broad  bay  of  Notre  Dame 
to  the  famous  mining  village  of  Tilt  Cove,  on  the  border  of  a  lovely 
lake.  The  village  has  about  800  inhabitants,  nearly  all  miners.  The 
mines  are  of  copper  and  nickel,  exceedingly  rich ;  and  an  excellent 
quality  of  marble  is  found  in  the  neighborhood.  Bett's  Cove  is  an- 
other important  mining  cehter,  and  indeed  all  the  country  about  Notre 
Dame  Bay  abounds  in  mineral  wealth,  and  its  population  has  been 
growing  rapidly  of  late  years.  A  highway  leads  across  the  island 
through  coal  areas  and  good  farming  lands  to  the  Bay  of  Islands  on  the 
W.  shore,  and  the  railway  to  the  southward  is  doing  much  to  develop 
this  region.  Here  the  coastal  steamer  turns  back  for  St.  John's,  and 
travelers  who  are  going  farther  N.  take  the  sturdy  Labrador  boat. 

Conception  Bay  and  the  South  Coast. 

The  traveler  who  has  come  as  far  as  St.  John's  should  certainly  take 
the  railroad  around  Conception  Bay.  Tlie  first  station  is  the  watering- 
place  of  Topsail,  12  miles  from  St.  John's.  Then  come  Manuels  (14 
miles);  Killigrews  (18  miles);  Seal  Cove  (24  miles);  Holyrood,  with 
a  population  of  400  (28  miles) ;  Harbor  Main,  at  the  head  of  Concep- 
tion Bay,  Salmon  Cove,  and  Brigus  Junction  (42  miles),  whence  we 
diverge  to  Brigus,  a  picturesque  town  on  a  lake  between  two  hills. 
Brigus  has  about  2,000  inhabitants  and  an  immense  fishing  fleet.  A 
magnificent  view  is  commanded  from  the  summit  of  Thumb  Peak,  600 
ft.  high,  or  from  the  bold  headland  of  Brigus  Lookout.  Not  far  from 
Brigus  is  the  fishing  village  of  Bay  Roberts,  most  of  whose  male  in- 
habitants spend  their  summers  fishing  on  the  Labrador  coast.    Ten 


TRIP8   FROM   ST.   JOHNS. 


235 


\ 


miles  from  Brigus  Junction  is  Ilnrbor  Grace  Junction.  Harder 
Grace  (84  miles  from  St.  John's)  is  tlie  second  town  of  important  u 
Newfoundland.  It  has  a  population  of  7,000,  and  is  an  important  trade 
center.  Its  harbor  is  roomy  but  much  exposed  to  the  sea,  except  close 
to  the  city  wharves,  where  a  lon;^  sand-beach  forms  an  excellent  natural 
breakwater.  The  city  is  mostly  built  of  wood,  and  not  striking  in  ap- 
pearance, liy  a  fire,  in  1889,  it  lost  its  finest  edifice,  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic cathedral.  From  Harbor  (Jrace  the  railroad  runs  across  the  penin- 
sula 15  miles  to  the  village  of  Heart's  Content,  already  referred  to, 
where  the  old  Atlantic  cable  has  its  western  terminus,  passing  Car- 
bonear,  8  miles  N.  of  Harbor  Grace.  This  is  a  town  of  something 
over  2,000  inhabitants,  and  a  great  fishing  center. 

From  Harbor  Grace  Junction  a  railroad  runs  to  the  old  town  of 
Placcntia,  on  Placentia  Bay,  84  miles  from  St.  John's.  Placentia  was 
in  old  times  an  important  French  stronghold,  and  successfidly  resisted 
many  British  assaults.  When  the  French  claims  were  surrendered  by 
the  Treaty  of  Utrecht,  the  garrison  and  inhabitants  of  Placentia  followed 
the  French  flag  to  Cape  Breton,  Under  British  occupation  an  impor- 
tant town  speedily  arose  at  Placentia,  which  has  of  late  years  gone 
rather  to  decay.  Five  miles  from  Placentia  is  Little  Placentia,  and  12 
miles  farther  N.  are  the  great  lead-mines  of  La  Mancho. 

The  S.  coast  of  Newfoundland,  from  Cape  Race  to  Cape  Ray,  may 
be  visited  by  the  steamer  of  the  Newfoundland  Coastal  Steamship  Co., 
which  leaves  St.  John's  on  alternate  Thursdays.  The  chief  points  of 
interest  after  rounding  Cape  Race  are  the  little  town  of  Trepassey,  on 
Trepassey  Harbor ;  the  excessively  dangerous  piece  of  coast  between 
Cape  Pine  and  St.  Shot's ;  the  town  of  St.  Mary's,  on  St.  Mary's  Bay, 
with  the  large  village  and  splendid  fishing  river  of  Salmonier,  a  few 
miles  distant;  Placentia,  already  referred  to  (fare,  $4),  and  Burin 
(fare,  |5),  on  the  Burin  Peninsula,  forming  the  western  boundary 
of  Placentia  Bay.  The  harbor  of  Burin  is  perfectly  landlocked  by  cliffs 
200  ft.  in  height,  and  is  the  best  of  all  Newfoundland's  admirable  har- 
bors. The  town  has  a  large  trade,  and  a  population  of  1,850.  The 
surrounding  scenery  is  magnificently  bold,  and  the  tower  of  Burin  light- 
house is  perched  430  ft.  above  the  sea. 

From  Burin  the  steamer  sails  to  St.  Pierre  (fare,  $6.50),  a  barren 
rock  4  miles  across,  lying  under  the  flag  of  France.  The  town  is  largely 
built  of  stone,  and  is  crowded  together  on  its  harbor  at  the  E.  of  the 
island.    It  is  garrisoned  by  a  company  of  French  soldiers,  and  is  one 


236 


TRIPS   FROM   ST.   JOHN  8. 


of  the  most  peculiar  and  thoroughly  individmilizt'd  towns  in  North 
Americii.  It  is  famous  alike  for  its  quaintness  and  its  hospitality,  its 
rare  old  brandies  and  ports,  its  ubiquitous  codtish,  and  the  motley 
crowds  of  fishermen-sailors  that  throng  its  norrow  streets.  The  town 
ia  the  landing-place  of  two  of  the  transatlantic  cables,  which  add  to  its 
population  a  large  fo'ce  of  operators.  The  only  buildings  of  any  pre- 
tension are  Government  House  and  the  Roman  Catliolic  church  and 
convent.  The  best  inns  are  the  Pciiu'wn  Ifacnln  and  llotii  Joinville. 
Travelers  who  intend  visiting  St.  Pierre  should  nuike  a  point  of  read- 
ing an  illustrated  article  on  St.  Pierre,  by  S.  G.  W.  Benjamin,  in  the 
Century  Magazine  for  June,  1884. 

Heyond  St.  Pierre  lies  the  inij)ortant  fishing  district  of  Fortune 
Bay,  with  tlie  settlements  of  Fortune,  Harbor  Briton,  and  Belleorem, 
besides  many  tiny  hamlets  in  the  deep  coves.  Then  come  the  broad  inlet 
of  Hermitage  Bay,  and  the  settlement  of  Hermitage  Cove,  9  miles  from 
Harbor  liriton.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  are  the  rich  salmon- waters 
of  a  sheltered  inlet  called  the  Bay  of  Despair,  whence  old  Indian  trails 
lead  through  the  wilderness  to  the  Exploits  River  and  the  lakes  of  the 
interior.  From  Hermitage  Bay  westwai-d  to  Cape  Way  the  coast-line  is 
almost  straight,  but  fretted  with  innumerable  small  coves.  The  most  im- 
portant settlement  is  Burgeo,  a  village  of  YOO  inhabitants,  on  one  of  the 
Little  Burgeo  Islands.  On  the  mainland  opposite  are  the  .'ii/mon-fish. 
eries  of  Grandy's  Brook.  The  next  settlement  is  the  fishing  village  of 
La  Poile.  Six  miles  beyond  is  Garia  Bay,  with  several  villages  on  its 
shores ;  and  then,  9  miles  farther,  the  busy  little  port  of  Rose  Blanche. 
Thence  the  steamer  passes  Burnt  Islands,  and  then  Dead  Islands,  so 
named  from  their  innumerable  wrecks.  These  islands  have  been  made 
illustrious  by  the  heroic  deeds  of  George  Harvey,  who  dwelt  on  one  of 
them  during  the  early  part  of  the  century,  and  by  his  splendid  skill  and 
daring  saved  many  hundreds  of  lives.  The  houses  in  all  this  region 
seem  largely  built  of  wreckage,  and  furnished  with  the  spoils  of  ships. 

The  next  port  of  call  for  the  western  coastal  steamer  is  the  village 
of  Channel,  or  Port  mi  Basque,  4  miles  W.  of  the  Dead  Islands.  This 
is  an  important  station  for  the  transfer  of  cablegrams.  It  has  a  popu- 
lation of  about  'JOO,  and  famous  halibut-fisheries  in  the  vicinity,  and  is 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Newfoundland,  Northern  and  Western  Ry., 
which  penetrates  the  interior  of  the  island  and  runs  to  St.  John's. 
Steamer  connection  is  regularly  made  with  North  Sydney,  Nova  Scotia. 
Around  Cape  Ray,  3  or  4  miles  W.  of  Channel,  lies  the  vast  stretch  of 


V: 


a, 


si 


90 


:^ 


TUIPH    FROM    ST.   JOHN  ft. 


237 


coast  known  an  tlic  West  or  French  Shore,  the  ncciic  of  the  late 
unplcasantncHHos  bciween  France  and  Newfoundland.  Owing  to  the 
uncertainties  and  (lifliciilties  of  government  in  thiH  flection,  and  partly 
perhaps  to  the  danpoous  character  of  tlie  coast,  wliose  safe  harbors 
arc  widely  separated,  the  region  is  little  populated  and  less  civilized. 
Yet  it  has  great  natural  resources,  the  most  fertile  soil  and  fairest  cli- 
mate in  the  colony  ;  and  when  the  ditticulties  which  now  harass  it  have 
been  brought  to  some  satisfactory  solution,  it  will  doubtless  become 
one  of  the  most  prosperous  portions  of  the  island.  The  change  that 
would  bring  most  immediate  and  permanent  benefit  would  be  union 
with  the  Confederation  of  Canada. 


The  French  Shore. 

The  French  shore  is  not  likely  to  attract,  for  the  present,  any  but 
the  most  adventurous  tourists,  and  these  will  not  be  troubled  by  the 
lack  of  such  conveniences  as  highways,  hotels,  and  regular  communica- 
tion. The  region  may  be  visited  by  the  fortnightly  service  of  the 
Newfoundland  Coastal  Steamship  Co.,  by  the  frequent  coasting  schoon- 
ers, or  by  the  steamer  Ilarlaw,  from  Halifax  and  Cape  Breton  ports. 
The  total  extent  of  the  French  shore,  from  Cape  Ray  N.  to  Cape  Jiafd^ 
and  down  the  N.  E.  coast  to  Cape  St.  John.,  is  a  distance  of  460  miles. 
Three  miles  back  from  ('ape  Ray  is  tiie  lofty  Tabfc  Afountain,  1,700 
ft.  in  height,  with  the  summits  of  Sugar-Loaf  and  Tolt  Peak  in  the 
neighborhood.  Eighteen  miles  X.  of  Cape  Ray  is  Cape  Anguille,  and 
between  these  lofty  headlands  lie  the  fertile  valleys  of  the  Great  and 
Little  Codroy  Rivers,  with  a  scattered  farming  population.  North  of 
Cape  Anguille  is  the  great  inlet  called  St.  George'^  Bay,  running  50 
miles  inland  (fare  to  Bay  St.  (Jeorge,  from  St.  John's,  1^13).  Around  its 
fertile  and  wooded  shores  are  a  few  small  villages,  such  as  Sandy  Point 
and  Crabb's  Brook,  and  some  settlements  of  Micmacs.  There  are  rich 
coal  deposits  in  this  region.  From  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  flows  in 
George's  River,  may  be  reuched,  by  difii..Milt  trails,  the  strange,  deep 
waters  of  the  interior  lakes,  called  "Ponds,"  of  which  the  chief  is 
Grand  Pond,  60  miles  long  by  5  in  width.  These  waters  are  rarely 
seen  by  white  men,  and  are  reputed  to  swarm  with  fish,  as  do  their 
shores  with  game.  Toward  the  close  of  last  century  there  took  place 
on  Grand  Pond  a  great  battle  between  the  remnants  of  the  Bceothucs 
and  the  invading  Micmacs  from  Nova  Scotia,  resulting  in  the  extermi- 
nation of  the  Boeothucs.    The  northern  gate  of  St.  George's  Bay  is  Cape 


238 


TRIPS   FROM    RT.    JOHN  S. 


St.  George.  Twenty-fi'^c  miles  beyond  is  the  mouth  of  the  vast  harbor 
called  Port  au  Port,  penetrating  the  land  southward  to  within  a  mile 
of  St.  George's  IJay.  Next  comes  the  Bai/  of  Islands,  famous  for  its 
sublime  sfcenery.  The  soil  and  climate  here  are  adapted  to  agriculture, 
and  such  minerals  abound  as  marble,  gypsum,  and  limestone.  The 
villages  scattered  about  the  shore  contain,  in  all,  about  2,000  inhabit- 
ants. At  the  head  of  the  bay  flows  in  the  Humber  River,  150  miles  in 
length,  and  hemmed  about  its  mouth  with  towering  cliffs  of  white 
limestone.  About  25  miles  N.  of  the  Bay  of  Islands  is  Bonne  Bxy, 
renowned  for  its  herring-fisheries  (fare  from  St.  John's,  $15).  For  the 
next  70  odd  miles  the  coast-line  is  little  broken,  till  we  come  to  the  safe 
anchorages  of  the  Bay  of  Ingrenechoix.  Near  its  northern  boundary, 
called  Point  Rich,  is  the  fishing  village  of  Port  Saunders.  Some  15 
miles  farther  N.  is  the  beautiful  inlet  of  Bay  St.  John,  at  whose  head 
flows  in  the  almost  unexplored  Castors  River,  abounding  with  salmon  in 
the  lower  portion  of  its  course.  Then  comes  St.  Margaret's  Bay,  with 
the  tiny  hamlets  of  Old  F^rolle  and  New  FeroUe.  Then,  in  succession, 
the  inlets  of  Bay  St.  Genevieve,  Bay  St.  Barbe,  and  Flower  Cove,  with 
its  fishing  settlement.  Beyond  are  the  famous  north  shore  sealing- 
grounds,  where  the  coast  is  low  and  grassy ;  and  presently  we  enter  the 
barren  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  80  miles  long  by  12  in  width,  thronged  with 
seals  and  swept  by  icy  currents,  separating  Newfoundland  from  F^abra- 
dor.  The  coasts  and  islands  here  are  of  the  utmost  desolation.  At 
times  great  herds  of  ice-bergs  may  be  seen  trailing  slowly  through  the 
strait.  On  the  desolate  Isle  of  Quirpon  is  a  small  sealing  hamlet.  At 
the  eastern  entrance  to  the  strait  is  the  great  rock,  9  miles  long  by  3 
broad,  called,  in  strange  irony.  Belle  Isle.  On  its  wide  circumference 
there  is  but  one  point  where  a  landing  can  be  effected,  and  here,  twice 
a  year,  are  put  ashore  the  stores  for  the  lonely  lighthouse-keeper,  who 
has  not  even  a  bush  on  the  whole  island  to  cheer  his  solitude.  He  has 
brought  from  the  mainland  many  boat-loads  of  earth,  endeavoring  to 
form  a  garden-plot,  but  the  soil  is  speedily  swept  clean  off  by  the  terri- 
ble winds.  It  is  not  surprising  that  these  islands  of  Belle  Isle  and 
Quirpon  were  called,  of  old,  the  Isles  of  the  Demons,  and  were  repre- 
sented in  the  ancient  maps  as  peopled  with  devils  of  various  species. 
The  French  explorers  dared  not  land,  save  with  crucifix  in  hand,  on 
these  dreadful  shores,  where  their  ears  were  assailed  with  the  clamor 
of  demoniac  voices.  It  was  supposed,  moreover,  that  the  isles  were  the 
abode  of  a  malignant  and  terrible  species  of  griffin.     There  may  havq 


TRIPS    FROM    ST.   JOHN  S. 


239 


been  some  material  foundation  for  these  tales,  as,  even  so  late  as  the 
summer  of  1873,  the  coasts  were  ravaged  by  pai;ks  of  gigantic  wolves, 
who  devoured  a  number  of  people  and  besieged  the  settlers  in  their 
cabins.  A  romantic  legend  connected  with  these  islands  has  been  made 
the  subject  of  a  poem  called  "  Marguerite,  or  the  Isle  of  Demons,"  by 
Mr.  George  Martin,  of  Montreal.  On  the  expedition  which  sailed  under 
Roberval,  in  1542,  to  found  a  colony  at  Quebec,  were  the  Viceroy's 
niece,  the  Lady  Marguerite,  and  a  young  courtier,  her  lover,  whose  suit 
was  forbidden  by  Roberval.  Their  conduct  seems  to  have  enraged  or 
scandalized  the  Viceroy,  for  he  put  his  niece  ashore,  with  her  old 
nurse,  on  the  Isle  of  Demons,  now  Quirpon.  "  The  lover  leaped  from 
the  ship  and  joined  the  women,  and  the  fleet  sailed  away.  Then  the 
demons  and  the  hosts  of  hell  began  their  assaults  on  the  forsaken  trio, 
tearing  about  their  hut  at  night,  menacing  them  on  the  shore,  and 
assaulting  them  in  the  forest.  But  the  penitent  sinners  were  guarded 
by  invisible  bands  of  saints,  and  kept  from  peril.  After  many  months, 
wearied  by  these  fiendish  assaults,  the  lover  died,  and  was  soon  fol- 
lowed by  the  nurse  and  the  child.  Long  thereafter  lived  Marguerite 
alone,  until  finally  a  fishing-vessel  ran  in  warily  toward  the  smoke  of 
her  fire  and  rescued  her,  after  two  years  of  life  among  demons." 

The  eastern  portion  of  the  French  shore,  from  Cape  Bald  south- 
ward to  Cape  St.  John,  docs  not  call  for  detailed  mention  here.  There 
are  fishing  stations  on  the  harbors  of  Griguet,  Lunaire,  St.  Anthony ; 
the  coaling  station  of  Croc  Harbor  ;  Chouse  Brook  on  White  Bay ;  and 
La  Scie,  5  miles  from  Cape  St.  John.  The  most  important  waters 
are  Hare  Bay,  the  splendid  landlocked  harbor  of  Canada  Bay^  and 
the  magnificent  sheet  of  water,  45  miles  long  by  15  wide,  called 
White  Bay.  This  bay  has  fine  fisheries,  and  little  fishing  posts  are 
scattered  all  about  its  shore. 

Halifax  to  Bridgewater  by  the  Atlantic  Coast. 

The  steamer  City  of  St.  John  leaves  Halifax  every  Mcmday 
evening,  and  connects  with  the  Boston  steamers  at  Yarmouth  on 
Wednesday ;  returning,  leaves  Yarmouth  for  Halifax  every  Thursday 
morning.  The  faro  between  Halifax  and  Yarmouth  by  this  route  is 
$5 ;  return,  $8.  The  steamer  calls  at  Lunenburg,  Liverpool,  Lockeport, 
Shelbourne,  and  Barrington.  The  steamer  Bridgewater,  of  the  Coastal 
Steam  Packet  Co.,  sails  every  Wednesday  morning  at  8  o'clock  for 


^ 


240 


HALIFAX   TO   BRIDGEWATER. 


Lunenburg  and  Liverpool,  returning  Tiuirsday  morning.  Every  Satur- 
day morning  she  sails  for  Bridgcwater  direct,  returning  on  Monday 
morning.  Fares:  to  Lunenburg  or  Bridgcwater,  ^2  ;  return,  $3.  To 
Liverpool,  |3 ;  round  trip,  $5.  Meals  are  not  included  in  these  prices. 
After  [>assing  Sanibro,  the  boat  runs  some  distance  out  to  sea  before 
turning  westward,  dreading  the  perilous  Sanibro  Ledges,  On  the 
right  lies  Pennant  Jiay,  beyond  which  is  Mars  Head,  near  the  scene  of 
the  wreck  of  the  S.  aV.  Atlanlie  in  ISV'S,  by  which  no  fewer  than  535 
persons  perished.  Here  also  were  wrecked  the  British  war-ships  North, 
Helena,  and  Mars,  from  which  latter  ship  it  takes  its  name.  Next  we 
pass  the  broad  mouth  of  the  lovely  St.  MargareVn  Bat/,  in  whose  shel- 
tered recesses  lies  the  pleasant  summer  resort  of  the  same  name, 
reached  by  stage  from  Halifax.  There  are  several  little  settlements 
scattered  around  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  water,  the  most  important 
of  which  is  Hubbard's  ('ove.  From  the  head  of  the  bay  there  is  a 
pleasant  canoe  route,  with  short  portages,  across  the  province  to  the 
waters  of  the  Avon  and  Minas  Basin,  with  good  fishing  almost  all  the 
way.  Beyond  St.  Margaret's  Bay  we  enter  the  mouth  of  another  bay 
even  more  capacious  than  that  we  have  just  left,  and  only  second  to  it 
for  romantic  beauty.  In  some  weathers  the  steamer  sails  in  to  commu- 
nicate with  the  towns  of  Chester  and  Mahonc  Bay,  whose  harbors  are 
somewhat  shoal  for  large  vessels;  but  more  usually  she  sails  across 
the  mouth  in  the  direction  of  Cape  La  Have,  leaving  these  towns  to  be 
served  by  the  stage-coaches.  Chester  is  45  miles  by  stage  from  Hali- 
fax ;  40  miles  by  similar  conveyance  from  Windsor.  In  summer  it  is 
one  of  the  most  delightful  of  watering-places,  frequented  by  charming 
society  from  Halifax  and  from  the  Southern  States ;  but  in  winter  it 
has  earned  for  itself  the  pathetic  sobriquet  of  "  Chester-God-help-us." 
The  town  has  several  comfortable  hotels  (of  which  the  Lovctt  House 
is  the  best),  and  about  000  inhabitants  of  its  own.  Its  scenery  is  de- 
licious, its  climate  perfection  ;  and  one  may  row  and  paddle  and  sail, 
catch  cod  or  flounders  or  lobsters,  go  in  swimming,  or  loaf  and  invite 
his  soul,  as  agreeably  at  Chester  as  anywhere  else  one  can  think  of, 
in  Nova  Scotia  at  least.  A  delightful  excursion  from  Chester  is  to 
Mount  Aspotogan,  from  whose  summit  one  gets  a  magnificent  view. 
Within  easy  reach  of  Chester,  beyond  Chester  Basin,  is  the  unrivaled 
salmon-water  of  Gold  River,  frequented  also  by  splendid  sea-trout. 
All  along  the  drive  one  has  endlessly  changing  views  of  Mahone  Iiai/\? 
countless  islands,  on  some  of  which  are  cozy  little  Dutch  farms.    In 


J 


I 

I  I 


HALIFAX   TO  BEIDOEWATER. 


241 


p-us. 
House 
is  de- 
id  sail, 
invite 
nk  of, 
is  to 
view, 
ivalcd 
-trout. 
Bay'!? 
18.    In 


among  these  islands,  in  the  summer  of  1813,  the  American  privateer 
Young  Teaser  was  chased  by  two  British  war-ships.  When  the  Ameri- 
can ship  was  utterly  defeated,  her  officers  blew  her  up  rather  than  sur- 
render, and  every  man  on  board  perished.  The  largest  of  the  islands 
in  the  bay  is  Big  Tancook,  with  a  population  of  540.  The  most  inter- 
esting is  Oak  hiand,  one  of  the  best  accredited  of  the  innumerable 
claimants  to  the  honor  of  having  served  as  a  hiding-place  for  the 
treasures  of  Captain  Kidd.  Treasure-seekers,  sinking  pits  on  the 
island,  have  found  a  host  of  mysteries  but  no  money.  Shafts  have 
been  dug  several  hundred  feet,  through  layers  of  cut-stone  and  hewn 
timbers,  strange  grasses  from  the  tropics,  charcoal,  putty,  and  care- 
fully jointed  planks.  A  great  deal  of  capital  has  been  invested  in  the 
effort  either  to  find  the  treasure  or  to  solve  the  mystery  of  these  under- 
ground works ;  but  at  length  the  toilers  came  upon  great  stone  drains 
communicating  with  the  sea,  which  admitted  such  floods  of  water  that 
their  pumps  could  not  cope  with  it ;  and  the  diggings  have  been  aban- 
doned. The  little  town  of  Mahone  Bay  is  less  attractive  to  summer 
visitors  than  Chester,  but  is  far  more  business-like  and  prosperous.  It 
is  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  in  building  small  ships  tor  coasting 
trade.     It  has  a  population  of  about  1,000. 

Before  reaching  Cape  La  Have  the  steamer  turns  into  a  fair  and 
sheltered  haven  called  by  the  Indians  Malagash,  or  "  Milky,"  from  the 
soft  whiteness  of  its  surf,  and  draws  up  to  the  wharves  of  Lunen- 
burg. This  is  a  thriving  German  town  of  5,000^  inhabitants,  with 
large  ship-building  and  mining  interests,  and  an  extensive  trade  in  fish 
with  West  Indian  ports.  The  town  occupies  a  steep  slope,  and  shows 
up  most  effectively  as  one  approaches  it  from  the  sea.  Its  distance  by 
water  from  Halifax  is  45  miles,  and  its  chief  hotel  is  Kmg\s,  The 
town  and  county  of  Lunenburg  were  settled  in  1*753  by  Germans 
and  SwivSS,  and  the  German  language  and  German  customs  still  prevail 
in  the  district.  We  see  women  working  in  the  fields  like  men,  and 
cows  yoked  with  oxen  to  do  the  hauling  and  the  plowing.  The  great 
point  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lunenburg  is  the  peninsula  of 
Ovens  Head,  distant  about  10  miles.  On  this  peninsula  has  been  ob- 
tained, by  washings,  a  large  yield  of  gold.  The  place  is  remarkable 
for  the  strange  caverns  in  its  sea-face,  called  the  "  Ot>ms,"  whence  it 
derives  its  name.  These  penetrate  the  cliffs  for  several  hundred  feet,  and 
into  their  yawning  jaws  the  great  seas  roar  terrifically.  There  are,  not 
unnaturally,  many  curious  legends  and  traditions  connected  with  the 
16 


242 


HALIFAX  TO   BRIDGE  WATER. 


Ovens,  the  most  remarkable — and  least  credible — of  which  is  to  the 
effect  that  once  an  Indian,  being  swept  by  wind  and  current  into  the 
largest  aperture,  was  sucked  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  to  reappear, 
not  seriously  the  worse  for  his  astounding  adventure,  among  the  count- 
less isles  of  Tusket,  at  the  S.  W.  end  of  the  peninsula.  After  rounding 
the  well-named  headland  of  Point  Enragd,  the  steamer  enters  the  fine 
estuary  of  the  La  Have  River,  and  ascends  it,  on  certain  trips,  1 3  miles, 
to  the  town  of  Bridgewater.  The  shores  of  La  Have  are  rich  in  his- 
tory, the  district  having  been  an  important  center  of  Acadian  coloniza- 
tion. Here  the  chivalrous  knight  of  Jerusalem,  Isaac  de  Razilly,  had  his 
headquarters,  and  here  he  died,  untimely,  in  1637,  to  the  incalculable 
loss  of  Acadie.  Fort  La  II6ve  was  the  scene  of  many  a  well-fought  battle 
between  French  and  English  or  New-Englanders,  and  the  lover  of  anti- 
quarian research  will  find  the  neighborhood  a  fertile  field  for  his  work. 
The  sail  up  the  La  Have  is  very  beautiful,  and  the  town  of  Bridgewater 
is  most  fortunate  in  its  situation.  At  the  census  of  1881  it  had  a 
population  of  1,000,  but  it  is  growing  since  the  opening  of  the  Central 
Nova  Scotia  Railway,  which  has  its  offices  and  works  at  Bridgewater. 
Its  chief  business  is  the  lumber-trade,  and  its  great  saw-mills  are  a 
picturesque  feature  of  the  landscape.  The  chief  hotel  is  the  Falrview, 
$1.50  a  day.  At  this  point,  or  at  Lunenburg,  the  traveler  who  is  not 
going  on  down  the  coast  takes  the  railway  across  the  province  to  Mid- 
dleton,  on  the  Dominion  Atlantic  lly. 

Bridgewater  to  Yarmouth. 

After  leaving  Bridgewater  the  boat  rounds  Cape  La  Have,  and, 
after  a  run  of  9  miles  from  the  cape,  passes  the  mouth  of  Port  Med- 
way,  a  deep  inlet,  on  which  stands  a  lumbering  village  of  the  same 
name,  with  some  500  inhabitants.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  ship-build- 
ing at  this  little  town,  which  often  goes  by  the  name  of  Mill  Village. 
Leaving  behind  Coffin's  Island,  the  boat  rounds  into  Liverpool  Bat/,  a 
fine  harbor  with  well-peopled  shores.  At  its  head  flows  in  the  Liverpool 
River,  the  outlet  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Rostiignol,  the  largest  lake  of 
Nova  Scotia.  The  name  of  this  lake  is  the  old  name  of  the  harbor, 
given  it  by  De  Monts,  in  1604,  in  honor  of  a  French  captain  whose 
ship  he  had  confiscated  for  trading  in  the  harbor  without  authority — 
which  must  have  seemed  to  the  unhappy  captain  a  somewhat  barren 
compensation.    At  the  mouth  of  the  Liverpool  River,  on  a  rocky  shore, 


BRIDGEWATER   TO  YARMOUTH. 


243 


stands  the  pretty  and  well-kept  town  of  Liverpool,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  nearly  5,000  and  a  thriving  trade.  Lumbering,  fishing,  and  ship- 
building, the  stand-bys  of  all  this  coast,  are  the  chief  support  of  Liver- 
pool, but  she  is  also  developing  some  manufacturing  interests,  in  the 
lines  of  machinery,  leather,  matches,  and  iron-castings.  The  chief 
hotel  is  a  home-like  house,  called  Grove  Mansion.  The  town  is  a 
pleasant  place  to  visit  in  summer,  with  some  agreeable  society,  and 
fine  trout-fishing  in  the  surrounding  waters — whose  names  are  legion. 
During  the  War  of  1812  Liverpool  was  a  privateering  center,  and 
her  ships  preyed  fiercely  and  successfully  on  American  couimerce. 
In  days  more  ancient,  whose  history  comes  down  to  us  with  a 
somewhat  more  questionable  accuracy,  the  site  of  Liverpool  was  the 
realm  of  a  mighty  and  malignant  sorceress,  who  was  righteously,  if 
ungallantly,  attacked  by  the  Micmac  demigod  Glusktlp,  already  re- 
ferred to,  and  torn  to  pieces,  after  a  combat  which  the  stars  stood 
still  to  witness. 

Leaving  Liverpool  Bay,  the  boat  passes  the  bay  and  settlement  of 
Port  Mouton,  so  named  by  De  Monts  in  1604.  De  Monts  was  evident- 
ly impressed  by  Champlain's  lack  of  imagination  and  tendency  to  im- 
mortalize the  members  of  his  family  and  two  or  three  favorite  saints 
in  bestowing  names,  for  his  nomenclature  is  always  fresh  and  striking. 
The  harbor  in  question  received  its  title  from  the  circumstance  that 
here  a  sheep  jumped  overboard  and  was  drowned.  This  may  seem  to 
us  a  small  matter,  but  at  that  time  and  place  a  sheep  was  worth  con- 
sidering, and  its  loss  called  for  commemoration.  Leaving  out  of  sight 
Port  Mouton,  the  boat  passes,  at  some  distance,  a  number  of  small  fish- 
ing villages,  and  comes  to  the  thriving  little  town  of  Lockeport,  on 
Locke's  Island,  37  miles  from  Shclburne,  This  town  has  a  population 
of  1,918,  and  is  actively  engaged  in  the  West  India  trade  and  in  fishing 
on  the  Grand  Banks.  From  Lockeport  the  steamer  crosses  the  inlets  of 
Green  Harbor  and  Jordan  River,  with  their  settlements  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance ;  passes  Bony's  and  Government  Points,  and  runs  close  to  the 
striped  black-and-white  tower  of  Cape  Roseway  light.  Then  the  course 
turns  sharply  to  the  N.  E.,  and  the  boat  steams  up  the  noble  expanse 
of  Shflburne  Harbor,  so  perfect  in  its  freedom  from  winds  and  cur- 
rents that  it  finds  its  bane  in  its  very  perfection,  and  freezes  solid  dur- 
ing the  winter  as  if  it  were  a  fresh-water  lake. 

Shelburne  is  a  little  town,  with  its  2,055  inhabitants,  but  it  has  a 
romantic  history.     In  a  night  it  grew  to  a  great  city,  and  again  in  a 


244 


BEIDGEWATER   TO   YARMOUTH. 


day  it  fell  away  to  a  quiet  hamlet,  because  it  had  no  root  in  a  rich  sur- 
rounding  country.  The  matchless  harbor  attracted,  in  1783,  no  fewer 
than  12,000  of  the  United  Empire  Loyalists  in  their  flight  from  the 
new  republic.  Governor  Parr  came  in  with  a  fleet,  and  his  batteries 
saluted  the  city  of  Shelburne,  which  had  sprung  up  like  a  dream, 
throwing  Halifax  into  utter  insignificance.  But  like  a  dream  tho  city 
melted,  for  it  had  nothing  on  which  to  support  itself.  The  sealed  har- 
bor, during  the  winter,  was  discouraging.  The  country  around  was  a 
wilderness,  and  not  one  of  the  sort  that  could  be  made  to  blossom  like 
the  rose.  Two  and  a  half  millions  were  sunk  in  founding  the  city. 
Soon  all  the  money  was  gone,  and  then  the  people  went  too — some 
back  to  the  United  States,  some  to  more  hopeful  settlements ;  and 
Shelburne  was  left  with  a  population  of  400 — and  the  negro  suburb  of 
Birchtown  !  Even  now  the  town,  with  a  measure  of  returning  pros- 
perity, is  ludicrously  suggestive  of  a  very  small  boy  masquerading  in 
the  garments  of  a  very  large  grandfather.  There  are  remnants,  how- 
ever, of  the  old  loyalist  ^stock  in  shrunken  Shelburne,  making  society 
there  very  pleasant,  if  not  extensive.  The  chief  hotel  is  the  Atlantic 
House. 

Sailing  out  of  Shelburne  Harbor  the  steamer  rounds  Cape  Roseway, 
and  turning  eastward  passes  Negro  Island,  behind  which  lies  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Clyde.  The  next  point  of  interest  is  the  broad  water  of 
Port  Latour,  on  whose  shores  may  still  be  seen  the  remains  of  Claude 
de  la  Tour's  fort.  In  the  distance,  just  before  rounding  the  low  cape 
called  Baccaro  Point,  is  visible  the  village  of  Port  Latour.  Beyond 
the  point  lies  Cape  Sable  Island,  7  miles  long  by  3  in  extreme 
width,  with  about  1,700  inhabitants.  The  ibland  was  occupied  of  old 
by  the  Acadians,  who  in  1768  were  carried  away  to  Halifax,  after 
which,  in  the  course  of  a  quarter-century,  their  places  were  filled  by 
loyalists  from  New  England,  a  vigorous  stock.  The  extreme  southern 
point  of  the  island  is  the  ill-famed  Cape  Sable,  from  whose  conspicuous 
white  sands  comes  the  name.*  The  currents  and  fogs  and  ledges  off 
this  point  have  ^iven  Cape  Sable  its  sinister  reputation,  well  justified  by 
the  numerous  wrecks  of  which  it  has  been  the  author — chief  of  which 
may  be  mentioned  that  of  the  ocean  steamer  Hungarian.  Off  the  cape 
have  taken  place  some  important  sea-fights,  notably  that  in  which,  in 
1750,  the  French  ship  St.  Francis  was  captured  by  the  British  ship 

*  Cap  aux  Sables,  or  the  Cape  of  Sands. 


BRroGEWATER   TO   YARMOUTH. 


245 


Albany;  and  that  in  1812,  when  the  American  ship  Yankee  destroyed 
the  British  ahip  Koyiil  Bounty. 

Between  the  long  shores  of  Baccaro  and  Cape  Sable  Inland  is  the 
Barrington  PciHmge^  up  which  the  boat  runs  12  miles  to  the  busy  fish- 
ing settlement  of  Barrington,  with  a  population  of  about  1,600. 
The  district  was  settled  in  1763  by  immigrants  from  Cape  Cod,  who 
were  joined  later  on  by  loyalist  refugees  from  the  same  section  of  the 
republic.  A  few  miles  from  Barrington  lie  the  Sabimm  and  Great 
Pubnico  Lakes.  From  Barrington  the  steamer  runs  out  by  the  West 
Passage  to  the  open  Atlantic,  passes  Shag  Harbor  and  Bon  Portage 
Island,  and  at  a  distance  the  outlying  rocks  of  Seal  Island  and  Blonde 
Rock,  notorious  respectively  for  the  wrecks  of  the  steamship  Column 
bia  and  the  British  frigate  Blonde.  The  boat's  course  is  now  north- 
west. She  passes  the  mouth  of  Pubnico  Harbor,  where  lies  the  pros- 
perous French  town  of  Pubnico^  with  a  population  of  nearly  3,000  and 
a  large  fishing  fleet.  Argyle,  with  a  population  of  750,  is  near  by,  on 
Abuptic  Harbor.  After  crossing  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  of 
Tusket  River,  we  enter  the  myriad-islanded  waters  of  Tusket  Archi- 
pelago. The  scone  is  strangely  beautiful.  The  islands  are  of  every 
shape  and  size,  rising  boldly  out  of  ocean  depths.  They  stand  out 
from  the  coast,  unsheltered  by  beach  or  promontory,  and  the  tides  and 
storms  sweep  furiously  through  the  narrow  but  profound  passages  that 
sunder  them.  Some  of  them  are  named,  but  most  are  nameless.  A 
fanciful  explorer  might  imagine  he  discovered  the  origin  of  the  Tusket 
Islands  in  the  innumerable  Tusket  Lakes,  clustered  about  the  course  of 
the  Tusket  River.  These  lakes  ai-c  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  and  look^ 
like  spots  whence  patches  of  land  were  pulled  up  and  cast  into  the  sea 
to  form  islands.  It  is  strange  that  the  Micmac  genius  has  not  invented 
a  tradition  to  such  effect.  These  Tusket  l-akes,  it  may  be  said,  offer 
some  of  the  best  trout  and  salmon  fishing  of  the  province.  After  leav- 
ing the  Tuskets  Jeboguo  Point  is  rounded,  and  the  steamer  enters  the 
estuary  of    Yarmouth  River  and  ascends  the  narrow  channel  to  the 

Yarmouth  wharves. 

Yarmouth. 

The  chief  hotels  of  Yarmouth  are  the  Grand,  Lome,  and  Queen. 
Livery  charges  are  very  moderate,  and  according  to  agreement.  Fare  by 
steamer :  Yarmouth  to  Boston,  $5 ;  round  trip,  ^9 ;  Yarmouth  to  St. 
John,  by  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway,  $3.30 ;  to  Middleton,  $3.25 ;  to 
Halifax  (rail),  $6 ;  (boat),  '^5.  The  steamer  Alpha  leaves  Yarmouth  for 
St.  John  every  Monday  and  Thursday,  at  4  p,  m,,  returning  Tuesday  and 


246 


YARMOUTH. 


Friday  evenings.  The  Boston  simmers  leave  Yarmouth,  during  the 
suniiiinr  season  daily  on  arrival  of  Halifax  train ;  leave  Boston  daily 
at  4, HO  p.  M.  Fare  from  Halifax  to  lioston  via  Yarmouth,  $7.60; 
I'ound  trip,  $14.  The  unlimited  ticket,  allowing  one  to  stop  off  at  any 
place  or  placer,  along  the  way,  is  $8.50. 

The  prominence  attained  by  Yarmouth  as  a  shipping  port  is 
rather  in  spite  of  than  by  reason  of  her  harbor,  which  is  straitened 
and  tide-vexed,  and  troublesome  to  ascend.  But  she  has  triumphed 
brili-  atly  over  these  disadvantages,  and  now  ranks  fourth  among  Cana- 
dian ship-owning  ports.  St.  John,  Montreal,  and  Windsor  head  the  list. 
The  city  is  developing  its  harbor,  adding  steamers  to  its  sailing  fleets, 
and  keeping  abreast  of  modern  movements.  There  are  churches  of 
all  denominations,  an  excellent  Free  Public  Library  at  26  Centre  St., 
where  is  also  the  Yarmouth  County  Museum.  Directly  opposite  the 
city  is  Bay  View  Park,  which  is  reached  by  steamer.  It  is  one  of  the 
many  spots  where  Captain  Kidd  is  reported  to  have  buried  his  ill- 
gotten  wealth.  An  electric  street  railway  renders  easy  access  to  many 
points.  Yarmouth  has  )Voolen-mills,  foundries,  and  a  canvas-factory, 
and  so  is  not  wholly  dependent  upon  her  fishing  interests.  She  has 
many  handsome  private  residences,  surrounded  by  charming  and  well- 
kept  grounds;  and  she  is  noted  for  the  neatness  and  luxuriance  of 
her  numerous  hedges.  Through  the  hottest  months  of  summer  the 
lawns  and  trees  of  Yarmouth,  and  the  blossoms  of  her  tasteful  gar- 
dens, preserve  a  spring-like  freshness  under  the  soft  touches  of  the 
Atlantic  mists.  This  bright  and  hospitable  little  city  might  almost 
be  called  a  colony  of  ship-captains. 


-  i 


'  \ 


From  Halifax  eastward. 

The  steamers  Fastnet  and  City  of  Ghent  run  eastward  from  Halifax 
along  the  coast  to  and  through  the  Strait  of  Canso.  Places  on  the 
strait  are  more  conveniently  and  regularly  reached  by  the  rail  route 
already  described,  and  along  this  portion  of  the  Atlantic  coast  there  are 
few  points  of  interest  till  we  come  to  the  great  Bay  of  Chedabueto, 
and  the  little  but  sanguine  town  of  Canso  at  its  mouth.  Intermediate 
points,  such  as  Chezzetcook,  Musquodoboit  Harbor,  Jeddore,  Ship  Har- 
bor, Tangier,  Sheet  Harbor,  and  Sherbrooke,  are  best  reached  by  stage 
from  Halifax.  Chezzetcook  is  interesting  as  a  thoroughly  typical 
Acadian  settlement,  on  which  time  and  progress  work  no  changes. 
Its  quaint  people  afford  a  rich  field  for  observation  and  mat'^rial  for 


FROM   HALIFAX   EASTWARD. 


247 


any  number  of  racy  genre  pictures.  Musquodoboit  is  interesting  for 
its  gold-mines,  trout,  and  salmon,  ^'^ddore  baa  about  2,000  inhabit- 
ants, occupied  in  lumbering  ana  nslnng.  The  whole  region  is  full  of 
trout  waters.  Near  Ship  Harbor  is  a  noble  lake  of  the  same  name. 
Tangier,  60  miles  from  Halifax,  is  a  gold-mining  center  on  the  Tan- 
gier River,  or,  as  the  Indians  call  it,  Ahmagopakegcek,  which  means 
"  Tumbling  over  the  Rocks."  Twenty  miles  beyond,  at  the  head  of 
the  fine  inlet  called  Sheet  Harbor,  is  a  shipping  village  of  the  same 
name,  near  which  flow  in  the  noted  salmon-streams  called  Middle  and 
North  Rivers. 

Sherbrooke  is  on  St.  Mary's  Bay,  the  mouth  of  the  important 
stream  called  St.  Mary's  River.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  salmon- 
waters  in  the  province,  the  fish  running  almost  as  large  as  those  of 
the  Restigouche ;  and  it  is  not  less  famous  for  its  trout.  Within  a 
radius  of  10  or  12  miles  are  the  equally  noted  waters  (with  salmon, 
trout,  and  sea-trout  running  up  to  five  and  six  pounds)  of  the  Oegoggin, 
Gaspereaux,  and  Indian  Rivers,  whose  pools  and  runs  will  surely  satisfy 
the  most  exacting  angler. 

Canso  is  on  Chedabucto  Bay,  32  miles  S.  E.  of  Guysborough.  It 
has  a  population  of  about  1,500,  and  is  the  western  terminus  of  several 
of  the  Atlantic  cables,  whose  operators  give  the  town  some  pleasant 
society.  Near  this  point  a  company  of  Canadian  and  American  capital- 
ists is  proposing  to  erect  a  great  city,  to  be  called  the  Terminal  City, 
whence  fast  steamers  are  to  traverse  the  Atlantic  and  lightning  ex- 
presses rush  westward.  This  scheme  is  pretty  fully  developed,  and 
may  perhaps  be  carried  out,  in  which  case  the  splendid  Bay  of  Cheda- 
bucto would  emerge  from  its  present  obscurity.  The  town  of  Guys- 
borough  is  described  in  another  place. 

From  Halifax  to  Yarmouth  by  the  Dominion  Atlantic 

Railway. 

The  fare  from  Halifax  to  St.  John  by  this  route  is  $4.50 ;  to  Bos- 
ton, via  Yarmouth,  $7.50 ;  to  Yarmouth,  $6 ;  to  Annapolis,  $3.80 ;  to 
Bridgewater,  via  Middleton  and  Central  R,  R.,  $4. 75  ;  to  Kentville, 
$2.15;  Wolfville,  $1.95;  Windsor,  $1.38.  The  steamboat  express 
leaves  Halifax  in  the  morning  and  runs  through  to  Yarmouth  in  about 
seven  hours,  making  the  time  between  Halifax  and  Boston  less  than 
twenty-two  hours  in  all.  An  express  leaves  Halifax  for  Kentville  at 
3.10  in  the  afternoon.     Under  its  new  management  the  Dominion 


248 


FROM    HALIFAX   TO   YARMOUTH    BY    RAIL. 


Atlantic  Ry.  lias  become  a  very  attractive  road  to  travel  over.  Road- 
bed and  rolling-rttock  have  been  improved  and  handsome  parlor-cars 
added  to  the  fast  steamer  express,  known  aa  the  "Flyin{»  Bhienoae." 
.The  railway  is  now  thoroughly  worthy  of  the  country  it  traverses. 

From  Halifax  to  Windnor  Jundion  the  train  runs  over  the  rails  of 
the  Intercolonial  by  a  route  already  described;  and  Bedford  Basin 
takes  on  new  phases  of  beauty  in  the  fresh  light  of  the  morning. 
Three  miles  beyond  Windsor  Junction  is  the  station  of  Beaver  Bank  ; 
and  10  miles  farther  is  Mount  Uniacke,  the  seat  of  the  Uniacke  estate 
and  of  valuable  gold-mines.  The  settlement  lies  between  two  small 
rock-bound  lakes.  Another  10  miles  brings  us  to  the  picturesque  set- 
tlement of  Klhrshouse^  scattered  over  a  succession  of  winding  hills  and 
valleys.  This  was  once  a  very  flourishing  village,  with  a  pulp-mill 
and  large  lumbering  interests,  and  took  its  name  from  its  founder,  a 
wealthy  German  of  high  birth,  with  the  faihire  of  whose  business  came 
to  an  end  the  prosperity  of  the  village.  The  fine  Ellershausen  Place  is 
beautifully  situated  at  the  head  of  a  romantic  glen,  down  which  its 
grounds  extend.  A  few  miles  inland  from  Ellershouse  rises  Ardoise 
Mountain  (pronounced  Ardice),  whose  summit  is  the  highest  point  in 
the  province.  A  short  distance  beyond  the  village  the  train  crosses  the 
St.  Croix  River,  which  is  at  this  point  a  picturesque  stream,  with  mills 
clinging  to  its  rocky  banks.  The  St.  Croix  is  the  outlet  of  the  famous 
Ponhook  Lakes,  with  fine  scenery  and  excellent  trout-fishing.  The 
trout  of  Ponhook  run  to  a  good  size  and  are  very  game.  Owing  to 
their  comparative  inaccessibility  these  waters  are  not  over-fished,  and 
they  will  well  repay  a  visit  by  csinoe.  Three  miles  from  Ellershouse 
is  Newport  Station,  the  center  of  a  fertile  farming  district.  At  this 
point  heavy  shipments  of  plaster  are  made  by  rail.  All  about  New- 
port lie  populous  agricultural  villages,  reached  by  stage.  Three  miles 
beyond  Newport  we  pass  the  way  station  of  Three-Mile  Plains.  Yet 
3  miles  farther  and  we  run  out  upon  the  rich  marshes  between  the  St. 
Croix  and  Avon,  sweep  round  the  grassy  hill  of  Fort  Edward,  and  run 
into  the  excessively  unpretentious  station  of  the  town  of  Windsor. 

Windsor  is  a  wealthy  little  town  46  miles  from  Halifax,  with  a 
population,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  of  2,900,  but  now  esti- 
mated at  something  over  3,000.  Its  shipping  is  enormous,  and  it  ranks 
as  the  third  ship-owning  port  in  Canada.  It  is  largely  interested  in  the 
South  American  trade,  and  ships  great  quantities  of  white  and  blue 
plaster  from  the  Wentworth  and  other  quarries  to  Boston,  New  York, 


WINDSOR. 


249 


and  Philiuh'lpliiii.  In  tlio  neighborhood  are  tlic  gold-mines  of  linwdon^ 
hitcly  opened  and  proving  very  productive.  Windsor  has  also  large 
cotton,  furnittire,  and  leather  factories,  besides  an  extensive  iron-foun- 
dry. Its  only  public  buildinj^s  of  importance  are  the  Oourt-House  and 
the  handsome  7'ot/- (^>/JfrVf ;  but  the  plain  dark  pile  of  King's  Col- 
lege,  though  without  architectural  pretension,  is  impressive  by  reason 
of  its  commanding  site.  As  seen  from  the  station,  Windsor  is  not 
striking.  Many  of  the  buildings  in  Water  St.,  the  main  business  thor- 
oughfare, are  old  and  dingy  ;  but  the  street  is  rapidly  undergoing  a  reno- 
vation in  this  respect,  and  the  shops  are  beginning  to  wear  a  new  face. 
The  street  itself  is  usually  either  muddy  or  dusty,  and  the  visitor  who 
has  heard  of  the  beauty  of  Windsor  should  lose  no  time  in  getting  to  the 
top  of  one  of  the  rounded  hills  on  which  the  town  is  built.  From 
the  top  of  Fcrrt/  Hill,  either  when  the  tide  is  in,  or  at  sunset,  when 
the  vast  abyss  of  the  empty  channel  glows  like  polished  copper  about 
the  dark  piers  and  wharves  and  black  hulls  of  stranded  ships,  the 
scene  is  one  to  satisfy  the  utmost  expectations.  Quite  different  but 
equally  superb  is  the  view  from  the  loftier  hill-top  occupied  by  the 
Tennis  Cc'  irts,  whose  pavilion  roof  affords  a  post  of  vantage.  The 
streets  of  the  town  run  up  and  down  hill  and  in  unexpected  directions, 
and  are  well  adorned  with  shade-trees.  Behind  the  lower  end  of  the 
town  flows  in  the  St.  Croix,  at  this  point  a  great  tidal  stream  navigable 
for  ocean  ships  to  the  wharves  of  Wentworth.  The  Avon  River, 
which  forms  the  harbor  of  Windsor,  is  a  large  tidal  stream  emptying 
into  the  Basin  of  Minas,  12  miles  below  the  town.  At  high  water  it  is 
like  an  inland  sea,  amply  deep  for  any  ship  afloat ;  and  with  the  flood- 
tide  come  ships,  and  yachts,  and  tugs,  and  steamers,  flocking  to  the 
wharves  of  Windsor.  At  low  tide  it  is  but  a  rivulet,  and  fairly  justi- 
fies the  gibes  of  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  who  writes  of  the  Avon  as 
follows  :  "  I  never  knew  before  how  much  water  adds  to  a  river.  Its 
slimy  bottom  was  (piite  a  ghastly  spectacle,  an  ugly  rent  in  the  land 
that  nothing  could  heal  but  the  friendly  returning  tide.  I  should  think 
it  would  be  confusing  to  dwell  by  a  river  that  runs  first  one  way  and 
then  the  other,  and  then  vanishes  altogether." 

The  ancient  name  of  Windsor  was  Piziquid,  meaning  "  The  Junction 
of  the  Waters."  Here  t^tood  a  populous  and  prosperous  Acadian  set- 
tlement, till  the  great  banishment  in  1755.  After  the  lands  of  the 
Acadians  had  lain  for  some  years  vacant,  settlers  from  Massachusetts 
and  Rhode  Island  were  brought  in  to  occupy  the  townships  of  Newport 


250 


FROM    HALIFAX   TO   YAUMOUTII    BY    RAIL. 


and  Falmouth,  while  Windrtoi"  itHclf  was  iiHottcd  to  retiring  Bi-itlsh 
officers,  and  became  one  of  tiic  soi'lal  oenterB  of  the  province.  King's 
(*ollcgc,  tlie  oldest  of  England's  colonial  universities,  was  founded  in 
1790,  on  Oxford  models,  and  was  Riven  a  royal  charter  in  1802.  It  Is 
under  the  patronage  of  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  and  is  a  ('hurch 
of  England  institution,  though  free  to  all  denominations  alike.  It  cele- 
brated its  centenary  last  year ;  and,  after  many  vicissitudes,  entered 
on  an  era  of  renewed  prosperity  under  tlie  management  of  the  present 
president.  Dr.  Willets.  Some  of  the  most  distinguished  sons  of  Canada 
have  been  educated  at  King's,  on  whose  roll  of  graduates  arc  such 
names  as  those  of  Judge  llaliburton  ("Sam  Slick"),  Sir  John  Inglis, 
and  Sir  Fenwick  Williams.  At  one  corner  of  the  college  property  is 
the  Collegiate  /School,  a  prosperous  institution,  and  adjoining  them  on 
the  E.,  on  a  roomy  hillside,  are  the  grounds  and  buildings  of  "  h'dffehill,^'' 
the  newly-established  "  Church  School  for  Girls."  A  favorite  walk  is 
from  town  out  to  the  college  woods,  through  a  willowed  avenue  that 
crosses  the  ravine  of  the  disused  plaster-(piarries,  and  past  the  gate- 
house of  Clifton,  the  old  llaliburton  estate  where  "  Sam  Slick  "  used 
to  live.  This  historic  estate,  with  its  delightful  old  country-house  em- 
bowered in  ancient  trees,  no  longer  belongs  to  the  llaliburton  family, 
but  is  always  known  as  the  "  Sam  Slick  House."  The  chief  hotels  of 
Windsor  are  the  excellently  ecjuipped  Dufferin  Hotel,  whose  roomy 
structure  is  the  most  cons|)icu()us  object  near  the  station ;  and  the 
Victoria  (Doran's),  an  old  and  popular  house,  which  is  quite  up  to 
the  requirements  of  the  day.  Among  the  other  hotels  may  be  men- 
tioned Mounce's  and  the  Somerset  House.  A  cab  or  two  is  usually  in 
attendance  at  the  station,  and  carries  travelers  to  the  hotels  or  points 
in  town  for  25  cents.  The  livery  charges  of  the  establishments  fur- 
nishing these  cabs  (Townshend's,  Jenkins's,  and  Smith's  stables)  are 
very  moderate. 

Windsor  to  Farrsboro  and  St.  John. 

Formerly  it  was  possible  to  sail  from  Windsor  to  Parrsboro  by 
steamers,  but  now  it  is  necessary  to  take  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ily.  to 
Kingsport,  and  thence  by  steamer  Evangeline  to  Parrsboro. 

The  train  passes  along  the  bank  to  the  Avon's  mouth.  The  ample 
river  can  by  no  stretch  of  fancy  be  called  blue ;  but  blueness  is  some- 
thing of  which  we  have  by  this  time  grown  well-nigh  surfeited.  The 
shores  arc  a  succession  of  rich,  rolling  hills,  set  with  prosperous  vil- 


WINDROR   TO    PARRSBORO    AND   ST.    JOHN. 


251 


lagea ;  for  the  soil  of  this  region  Is  of  houndlesH  fertility.     Ah  we  run 
out  of  the  Avon  we  pass  on  our  left  the  little  town  of  Avonport, 
whence  the  train  runs  toward  Kentville  (see  papo  257),  where  a  branch 
turns  north,  passing  Mill  Village,  Centcrville,  Cunard,  Canning,  and 
finally  reaches  Khufsporf.     In  going  by  boat  we  cross  the  swaying  ex- 
panse of  MimtH  Jiashi,  the  jjonderous  front  of  lilomidon  (described  in 
later  pages)  is  the  doininatins  object,  dwarfing  the  dark  brows  of  rival 
promontories,  and  roeulllng  many  a  romantic  tradition.     Running  past 
its  foot,  we  find  that  this  giant  loses  none  of  his  impressiveness  on 
close  inspection.     Even  while  we  are  in  broad  sunshine,  the  dark  sum- 
mit towering  above  may  be  witlidrawn  from  view,  wrapped  in  the  fogs 
that  roll  over  it  from  Fundy.     At  this  point  wc  command  a  magnifi- 
cent view  up  the  Basin,  past  the  quaint  masses  of  Five  Mandn^  up 
Cohequid  Baif,  to  the  very  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie  River,  while  far 
behind  lies  the  meadow  of  Grand  Pre.    From  Kingsport  we  run  across 
the  mouth  of  the  Basin  to  the  village  of  Parr»iboro,  on  a  small  river 
at  whose  mouth  the  steamer  stops.     As  we  make  fast  to  the  mossy 
timbers  of  the  pier,  our  view  out  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy  is  cut  off 
by  the  near  heights  of  Partridyc  Inland,  an  abrupt  and  somber-wooded 
hill  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  gravel  beach.     This  island  is 
the  center  of  many  (JIuskAp  legends,  and  here  took  place  Glusk&p's 
famous  carousal  with  the  divine  Kit-poose-ee-a-goo-no,  at  which  a  whole 
whale  was  eaten.     At  Parrsboro  Pier,  as  the  landing  is  called,  there 
are  admirable  beaches,  and  there  stands  a  pleasant  lodging-house  close 
to  the  head  of  the  wharf,  with  a  home-like  air  very  attractive  to  the 
summer  idler.    Parrsboro  itself  is  reached  by  a  drive  of  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  pier.     There  are  several  small  hotels,  of  which 
the  most  comfortable  is  the  Grand  Central.     The  chief  business  of 
Parrsboro,  supporting  a  population  of  something  over  1,000,  is  the 
shipping  of  lumber.     It  is  the  best  center  from  which  to  reach  the 
wild  back  country  of  Cumberland  County,  famous  for  its  moose  and 
bears,  and  its  comparatively  virgin  fishing-waters.      Guides  may  be 
hired  in  the  town.     A  run  of  32  miles  by  rail  will  enable  one  to  visit 
the  prosperous  coal-mining  town  of  Springhill,  a  thoroughly  typical 
coal  town.     Parrsboro  lies,  by  water,  just  30  miles  from  Windsor. 
Delightful  drives  may  be  taken  in  the  neighborhood,  to  Apple  River, 
Five  Inlands,  and  the  sublime   sea-scapes  of  Advocate  Harbor  and 
Cape  rf'  Or. 


252 


WINDSOR   TO   PARR8BORO   AND   ST.    JOHN. 


From  Parrsboro  pier  the  boat  runs  out  into  the  Bay  of  Fandy 

on  the  bosom  of  a  tremendous  tide,  that  races  between  Cape  Sharp 
and  Blomidon  at  the  rate  of  8  or  9  miles  an  hour.  Soon  we  pass, 
on  our  left,  the  strange  and  impressive  promontory  of  Cape  Split, 
whose  terminal  cliff,  about  400  ft.  high,  appears  to  have  been  liter- 
ally split  away  from  the  main  mass,  and  now  rises  out  of  the  seeth- 
ing tides  in  lonely  grandeur.  Spencer^s  Island  is  passed  about  a 
dozen  miles  from  Cape  Split,  and  then  in  the  distance  loom  the 
giant  outlines  of  Cape  iV  Or,  with  Cape  Chignecto  far  to  the  N.  Per- 
haps the  most  interesting  point  we  pass  is  the  lofty  cliff-girt  island 
called  Isle  Haute,  in  the  middle  of  the  bay.  The  island  is  less 
than  two  miles  in  length,  and  its  apparently  inaccessible  walls  are 
350  feet  in  height.  On  its  top  is  a  farm,  inhabited  and  cultivated 
by  a  family  for  whom  isolation  seems  to  have  no  terrors.  From 
Isle  Haute  to  St.  John  is  a  run  of  from  60  to  75  miles,  according 
to  weather  and  tide.  The  course  is  down  the  open  bay,  and  the 
shores  are  too  far  off  to  be  of  interest. 


^  Windsor  to  Grand  Pr6. 

The  train  runs  slowly  through  the  back  yards  of  Windsor  to  the 
Avon,  and  crosses  the  river  on  a  fine  iron  bridge,  parallel  to  which  runs 
the  light  and  graceful  structure  of  the  new  passenger  bridge.  Then 
comes  the  pretty  settlement  of  Falmouth,  \^  miles  from  Windsor  sta- 
tion. The  next  stop  is  at  Hantsport,  T  miles  from  Windsor.  This 
is  a  neat  and  thriving  town,  and  does  an  immense  amount  of  ship-build- 
ing. It  is  beginning  to  develop  manufacturing  interests,  and  has  good 
freestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity.  The  houses  are  small,  but  wear  an 
air  of  comfort.  From  this  point  onward  to  Avonport  the  railroad  fol- 
lows the  banks  of  the  iVvon,  and  one  gets  noble  views  from  the  car 
windows,  across  the  wide  Avon,  and  Minas  Basin,  toward  the  blue  line 
of  the  Parrsboro  shore,  with  fine  glimpses  of  the  mighty  shoulder  of 
Blomidon.  Presently  this  great  promontory  comes  into  full  view, 
and  thenceforth  remains  the  commanding  feature  of  the  landscape  for 
many  miles,  until  Port  Williams  is  left  behind. 

"  This  is  that  black  rock  bastion,  based  in  surge, 
Pregnant  with  agate  and  with  amethyst, 
Whose  foot  the  tides  of  storied  Minas  scourge, 
Whose  top  austere  withdraws  into  its  mist. 


'   \ 


WmDSOE  TO  GRAND  PRE.  253 

"  This  is  that  ancient  cape  of  tears  and  etorm, 

Whose  towering  front  inviolable  frowns  ,   ./- 

O'er  vales  Evangeline  and  love  keep  warm— 
Whose  fame  thy  song,  O  tender  singer,  crowns. 

"Yonder,  across  these  reeling  fields  of  foam. 
Came  the  sad  threat  of  the  avenging  ships. 
What  profit  now  to  know  if  just  the  doom, 

"  Though  harsh  I    The  streaming  eyes,  the  praying  lips, 
The  shadow  of  inextinguishable  pain, 
The  poet's  deathless  music— these  remain  I  " 

Avonport  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Avon,  5  miles  from  Hantsport,  B8 
miles  from  Halifax.  Two  miles  beyond  we  cross  the  storied  Gaspe- 
reaux  at  its  mouth,  and  reach  the  village  of  Horton  Landing.  From 
this  point,  on  to  beyond  Wolfvillc,  we  are  in  the  actual  "  Land  of 
Evangeline."  The  great  body  of  the  Acadian  settlement  was  nearer 
Horton  Landing  than  to  the  station  of  Grand  Pr^,  1  mile  farther 
on.  ''■)o^  to  Horton  Landing  is  the  little  creek  at  whose  mouth  the 
unhappy  '  ians  were  embarked  for  exile.  At  Horton  Landing  is  a 
pleasan-  '  :  L'  half  hotel,  half  country-house,  by  name  Dunedin  Cottage  ; 
and  visitors  may  spend  some  summer  weeks  here  very  pleasantly, 
roaming  the  breezy  ''  dikes,"  bathing  on  the  beaches  of  Long  Island, 
or  exploring  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Gaspereaux.  Close  to  Dunedin 
Cottage  is  Patterson's  Agricultural  and  Business  School,  where  boys 
are  taught  farming,  with  other  useful  knowledge.  Grand  Pre  itself, 
from  whose  station  we  see  close  at  hand  a  row  of  old  Acadian  willows, 
and  on  the  hill-side  a  few  gaunt  Acadian  poplars  and  gnarled  Acadian 
apple-trees,  can  hardly  be  called  a  village.  It  is  merely  a  thicker 
clustering  of  the  fruitful  farms  and  orchards,  and  ample  farm-houses, 
that  make  so  cheerful  the  face  of  all  this  landscape.  Near  the  station 
is  a  great  tree  by  whose  foot  may  be  traced  the  foundations  of  the 
Acadian  Parish  Church.  The  neighborhood  is  a  delightful  one  to  visit, 
for  many  gentlemen  from  Halifax  and  other  centers  have  farms  here, 
where  they  make  their  summer  residence.  The  visitor  who  wishes  to 
spend  some  time  in  this  neighborhood  and  do  thoroughly  the  whole 
district  over  which  Longfellow  has  cast  the  colored  light  of  romance, 
will  find  it  most  convenient  to  make  his  headquarters  at  Wolfrille, 
8  miles  beyond  Grand  Pr6,  whence  the  whole  region  is  accessible  by 
pleasant  carriage-drives. 


r,..^ 


u 


254 


WINDSOR   TO   GRAND   PRE. 


THE  EXPULSION  OF  THE  ACADIANS. 


It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  tourist  will  go  through  this  region 
with  an  open  volume  of  "  Evangeline  "  in  his  hand,  or  at  least  with  a 
copy  of  Longfellow  in  his  pocket.  Iloncc,  extended  quotations  from 
the  noble  and  touehing  poem,  which  has  immortalized  this  region  and 
crystallized  in  men's  minds  a  somewhat  mistaken  view  of  the  tragedy 
here  enacted,  might  be  considered  sui)orfluous.  Nevertheless  we  ap- 
pend one  extract,  in  which  the  Acadian  village  is  inimitably  described: 

"  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  the  chores  t)f  the  linsin  of  Minas, 
iJistAnt,  Hcchided,  still,  the  little  villa<;c  of  (Jrand  Pre 
Lay  in  the  fruitful  valley.    Vast  mciidows  stretched  to  the  eastward, 
Giving  the  village  its  name,  and  pastuic  to  flocks  without  number. 
Dikes,  that  the  hands  of  the  farmers  had  raised  with  labor  incessant, 
Shnt  out  the  tin-bnlent  tides;  but  at  certain  seasons  the  flood-gates 
Opened,  and  welcomed  the  sea  to  wander  at  will  o'er  the  meadows. 
West  and  south  there  were  tields  of  flax,  and  orchards  and  corn-flelds 
Spreading  afar  and  unfenccd  o'er  the  plain;  and  away  to  the  northward 
Bloniidon  rose,  and  the  forests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountains 
Sea-fogs  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic 
Looked  on  the  happy  valley!,  but  ne'er  from  their  station  descended. 
There,  in  the  midst  of  its  farms,  reposed  the  Acadian  village. 
Strongly  built  were  the  houses,  with  frames  of  oak  and  of  chestnut. 
Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign  of  the  Henries. 
Thatched  were  the  roofs,with  dormer-windows;  and  gables  projecting 
Over  the  basement  below  protected  and  shaded  the  doorway. 
There  in  the  tranquil  evenings  of  summer,  when  brightly  the  sunset 
Lighted  the  village  street,  and  gilded  the  vanes  on  the  chimneys. 
Matrons  and  maidens  sat  in  snow-white  caps  and  in  kirtles 
Scarlet  and  blue  and  green,  with  distaffs  spinning  the  golden 
Flax  for  the  gossiping  looms,  whose  noisy  shuttles  within  doors 
Mingled  their  sound  with  the  whir  of  the  wheels  and  the  songs  of  the  maidens. 
Solemnly  down  the  street  came  the  parish  priest,  and  the  children 
Paused  in  their  play  to  kiss  the  hand  he  extended  to  bless  them. 
Reverend  walked  he  among  them;  and  up  rose  matrons  and  maidens, 
Hailing  his  slow  approach  with  words  of  attectionate  welconic. 
Then  came  the  laborers  home  from  the  field,  and  serenely  the  sun  sank 
Down  to  his  rest,  and  twilight  prevailed.    Anon  from  the  belfry 
Softly  the  Angelus  sounded,  and  over  the  roofs  of  the  village 
Columns  of  pale  blue  smoke,  like  clouds  of  incense  ascending. 
Rose  from  a  hundred  hearths,  the  homes  of  peace  and  contentment. 
Thus  dwelt  together  in  love  these  simple  Acadian  farmers- 
Dwelt  in  the  love  of  God  and  of  man.    Alike  were  they  free  from 
Fear,  that  reigns  with  the  tyrant,  and  envy,  the  vice  of  republics. 
Neither  locks  had  they  to  their  doors,  nor  bars  to  their  windows; 
But  their  dwellings  were  open  as  day  and  the  hearts  of  the  owners; 
There  the  richest  was  poor,  and  the  poorest  lived  in  abundance." 


Cape  Split. 


t  / 


WINDSOR  TO   GRAND   PR^. 


255 


.  -•..  <■■ 


The  pathos  and  appeal  of  the  Acadian  story,  as  told  by  Longfellow, 
should  not  be  allowed  to  blind  us  to  the  fact  that  the  pitiful  fate  of  the 
Acadians  was  a  measure  of  absolutely  necessary  justice.  In  spite  of 
the  most  earnest  pleadings,  the  frankest  threatenings,  and  forty  years 
of  unparalleled  forbearance,  exercised  long  after  forbearance  had 
ceased  to  be  a  virtue,  the  Acadians  persisted  in  a  deadly  enmity  to  a 
government  whose  subjects  they  unquestionably  were.  They  refused 
to  allow  themselves  to  be  considered  as  other  than  enemies,  and  not 
only  did  they  engage,  "lor-  Uh  the  savages,  in  rf^Rm'oral  bloody 
raids  upon  the  Engli  ^ettu  its,  but  their  prtise».  lU  the  colony 
made  a  point  of  almost  fatal  weakness  in  its  defenses,  at  a  time  when 
England  was  engaged  in  what  was  practically  a  life-and-dcath  struggle 
with  her  great  antagonist.  The  indulgence  of  the  English  Government 
was  repaid  by  the  Acadians  with  hatred,  and  sometimes  with  the 
scalping-knife.  Undoubtedly  these  people  believed  they  were  acting 
aright.  Had  they  been  left  to  themselves,  they  would  have  become,  in 
the  course  of  a  generation,  loyal  and  contented  subjects.  But  they 
were  made  the  tools  of  French  intrigue.  From  Quebec  every  effort  was 
continually  put  forth  to  keep  alive  their  bitterness  against  their  con- 
querors, and  their  belief  that  Acadia  would  once  more  be  brought  be- 
neath the  sway  of  France.  When  they  began  to  show  signs  of  a  desire 
to  accept  the  situation,  and  when  persuasion  on  the  part  of  Quebec 
became  ineffectual,  then  threats  were  employed,  and  they  were  menaced 
with  the  tomahawks  of  the  savages.  The  authorities  at  Quebec  had  no 
scruples.  Sometimes  violence  was  resorted  to,  and  the  exile  of  the 
Acadians  was  begun  by  Le  Loutre  before  the  English  had  thought  of 
it.  Hundreds  of  Acadians,  who  were  becoming  reconciled  to  English 
rule,  were  forced  by  Le  Loutre  to  move  into  French  territory,  where 
they  suffered  unbounded  hardships.  Their  homes  were  burned  behind 
them,  and  whole  villages  were  thus  depopulated,  in  obedience  to  a 
heartless  policy.  The  Acadians  were  a  simple  and  ignorant  people, 
easily  led  by  their  superiors,  and  hence  on  a  final  estimate  they  must 
be  regarded  as  more  sinned  against  than  sinning.  But  those  who 
wrought  their  ruin  and  deserved  their  curse  were  not  the  English,  but 
their  own  countrymen.  The  removal  of  the  Grand  Pr6  Acadians  was 
accomplished  with  combined  firmness  and  gentleness  by  Colonel  Win- 
slow,  of  Boston,  with  his  New  England  troops ;  and  his  journal,  though 
full  of  commiseration  for  this  unhappy  people,  shows  that  he  did  not 
consider  the  justice  of  their  sentence  in  the  least  degree  open  to  ques- 


h 


256 


WINDSOR  TO   GRAND   PRE. 


tion.  After  the  exile  was  accomplished  many  of  the  Acadians  escaped 
to  Quebec,  where  their  lot  was  pitiful  indeed  compared  with  that  of 
those  who  remained  in  the  American  colonies.  Among  men  of  alien 
speech  and  faith  they  were  at  least  humanely  treated ;  but  at  Quebec 
they  were  cheated  and  starved,  and  died  like  sheep,  having  fallen  to 
the  tendci  mercies  of  Bigot  and  his  creatures.  The  period  at  which 
these  exiles  fled  to  Quebec  is  not  a  bright  one  in  French-Canadian 
annals.  After  the  removal  of  the  Acadians  their  fair  inheritance  lay 
vacant  for  years  ere  men  of  English  speech  entered  upon  it. 


I 


i- 


Wolfville  to  Annapolis. 

Wolfville  is  a  remarkably  pretty  little  university  town,  embow- 
ered in  apple-orchards,  and  ranged  on  a  sunny  slope  facing  the  marshes, 
the  blue  Basin,  and  Blomidon.  Its  population,  according  to  the  census 
of  1891,  was  1,500;  but  in  the  census  now  being  taken  it  will  give  a 
better  account  of  itself.  On  the  other  side  of  the  great  ridge  behind 
the  town  lies  the  deep  tomantic  Valley  of  the  Gaspereaux,  which  is  said 
by  some  travelers  to  resemble  the  valley  of  the  Dee.  A  short  walk 
from  Wolfville  over  the  hill  will  take  one  into  scenes  that  have  never 
been  done  justice  to  by  the  artist's  brush.  The  upper  waters  of  the 
Gaspereaux  afford  some  good  salmon-fishing,  and  the  chain  of  lakes 
from  which  it  flows  is  well  stocked  with  trout.  The  town  of  Wolfville 
is  dominated  by  the  Baptist  university  of  Acadia  College,  with  its  asso- 
ciated institutions  for  the  education  of  boys  and  girls.  All  these 
institutions  are  flourishing  and  largely  attended.  The  president  of  the 
college  is  Dr.  Sawyer,  who  secures  a  very  loyal  and  vigorous  support 
for  the  institution  from  the  denomination  under  whose  auspices  it  is  con- 
ducted. The  university  building  occupies  a  fine  site  on  the  hill  side,  and 
shows  up  very  effectively  as  seen  from  the  passing  train.  Wolfville 
has  several  hotels,  the  best  of  which  is  perhaps  the  American  House. 

The  great  cape  of  Blomidon,  the  sentinel  of  the  Evangeline  land, 
may  be  reached  by  driving  from  Wolfville,  or  from  Kentville  by  taking 
the  new  Cornwallis  Valley  Branch,  of  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway, 
to  Kingsport  and  driving  thence.  It  is  about  18  miles  from  Wolfville 
to  Blomidon,  a  lovely  drive  all  the  way.  The  first  9  miles  is  across  the 
famed  Cornwallis  Valley  to  the  little  town  of  Canning.  This  valley 
is  indeed  the  garden  of  the  province.  It  is  traversed  by  four  rivers — 
the  Cornwallis,  Canard,  Canning,  and  Pereau.    Its  deep  alluvial  soil  is 


WOLFVILLE  TO   ANNAPOLIS. 


257 


ns  escaped 
ith  that  of 
en  of  alien 
at  Quebec 
ig  fallen  to 
)d  at  which 
h-Canadian 
iiitance  lay 


vn,  embow- 
lie  marshes, 
•  the  census 
will  give  a 
dge  behind 
hich  is  said 
short  walk 
have  never 
ters  of  the 
in  of  lakes 
Wolfville 
I  its  asso* 
All  these 
ent  of  the 
us  support 
es  it  is  con- 
1  side,  and 
Wolfville 
House. 
eline  land, 
by  taking 
c  Railway, 
Wolfville 
across  the 
This  valley 
ir  rivers — 
vial  soil  is 


of  quenchless  fertility.  Its  climate,  protected  by  the  lofty  range  of 
North  Mountain  from  the  fogs  and  storms  of  Fundy,  has  the  sparkle  of 
sea  air  with  the  softness  of  the  most  favored  inland  regions.  In  many 
of  its  charming  characteristics,  and  particularly  by  reason  of  its  abound- 
ing orchards,  it  recalls  the  Niagara  Peninsula.  Some  distance  beyond 
Canning  the  road  begins  to  wind  up  the  side  of  North  Monntain, 
and  then  runs  along  the  crest  to  the  lofty  point  of  vantage  called  the 
Look-off,  whence  one  gazes  into  five  counties.  The  glorious  panorama 
seen  from  this  point  is  something  one  must  go  far  to  equal.  Four  miles 
farther  on  the  range  of  North  Mountain  breaks  down  in  magnificent 
abruptness  of  cliff,  nearly  600  ft.,  to  the  tide-swept  Basin  of  Minas. 
This  cliff-front  is  Blomidon,  and  the  expert  climber  may  explore  its 
somber  ramparts  for  amethysts  and  garnets,  opal  and  agate,  chalcedony 
and  copper,  malachite  and  psilomelane,  or  for  that  fabled  crystal,  the 
Diamond  of  Blomidon,  whose  radiance  reveals  itself  only  to  the  distant 
watcher,  and  evades  anything  like  a  close  scrutiny. 

Two  miles  beyond  Wolfville  is  the  station  of  Port  Williams,  whence 
quantities  of  apples,  potatoes,  and  cattle  are  shipped.  Then  we  for- 
sake the  marshes  for  a  time,  and  find  them  very  straitened  when  we 
meet  them  again  as  we  draw  near  Kentville.  Kentville  is  a  busy 
town  packed  into  a  remarkably  lovely  little  valley,  along  with  a  bit  of 
tidal  river,  a  brawling  amber  brook  overhung  with  willows,  splendid 
trees,  and  great  variety  in  very  scanty  room.  Everything  appears  on 
a  diminutive  scale.  Everywhere  is  close  to  everywhere  else  in  Kent- 
ville, and  the  place  has  a  peculiar  and  distinctive  charm  in  spite  of  its 
summer  heat.  That  is  a  small  drawback,  however,  for  when  quite 
roasted  out  one  need  turn  aside  but  a  dozen  paces,  climb  a  hill-top,  and 
cool  himself  comfortably.  Kentville  is  also  dusty;  but  this  matters 
little,  for  no  wind  can  get  at  the  dust  to  make  it  troublesome.  The 
population  of  Kentville  is  something  over  2,000.  It  has  several  ho- 
tels, the  most  popular  of  which  is  the  excellent  house  Aberdeen.  At 
Kentville  we  are  71  miles  from  Halifax,  and  here  the  train  stops 
fifteen  minutes  for  refreshments.  From  the  station  we  may  take  the 
Comwallis  Valley  Branch,  of  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway,  for 
Canning  and  the  apple-shipping  village  of  Kingsport,  on  Minas  Basin. 
The  fare  for  this  trip  is  50  cents ;  return,  75  cents.  At  Kingsport 
will  be  found  a  seaside  resort  which  has  ap.ybeen  named  the  New- 
port of  Nova  Scotia.  Between  Kingsport  and  Parrsboro,  on  the  Cum- 
berland shore,  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Ry's  steamer  Evangeline  makes 
17 


f  I 


258 


WOLFVILLE   TO   ANNAPOLIS. 


daily  trips  across  tlie  Basin  of  Minas  (single  faro,  $1 ;  return,  $1.60). 
Charming  drives  also  may  be  taken  from  Kentville  to  IlalPs  Harbor  and 
Baxter's  Harbor,  over  North  Mountain,  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  shore. 

Leaving  Kentville  we  pass  the  stations  of  Coldbrook  (76  miles  from 
Halifax),  Cambridge  (78  miles),  Watervillc  (80  miles),  the  thriving 
manufacturing  town  of  Berwick  (88  miles),  famous  for  its  Methodist 
Camp-meeting  Grounds,  and  Aylesford  (88  miles).  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Aylesford  is  the  great  chain  of  wilderness  waters,  called  the 
Aylesford  Lakes.  Here,  too,  is  a  sand  plain,  18  miles  long  by  half  as 
much  in  width,  sprinkled  in  a  niggardly  fashion  with  course,  thin 
grasses,  and  rejoicing  in  the  title  of  the  ^^DevWs  Goose  Pastured  Near 
Aylesford  is  the  rifle  range  and  eiiiiip  ground  of  Aldershott.  Next 
comes  Auburn  (90  miles),  and  then  Kingston  (95  miles).  A  short  drive 
from  Kingston  is  the  pretty  village  of  Melvern  Square.  Three  miles 
beyond  Kingston  is  the  station  of  Wilmot,  whence  one  may  drive  to 
the  Wilmot  JSpa  Springs.  There  is  a  summer  hotel  at  the  springs; 
and  good  lodgings  may  be  obtained  at  private  houses  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. The  waters  of  the  springs  are  growing  rapidly  in  repute,  and 
a  delicious,  sparkling  ginger  ale  is  manufactured  from  them.  They 
have  a  great  medicinal  value,  and  taste  nmeh  less  like  a  combination 
of  old  shoes  and  burnt  gunpowder  than  such  waters  usually  do. 

The  next  stopping-place  is  Middleton,  102  miles  from  Halifax. 
This  is  a  town  growing  rapidly  in  importance  and  population.  It  has 
rich  copper  and  iron  mines  in  its  vicinity,  and  is  the  northwestern  ter- 
minus of  the  Central  of  Nova  Scotia  Railway.  Its  chief  hotels  are  the 
American  ffome  and  Middleton  Hotel.  Near  Middleton  are  the  lovely 
Nictaux  Falls.  The  trains  of  the  Central  of  Nova  Scotia  run  through 
fine  and  varied  scenery.  They  leave  Middleton  at  1.40  p.  m.,  and  reach 
Springfield  at  S.OY,  New  Germany  at  3.44,  Bridgewater  at  4.87,  and 
Lunenburg  at  5.35.  Six  miles  beyond  Middleton  is  the  pretty  pastoral 
village  of  Lawreticetown,  on  the  winding,  upper  waters  of  the  historic 
Annapolis  River.  There  is  a  hotel  here  called  the  Elm  House. 
Three  miles  farther  is  the  farming  and  lumbering  settlement  of  Para- 
dise, with  fine  granite  in  the  neighborhood.  Within  easy  reach  are 
capital  trout-waters.  Next  we  come  to  Brildgetown,  116  miles  from 
Halifax  and  14  from  Annapolis.  This  is  p.  stirring  little  town  of  some- 
thing over  1,000  inhabitants,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Annapo- 
lis River.  It  has  good  water-power,  which  it  utilizes  in  furniture  and 
organ  factories.    The  surrounding  country  is  prosperous  and  thickly 


ANNAl'OLIH   TO    YAUMOIITII. 


259 


n,  $1.60). 
harbor  and 
shore, 
niles  from 
i  thriving 
Mctliodist 
neighbor- 
called  the 
by  half  as 
)tirse,  thin 
re."    Near 
ott.    Next 
short  drive 
hrce  miles 
y  drive  to 
e  springs; 
the  neigh- 
repiite,  and 
em.    They 
pmbiiiation 
io. 
Halifax. 
It  has 
cstern  ter- 
Is  are  the 
the  lovely 
in  through 
and  reach 
4.37,  and 
y  pastoral 
e  historic 
f.m  House. 
of  Para- 
reach  are 
liles  from 
of  sorae- 
Annapo- 
iture  and 
d  thickly 


n 


Hcttled,  which  gives  Bridgetown  a  hirgo  local  trade.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood is  liloodji  JirooA;  m  called  from  a  massacre  of  New  England 
troops  by  the  French  nnd  their  Indian  allies.  The  chief  hotels  of 
Bridgetown  are  Chutc'H  and  the  (Jrnnd  Central, 

From  Bridgetown  to  Annii polls  is  the  prettiest  part  of  the  journey 
after  leaving  Kentville.  The  views  from  the  car-windows  are  full  of 
quiet  and  varied  charm — richly  wooded  slopes,  sunny  hits  of  meadow 
and  winding  river,  and  In  the  distance  the  blue  hilln.  Midway  between 
Bridgetown  and  Annapolis  is  the  station  of  Roundhlll. 

Annapolis  to  Yarmouth. 

At  Annapolis  we  arrive  at  noon.  The  old  historic  town  of 
Annapolis,  or  Amiapolifi  lioifaf,  has  •..  fair  and  sheltered  site,  and  we 
fail  to  wonder  that  it  attracted  the  regard  of  French  navigators  fresh 
from  the  rough  breast  of  Fundy.  The  Basin  was  discovered  by  that  ex- 
pedition of  De  Monts  and  ('ham|)lain.  In  1604,  that  went  on  to  found  the 
ill-fated  settlement  on  St.  Oi-oix  Island.  The  survivors  remembered 
affectionately  the  lovely  shores  of  the  Basin,  and  fled  back  thither  from 
St.  Croix.  The  region  was  granted  to  Baron  Poutrincourt,  who  named  it 
Port  Royal;  and  In  1606  came  a  little  colony,  of  whom  the  leading 
spirit  was  one  Mark  Lcscarhot,  who  became  the  chronicler  of  the  set- 
tlement. He  Inaugurated  that  "  Order  of  a  Good  Time^''  whose  high- 
hearted mirth  makes  so  bright  a  spot  in  those  annals  of  strife  and 
privation.  The  members  of  the  order  were  fifteen,  and  their  head 
was  the  "  steward,"  whose  office  was  held  for  a  day  at  a  time  by  each 
member  in  turn.  The  steward's  responsibility  was  heavy.  lie  had  to 
provide  an  attractive  bill  of  fare  for  the  day's  dinner — and  material 
for  such  a  task  was  not  always  abundant  at  Port  Royal.  At  each  feast 
it  was  requisite  that  there  should  be  one  entirely  new  delicacy.  To- 
ward spring  the  wine  ran  low,  and  instead  of  throe  quarts  to  each  mem- 
ber the  daily  allowance  was  reduced  to  one  poor  pint.  This  merry 
order  doubtless  did  much  to  keep  up  the  heart  of  the  lonely  little  colony 
during  the  long  and  trying  winter ;  and  only  three  deaths  occurred.  In 
the  month  of  January  the  order  wont  (m  a  six-mile  picnic,  to  see 
if  the  corn  they  had  sown  in  November  had  begun  to  sprout  beneath 
the  snow ! 

Trouble  began  at  Port  Royal  through  the  interference  of  the  Jesuits, 
to  whom  Poutrincourt  was  unfriendly.    The  Jesuits  in  a  short  time 


260 


ANNAPOLIS   TO   YARMOUTH. 


left  thu  colony  and  ostnhliHhcd  a  new  settlement  called  St.  Sauveur,  at 
Mount  Desert.  When  this  was  destroyed  by  a  Vhginian  expedition 
under  Argall,  the  JesuitH  led  the  enemy  on  to  Port  Royul,  which  was 
speedily  laid  waste.  Thus  be},'an,  in  1613,  the  struggle  between  France 
and  EuglanJ  for  the  New  Worhl,  which  ended  not  till  I7rt3.  From  its 
founding  till  its  capture  by  New-Englanders  in  1710,  the  story  of  Port 
Royal  is  an  endless  succession  of  captures  and  recaptures,  and  chang- 
ing masters.  In  1710  its  name  was  altered  to  Annapolis  Royal.  In 
the  next  year  occurred  the  massacre  of  Bloody  Brook,  already  referred 
to ;  and  though  from  this  date  Annapolis  remained  in  the  hands  of  the 
English,  the  following  forty  years  saw  it  kept  in  an  almost  perpetual 
state  of  siege  by  the  hostile  Indians  and  Acadians,  After  the  exile 
of  the  Acadians  the  settlement  tasted  the  unwonted  delights  of  peace 
till  17H1,  when  it  was  attacked  in  the  night  by  two  American  war- 
ships. The  fort  was  captured  and  its  guns  spiked ;  and  the  towns-folk 
were  locked  up  in  the  block-house  while  the  unwelcome  visitors  looted 
the  town.  The  fort  is  still  in  good  repair.  The  view  from  its  ram- 
parts of  sod  is  very  lovely  and  altogether  un warlike.  The  fort  is  im- 
perial property,  as  is  also  Fort  Edward  at  Windsor.  Most  of  the  other 
strongholds  in  Canada,  outside  of  Halifax,  were  surrendered  by  England 
to  the  Canadian  Government  at  the  time  of  confederation,  in  1867. 

Annapolis  has  a  population  of  over  3,000.  Its  chief  hotels  are 
the  Hillsdale,  American,  and  Clifton.  There  is  a  good  restaurant  in 
the  station.  The  town  is  almost  surrounded  by  water,  an  extension 
of  the  Basin  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  the  Annapolis  River, 
crossed  here  by  a  ferry  to  the  pretty  village  of  Granville.  To  north 
and  south  stretch  the  sheltering,  high  green  walls  of  North  and 
South  Mountains,  and  to  eastward  opens  the  magnificent  expanse  of 
the  great  landlocked  haven,  18  miles  long  by  1  to  5  in  width,  called 
Annapolis  Bami.  The  view  down  the  Basin  from  Annapolis  is 
partly  obstructed  by  Goat  Island.  From  Annapolis  to  Yarmouth  is  87 
miles  ;  fare,  $2.60.  The  first  station  out  of  Annapolis  is  Clemenisport, 
a  shipping  village  in  the  neighborhood  of  rich  deposits  of  iron-ore. 
These  mines  were  worked  for  a  time  and  abandoned,  but  will  probably 
be  reopened  ere  long.  From  the  village  roads  run  inland  to  the  pictur- 
esque Blue  Mountain  (held  sacred  by  the  Indians),  and  to  the  wonder- 
ful trout-waters  of  the  Liverpool  Lakes.  Bear  River,  9  miles  from 
Digby,  is  a  busy  little  shipping  port,  with  saw-mills  and  a  tannery.  It 
is  most  romantically  situated  in  a  deep  valley,  so  sheltered  that  Spring 


ANNAPOLIS  TO  YARMOUTH. 


261 


at 


north 

rth  and 

)anse  of 

called 

)olis   is 

ith  is  87 

entsport, 

ron-ore. 

jrobably 

pictur- 

wonder- 

es  from 

ery.    It 

Spring 


finds  her  vray  thither  nome  weeks  before  she  can  be  persuaded  to  smile 
on  the  rest  of  the  province.  The  time  to  visit  Bear  Iliver  is  emphati- 
cally in  the  cherry-season — for  her  cherries  are  nowhere  to  bo  sur- 
passed. ^ 

Digby,  which  lies  on  a  curve  of  shore  just  beyond  the  openin;;  called 
Dighy  Out,  is  a  favorite  summer  resort,  and  well  supplied  with  small 
hotels.  The  chief  of  these  is  the  Myrtle  Homfi,  followed  by  the  Royal, 
ShorfSy  Digby  Ifowte,  the  Evangeline,  Bitrnhatn^s,  Wavei'ly,  Cherry 
Tree,  and  De  Balinhard's.  Digby  has  the  invigorating  sea  air  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  which  is  only  3  miles  distant,  behind  the  mountain,  and 
is  free  from  the  fog  and  the  chill.  The  sca-bathinp  is  good,  though 
colder  than  at  Annapolis,  and  there  is  good  sport  to  be  had  in  the  way 
of  salt-water  fishing ;  while  the  boating,  of  course,  is  all  that  oould  be 
wished.  Digby  has  a  population  of  about  1,200,  and  is  exten  •  /ely 
engaged  in  fisheries.  The  herring  known  as  "  Digby  chickens "  are 
famous  throughout  the  Maritime  Provinces  for  their  delicacy.  A  prom- 
inent object  near  the  station  is  a  field  full  of  little  wooden  platfoi  >  "'on 
which  the  split  cod  are  dried  for  export.  The  pkr  of  Digby  is  a  lo  'g 
and  lofty  structure,  at  different  portions  of  which  a  landing  is  effected, 
according  to  the  state  of  the  tide.  The  fluctuation  of  tide  here  is 
somewhere  about  40  ft.,  and  the  tremendous  currents  every  now  and 
then  work  disaster  for  the  pier,  which  seems  forever  being  rebuilt. 

The  traveler  who  is  bound  for  St.  John  takes  the  superb  steamer 
"  Prince  Rupert,"  of  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway  Company,  the 
fastest  and  most  perfect  passenger  steamship  on  Canada's  eastern  sea- 
board, and  a  marvel  of  steadiness  in  rough  weather.  After  steaming 
a  couple  of  miles  along  a  fair  and  lofty  sloping  shore,  the  Prince 
Rupert  enters  the  fine  scenery  of  Digby  Gut,  or,  "?«  it  was  called  of 
old,  St.  George's  Channel.  This  passage  is  a  gt-  nvic  cleft  in  the 
Xorth  Mountain,  nearly  2  miles  through,  and  about  half  a  mile  in 
width,  with  bold,  darkly-wooded  shores  from  500  to  600  ft.  in  height. 
On  the  eastern  slope  perch  a  few  airy  cottage^',  making  up  an  ideal 
fishing  village ;  and  the  reddish-gray  linef  oi  a  winding  road  seem  as  if 
they  were  painted  on  the  steep  incline.  Through  the  "Gut"  sweep 
terrific  tides,  boiling  and  eddying,  and  tossing  violently  the  fishermen's 
boats  which  dot  its  surface.  The  Fundy  gate  of  the  passage  is  usually 
white  with  surf.  Digby  Gut  is  satisfying,  always,  to  the  lover  of  the 
picturesque ;  but  it  is  never  more  so  than  when  one  enters  it  from  the 
bay,  and  looks  through  its  grand  portals  into  the  favored  haven  beyond. 


262 


ANNAPOLIS   TO   YARMOUTH. 


I 

I 


The  fare  from  Digby  to  Yarmouth  is  $2,  and  the  distance  67 
miles.  The  railway  lies  some  distance  back  from  the  coast,  along 
which  are  most  of  the  settlements ;  and  travelers  who  wish  to  visit 
the  picturesque  Acadian  district  of  Clare  may  do  so  very  conven- 
iently from  Weymouth  by  driving.  Clare  is  settled  by  returned 
Acadian  exiles,  and  maintains  its  peculiar  individuality  with  great  per- 
sistence. It  is  almost  as  quaint  as  Chezzetcook.  The  settlements  are 
like  one  long  village  street,  for  miles ;  and  back  of  the  cottages  run  the 
narrow  strips  of  the  oft-subdivided  farms.  The  district  lies  along  the 
shores  of  the  deep  bay  of  St.  Mary's,  whose  waters  are  separated  only 
by  a  narrow  isthmus  from  those  of  the  Annapolis  Basin.  The  bay  is 
divided  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  by  the  hmg  line  of  mountains,  a  con- 
tinuation of  North  Mountain,  known  as  Digby  Neck.  This  curious 
peninsula,  which  is  only  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width, 
runs  20  miles  seaward,  and  is  continued  for  another  20  miles  by  Long 
Island  and  Brier  Island.  The  Neck  and  the  Islands  are  settled  by  a 
picturesque  and  hardy  fishing  population,  whose  centers  are  the  quaint 
out-of-the-world  villages  of  Sandy  Cove,  Free  Port,  and  Westport, 
reached  by  stage  and  ferries  from  Digby.  The  most  important  station 
on  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway,  after  leaving  Digby,  is  Weymouth, 
a  remarkably  pretty  little  ship-building  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sis- 
siboo  River,  some  distance  up  St.  Mary's  Bay.  Weymouth  has  a  large 
West  India  trade,  and  a  population  of  about  1,800.  Two  or  three 
miles  up  the  river  is  the  village  of  Weymouth  Bridge.  The  chief  hotels 
are  the  Weymouth  House  and  Goodwill  Hotel.  A  short  distance  beyond 
foam  the  pretty  Sissiboo  Falls.  Soon  the  railroad  leaves  St.  Mary's 
Bay  and  strikes  through  a  rough  country  dotted  with  trout-waters,  to 
Yar  mouth.  The  most  important  stations  on  this  section  of  the  line  are 
Metcghan,  Brazil  Lake,  Ohio,  and  Hebron.  Yarmouth  has  been  already 
described.  The  train  stops  at  Yarmouth  Station,  and  then  runs  down 
on  to  the  railway  wharf  with  the  passengers  for  the  boat.  Presently 
the  traveler  finds  himself  moving  slowly  down  the  Yarmouth  River, 
emerging  from  whose  narrow  pass  the  boat  heads  straight  across  the 
open  Atlantic  for  Boston. 


K« 


99 


55 

8 


ta 


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8 
S 

5 


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WESTEEE^    OAl^ADA. 


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r-. 

X 

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■ 

• .  ■•■  .■'■ 

""■   .-" 

WESTERN  CANADA. 


In  that  part  of  this  book  devoted  to  Eastern  Canada  a  full  descrip- 
tion of  the  Provinces  of  Ontario  and  of  Quebec,  and  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces,  including  Newfoundland,  is  given.  But  this  is  not  all  of 
the  mighty  empire  known  as  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  West  of  Onta- 
rio is  Manitoba,  and  beyond  are  Assiniboia  and  Saskatchewan.  Then 
comes  Alberta,  and  far  away  on  the  Pacific  Coast  is  British  Columbia, 
which  separates  the  United  States  from  its  northern  territory  of  Alaska. 
The  journey  through  these  provinces  is  described  in  the  following 
pages.  The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  is  the  iron  link  that  connects 
the  East  with  the  West,  and  we  shall  follow  that  route,  for  the  most 
part,  in  our  trip  across  the  continent.  It  is  the  chief  means  of  trans- 
portation, and  with  its  branches  touches  all  points  worthy  of  notice. 
In  the  text  we  shall  continue  the  practice  of  abbreviating  its  title  to 
C.  P.  R. 

Montreal  is  the  great  railway  centre  of  Canada.  It  is  the  main 
terminus  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  and  from  it  through  trains  run  E.  and  W. 
and  S.  Mileage  is  counted  from  it.  A  full  description  of  it — the 
chief  city  of  Canada — has  already  been  given  on  pages  60  to  71  of  this 
book,  but  for  convenience  sake  mention  must  be  made  of  the  meth- 
ods of  reaching  it.  From  Portland,  Me.,  it  may  be  reached  by  the 
Grand  Trunk  Ry.,  and  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  to  Cookshire  Junction, 
and  thence  by  the  C.  P.  R.  From  Boston  there  is  a  choice  of  the  sev- 
eral White  Mountain  routes,  as  the  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  to  Newport 
and  thence  over  the  C.  P.  R.,  or  to  White  River  Junction  and  thence 
over  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  to  St.  Johns,  where  the  Grand  Trunk 
Ry.  is  taken.  From  New  York  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.  or  the 
West  Shore  R.  R.  is  available  to  Albany,  where  connection  is  made  with 
the  Delaware  &  Hudson  R.  R.  to  Rouse's  Point,  and  thence  over  the 
Grand  Trunk  Ry.  again ;  also  by  the  Adirondack  Div.  of  the  New  York 
Central  R.  R.  to  Adirondack  Junction  and  C.  P.  R. 


^Qe 


FBOM  MONTREAL  TO   OTTAWA. 


Montreal  to  Ottawa. 


a.  By  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway. 

The  famous  trip  down  the  Ottawa  River,  with  its  thrilling  passage 
through  the  Lachiue  Rapids,  has  already  been  described  on  page  63,  but 
the  westward  trip  by  the  C.  P.  R.  needs  brief  reference  at  this  point. 
The  Pacific  Express  leaves  Montreal  daily,  except  Sundays,  for  Ottawa, 
and  makes  the  distance  of  120  miles  in  3|  hours.  The  same  train  makes 
the  distance  to  Vancouver  (2,906  miles)  in  exactly  4  days  and  23  hours. 
Sleeping  and  dining  cars  are  attached  to  all  transcontinental  trains. 

As  the  train  leaves  Montreal  it  passes  on  overhead  bridges  through 
the  western  suburbs,  and  in  10  minutes  reaches  Montreal  Junction,  a 
fashionable  residential  suburb  of  Montreal,  that  takes  its  name  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  the  railroad  junction  from  the  Maritime  Provinces,  New 
York,  Boston,  and  Portland,  and  all  trains  to  the  West.  Another  10 
minutes  brings  us  to  Smilt  aux  Recollctn,  and  the  train  crosses  a  branch 
of  the  Ottawa.  French  liames  abound  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  next  sta- 
tion is  St.  Martin  Junction,  so  called  on  account  of  the  divergence  of 
the  line  to  Quebec.  The  N.  branch  of  the  Ottawa  is  crossed  at  iSte.  Rose 
(17  miles).  From  here  on,  the  line  follows  the  N.  bank  of  the  Ot- 
tawa, and  frequent  views  are  had  of  steamboats,  lumber  barges,  and 
rafts  of  timber  as  they  are  passed  on  its  broad  waters.  The  valley 
is  divided  into  narrow,  well-tilled  French  farms,  mostly  devoted  to 
dairy  products.  Picturesque  villages  are  passed  at  intervals,  and 
streams  coming  down  from  the  Laurentian  Hills  on  the  N.  afford  good 
fishing.  At  Ste.  Therese  three  branch  lines  diverge  to  St.  Lin,  La- 
belle,  and  St.  Eustache.  At  Lachute  (44  miles)  there  are  paper  mills, 
wood-working  and  other  industries,  and  it  is  a  shipping  point  for 
dairy  products.  The  Ottawa  Valley  Ry.  runs  from  here  to  St.  Andrew. 
There  are  extensive  saw-mills  at  Calumet  (59  miles),  and  these  occur  at 
frequent  intervals.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  are  the  Caledonia 
Mineral  Springs — a  health  resort,  with  good  hotels  and  attractive  sur- 
roundings, which  are  reached  direct  by  the  C.  P.  R.  short  line  between 
Montreal  and  Ottawa.  From  Buckinffham  (100  miles)  a  branch  extends 
northward  to  phosphate,  mica,  and  graphite  mines.  Soon  after  leaving 
the  station  the  main  line  of  the  railway  crosses,  by  an  iron  bridge,  di- 
rectly over  the  magnificent  falls  of  the  Lievre  River.  After  crossing 
the  Gatineau  River  the  Government  Buildings  in  Ottawa  come  into  view 


PROM   MONTREAL   TO   OTTAWA. 


267 


keeping  N.  on  a  high  cliff  at  the  left.  At  Hull  (118  miles)  an  electric 
railway  diverges,  keeping  N.  of  the  Ottawa,  and  runs  to  Aylmer.  Leav- 
ing Hull,  the  main  line  swings  round,  crosses  a  long  iron  bridge,  from 
whero  a  view  of  the  Chaudifere  Falls  is  obtained,  and  enters  Ottawa. 

h.  By  the  Canada  Atlantic  Railway. 

This  route  is  only  116  miles  long,  and  the  time  occupied  in  making 
the  trip  about  3 J  hours.  The  train  leaves  Montreal  from  the  Bonaven- 
ture  Station  and  follows  the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  along  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Cofeau  Junction  (3*7  miles),  connec- 
tion being  made  with  the  Adirondack  Division  of  the  New  York  Central 
&  Hudson  R.  R.  at  Valley  field,  and  Coteau  Junction  with  the  branch  of 
the  Canada  Atlantic  that  extends  to  Rouse's  Point,  where  it  meets  the 
Central  Vermont  R.  R.  and  the  Delr.ware  &  Hudson  R.  R.  At  St.  Poly- 
carpe  Junction  (4:5  miles)  the  C.  P.  R.  is  crossed,  and  at  Ste.  Justine  (51 
miles)  the  Province  of  Ontario  is  entered.  The  next  place  of  importance 
is  Glen  Robertson  (56  miles),  where  a  branch  extends  21  miles  N.  to 
Hawksbury,  passing  Vankleek  Hill  {14  miles),  where  conveyances  may  be 
had  to  Caledonia  Springs,  a  resort  where  the  waters  are  said  to  be  valu- 
able for  rheumatic  complaints.  Alexandria  (62  miles)  is  the  half-way 
station.  It  is  a  small  manufacturing  town  of  nearly  2,000  inhabitants. 
The  remaining  stations  are  of  small  importance  till  Eastman^s  Springs 
(106  milcL)  is  reached.  This  resort  is  much  frequented  by  the  resi- 
dents of  Ottawa.  As  the  train  approaches  the  city  a  tine  view  of  the 
buildings  may  be  had  from  the  right,  and  after  crossing  the  tracks  of 
the  C.  P.  R.  and  the  Rideau  River  the  Elgin  Street  Station  in  Ottawa  is 
reached. 

Ottawa. 

A  full  description  of  Ottawa  has  already  been  given  on  page  49, 
and  in  addition  to  the  routes  just  mentioned  as  coming  from  Montreal, 
it  is  directly  accessible  from  the  S.  by  means  of  a  branch  of  the 
C.  P.  R.  that  extends  to  Prescott,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Ogdens- 
burg,  opposite,  on  the  American  side,  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  R.  R.,  that  connects  with  the  New 
York  Central  R.  R.  at  Utica,  Rome,  Syracuse,  Rochester,  and  Buffalo, 
thus  affording  direct  access  from  the  chief  railroad  centres  of  the  United 
States.  There  are  also  Grand  Trunk  connections  from  Toronto  at  Brock- 
ville  and  Prescott,  and  direct  connection  from  Toronto  over  the  C.  P.  R. 
by  way  of  Smith's  Falls  and  Carleton  Junction. 


f 


I 


1 


r 


268 


OTTAWA   TO   SUDBURY. 


Ottawa  to  Sudbury. 


Leaving  Ottawa,  the  C.  P.  R.  follows  the  S.  bank  of  the  Ottawa 
River  for  several  miles,  and  on  its  wide  stretches  may  be  seen  enormous 
quantities  of  saw-logs  held  in  "  booms  "  for  the  use  of  the  mills  below. 
The  little  villages  of  Skead  and  Britavnia  are  passed,  and  the  river  dis- 
appears as  the  train  continues  to  the  S.  Several  stations  come  in  eight 
and  are  quickly  left  behind  until  Carldon  Place  (148  miles  from  Mont- 
real) is  reached.  Here  are  large  saw-mills,  railway  and  other  workshops. 
It  is  also  the  junction  of  the  main  line  with  the  Ottawa  and  Brockville 
section  that  extends  45  miles  to  Brockville,  where,  after  crossing  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  Morristown,  on  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg 
R.  R.,  is  reached.  Smith's  Falls,  13  miles  S.  of  Carleton  Place,  on 
the  Brockville  section,  is  a  junction  on  the  Ontario  and  Quebec  division 
between  Montreal  and  Toronto.  Returning  to  the  main  line  and  after 
leaving  Cai-leton  the  route  is  in  a  northwesterly  direction  and  through 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Ottawa,  which  for  a  hundred  or  more  miles 
is  well  cultivated  by  English,  Scotch,  and  German  farmers.  Large, 
clear  streams  come  rushing  down  to  the  river  from  the  hills  in  the  W., 
and  in  these  fine  fishing  is  to  be  had,  especially  maskinonge,  trout,  and 
bass.  At  Almonte  there  are  large  woollen  mills,  and  Pakenham,  8 
miles  beyond,  is  another  manufacturing  point.  Renfrew,  69  miles  from 
Ottawa,  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Kingston  &  Pembroke  Ry.,  that 
extends  104  miles  S.  through  a  district  abounding  in  iron  to  Kings- 
ton on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  At- 
lantic and  Northwestern  branch,  that  extends  23  miles  to  Eganville. 
Renfrew  is  a  lively  town  of  some  3,000  inhabitanis.  The  road  tleu 
curves  to  the  N.  and  reaches  the  river  again  near  Pembroke  (224 
miles)  {Copeland  Hotel),  the  chief  place  of  the  Upper  Ottawa  Valley.  It 
has  nearly  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  numerous  industrial  es- 
tablishments and  several  saw-mills.  The  river  expands  here  into  a  broad 
sheet  called  Alluraette  Lake,  and  is  a  famous  locality  for  trout  fishing. 
The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  tine,  especially  at  the  narrows  at  the  head 
of  the  lake.  Charaplain  ascended  the  Ottawa  River  in  canoes  as  far  as 
this  point  in  lfil3.  From  Pembroke  to  Mattawa  the  distance  is  94 
miles,  and  the  route  is  almost  entirely  along  the  W.  bank  of  the  river. 
The  chief  industry  of  this  region  is  lumber,  and  saw-mills  occur  wher- 
ever water  power  is  available,  forming  centres  around  which  the  few 
inhabitants  cluster.     As  the  country  grows  wilder  the  opportunities  for 


OTTAWA   TO    SUDBURY. 


209 


'ial  es- 
broad 
shing. 
head 
tar  as 
IS  94 
river, 
wher- 
!  few 
a  for 


sport  with  giin  and  rod  increase.  Chnlk  River  is  a  divisional  point, 
with  engine-house  and  tlie  usual  railway  buildings,  and  also  a  restau- 
rant.    Bockliffe  and  Klork  are  the  larger  stations. 

Mattawa)  818  miles  (WenUrn  Hotel),  an  important  distributing 
point  for  the  lumber  regions,  at  the  junction  of  the  Ottawa  and  Mattawa 
Rivers  (hence  its  name,  signifying  "  The  Forks  "),  was  formerly  a  trad- 
ing post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  It  is  a  favourite  centre  for  moose 
hunters,  and  guides  and  supplies  for  shooting  expeditions  may  always 
be  obtained  here.  Lake  Temiscamingue  is  S8  miles  to  the  N.,  toward 
which  a  branch  of  the  road  is  built,  with  a  branch  to  Lake  Kippewa 
(46  miles  from  Mattawn).  This  region  is  attracting  a  large  number 
of  settlers.  To  the  S.  of  the  railway  is  Algonipiin  Park  (12  miles), 
a  picturesque  tract  of  land  of  1,466  square  mdes,  that  was  set  apart 
by  the  Government  of  Ontario  in  1 893  for  the  preservation  of  game 
and  forests  and  as  a  public  pleasure  and  health  resort.  After  leav- 
ing  Mattawa  the  route  passes  through  a  somewhat  wild  and  broken 
country,  with  frequent  lakes  and  rapid  streams,  toward  Lake  Nipis- 
sing,  Bonjield  (344  miles)  was  originally  intended  as  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  to  which  connecting  roads  would  run ;  but 
with  the  transfer  of  control  from  the  Government  to  the  corporation 
the  line  was  extended  to  Montreal.  Nipimng  Junction  is  the  point 
where  the  Grand  Trunk  Ry.  from  Toronto,  after  passing  through  the  re- 
gion of  Lake  Simcoe  and  the  Muskoka  lakes,  reaches  the  track  of  the 
C.  P.  R,  on  its  way  to  North  Bcii/  [IWiJic  Jlotel),  the  terminus  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  extension.  This  place  is  on  Lake  Nipissing,  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  40  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide,  with  forest  clad  shores 
and  islands.  Small  steamers  ply  on  the  lake,  and  boats  for  sailing  and 
rowing  are  easily  procurable.  Its  waters  contain  the  maskinonge,  pike, 
bass,  and  pickerel,  and  good  shooting  can  be  had  in  the  surrounding 
country.  North  Bay  is  a  railway  divisional  point,  and  contains  the  usual 
repair  shops.  The  route  continues  along  the  north  shore  of  the  lake  past 
several  unimportant  stations  until  Cache  Bay  is  reached,  and  then  turns 
slightly  to  the  N.,  passing  through  a  comparatively  wild  region  where 
forests,  meadows,  lakes,  and  rocky  ridges  alternate.  The  scenery  is 
striking,  and  at  places  extremely  interesting.  Beai*,  moose,  and  deer 
abound  .iroughout  this  territory,  and  the  flshmg  in  the  many  lakes  and 
rivers  is  excellent.  The  principal  industry  of  this  region  is  timber  cut- 
ting. Sudbury  (443  miles),  the  terminus  ot  the  division,  is  an  important 
centre.    The  most  extensive  copper  and  nickel  ieposits  in  the  world, 


270 


HUnniTRY   TO   SAUFT   8TK.    MARIE. 


II 


perhapa,  are  in  the  iininediatt'  vicinity.  Siiieltinp;  furniU'CH  have  been 
erected  for  the  rediu'tion  of  the  «)ros  on  the  spot.  It  is  interestinj^  to 
note  that  anions  these  nietiilliferoiis  deposits  the  only  l\nown  native  salts 
of  platinum  liave  ever  been  found.  Tliere  is  a  raihoad  restaurant  at 
the  station,  and  a  hotel  in  the  town.     The  population  is  about  1,700. 

Sudbury  to  Sault  Ste.  Marie. 

From  Sudbuiy  a  braneh  extends  westward  182  miles  to  Sault  Ste. 
Marie.  The  route  has  no  special  features,  and  the  stations  are  unim- 
portant until  Ahjotud  Mills  is  reached.  Here  Lake  Huron  comes  in 
sif^ht,  and  the  town  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  iniportant  lumberin}^ 
ports  on  the  lake.  Thereafter  the  lake  continues  in  view  until  B^'uce 
Afhies  is  reached.  Formerly  the  copper  deposits  existing  here  were 
worked.  From  Desbaiats  the  myriad  of  islands  chistering  around  the 
shore  are  reached.  IVrany  of  these  have  been  surveyed  by  the  Ontario 
Government,  and  were  ])urchase(l  for  stimmer  homes.  JSmilt  Sfc.  Marie 
{fntervatioHdl  J/otd),  in  Ontario,  is  a  prosperous  place,  and  is  connected 
by  means  of  an  iron  bridge  a  mile  long  over  Sault  River  with  Sault  Ste. 
Marie  in  Michigan,  which  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Duluth,  South 
Shore,  k  Atlantic  Ky.  running  to  Duluth,  and  with  the  Minneai)olis, 
St.  Paul  &  Sault  Ste.  Marie  Ry.  rumiiug  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis, 
and  thence  through  Minnesota  and  North  Dakota  to  Portal  in  As- 
siniboia,  where  it  again  connects  with  the  V.  P.  R.  System.  Through 
trains  from  Sudbury  to  Sault  Ste.  Marie  make  the  trip  in  •>  hours,  and 
it  is  not  necessary  to  change  cars  for  points  in  the  United  States.  For 
those  who  prefer  it  the  steamers  of  the  C.  P.  S.  S.  line  aie  available  for 
a  trip  across  L.ike  Superior,  connecting  again  at  Fort  William  with  the 
main  line  of  the  C.  P.  R. 

Sudbury  to  Winnipeg. 

With  our  faces  turned  to  the  W.  we  leave  Sudbury  and  start  on  a 
long  journey  of  *.>!S1  miles.  As  we  leave  the  little  town  the  train  passes 
over  the  falls  of  the  Sturgeon  River,  and  our  direction  is  to  the  N. 
W.  Rivers  and  lakes  are  passed,  and  at  Lnrchwood  (461  miles)  we 
reach  Vermilion  Lake.  As  the  api)roach  is  made  to  Onojnng  the  high 
falls  (150  ft.)  of  the  Vermilion  River  come  in  sight,  and  an  excellent 
view  of  them  is  obtained  from  the  cars,  (^artier  (478  miles)  is  a  divi- 
sional point,  with  a  restaurant  and  various  railroad  structures.  It  was 
once  a  trading  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.     From  here  to  Biscotasing 


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NOUTII    8IIOUK   OK    LAKK   SUIMOItlOR. 


271 


(fili2  iiiilcH)  the  HooiH'ry  in  ruiniirkahly  Hiio.  HiHcotaHiiiK  IH  on  an  irrcg< 
ular  lake  of  tin;  Haiiio  naiiu>,  mid  altlioiigli  its  population  douH  not  vx- 
C'vcd  {SOO,  it  liHH  a  lar^u  trade  in  furs  and  liinilier.  Ever  onward  the 
iron  Htced  hurries,  liaitin^  here  and  tliere  for  a  brief  moment  at  Homo 
ohHciirc  Htation,  ({iiiekly  croHnin^  In'idgen  over  Hwiftly  running  riverH 
wluwe  Htreiin-*  runli  to  add  their  waterw  to  tlioHeof  the  (ireat  LakcH,  and 
past  lonely  lakes  whose  virgin  waters  still  await  the  white  tishcrnian. 
Finally  Vh<i/>fmu  ({SXl)  miles),  (m  Lake  Kinogama,  is  rcaehed.  It  Ih  a 
divisional  point,  and  has  the  usual  railway  workshops,  with  eottages  for 
the  men  and  their  families.  There  is  a  restaurant  at  the  station.  At 
Wimlcrinnr  (♦'•44  miles),  near  liake  Mipissi,  there  are  iron  mines,  and 
after  crossing  Dog  Lakt;  the  station  of  MissatHt/nc  ((J75  miles)  is  reached. 
This  point  was  well  known  long  before  the  days  of  the  railroad,  for  it 
was  a  rendrzvom  of  the  voi/o(/curn  who  biought  their  furs  from  the  N. 
up  the  waters  of  the  Moose  Kiver  (that  flows  to  Hudson  Hay)  and 
thenee  by  short  portage  to  Dog  Lake,  whose  outlet,  the  Miehipieoten 
River,  leads  to  Lake  Superior.  (Jold  mines  have  recently  been  discov- 
ered on  Lake  Wawa  to  the  S.  of  this  point,  and  are  now  being  devel- 
oped. Foi'  some  distance  beyond  there  are  no  points  of  H[)eeial  interest, 
although  the  numerous  railroad  cuttings  testify  to  the  skill  of  the  en- 
gineers by  whom  the  railroa<l  was  built.  White  River  (747  miles) 
is  a  divisional  point,  with  the  aee^mipsuiying  workshops  and  railroad 
restaurant.  There  are  also  large  cattle  ya ids  here  that  are  used  to 
rest  the  live  stock  in  on  their  way  to  the  Eastern  markets.  The  route 
continues  along  the  left  bank  of  the  White  Kiver,  which  it  crosses  at 
Brcmmer  (7(4;^  miles),  and  then  passes  Kound  Lake,  where  good  fishing 
is  to  be  had.  The  liig  Pic  lliver  is  crossed  by  a  high  iron  bridge, 
and  a  mile  beyond  is  Heron  Bay  (802  miles),  on  the  northeast  end  of 
Lake  Superior. 

North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior. 

For  60  miles  beyond  this  point  the  route  is  continued  through 
and  around  the  bold  and  harsh  promontories  of  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  with  deep  i-ock  cuttings,  viaducts,  and  tunnels  constantly  oc- 
curring, and  at  intervals  where  the  railway  is  cut  out  of  the  face  of 
the  cliffs  the  lake  comes  into  full  view.  The  scenery  is  an  important 
consideration  on  this  part  of  the  journey,  and  in  order  that  the  tourist 
may  enjoy  it  as  much  as  possible  the  time  schedule  is  arranged  for  the 
westward  trip  so  that  the  lake  views  may  be  enjoyed  by  daylight. 


r 


'in'i. 


NORTH  SHORE  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


II 


i>    I 


Peninsula  (811  miles)  is  a  small  station  on  the  lake,  and  then  comes 
the  sweep  around  Jackfish  Bay,  which  is  of  special  interest  on  account 
of  the  scenery.  The  bay  itself  is  a  great  fishing  resort,  and  its  waters  "^ 
abound  in  white  fish,  sturgeon,  and  the  famous  lake  trout.  Schreibcr 
(865  miles)  is  a  divisional  point,  and  a  convenient  place  to  start  from  on 
a  fishing  expedition.  The  lake  turns  inward  from  here  to  form  Nepigon 
Bay,  which  is  separated  from  the  lake  by  a  group  of  islands,  the  largest 
of  which  is  St.  Ignace.  Some  of  the  heaviest  work  on  the  entire  line  of 
the  railway  occurs  in  this  vicinity,  especially  just  beyond  Eossport  (880 
miles).  The  constantly  changing  views  on  Nepigon  Bay  are  charming. 
All  of  the  streams  emptying  into  Lake  Superior  contain  speckled  trout 
in  plenty,  and  in  some  of  thf5  streams,  Nepigon  River  especially,  they 
are  noted  for  their  large  size — six-pounders  being  not  uncommon.  The 
river  is  a  beautiful  stream,  well  known  to  sportsmen,  and  is  crossed  by 
a  fine  iron  bridge  a  little  before  reaching  the  station.  At  its  mouth  on 
the  bay  is  the  station  of  Nepigon,  928  miles  ( Taylor''s  Hotel).  Three  - 
miles  beyond  Nepigon  the  railway  turns  around  the  bsise  of  Red  Rock,  a 
high,  bright-red  cliff,  and,  avoiding  the  heads  of  Black  Bay  and  Thun- 
der Bay,  takes  a  straight  southwesterly  course,  and  from  the  higher 
elevations  delightful  views  of  Thunder  Bay  are  to  be  had.  A  few  un- 
important stations  are  passed,  and  then  we  reach  Port  Arthur,  993  miles 
{The  Northern),  a  lake  town  of  some  3,000  inhabitants,  with  steamboat 
connection  tri-weekly  with  Sault  Ste.  Marie  and  Duluth.  The  steamers 
of  the  C.  P.  S.  S.  line  for  Fort  William  usually  call  here.  Besides  its 
opportunities  for  fishing  there  is  excellent  shooting  to  be  had  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, including  bears,  deer,  and  even  moose  and  caribou.  Since 
1882  some  interest  has  been  developed  in  the  gold  and  silver  mines  in 
the  vicinity.  It  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Port  Arthur,  Duluth, 
&  Western  Ry.  that  runs  S.  to  the  Iron  Range.  Five  miles  beyond 
is  Fort  William,  998  miles  (Kanihiistiquia  Hotel).  It  is  on  the  Kami- 
nistiquia  River,  a  deep,  broad  stream  with  firm  banks,  a  few  miles 
above  its  mouth  on  Lake  Superior,  thus  affording  great  advantages  for 
lake  traffic.  The  town  is  pleasantly  situated.  A  long  promontory  of 
basaltic  rock  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  called  the  "  Sleeping 
Giant,"  whose  Indian  legend  takes  one  back  to  aboriginal  days,  termi- 
nates in  Thunder  Cape,  behind  which  lies  the  once  famous  Silver  Islet, 
which  has  yielded  almost  fabulous  wealth.  Pie  Island,  another  moun- 
tain of  columnar  basalt,  divides  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  which  is 
flanked  on  the  W.  by  Mackay  Mountain,  overlooking  Fort  William. 


\ 


NORTH   SHORE  OP  LAKE  STTPERIOR, 


273 


Looking  W.,  between  Pie  Island  and  Thunder  Cape,  Isle  Royale  may 
be  seen  in  the  distance.  Fort  William  is  the  western  terminus  of  the 
eastern  division  of  the  C.  P.  R.  and  of  the  C,  P,  S.  S.  line,  so  that  passen- 
gers for  the  extreme  W.  who  followed  the  route  from  Sudbury  to  Sault 
Ste.  Marie  and  there  took  the  steamer  or  embarked  at  Owen  Sound  on 
Georgian  Bay  to  cross  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  now  return  to  the  train. 
The  station  is  connected  with  the  wharf  by  means  of  a  foot-bridge.  On 
the  river  banks  in  recent  years  four  large  grain  elevators,  with  a  capa- 
city of  5,000,000  bushels,  have  been  built.  Fort  William  is  the  natural 
outlet  for  large  quantities  of  grain  that  come  from  Manitoba  and  the 
Northwest  Territories  to  be  shipped  to  the  various  lake  ports.  The  set- 
tlement is  an  old  one  and  dates  back  to  the  last  century.  In  1801  it  be- 
came a  port  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  to  which  the  Indians  came  in  their 
canoes  down  the  Kaministiquia  River  and  connecting  streams  to  sell  their 
furs.  The  fur  house  of  the  old  fort  is  now  used  as  an  engine  house  for 
the  coal  docks.  West-bound  passengers  should  set  their  watches  back 
one  hour  in  conformity  with  central  standard  time,  and  from  here  on 
the  twenty-four-hour  time  system  is  in  use — that  is,  time  is  reckoned 
continuously  from  midnight  to  midnight;  thus  1  p.  m.  is  called  13 
o'clock. 

After  leaving  Fort  William  the  train  passes  a  few  miles  of  partially 
cleared  farm  land,  and  then  plunges  into  a  wild,  broken  region  that 
continues  for  hundreds  of  miles.  The  route  passes  many  lakes  and 
crosses  rapid  rivers.  Forests  with  valuable  timber  come  and  go  as  the 
train  pushes  onward,  and  mineral  deposits,  the  wealth  of  which  is  yet 
to  be  developed,  fade  in  the  distance  as  the  journey  westward  contin- 
ues. Murillo  (1,011  miles)  is  the  railway  crossing  of  the  Port  Arthur, 
Duluth,  and  Western  Ry.  that  runs  to  the  Rabbit  Mountain  silver  min- 
ing district.  The  Kakabeka  Falls,  formed  by  the  Kaministiquia  River, 
are  4  miles  from  the  station.  They  are  130  ft.  high  and  450  ft. 
wide.  The  railway  follows  the  river  for  some  distance,  and  excellent 
trout  fishing  is  to  be  had  near  the  stations.  It  was  through  this  region 
that  Wolseley  led  his  army  from  Fort  William  to  Winnipeg  in  1870, 
using  the  more  or  less  connected  rivers  and  lakes  much  of  the  way.  Sta- 
tions are  passed  at  regular  intervals,  but  they  are  only  "  water  tanks 
and  footprints — little  else."  Some  of  their  names — Finmark  (1,031 
miles),  iVbrrffewf?  (1,049  miles),  Linkooping  (1,059  miles),  and  Upsala 
(1,080  miles) — indicate  their  settlement  bj  immigrants  from  Scandina- 
via. Ignace  (1,146  miles)  is  a  divisional  point,  with  a  restaurant  at 
18 


274 


NORTH  SHORE  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


the  station.  The  Wabigoon  River  soon  comes  in  sight,  and  the  train 
continues  along  its  banlts,  past  numerous  lal:es  tliat  are  noted  chiefly 
for  the  excellent  fishing  they  afford,  and  their  stations.  Wabigooti  (1,196 
miles)  is  a  growing  town  which  came  into  existence  in  consequence  of 
the  gold-mines  in  the  Manitou  country  to  the  S.,  with  which  it  has 
steamboat  communicatiom.  At  DryJen  (1,209  miles)  the  Ontario 
Government  has  established  an  experimental  farm,  there  being  a  large 
area  of  fertile  land  in  the  vicinity.  At  Eagle  Jiivtr  (1,226  miles)  there 
are  two  waterfalls  that  may  be  seen,  one  above  and  the  other  below  the 
railway.  The  route  passes  through  numerous  rocky  uplifts,  and  the 
scenery  is  often  of  the  wildest  description,  with  deep,  vock-bound  lakes 
<;outinuously  in  sight.  Rat  Portage  (1,291  miles)  i.<  an  important  town 
oi  4,500  inhabitants,  with  several  large  saw-mills,  on  the  princi{)al  out- 
Iv -u  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  This  lake,  65  miles  long  and  from  10 
t,(»  50  miles  wide,  is  the  largest  body  of  water  touched  by  the  railway 
i»ctAveen  Lake  Superior  and  the  Pacific,  and  is  the  fhief  waterway  to 
'lie  gold  fields  of  the  Rainy  Lake  and  Seine  River  districts.  It  is 
studded  with  islands,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  sportsmen  and 
pleasure-seekers.  Its  waters  break  through  a  narrow  rocky  rim  at 
Rat  Portage  and  Keewatin  and  fall  into  the  Winnipeg  River.  The 
cascades  are  most  picturesque,  and  have  been  utilized  for  water-power 
for  a  number  of  large  saw-mills,  while  at  the  lower  end  it  connects 
with  Rainy  Lake  by  the  Rainy  River.  Steamers  leave  Rat  Portage 
nearly  every  day  in  summer  for  Fort  Frances  and  the  Rainy  Lake 
region.  The  falls  of  the  Winnipeg  are  seen  to  the  right  as  the 
train  passes  over  the  open-work  bridge  on  leaving  Rat  Portage.  A 
steam  ferry  connects  Keewatin  (1,296  liiiles)  (noted  for  its  huge  flour- 
mill,  built  of  granite  quarried  on  the  spot,  and  powder  works)  and  Rat 
Portage.  IngoIf{l,S22  miles)  is  the  last  station  iu  Ontario,  and  Telford 
(1,333  miles)  the  first  in  M.tuito' ;  At  Whiteynouth  (1,363  miles),  on 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  tiiat  empties  in  dte  Winnipeg  a  few  miles 
to  the  N.,  are  more  saw-mills,  The  country  now  flattens  out  and  gradu- 
ally assumes  the  characteristics  of  a  prairie.  Little  farms  and  pastures 
come  in  sight.  Near  East  Selkirk  (1,403  miles)  a  Government  fish 
hatchery  has  been  established,  and  here  the  route  turns  southward,  fol- 
lowing the  line  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North  to  St.  Boniface^  where  the 
river  is  crossed  by  a  long  iron  bridge,  and  Winnipeg  is  reached. 


MANITOBA. 


275 


Manitoba. 

This  province  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Saskatchewan  and  Keewatin, 
on  the  E.  by  Ontario,  on  the  S.  by  the  States  of  Minnesota  and  North 
Dakota,  and  on  the  W,  by  Assiniboia.  From  E.  to  W.  it  extends 
about  300  miles,  and  it  covers  an  area  of  73,956  square  miles.  Ac- 
cording to  the  census  of  1891,  it  had  a  population  of  152, 50(),  which  has 
sincr  jen  materially  increased  by  immigration.  Its  S.  boundary  being 
the  torty-ninth  parallel  of  latitude,  it  is  therefore  S.  of  (Jreat  Britain, 
but,  notwithstanding,  it  suffers  extremes  of  climate.  The  summer  mean 
is  from  66"  to  67°  F.,  but  in  winter  it  sometimes  falls  to  30",  and  even 
60",  below  zero.  The  atmosphere,  however,  is  bright  and  dry,  and  the 
sensation  of  cold  is  not  so  unpleasant  as  that  of  a  cold  temperature  in 
a  humid  atmosphere.  The  general  features  of  the  province  are  those 
of  a  broad,  rolling  prairie,  relieved  at  intervals  by  gently  rising  hills 
and  numerous  bluffs  and  lakelets.  Manitoba  is  therefore  essentially  an 
agricultural  country.  The  soil  is  a  firm,  rich,  black,  argillaceous 
mould  or  loam,  resting  in  a  deep  and  very  tenacious  clay  subsoil.  It  is 
nearly,  if  not  quite,  the  wettest  soil  m  the  world,  and  is  especially 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat.  In  1895  over  30,000,000  bushels  of 
wheat,  in  addition  to  30,000,000  bushels  of  other  grains,  were  harvested 
by  26,000  farmers.  Small  fruits,  such  as  strawberries,  raspberries, 
currants,  gooseberries,  cranberries,  plums,  etc.,  are  plentiful.  The 
prairie  farms  are  well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  horses  and  cattle,  and 
since  1891  cattle  have  been  regularly  exported  from  Manitoba  to  Eng- 
land, the  trade  now  having  reached  large  proportions.  The  raising  of 
pigs  and  sheep  is  attracting  attention,  and  dairy  faiming  is  engaging  an 
increasing  amount  of  interest.  To  tiie  sportsman  the  beai'tiful  flocks 
of  prairie  chickens,  and  the  mallard,  the  teal,  the  butter-ball,  the  red-head, 
and  other  varieties  of  duck  are  among  tlie  attractions,  while  those  who 
fa'icy  larger  game  find  the  deer,  the  black  and  cinnamon  bear,  the  elk, 
the  moose,  and  the  antelope  in  abundance.  Coal  mines  have  been  opened 
in  the  S.  W.  end  of  the  province.  Important  cities,  like  Winnipeg, 
Brandon,  and  Portage  la  Prairie,  offer  market  opportunities,  and 
Winnipecc  especially  affords  educational  advantages  of  unusual  ex- 
cellence. The  railroad  facilities  are  very  good,  and  Winnipeg  is  the 
chief  railroad  center.  Besides  the  C.  P.  R.  and  its  branches,  the  North- 
ern Pacific  and  the  Great  Northern  R.  Rs.  afford  communication  with 
the  S.,  while  the  Manitoba  and  Northwestern  Ry.  and  Dauphin  Ry.  are 


?;a.   ■;^-iir':' 


276 


WINNIPEG. 


pushing  their  wny  to  the  N.  and  N.  W.     Winnipeg  is  the  seat  of  pro- 
vincial government. 

Winnipeg. 

HotelH. — The  MaiiUohn,  over  tlie  Northern  Pacifii'  R,  R.  station, 
$8  to  §4  a  (lay  ;  Lrhnitf  I/onsi',  jfN'i  to  $ii ;  (Jiarcndoii,  Portage  Ave., 
4th  St.,  South,  .SI. 50  to  .'^JISO;  Qnvcti'H  and  irm«//«/7  are  less  expen- 
sive. Be>ides  the  restaurants  at  the  railway  stations  there  ai'e  the  Crl- 
teriov  and  Eht/fish  on  Main  St. 

Modes  of  Conveyance. — Kleetrie  ears  run  through  the  main 
thoroughfares  and  to  the  subiu'bs  (fare,  5  cents).  Cabs  can  be  had  at 
the  stations,  and  50  cents  is  the  charge  for  one  or  two  passengers 
for  short  distances,  as  from  station  to  hotel.     By  the  hour,  $1. 

Rail  wny  Stations. — The  V.  P.  K  Station,  on  Main  St.,  North,  is 
used  by  the  C  P.  li.  and  all  roads  except  the  Northern  Pacillc  R.  R., 
whose  station  is  on  the  cornei-  of  Main  and  Water  Sts. 

The  Post-Office  is  on  the  corner  of  Main  and  Owen  Sts. ;  is  open 
from  8  A.  M.  to  7  i'.  m. 

Club.— The  Manitoba  Club  is  in  (Jarry  St. 

Winnipeg,  the  capital  of  Manitoba,  is  on  a  flat  plain  at  the  junction 
of  the  Assiniboine  and  Red  Rivers,  both  of  which  are  navigable  by 
steamers ;  the  latter  extends  about  40  miles  N.  to  Lake  Winnipeg,  a 
great  inland  sea  resembling  the  U.  S.  Great  Lakes,  some  200  miles  long 
and  from  6  to  60  miles  in  width.  It  was  the  Fort  (iarry  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Co.,  and  had  a  population  of  about  2»>0  in  1870,  which  increased 
to  7,985  in  1881,  and  to  25,(142  in  18i>l,  while  now  (1898)it  hasapopu- 
lation  of  about  45,000.  The  name  Winnipeg,  which  it  took  in  1881, 
is  derived  from  the  Indian  Duinipigou,  signifying  muddy  water.  The 
streets  are  wide  ami  well  laid  out.  Many  of  the  buildings  are  sub- 
stantial and  worthy  of  notice.  Conspicuous  among  them  is  the  City 
Hall,  on  Main  St.,  in  front  of  which  stands  a  memorial  eolumn  that  has 
been  erected  in  memory  of  the  volunteers  who  fell  in  the  rebellion  in 
1885.  Near  by  is  the  Afirke/,  and  the  Grain  Exchange,  with  the  Board 
of  Trade,  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  Post  Office  building,  the 
Ciistom  HoiiNe,  and  the  site  of  old  Fort  Garry  are  all  on  Main  St.  The 
Hud'iou  Bail  Co.^s  Stores  are  interesting,  and  the  history  of  their  early 
trading  is,  the  connecting  link  between  the  past  and  the  present.  The 
Parliament  House  on  Broadway,  with  the  residence  of  the  Licutcnavt- 
Governor,  and  Fort  Osborne,  the  military  headcpiarters,  together  with 
the  Co^lrt  Hotcse  and  the  Provincial  Jail,  are  in  the  vicinity.  Among 
the  churches  are  All  Saints',  Trinity,  St.  Mary's,  Grace,  Westminster, 
and  Knox  Church,    The  institutions  for  higher  education  include  Afani- 


WINNIPEG   TO    KK(JINA. 


277 


toha  College^  St,  Jo/ni\s  Kinxcopul  Collvgt'^  Wcxhtf  Collccfe,  and  the  Afani- 
toha  A/fdiritl  CoUcifc.  Tho  <J!(if  llosj>Hiil  and  tho  Vmvhwhd  Dcnf  and 
Durtd)  Lixfitutr  are  conspicuous  anion<;  the  ek't'inosynary  institutionH. 
Ill  the  suburbs  are  several  extensive  pleasure  grounds,  'ind  other  plots 
are  being  beautified.  Winnipeg  is  also  an  important  railway  center. 
It  contains  the  chief  workshops  of  the  (3.  V.  R.  between  Montreal 
and  the  Pacific,  and  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  have  their  terminal 
workshops  here.  It  is  the  chief  land  otHce  of  the  Donunion  in  the  W., 
and  the  principal  land  olhccs  of  the  C.  P.  R.  are  in  the  Union  Station. 
Northward  the  C.  ]'.  R.  has  a  branch  runtiing  2'.^  miles  to  West  Selkirk, 
also  one  to  the  N.  W.  20  miles  to  Htnnnvnll.  The  Manitoba  and 
Northwestern  R.  R.  of  Canada  runs  on  the  tracks  of  the  main  line  of 
the  (J.  P.  R.  to  Portage  la  Prnirie,  where  it  connet  ts  with  a  branch  of 
the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.,  and  turns  to  the  N.  W.,  finding  its  north- 
ern terminus  in  Yorktown,  Assiniboia,  27*.*  miles  from  Winnipeg.  The 
Dauphin  Ry.  branches  off  fiom  the  Manitoba  and  Northwestern  Ry.  at 
(iladstone  Junction,  and  runs  159  miles  to  Lake  Winnipeffosvt.  The 
0.  P.  R.  has  two  branches  leading  southward,  one  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Red  River  to  Emerson  (t)*)  miles)  and  the  other  to  Gretna  (69 
miles),  on  the  U.  S.  boundary,  connecting  at  the  latter  point  with  the 
train  service  of  the  (ireat  Nofthern  R.  R.  Two  branch  lines  of  the 
C.  P.  R.  go  S.  W.  to  Soiiris  and  Naphika  in  southern  Manitoba,  150 
and  221  miles  distant  respectively,  and  there  connect  with  the  branch 
line  from  lirandon  (i-onnecting  also  here  with  the  Northen  Pacific 
R.  R.)  through  to  Estvvan,  the  jimction  with  the  Soo-Pacific  line  that 
runs  eastward  to  Sault  Ste.  Marie  bv  way  of  St.  Paid  and  Minneapolis. 
A  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  from  St.  Paul  leaves  the 
inain  line  at  Winnipeg  Junetion  in  Minnest)ta  and  extends  to  Winnipeg, 
passing  through  Grand  Forks  and  Pembina  in  Dakota. 


I  I 

I. 


li 


'er, 
ni- 


Winnipeg  to  Regina. 

A  stop  of  about  one  hour  is  usually  made  in  Winnipeg,  and  then 
the  train  starts  westward  again.  On  leaving  the  city  the  country  seems 
level  and  bare.  It  is  unoccupied,  because  the  land  is  largely  held  by 
speculators,  and  the  few  farms  that  are  passed  are  devoted  to  dairy 
products  and  cattle  breeding.  After  leaving  Poplar  Point  (1,464 
miles)  farms  ajipear  almost  continuously,  and  the  prairie  during  harvest 
time  affords  the  glorious  sight  of  the  wheat  that  eloquently  though 


278 


WINNIPKO    TO   REOINA. 


Bilontly  ti'stifics  to  the  f.'reat  riehni'ss  of  the  soil.  The  line  of  trees  to 
the  S.  iimrks  tlu  cour.se  of  the  Assiniboinc  River,  which  the  railway 
follows  for  a  little  over  100  miles.  Notwithsttiiidiiif^  the  appni»;iu  flat- 
ness of  the  land  there  is  a  gradual  ascent  of  100  feet  between  Winni- 
I)ef^  and  /'«  '  'jtc  /n  /'rtiiric  {Lcl(iii</,  Alhion)  (1,4H()  miles).  This  place 
is  (m  the  Assiniboiiie  River,  and  ha-  a  population  of  4,500.  It  is  the 
market  town  of  a  rich  and  populous  district,  and  Mie  of  the  principal 
grain  mai  kets  in  the  province.  There  are  large  flou,  iiig-mills  and  grain 
elevators,  a  hrewcrv,  biscuit  factory,  and  other  industries  here.  The 
3Iaiiitoba  and  Northwestern  liy.  extends  'is^  miles  N.  W.  to  Yorktown, 
w  th  branches  at  Minncdosa  to  Rapid  City,  and  at  Binscarth  to  Russell. 
Th.-  Manitoba  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  extends  to  Portage 
la  Prairie. 

After  passing  through  a  bushy  district,  with  frequent  ponds  and  small 
streams,  the  railway  rises  fiom  Ausim  (1,509  miles)  along  a  sandy  slope 
to  a  plateau  with  an  area  of  over  100,000  scpiare  miles,  forming  a  line 
wheat-growing  region.  Cnrhern^  (1,5;50  miles)  is  in  the  centre  of  the 
district,  and  is  its  chief  graiti  market.  From  'JSewcll  {\  ,5SS  miles)  the  route 
descends  again  to  the  valley  of  the  Assiniboine.  To  the  southwest  are 
seen  the  Urandon  Hills  From  Chater  (1,551  miles)  the  Great  North- 
west Central  Ry.,  ru::ning  northwestward  toward  Saskatchewan,  is  open 
to  Uamiota  (5(i  miles).  J'our  miles  beyond  the  station  the  Assiniboine 
River  is  crossed  by  ai  iron  bridge,  and  the  divisional  point  of  Brandon 
(1,557  miles)  {Lan<jham.  and  Grand  View)  is  reached.  This  town  is 
beautifully  situated  on  liigii  ground,  and,  although  it  can  almost  be  said 
to  have  come  with  tht  railway,  it  is  now  the  second  city  of  Manitoba, 
with  a  population  of  nei.riy  (),000  inhabitants.  It  has  excellent  paved 
streets  and  many  substar.'tial  buildings.  Brandon  is  a  distributing  mar- 
ket for  an  extensive  and  well-settled  country.  It  is  also  the  largest 
grain  market  of  the  province,  having  five  grain  elevators.  There  is  an 
experimental  farm  here  under  the  care  of  the  Government  officials. 
The  standard  time  changes  fiom  "  central  "  to  "  mountain"  time,  which 
is  one  hour  slower  as  we  go  W.  Besides  being  a  divisional  point  it  is 
also  an  important  railroad  cente'-.  The  Pipestone  branch  is  open  to 
Reston,  63  miles  S.  At  Menteith  Junction  it  connects  with  the  Souris 
branch,  that  runs  S.  W.  133  miles  through  the  fertile  district  of  the 
Souris  River,  which  also  yields  much  coal,  to  Estevan,  on  the  Soo- 
Pacific  line,  connecting  the  Canadian  northwest  with  the  Middle  and 
Northwestern  States  of  the  Union.    It  is  also  the  western  terminus  of 


AfifllNIBOIA. 


279 


f  trees  to 
c  railway 
nrt'iik  flat- 
en  Winni- 
riiis  place 
It  is  the 
principal 
and  grain 
ere.  The 
forktown, 
0  Russell. 

0  Portage 

and  small 
»ndy  slope 
ing  a  fine 
tre  of  the 

1  the  route 
hwest  are 
at  North- 
n,  is  open 
isiniboine 
Brandon 

town  is 
t  be  said 
ilanitoba, 
nt  paved 
ting  mar- 
largest 
lere  is  an 
officials, 
le,  which 
oint  it  is 

open  to 
le  Souris 
it  of  the 
the  Soo- 
Idle  and 
minus  of 


the  Manitoba  Division  of  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  Beyond  Brandon 
the  railway  leaves  the  Assiniboine  River,  and  risen  from  its  valley  to  an 
undulating  prairie  that  is  well  occupied  with  prosperous  farmers,  as 
shown  by  the  thriving  villages  that  appear  at  frequent  intervals.  At 
Kemnatf  (1,565  miles)  the  Souris  branch  diverges  to  the  S.,  and  Virden 
(1,604  miles)  is  the  market  town  of  a  district  of  rich  farms.  Elkhorn 
(1,621  miles)  is  likewise  a  prairie  town  surnn -i-led  by  farms. 

Assiniboi. 

This  district  lies  directly  W.  of  Mani  It  is  bounded  on  the 

N.  by  Saskatchewan,  on  the  E.  by  Manitoba,  on  the  S.  by  North 
Dakota  and  Montana,  and  on  the  W.  by  Alberta.  It  has  an  area  of 
106,100  square  miles,  and,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  had  a  popu- 
lation of  25,278  inhabitants.  The  surface  is  rolling,  dotted  over  with 
clumps  of  trees,  usually  found  bordering  the  shores  of  lakes  and 
meadows.  The  district  is  divided  into  two  great  areas,  Eastern  Assini- 
boia  and  Western  Assiniboia.  Each  of  these  divisions  has  its  own 
peculiar  cliaracteristics,  the  eastern  portion  being  essentially  a  wheat- 
growing  country,  and  the  western  better  fitted  for  mixed  farming  and 
ranching.  In  Eastern  Assiniboia,  the  great  plain  lying  S.  of  the  Qu'Ap- 
pelle  River  and  stretching  S.  to  the  international  boundary  is  considered 
to  have  the  largest  acreage  of  wheat  land  possessing  a  uniform  char- 
acter of  soil  foimd  in  any  one  tract  of  fertile  prairie  land  in  the 
N.  W.  The  eastern  part  of  the  district  is  known  as  the  Park  Country 
of  the  Canadian  N.  W.  The  Qu'Appelle  district  contains  a  large  tract 
of  excellent  farming  country,  watered  by  the  Qu'Appelle  River  and  the 
Fishing  Lakes.  The  soil  is  a  black  loam  with  clay  subsoil.  The  water 
of  the  lakes  and  rivers  is  excellent,  and  stocked  with  fish.  It  is  a  coun- 
try renowned  for  wild  fowl  and  other  game.  Western  Assiniboia  ex- 
tends to  Kininvie,  about  40  miles  W.  of  Medicine  Hat.  At  present  it 
is  more  occupied  by  ranchers  raising  cattle  and  sheep  than  by  farmers. 
It  is  everywhere  thickly  covered  with  a  good  growth  of  nutritious  grasses 
(chiefly  the  short,  crisp  variety  known  as  "  buffalo  grass  "),  which  be- 
cctoes  to  all  appearance  dry  about  midsummer,  but  is  still  green  and 
growing  at  the  roots,  and  forms  excellent  pasture  both  in  winter  and 
summer.  A  heavy  growth  of  grass  suitable  for  hay  is  found  in  m^ny 
of  the  river  bottoms  and  surrounding  the  numerous  lakes  and  sloughs. 
The  supply  of  timber  on  the  hills  is  considerable.     There  is  also  an 


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280 


ASSINIBOIA. 


abundance  of  fuel  of  a  different  kind  in  the  coal  seams  that  are  ex- 
posed in  many  of  the  valleys.  The  C.  ?.  R.  traverses  the  central  por- 
tion of  Assiniboia  from  E.  to  W.     Regina  is  the  seat  of  government. 

The  district  of  Assiniboia y  the  first  of  the  Northwest  Terri- 
tories, is  entered  a  mile  this  side  of  Fleming  (1,636  miles).  Soon 
Mooaomin  (1,643  miles)  is  reached,  and  stages  run  twice  a  week 
from  here  N.  to  Fort  EUice,  and  weekly  to  the  fertile  Mouse  Moun- 
tain district  on  the  S.  Small  stations  are  passed  at  regular  inter- 
vals, but  they  call  for  no  special  comment,  although  at  nearly  all 
of  them  the  sportsman  will  find  excellent  opportunities  for  shooting 
— waterfowl  and  prairie  chicken  being  especially  abundant.  Broad- 
view (1,688  miles)  is  a  divisional  point,  with  restaurant  at  the  sta- 
tion. It  is  at  the  head  of  Weed  Lake,  and  is  an  important  trading 
town.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  reservation  of  the  Oree  Indians,  and  it  is  a 
common  sight  to  see  some  of  the  braves  and  their  squaws  selling 
curios  at  the  station.  Our  course  follows  a  gradually  rising  prairie,  and 
but  few  farms  are  to  be  *en.  Settlers  for  the  most  part,  in  this  vicinity, 
have  shown  a  preference  for  the  line  of  the  Qu'Appelle  River,  which 
is  some  10  miles  to  the  N.  Pheasant  Hills,  to  the  N.  of  the  river,  is 
noted  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil.  Near  Indian  Head  {1,^88  miles)  we 
approach  the  Government  Farm,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  railway,  while 
on  the  opposite  side  are  the  Canadian  Alliance  Farm  and  the  Sunbeam 
Farm,  both  of  which  are  portions  of  Lord  Brassey's  colony. 

Qu'Appelle  (1,748  miles)  is  the  supplying  and  shipping  point  for 
a  large  section.  It  has  a  population  of  about  1,000  persons.  A  good 
road  extends  northward  to  Fort  Qu'Appelle  and  the  Touchwood  Hills, 
over  which  a  stage  runs  daily  to  the  Fort,  which  is  20  miles  distant.  It 
is  an  old  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Fishing  Lakes  in  the  deep  valley  of  the  Qu'Appelle  River,  where  not 
only  is  good  fishing  to  be  had  but  also  excellent  shooting.  There  are 
several  Indian  reservations  in  its  vicinity,  and  an  Indian  mission  and 
school  that  was  established  in  the  Fifties  by  the  Jesuits. 

The  country  is  wooded  beyond  Qu'Appelle,  but  at  McLean  (1,756 
miles)  the  great  Regina  plain  is  entered.  This  is  a  broad  treeless  expanse 
of  the  finest  agricultural  land  that  extends  westward  to  the  Dirt  Hills, 
which  are  the  northward  extension  of  the  Missouri  Coteau,  and  lie 
to  the  S.  W.  The  next  station  is  Balgonie  (1,765  miles),  near  where 
is  a  farm  of  the  Canadian  Land  and  Ranch  Company,  a  corporation 
chiefly  devoted  to  grain  and  stock-raising.     Pilot  Butte  (1,772  miles), 


I 


REGINA  TO   PRINCE   ALBERT. 


281 


that  takes  its  name  from  a  rounded  hill  in  the  vicinity,  is  soon  passed, 
and  Regina  (1,781  miles)  {Windsor),  the  capital  of  Assiniboia,  and  of 
the  Northwest  Territories,  is  reached.  This  important  distributing 
point  has  a  population  of  2,600.  It  is  the  meeting-place  of  the  Execu- 
tive Council  of  the  Northwest  Territories,  including  Assiniboia,  Al- 
berta, Saskatchewan,  and  Athabasca,  and  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Lieu- 
tenant-Governor, whose  residence  is  here,  extends  over  all  these  dis- 
tricts. It  is  also  the  headquarters  of  the  Northwest  Mounted  Police,  a 
body  of  800  picked  men,  that  form  the  frontier  army  of  the  Dominion. 
They  are  stationed  at  intervals  over  the  N.  W.  and  in  the  Yukon  to 
look  after  the  Indians  and  preserve  order  generally. 


Regina  to  Prince  Albert. 

The  construction  of  important  branches  is  a  conspicuous  evidence 
of  the  enterprise  of  the  C.  P.  R.  and  the  line  that  was  completed  in 
1893,  for  the  purpose  of  opening  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Saskatche- 
wan is  an  excellent  illustration  of  that  fact.  When  valuable  farm 
lands  are  made  accessible,  immigration  soon  follows,  and  market  cen- 
tres develop  into  towns  and  junctions  become  capitals.  The  Prince 
Albert  Branch  of  the  C.  P.  R.  extends  from  Regina  N.  for  a  dis- 
tance of  260  miles  to  Prince  Albert  in  the  territory  of  Saskatchewan, 
It  runs  in  a  northwesterly  direction  through  a  (as  yet)  thinly  popu- 
lated region,  passing  at  first  down  the  vall§y  of  the  Wascana  Greek, 
and  crossing  the  Qu'Appelle  River  at  Lumsden  (20  miles).  The  route 
continues  through  a  bushy  country  for  nearly  160  miles,  where  free  lands 
are  steadily  attracting  immigrants  anxious  to  secure  farms.  The  coun- 
try is  well  adapted  for  stock-raising  on  a  moderate  scale,  ^^uch  as 
would  be  suitable  for  mixed  farming.  The  climate  is  healthy,  and  an 
average  summer  temperature  of  about  60°  is  recorded.  The  stations, 
none  of  which  have  as  yet  acquired  any  importance,  are  passed  at  inter- 
vals of  about  ten  miles.  Between  Dtinduiti  (ISV  miles)  and  Orindlay 
(163  miles)  the  frontier  line  between  Assiniboia  and  Saskatchewan  is 
passed.  At  8a.skatoon  (160  miles)  the  South  Saskatchewan  River  is 
crossed.  This  place  is  a  divisional  point,  with  restaurants.  It  was 
formerly  a  police  post.  The  route  now  turns  N.  E.  and  follows  the 
fertile  valley  between  South  Saskatchewan  on  the  E.  and  the  North 
Saskatchewan  on  the  W.  Duck  l/ike  (212  miles)  is  the  most  impor- 
tant of  the  few  stations  that  are  passed  before  Prince  Albert  is  reached, 


282 


SAWKATC^IIKWAN. 


Here  occurred  the  eulniination  of  the  Kiel  Uehellion  that  took  place 
in  1885.  This  place  is  a  small  farminj;  town  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
North  Saskatchewan  Kiver,  about  80  miles  to  the  W.  of  the  junction  ' 
of  the  N.  and  S.  branches  of  the  river.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  the 
Territory  and  the  centre  of  quite  a  large  farminji;  district.  It  was 
throughout  this  district  that  in  1884-'85  a  few  dissatisfied  French 
metis  or  half-breeds  invited  Louis  Kiel,  the  leader  of  the  Ked  River 
Rebellion  in  1869  (then  living  in  Montana),  to  aid  them  in  a  constitu- 
tional agitation  for  their  rights.  He  established  his  headipuirters  in 
Duck  Lake,  and  in  March  set  up  a  provisional  government.  A  body  of 
militia  under  (ieneral  Middleton  was  sent  to  subdue  them,  but  owing 
to  the  difficulties  in  transportation  did  not  reach  the  point  of  action  until 
early  in  April.  Several  engagements  took  place,  and  tinally  in  Harouche, 
not  far  from  Duck  Lake,  on  May  Otli,  the  decisive  encounter  occurred 
and  Riel  surrendered.  He  was  taken  to  Regina,  where  he  was  hanged, 
eight  of  his  Indian  followers  meeting  a  similar  fate  at  Hattleford. 
i 

Saskatchewan. 

This  division  of  Western  Canada  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  North- 
west Territory  and  Keewatin,  u\\  the  E.  by  Keewatin  and  Manitoba,  on 
the  S,  by  Assiniboi.i,  and  the  VV.  by  Alberta.  It  has  an  area  of  107,- 
092  square  miles,  and,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  had  a  popula- 
tion of  11,14('»  inhabitants.  The  climate  is  healthy,  being  both  bracing 
and  salubrious.  The  average  summer  temperature  is  about  (50°  F.  The 
reason  of  the  equability  of  the  temperature  in  summer  has  not  yet  been 
thoroughly  investigated,  but  the  water  stretches  may  be  found  to  ac- 
count for  it.  The  district  is  almost  centrally  divided  by  the  main  Sas- 
katchewan River,  which  is  altogether  within  its  boundary,  and  by  its 
principal  branch,  the  North  Saskatchewan,  niO'i<  of  whose  navigable 
length  lies  within  the  district.      There  are  sive  grazing  plains 

through  which  the  railway  passes  in  the  soi.„i.jrn  portion,  but  the 
greater  part  of  it  is  rolling  prairie  diversified  by  wood  and  lake.  In 
these  parts,  whidi  are  well  adapted  foi-  mixed  farming,  the  soil  is  gen- 
era',ly  a  rich  loam  with  clay  subsoil,  in  which  grass  grows  luxuriantly 
ard  grain  ripens  well.  The  crops  consist  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and 
potatoes.  Turnips  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  are  raised  successfully. 
The  country  is  well  adapted  for  stock-raising  on  a  moderate  scale,  such 
as  would  be  suitable  for  mixed  farming,  and  any  portion  of  the  district 


RKOINA   TO    (1ALOARY. 


283 


and 


will  answer  all  the  requirements  for  dairy  farming.  The  sportsman 
will  find  an  abundance  of  wild  f^ame,  whether  of  fin,  feathers,  or  furs, 
sufficient  in  variety  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious.  At  present,  settle- 
ment is  chiefly  confined  to  the  Prince  Albert  and  Hattleford  districts. 
Prince  Albert  is  the  N.  termimis  of  a  branch  of  the  C  P.  K.,  and  the 
N.  E.  corner  of  the  district  has  water  connection  by  the  Saskatchewan 
River  and  Lake  Winnipej^,  with  Winnipej?.  Prince  Albert  (1,000)  is 
the  chief  town. 

Regina  to  Calgary. 

We  again  resume  our  route  westward.  After  leaving  Regina  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  is  i)assed  on  the  right,  and  soon  after 
the  headquarters  of  the  Mounted  Police.  The  barracks,  officers'  quar- 
ters, offices,  storehouses,  and  the  imposing  drill-hall  together  constitute 
quite  a  village.  Large  wheat  fields  on  either  side  testify  to  the  rich- 
ness of  the  soil.  At  Pnnqua  (1,814  miles)  a  branch  line  of  theC.  P.  R. 
extends  S.  E.  through  Estevan  to  the  international  boundary  line  at 
Portal,  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Soo  line  for  Sault  Ste.  Marie 
by  way  of  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis.  Moose  Jaw  (1,822  miles)  is  a  divi- 
sional point,  with  a  restaurant  in  the  station.  Its  name  is  an  abridg- 
ment of  the  Indian  name  which,  on  being  literally  translated,  signi- 
fies "  The-creek-whei-e-the-vhite-man-mended-the-cart-with-a-moose-jaw- 
bone."  We  have  been  slowly  but  steadily  climbing  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  Missouri  Coteau,  and  the  road  winds  through  an  irregular  depres- 
sion to  the  basin  of  the  Old  Wives'  Lakes — two  extensive  bodies  of 
water  that  have  no  outlet  and  are  consequently  alkaline.  The  most 
northerly  and  westerly  of  these  lakes  is  reached  at  CVtffl/>/m  (1,876  miles). 

The  country  is  treeless  from  the  eastern  border  of  the  Regina  plain 
to  the  Cypress  Hills  (200  miles)  but  the  soil  is  excellent  nearly  every- 
where. The  prairies  about  and  beyond  Old  Wives'  Lakes  are  marked 
in  all  directions  by  old  buffalo  trails,  and  scarred  and  pitted  by  their 
"  wallows."  Antelope  may  now  be  frequently  seen,  and  coyotes  and 
prairie  dogs.  Near  Morse  (1,80(5  miles)  is  a  salt  lake,  and  not  far  be- 
yond is  Rush  Lake,  a  large  area  of  fresh  water  and  a  favourite  resort  of 
waterfowl — swans,  geese,  ducks,  and  pelicans — which  at  times  congre- 
gate here  in  myriads.  At  Rush  TAike  (1,913  miles),  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  line,  is  another  of  the  Canadian  Land  and  Ranch  Company's  farms. 
There  are  a  number  of  these  in  various  districts,  aggregating  about  110,- 
000  acres.     Each  contains  an  area  of  10,000  acres. 


284 


RKGINA   TO   CALGARY. 


Swift  Currevt  (1,9!{5  iiiilcH),  on  a  prottv  stream  of  the  Hame  name,  is 
a  divisio'ial  point,  with  restaurant.     The  little  town  is  sustained  by  the 
numerous  cattle  ranches  in  the  vicinity.     The  principal  sheep  farm  of 
the  Canadian  Land  and  lianch  Company  is  here,  and  a  large  crop  of 
wool  is  shipped  eastward  each  year.    The  well-appointed  farm  buildings, 
including  a  large  creamery,  are  on  the  hills  directly  S.  of  the  station. 
Near  by  is  the  Government  Meteorological  Station.     From  here  onward 
the  line  skirts  the  northern  base  of  the  Cypress  Hills,  which  gradually  rise 
towards  the  W.  until  they  reach  an  altitude  of  ;{,800  ft.,  and  in  many 
places  are  covered  with  valuable  timber.     At  Crane  Lake  (2,000  mile.s) 
another  of  the  Canadian  Land  and  Ranch  Company's  farms  is  located, 
but  is  entirely  applied  to  stock-raising.     There  are  large  cattle-yards  at 
Maple  Creek  (2,021  miles),  and  near  the  town  is  a  station  of  the  Mount- 
ed Police.     There  is  still  another  farm  at  Khieorth  (2,030  miles).     The 
C.  P.  R.  have  an  experimental  farm  at  Forres  (2,040  miles).   The  satis- 
factory results  obtained  from  working  this  and  similar  farms  estab- 
lished at  different  points  on  the  line  have  proved  the  value  of  the  land 
for  farming.     This  section  has  been  found  to  be  specially  suited  to 
stock-raising.     It  is  rich  in  the  grasses  that  possess  peculiar  attractions 
for  horses  and  cattle,  while  the  valleys  and  groves  of  timber  afford 
shelter  during  all  seasons  of  the  year.     Finally,  the  many  streams  flow- 
ing out  of  the  Cypress  Hills  yield  an  excellent  supply  of  water.     From 
Forres  to  Dunmore  rocks  of  the  Cretaceous  age  are  abundant,  in  which 
the  remains  of  the  gigantic  carnivorous  and  other  animals  now  extinct 
are  found.     At  Dunmore  (2,0'7'7  miles)  there  is  still  another  of  the  Ca- 
nadian Land  and  Ranch  Company's  farms,  and  it  is  of  a  mixed  charac- 
ter, for  not  only  are  capital  crops  raised  but  valuable  horses  and  cattle 
are  bred  here.     A  branch  of  the  C.  P.  R.  extends  in  a  westerly  direction 
for  107  miles  to  Letfibridffe,  a  lively  town  of  nearly  2,500  inhabitants  in 
the  center  of  an  important  coal  region,  and  is  the  chief  source  of  supply 
for  the  country  E.  to  and  beyond  Winnipeg,  and  is  being  continued  by 
the  Crow's  Nest  Pass  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  thi-ough  the  new  mining 
regions  of  East  Kootenay  to  the  gold  mines  of  West  Kootenay.     The 
Great  Falls  and  Canada  Ry.  extends  S.  from  Lethbridge  to  Coiitis  on 
the  frontier  and  thence  into  Montana,  intersecting  the  Gi-eat  Northern 
R.  R.  at  Shelby  Junction,  and  finally  reaching  the  southern  terminus  in 
Great  Falls,  200  miles  from  Lethbridge. 

From  Dunmore  the  train  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  South  Sas- 
katchewan, which  it  crosses  by  a  fine  steel  bridge  1,010  ft.  long  at 


•l 


ALBERTA. 


286 


Sas- 
ig  at 


Medicine  Hat  (2,084  miles),  a  growing  divisional  station,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  HOineihing  ovc.  1,000  inhubitants.  The  train  Btops  for  30  min- 
utes. The  repair  shops  of  the  railroad  are  here.  Indians  selling  curi- 
osities are  seen  around  the  station,  and  the  Mounted  Police  have  a 
post  here.  There  are  deposits  of  soft  coal  (lignite)  in  the  vicinity, 
and  the  river  is  navigable  at  this  point ;  indeed,  small  steamers  have  de- 
scended the  river  to  Lulie  Winnipeg,  800  miles  to  the  E.  Beyond  "  the 
Ilat "  the  railway  ascends  to  the  high  praiiie  plateau,  which  extends, 
gradually  rising,  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.  At  Stair  (2,01>2  mdes) 
the  route  reaches  the  first  of  the  Canadian  Laud  and  Ranch  Company's 
farms  W.  of  the  Saskatchewan.  The  train  then  follows  a  strong  up- 
grade to  Bowell  (2,099  miles),  after  which  it  makes  a  descent  to  Snf- 
field  (2,1 11  milesj,  and  then  steadily  ascends  again.  Across  the  prairie  to 
the  S.  occasional  glimpses  of  the  Bow  River  may  be  seen.  In  the 
early  summer  the  prairie  may  be  compared  to  a  billowy  ocean  of  grass, 
with  cattle  ranches  spread  over  it,  and  farms,  like  islands,  appearing  at 
intervals.  Coal  beds  lie  under  the  surface,  and  natural  gas  is  found  by 
boring  deep  wells.  At  Latujcviu  (2,119  miles)  the  gas  is  used  for 
pumping  water  into  the  tanks  for  the  railway  supply.  From  this  station, 
on  a  clear  day,  the  higher  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  still  150 
miles  to  the  westwai-d,  may  be  seen  with  the  naked  eye.  A  short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  station  we  leave  the  great  Territory  of  Assiniboia  and 
enter  Alberta. 

Alberta. 

This  district  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Athabasca,  on  the  E.  by  Sas- 
katchewan and  Manitoba,  on  the  S.  by  Montana,  and  on  the  W.  by  Brit- 
ish Columbia.  It  has  an  area  of  106,100  sciuare  miles,  and  a  population 
of  25,278  inhabitants,  according  to  the  census  of  1891.  Alberta  is  de- 
scribed as  having  three  distinct  surface  features — namely,  prairie  lands 
on  the  E.,  which  are  thickly  timbered  in  the  northern  part ;  then  come 
the  rolling  land  or  foothills,  extending  some  40  miles  from  the  base  of 
the  mountains,  mostly  heavily  timbered ;  and  lastly  the  mountains,  con- 
taining quantities  of  gold  and  other  ores.  The  climate  of  Northern  Al- 
berta is  like  that  of  Manitoba,  though  not  so  cold  in  winter,  and  the  win- 
ter is  shorter.  The  Chinook  wind  reaches  the  Edmonton  country  to  some 
extent  and  tempers  the  climate.  In  southern  Alberta  the  action  of  the 
Chinook  winds  is  more  direct  and  stronger  than  in  the  N.,  with  the  re- 
sult that  the  snowfall  is  much  lighter  and  does  not  remain  on  the 


I 


286 


ALBERTA. 


ground  for  any  length  of  time.     Northern  Alberta  embraces  the  fertile 
tract  of  country  watered  by  the  Red  Deer,  the  Battle,  the  North  Sas- 
katchewan, and  Htut-gcon  Kivers.     It  in  a  country  pre-eminently  suited 
to  mixed  farming.     It  is  well  wooded  and  watered,  and  abounds  with 
natural  hay  meadows.     As  regards  water,  there  are  magniticent  water 
courses,  innumerable  lakes,  mountain  streams,  and  creeks  and  springs. 
This  district  contains  millions  of  acres  of  deep,  rich  soil,  and  possesses 
beyond  dispute  some  of  the  best  farming  country  in  the  Dominion. 
Southern  Alberta  stands  foremost  among  the  cattle  countries  of  the 
world,  and  the  unknown  land  of  a  few  years  ago  is  looked  to  as  one  of 
the  greatest  future  sources  of  supply  of  the  British  markets,  as  it  has 
already  become  for  the  mining  regions  further  west.     Great  herds  of 
range  cattle  roam  at  will  over  these  seemingly  boundless  pastures. 
There  are  on  the  ranges  of  Alberta  hundreds  of  herds  of  fat  cattle, 
which  at  any  season  are  neither  fed  nor  sheltered ;  cattle,  too,  which  in 
point  of  breeding,  size,  and  general  condition  are  equal  to  any  range 
cattle  in  the  world.     That  Alberta  possesses  untold  wealth  in  her  im- 
mense mineral  deposits  is  no  longer  a  matter  of  doubt.    For  years  gold 
in  paying  quantities  has  been  found  on  the  banks  and  bars  of  the  North 
Saskatchewan  River.     Deposits  of  galtna  have  been  located  which  are 
said  to  contain  a  large  percentage  of  silver.    Copper  and  iron  ore  have 
been  discovered  in  various  parts  of  Alberta.    A  valuable  seam  of  hema- 
tite iron  exists  at  the  base  of  Storm  Mountain,  and  other  seams  are 
known  to  exist  in  Macleod  District  in  the  vicinity  of  Crow's  Nest  Pass. 
As  to  the  quantity  of  the  coal  deposits  of  Alberta  it  is  impossible  to 
form  any  estimate.    The  coal  mines  already  discovered  are  of  sufficient 
extent  to  supply  Canada  with  fuel  for  centuries.     At  Lethbridge  over  a 
million  dollars  have  been  expended  in  developing  the  coal  mines.    At 
Anthracite  large  sums  have  been  spent  in  opening  up  the  hard  coal 
deposits  of  that  vicinity.     Coal  has  also  been  discovered  at  Edmonton, 
anthracite  near  Canmore,  and  vast  bituminous  deposits  in  Crow's  Nest 
Pass,  in  the  southern  district.    Soft  coal  is  so  plentiful  that  the  certainty 
of  a  cheap  fuel  supply  is  assured  to  Albertans  for  countless  generations. 
Soon  after  leaving  Bassano  (2,182  miles)  we  reach  the  large  reser- 
vation of  the  Blackfoot  Indians,  some  of  whom  are  likely  to  be  seen 
about  the  stations.    The  reservation  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  railway,  and 
the  first  station  that  is  on  its  boundary  is  Crowfoot  (2,190  miles), 
named  in  honour  of  a  famous  Blackfoot  chief.     Here  the  Bow  River 
comes  close  to  the  railway  as  it  follows  its  course  through  the  reser- 


ALBERTA. 


287 


vatton,  which  we  leave  soon  after  Nnmaka  (2,218  miles)  ia  passed. 
Meanwhile  at  (Jkichen  (2,209  miles),  a  railway  divisional  point,  the 
mountains  come  in  full  view — a  magnificent  line  of  snowy  peaks  ex- 
tending far  along  the  southern  and  western  horizons.  At  Langdon 
(2,244  miles)  the  railway  turns  into  the  valley  of  the  Bow  River,  and  a 
few  miles  beyond  Shcpnrd  (2,254  miles)  the  river  is  crossed  by  an  iron 
bridge  and  the  foothills  are  reached.  C'«r/^'«7/ (2,2r)4  m\\c9>)  {Alberta 
Hotel)  is  charmingly  situated  at  an  altitude  of  3,H88  ft.,  on  a  hillside 
plateau  at  the  junction  of  the  Bow  and  Elberon  Rivers  overlooked  by 
the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  It  is  the  most  im- 
portant place  between  Brandon  and  Vancouver,  and  has  a  population 
of  nearly  4,000  inhabitants.  Already  it  has  been  nuide  a  city,  and  its 
business  portion  is  compactly  and  handsomely  built  up.  The  banks 
are  rich  and  the  business  interests  are  large.  Fine  churches,  ample 
schoolhouses,  and  well-constructed  residences  make  Calgary  more  of  a 
city  of  homes  than  a  mere  frontier  business  place.  It  has  a  history 
too,  for  it  is  believed  to  be  the  place  where,  in  1752,  Niowville  estab- 
lished Fort  Jonqui^re.  There  "  the  old  Bow  Fort "  was  built  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  early  in  the  century,  and  more  recently  the  Hudson 
Bay  Co.  erected  a  little  trading  house.  Last  of  all  came  the  barracks 
of  the  Mounted  Police,  to  which  the  name  of  Fort  Calgary  was  given. 
The  Hudson  Bay  Co.  and  the  Mounted  Police  still  have  their  stations 
here.  Calgary  is  the  center  of  the  trade  of  the  great  ranching  coun- 
try, and  it  is  the  chief  source  of  supply  for  the  mining  districts  in  the 
mountains  beyond.  Lumber  is  made  from  the  logs  that  are  floated 
down  the  Bow  River,  and  much  of  the  light-gray  building  stone  <tiat 
is  used  in  the  city  conies  from  the  immediate  vicinity.  It  is  aho  a 
railway  center.  Besides  the  main  line  of  the  C.  P.  R.,  branch  lines  of 
that  company  run  105  miles  S.  to  Macleod  on  the  Crow's  Nest  Ry., 
passing  through  a  rich  ranching  and  farming  country  191  miles  N.  to 
Edmoidon,  in  the  valley  of  the  North  Saskatchewan  River.  It  is  the. 
market  town  for  the  farmers,  traders,  miners,  etc.,  in  North  Alberta. 
The  town  is  well  laid  out,  and  on  a  bluff  above  it  is  the  fort  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Co.  There  is  a  wagon  road  running  96  miles  N.  to  Atlta- 
basca  Landing,  a  store  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  on  the  Athabasca  River, 
from  where,  by  means  of  the  flat-bottomed  river  steamers  of  the  com- 
pany, a  trip  can  be  made  down  the  river  to  Athabasca  Lake,  thence  by 
the  Great  Slave  River,  its  outlet,  to  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  and 
thence  by  the  Mackenzie  River,  its  outlet,  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  or  by 


288 


CAUJARY  TO    I)<)NAM>. 


thu  I'oiTiipiiio  tv  the  Viikoii  p>lil  IIcIiIh.  Kdinontoii  is  tlio  most  north- 
LM'ly  railway  station  on  tlie  I'ontiiiciit  Hn<l  is  the  starting  point  for  vari- 
ouH  inland  rontes  to  the  Klondike. 


Calgary  to  Donald. 

The  ascent  of  the  Hoekies  hefiins  at  tniee  after  leavinf^  ('alpn-y. 
For  a  Hhort  <listanee  we  follow  the  S.  hank  of  the  How  and  eioss  it  at 
Keith  (2,27J<  miles).  Lar^je  eattle  ranehes  are  passed,  and  sometimes  we 
may  see  great  herds  of  horses  in  the  lower  valleys,  thousands  of  eattio 
on  the  terraees,  and  lloeks  of  sheep  on  the  hillto|)s  all  at  onee.  Soon 
Cochrane  (2,2H7  miles)  is  reached,  and  we  are  well  within  the  rounded 
grassy  foothills  and  "  view  Iteiielies"  or  terraees.  Fre(pmnt  saw-mills 
are  seen  in  the  valley,  and  here  and  there  a  eoal  mine.  Hetween  (Coch- 
rane and  Jimfiior  (2,2'.>7  mih's)  we  again  ci'oss  the  river,  and  still  rising, 
reach  Morh'i/  (2,;j<Ki  miles),  and  an  altitude  of  I,(«h>  ft.  Then,  to  (piote 
Lady  Macdonald,  "  the  wide  valleys  change  into  broken  ravines,  and 
lo!  through  an  opening  in  the  mist,  nuide  rosy  with  early  suidight,  we 
see,  far  away  in  the  sky,  its  <lelicat(!  peai'ly  tip  clear  against  the  blue, 
a  single  snow  peak  of  the  Hoeky  Mountains  ;  .  .  .  hut  as  we  look,  gau/y 
mist  passes  over,  and  it  has  vanished."  .lust  before  reaching  the  Knun- 
nnxkis  (2,318  miles)  we  cross  the  river  of  the  same  name,  not  far  from 
its  continence  with  the  How,  «)n  a  high  iron  bridge,  and  nearly  over  the 
Kananaskis  Falls,  40  ft.  high,  which  caimot  be  seen  from  the  train, 
although  the  roar  of  the  falling  water  is  distinctly  heard.  So(m  after 
leaving  the  station  a  bend  in  the  line  brings  the  train  between  two 
ahuost  vertical  walls  of  diz/y  height,  and  we  enter  the  How  River 
Gap,  as  the  gateway  by  which  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  entered  is 
called.  On  the  right  are  the  fantastically  broken  and  castellated 
heights  of  the  Fairholme  Moinitains  that  cuhnimite  in  Grotto  Mountain, 
8,840  ft.  high,  while  to  the  left  are  the  massive  snow-laden  pi'omon- 
tories  of  the  Kananaskis  range,  of  which  I'igeon  ^lountain  (7,815  ft.)  is 
the  most  conspicuous,  (/hj)  Station  (2,!{2<i  ndles,  altitude  4,200  ft.)  is  at 
the  east  end,  from  wliere  we  obtain  a  superb  view  to  the  left  of  Wind 
Mountains  (10,400  ft.),  and  the  gioup  called  Three  Sisters  (9,705  ft.).  On 
leaving  the  Gap  the  train  turns  noithward  up  the  valley  to  the  Bow 
and  soon  reaches  the  divisional  station  of  (Jutimore  (2,331  miles,  alti- 
tude 4,230  ft.),  where  an  observation  car,  specially  designed  to  allow  an 
unbroken  view  of  the  wonderful  mountain  scenery,  is  attached  to  the 


s 

I. 


'I' 


5 


THE  ROCKY    MOUNTAIN    PARK   OF  CANADA.         289 

train  during  tlio  hcuboh  from  May  1  toOLt()l)cr  15.  From  the  etation  a 
8tril(iug  profile  of  tlie  Tlueo  Sisters  \n  ol)taiiK'(i,  witli  Wind  and  Pigeon 
MountainH  looming  up  l)eyond.  On  a  lilll  beliind  Htandd  a  group  of 
isolated  and  curiously  weathered  conglomerate  monuments.  On  either 
side  of  the  beautiful  level  valley  the  mountains  rise  m  Holid  niaHHCS 
westward,  until  the  great  bulk  of  Cascade  Mountain  closes  the  view. 
Good  tishing  and  shooting  are  obtained  in  this  vicinity.  The  Jlocky 
Mountain  Park  is  entered  5  miles  beyond  Canmore. 


The  Rooky  Mountain  Park  of  Canada. 

This  rectangular  tract  of  land,  2(i  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide,  is 
in  western  Alberta.  It  was  set  apart  by  the  Dominion  of  Canada  as  a 
national  reservation  and  pleasure  resort.  It  Includes  the  beautiful 
Devil's  Lake  and  parts  of  the  valleys  of  the  Bow,  Spray,  and  Cascade 
Rivers.  No  part  of  the  Rockies  exhibits  a  greater  variety  of  sublime 
and  pleasing  scenery ;  and  nowhere  are  good  points  of  view  and  fea- 
tures of  special  interest  so  accessible,  since  many  excellent  roads  and 
bridle-paths  have  been  made.  Boating  may  be  indulged  in  on  the  Bow 
River  and  on  the  lake,  in  whose  waters  excellent  fishing  is  to  be  had. 
No  shooting  is  allowed  within  the  Park  limits,  but  Banff  is  an  excellent 
starting-point  for  those  seeking  the  pursuit  of  bear,  elk,  caril)ou,  and 
other  big  game  that  abounds  in  the  vicinity,  to  say  nothing  of  the  big- 
horn sheep.  Permits  for  camping  may  be  obtained  from  the  superin- 
tendent, who  resides  in  the  village  of  Banff. 

As  we  enter  the  park.  Mount  Pecchee  (9,580  ft.)  rises  to  the  right  di- 
rectly in  front  of  us.  Seemingly  blocking  further  progress  is  Cascade 
Mountain  (9,796  ft),  whose  "  perpondiculnr,  massive  precipice  front, 
sheathed  with  a  thousand  colors  which  glow  in  the  sunshine,"  is  marked 
by  a  slender  waterfall  trailing  almost  from  brow  to  base.  The  valley  nar- 
rows, and  the  river  is  crossed  twice  before  Duthil  (2,389  miles,  altitude 
4,275  ft.)  is  reached.  Still  higher  we  go,  following  a  defile  of  the  Cas- 
cade River,  and  on  a  widening  of  the  valley  is  Anthracite  (2,341  miles, 
altitude  4,350  ft.).  Here  are  coal  mines  where  true  anthracite  of  an 
excellent  quality  is  found,  and  the  output  is  sent  as  far  E.  as  Winnipeg. 
Soon  the  Cascade  River  leads  to  the  right  and  opens  westward  past  the 
base  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  while  to  the  left  the  Bow  River  bends 
sharply  towards  the  S.  W.  through  a  wide  break  that  separates  the 
Rundle  Cascade  line  of  peaks.  In  the  triangular  space  thus  formed  is 
10 


290    THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  PARK  OF  CANADA. 

5an^  (2,346  miles,  altitude  4,500  ft,),  the  station  for  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain  Park  and  the  Hot  Springs.  From  the  station  a  superb  view  of  the  , 
mountains  is  possible.  To  the  N.  is  Cascade  Mountain ;  to  the  E.  are 
Mount  Inglismaldie  (9,875  ft),  and  the  heights  of  the  Fairholme  sub- 
range, behind  which  lies  Devil's  Head  Lake.  Still  farther  to  thj  E.  the 
sharp  cone  of  Mount  Peechee  closes  the  view  in  that  direction.  To  the 
left  of  Cascade  Mountain  and  just  N.  of  the  track  rises  the  wooded 
ridge  of  Squaw  Mountain  (6,130  ft.),  beneath  which  are  the  Vermilion 
Lakes.  To  the  W.  and  up  the  valley  are  the  distant  snowy  peaks  of 
the  main  range  about  Simpson's  Pass,  chief  of  which  is  the  square, 
wall-like  crest  of  Mount  Massive.  A  little  nearer  on  the  left  is  the 
northern  end  of  the  Bourgeau  Range,  and  still  nearer  the  Sulphur  Moun- 
tain, along  the  base  of  which  are  the  springs.  The  isolated  bluff  to 
the  S.  is  Tunnel  Mountain  (5,610  ft.),  while  just  beyond  the  station 
Rundle  Peak  rises  abruptly,  and  so  near  at  hand  as  to  cut  off  all  view 
in  that  direction.  A  good  road  from  the  station  soon  brings  us  to  the 
steel  bridge  that  takes  the  carriage  road  over  the  Bow  and  we  reach 
the  Banff  Springs  Hotels  built  by  the  railway  company,  near  the  fine 
falls  in  the  Bow,  and  the  mouth  of  the  rapid  Spray  River.  This  hotel, 
with  every  modern  convenience  and  luxury,  including  baths  supplied 
from  the  hot  sulphur  springs,  is  kept  open  during  the  summer  months 
BretCs  Sanitarium  and  other  smaller  and  less  expensive  hotels  are 
in  the  little  village,  where  already  a  pretty  church,  a  museum,  where 
a  complete  collection  of  specimens  of  the  flora,  fauna,  mineralogy, 
etc.,  may  oe  seen,  and  a  schoolhouse  have  here  been  built.  It  has 
a  permanent  population  of  something  over  600  persons.  Banff  Hot 
Springs  is  most  favorably  placed  for  health,  picturesque  views,  and 
as  a  center  for  canoeing,  driving,  walking,  or  mountain  climbing. 
Large  trout  are  found  in  Devil's  Head  Lake,  and  deep  trolling  for 
these  affords  fine  sport.  Wild  sheep  (the  bighorn)  and  mountain 
goats  are  common  on  the  neighboring  heights.  The  springs  are  at 
different  elevations  upon  the  eastern  slope  of  Sulphur  Mountain,  the 
highest  being  700  feet  above  the  Bow.  All  are  reached  by  good 
roads  commanding  glorious  landscapes.  The  more  important  springs 
have  been  improved  by  the  Government,  and  picturesque  bathing 
houses  have  been  erected  and  placed  under  the  care  of  attendants.  In 
one  locality  is  a  pool  inside  a  dome-roofed  cave  ;  and,  near  by,  another 
spring  forms  an  open  basin  of  warm,  sulphurous  water.  Since  the 
opening  of  the  railway  these  springs  have  been  largely  visited,  and 


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THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAIN   PARK   OF   CANADA.      291 


testimony  to  their  wonderful  curative  properties  is  plentiful.  The 
character  of  the  water  is  said  to  be  similar  to  that  of  the  Hot  Springs 
in  Arkansas,  United  States.  There  are  numerous  excursions  to  be 
made  from  Banff,  among  which  the  ascent  of  the  mountains  in  the 
vicinity  is  worthy  of  mention.  Some  of  these  require  only  a  few  hours, 
while  others  are  a  matter  of  several  days.  Competent  guides  can  be 
procured  at  the  hotels,  and  fine  views  will  reward  those  who  indulge  in 
this  arduous  but  fascinating  pastime.  Near  the  railway  station  is  a 
large  corral  in  which  is  a  herd  of  buffalo,  containing  fine  specimens  of 
the  monarcbs  that  once  roamed  the  adjoining  plains  in  countless 
numbers.  On  resuming  the  railway  we  continue  along  the  N.  bank 
of  the  Bow,  winding  in  and  out  of  its  forested  valley.  The  view  to 
the  rear  as  we  leave  the  station  absorbs  our  attention,  but  some  new 
attraction  demands  recognition.  On  the  right  the  Vermilion  Lakes 
are  skirted,  and  in  front  of  us  Mount  Massive  and  the  snow-peaks 
to  the  crest,  inclosing  Simpson's  Pass,  confront  us.  A  sharp  turn 
to  the  right  and  the  great  heap  of  snowy  ledges  that  form  the  east- 
em  crest  of  Pilot  Mountain  (9,130  ft.)  come  in  view.  Then  Hole-in- 
the-Wall  Mountain  (7,500  ft.)  is  quickly  passed  on  the  right,  and  we 
reach  Cascade  (2,352  miles,  altitude  4,476  ft.).  A  little  beyond  the 
station  we  leave  the  park  at  its  western  corner,  and  Castle  Moun- 
tain (8,850  ft.)  comes  in  view  on  the  right — "  a  giant's  keep,  with  tur- 
rets, bastions,  and  battlements  complete."  Castle  Mountain  station 
(2,363  miles,  altitude  4,570  ft.)  is  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  which 
is  on  the  right.  Here  was  once  a  mining  camp,  called  Silver  City,  but 
now  there  are  more  dwellings  than  inhabitants.  The  mountains  on 
each  side  become  exceedingly  grand  and  prominent.  Those  on  the 
right  form  the  bare,  ragged,  and  sharply  serrated  Sawback  Range.  On 
the  left  the  lofty  Bow  Range  fronts  the  valley  in  a  series  of  magnifi- 
cent snow-laden  promontories.  At  first  only  glimpses  of  the  mountains 
can  be  seen  through  the  trees,  as  you  look  ahead,  but  soon  the  long 
array  of  peaks  come  in  view.  To  the  left  and  looking  back  the  central 
peak  of  Pilot  Mountain  is  seen,  like  a  looming  pyramid  high  above  the 
square-fronted  ledges  visible  before.  Next  to  it  is  the  less  lofty  but 
almost  equally  imposing  cone  of  Copper  Mountain  (8,500  ft.),  square 
ly  opposite  the  sombre  precipices  of  Castle  Mountain.  Beyond  Cop- 
per Mountain,  the  gap  of  Vermilion  Pass  (so  called  because  of  the  yel- 
low ochre,  which  the  Indians  found  here  and  used  as  paint  or  vermil- 
ion) opens  through  the  range,  permitting  a  view  of  many  a  lofty  spire 


292 


THE  EOCKY  MOUNTAIN  PARK  OF  CANADA. 


and  icy  crest  ulon^  the  continental  watershed  from  whose  glaciers  and 
snow-fields  the  Vermilion  River  flows  westward  into  the  Kootenay. 
The  lon{?,  riiR{?ed  front  of  Mount  Lefroy,  W.  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Pass,  rises  supreme  over  this  part  of  the  range — the  loftiest  and 
grandest  peak  in  the  entire  panorama.  It  takes  its  name  from  Gen- 
eral Sir  Henry  Lefroy,  who  made  the  first  magnetic  survey  of  Brit- 
ish America.  Ltitfyuu  (2,380  miles,  altitude  4,930  ft.)  is  the  station 
for  the  famed  three  Lakes  in  the  Clouds.  Ponies  and  vehicles  are 
here  in  waiting  for  those  who  desire  to  visit  these  picturesque  lakes.  Lake 
Louise,  wi.!ch  is  the  first,  is  about  2  miles  from  the  station  by  the  car- 
riage drive.  Its  altitude  is  5,800  ft.  On  the  margin  of  this  beautiful 
lake  there  is  a  comfortable  chalet  hotel  where  accommodation  is  pro- 
vided. There  is  a  bridle-path  to  Mirror  Lake,  higher  up  (altitude 
6,400  ft.,  or  3,500  ft.  above  the  station)  the  mountain,  and  a  still  fur- 
ther ascent  to  Lake  Agnes  (altitude,  6,700  ft.),  so-called  in  honor  of 
Lady  Macdonald.  There  are  also  trails  leading  to  Paradise  Valley  and 
other  delightful  spots. 

After  passing  Laggan  we  cross  the  river  and  leave  the  valley  of  the 
Bow  to  ascend  Noore's  Creek,  a  tributary  from  the  W.,  which  comes 
through  a  gap  in  the  Bow  Range.  Looking  upward  through  the  gap 
towards  Bow  Lake  and  the  huge  peak  of  Mount  Hector  (named  after 
Dr.  James  Hector),  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  first  of  the  great  glaciers. 
It  is  a  broad,  crescent-shaped  river  of  ice,  the  further  end  concealed 
behind  the  lofty  yellow  cliffs  that  hem  it  in.  It  is  1,300  ft.  above  you, 
and  more  than  a  dozen  miles  away. 

With  the  aid  of  an  extra  locomotive  the  train  slowly  ascends  towards 
the  Kicking-Horse  Pass,  also  sometimes  called  Hector  Pass,  through 
which  the  mountains  are  crossed,  and  at  the  bottom  of  which  runs  the 
foaming  Kicking-Horse  or  Wapta  River.  As  we  reach  the  summit  the 
gradient  comes  to  a  level,  and  on  the  left  we  pass  a  rustic  arch  marked 
"  The  Great  Divide,"  which  indicates  the  highest  point  on  the  C.  P.  R. 
The  station  at  the  summit  is  Stephen  (2,387  miles,  altitude  5,296  ft.), 
and  the  point  at  which  we  enter  British  Columbia. 


British  Columbia. 

This,  the  most  westerly  of  the  provinces  of  the  Dominion  of  Can- 
ada, is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Northwest  Territory,  on  the  E.  by 
Athabasca  and  Alberta,  on  the  S.  by  the  States  of  Montana,  Idaho,  and 


BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


293 


Can- 

E.  by 

10,  and 


Washington,  and  Puget  Sound,  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
It  has  an  area  of  383,300  square  milen,  and,  according  to  the  census  of 
1891,  a  population  of  98,173  inhabitants.  The  climate  varies  consider- 
ably, as  the  province  is  naturally  divide'!  into  two  sections,  insular  and 
continental.  It  is  much  more  moderate  and  equable  than  any  other 
province  of  the  Dominion.  In  the  S.  W.  portion  of  the  mainland,  and 
particularly  on  the  S.  E.  part  of  Vancouver  Island,  the  climate  is  much 
superior  to  that  of  southern  England  or  central  France.  In  this  sec- 
tion of  the  province  snow  seldom  falls,  and  then  lies  but  a  few  hours 
or  days.  Vegetation  remains  green  and  the  flowers  are  bright  through 
the  greater  part  of  nearly  every  winter ;  while  in  spring  and  summer 
disagreeable  E.  winds,  heavy  rains,  and  long- continued  fogs  are  un- 
known. British  Columbia  is  one  of  the  most  important  provinces  of 
the  Dominion,  as  well  from  a  political  as  from  a  commercial  point  of 
view.  With  Vancouver  Island  it  is  to  a  maritime  nation  invaluable, 
for  the  limits  of  its  coal  fields  can  only  be  guessed  at,  while  enough 
coal  has  already  been  discovered  on  that  island  to  cover  tne  uses  of  a 
century.  The  harbours  of  the  province  are  unrivalled,  and  include 
Victoria  and  Vancouver.  Its  timber  is  unequalled  in  quantity,  quality, 
or  variety  ;  its  mines  already  discovered  and  operated,  and  its  great  ex- 
tent of  unexplored  country,  indicate  vast  areas  of  rich  minei'al  wealth  ; 
its  waters,  containing  marvelous  quantities  of  most  valuable  fish,  com- 
bine to  give  British  Columbia  a  value  that  has  been  little  appreciated. 

In  proportion  to  the  area  of  the  province  land  suitable  for  agricul- 
tural purposes  is  small ;  but  in  the  aggregate  there  are  many  thousands 
of  square  miles  of  arable  soil,  so  diverse  in  character,  location,  and  cli- 
matic influences  as  to  be  suited  to  the  production  of  every  fruit,  cereal, 
vegetable,  plant,  and  flower  known  to  the  temperate  zone,  W.  of  the 
Cascade  Mountains  spring  and  early  summer  rains  are  quite  sufficient 
to  bring  crops  to  maturity ;  but  farther  E.,  in  the  great  stock-raising 
interior,  irrigation  is  generally  required  for  mixed  farming  purposes. 
Gold  has  been  found  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky  Motmtains,  on 
Queen  Charlotte  Island  at  the  extreme  W.,  and  on  every  range  of 
mountains  that  intervene  between  these  two  extreme  points,  the  famed 
Cariboo  mines  and  those  of  the  Trail  Creek  district  in  West  Kootenay 
have  shown  the  greatest  development.  At  Rossland  in  West  Koote- 
nay there  has  been  a  wonderful  development  in  recently  discovered 
mines.  Among  other  discoveries  is  that  of  a  ledge  of  cinnabar,  found 
at  Kamloops  Lake,  known  as  the  Rose-Bush  Mine.    The  true  vein  is 


i  I 


21)4 


UKITIt^ll    ('OMTMRIA. 


I 


rt>port,(Ml  iiH  lu'ii)^  M  iiU'licH  thick,  but  t1u'r«>  iippnnrH  to  bo  a  liir^O 
HcattoiTil  quiiiitity  bcsiilos.  Silver  liiis  Ikumi  ruiiiitl  in  HcvomI  pliiccH, 
iiikI  itt4  fiii'tluM'  (lisoovcry  will  probiibly  hIiow  tliiit  it  folliiwH  the  Hiiniu 
riilt's  IIS  in  Noviulii  and  ('oloriiilo.  Tlio  brst-kiiowii  iirf^ciitifcrourt 
locality  ir*  tlio  Slocait  ilixtrict  in  West  Kootcnay,  wliicli  riinkH  anion^ 
tlio  richcHt  nilvcr  regions  in  the  world.  (J rent  iron  deposits  exist  on 
Texada  Island  and  copper  deposits  have  been  found  at  sev(M'iil  pointu 
on  the  coast  of  the  mainland,  Howe  S«Mind,  ilarvis  Itdet,  (jiieen  ('har- 
hitte  Island,  and  other  points,  liituiiiinous  coal  has  been  worked  for 
many  years  at  Nanaimo,  on  Vanconver  Island,  where  there  are  lar^o 
deppsits  and  indications  of  coal  have  been  found  at  other  places  on 
that  island.  Seams  of  bituminous  coal  have  iteen  discovered  on  the 
mainland,  and  veins  have  been  worked  in  the  New  Westminster  and 
Nicola  districts,  and  other  indications  of  coal  have  been  found  in  sev- 
eral parts.  A  most  phenomenal  discovery  of  coal  has  been  made  in 
the  Crow's  Nest  Pass  of  tin-  Hocky  Mountains.  The  0.  V.  II.  is  construct- 
ing a  line  through  this  pass  to  the  gold  fields  of  Western  Kootenuy. 
Here  no  fewer  than  twenty  seams  are  s<>en  to  outcroj),  with  a  total  thick- 
ness of  fn)m  l}{2  ft.  t«)  IIH  ft.  There  immense  coal  measures  arc  on  the 
eve  of  development,  railway  facilities  being  assured  by  the  end  of  1898. 
Anthracite  ctml  is  now  being  extensively  mined  at  Anthracite,  on  the 
line  of  the  (\  V.  H.,  and  some  comparing  favoraldy  with  that  of 
Pennsylvania  has  been  found  in  seams  of  (>  ft.  on  Queen  (-harlotte 
Island.  In  respect  to  titnber,  there  is  no  other  province  of  Canada, 
no  country  in  Kurope,  and  no  State  in  the  United  States  that  compares 
with  it.  There  are  prairies  here  and  there,  valleys  free  from  wood, 
ai.d  nniny  openings  in  the  thickest  country,  whit'h  in  the  aggregate 
make  many  hundred  thousands  of  acres  of  land  on  which  no  clear- 
ing is  re(pnred,  but  near  each  open  spot  is  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
wood.  The  finest  growth  is  on  the  coast,  and  in  the  (Jcdd  and  Selkirk 
ranges.  Millions  on  millions  of  feet  of  lumber,  locked  up  for  centuries 
past,  have  now  become  available  for  commerce.  In  addition  to  the 
advantages  already  referred  to,  Mritish  (\)lunibia  offers  great  attrac- 
tions to  the  lover  of  rod  and  gun.  Of  gnme,  large  and  snudl,  there  is 
a  great  variety.  On  the  mainland  are  grizzly,  black,  and  brown  bears, 
panthers,  lynx,  caribou,  doer,  mountain  sheep  and  goats,  heads  and 
skins  of  which  are  the  finest  trophies  of  a  sportsman's  rifle.  Water- 
fowl, geese,  duck,  etc.,  are  very  abundant  on  the  larger  lakes,  and  these 
and  several  varieties  of  gi-ouse  are  the  principal  feathered  game,  and 


llUITIHIt    (JOUJMHIA. 


295 


onn  nlwnyH  bo  foiiii<l  in  tlio  houhuii.     Vi(ttoria  Ih  tlio  Hcat  of  Kovorn- 
muiit. 

From  Stcplion  t]w  lino  iIohcoikIh  mpidly,  pitHKin^  tlio  Itoiiutifii)  Wnpta 
hnkv  at  I/rrfor  (2,:tN]>  iiiiI(>h,  iiltitiido  n,llM>  ft.),  and  oroHKiiiK  tlio  deep 
Horfi»«  of  tlio  VVapta  ilivor,  jiint  beyond.  Tlio  Hoonc^ry  Ih  now  Hiibliinu 
and  aInio.Mt  torribUv  Tlio  lino  oliii^H  to  tin*  nioiintuin-Hido  at  tlio  loft, 
and  tlio  valloy  on  tlio  ri^lit  rapidly  dooponH  until  tlio  rivor  is  Hoon  aH  a 
Kloiiinin^  tliroad  a  tlioiisand  foot  bolow.  (iookiiif;  to  tlio  riKbt,  ono  of 
tlio  ^rundoMt  nioiintain  valloyH  in  tlio  w<irld  KtrotchoH  away  to  tlio  N., 
with  groat  whito,  gliioior-boiind  poakH  on  oitlior  Hido.  In  front  of  uh 
tlio  <lai-k  anf.pilai-  poak  of  Mount  Mold  (H,r>r)5  ft.)  Ih  hccu.  On  tlio  loft 
tlio  lofty  lioad  of  Mount  Stoplion  (l(),4'25  ft.)  and  tlio  spiroH  of  ('atlic- 
dral  Mount  (10,'2N5  ft.),  Htill  fartlior  to  tlio  loft,  oooaHionally  appoar  over 
tlio  ti'oo-topH.  This  poak  liaH  boon  not  inaptly  ooni|iarod  to  tlio  Diionio 
of  Milan.  Soon  the  nlopo  of  Mount  St(!plion  Ih  roaohod,  and  on  it8 
Hhoiildor  (to  tho  loft)  ahnoHt  ovorhoiid,  in  hooii  a  Hhining  groon  ({lacier, 
8(M»  ft.  in  thicknoHH,  which  in  wlowly  proHsinj^  forward  and  over  a  ver- 
tical cliff  of  fjroat  height.  Mount  St«'plien  in  naniod  aft(!r  Sir  fJoorge 
Stephen,  the  first  I'r<>sidoiit  of  the  C.  I*.  II.,  and  in  IHiH,  when  ho  waH 
advanced  to  the  po(!rago,  ho  chose  iih  his  title  Lord  Mount-Stephen. 
The  works  of  a  silver  iiiino  are  soon  on  the  side  of  Mount  Stephen,  hov- 
cral  hundred  feet  above  tlu;  road.  Passing  through  a  short  tunnel,  and 
hugging  the  base  of  tho  mountain  closely,  the  main  peak  is  lost  to  view 
for  a  few  ininutos ;  but  as  the  train  turns  sharply  away  it  soon  reap- 
pears with  startling  suddenness,  and  when  its  highly  colored  dome 
and  spires  arc  illuminated  by  the  sun  it  seems  to  rise  as  a  tiame  shoot' 
ing  into  the  sky. 

A  sharp  descent  is  made  along  the  pathway  and  by  the  Wapta 
River,  and  then  Fufd  {2,'.i9l  miles,  altitude  4,050  ft.),  a  tiny  hamlet  on 
its  left  blink,  named  after  (Jyrus  VV.  ^'iold,  of  New  York,  is  reached.  A 
charming  little  chalet,  the  Mt.  Stfphm  flousc,  is  a  comfortable  stop[>ing- 
place  for  those  who  desire  to  indulge  in  the  excellent  tly-fishing  for 
trout  in  the  pretty  lake  near  by.  The  station  is  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  and  its  ascent  is  usually  made  from  here.  Two  days  should 
be  taken  for  this,  and  the  view  from  the  summit  is  superb.  Looking 
down  the  valley  the  Ottertail  Mountains  are  on  the  left  and  the  Van 
Home  Range  on  the  right.  The  most  prominent  peaks  of  the  latter 
are  Mount  Deville,  named  after  the  Surveyor-General  of  the  Dominion, 
and  Mount  King,  named  after  F.  King,  a  topographer  of  this  region. 


296 


BRITI8II   COLUMBIA. 


Two  miles  beyond  Field  very  lofty  glaoicr-bciiring  heighta  are  Been  to< 
ward  the  N.  The  line  rUvH  from  the  fiiilH  of  the  Wupta,  and  after 
crossing  n  high  bridge  over  the  Ottertail  Itiver  (whence  one  of  the 
finest  views  is  obtained)  descends  again  to  the  Wapta,  whose  narrow 
valley  divides  the  Ottertail  and  Van  Ilorne  Ranges.  This  range  re- 
ceives its  name  from  Sir  William  C.  Van  Home,  the  President  of  the 
C.  P.  R.  The  line,  which  has  gradually  curved  toward  the  S.  since 
crossing  the  summit  at  Stephen,  runs  due  S.  from  hero  to  Leanchoil 
(2,410  miles,  altitude  'A,ti10  ft.),  where  the  Bcaverfoot  River  comes  in 
from  the  S.  and  joins  the  Wapta.  At  the  left,  the  highest  peaks  of 
the  Ottertail  Mountains,  rise  abruptly  to  an  immense  height,  and,  look- 
ing S.  E.,  extend  in  orderly  array  toward  the  Beaverfoot  Mountains.  At 
the  right,  Mt.  Hunter  pushes  its  huge  mass  forward  like  a  wedge  be- 
tween the  Ottertail  and  Beaverfoot  Ranges.  The  river  turns  abruptly 
against  its  base  and  plunges  into  the  lower  Kicking-horse  Caiion,  down 
which  it  disputes  the  passage  with  the  railway.  The  cafion  rapidly 
deepens,  until,  beyond  Pallmr  (2,4  IH  miles,  altitude  3,260  ft.),  the 
mountain-sides  become  vertical,  rising  straight  up  thousands  of  feet, 
and  within  an  easy  stone's- throw  from  wall  to  wall.  Down  this  vast 
chasm  the  railway  and  the  river  go  together,  the  former  crossing  from 
side  to  side  on  ledges  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  twisting  and  turn- 
ing in  every  direction,  and  plunging  through  projecting  angles  of  rock 
which  seem  to  close  the  way.  With  the  towering  cliifs  almost  shut- 
ting out  the  sunlight,  and  the  roar  of  the  river  and  the  train  increased 
by  the  echoing  walls,  the  passage  of  this  terrible  gorge  will  never  be 
forgotten. 

Downward  we  continue,  and  the  train  emerges  into  daylight  as 
Golden  (2,431  miles,  altitude  2,500  ft.),  at  the  junction  of  the  Wapta 
and  Columbia  Rivers,  is  reached.  It  is  a  little  mining  town,  and  is  the 
present  point  of  departure  for  the  East  Kootenay  mining  district.  In 
the  vicinity,  and  especially  at  the  l)ase  of  the  Spillimichene  Mountains, 
there  are  numerous  gold  and  silver  mines.  The  broad  river  ahead  is 
the  Columbia,  and  a  steamer  makes  weekly  trips  from  Golden  to  the 
lakes  at  the  head  of  the  river,  100  miles  distant.  After  leaving  Golden 
the  line  turns  abruptly  to  the  N.,  and  descends  the  open  valley  of  the 
Columbia  on  the  face  of  the  lower  bench  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
while  on  the  right  the  Selkirk  Mountains,  rising  from  their  forest-clad 
bases,  and  lifting  their  ice-crowned  heads  far  into  the  sky,  are  in  full 
view  all  the  way,  and  the  paths  of  avalanches  are  clearly  indicated  by 


t)ONALr)   TO  VANCOUVER. 


297 


the  soft  preen  stienks  down  their  siden.  AMnrh/  (2,437  miles,  altitude 
2,850  ft.)  ia  the  site  of  the  oldest  eiibin  in  the  luounttiins,  where  a  Gov- 
ernment  engineerinp  party  utuler  Walter  Moberly  passed  the  winter  of 
lH71-'72.  A  few  miles  through  the  woods,  and  then  several  sawmills 
are  passed,  after  which  we  soon  roach  Dorinfd  (2,530  miles,  altitude 
2,530  ft.),  the  terminus  of  the  Western  Division  and  the  beginning  of 
the  PaciKc  Division  of  the  0.  P.  K.  This  small  place  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated at  the  base  of  the  Dogtooth  Mountains,  and  was  long  the  head- 
quarters of  construction  of  the  mountain  division  of  the  railway.  It 
consists  chiefly  of  various  railsvay  offices,  with  the  homes  of  the  divi- 
sional officers.  The  mining  country  about  it,  and  at  the  great  bend  of 
the  Columbia  River  below,  obtain  their  stipplies  from  here.  Here  also 
the  time  changes  from  Mountain  to  Pacific  time,  which  is  one  hour 
earlier. 

Donald  to  Vancouver. 

Leaving  Donald,  the  railway  crosses  the  Columbia  River  on  a  steel 
bridge  to  the  base  of  the  Selkirks.  A  little  farther  down,  the  Rockies 
and  the  Selkirks,  crowding  together,  force  the  river  through  a  deep, 
narrow  gorge,  the  railway  clinging  to  the  slopes  high  above  it.  Emerg- 
ing from  the  gorge  at  Ikavcrmonth  (2,459  miles,  altitude  2,500  ft.), 
the  line  turns  abruptly  to  the  left  and  enters  the  Selkirks  through  the 
Gate  of  the  Beaver  River — a  passage  so  narrow  that  a  felled  tree  serves 
as  a  foot-bridge  over  it — just  where  the  river  makes  its  final  and  mad 
plunge  down  to  the  level  of  the  (.olumbia  River.  Soon  the  line  crosses 
to  the  right  bank  of  the  Beaver  River,  where,  notched  into  the  moun- 
tain-side, it  rises  at  the  rate  of  116  ft.  to  the  mile,  and  the  river  is  soon 
left  a  thousand  feet  below,  appearing  as  a  silver  thread  winding  through 
the  narrow  and  densely  forested  valley.  Opposite  is  a  line  of  huge 
tree-clad  hills,  occasionally  showing  snow-covered  heads  above  the  tim- 
ber line.  Nature  has  worked  here  on  so  gigantic  a  scale  that  many 
travelers  fail  to  notice  the  extraordinary  height  of  the  spruce,  Douglas 
fir,  and  cedar  trees,  which  seem  to  he  engaged  in  a  vain  competition 
with  the  mountains  themselves.  From  Six-Mile  Creek  (2,4(')5  miles, 
altitude  2,900  ft.),  up  the  Beaver  Yalle}',  may  be  seen  a  long  line  of 
the  higher  peaks  of  the  Selkirks  that  culminate  in  a  spire  suggesting 
the  Matterhorn  and  called  Sir  Donald  (10,6(»2  ft.).  A  few  miles  be- 
yond, at  Mountain  Creek  bridge,  where  a  powerful  torrent  comes  down 
from  the  N.,  a  similar  view  is  obtained,  only  nearer  and  larger,  and 


298 


DONALD  TO   VANCOUVKR. 


t     I 


oi^lit  pcnkH  can  bo  countud,  the  liiMt  of  whii-h  in  Sir  Doimid,  loadinf^  tlio 
line.  A  little  fiirtlicr  on  (<cdiir  ('reek  is  crossed,  and  not  fur  VV.  of  it 
is  a  very  liigli  bridge,  Hpiiniiin^  a  fotindiif;  easnide,  whence  one  of  tho 
most  beftutiful  prospects  of  the  whole  jotu-ney  Is  to  be  had. 

Ah  lirur  Crcik  (2,471  miles,  altitude  J{,r»(»()  ft.)  is  approached,  a 
glimpse  iti  eaufi;ht  of  Hermit  Mountain  ({>,(>*ir>  ft.).  Here  we  leave 
the  Heaver  Kiver  and  make  the  ascent  of  the  Selkirks  up  Hear  ('reek. 
Mountain  torrents,  many  of  them  in  splendid  cascades  which  come 
down  through  narrow  gorfjes  cut  deeply  into  the  slopes  ixVm^  which  the 
railway  creeps,  are  crossed  by  strong  bridges.  The  largest  of  these  \» 
over  Stony  ('reek — a  noisy  rill  flowing  in  tho  iiottom  of  a  narrow  T- 
shapcd  channel  2UH  ft.  below  the  rails — one  of  the  highest  railway 
bridges  in  the  world.  Snow-sheds  of  massive  timber  work  protect 
these  bridges  from  the  snow  in  winter.  Heyond  the  bridge  at  Stony  . 
Creek  the  gorge  of  Hear  ('reck  is  compressed  into  a  ravine,  with  Mount 
Maedonald  (S),S>40  ft.)  on  the  left  and  the  Hermit  on  the  right,  fornung 
the  entrance  to  Rogers's  Pass  at  the  sunnnit.  The  former  towers  above 
the  railway  in  almost  vertical  height.  Its  base  is  but  a  stone's-throw 
distant,  and  it  is  so  sheer,  so  bare  and  stupendous,  and  yel  so  near, 
that  one  is  overawed  by  a  sense  of  innnensity  and  mighty  grandeur. 
In  passing  before  the  face  of  this  gigantic  precipice  the  line  clings  to  . 
the  base  of  Hermit  Mountain,  and  as  the  station  at  Rogers's  Pass  is 
neared  its  clustered  spires  appear,  facing  those  of  Mount  Maedonald, 
and  nearly  as  high.  These  two  mountains  were  once  apparently  united, 
but  some  great  convulsion  of  Nature  has  split  them  asunder,  leaving 
barely  room  for  the  passage  of  a  train. 

The  station  of  lioijirii's  Puhh  (2,47'.>  miles,  altitude  4,275  ft.)  takes 
its  name  from  Major  T.  B.  Rogers,  by  whom  the  pass  was  discovered 
in  1883.  The  Government  has.  reserved  this  pass  with  its  mapiilicent 
mountain  scenery  as  a  National  Park.  A  few  miles  beyond  we  reach 
Selkirk  Summit  (2,481  miles,  altitude  4,300  ft.),  and  then  turning  to 
the  left  we  follow  in  our  descent  the  slope  of  the  Summit  peaks.  To 
the  right,  surrounded  by  a  pyramidal  j)eak,  is  Cheops  Mountain ;  and 
looking  out  of  the  pass  toward  the  W.,  and  ovei  the  deep  valley  of  the 
Illicilliwaet,  is  Ross  Peak,  a  massive  and  symmetrical  mountain,  with 
an  immense  glacier  on  its  eastern  slope.  Below  is  the  deep  valley  of 
the  Illicilliwaet,  and  for  miles  away  can  be  traced  the  railway  seeking 
the  bottom  of  the  valley  by  a  series  of  curves,  doubling  upon  itself 
again  and  again.    Directly  ahead  is  the  Great  Glacier,  a  vast  plateau 


ading  tlio 
VV.  u(  it 
it>  of  tho 

acliod,  a 
vii  leave 
ir  ('roek. 
idi    COIIIO 

Inch  the 
those  iH 
nrrow  T- 
railway 
protect 
lit  Htony  » 
li  Mount 
forming 
"H  above 
'M-throw 
so  near, 
•andeur. 
lings  to , 
Paws  ig 
!donaId, 
united, 
leaving 

.)  takes 
:?overed  , 
iiificent 
B  reacli 
ning  to 
:s.  To 
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of  tlie 
11,  with 
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eeking 
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>lateau 


•4m 

8 

Si 


DONALD  TO   VANCOUVER. 


299 


of  gleaming  ice  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  as  large  as  all 
those  of  Switzerland  combined.  We  continue  to  draw  nearer  and 
nearer,  tmtil  at  Glacier  House  (2,483  miles,  altitude  4,122  ft.)  we  are 
within  thirty  minutes'  walk  of  it.  To  the  left  of  the  station  Sir  Donald 
rises,  a  naked  and  abrupt  pyramid  (10,662  ft.).  This  monolith  was 
named  after  Sir  Donald  Smith  (now  Lord  Strathcord),  one  of  the  chief 
promoters  of  the  C.  P.  R.  Farther  to  the  left  are  two  or  three  sharp 
peaks,  second  only  to  Sir  Donald.  Rogers's  Pass  and  the  snowy  moun- 
tain beyond  (a  member  of  the  Hermit  Range,  which  is  called  Grizzly) 
are  in  full  view.  Again  to  the  left  comes  Cheops,  and  in  the  fore- 
ground, and  far  down  among  the  trees,  the  Illicilliwaet  glistens.  Some- 
what at  the  left  of  Cheops  a  shoulder  of  Ross  Peak  is  visible  over  the 
wooded  slope  of  the  mountain  behind  the  hotel.  The  latter,  resembling 
a  Swiss  chalet,  has  been  erected  by  the  railway  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  those  who  desire  to  stop  over.  Game  is  abundant  throughout 
these  lofty  ranges.  Their  summits  are  the  home  of  the  bighorn  sheep 
and  the  mountain  goat,  the  latter  being  seldom  found  southward  of 
Canada.  Bears  may  also  be  obtained.  Continuing  the  descent  from 
the  Glacier  House,  and  following  around  the  moimtain-side,  the  Loop 
is  reached,  where  the  line  makes  several  startling  turns  and  twists,  first 
crossing  a  valley  leading  down  from  the  Ross  Peak  glacier,  touching 
for  a  moment  on  the  base  of  Ross  Peak,  then  doubling  back  to  the 
right  a  mile  or  more  up<m  itself  to  within  a  few  feet,  then  sweeping 
around  to  the  left,  touching  Cougar  Mountain  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Illicilliwaet,  crossing  again  to  the  left,  and  at  last  shooting  down  the 
valley  parallel  with  its  former  course.  Looking  back,  the  railway  is 
seen  cutting  two  long  gashes,  one  above  the  other,  on  the  mountain 
slope,  and  farther  to  the  left,  and  high  above  the  long  snow-shed,  the 
Summit  Range,  near  Rogers's  Pass,  is  yet  visible,  with  Sir  Donald  over- 
looking all. 

The  Illicilliwaet  River,  though  of  no  great  size,  is  a  turbulent  moun- 
tain stream  whose  water  is  at  first  pea-green  with  glacier  mud,  but 
clarifies  as  it  descends.  After  passing  Ross  Peak  (2,490  miles,  altitude 
3,600  ft.)  we  reach  lUidlliwact  (2,499  miles,  altitude  3,598  ft.)  near 
where  are  several  silver  mines,  from  which  large  shipments  of  rich  ore 
have  already  been  made.  Just  E.  of  the  Albert  Canon  (2,f»05  miles, 
altitude  2,845  ft.)  the  train  runs  along  the  brink  of  several  deep 
fissures  in  the  solid  rock,  whose  walls  rise  straight  up,  hundreds  of  feet 
on  both  sides,  to  wooded  crags,  above  which  sharp,  distant  peaks  cut 


300 


DONALD  TO  VANCOUVER. 


1      > 


the  sky.  The  most  striking  of  these  canons  is  the  Albert,  where  the 
river  is  seen  nearly  300  ft.  below  the  railway,  compressed  into  a  boil- 
ing flume  scarcely  20  ft.  wide.  The  train  stops  here  for  a  few  minutes, 
and  solidly  built  balconies  enable  passengers  to  safely  look  into  the 
boiling  caldron  below.  The  next  station  is  Twin  Bntte  (2,515  miles), 
that  takes  its  name  from  the  huge  double  summit  near  by,  now  called 
Mounts  Mackenzie  and  Tilley.  Beyond  the  station  on  the  right  is  the 
peak  of  Clach-na-Coodin,  so  called  after  the  "  stone  of  the  tubs " 
in  Inverness,  Scotland.  As  we  approach  the  western  base  of  the  Sel- 
kirks  the  valley  narrows  to  a  gorge,  and  the  railway  and  river  dispute 
the  passage  through  a  chasm  with  vertical  rocky  walls  standing  but  ten 
yards  apart.  The  line  suddenly  emerges  into  an  open,  level,  and  for- 
est-covered space,  swings  to  the  right,  and  reaches  Revehtoke  (2,527 
miles,  altitude  1,4*75  ft.)  [Hotel  Revehtoke\  a  divisional  point  on  the 
bank  of  Columbia  River.  The  town  stretches  from  the  station  a  mile 
away,  and  is  a  distributing  point  for  the  adjacent  mining  camps.  A 
branch  extends  S.  td  Arrowhead  (28  miles)  from  where  the  C.  P.  R. 
steamers  run  daily  to  Nakusp  and  Robson.  Nakusp  is  near  the  foot 
of  upper  Arrow  Lake,  where  rail  communication  is  made  with  Rose- 
berry  and  New  Denver,  on  Slocan  Lake  (whence  the  C.  P.  R.  steamer 
Slocan  runs  to  Slocan  City  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  lake,  where  rail 
connection  has  been  established  with  the  Lower  Kootenay  River)  and 
with  Sandon,  in  the  very  center  of  the  rich  Slocan  silver-mining  re- 
gions. The  sail  between  Nakusp  and  Robson,  a  run  of  165  miles,  is 
through  lovely  scenery.  From  Rohnon,  the  Columbia  &  Kootenay 
Branch  runs  along  the  banks  of  the  Lower  Kootenay  River,  a  mag- 
nificent fishing  water,  to  Nelson.,  a  town  of  remarkable  growth,  where 
another  C.  P.  R.  steamboat  is  taken  for  a  visit  to  the  numerous  gold, 
silver,  and  copper  mines  on  the  Kootenay  Lake,  or  to  enjoy  the  mag- 
nificent lake  and  mountain  scenery  which  this  locality  affords.  From 
opposite  Robson  the  trains  of  the  Columbia  &  Western  Ry.  run  along 
the  western  bank  of  the  Columbia  River  to  the  important  smelting 
center  of  Trail.,  from  where  the  new  city  of  Rossland,  a  mining  camp 
of  phenomenal  growth  about  which  cluster  a  number  of  rich  mines, 
the  wealth  of  which  has  been  demonstrated  by  actual  production, 
is  reached  by  the  railway.  After  leaving  the  station  at  Revelstoke 
the  Columbia  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  half  a  mile  long,  and  the  Gold 
Range  is  entered  by  the  Eagle  Pass.  We  reach  the  highest  point 
at  Summit  Lake,  only  525  ft.,  above  the  river  some  8  miles  dis- 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


301 


tant.  Here  in  close  succession  occur  four  beautiful  lakes — Summit, 
Victor,  Three  Valley,  and  Gritfin — each  occupying  the  entire  width  of 
the  valley  and  forcing  the  railway  to  carve  for  itself  a  path  in  the 
mountain-side.  The  valley  is  filled  with  a  dense  growth  of  immenHe 
spruce,  hemlock,  fir,  cedar,  and  other  trees,  and  in  consequence  saw- 
mills  abound.  At  Craigellachie  (2,555  miles,  altitude  1,450  ft.)  we 
have  reached  the  valley  again,  and  here,  on  November  7,  1885,  the  last 
spike  was  driven  in  the  C.  P.  R.,  the  rails  from  the  E.  and  the  W.  meet- 
ing at  this  otherwise  insignificant  flag  station.  The  train  passes  on 
through  a  forest  of  dense  timber,  close  to  the  Eagle  River,  and  reached 
on  the  right  the  Shuswap  Lake.  In  the  vicinity  of  this  lake  is  one  of 
the  best  sporting  regions  on  the  line.  Northward,  within  a  day,  cari- 
bou  are  abundant;  the  deer  shooting  southward  within  30  miles  is  prob- 
ably  unexcelled  on  this  continent,  and  on  the  lakes  there  is  famous  sport 
in  deep  trolling  for  trout.  We  cross  an  arm  of  the  lake  just  before  ar- 
riving at  Sicamous  Junction  (2,571  miles,  altitude  1,300  ft.),  on  the  S. 
bank  of  the  Great  Shuswap  Lake.  It  is  the  station  for  the  Spallum- 
sheen  mining  district  and  other  regions  up  the  river  around  Okanagan 
Lake,  where  there  is  a  large  settlement.  A  branch  of  the  C.  P.  K. 
runs  S.  51  miles  to  Okanagan  Landing^  at  the  head  of  Lake  Okanagan, 
a  magnificent  sheet  of  water,  on  which  the  stanch  steamer  "  Aber- 
deen "  plies  to  Kelowna  and  to  Petifico?i,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  from 
which  the  newly  opened  Boundary  Creek  mining  region  is  reached  by 
stage.  The  Okanagan  Valley  is  one  of  the  greatest  game  regions  in 
the  world  and  was  the  scene  of  Archduke  Ferdinand  of  Austria's  ex- 
ploits in  Canada  during  his  trip  around  the  world. 

Resuming  our  journey  westward,  the  line  winds  in  and  out  the  bend- 
ing shores  of  Lake  Shuswap,  and  the  outlook  "  gives  a  tine  reminder 
of  Scottish  scenery."  Some  20  miles  beyond  the  station  we  double  a 
southern  extension  of  the  lake  called  the  Salmon  Arm,  and  then  strike 
through  the  forest  over  the  top  of  the  intervening  ridge  of  Notch  Hill 
that  gives  its  name  to  the  station  on  the  sunnnit  (altitude  1,708  ft.). 
The  view  of  the  adjacent  country  from  this  point  is  remarkably  tine. 
Besides  the  natural  features,  the  fields  and  farmhouses  with  herds  of 
cattle  and  sheep  remind  one  that  we  are  approaching  the  coast.  Near 
Shuswap  (2,622  miles)  we  regain  the  shores  of  the  lake  and  run  for 
some  distance  along  the  Little  Shuswap  Lake,  as  this  extension  is  called, 
The  lake  narrows  in  a  broad  stream  called  South  Thompson  River,  and 
we  continue  along  the  valley,  which  as  it  widens  gladdens  our  eyes  with 


r  .. 


I:i 


302 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


signs  of  settlement  and  cultivation  that  so  help  to  relieve  that  deep 
sense  of  loneliness  that  almost  oppresses  one  in  traveling  in  a  wild 
country.  There  are  Indian  villages  in  the  vicinity,  and  their  half-civil- 
ized homes  and  wealth  of  ponies  are  frecjuently  seen,  as  we  reach  and 
pass  Ducks  (2,638  miles),  near  which  is  one  of  the  old  ranches  that 
dates  back  to  the  times  of  the  gold  excitement  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
Kamloops  (2,656  miles),  with  a  population  of  2,000  inhabitants,  is  a 
divisional  point  and  the  principal  source  of  supply  for  the  extensive 
mining  and  grazing  district  of  the  Thompson  River  Valley.  Its  equable 
and  salubrious  climate  and  pleasant  surroundings  make  Kamloops  a 
favorite  resort  for  those  suffering  from  lung  troubles.  It  was  origi- 
nally a  fur-trading  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.  Its  name  signifies 
confluence  in  the  Indian  tongue,  and  it  is  at  the  junction  of  the  N.  and 
S.  branches  of  the  Thompson  River.  In  the  angle  formed  by  the  two 
branches  of  the  river  is  an  Indian  village,  and  the  mountain  that  towers 
above  it  is  Saul's  Peak  (3,5*70  ft.).  Stage  lines  extend  southward  to 
the  ranching  and  mineral  districts  that  are  to  the  S.  in  the  Okanagan 
and  Nicola  Valleys.  Just  beyond  Kamloops  the  river  widens  into  a 
broad,  beautiful  hill-girt  sheet  of  water  called  Kamloops  Lake,  along 
the  S.  bank  of  which  the  railway  runs  for  some  20  miles.  Half-way  a 
series  of  mountain  spurs  project  into  the  lake  and  are  pierced  by 
numerous  tunnels,  one  following  the  other  in  close  succession.  At 
Savonas  (2,680  miles)  the  lake  ends,  the  mountains  draw  near,  and 
the  series  of  Thompson  River  canons  is  entered,  leading  westward  to 
the  Fraser  through  marvelous  scenery.  At  low  tide  Chniamen  and 
Indians  are  often  seen  busily  engaged  in  washing  the  river  gravel  for 
gold.  Mercury  mines  of  great  value  have  been  discovered  in  this  local- 
ity. From  here  to  Port  Moody  the  railway  was  built  by  the  Dominion 
Government  and  transferred  to  the  C.  P.  R.  in  1886.  Pennys  (2,687 
miles)  is  an  old-time  ranching  settlement.  Ashcroft  (2,702  miles)  is  a 
busy  town,  and  the  point  of  departure  for  the  stage  lines  that  run  to 
Cariboo,  Barkerville,  and  other  gold  fields  in  the  northern  interior  of 
British  Columbia  and  the  Yukon,  which  after  producing  millions  of  the 
yellow  metal  are  being  further  exploited  by  hydraulic  appliances  suc- 
cessfully. Freciuent  trains  of  freight-wagons  drawn  by  yokes  of  oxen, 
and  long  strings  of  pack-mules  laden  with  merchandise,  depart  from  and 
arrive  here.  There  are  large  cattle  ranches  in  the  vicinity,  and  some 
farming  is  done.  Three  miles  beyond  Ashcroft  the  hills  press  close 
upon  the  Thompson  River,  which  cuts  its  way  through  a  winding  gorge 


> 


DONALD   TO   VANCOUVER. 


303 


of  desolation,  fitly  called  Black  Cafion.  Emerging,  the  train  follows  the 
river  as  it  meanders  swiftly  among  the  round-topped,  treeless,  and  water- 
cut  hills.  At  Spcnce's  liridge  (2,728  miles)  the  old  wagon-road  up  the 
valley  to  the  Cariboo  gold  country  crosses  the  river ;  and  the  line  crosses 
the  mouth  of  the  Nicola  River,  whose  valley,  to  the  S.,  is  a  grazing  and 
ranching  region.  Beyond  this  point  the  scenery  becomes  very  striking 
and  peculiar.  The  train  runs  upon  a  sinuous  ledge  cut  out  of  the  bare 
hills  on  the  irregular  S.  side  of  the  stream,  where  the  headlands  are 
penetrated  by  tunnels,  and  the  ravines  spanned  by  lofty  bridges ;  and 
the  Thompson  whirls  down  its  winding  path,  as  green  as  an  emerald. 
At  times  the  banks  are  rounded,  cream-white  slopes ;  next,  cliffs  of 
richest  yellow,  streaked  and  dashed  with  maroon,  jut  out ;  then  masses 
of  solid  rust-red  earth,  suddenly  followed  by  an  olive-green  grass  slope 
or  some  white  exposure.  Besides  the  interest  of  great  height  and 
breadth  of  prospect  there  is  a  constantly  changing  grotesciueness  of 
form,  caused  by  the  wearing  down  of  rocks  by  water  and  wind  into 
strange  forms.  Beyond  Drynnch  (2,'734  miles),  Nicomen,  a  little  min- 
ing town,  is  seen  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  where  gold  was 
discovered  in  British  Columbia  in  185'7.  The  mountains  draw  together 
to  a  narrow  causeway,  called  Thompson's  Cailon,  and  the  railway  winds 
along  their  face  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  river.  The  gorge  narrows 
and  the  scenery  becomes  wild  beyond  description. 

At  Lytton  (2,750  miles),  a  small  trading  town,  the  canon  suddenly 
widens  to  admit  the  Fraser,  the  chief  river  of  British  Columbia,  that 
comes  down  from  the  N.  between  two  lines  of  mountain  peaks.  It  is 
named  after  Simon  Fraser,  an  early  officer  of  the  Northwest  Fur  Co.  The 
railway  now  follows  the  cafion  of  the  united  rivers,  and  the  scene  be- 
comes even  wilder  than  before.  Six  miles  below  Lytton  the  train 
crosses  the  Fraser  River  by  a  steel  cantilever  bridge  (said  to  be  the 
first  true  cantilever  ever  l)uilt),  plunges  into  a  tunnel,  and  shortly 
emerges  at  Cisco  (2,757  miles).  The  line  then  follows  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  canon,  with  the  river  surging  far  below.  The  old  Govern- 
ment road  to  Cariboo  follows  the  Fraser  and  Thompson  Valleys,  and  is 
seen  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river.  It  twists  and  turns  about  the  cliffs, 
sometimes  venturing  down  to  the  river's  side,  whence  it  is  quickly 
driven  back  by  an  angry  turn  of  the  waters.  Six  miles  below  Cisco, 
where  it  follows  the  cliffs  opposite  to  the  railway,  it  is  forced  to  the 
height  of  1,000  feet  above  the  river,  and  is  pinned  by  seemingly 
slender  sticks  to  the  face  of  the  precipice.     The  canon  alternately 


;u)4 


DONAI.I)   TO   VAN(X)IIVKR. 


i 


widens  and  narrows.  Indians  may  be  seen  on  projei'tinj?  rooks  at  the 
water's  edge,  spearing  salmon  or  scooping  them  out  with  dip-nets,  and 
in  sunny  spots  tlic  sahnon  are  drying  on  poles.  Often  (-hinamen  aie 
passed  who  are  washing  the  .<»and  of  the  river  for  the  precious  metal 
which  they  ci'ave  even  more  than  food.  North  lieinl  (2, 77?  nules)  is  a 
divisional  point,  and  a  convenient  stopping-place  for  those  who  desire 
to  explore  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Fraser  at  greater  leisure  than  the 
rapid  movement  of  the  train  will  permit,  or  perhaps  to  spend  a  short 
time  in  shooting  and  fishing.  Comfortable  (piarters  can  be  had  at  the 
chalet  hotel  near  the  station.  At  4  miles  below  the  principal  caiion  of 
the  Fraser  River  begins,  and  from  here  onward  for  215  miles  the  scenery 
is  not  only  intensely  interesting  but  startling,  and  has  been  even  described 
as  "  matchless."  The  great  river  is  forced  between  vertical  walls  of 
black  rocks,  where,  repeatedly  thrown  back  upon  itself  by  opposing 
cliffs  or  broken  by  ponderous  masses  of  fallen  rock,  it  roars  and  foams. 
The  jutting  spurs  of  the  cliff  are  pierced  by  tunnels  in  close  succession. 
At  /Spnzziim  (2,7S>2  miles)  the  old  (Jovernment  road  crosses  the  chasm 
by  a  graceful  suspension  bridge  to  the  side  of  the  railway  and  keeps 
with  it  for  some  distance.  The  road  is  now  abandoned  and  is  in  many 
places  impassable.  Just  before  reaching  Ynlc  (2,803  miles)  the  enor- 
mous cliffs  apparently  shut  together  as  if  to  bar  the  way.  The  river 
then  makes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  left,  and  the  railwfiv,  turning  to  the 
right,  disappears  into  a  long  tunnel,  emerging  into  daylight  and  re- 
joining the  river  as  we  approach  the  station.  Yale  is  an  old  trading- 
post  and  frontier  town,  with  some  1,500  inhabitants,  which  was  once  an 
outfitting  point  for  miners  and  ranchmen  northward.  Indian  huts  are 
to  be  seen  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  in  the  town  a  cimspicu- 
ous  joss-house  indicates  the  presence  of  Cliinameu,  who  may  be  seen 
washing  for  gold  on  the  river  bars  below.  Yale  is  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation of  the  lower  Fraser  Uiver,  and  was  once  the  leading  place  of  the 
province.  After  leaving  this  town  the  river  widens  and  becomes  less 
turbulent.  Soon  I/ojtc  (2,817  miles)  is  reached,  with  the  village  proper 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bank.  To  the  S.  W.  are  the  Hope  Peaks, 
where  rich  silver  lodes  exist,  and  only  await  suitable  fuel  to  be 
worked  profitably.  The  valley  continues  to  broaden,  and  well-cultivated 
fields  become  more  and  more  fretpient.  Eiibi/  Creek  (2,824  mile?)  is 
named  from  the  garnets  fo\ind  in  the  vicinity.  Agamiz  (2,835  miles), 
overlooked  by  Mount  Cheam  (11,000  feet),  where  a  Government  ex- 
perimental farm  is  operated,  is  the  station  for  the  hot  sulphur  Harri- 


DONALD  TO   VANCOUVER. 


305 


son  Springs  (St.  Alice  Hotel),  on  Harrison  Lake,  6  miles  N.  ^c..f 
Harrison  (2,844  miles)  the  Harrison  River  is  crossed,  just  above  its 
confluence  with  the  Fraser.  Until  the  opening  of  the  Fraser  route,  in 
1864,  the  only  access  to  the  gold  diggings  in  the  northern  interior  of 
the  province  was  by  way  of  the  Harrison  Valley.  A  few  miles  beyond 
Nicomen  (2,853  miles)  the  beautiful  isolated  cone  of  Mount  Baker 
(13,000  feet),  in  the  State  of  Washington,  comes  into  view  on  the  left. 
From  Mission  Junction  (2,863  miles),  where  the  Roman  Catholic  Indian 
Mission  of  St.  Mary  has  long  been  in  existence,  a  branch  crosses  the 
Fraser  River  and  runs  to  the  international  boundary  line,  where  con- 
nection is  made  with  the  Seattle  and  International  Ry.  for  all  points  in 
Washington,  Oregon,  and  California.  At  the  crossing  of  the  Stave 
River,  8  miles  beyond,  the  finest  view  of  Mount  Baker  is  had,  looking 
back  and  up  the  Fraser,  which  has  become  a  mighty  river.  Immense 
trees  are  now  frequent,  and  their  size  is  indicated  by  the  enormous 
stumps  near  the  railway.  The  Great  Pitt  Meadows  and  the  Pitt  River 
are  crossed  and  at  Neio  Westminster  Junction  (2,888  miles)  a  branch  di- 
verges 8  miles  S.  W.  to  New  Westminster'  {Guichon  and  Colonial  Hotels), 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Fraser  River,  about  15  miles  from  its  mouth. 
New  Westminster,  with  a  population  of  about  9,000,  is  the  oldest  city  in 
the  region,  and  was  once  the  capital  of  the  province.  It  contains  the 
Provincial  Penitentiary  and  Insane  Asylum,  the  Royal  Hospital,  a  pub- 
lic library,  and  other  similar  institutions.  It  is  the  center  of  the  salmon 
industry,  and  the  several  canneries  in  the  vicinity  represent  an  invested 
capital  of  nearly  $1,500,00*0.  There  are  also  extensive  interests  con- 
nected with  the  sawing  and  shipping  of  lumber.  It  is  a  terminus  of  the 
New  Westminster  and  Southern  Branch  of  the  Great  Northern  R.  R. 
that  comes  from  New  Whatcom,  and  it  is  connected  by  an  electric  rail- 
way with  Vancouver.  Steamboats  ply  regularly  to  Victoria  and  to  other 
ports  on  the  Strait  of  Georgia  and  Puget  Sound.  Returning  to  the 
main  line,  our  route  bends  to  the  right  after  leaving  Westminster  Junc- 
tion, and  with  a  short  run  through  a  wooded  diii^trict  reaches  Port  Moody 
(2,893  miles),  at  the  head  of  Burrard  Inlet,  an  arm  of  the  Strait  of 
Georgia.  It  was  for  some  time  the  Pacific  terminus  of  the  railway. 
The  line  continues  for  the  remainder  of  the  route  along  the  S.  shore  of 
the  inlet.  At  intervals  are  mills  with  small  villages  around  them,  while 
in  the  inlet  are  ocean  steamships  and  sailing  craft  of  all  kinds,  load 
ing  with  sawed  timber  for  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  scenery  is  fine. 
Snow-tipped  mountains,  beautiful  in  form  and  color,  rise  above  the  N. 
ao 


300 


VANCOUVKR. 


side  of  the  inlet  and  are  vividly  '  Hectud  in  the  niirrur-like  wutcrn.  The 
Pacific  terminus  of  the  route  ia  readied  ut  VaHcouvcr  (2,i)0U  miles  from 
Montreal).  \ 

Vancouver. 

The  principal  hotel  is  J/otel  VnHcoHvcr,  built  and  operated  by  the 
G.  P.  R.  It  is  o?>  high  ground  overlooking  the  harbor,  and  affords  a  flne 
view.  Leland  Iloune,  liudminlon  //omc,  and  Jlofel  t'oluuifna  are  like- 
trise  well-appointed  hotels  with  modern  convenijucos.  Vancouver  pos- 
sesses an  ideal  situation.  It  rises  gradually  front  Coal  Harbor,  a  widen- 
ing of  Burrard  Inlet,  and  extends  across  a  strip  of  land  to  Knglish  Bay, 
thus  affording  it  excellent  natural  drainage,  harbor  facilities,  and  com- 
mercial advantages,  while  the  (Cascade  Mountains  to  the  N.  afford  a 
pleasant  vista.  The  site  of  the  city  was  covered  with  a  dense  fores* 
until  May,  1886,  when  it  was  aci-epted  as  the  W.  terminus  of  the 
C.  P.  R.  In  two  months  it  grew  into  a  place  of  ()0<)  inhabitants,  and 
then  it  was  destroyed  by  fire.  This  disaster  proved  a  blessing  in  dis- 
guise, for  the  woodeh  buildings  were  replaced  by  those  of  brick  and 
stone,  and  in  1891  the  census  returns  indicated  a  population  of  13,- 
709,  which  now  (1898)  exceeds  2(>,()00.  Adjacent  to  the  Vancou- 
ver Hotel  is  the  C.  P.  R.  Opera-IIouse.  Fine  churches,  not^ably  the 
Presbyterian  and  the  Episcopal,  are  worthy  of  mention.  The  City  Hall, 
the  Custora-IIouse  and  Post-Ollice,  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  and  Mie  pub- 
lie  schools  are  among  the  larger  civic  and  commercial  buildings.  The 
private  residences  have  handsome  lawns  and  gardens  around  them,  and 
Stanley  Park  (960  acres)  has  been  reserved  as  a  pleasure  ground.  Elec- 
tric street  railways  are  running,  and  the  streets  are  lighted  both  by 
gas  and  electricity.  Opportunities  for  sport  are  unlimited — mountain 
goats,  bear,  and  deer  in  the  hills  along  the  inlet,  trout-fishing  in  the 
mountain  streams,  and  sea-fishing  in  endless  variety.  Besides  the 
C.  P.  R.  there  are  steamship  lines  to  Australia,  Japan,  and  China,  the 
Hawaiian  and  Fijian  Islands  and  New  Zealand.  Also  the  city  has  con- 
nections with  all  important  points  along  the  Pacific  coast  from  San 
Francisco  to  Alaska.  The  mail  service  between  Vancouver  and  Japan 
and  China  employs  three  steel  steamships,  called  the  Empress  of  India, 
the  Empress  of  Japan,  and  the  Empress  of  China,  especially  designed 
for  that  trade.  The  Canadian-Aiistralian  line  gives  a  service  to  Aus- 
tralia, by  way  of  Honolulu,  II.  I.,  Suva,  Fiji,  and  Wellington,  N.  Z., 
every  four  weeks.     There  are  almost  daily  steamers  to  Alaska  during 


)ub- 
The 
and 
Elec- 
th  by 
ntain 
the 
the 
I,  the 
con- 
San 
apan 
ndia, 
gned 
Aus- 
.Z., 
ring 


VANCOUVER  TO   VICTORIA. 


307 


the  summer  months,  the  C.  P.  R.'s  ocean  Hteunjers  Tartar  and  Athenian 
plying  regularly  to  porta  from  which  lead  overland  routes  to  the  Kl«)n- 
dike.  Steamers  ply  between  Vancouver  and  Victoria  and  Nanaiino 
daily,  and  connection  is  made  at  Victoria  for  all  Puget  Sound  ports 
and  to  Portland  and  San  Francisco. 

Vancouver  to  Victoria. 

The  route  to  Victoria  is  by  water.  A  steamer  leaves  Vancouver 
daily  except  Monday,  shortly  after  the  arrival  of  the  transcontinental 
trains,  and  makes  the  trip  in  about  six  hours.  The  sail  is'  usually  a 
pleasant  one,  and  is  certainly  a  picturescjue  one.  On  the  N.  is  Mwnlji- 
ville,  an  Indian  mission  village  of  some  300  or  4(»0  houses,  backed  ))y  the 
snow-capped  hills  of  the  Cascade  Kange.  Vancouver  passes  slowly  out 
of  sight,  and  the  Strait  of  (leorgia  is  soon  reached,  and  it  forms  the 
eastern  and  northern  boundary  of  Vancouver's  Island.  Our  course  is  to 
the  S.,  and  on  the  W.  are  the  mountains  on  Vancouver's  Island,  while 
to  the  E.  is  the  white  cone  of  Mount  Baker  (10,810  ft.).  Soon  we  reach 
Haro  Archipelago,  and  the  steamer  winds  in  and  out  the  numerous  green 
islands  along  the  line  of  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and 
Canada,  sometimes  called  Canal  de  Haro,  which  in  18*72  was  decided 
by  the  Emperor  of  Germany  to  be  the  line  of  demarcation.  We  have 
been  going  directly  S.,  and  the  peaks  of  Olympic  Mountains  are  seen 
on  the  S.  shore  of  the  sound,  with  Mount  Olympus  and  Mount  Constance 
towering  above  the  rest.  Finally,  a  turn  is  made  to  the  right  and  the 
harbor  of  Victoria  is  entered.  On  Mondays  connection  with  Vic- 
toria is  by  way  of  New  Westminster.  (Applktons'  Guidk-Book  to 
Alaska  contains  much  information  about  British  Columbia,  and  also 
see  Part  II  of  Appletons'  Genkkal  Guide  to  the  United  States  and 
Canada.) 

Victoria  {Driard,  Hotel  Dallas,  Hotel  Victoria)  is  the  capital  of 
British  Columbia  and  the  residence  of  the  Lieutenaut-Ciovernor.  It 
is  on  a  small  arm  of  the  sea,  commanding  a  superb  view  of  the  Strait 
of  Georgia,  the  mountains  of  the  mainland,  and  snow-capped  Mount 
Baker  in  the  distance  to  the  S.  E.  Oiiginally  it  was  a  stockaded  post 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  and  was  then  called  Fort  Victoria.  From  the 
time  of  the  gold  excitement  in  1858  its  growth  has  been  steady.  In 
1866  it  was  made  the  capital  of  the  province,  and  in  18i»3  it  became  the 
station  of  a  company  of  Royal  Marine  Artillery  and  Engineers.     Its 


308 


THK    YUKON   GOLD    FIELDS. 


population  in  \H\)\  wan  15,841,  and  it  is  now  (18i>8)  entiinftted  to  be 
over  2(),(><>().  The  dinuite  is  that  of  the  south  of  Kngland,  and  the 
town  i«  peculiui'ly  Knglish  in  ull  its  chiinu'teristics.  Besides  the  nuig- 
niHcent  (Jovenunent  buildings  erei'ted  ut  a  eost  of  about  $1,000,000, 
containing  a  niusouni  and  library,  in  which  are  displayed  the  products 
of  the  province,  the  city  has  many  fine  public  and  private  buildings, 
among  them  a  large  and  well-appointed  opera  house.  There  are 
churches  of  all  denominations,  including  an  Anglic.in  cathedral.  The 
manufacturing  inteiests  of  the  province  are  largely  centered  at  Vic- 
toria. It  has  large  iron  woi'ks,  several  foundries  and  nuichine  shops, 
and  many  factories.  The  city  has  an  extensive  trade,  especially  of  furs, 
and  there  are  many  large  commercial  houses  It  is  amply  provided 
with  educational  facilities,  both  public  and  private.  The  public  schools 
are  supported  by  the  Government,  and  controlled  by  a  school  board 
elected  by  popular  vote.  Besides  these  there  are  the  Ladies'  College, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Anglican  Church,  and  an  academic  institution, 
as  well  as  a  primary  school,  maintained  by  the  Roman  Catholic  denom- 
ination. There  are  Protestant  and  Roman  Catholic  or{>hanages.  The 
city  has  a  public  library  of  over  10,000  volumes,  and  several  of  the 
fraternal  and  benevolent  societies  also  have  libraries  of  considerable 
size.  Beacon  Hill  Park  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  waters  and  moun- 
tains on  every  side.  The  Chinese  (piarter  is  always  interesting  to  visit- 
ors, A  railway  extends  N.  E.  70  miles  to  the  coal-mines  of  Nnnnimo. 
Connection  is  made  with  Puget  Sound  ports  daily,  except  Moiylays,  and 
steamships  depart  about  every  five  days  for  San  Francisco.  Steamers 
from  and  to  Vancouver,  for  Japan,  China,  Australia,  and  Alaska  stop 
at  Victoria  for  passengers.  Esqmninlt  Harbor,  2  miles  from  Victoria, 
is  the  British  naval  station  and  rendezvous  on  the  North  Pacific,  with 
naval  storehouses,  workshops,  graving  docks,  etc.  A  number  of  men- 
of-war  are  to  be  found  there  at  all  times. 


The  Yukon  Gold  Fields. 

As  long  ago  as  1880  gold  was  discovered  in  paying  quantities  in 
Alaska,  but  the  difficulty  in  securing  satisfactory  transportation  and  the 
lack  of  adequate  supplies  made  mining  operations,  even  when  confined 
to  placer  deposits,  a  hazardous  operation.  Notwithstanding  these  difficul- 
ties, there  has  been  a  constant  influx  of  fortune-seekers,  chiefiv  to  the 
gold  fields  of  the  Yukon,  especially  since  1895  ;   and  in  1897  it  was  esti- 


THE    YUKON    OOF-D    FIKLDS. 


309 


tnattMl  thiit  more  tlian  n,(i<i()  porsoiiH  iiitule  their  wiiy  into  tiiin  new  mining 
region  of  the  Kloiidilie,  while  (hiring  tliiit  year  the  output  of  gold  wan 
eatimuted  hy  (ioviTiuuont  (^Hiciuls  to  have  been  upward  of  $2,500,000. 

Location. — Tl  c  Yukon  district  of  the  Northwest  Territories  of  Can- 
ada, in  whifli  tlie  Klondiltcgold  fields  are  located,  comprises  a  vast  stretch 
of  country  lying  between  the  Arctic  Ocean  on  the  N.,  the  141st  west 
meriilian  or  internatioiuil  boundary  line  which  separates  it  from  the 
Territory  of  Alaska  on  the  W.,  the  northern  boimdury  (»f  the  Province  of 
British  Coluud)ia  on  the  S.,  and  the  summit  of  the  Canadian  Kocky 
Mountains  whicli  divides  it  from  the  Mackenzie  Hasin  on  the  K.  The 
district  is  about  6(>0  miles  fnmi  N.  to  S.  by  over  500  miles  from  E.  to 
W.  at  its  southern  boundary,  with  grailuully  lessening  distances  toward 
the  N. 

How  to  reach  the  Gold  FUhh. — There  are  essentially  three  distinct 
routes  for  reaching  the  gold  deposits.  First,  the  overland  routes. 
These  begin  at  EdmonUm  in  Alberta,  on  the  C.  P.  R.,  and  continue 
northward  either  by  the  Mackenzie  River  or  by  the  Peace  and  Pelly 
Rivers  to  Fort  Selkirk^  thence  by  boat  on  the  Yukon  River  to  Dawson 
Clt}/.  It  is  also  possible  to  start  from  either  Kauilooja  or  Ashcroff,  on 
the  C.  P.  R.,  and  thence  proceed  overland  to  Telegraph  Creek  on  the 
Stikine  River  and  thence  overland  to  TckUu  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  from  where  the  remainder  of  the  route  is  by  boat. 

Second,  a  combination  of  the  overland  and  sea  routes.  These  begin 
at  Vancouver,  Victoria,  or  Seattle,  and  proceed  thence  by  steamer  to 
either  YVravi/el or  Sitka.  From  Wrangel  the  Stikine  route  may  be  taken 
by  way  of  the  Stikine  River  to  GUnora,  thence  over  a  trail  of  146  miles 
to  Lake  Tcslin,  whence  the  river  route  mentioned  previously  may  be 
taken  to  Fort  Selkirk  and  Dawson  Citi/.  The  Skagway  route  is  by 
steamer  from  Vancouver  to  Skagway,  thence  over  the  Chilkoot  Pass  or 
the  White  Pass  to  Tagisli  Lake,  whence  the  route  is  by  water  to  Lewes 
River  and  Fort  Selkirk.  The  Dalton  route  starts  from  Pyramid  Har- 
bor (10  miles  below  Skagway)  and  continues  overland  to  Fort  Selkirk. 
This  is  considered  a  good  route  for  live  stock,  and  the  entire  distance 
of  350  miles  from  Pyramid  Harbor  to  Fort  Selkirk  can  be  made  on 
horseback  in  15  days. 

Third,  the  all-water  route.  This  is  by  ocean  steamer,  starting  from 
San  Francisco  or  Seattle  and  proceeding  thence  to  St.  Michaels,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Yukon  River,  and  thence  by  river  steamboat  up  the 
Yukon  to  Dawson  City. 


310 


THE    YUKON    GOLD   FIELDS. 


7%*?  Mhrhif)  Tit'i  'on. — The  Yukon  ia  not  the  desolate  region  that  it 
has  been  pictured.  A  great  part  of  the  valley  is  clothed  with  forests  of 
spruce,  birch,  and  cottonwood,  all  of  which  are  good  for  building  pur- 
poses. The  hills  are  covered  with  large  trees,  and  in  the  valleys  there 
is  still  better  timber.  One  sawmill  in  Dawson  City  is  already  in  opera- 
tion, and  others  will  be  established  to  supply  the  local  demand  for 
sawed  luml>er  at  reduced  cost  from  the  present  prices.  Coal  is  also 
abundant  in  the  vicinity  of  Dawson  City,  and  conveniently  situated  for 
mining. 

An  official  bulletin,  issued  by  the  Canadian  Government,  says : 

With  the  comparatively  low  temperature  all  through  the  summer 
and  the  prevalence  of  frost  during  the  early  part  of  June  and  again 
before  the  end  of  August,  which  shortens  the  growing  season  at  both 
ends,  there  seems  to  be  no  prospect  of  much  being  ever  done  in  the 
way  of  agriculture  in  such  a  climate.  More  success,  however,  is  likely 
to  be  had  along  the  margin  of  rivers  than  elsewhere.  There  are  a  few 
garden  products  which  mature  in  a  very  short  period  that  can  be  grown 
in  this  district  fairly  well,  such  as  radish,  lettuce,  and  early  varieties  of 
cabbage  and  turnips.  These  latter  do  not  grow  to  a  large  size,  but 
attain  sufficient  maturity  to  make  them  fit  for  use.  To  this  list  may 
probably  be  added  spinach,  early  varieties  of  green  peas,  also  early 
beets  and  carrots,  and  possibly  some  early  sorts  of  onions  might  grow 
large  enough  for  use.  Rhubarb  also  would  be  worthy  of  trial,  and  if 
the  roots  were  not  killed  by  the  severe  winter,  this  plant  would  furnish 
a  useful  substitute  for  fruit  in  the  early  part  of  the  season.  Potatoes 
have  been  grown  in  several  localities,  but  unless  planted  in  a  suitably 
sheltered  spot  they  need  some  special  protection  against  frost  in  Au- 
gust, which  is  apt  to  cut  them  down  before  the  tubers  reach  a  usable 
size. 

Some  portions  of  the  country  abound  in  large  and  and  small  game, 
but  in  the  region  about  the  Klondike  and  farther  east  there  is  little,  if 
any,  along  the  rive  except  rabbits,  ducks,  and  geese  in  the  spring  of 
the  year,  with  caribou  and  a  few  moose  and  bear  beyond  the  river,  and 
bighorn  (mountain  sheep)  and  mountain  goats  on  the  sides  of  the  high- 
est mountains.  Birds  are  scarce,  but  there  are  partridge  and  ptarmi- 
gan in  some  localities.  Fishing  is  good,  especially  for  salmon,  which 
weigh  up  to  80  and  100  pounds,  and  there  are  grayling,  whitefish,  lake 
trout,  and  eels. 

The  principal  centei's  of  the  Yukon  are  Dawson  City,  Forty  Mile 
Post,  and  Fort  Cudahy  in  Canadian  territory.  Dawson  City  in  the 
Klondike  is  the  great  central  mining  camp ;  but  new  towns  are  con- 
stantly springing  up  and  becoming  important  points  not  only  on  the 


THE   YUKON    GOLD   FIELDS. 


311 


the 


Yiik(Ki  River,  hut  along  the  Hootalinqua  River  and  about  Lake  Teslin, 
ill  northern  British  Cohimbia,  where  proHpectors  have  already  discov- 
ered gold  in  paying  quantities.  Gold  has  also  been  found  on  the  Stikine 
River.  The  Yukon's  banks  are  dotted  here  and  there  with  native  vil- 
lages and  small  settlements  inhabited  by  traders,  missionaries,  and 
Indians.  There  are  stores,  hotels,  and  restaurants  at  the  chief  mining 
centers,  and  these  will  doubtless  be  augmented  to  meet  the  increased 
requirements  of  newcomers  during  the  present  season. 

The  chief  interest  in  this  region  naturally  concerns  itself  with  min- 
ing, and  therefore  the  following  very  brief  description  of  the  methods 
pursued  in  getting  out  the  placer  gold  will  be  of  value : 

The  valleys  of  the  creeks  are  generally  wide  at  the  bottom  and  flat, 
being  seldom  less  than  300  ft.  to  400  ft.  This  is  covered  with  a  dense 
growth  of  underbrush  and  small  spruce,  with  occasionally  balsam,  pop- 
lar, or  Cottonwood.  Much  of  the  wood  is  suitable  for  sluice-box  pur- 
poses,  and  the  rest  may  be  used  for  firewood,  which  is  an  important 
factor  in  developing  the  mines  of  this  region.  The  moss  and  ice  cover- 
ing a  space  8  or  10  ft.  long  by  7  or  8  ft.  wide  are  cleared  away  from 
the  surface,  or  a  hole  some  6  ft.  long  by  4  ft.  wide  is  dug,  and  a  fire 
built.  During  the  night  the  ground  is  thawed  to  a  depth  of  from  6 
to  12  in.  Next  morning  this  thawed  ground  is  pitched  out  and  the 
process  is  repeated  until  the  l)ed-rock  is  reached,  which  is  generally 
at  a  depth  of  from  15  to  20  ft.  About  10  ft.  down  we  leave  the  vege- 
table matter,  the  alluvial  deposits,  and  enter  a  stratum  of  coarse  gravel, 
the  gravel  showing  very  little  rounding  or  wearing.  At  the  bottom  of 
this,  close  to  the  bed-rock,  the  pay  streak  is  found,  and  is  seldom  more 
than  3  ft.  in  depth,  the  best-paying  part  being  immediately  on  the  bed- 
rock. This  is  not  solid  rock,  but  a  mass  of  angular,  broken  rock  lying, 
no  doubt,  in  its  original  location  in  space.  Between  these  masses  clay 
and  fine  gravel  have  become  imbedded.  Into  this  the  miner  proceeds 
a  foot  or  more.  To  burn  the  hole  requires  about  three  weeks'  time  and 
a  good  deal  of  labor. 

Quartz  mining  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have  begun  yet>  but  authori- 
ties unite  in  predicting  that  it  will  ultimately  become  the  chief  industry 
of  the  country.  As  conditions  have  hitherto  been  with  lack  of  milling 
facilities,  quartz  has  little  value  compared  with  placer  claims,  and  con- 
sequently was  not  sought.  Prospecting  for  quartz  and  veins,  too,  is 
more  difficult  than  for  placer  diggings,  the  outcrops  in  the  hills  and 
mountains  being  generally  covered  with  several  feet  of  debris  or  slide 
as  well  as  by  moss,  A  number  of  claims,  however,  have  been  located 
— seven  in  the  vicinity  of  Forty  Mile  and  Dawson,  where  the  existence 
of  a  mountain  of  low-grade  gold-bearing  ore  is  reported ;  two  others 


312 


THE   YTTKON    GOLD   FIELDS. 


about  40  miles  up  the  river ;  another  in  Bear  Creek ;  one  on  Gold 
Bottom,  which  turned  out  on  tests  from  i^lOO  to  $1,000  a  ton ;  and 
another  about  30  miles  up  the  Klondike  River.  Copper  ore  is  also 
found  in  the  placers  and  in  the  river  banks  and  in  the  bars.  The  sedi- 
mentary coal-bearing  deposits  are  also  abundant  and  widespread,  and  it 
is  claimed  that  gold-bearing  conglomerates  in  geological  age  corre- 
sponding to  those  of  South  Africa,  but  of  unproved  richness,  are  found 
in  several  places. 

Those  who  desire  to  learn  more  of  the  Northwestern  Territories — 
and,  for  that  matter,  the  gold  deposits  of  the  Yukon  River  are  not  the 
only  ones  known  to  exist  in  that  region — should  consult  the  latest  edi- 
tion of  AlTLETONS'  GUIDK  TO  Al.ASKA. 


APPENDIX  FOR  SPORTSMEN. 


TouuiSTS  who  seek  Eastern  Caimda  for  the  sake  of  sport  may  look 
for  certain  general  inforiiiation  which  has  not  seemed  to  find  a  phiee 
readily  in  the  forcf!;oin'i;  pages.  In  regard  to  supplies,  it  may  he  note<i 
that  they  can  generally  be  obtained  in  Canadian  cities  at  a  much  lower 
price,  for  like  (juality,  than  in  the  great  American  centres.  The  Ca- 
nadian dealers  have  the  advantage  of  a  lighter  tariff,  and  they  do  not 
charge  fancy  prices.  Tackle  of  most  kinds,  of  the  best  Canadian  and 
English  manufacture,  can  be  bought  in  Toronto,  Montreal,  Quebec,  Ht. 
John,  or  Halifax,  at  figures  which  would  be  impossible  in  New  York 
or  Boston.  The  favourite  "  all-round  "  rod  of  the  present  writer  is  a 
heavy  trout-rod  with  which  he  has  killed  some  fine  salmon.  It  is  made 
of  green-heart  and  lance-wood,  nickel-mounted,  and  with  neat  basket- 
work  grip ;  and  it  cost  but  $10.    It  was  made  by  Scribner,  of  St,  John. 

Supplies  that  are  obviously  personal  are  usually  passed  through 
the  customs  without  demur.  But  luxuries  like  tobacco,  with  eatablcH 
and  drinkables  generally,  are  pretty  sure  to  be  taxed ;  and  the  trav- 
eller may  save  himself  troiible  by  waiting  till  he  is  across  the  border 
before  laying  in  his  stock.  Canadian  tobacco  is  but  American  leaf 
made  up  in  Canada.  As  for  wearing  apparel,  that  is  regarded  very 
liberally,  and  one  may  take  an  ample  wardrobe  without  being  (pieH- 
tioned.  No  one  wants  to  smuggle  clothing  from  America  into  Canada, 
for  obvious  reasons.  Let  the  sportsman,  then,  come  generously  sup- 
plied with  warm  flannels  (unless  he  prefers  to  purchase  these  en  rou/e), 
for,  however  hot  the  days  may  be  on  Canadian  fishing-waters,  the 
nights  are  apt  to  be  chilly. 

A  word  in  regard  to  board  in  private  houses.  This  is  usiially  plain, 
and  always  inexpensive.  It  is  not  often  any  higher  than  $1  pcjr  day  or 
$5  per  week.  Throughout  the  Maritime  Provinces,  at  least,  good  accom- 
modations may  be  found  almost  anywhere  at  f4  per  week.  (iuidcM 
and  camp  help  ask  from  |1  to  $1.50  per  day,  according  to  locality. 
On  the  Tobique  River  an  Indian  guide  supplies  his  services  and  his 
canoe  for  $1  or  $1.25  per  day,  and  his  board.     The  variation  in  the 


314 


APPENDIX   FOR    SPORTSMEN. 


charge  is  dependent  on  the  season,  the  guide's  humor,  and  the  demand 
for  his  services.  On  the  Restigouche  a  guide  witli  canoe  charges 
$1.50  a  day,  and  finds  himself  ;  or  .'Jsl.25  per  day  with  board. 

To  avoid  disappointments,  the  tourist  should  bear  in  mind  that  in 
the  provinces  of  Quebec  and  New  Brunswicli  the  best  salmon  rivers, 
and  many  of  the  best  trout-waters,  are  leased  to  private  persons  or 
fishing  clubs.  Lists  of  the  leased  waters  are  issued  annually  by  the 
Provincial  (iovernments,  and  full  information  on  the  subject  may  be 
obtained  by  application  to  the  Fisheries  Commissioners  of  these 
two  provinces,  at  Quebec  and  Fredcricton  respectively.  Armed  with 
such  information,  the  true  sportsman  will  find  no  difficulty  in  getting 
the  hospitality  of  some  of  the  leased  waters  extended  to  him,  for  a 
longer  or  shorter  period.  In  Ontario  and  Nova  Scotia  the  waters  are  not 
leased,  as  a  rule,  and  the  fishing  rights  rest  primarily  in  the  hands  of 
the  riparian  owners,  who,  indeed,  sometimes  lease  their  privileges.  In 
Nova  Scotia  sportsmen,  as  a  rule,  fish  wherever  they  find  good  waters, 
without  making  any  minute  inquiry  into  riparian  rights.  This  freedom 
is  a  great  convenience  to  the  hasty  traveler,  who  does  not  make  up  his 
mind  till  the  last  moment  as  to  the  direction  of  his  wanderings. 

STATEMENT  RESPECTING   FISH   CAUGHT   BY   AN(1LING   IN   THE 
RIVERS  OP  (ilTEBEC  DURING  THE  YEAR  1895. 

{From  the  Report  of  the  Commisnoner  of  Vrown  Lands.) 

North  Siioue. 


RIVERS. 


Saguenay  River  (part) 

Little  Saguenay 

Trinity 

Murray 

Moisic 

St.  Jean  (Chicontinii) 

A.  Mars 

St.  Marguerite  (North  l)ranch) 
St.  Marguerite  (West  brancii) 

Weseonneau,  etc 

A  la  Truite  (St.  Maurice) 

Pabeloganaiig 

Metabetchouan  (central  part) 

Maetigouche 

Metabetchouan  (upper  part). . 

Tourilli  and  St.  Anne 


LESSEES. 


J.  G.  Aylwin  Creighton . 

Harrison  E.  Gawtry 

John  D.  Gilmour 

W.H.Blake...  

Holliday  Brop 

Evan  John  Price 

it,  4. 

Walter  M.  Brackett '.'.'.'.'. 

St.  Marguerite  Salmon 
Club 

Lanrcntian  Club 

Henry  E.  Hart 

Laurentian  Club 

Amabel  ish  Game  and 
Fishing  Club  of  Spring- 
field, U.  S.  A 

Mrs  PJ.  M.  Copeland 

Penn  Fiwhing  and  Game 
Club,  Qiiebec 

Tourilli  Fish  and  Game 
Club 


Yearly 
rent. 

No.  of 
salmon. 

No.  of 
trout. 

$25 
405 

130 
(50 

105 

25 

105 

180 

305 

85 

410 
15 

No  fishing 
12 
55 
12 

77 

112 

15 
10 

No  fishing 

188 

1,188 

2,800 

1,017 

130 

188 

50 

No.  of 
trout. 


25 


112 

» 

.     1,138 

,.     2,800 


1,017 


APPENDIX   FOR   SPORTSMEN. 

North  Shore.— (f/o«/i«wct?.) 


315 


RIVERS. 

LESSEES. 

Yearly 
rent. 

No.  of 
salmon. 

No.  of 
trout. 

St.  Aiigustin 

C.  S.  Campbell 

$75 

1.50 
25 
20 
10 
40 
20 
20 

1.50 

10 

5 

120 
25 
25 
50 
1 
25 

80 

25 

.30 

100 

25 

20 

75 

100 

210 

170 

50 

25 

Jeaiiiiotte 

Orleans  F.  and  G.  Club.. 
W.  n.  I'arker 

Mi(*ta8i^ini 

9 

Islands  of  (iraiid  Discharire 

B.  A.  Scott 

Metabetchoiian  (lower  part). . . 
Grand  and  Little  Peribonka  . . 

E.  Wurtele 

H.  J.  Beenier 

Mistassiui  (Lake  St.  John) 

Islands  of  Lake  Saint  John. . . 

J.  P.  Mullarky 

H.  J.  Beeuier 

Natashauan 

Chas.  H.  Butler 

Des  Envies 

Arthur  D.  Ritchie 

VV.  II.  Parker  *        

Shaweniifan  (nart^ 

47 

Riviere  clii  Loup 

Col.  Fhiley  Anderson  . . . 
F.  M.  Kyclert 

No  fishing 

Bostonnais 

36 

Godbout     .         

W.  H.  Parker 

No  Ashing 

Aux  Ecorces 

Upikauba  F.  &  G.  Club. 

Press  Fishing  Club 

Geo.  R.  Mosle. 

SCO 

Aux  Rats, 

Croche  and  trib 

No  fishing 

'  1*666 

60 

lUvidre  aux  Troix  Bras 

Samuel     E.     St.     Onge 

Chapleau 

John  Brown 

Little  Sheldrake 

Ouiatchouan  (part) 

Etamaniiou 

A.  J.  Turcotte.  M.  P.$.. 
Alex.  A.  Fraser 

Riviere  du  Milieu  and  trib. . . 

St,  Maurice  P.  &  G.  Club 

(iedeon  Gagnon 

Alex.  Fraser 

Manitou  (part)  north  shore  . . . 
Ke&;ashka 

Musquarro 

ii,        bb 

Wasnecootal 

It         ii 

Olomonasheeboo 

bfc                 64 

Coacoachoo  

tl                 11, 

Archibald  Laurie 

Laval 

6 

4 

*  Transferred  to  Dr.  G.  S.  Huntington.  t  Transferred  to  Dr.  G.  L.  Porter- 

t  Transferred  to  the  Ouiatchouan  Club. 

South  Shore. 


Nonvelle 

Mann  Creek 

Little  Cascapedia. 


Restigouche  (first  part) 

Restigouche  (second  part) 
Restigouche  (fourth  part). 

Restigouche  (fifth  part) 

Little  Pabos 

Spider  &  Arnold 


Bonaventure 

Grand  Pabos  (Br.  N.  &  S.)  . . . 

Ste.  Anne  des  Mcmts 

Dartmouth 

Grand  Cascapedia 

York 

St.  Jean  (Gaspe) 

Cap  Chat 

Matapedia,  Huinqui,  etc 

Grand  River 

Skimenac  (township  Angers) . 


Benj.  Wey 

Pierre  Cyr 

Little  Cascapedia  F.  & 

G.  Club 

Dr.  F.  W.  Campbell 

" Restigouche  S.  Club". 

John  Robinson 

Samuel  Davis 

Louis  Cabot 

The  Megantic  F.  &  G. 

Club,  P.  Q 

W.  II.  Thome 

Henry  Ilogan 


Stephens  W.White 

H.  W.  DeForest 

Thos.  Murdoch 

J.  Fottlcr,  jr 

H.  F.  McLachlin 

Restigouche  Sal  mon  Club 

L.  Z.  Joncas 

Thomas  Murphy 


$105 
5 


2.55 
200 
230 
101 
5 
410 

100 

1,2.50 

80 

2.50 

.505 

6,125 

.5.50 

600 

50 

.520 

100 

100 


12 


No  fishing 


i       77 
I      126 
10 
I  3 

No  fishing 
No  fishing 


I 

i 


316 


APPENDIX   FOR   SPORTSMEN. 


The  following  list  gives  approximately  the  present  lessees  of  New 
Brunswick  waters,  although  some  changes  have  not  been  reported : 

Restigouche  River :  From  mouth  of  Upsalquitch  to  Toad  Brook,  H. 
B.  Hollins,  of  New  York ;  from  Toad  Brook  to  Tom's  Brook,  Samuel 
Thome,  of  New  York ;  from  Tom's  Brook  to  Tatapedia  River,  Laines 
M.  Watcrbury,  of  New  York ;  from  Tatapedia  to  Tracey's  Brook,  Res- 
tigouche Salmon  Club,  of  New  York ;  from  Tracey's  Brook  to  Qua- 
tawamkodgwick,  Archibald  Rogers,  Hyde  Park,  New  York ;  from  I.  C. 
R.  R.  Bridge  to  mouth  of  Upsalquitch,  Restigouche  Salmon  Club,  New 
York  ;  from  below  I.  C.  R.  R.  Bridge  to  Flatlands,  Micraac  Salmon  Club ; 
below  Flatlands,  held  by  local  lessees. 

Jacquet  River,  Samuel  Street,  of  New  York. 

Upsalquitch :  From  mouth  to  Forks,  Ezra  C.  Fitch,  of  Waltham, 
Mass. ;  remainder  of  stream  and  branches,  Ezra  C.  Fitch,  of  Waltham, 
Mass. 

Nepisiguit :  From  mouth  to  Indian  Reserve,  C.  B.  Burnham,  St.  Louis, 
Mo. ;  from  Indian  Reserve  to  Great  Falls,  C.  B.  Burnham,  St.  Louis,  Mo. ; 
from  Great  Falls  to  head  of  river,  C.  B.  Burnham,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

Miramichi :  Northwest  and  branches  above  Big  Sevogle,  R.  R,  Call, 
Newcastle,  N.  B. 

Pokemouche  River  and  branches,  K.  F.  Burns,  Bathurst,  N.  B. 

Big  Tracadie  and  branches,  Edward  Jack,  Fredericton,  N.  B. 

Renous  and  Dungarvan,  M.  Tenuant,  Fredericton,  Dungarvan  Fish- 
ing Club. 

Green  River,  The  Tobique  Salmon  Club,  W.  T.  Whitehead,  Fred- 
ericton. 

Tocologan  (Charlotte),  James  H.  Ganong,  St.  Stephen. 

Kedron  stream  and  lakes  (Charlotte),  E.  H.  Bradshaw,  Boston. 

Clear  Lake  (St.  John),  James  F.  Hamilton,  St.  John. 

South  Ocomocto  Lake,  W.  H.  Barnaby,  St.  John. 

Tobique  and  branches.  The  Tobique  Salmon  Club. 

Cain's  River  and  branches,  A.  S.  Murray,  Fredericton. 

Tabusintac  River,  Thomas  R.  Jones. 

THE  LAKE  ST.  JOHN  COUNTRY. 

The  management  of  the  Hotel  Roberval  at  Lake  St.  John  controls 
considerable  ouananiche  fishing,  which  is  open  to  guests  of  the  hotel. 
This  fishing  is  at  its  best  in  June  and  early  July,  although  there  is  a 
renewal  of  activity  in  September.    The  late  July  and  August  fishing  is 


APPENDIX   FOR   SPORTSMEN. 


317 


Call, 


characterized  by  more  than  the  proverbial  uncertainty  of  piscatorial 
pursuit&j  but  there  is  always  trout-fishing  as  a  compensation.  The 
following  is  a  list  of  fishing-clubs  along  the  line  of  th'}  Quebec  and 
Lake  St.  John  Railway : 


Little  Saguenay. 

Talbot  (open  on  payment  of  a  fee). 

Laurentides. 

Tardival. 

Stadacona. 

A.  L.  Light,  Large  Lake  Batiscan. 

Tourilli. 

Peun. 


Metabetchouan. 

Paradise  Fin  and  Feather. 

Lake  Quaquakamaksis. 

Springfield  Club. 

Riviere  Noire. 

Lac  au  Lare. 

Amabelish. 


All  these  clubs  are  of  comparatively  recent  formation.  On  return- 
ing from  the  Lake  St.  John  country  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  sportsman 
will  find  that  practically  all  the  salmon  and  trout  rivers  flowing  into 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  those  in  the  Quebec  peninsula  known  as  Gaspesia, 
are  held  by  lessees.  In  some  cases  arrangements  can  be  made  for  a 
few  days  of  fishing.  It  is  always  best  to  make  careful  inquiries  in  ad- 
vance, for  the  sportsman  must  abandon  the  idea  that  he  can  fish  for 
salmon  wherever  the  spirit  moves  him.  Trout-fishing,  however,  is  easily 
obtainable,  as  a  rule.  As  regards  hunting  and  fishing  licenses  from 
the  Government  for  strangers,  experience  seems  to  indicate  that  they 
are  rarely  insisted  upon,  at  least  in  the  case  of  the  fisherman. 


Close  Seasons. 

The  close  seasons  for  fish  and  game,  in  the  provinces  traversed  in 
this  hand-book,  are  as  follows : 

PROVINCE  OF  ONTARIO. 

Shooting. — Moose,  caribou,  elk,  and  reindeer  protected  entirely 
until  October,  1900.  ...  No  deer  shall  be  hunted,  taken,  or  killed  be- 
tween November  15  and  November  1  following.  .  .  .  Beaver  and  otter 
cannot  be  killed  before  November  1,  1900.  .  .  .  Quail  and  wild  tur- 
keys, December  15  to  September  15.  Turkeys  cannot  be  killed  before 
October  15,  1900.  .  .  .  Groufe,  pheasants,  woodcock,  golden  plover, 
prairie  fowl,  partridge,  snipe,  rail,  hare,  December  15  to  September  16 
following.  .  .  .  Swans  and  geese.  May  1  to  September  15.  .  .  .  Ducks 
of  all  kinds  and  other  waterfowl,  December  15  to  September  1.    No 


318 


APPENDIX   FOR   8POET8MEN. 


person  shall  shoot  between  sunset  and  sunrise.  Cotton-tail  rabbits  may 
be  shot  at  all  times. 

No  person  can  kill  deer  in  Ontario  except  he  hold  a  license  from 
the  Provincial  Secretary.  No  person  shall  kill  more  than  two  deer, 
and  deer  are  not  to  be  hunted  or  killed  in  the  water. 

No  person  shall  kill  or  take  any  moose,  elk,  reindeer,  caribou,  deer, 
partridge,  or  quail,  for  the  purpose  of  exporting  the  same  out  of  On- 
tar'.r  No  person  shall  sell  or  barter  any  quail,  wild  turkey,  snipe,  wood- 
cock, or  partridge,  no  matter  where  procured,  before  September  15, 1900. 

Fishing. — Close  season. — Salmon,  trout,  and  whitefish  between  No- 
vember ]  and  30.  .  .  .  Speckled  trout,  brook  trout,  river  trout,  from 
September  15  to  May  1.  .  .  .  Bass,  from  April  15  to  June  16.  .  .  . 
Maskinonge,  from  April  15  to  June  15.  .  .  .  Pickerel,  April  16  to  May 
15.  No  person  shall  kill  more  than  fifty  speckled  or  brook  trout  in 
one  day,  or  more  than  aggregates  in  weight  15  pounds,  or  any  trout 
less  than  five  inches  in  length.  Smaller  ones  to  be  returned  to  the 
water.  Not  more  than  one  dozen  bass  to  be  killed  in  one  day,  or  any 
less  than  ten  inches  long. 


to  October  1.  .  .  . 
Fee  for  non-residents 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 

Shooting. — Deer  and  moose  from  January  1 
Caribou  from  February  1  to  September  1.  . 
of  the  province,  $25. 

N.  B. — The  hunting  of  moose,  caribou,  or  deei*,  with  dogs  or  by 
means  of  snares,  traps,  etc.,  is  prohibited ;  but  red  deer  may  be  hunted 
with  dogs  in  the  counties  of  Ottawa  and  Pontiac  from  October  20  to 
November  1  of  each  year.  No  person  (white  man  or  Indian)  has  a 
right,  during  one  season's  hunting,  to  kill  or  take  alive — unless  he  has 
previously  obtained  a  permit  from  the  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands 
for  that  purpose — more  than  two  moose,  two  caribou,  and  three  deer. 
After  the  first  ten  days  of  the  close  season,  all  railways  and  steamboat 
companies  and  public  carriers  are  forbidden  to  carry  the  whole  or  any 
part  (except  the  skin)  of  any  moose,  caribou,  or  deer,  without  being 
authorized  thereto  by  the  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands. 

Beaver,  mink,  otter,  marten,  pekan,  from  April  1  to  November  1. 
.  .  .  Hare,  from  February  1  to  November  1.  .  .  .  Muskrat,  from  May 
1  to  April  1  following.  .  .  .  Woodcock  and  snipe,  from  February  1  to 
September  1.  .  .  .  Partridge  of  any  kind,  February  1  to  September  16. 
.  .  .  Black  duck,  teal,  wild  duck  of  any  kind  (except  sheldrake,  loo, 


APPENDIX   FOR    SPORTSMEN. 


319 


and  gull),  from  May  1  to  ScptMiiber  1.  .  .  .  (And  at  any  time  of  the 
year,  between  one  hour  after  sunset  «nd  one  hour  before  sunrise,  it  is 
also  forbidden  to  keep  exposed  d  .  ..ig  such  prohibited  hours,  lures  or 
decoys,  etc.).  .  .  .  Insectivorous  birds,  etc.,  protected  between  March  1 
and  September  1.  .  .  .  It  is  unlawful  to  take  nests  or  eggs  at  any  time. 

N.  B. — Fine  of  f  2  to  $100,  or  imprisonment  in  default  of  payment. 
(No  one  who  is  not  domiciled  in  the  Province  of  Quebec  can  at  any 
time  hunt  in  this  province  without  having  previously  obtained  a  license 
to  that  etfect  from  the  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands.  Such  permit  is 
not  transferable.) 

Fishing. — Salmon  (fly-fishing),  from  August  15  to  February  1.  .  .  . 
Speckled  trout  {Salmo  fontinath),  from  October  1  to  May  1.  .  .  . 
Ouananiche,  September  15  to  December  1.  .  .  .  Large  gray  trout,  lake 
trout,  from  October  15  to  December  1.  .  .  .  Pickerel  {dore\  April  16 
to  May  15.  .  .  .  Bass,  April  15  to  June  15.  .  .  .  Maskinonge,  May  25 
to  July  1.  .  .  .  Whitefish,  from  November  10  to  December  1. 

No  person  who  is  not  domiciled  in  the  Province  of  Quebec  can  at 
any  time  fish  in  the  lakes  or  rivers  of  this  province,  not  actually  under 
lease,  without  having  previously  obtained  a  license  to  that  effect  from 
the  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands.  Such  licenses  are  only  valid  for 
the  time,  place,  and  persons  therein  indicated. 


PROVINCE  OF  NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Shooting. — Moose  and  caribou,  from  January  15  to  September  15. 
Cow  moose  protected  for  two  years.  ...  No  person  shall  kill  or  take 
more  than  two  moose  and  two  caribou  during  any  one  year.  ...  No 
hunting  of  moose  or  caribou  with  dogs  allowed.  .  .  .  Deer  or  American 
elk  protected  until  October,  1904,  .  .  .  Hare  or  rabbit,  from  February 
1  to  October  1.  Newfoundland  hare  and  jack-rabbit  prohibited.  .  .  . 
Mink,  from  March  1  to  November  1.  .  .  .  Otter  protected  until  May  1, 
ISOY,  and  beaver  until  November  1,  1900.  .  .  .  RufFed  grouse  or  par- 
tridge, December  1  to  September  15.  .  .  .  Woodcock,  snipe,  and  teal, 
from  March  1  to  September  1,  save  in  Cape  Breton,  where  close  season 
is  from  March  1  to  August  20.  .  .  .  Blue-winged  duck,  April  1  to 
September  15.  .  .  .  Pheasant,  blackcock,  capercailzie,  ptarmigan, 
sharp-tailed  grouse,  spruce  partridge  or  checker  partridge,  and  insectiv- 
orous birds  protected  at  all  times.  .  .  .  Non-residents  of  Nova  Scotia 
must  take  out  license  to  shoot  in  the  province,  obtainable  from  the 
Provincial  Secretary,  or  parties  possessing  needful  authority. 


320 


Al'I'KNDIX    FOR   HI'OUTHMICN. 


FisiiiNO. — Rnlnion,  fnmi  An^iiHt  IB  to  February  1,  with  fly.  . 
Trout  of  all  kliidrt,  laiullorkcd  Hiiltuon,  from  Ootobcr  1  to  March  31. 


PUOVINCK  OF  NKW   nHlINHWU!K. 

SnooTiNO. — MooHC,  caribou,  deer,  or  red  <leor,  fioin  Docoinber  '>i\  to 
September  IB.  .  .  .  Cow  inooHe  arc  protected  at  all  tiiiiea.  .  .  .  Fee 
for  non-rcsidentrt  of  the  province,  JJ^'iO.  No  person  shall  kill  or  take 
more  than  two  moowe,  three  caribou,  or  three  deer  or  red  deer,  during 
any  one  year ;  and  no  party  of  three  or  more  nhall  kill  more  than  one 
moose,  two  caiibou,  or  two  deer  for  each  member,  exclusive  of  guides. 
.  .  .  Heaver  and  otter  protected  until  iMarch  2(>,  lHt>9.  Mink,  sable, 
and  fisher.  May  1  to  September  I.  .  .  .  (Jrouse,  partridge,  woodcock, 
or  snijie,  December  1  to  September  20.  .  .  .  Mlack  duck,  wood  duck, 
and  teal,  or  any  other  kind  of  wild  duck.  May  16  to  September  1,  and 
in  certain  counties  Janiuiry  1  to  Septemlter  1.  .  .  .  Other  ducks,  brant, 
geese,  and  other  waterfowl  shall  not  be  hunted  with  artificial  light,  nor 
with  swivel  or  punt  guns,  nor  trapped  or  netted  at  any  time.  .  .  .  Sea- 
gulls are  protected  in  the  parish  of  (irand  Manan  at  ail  seasons;  song- 
birds and  insectivorous  birds  entirely  protected. 

No  non-resident  shall  be  allowed  to  kill  or  purstie  with  intent  to 
kill  any  moose  or  caribou  at  any  time  of  the  year  without  having  first 
obtained  a  license  for  the  purpose,  which  may  be  obtained  from  the 
Provincial  Secretary,  Fredericton,  N.  H.,  or  from  the  Chief  of  (Jame 
Commissioners,  St.  John,  N.  B.,  by  payment  of  a  fee  of  !j<2(),  license  to 
be  in  force  for  one  year. 

Fishing. — Salmon  (net-fishing),  August  15  to  March  1.  .  .  .  Salm- 
on (angling),  August  16  to  February  1.  .  .  .  All  kinds  of  trout,  Octo- 
ber 1  to  March  31.  The  use  of  explosives  or  poisonous  substances  for 
killing  fish  is  illegal.  Streams  leased  to  individuals  or  clubs  cannot 
be  fished  by  the  public. 

PROVINCE  OF  MANITOBA. 

Shooting. — None  of  the  following  animals  and  birds  shall  be  shot 
at,  hunted,  trapped,  taken,  or  killed  on  any  Sunday,  or  between  the 
dates  named  in  any  year,  nor  shall  any  common  carrier  carry  them,  in 
whole  or  in  part  (except  the  skin),  within  the  said  periods. 

All  kinds  of  deer,  including  antelope,  elk,  or  wapiti,  moose,  rein- 
deer, or  caribou,  or  their  fawns,  protected  for  two  years  from  October 
15,  1896.  .  .  .  The  grouse  known  us  prairie  chickens  and  partridges, 
between  December  1  and  September  18.  .  .  .  Woodcock,  plover,  snipe, 


APPENDIX   FOR   KPOKTHMKN. 


321 


)e  shot 
ben  the 


lem,  in 


and  snndpipei-H,  between  Jununry  1  und  AuguHt  1.  ...  All  kinds  of 
wihl  duck, sea diK'k,  widgeon,  teal, between  Miiy  1  and. Septenilicr  1.  .  .  . 
Quail,  pheasantH,  and  wild  turkey  protected  until  April  1,  1896.  .  .  . 
Otter,  fisher  or  pekan,  beaver,  and  sable,  between  May  16  and  October 
1.  .  .  .  Muskrat,  between  May  15  and  November  1  following.  .  .  . 
Marten,  between  April  15  and  November  1. 

No  birds  or  animals,  excepting  fur-bearing  animals,  shall  be  trapped, 
nor  shall  any  swivel  guns,  batteries,  or  night-lights  be  used  to  kill 
swans,  geese,  or  ducks ;  nor  shall  any  beaver  or  muskrat  houHe  be  de- 
stroyed at  any  time;  nor  shall  poison  or  poisonous  bait  be  exposed  for 
any  animal  or  bird. 

No  eggs  of  the  birds  mentioned  may  at  any  time  be  taken  or  had  in 
possession.  This  act  does  not  apply  to  Indians  on  their  reserves.  No 
person  or  corporati<m  shall  at  any  time  export  any  of  the  animals  or 
birds  mentioned.  Persons  without  a  domicile  in  the  province  must  take 
out  a  license,  costing  .'JSO,  to  kill  any  of  the  animals  or  birds  named. 

Fishing. — Whitefish,  tullibee,  salmon,  or  lake  trout  may  not  be 
caught,  bought,  sold,  or  had  in  possession  between  October  5  and  De- 
cember 15;  pickerel,  pike,  gold-eyes,  mullets,  April  16  and  May  16; 
sturgeon.  May  16  and  June  15  ;  speckled  trout,  not  between  September 
15  and  May  1. 

NORTHWEST  TERRITORIES. 

Shooting. — Close  season  for  elk.  moose,  caribou,  deer,  antelope  or 
their  fawn,  mountain  sheep  or  goat,  from  February  1  to  October  1 ; 
limit,  six  head  in  any  one  season.  .  .  .  Grouse,  partridge,  pheasant, 
or  prairie  chicken  between  December  1 6  and  September  15 ;  limit,  twen- 
ty birds  in  any  one  day.  .  .  •  Any  kind  of  wild  duck,  from  May  1 5  to 
August  23.  .  .  .  Plover,  snipe,  and  sandpiper,  from  January  1  to 
August  1.  .  .  .  Mink,  fisher,  and  marten,  from  April  15  to  November 
1.  .  .  .  Otter  and  beaver,  from  May  15  to  October  1.  .  .  .  Muskrat, 
from  May  15  to  November  1.  .  .  .  Non-residents,  unless  a  guest  of  a 
resident  of  the  Territories,  require  a  license  to  hunt ;  fee,  $5. 

Fishing. — Speckled  trout,  from  September  15  to  May  1.  .  .  .  Pick- 
erel {dore),  from  April  15  to  May  15. 


|e,  rein- 

)ctober 

[.ridges, 

snipe, 


PROVINCE  OF  BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 
Shooting. — To  the  east  of  the  Cascade  Range — Blue  grouse,  ptar- 
migan, Franklin's  or  fool  hen,  and  meadow  lark,  from  November  16  to 
August  31.  .  .  .  Wild  duck  of  all  kinds,  bittern,  plover,  and  heron,  from 
31 


322 


APrFNDIX    F(Ui    Hl'OKTHMKN. 


jAiiunrv  1  to  August  31.  .  .  .  Prairie  hen,  prulrie  chicken,  and  willow 
and  rtiff  grouse  protected. 

Throughout  the  Province — Caribou,  deer,  wapiti  (commonly  known 
as  elk),  moose,  hare,  mountain  goat,  and  mountain  sheep,  from  January 
1  to  Septeujber  'AO. 

West  of  the  Cascades — Any  blue  grouse,  duck,  ptarmigan,  meadow 
larks,  or  deer,  fronj  January  2  to  August  20;  or  any  (luail,  willow 
grouse,  or  pheasants,  from  January  2  to  September  !J0, 

On  Vancouver  Island — Cock  pheasants,  from  January  2  to  Septem- 
ber 30. 

(f  ulls  are  protected  at  all  times.  Deer  caimot  be  hunted  with  dogs 
west  of  the  Cascade  Range. 

Fishing. — Speckled  trout,  from  October  15  to  March  16. 


THE   NET   HESULT 


villow 


li 


cnown 
inuary 

eadow 
willow 

eptem- 

,h  dogs 


INDEX 


Ahnntio  llartior,  '24^. 
Acii({lun.>4,  l'2x|iiilsion  or,254. 
Advociitf  lliirbor,  'JM. 
AtfiiHHix,  H()4. 
Aliinii<r<>i)nk(>>;t>t>k,  247. 
AllKirtriinon.  m). 
AlbiTt  Mliu'8,  l:U. 
AllMTtn,  'Jsil. 
Alborton.  I!t4 
Albion  MlnoH,  *20,5. 
Aldi'i-Hhott,  lift"*. 
Ali'xuiHlrla.  'iti7. 
A  lexiindria  Hay,  45. 
AI»;oina  Mills,  viTO. 
Alifonquin  I'ark.  269. 
Allaiulale  Junction,  :U. 
Alluinetto  Lake,  '26S. 
AInioDto,  '2*i8. 
Anuirican  cilvor,  3. 
Ainhfi-Ht,  1!>1. 
Anilierst  Island,  100. 
AinquI,  114. 
Andover,  154 
Annapolis,  '250. 
Annai)olis  River,  258. 
Anthracite.  '2s6.  '204. 
Antiironlsh,  '2(t5. 
Apohaniil,  134. 
Appendix  for  Sportsmen, 

818. 
Apple  Uivor,  251. 
Aruoise  Mountain,  24S. 
Arichut,  208. 
Aroostook  •) unction,  155. 
Arrow  Head,  800. 
Arrow  Lake,  800. 
Arthabaska,  SO. 
A»hbridj»e'8  Bay,  21. 
Ashcroft.  302. 
Ashuiipmouchouan,  100. 
Askwith  Station,  74. 
Assainetquaphan,  115. 
Assinibota,  270. 
Assiniboine  Kiver,  278. 
Athabasca  Landing,  2S7. 
Aurora,  81 . 
Austin,  278. 
Avalon,  228. 
Avonport.  252. 
Aylesford,  258. 
Aylesford  Lakes,  258. 
Aylmer,  267. 


Buddcck.  20!>. 
Hiiic  dt'H  Cliiileurs,  128. 
Balvonie,  2so. 
Ballv  Italy  Hoc,  281. 
Han  it'.  20O. 

Banff  Hot  Sprintfs,  200. 
Barnaliv  IJiver,  181. 
Barrl<',"21,8l. 
BarnnKtoii,  245. 
BasMino,  2rs«l. 
Bath  Island.  0. 
Bath  Station.  154. 
Bathurst,  127. 
Batiscan.  78,  0**. 
Baxter'H  Harbor,  25S. 
Bay  Bulls.  282. 

(lu  Vin.  l:itt. 

or  Despair.  280. 

of  Fundy.  251. 

of  Mands.  '284,  288. 

Koberts,  2-84. 

Ht.  -lohn.  238. 

Verd.  283. 
Beamsville,  IS. 
Bear  deck,  208. 
Bear  Uiver,  2(i0. 
Beaubair's  Island,  ISl. 
Beauniaris,  88. 
Beausdjour,  100 
Beaver  Bank,  248. 
Beaver  Dauis,  16. 
Beaverfoot        Mountains, 

206. 
Beavermouth.  207. 
Becancour  River,  SO. 
Bedford  Basin,  217. 
Bee  ton.  20. 
Belle  Isle.  238. 
Belleisle  Bay,  146. 
Bclleorein,  236. 
Belleville,  80. 
Berthier  Junction,  SI. 
Berwick,  258. 
Bett's  Cove,  284. 
Ble.llS. 

'•  Biddle's  Stairs,"  9. 
Big  Baddeck  River,  210. 
Big  Pie  River.  271. 
Big  Sevogle,  130. 
BigTancook.  241. 
"Hill  Johnson."  45. 
Birch-Bark  Canoe,  the,  161 
323 


niseotaf.ii)g,  270. 
Black  Cnnon.  818. 
Hloinidon.  251.  252.  256. 
Blue  Mountain,  2))0. 
Bolestown,  180. 
Bonaveiituru  Island, 

120. 
Bonavista.  288. 
Bontleld,  2*10. 
Bonne  Bay,  288. 
Bonide  I'astio,  45. 
Bloody  Brook.  260. 
Boston     or     New     York, 

round  trij)  from.  4. 
Bouchard  River.  103. 
Houchervllle.  75. 
Boulardirie  Island.  210. 
Bourgeau  Range,  200. 
Bowell,  2^5 
Bowinanville,  .89, 
Bow  Range.  201. 
Bow  River,  285. 
Bow  River  (Jap,  288. 
Braeebrldge,  38. 
Bradtbrd.  81. 
Brandon.  278. 
Bras  d'Or,  207. 
Brazil  Lake,  262. 
Bremmer,  271. 
Bildgetown,  258. 
Briclgewater,  242. 
Brigham  Junction,  72. 
BrlL'US,  282.  284. 
Britannia,  268. 
British  Columbia,  292. 
Broadview,  2S0. 
Brock,  Sir  Isaac,  14. 
Brock's  Monument,  14. 
Brockvllle,  45. 
Brome,  76. 

Brownville  Junction,  74. 
Bruce  Mines.  270. 
Buckingham,  266. 
Buctouche,  132. 
Burgeo,  •.;86. 
Burin.  235. 
Burin  Peninsula,  235. 
Burlington  Heach,  19. 
Burlington  Heights,  19. 
Burnt  Church.  130. 
Burnt  Islands,  286. 
Burton,  147. 


M 


324 


INDEX. 


Cache  Bay,  269. 
Gacouna,  106. 
Calais,  181. 

Caledonia  Springs,  267. 
Calgary,  287. 
Calumet,  266. 
Calvaire.  57. 
Campbell  River,  177. 
Campbellton,  125. 
Campobello,  184. 
Canaan  Kiver,  184. 
Canada,  1. 
Canadian  Alliance   Farm, 

280. 
Canadian  clothing,  8. 
Canadian  furs,  3. 
Canard,  256. 
Canmore.  286,  288. 
Canning,  256. 
Can  60.  247. 
Canterbury,  152. 
Cap  des  Hosiers,  117. 

Gribaune,  108. 

Labaie,  103. 

Maiilard,  1(<8. 

Kouge.  103. 

8t.  Ignace,  112. 

Tourmente.  108. 
Cape  Breton.  207. 

Brovle,  282. 

Chatte,  116. 

t;hignecto,  252. 

dOr,  251. 

Eternity,  110. 

Freels,  233. 

Gaspe.  117. 

George,  111. 

La  Have,  242. 

Magdflaine,  116. 

Race,  232. 

Ray,  236. 

Rosewny,  248. 

Sable,  244. 

Sable  Island,  244. 

Sharp.  252. 

Split,  252. 

Tormentibe,  192. 

Traverse,  192. 

Trinity,  110. 

Victoria,  111. 
Caraquet,  12S 
Carberry,  278. 
Caibonear,  23.'). 
Cariboo.  3(18. 
Caribou,  1.55. 
Ciirillon,  56. 
Carle  ton,  121. 
Carleton  Place,  268. 
Carleton  Junction,  37. 
Cartier,  -270. 
Cascade,  291. 
Cascade  Mountain,  289. 
"  Cascades,  the,"  47. 
Cascapedia  Bay,  121. 


Casciimpeque  Harbor,  194. 
Castle  .Mountain,  291. 
Castors  River,  288. 
Catalina,  283. 
Cataraqui.  the,  41. 
Cathedral  Mount,  295. 
C'aughnawaga.  48,  72. 
Causapscal,  114. 
Cave  of  the  Winds,  9. 
Cedar  Creek,  298. 
Cedar  Hall,  114. 
"  Cedars,  the,"  47. 
Chalk  River,  269. 
Chambly  Canal.  76. 
Chambord.  99. 
Chanicook  Mountain,  182. 
Champlain,  82. 
Channel.  286. 
Chapin's  Island,  9. 
Chapleau,  271. 
Chaplin,  288. 
Charlesbourg,  9."^. 
Charlo  River,  127. 
Charlottetown.  195. 
Chateau  Bigot,  96. 
Ch&teau    of    Montebello, 

56. 
Chateauguay,  47. 
Chater,  '.^78. 
Chiitham,  129. 
Chaudi^re  River,  79. 
Cheops  Mountain,  299. 
(-hester,  240. 
Chezzetcook,  246. 
Chicoutimi,  108. 
Chignecto    Ship   Railway, 

191. 
Chinook  Wind,  the,  285. 
Chippewa,  13. 
Chryslers  Farm,  46. 
Chute  au  Blondeau,  56. 
Cisco,  3(13. 

Clach-na-Coodin,  300. 
Clare,  262. 
Clementsport,  260. 
Climate,  2. 
Cloridorme,  117. 
Coburg,  89. 
Cochrane,  288. 
Columbia,  296. 
Comaudeau,  56. 
Conception  Hay,  231.  234, 
"Coote's  Paradise,"  20. 
Copper  Mountain,  291. 
Cornwall.  47. 
Cornwallis  Valley,  256. 
Coteau  du  Lac,  47. 
Coteau  Junction.  267. 
Couchiching  Lake.  31. 
Coutts.  284. 
Cow  Bay,  226. 
Craigellachie,  -301. 
Crane  Lake,  284. 
Croc  Harbor,  239. 


Crowfoot,  286. 

Crow's    Nest    Pass,   286, 

294.  ^ 

Currency,  2. 
Customs  officials,  8. 
Cy]ires8  Hills,  288. 

Dalhonsie,  126. 
Ualhousie  Junction,  126. 
Danville,  80. 
Dartmouth,  226. 
Dartmouth  Rfv<ir,  118. 
Dawson  City,  810. 
Dead  Islands,  236. 
Derby,  181. 
Deseronto,  40. 
D6tour  du  Lac,  161. 
Devil's  Lake.  2S9. 
Devil's  Head  Lake,  290. 
Digby,  261. 
DigbvGut,261. 
Digby  Neck,  262. 
Dogtooth  Mountains,  297. 
Dollard.  57. 
Donald,  297. 
Dorchester,  188. 
Doucet's  Landing,  78. 
Douglastown,  118, 129. 
Dryuoch.  3ii3. 
Duck  Lake,  281. 
Ducks.  302. 
Dundee,  47. 
Dungarvan,  180. 
Dunraore.  284. 

Eagle  Pass,  800. 

Eagle  River,  274,  302. 

"  Eastern    Passage,   the," 

220. 
Eastman's  Springs,  267. 
East  Selkirk.  274. 
Edmonton,  287. 
Edmunston,  160. 
Eel  River,  152. 
Eganville,  268. 
Elephantis.  78. 
Elkhorn.  279. 
Ellershouse,  248. 
Knfleld,  216. 
Escasoni.  209. 
Escuminac  River,  121. 
Esquimau  Harbour,  808. 
Exploits,  234. 
Exploits  River,  284. 

Fairholme         Mountains, 

288 
Fairy  River.  94. 
Falls,  Bridal  Veil,  83. 
ChaiidliNre,  50,  53. 
Grand,  156. 
Grand,  of  the  St.  Johnj 

156. 
Great,  284. 


H 


INDEX. 


325 


2S6, 


126. 


J90. 


J,  297. 


the," 
267. 


!1. 
808. 


Dtain», 


John» 


Falls  at  Indiantown,  142. 

Kakabeka,  278. 

Kananaskis,  2$S. 

Little  8hawene§ran,  S2. 

Loi-otte,  98. 

Montmorency.  98. 

Niagara,  5. 

Nictaux,  258. 

Pokiok.  152. 

Kideau,  51. 

Shawenegan,  81. 

Smith's,  «fi. 

Tuladi,  160 
Father  Point,  114. 
Ferryland.  232. 
Five  Islands,  216.  251. 
Florence  ville,  158. 
Flower  Cove,  238. 
"  Flying  Biuecose,"  248. 
Fogo,  283. 
Forres,  284. 
Fort  Covington,  47. 

Cumberland,  190. 

Edward,  248. 

Ellice,  280. 

Fairfield,  155. 

Lawrence,  190. 

QirAppelle,230. 

Kouille.  22. 

Selkirk,  809. 

William,  272. 
Fortune  Bay,  236. 
Fraser,  802. 
Fredericton,  148. 
Free  Port,  262. 
French  shore,  237. 

Gagetown.  146. 
Oaloups  Hapids,  46. 
Ganaiioque,  43. 
Gandtttsetlagon.  87. 
Gaspereaux,  253 
Gaspereaux,  valley  of  the, 

256. 
Gatineau  Kiver,  54.  266. 
Gay's  Kiver.  216. 
Ge'goggin  Kiver,  247. 
Georgetown.  197. 
GibraltMr  Point,  21. 
Gk'ichcn,  287. 
Glen  Robertson,  267. 
Glenora.  809. 
Goat  island,  6. 
Gold  Kiver.  240. 
Gold  Hangc,  300. 
Goidfn,  296. 
Gondola  Point.  185, 
"  Gore,  the,"  20. 
Goulfre.  I(i4. 
Grand  Banks,  232. 

Bay,  145. 

Cascapedia  River.  121. 

Falls  ofthe  Exploits,  284. 

Greve,  117. 


Grand  Harbor,  186. 

Lake,  184. 147. 

Manun,  185. 

Narrows,  209. 

Pabos,  120. 

Pond.  287. 

Pre,  258. 

River,  158. 
Grande  Dcchnrge,  100. 
Grande  "Vall6e,  117. 
Grandy's  Brook,  286. 
Granite  Notch,  82. 
Gravenhurst.  82. 
Great  Codroy  River,  287. 
"  Great       Divide,      the," 

292. 
Great  Glacier.  298. 
(Jreen  River.  159. 
Greenspond.  233. 
Greenville,  78. 
Grenville.  56. 
Griffin's  Cove,  117. 
Grimross  Island,  147. 
Grimsby  I'ark.  18. 
Grotto  Mountain,  288. 

Ha  Ha  Bay,  109. 
Hallliurton,  87. 
Halifax.  2 IS. 
Hall's  Harbor,  258. 
Hamilton.  IS. 
Hamilton  Sound,  238. 
Hamiota,  27S. 
Hampstead,  146. 
Hampton,  134. 
H antspoit,  252. 
Harbor  Briton,  236. 
Harbor  Grace,  235. 
Harlaka  Junction.  112. 
Haro  Archipelago,  307. 
Harrison  Springs.  304. 
Hiirtland,  153. 
Hawksbury,  267. 
"  Heart's  Content,"  288. 
Heatherton.  206. 
Hebron.  262. 
Hectitr.  295. 
Hermitage  Cove,  236. 
Heron  Bay,  271. 
Hillsboro,  134. 
Hillsborough  River,  195. 
Hole-in-the-Wall      Moun- 
tain, 291. 
Holland  Landing,  81. 
Holvrood.  234. 
Hope.  3114. 
Hopewell.  215. 
Horton  Landing,  253. 
Houlton.  181. 
Howe  Sound.  294. 
Hubbard's  Cove,  240. 
Hull,  267. 

number  River,  238. 
Hunter  River,  194. 


Ignace,  278.        ,'~f^'^ 
Ihonatiria.  oS. 
HIicilliwaet.  298,  299. 
"  Indian  Bazaars,"  8. 

Head,  280. 

T.orette.  98. 

River,  247. 
Indiantown,  142. 
Ingolf,  274. 
Isle  aux  Coudres,  104. 

d'Orleans,  92. 

Haute,  252. 

Madame.  208. 

of  Anticosti,  117. 

St.  Louis.  111. 
Isthmus  of  Chignecto,  189. 

Jackfish  Bay,  272. 
Jacques-Cartier  River,  79, 

98. 
Jacquet  River,  127. 
Jarvis  Inlet,  294. 
Jeannotte,  99. 
Jeddore.  247. 
Jemseg  River,  147. 
'•Joe  Batfs  Arm,"  234. 
Joliette  Junction.  81. 
Jordan,  18. 

Kah  weambete  wagamog,  32 
Kaministiquia  River,  272. 
Kamloops,  8J2. 
Kamloops  Lake,  293. 
Kamouraska  Islands,  113. 
Kananaskis.  288. 
Keewatin,  274. 
Keith,  2S8. 
Kemnay,  279. 
Kennebec  River.  73. 
Kennebecasis,  ISi. 
Kent,  1.54. 
Kentville,  257. 
Keswick  River,  153. 
Keswick,  Upper,  1.58. 
Kicking-Horse  (.Janon,  296. 
Kicking- Horse  Pass,  292. 
Kincorth,  284. 
Kingsport,  256. 
Kingston,  41,  146,  258. 
Kinonge,  the,  56. 
Klock.  269. 
Klondike,  310. 
"  Knights      Baronets     of 

Nova  Scotia,"  203. 
Kootenay,  292 

Labelle,  266. 
Lachevrotiere,  82. 
Lachinc.  48,  53. 
Laehute,  266. 
La  D6charge  du  Lac  St. 

Jean   lOU. 
Laggan,  292. 
La  Have  River,  242. 


326 


INDEX. 


Lake  Agnes,  29'2. 

Ainslie.  210. 

Blackstono,  84.       ' 

Crane,  84,  284. 

Kdwai'd. !)!). 

Oeoifft',  l.'>2. 

Joseph.  88. 

Kenoi^ami,  108. 

Kinogama.  271. 

Klppewa.  2t>!(. 

Kiskisink.  99. 

Louise,  2'J2. 

Metapcdia,  114. 

Moosehead,  78. 

Nipissinsr.  269. 

of  Two  Mountains,  67. 

of  the  Woods,  274. 

Onawa,  74, 

Rice.  8C),  89. 

Uossi'ati,  88. 

Kossif^nol.  242. 

St.  Francis,  47. 

8t.  John,  97,  99. 

St.  Joseph.  98. 

St.  Louis,  48. 

St.  Peter,  77. 

Sarpeant,  !>S.  H 

Sharbot.  8«. 

Sinicoe.  31. 

Sparrow,  82. 

Spider.  73. 

Superior,  271. 

Teniiscainingue,  269. 

Temiscouata,    113,    160, 
161. 

Utopia.  188. 
Lakes.  Chiputneticook,  74. 

in  the  Clouds,  292. 
Lancaster,  47. 
"Land    of    Evangeline," 

258. 
L'Ange  Gardien,  94. 
L'Ansetkl'Eau,  111. 
Langdon,  287. 
Lanaevin,  285. 
Lauoraie  Junction,  81. 
Larchwood,  270. 
La  Poile.  236. 
La  Tour's,  186. 
Laurentides      Fish      and 

Game  Club,  99. 
Lawrentetown,  258. 
Leanchoil,  296. 
Le  Braillard  de  la  Magde- 

laine,  116. 
Lefroy  Mountain,  292. 
Lc  Gouffre,  104 
Li'.'inox  Passage,  208. 
Lennoxville.  73. 
Lepreaux,  188. 
Les  ^boulenients,  104. 
Le  Tableau,  109. 
Lethbridge,  284. 
L6vi8,  80. 


Levis  Ferry,  112. 

Lewiston,  8. 

Lidvro,  the,  54. 

Lindsay,  87. 

L' Islet.  112. 

L' Islet  au  Massacre,  118. 

Little  Codroy  Klvor,  237. 

Little  Saguenny,  98. 

"  Little  »eldom-come-by," 

284. 
Little  Sev:gle,  180. 
Little  Tobique,  177. 
Liverpool,  248. 
Liverjjool  Bay,  242. 
Loch  Lomond.  135. 
Lockeport.  248. 
Logic  Bay.  281. 
Long  Island,  2o3. 
Long  Reach,  145. 
Longue  Pointe.  75. 
Longueuil.  '(5. 
Look-off,  the,  257. 
'•  Loi-d's  Day  Gale,"  198. 
Lorette,  82. 
L'Orignal,  56. 
Louistiurg.  212. 
Louisburg  Memorial,  215. 
Louisi'ville,  81. 
Lowelltown.  78. 
Lumsden,  281. 
Luna  Island,  9. 
Lundy's  Lane.  15. 
Lunenburg,  241. 
Lyster,  so. 
Lytton,  803. 

Mabou.  210. 
Macleod.  2"i7. 
Macleod  District,  286. 
Madawaska  River,  160. 
Maduxnakeag,  153. 
Magaguadavio,  187. 
Magauetiiwan,  33. 
Magdalen  Islands,  19S. 
Magog  Station,  78. 
Mahone  Bay,  240. 
Maitland,  216. 
Malagash,  241. 
Mai  Baie,  119. 
Malpeque,  194. 
Mameions,  101. 
Mamozekel,  177. 
Manicouagan      Peninsula, 

116. 
Manitoba.  275. 
Mantane,  116 
Maple  Creek,  284. 
Margaree  River,  210. 
Mars  Head,  240. 
Mars  Hill,  168. 
Marshy  Hope,  206. 
Marysville,  151. 
Mas'sawippi,  76. 
Mattawa,  269. 


Mattawamkeag.  74. 
Maugerville,  147. 
McAdam  Junction,  74, 181. 
McLean,  2S0. 
Medicine  Hat.  285. 
Megantic  Station,  78. 
Mcmphrcmiigog,  73. 
Memrameook,  188. 
Menagwes.  144. 
Menteith  Junction.  279. 
Merigomlsh.  205. 
Meiritton,  16. 
Metane  River,  114 
Metapedia,  115. 
Meteghan,  262. 
Metis,  114. 

Middle  River,  210,  247. 
Middleton,  '.'58. 
Migiiick,  99. 
Mill  Village,  242. 
Minas  Basin,  251. 
Miraniichi.  the,  130. 
Miramichi  Fire,  the  Great, 

181. 
Mirror  Lake,  292. 
Miscou,  128. 
Missanabii",  271. 
Mission  Junction,  805. 
Mission  Point.  125. 
Mississagas.  the,  38. 
Mistas-sini.  lOO. 
Moberlv.  297. 
Moira  iiiver,  36. 
Moncton,  182. 
Montagnais  Indians,  101. 
Montague  Ste.  Magdalaine, 

57.' 
Montague  Gold  Mines,  226. 
'•  Montgomery's   Tavern," 

24. 
Mont  Joli,  119. 
Montmagnv,  112. 
Montreal,  »il.  2('5. 
Montreal  Junction,  266. 
Moodyville.  307. 
Moon  River,  34. 
Moose  Jaw,  283. 
Moosomin,  280. 
Morse,  288. 
Moulin,  104. 
Mount  Aspotognn,  £40. 

Baker,  805. 

De  Ville,  295. 

Field,  295. 

Hector,  292. 

Hunter.  296. 

Inglismaidie,  290. 

King,  2i>5 

Macdonald.  298. 

MacKenzie,  3(M). 

Massive,  290. 

Peechee,  290. 

Stephen,  295. 

Stewart  Junction,  197. 


INDEX. 


327 


Mount  Theobald  Lake,  185. 

Tilly.  800. 

Uniacke,  248. 
Mountains  of  Ste.   Anne, 

119,211. 
Mouse  Mountain,  28U. 
Mulgravc,  2U6. 
Muniac,  164. 
Murlllo,  278. 
Murray  Bay,  105. 
Muskuka,  the  District,  80. 
MusquiiFh,  188. 
Musquodobuit,  247. 

Nackawic,  158. 

Nakusp,  804). 

Nanaiino,  294. 

Napanee,  40. 

Nashwaak,  148. 

Nasquapei'S.  IOC. 

Nauwidgewauk,  185. 

Navy  Island,  10. 

Nelson,  800. 

Nepigon  River,  272. 

Nopisiguit.  127. 

New  Biunswiek,  122. 

Nu..  r^r\if'.ii,  121. 

Nevr  .  ''i'lb'irgh.  62. 

Ne.'  >       il'    ass. 

New    *i.  ■'!>  V,  205. 

New    "  :.  ..ond,  121. 

New  Westminster,  294, 
805. 

Newark,  15. 

Newcastle,  89. 

Newcastle,  12S, 

Newfoundland,  227. 

Newmarket,  81. 

Newport,  120.  248. 

Newt.mville,  89. 

Nlngura-on-the-Lake,  13. 

Niagara  I'ark,  10. 

"Niagara,  the  Hermit  of," 
10. 

Niagara  to  Toronto,  18. 

Nicola,  294. 

Niconicn,  303. 

Nipissing  Junction,  269. 

North  Bay,  2<i9. 

North  Bend,  304. 

North  (^ape,  194. 

North  End.  142. 

North  .Toggins,  189. 

North  Mountain,  257. 

North  River,  247. 

Northwest  Mounted  Po- 
lice, 281. 

Norton.  184. 

Notre  Dame,  234. 

Notre  Dame  Mountains, 
116. 

Nouvelle  River,  121. 

Nova  Scotia,  200. 

Nun^s  Island,  49. 


Oak  Island,  241.        v 
Oak  Point,  146. 
Oakvllle,  20. 
Oka,  57. 

Okanagan  Lake,  801. 
Old  Ferolle,  288. 
Oldham  (}old  Mines,  217. 
Old  Wives'  Lakes,  288. 
Olympic  Mountains,  807. 
Onaping,  270. 
Orillia,  82. 
Orornocto,  148. 
Oshawa,  37. 
Otnabog.  146. 
Otonabee  River,  86. 
Ottawa,  49,  267. 
Ottawa  River.  87,  50. 
'•Ouananiche,"  100. 
Ovens  Head,  241. 
Owl'B  Head,  73. 

Painsec  Junction,  188. 
Pakenham,  268. 
Palliser,  296. 
Paradise,  258. 
Parrsboro,  2.'>1. 
Parrv  Sound,  84. 
Partridge  Island,  251. 
Paspebiac.  121. 
Pasqua.  28:}. 
Pass  of  the  Long  Sault,  the, 

Pedltcodiac  River,  182. 
Peel,  153. 
Pembroke,  268. 
Penetang.  33. 
Peninsula,  272. 
Penny's,  302. 
Penobscot.  74. 
Perco,  119. 
Perce  Rock.  119. 
Pereau,  2.^6. 
Peribonca,  100. 
Perth,  36.  154. 
Pcterboro.  36. 
Petit  Pabos.  120. 
Petitcodiac,  134. 
Petite  Decharge,  100. 
Petite  Rochelle,  125. 
Pheasant  Hills,  2S0. 
Pickering,  87. 
Pickwaakeet,  146. 
Picton,  39. 
Pictou,  2(t3. 
Pie  Island.  272. 
Pigeon  Mountain,  288. 
Pilot  Butte,  280. 
Pilot  Mountain,  291. 
Piziquid,  249. 
Placentia,  2.S5. 
Plains  of  Abraham,  92. 
Pleasant  Beach,  115. 
Pluie  de  Gu6iet8,  57. 
Point  a  Pique,  105. 


Point  Cre|>e,  111. 

du  Lac.  81. 

Maquereau,  120. 

Pleureuse,  116. 

Tupper,  208. 
Pointe-aux-Tremble«,    76, 
78. 

Bleue,  101. 

la  Bonle,  111. 

Platon.  77. 
Pollett  River,  184, 
Ponhook  Lakes.  248, 
Poplar  Point,  277, 
Port  Arthur.  272. 

au  Port.  238, 

Carling.  88. 

Daniel,  121. 

Hawkesbury,  208, 

Hood,  210. 

Hope,  89. 

Latour,  244. 

Medway,  242, 

Moody,  805. 

Mouton,  248, 

Royal.  259, 

Saunders,  288. 

Williams,  257, 
Portage  la  Prairie,  277. 
Portal,  283. 
Portnt'Uf,  82. 
Portugal  Cove,  281. 
Prescott.  4.'). 
Presque  Isle,  165. 
Prince  Albert,  2''8. 
Prince  Edward  Island,  102, 
Pubnlco,  245 
Pyramid  Harbor,  809, 

Quaco,  1?5. 
Qu'Appolle,  280. 
Qu'Appelle  River,  280, 
(iufbec.  City  of.  82. 
Quebec,  Province  of,  5!(, 
Queen    ('harlotto    iMland, 

293.  294. 
Queenston  Heights,  14, 
Quiddy  Viddy  Lake,  231. 
Quirpon,  238. 

Radnor.  288. 
Rainy  I^ke,  274, 
Rama,  82. 
Rat  Portage,  274. 
Regina,  2>1. 
Rentrew,  268. 
Renfrew  tlold  Mines,  217. 
Renous.  the,  130. 
Restlgoiiche,  the,  128, 
Revelstoke,  800, 
Richelieu.  75. 
Richibucto,  181. 
Richmond,  80, 
Rideau  Canal,  48. 
Rideau  River,  50. 


328 


INDEX. 


Bi^ud,  57. 
Kiley'8  Brook,  176. 
Rhnouski.  114. 
Kiver  Deny 9.  209. 
Riviere  h  la  Oraisse,  57. 
Eividro  du  Loup,  105. 
Kivl^re  du  8ud,  112. 
Riviere  Quelle,  112. 
Robbinstim,  184. 
Robson,  800. 
Rockingham,  217. 
Rockliffe,  269. 
Rocky  Luke,  217. 
Rocky  Mountain  Park,  289. 
Rogers's  Pass,  298. 
Rose  Blanche,  236. 
Ross  Peak,  299. 
Rosslund,  298,  800. 
Rossport,  272. 
Rothesay,  135. 
Rouffe  liiver.  66. 
Royalty  Junction,  195. 
Ruby  ("reek,  804. 
Rundle  Peak,  290. 
Rush  Lake,  283. 
Rustico,  194. 

Sable  Island.  201. 
8ackville,  188. 
feaguenay,  the,  107. 
St.  Agapit  de  Beaurivage, 

80. 
St.  Anaclet,  114. 
St.  Andrews,  182,  266. 
St.  Athanase,  ill. 
St.  Basil.  159. 
St.  Bonitace.  274. 
St.  Catharines,  17. 
St.  Charles  Junction,  112. 
St.  Croix  Island,  183. 
St.  Cioix  River,  74,  248. 
St.  Etienne  Bay,  111. 
St.  Eustache,  266. 
St.  Fabien,  113. 
St.  Francis.  160. 
St.  George,  187. 
St.  (ieorge's  Bay,  237. 
St.  Helen's  Island,  68. 
St.  Hilnire,  SO. 
St.  Hyacinthe,  80. 
St.  Ignace,  272. 
St.  Jenn  I'ort  Joli,  112. 
St.  Jerome,  99. 
St.  John,  135. 
St.  John,  Quebec,  77. 
St.  lohn  River,  142. 
St.  Johns,  228. 
St.  John's  Bay,  111. 
St.  Lawrence,  the  Rapids 

of  the.  46. 
St.  Leon,  78. 
St.  Leonard,  158. 
St.  Lin,  266. 
St.  Louis,  131. 


St.  Margaret's  Bay,  240. 

St.  Martins,  185. 

St.  Martin's  Junction,  81, 

286. 
Ht.  Mary's,  160,  285. 
St.  Mary's  River.  247. 
St.  Maurice  River,  78,  81. 
St.  Michaels,  309. 
St.  Michel,  112. 
St.  Paschal,  118. 
St.  Patrick's  Channel,  210. 
St.  Paul's  Bay,  108. 
St.  Peter's,  208. 
St.  Peters  Bay,  208. 
St.  Pierre,  198,  285. 
St.    Polycarpe    Junction, 

267. 
St.  Raymond.  98. 
St.  Stephen.  181. 
Ste.  Anne,  48. 
Ste.  Anne  <le  Beaui)r6,  95. 
Ste.  Anne  de  la  Perade,  78. 
Ste.  Anne  de  la  Pocati6re, 

112. 
Ste.  Anne  des  Monts,  116, 
Ste.  Flavie,  114. 
Ste.  Justine,  268. 
Ste.  Marguerite,  111. 
Ste.  Rose.  266. 
Ste.  Th6r6se.  266. 
Salisbury,  184. 
Salmonier,  285. 
Sambro  Ledges,  240. 
"  Sam  Slick,"  250. 
'•  Sandbanks."  40. 
San  don,  800. 
Saskatchewan,  282. 
Saskatoon,  281. 
Saul's  Peak,  302. 
Sault  h  la  Puce,  95. 
Sault  au  Cochon,  103. 
Sault  aux  Recollets,  266. 
Sault  Ste.  Marie,  270. 
Savonas.  802. 
Sawback  Range,  291. 
Sayabec,  114. 
Schoodic  Lakes,  182. 
Schreiber,  272. 
Secord,  Laura,  16. 
"  8eldom-come-by,"  284. 
Selkirk  Mountain,  297. 
Selkirk  Summit,  298. 
Severn,  the.  32. 
Shadow  River,  38. 
Shediac,  192 
Shelburne,  243. 
Shelby  Junction.  284. 
Shepody  Bay,  184. 
Sherbrooke.  73,  247. 
Ship  Harbor,  247. 
Shippegan,  128. 
Shul^enacadie  River,  216. 
Shuswap  Lake.  301. 
Sicamous  Junction,  801. 


Sidney.  211. 

Sidney  Mines,  211. 

Sidney,  North,  212. 

Silver  City.  291.  V 

Simpson's  Pass,  290. 

Sir  Donald,  297. 

Sissiboo  River,  262. 

Six-Mile  Creek,  297. 

Skead,  268. 

Skiff  Lake.  181. 

Slocan,  294,  800. 

Sorel,  75. 

Souris,  198. 

South   Thompson    River, 

801. 
Spallumsheen.  801. 
Spence's  Bridge,  308. 
Spencer's  Island,  252. 
Spillimichene   Mountains, 

296. 
Sportsman,  routes  for  the 

New  Brunswick,  160. 
Springhill.  251. 
Spruce  Lake,  188. 
Spuzzum,  804 
Squattook  River,  160. 
Squattooks.  the,  118. 
"  Squattook  trij),  the,"  160. 
Stair,  285. 
Stanfold,  80. 
Statue  Point,  109. 
Stellarton,  205. 
Stephen.  292. 
Storm  Mountain.  286. 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  288. 
Strait  of  Canso,  246. 
Strait    Shore   of  Avalon, 

281. 
Sturgeon  River,  270. 
Sudbury,  269. 
Suffleld,  285. 
Sugar-Loaf,  the,  125. 
Sulphur  Mountain,  290. 
Sumiiierside,  198. 
Summit  Lake,  800. 
Sunbeam  Farm,  280. 
Sussex,  184. 
Swift  Current,  284. 

Table  Rock.  11. 
Tadousac,  106. 
Tangier,  247. 
Tantramar  River,  188. 
Tatagouche  River,  127. 
Telford,  274. 
Terminal  City,  247. 
Terrapin  Tower,  10. 
Terrebonne,  81. 
Teslin.  809. 
Texada  Island,  294. 
Thetford,  73. 

Thousand  Islands,  the,  44. 
Thousand    Islands    Park, 
46. 


INDEX. 


329 


10. 


River, 

1)8. 
52. 
untains, 

for  the 
:k,  160. 


60. 

8. 

le,"  160. 


Three  Rivers,  78. 
Three  Sisters,  10,  288. 
Thunder  Cape,  272. 
Tignish,  194. 
Tilt  Cove,  2U. 
Tobique,  154. 
Tom  KedRewick,  128. 
Top.sail,  284. 
Torbay,  231. 
Toronto,  1,21. 
Touchwood  Hills,  280. 
Tracadie,  206. 
Tracadie  Harbor,  195. 
Tnicadiegash,  121. 
Tracy's  Lake,  135. 
Trail,  800. 
Trenton,  89. 
Trepassey.  235. 
Trinity,  283. 
Trois  Pistoles,  113. 
Trois  Saumons,  112. 
Truro,  215. 
Tuladi,  160. 
Tunnel  Mountain,  290. 
Tusket  Archipelago,  245. 
Tuque  Falls,  81. 
Tweed,  85. 
Twillinsrate,  234. 


Twin  Butte,  800. 
Valcartier,  98. 
Valleyfleld.  47. 
Vanceboro,  74. 
Vancouver,  806. 
Vancouver  Island,  298. 
Van  Home  Kanf^e,  295. 
Vankleek  Hill,  267. 
Varennes,  75. 
Vermilion  Lakes,  291. 
Vermilion  Pass,  291. 
Victoria,  807. 
Victoria  Bridge,  70. 
Virden.  279. 
Virginia  Water,  281. 

Wabigoon,  274. 
Wapta  Lake,  295. 
Wapta  River.  292. 
Washademoak,  146. 
Washago,  82. 
Watchabaktchkt,  209. 
Waterville,  258. 
Watt  Junction,  181. 
Waverly      Gold      Mines, 

217. 
Weed  Lake,  280. 
Welland  Canal,  17. 


West  Kootenay,  293. 
Weslfleld,  146. 
Westport  262. 
Weymouth,  262. 
Whirlpnol,the,  18. 
Whirlpool  Rapids,  12. 
Whitby,  87. 
White  Bay,  289. 
White  Kiver,  271. 
Whitemouth,  274. 
Whycocomaffh,  210. 
Wickham,  146. 
Wiimot  Spa  Springs,  258. 
Windemere,  271. 
"  Windmill,"  45. 
Wind  Mountains,  288. 
Windsor,  248. 
Windsor  Junction,  217. 
Winnipeg,  276. 
Wolfville,  256. 
Woodstock,  153. 
Woodstock,  Upper,  158. 

Yale,  804. 
Yamachlche,  81. 
Yamaska  River,  80. 
Yarmouth,  245. 
Yukon  Gold  Fields,  808. 


186. 
288. 
5. 
Avalon, 

0. 


:5. 
290. 


0. 


:88. 

127. 


the,  44. 
Park, 


88 


( j 


■■- 

-    '*■* 

> 

«  "' 

~ 

\ 

\ 

^  M 

,5-                   ' 

• 

V 


Grand  Trunk  Railway  System. 

The  advantages  offered  to  tourists  and  immigrants  by  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  System  and  its  connectiotis  are  numerous  and  indis- 
putable. No  transfers  and  few  changes  are  necessary,  no  matter  what 
part  of  the  continent  the  traveler  may  be  destined  for.  A  passenger 
may  have  his  baggage  checked  upon  landing  at  Quebec,  Halifax,  Port- 
land, Boston,  or  New  York,  and  rely  upon  its  arriving  as  addressed 
safely  and  on  time  without  trouble  or  cost. 

The  transatlantic  ocean  steamers  connecting  with  this  railway  arc 
fitted  up  with  all  tlii,  mo'  improvements  that  rrfi.cr.ica'  experience 
can  suggest.  An  •■jrien  surgeon  is  attache.'  '^  each  steamer. 
The  lines  running  to  Quebec  (in  summer),  Portland,  Halifax,  and  Bos- 
ton (in  winter)  have  the  shortest  and  best  routes  across  the  Atlantic, 
while  passengers  landing  at  New  York  travel  through  a  cbanuing 
country  by  way  of  Niagara  across  the  new  single-arch,  double-track 
steel  bridge  over  the  Niagara  River  to  Canada.  At  Portland  (Me.) 
and  Canadian  ports  passengers  and  bagnage  are  landed  on  the  wharves 
from  which  the  Grand  Trunk  trains  start. 

New  and  elegant  dining-cars,  built  with  all  recent  improvements,  ex- 
pressly for  this  line,  are  run  east  and  west  between  Niagara  Falls,  De- 
troit, and  Port  Huron,  for  the  accommodation  of  tourist  and  through 
passengers,  who  will  also  find  the  Pullman  and  Wagner  sleeping  and 
drawing-room  coaches  unsurpassed  by  anything  on  wheels. 


duebec  and  Lake  St.  John  Railway. 

The  new  route  to  the  far-1'amed  Saguenay.  The  eastern  extension 
of  this  railway  from  Lake  St.  John  to  Chicoutimi  is  a  very  important 
addition  to  the  system,  by  which  tourists  are  offered  a  round  trip, 
namely,  from  Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John,  and  thence  to  Chicoutimi  by 
rail,  and  down  the  Saguenay  by  daylight  and  back  to  Quebec  by  water, 
by  the  well-known  steamers  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Co.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  this  trip,  for  grandeur  of  scenery, 
is  unequaled  in  America. 

Passengers  leave  Quebec  at  8.40  a.  m.  daily,  except  Sunday,  arriv- 
ing at  Roberval,  Lake  St.  John  (190  miles),  at  4.55  p.  m.  The  trains 
run  to  the  door  of  the  magnificent  Hotel  Roberval,  equipped  with  lux- 
urious furniture,  hot  and  cold  water  baths,  electric  light,  and  every 
convenience  of  a  first-class  city  hotel.  Here  the  traveler  can  enjoy  an 
excellent  dinner  ;  and  if  he  does  not  desire  to  make  a  longer  stay,  he 
may  take  the  train  the  same  evening  for  Chicoutimi.,   The  run  to  that 


town  (64  miles)  will  be  made  in  two  liouM  and  a  h&lf,  over  a  well-ballast- 
ed road,  built  in  the  moat  substantial  manner,  and  thoroughly  equipped. 

Trains  run  to  the  steamboat  wharf  at  Chicoutimi,  connecting  tliere 
with  the  magnificent  Saguenay  steamers  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario 
Navigation  Co.  The  run  down  the  Saguenay  will  be  made  by  daylight, 
the  steamer  reaching  Riviere  du  Loup  at  about  five  in  the  afternoon, 
where  padsengers  may  either  drive  to  the  Cacouua  Hotel,  take  trains 
for  points  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  or  go  on  by  steamer  to  Murray 
Bay  and  Quebec. 

A  longer  stay  at  Roberval  is,  however,  advised.  In  addition  to  ex- 
cellent hotel  accommodation.  Lake  St.  John  and  the  country  surround- 
ing it  offer  innumerable  attractions. 

Passengers  preferring  to  return  to  Quebec  by  rail  may  leave  Chi- 
coutimi daily,  including  Sunday,  in  the  afternoon,  and  Roberval  daily, 
except  Saturday,  at  8.30  p.  m.,  arriving  at  Quebec  at  6  a.m.  daily,  ex- 
cept Sunday. 

The  attention  of  passengers  is  particularly  directed  to  the  beautiful 
scenery  of  the  Batiscan  Valley,  between  the  70th  and  86th  mile,  to  the 
approach  of  Lake  St.  John  at  the  1 7f>th  mile,  and  to  the  view  of  Chi- 
coutimi and  the  Saguenay  from  the  226th  to  the  228th  mile. 


Quebec  to  White  Mountains,  via  Quebec  Central  Railway. 

The  Quebec  Central  Railway  is  a  new  and  favorite  summer  tourist 
route  from  Quebec  to  all  White  Mountain  points.     Taking  the  day 
train  leaving  Levis,  the  traveler  has  from  the  train  a  magnificent  view 
of  Quebec  and  the  majestic  river  St.  Lawrence.    The  train  leaving 
Levis  follows  the  bank  of  the  river  for  several  miles,  and  the  Beauport 
slopes  and  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  in  view ;  presently  it  shoots  abreast 
of  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  whose  low  shores  with  their  expanse  of  farm- 
land and  their  groves  of  pine  and  oak  are  still  as  lovely  as  when  the 
wild  grapes  festooned  the  priaiitive  forests,  and  won  from  the  easy 
rapture  of  old  Cartier  the  name  of  "  Isle  Bacchus."    The  delight  which 
this  panoramic  view  affords  the  traveler  is  in  a  few  minutes  interrupted 
bv  the  arrival  of  the  train  at  Harlaka  Junction,  the  transfer  station 
with  the  Intercolonial  Railway ;  leaving  here,  glimpses  of  several  Cana- 
dian villages,  cottages  with  red-painted  roofs,  and  the  ever- recurring 
village  church  with  its  tin-covered  roof  and  spire,  engage  the  eye,  until 
the  valley  of  the  Chaudi6re  River  is  entered.    This  valley  is  noted  for 
its  gold  mines,  and  as  being  the  route  by  which  Benedict  Arnold 
reached  Quebec.   In  the  smiling  grain-laden  fields,  rich  meadows,  and 


ex- 


purrmg 
until 

bed  for 
Lrnold 
rs,  and 


pictureiique  slopes  of  this  sunny  region,  we  see  nothing  likely  to  recall 
the  daring,  hazardous  march  of  Arnold  on  bis  way  to  Quebec  a  hun- 
dred and  twenty-two  years  ago.  Proceeding  on,  we  arrive  at  Beauce 
Junction,  where  dinner  can  be  procured  at  the  restaurant  opposite  the 
station.  Bidding  farewell  to  the  Chaudi^re,  and  passing  Tring  Junc- 
tion (where  connection  is  made  for  Megantic  on  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway,  forming  the  new  Short  Line  to  the  Maritime  Provinces), 
Broughton,  and  Robertson  stations,  we  reach  the  famous  asbestos 
mines  at  Thetford,  which  to  the  naturalist  and  mineralogist  will  prove 
most  interesting. 

At  the  next  station,  Black  Lake,  which  name  is  derived  from  the 
beautiful  lake  lying  deep  among  the  hills,  hundreds  of  feet  below  the 
railway,  asbestos  has  also  been  found  in  large  quantities  and  of  the  best 
quality.  These  mines,  giving  employment  to  several  hundred  men,  are 
a  short  distance  up  the  mountain,  but  arc  visible  trom  the  passing 
train.  Tiie  region  ai)ounds  in  lakes  and  streams,  wild  and  romantic 
scenes,  boundless  forests,  and  rich  mines  of  asbestos,  iron,  marble, 
and  soapstone.     Gold  has  also  been  discovered  here. 

Garthby,  on  the  shore  of  Luke  Ajlmer,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sheets  of  water  in  this  part  of  Canada,  is  the  site  of  an  extensive  lum- 
bering establishment,  as  is  also  Lake  Wcedon,  the  next  station.  Pass- 
ing Wcedon  we  arrive  at  Marbleton;  the  chief  industry  of  this  place 
is  its  marble  quarries.  The  next  point  reached  is  Dudswell  Junction, 
where  the  trains  of  the  Quebec  Central  connect  with  those  of  the  Maine 
Central  Railway,  forming  the  new  and  most  direct  route  from  Quebec 
to  the  heart  ot  the  White  Moimtains  and  the  Maine  coast  via  the  Craw- 
ford Notch.  The  line  then  follows  the  shore  of  the  St.  Francis  River, 
and  at  this  point  the  farmhouses  and  their  dependent  buildings  are  sub- 
stantial. Still  farther  along  the  line  the  train  traverses  a  series  of  deep 
ravines,  where  little  creeks,  perchance  raging  torrents  in  their  season, 
lead  down  to  the  St.  Francis,  which  sparkles  and  eddies  far  below  as 
we  catch  glimpses  of  it  through  the  woods. 

Shortly  afterward  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Lennoxville  is  enjoyed.  Pro- 
ceeding, we  reach  Sherbrooke  in  fifteen  minutes,  where  connection  is 
made  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  for  Portland;  Boston  &  Maine 
Railroad  for  Newport,  Boston,  etc. ;  and  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
for  Montreal  and  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

Sherbrooke  is  an  incorporated  town,  the  capital  of  the  county  of 
Sherbrooke,  on  both  sides  of  the  river  .uar<^g,  and  on  the  Canadian 
Pacific,  Grand  Trunk,  Boston  &  Maine,  and  Quebec  Central  Railways, 
101  miles  east  of  Montreal. 


Steamboat!  on  Lake  Champlain. 

The  Htearner  Vermont  in  the  largest  of  the  fleet,  a.  iiia>;niflcent  Hide- 
wheel  boat,  two  hiiniircd  and  Beventy-ono  feet  long,  sixty-tive  feet 
wide  over  ali.  The  boat  in  elegantly  equipped,  and  has  fifty-six  Htate- 
rooms.  The  Vtrmont  riinH  «laily,  Sundays  excepted,  between  I'latts- 
burgh  and  Fort  Tifonderoga,toui'hing  at  Bluff  Point,  Port  Kent  (Ausa- 
ble  Cliasni),  Burlington,  Fort  St.  Frederic,  and  other  points  of  interest. 
Loaves  Plattsburgh  at  7  o'clock  a.  m.,  Burlington,  8.40  a.  m.,  reaching 
Fort  Ticonderoga  about  noon,  making  direct  railroad  connections  via 
Lake  (icorge  to  Saratoga,  Troy,  and  Albany,  also  to  the  south 
via  Whitehall.  Leaves  Fort  Ticonderoga,  going  north,  on  ariival  of 
trains,  l.'ifi  f.  m.,  Burlington,  6.20  p.  m.,  reaching  Plattsburgh  7.00  p.  m., 
connecting  with  train  for  Montreal. 

The  Vermont  has  an  excellent  steward's  department,  and  is  famed 
among  travelers  for  fine  dinners. 

The  steamer  Chairnngaji  is  a  fine  side-wheel  boat,  with  hull  of  steel, 
built  in  1888,  Is  two  hundred  and  five  feet  in  length,  has  two  boilers, 
patent  feathering  wheels,  is  heated  by  steam  in  the  cool  months,  and 
has  a  dining-room  on  the  tiiain  deck ;  is  handsomely  furnished  in  every 
detail.  Runs  during  July  and  August  between  Westport,  N.  Y.,  and 
North  Hero,  Vt.,  via  Burlington,  Port  Kent  (Ausable  Chasm),  Bluff 
Point,  Plattsburgh,  Grand  Isle,  and  the  Great  Back  Bay  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  Leaves  Westport,  Sundays  excepted,  7  a.  m.  ;  Cedar  Beach,  7.40 ; 
Essex,  7.50 ;  Burlington,  9.20 ;  Port  Kent,  10.00 ;  Bluff  Point,  10.30 ; 
Plattsburgh,  11.20,  touching  at  Gordon's  and  Adams's;  arrives  at 
North  Hero  12.40  p.  m.  Returnini.',  leaves  North  Hero  12.40,  touching 
as  above;  arrives  at  Westport  6.46  p.  m. 


Niagara  River  Line. 

A  trip  to  Niagara  Falls  is  not  complete  without  seeing  the  Niagara 
River  and  its  beauties.  The  noted  steel  steamers  of  the  Niagara  River 
Line  have  been  specially  constructed  of  the  highest  class  of  British 
de->ign  and  workmanship,  and  are  the  fastest  steamers  on  the  lakes, 
with  cabin  equipments  designed  here  and  adapted  to  the  modern  ideas 
of  this  continent. 

From  Toronto  the  steamers  cross  Lake  Ontario,  a  distance  of 
thirty-six  miles,  and  enter  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River.  The 
points  on  the  entrance  are  occupied  on  the  United  States  shore  by 
Fort  Niagara,  held  during  the  past  three  hundred  years  in  turn  by 


French,  British,  and  United  States  garrisons ;  on  the  Canadian  by  fiorl 
Missasauffa  and  Fort  George,  t»k;pn  and  retalcen  in  the  War  of  1812-'14. 

Nias;ara-on-the-Lal{e  is  a  favorite  summer  lalceside  resort  withsuni- 
mer  hotels,  and  now,  with  iti  many  summer  residences,  become  a 
suburb  of  Toronto.  Niagara  Falls  station  of  the  Michigan  Central 
Railway  is  in  the  Canadian  National  Park.  All  trains  stop  five  minutes 
at  Fall8  View,  where,  from  a  spacious  platform  just  above  the  Horse- 
shoe  Cataract,  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  Falls  is  obtained. 

After  making  the  first  landing  at  Niagara-on-tho  Lake,  the  steamers 
then  continue  for  seven  miles  farther  along  the  river.  The  Queenston 
Heights  tower  high  above  the  surrounding  table-land.  On  the  summit 
stands  out  the  grand  colunm  of  iirock's  monument,  erected  to  the 
memory  of  the  victorious  general  who  fell  at  the  battle  fought  here  in 
1812.  These  cliffs  form  the  place  where  the  Falls  once  were.  Through 
this  •'  Gorge  "  the  confined  waters  now  struggle. 

Lewiston  is  the  point  of  cotmection  for  the  American  side  of  the 
river,  and  change  is  made  to  the  trains  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids. 

The  New  York  Central  Railroad  has  extended  its  tracks,  and  the 
trains  pass  along  a  ledge  cut  in  the  side  of  the  cliff,  following  the 
windings  of  the  river,  and  giving  unexampled  views  of  the  whole 
length  of  the  rapids  and  the  weird  and  wonderful  scenery  of  the  oafion 
of  the  Niagara. 


Lake  St.  John  and  the  Saguenay. 

Who  has  not  heard  of  iha  furore  created  among  tourists  and  sports- 
men by  the  recent  opening  up  of  a  new  and  fascinating  route  to  the 
far-famed  Saguenay  River  in  northern  Canada  bj  way  of  Quebec  and 
Lake  St.  John  ?  One  of  the  most  romantic  round  trips  ever  planned 
for  a  summer  outing  consists  of  a  triangular  trail — if  we  may  be  par- 
doned the  paradox — from  Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John  by  a  railway  that 
crosses  the  Canadian  Adirondacks  for  190  miles;  from  Lake  St.  John 
to  Chicoutimi,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay,  by  the  last 
completed  link  of  this  railway,  and  back  to  Quebec  by  steamer  through 
the  deep  rift  cleft  in  the  massive  mountains  of  the  Saguenay  by  the  dark 
majestic  river  of  the  same  name  on  its  way  to  the  sea.  From  the  mouth 
of  the  Saguenay  at  Tadousac,  the  steamer's  route  to  Quebec,  in  its  ascent 
of  the  noble  St.  Lawrence,  lies  past  the  fashionable  Canadian  water- 
ing places  of  Cacouna,  Riviere  du  Loup,  and  Murray  Bay,  the  miracle- 
working  shrine  of  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne,  and  the  lovely  Isle  of  Orleans ; 
the  most  magnificent  view  obtainable  of  rock-girt,  citadel-crowned 


Qu«bec  being  that  to  be  had  from  the  deck  of  the  approaching  steamer. 
But  what  Hhall  we  »ay  of  the  ever-changing  panorama  of  precipitous 
mountains  towering  overhead,  of  yawning  chasms  deep  below,  of  the 
scores  of  fish-laden  lakes  and  the  miles  of  rapturous  river  rapids, 
which  unfolds  itself  to  the  tourist  as  the  train  follows  the  serpentina 
course  of  the  new  iron  road  that  invades  the  wilderness  home  of  the 
bear,  the  moose,  the  caribou,  the  beaver^  and  the  aboriginal  Montagnais 
Indian  y  This  Lake  St.  John  is  the  source  of  the  Sngutnay  and  the 
home  of  the  famous  ouananicho  or  frosh-water  salmon,  the  greatest 
game  tish  in  existence.  The  anglers  loudest  in  its  prnises  are  those 
who  have  crossed  the  Atlantic  or  come  from  the  Southern  Htntes  to 
give  it  tight  in  the  rapid  waters  of  the  great  lake's  discharge,  or  in  its 
mighty  tributaries,  some  of  which  are  over  a  mile  wide  at  their  mouths 
and  hundreds  of  miles  in  length.  Here  the  comfort  and  safety  of  the 
tourist  or  angler  arc  looked  after  by  the  Indian  guides  who  pitch  his 
tent,  cook  his  meals,  and  propel  him  with  rapid  yet  easy  gliding  motion 
over  seemingly  endless  water-ways,  in  the  birch-bark  canoes  of  which 
Longfellow  has  so  musically  sung  in  Hiawatha. 


ler. 

OU8 

the 
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CARDS  OF   LEADING  HOTELS. 


Bt  referring  to  the  advertising  pages  the  traveler  will  find  full  information 
of  many  of  the  leading  Hotels,  as  also  Bankers,  Railroads,  Steamboats,  etc. 


CANADA. 

THE  QUEEN'S. 
TonoNTo.  Celebratwl  for  ItH  home 
coinfortH,  perfect  quiet,  tjood  attendance, 
and  the  peculliir  excellence  of  Its  cuifiine. 
Delijihtfiilly  situated  near  the  bay  on  Front 
Strtet,  convenient  to  buHincHH  center,  rail- 
road depot,  HteaniboatH,  etc. 

MudAW  &  WiNNKTT,  Proprietors. 

AVENUE  HOUSE, 
Montreal.      17-23  McGill    CoUcro 
Avenue.    Central  location  ;    convenient  for 
buHinesM  or  pleuHurc.  American  plan.    $1.00 
to  $2.00  per  day. 

E.  S.  Reynoldb,  Manager. 

THE  QUEEN'S  ROYAL  HOTEL, 
NiAUARA,  ON   THE   LAKE,   ONT. 

hotel  and  Hunimer  rcKort  \r  located 


This 
in  a 

beautilul  grove  opponite  Fort  Niagara,  at 
the  licad  of  Lake  Ontario  and  tiie  mouth  of 
the  Niajiara  Uiv»!r.  It  is  capable  of  accom- 
modating three  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Ail  modern  improvement''. 

McOaw  &  WiNNETT,  Proprietors. 


NEW  YOBK. 

FIFTH  AVENUE  HOTEL, 
Madison  Square.    The  largest,  best 
appointed,   and   most   liberally   managed 
hotel  in  the  city,  with  the  most  central  and 
delightful  location. 

It  is  now  conducted  on  both  the  Ameri- 
can and  European  plans.  The  American 
plan  as  heretofore  without  chantre.  Tlie 
European  plan  so  as  to  meet  the  wishes  and 
convenience  of  those  who  j)ri'fer  it. 

Hitchcock.  Darling  &  Co. 

PARK  AVENUE  HOTEL. 
Absolutely     flre-proof.  European 

plan,  $1  per  day  and  upward  ;  American 
plan,  $3.50  per  day  and  upward.  Parle 
Avenue,  32d  and  3.3a  Streets.  Free  baggage 
to  and  from  Grand  Central  and  Long  Island 
Depots. 

Wm.  H.  Earle,  Proprietor, 

New  York. 


K  SW  TOBK. 

THE  NEW  HOFFMAN  HOUSE. 
Abeoiutely  flre-procf .  Fr' <rit8 on  Broad- 
way and  Madison  Square,  ei  toying  tlie  most 
delightful  and  important  .ocation  It  ihis 
city.  In  midst  of  the  great  shopnit.  .  md 
amusement  district.  The  manage/  et.i  feel 
tiiat  they  can  extend  to  l"'Mes  and  families 
all  the  conveniences  au'  ronforts  found 
elsewhere,  and  tiiat  in  a  its  liumerous  ap- 
pointments it  will  compare  favorably  with 
any  liotel  in  the  world. 

Special  attention  is  called  to  the  entire 
)>lumbing  system,  newly  constructed  accord- 
ing to  the  latest  sanitary  requirements. 

Turkish  and  Russian  Oaths  also  on  the 
premises. 

J.  P.  CAnnAQAN,  Manager. 

ST.  DENIS  HOTEL, 
Broadway  and  Eleventh  Street,  New 
York.  The  new  addition,  and  the  l)eautl- 
ful  Colonui  fining  Room,  have  made  this 
well-know;  nuse  more  popular  than  ever, 
and  In  appointmertp,  decorations,  and  mod- 
ern equipments  it  is  now,  par  excellence,  one 
of  th<  leading  hotels  of  the  metropolis. 

rnUE  THOUSAND  ISLAND  HOUSE, 
-*-     Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y..  thoroughly 
refurnished,  refitted,  new  pluml)ing.  and  in 
first-class  condition,  by  its  original  proprie- 
tor, who  built  the  house  in  lf73. 

Mr.  Staples  will  be  glad  to  see  his  old 
friends,  and  many  new  ones,  and  guaran- 
tees them  satisfactory  service. 
O.  G.  Staples, 

Owner  and  Proprietor. 


CARDS  OF  LEADING  /lOTELS.-iConthmed.) 


SABATOOA  SPRINGS,  K.  T. 

TTNITED  STATES  HOTEL. 
KJ  One  of  the  largCHt  hotels  in  the  world, 
917  rooms  for  gucBts  ;  line  of  buildings  over 
1,500  feet  long ;  six  stories  high  ;  covering 
and  inclosing  seven  acres  of  ground  ;  2;i8 
feet  on  Broadway :  G75  feet  frontage  on 
Division  Street.  The  eiiminer  residence  of 
the  most  reflniii  circles  of  American  fashion 
and  society.  Private  villas  of  any  size  in 
CoTTAOK  WiNo.  Open  June  to  October 
Ist.  Gage  &  Pehbt,  Proprietors. 

PITTSFIELD,  MASS. 

THE  MAPLE  WOOD. 
One  of  the  largest  hotels  in  the  Berk- 
Bhire  Hills. 
Open  June  to  November. 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

RIGGS  HOUSE, 
Washington,  D.  C.    Reopened  under 
new  management ;  refurnished  and  redeco- 
rated In  lirst-class  style  ;  table  the  beet  in 
the  city.     Kiuus  House  Co..  Proprietors. 
G.  DbWitt,  Treasurer. 


WEST  POINT,  N.  Y. 

WEST  POINT  HOTEL. 
Open  throughout  the  year.    Rates, 
$3.50  per  day.    The  only  hotel  on  the  post. 

Albert  H.  Cbanet. 


The  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel. 

When  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  was  completed  and  opened  to  the  public,  it 
must  have  been  a  marvel  to  the  people  who  first  beheld  it.  Thirty-six  years  is 
a  very  lengthy  period,  and  during  that  time  wonderful  changes  and  vast  improve- 
ments have  been  made  in  hotel  architecture  throughout  the  United  States.  One 
would  naturally  suppose  that  the  Fifth  Avenue  would  long  since  have  been  dis- 
tanced in  the  race.  The  contrary  is  true,  however.  Notwithstanding  the  lapse  of 
time,  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  remains  to-day  the  finest  hotel  structure  in  New 
York,  all  things  considered.  Not  one  hotel  in  New  York  can  compare  with  the 
Fifth  Avenue  in  arrangement,  size,  commodiousness,  and  number  of  its  public 
rooms.  The  parlors  on  the  second  floor,  fronting  on  Madison  Square,  the  corridor 
leading  to  the  grand  dining  room,  and  this  magnificent  apartment  itself,  are  to  day 
unsurpassed  by  any  New  York  hotel ;  while  the  sleeping  apartments  on  the  floors 
above,  as  well  as  the  halls  leading  to  them,  are  larger,  better  lighted  and  ventilated, 
and  aiTord  more  general  comfort  than  the  guest-rooms  of  any  other  New  York 
hotel  that  can  be  named.  When  one  remembers,  in  addition  to  the  facts  above 
enumerated,  that  this  great  hotel  is  to-day  under  the  same  proprietorship  and 
management  as  when  it  was  opened  thirty-six  years  ago,  who  will  deny  that  the 
Fifth  Avenue,  of  New  York,  is  still  the  most  famous  of  American  hotels,  and 
abundantly  deserves  the  praise  which  James  T.  Fields  once  recorded  as  having 
been  unanimously  bestowed  upon  it  by  a  party  of  veteran  travelers,  of  being  "  the 
best  hotel  in  the  world." 

Years  have  come  and  gone,  new  hotels  have  multiplied,  with  innovations  and 
features  introduced  to  affect  and  influence  patronage,  but  the  Fifth  Avenue  is  as 
new  and  fresh  as  the  most  recent  hotel  constructed,  with  more  liberal  accommo- 
dations than  any  of  thorn,  and  its  well-earned  reputation  as  the  leading  hotel  of 
the  world  is  more  and  more  assured. 


i 


i 


Elc 


$ 


T. 

Ort 


J.  H 


Quebec  Central  I(ailwai 


THE- 


tourist 
Route 


/ 


BETWEEN. 


Quebec  and  New  York^ 

Quebec  and  Portland^ 

Quebec  and  Boston* 


^fi^  9^^ 


THE- 


\ 


Elegant  Pullman  Parlor  Cars  on  day  trains,  and   Palace 
Sleeping  Cars  on  night  trains. 

From  NEW  YORK  and  points 

South  to  the  favorite  fishing  and 

hunting  resorts  in  the 

LAKE  ST.  JOHN  AND  LOWER 
ST.  LAWRENCE  REGIONS. 


Spommeti's 
Route 


Apply  for  tickets,  folders,  and  all  information,  to 
T.  COOK  &  SONS,  RAYMOND  WHITCOMB, 


261  Broadway,  New  York. 


Or  to- 


P.  R.  NEILL,  T.  P.  A., 

Room  74,  Union  Depot, 
Boston,  Mass. 


J.  H.  WALSH, 

Gen'l  Pass.  Agent, 

Sherbrooke,   P    Q. 


31  East  14th  Street,  New  York. 


R.  H.  STOCKINQ, 

City  and  District  Agent, 
Quebec. 

PRANK  GRUNDY, 

General  Manai^er, 

GherV  roolce,    P.  O. 


TO  THE  HIGHLANDS  OP  OUTARIO. 


THE 


GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY  SYSTEM 


Be^ 


WAi 


sTe>> 


Is  the  Popular  and  Favorite  Tourist  Route. 

From  NEW  YORK,  PHILADELPHIA, 

AND  EASTERN  CITIES.  ^ 

T''^  «<»•{;%,,  NIAGARA  FALLS  and  TORONTO, 

Or  by  way  of  MONTREAL,  KINGSTON,  etc. 

THE  numberless,  beautiful,  and  picturesque  lakes  of  the  MUSKOKA  REGION, 
REACHED  ONLY  BY  OUR  LINES,  teem  with  trout,  bass,  muscallonge,  and  other 
varieties  of  fish  ;  while  the  adjacent  forests  abound  in  partridge,  deer,  bear, 
and  fur-bearing  animals.  The  chain  of  lakes  known  as  Muskoka,  Rosseau,  and 
'oseph  are  navigated  by  the  well-appointed  steamers  of  the  Muskoka  Navigation 
Company,  which  give  a  good  double  daily  service  to  the  numerous  hotels,  clubs, 
and  private  residences— which  occupy  picturesque  positions  along  the  lake  shores 
and  on  the  numerous  islands.  Such  is  the  salubrity  of  this  favored  highland  coun- 
try that  it  is  fast  coming  into  prominence  as  a  sanitarium,  and  one  finds  here  as 
accessories  to  climate  all  the  comforts  of  the  city. 

To  the  northward,  and  reached  by  stage  and  rail  from  the  head  of  the  lake  by  the 
elegant  steamers  of  the  N.  W.  Transportation  Co.,  and  Great  Northern  Transit 
Co.  from  Midland,  Penetang,  Collingwood,  etc.,  lies  the  famous  Archipelago  of 
GEORGIA.N  BAY,  which  will  ever  claim  the  admiration  of  all  tourists. 

Whether  for  health,  pleasure,  or  sport,  this  magnificent  region  offers  superior 
inducements  on  account  of  its  easy  accessibility. 

Send  for  "  Muskoka — Land  of  Health  and  Pleasure,"  "A  Highland  Holiday," 
"  Muskoka  Folder,"  "  Fishing  and  Hunting  Resorts  reached  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  System,"  and  other  tourist  publications  relating  to  CANADIAN  SUMMER 
RESORTS.     For  information,  Time  Tables^  and  descriptive  literature,  call  on 

F.  P.   DWYER,  E.   P.  A., 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  SysUin,  3*3  Broadway,  New  York. 


CHAS.  M.  HAYS, 

General  Manager,  Montreal 


GEO.    B.   REEVE,  W.  E.   DAVIS, 

Oen.  Traffic  Manager,  Montreal.         Gen.  Pau.  &  Ticket  Agt,,  Montreal. 

GEO.  T.  BELL,  E.  H.  HUGHES, 

Awt.  Gen.  Pau.  &  Ticket  Agt.,  Muntreal.  Astt.  Gen.  Pass.  &  Ticket  Agt..  Chicago. 

General  Offices.  flONTREAL,  Qusbec. 


Before  deciding  on  the   locality  for  your 
Summer   Vacation 

i         You  will  find  it  to  your  interest  to  make  inquiries  about  the 

(jUEBEC  &  LAKE  ST.  JOHN  RAILWAY, 

The  New  Route  to  the  Faiyfamed  Sagnenay, 


*-  QUEBEC  &  UKE  ST  JOHN  RAILWAV. 

Ttaa  Mew  Roiiir  lu  the 
FAR-FAMED  SACUENAY. 


And  the  ONLY  RAIL  LINE  to  the  Dfliffht- 
ful  Summer  Resorts  and  Fishing  Groundn  jiorlh 
of  Quebec,  and  to  Lake  Bfe.  John  and 
Chicoutimi,  through  the 

CANADIAN  ADIRONDACKS. 

Trains  connect  at  Chicoutimi  with  Fajjuenay 
Steamers  for 

TADOUSAC, 

CACOUNA, 

MURRAY  BAY, 
and 

QUEBEC, 

A  round  trip  unequalled  in  America,  throujjh 
matchless  Forest,  Mountain,  River,  and  Lake 
Scenery,  down  the  majestic  Sa^'Uenay  by  day- 
light and  back  to  the  Fortress  City, 

Touching  at  all  the  Beautiful 
Seaside  Resorts 

on  the  Lowpr  St.  Lawrence,  witli  their  Chain 
of  Commodious  Hotels. 

Hotel  Roberval*  Lake  St,  John,  hax 
first-class  accommodation  for  yxi  GueHtH,  and 
is  run  in  connection  with  the  Island  Boute« 
at  Grand  Dischaxve*  of  Lake  St,  Jnhn, 
the  Centre  of  the  Ouananicbe  I  ihhing 
Grounds. 


PARLOR   AND   SLEEPING   CARS. 

MAGNIFICENT  SCENERY.      BEAUTIFUL  CLIMATE. 

Apply  to  the  Ticket  Agents  of  all  Principal  Cities. 

A  beautifully  illustrated  Guide-Book  free  on  application. 


ALEX.   HARDY, 

Gen.  Pass.  Agt.,  Quebec, 


J.  G.  SCOTT, 

Sec'y  and  Manager, 


Niagara  River  Line. 


u 


THE   SHORT  AND  PICTURESQUE   ROUTE   BETWEEN  \ 

NIAGARA  FALLS  ana  TORONTO,  the  "Queen  City  of  Canada." 

THE    STEEL   STEAMERS 

CHICORA,  CORONA,  and  CHIPPEWA 

Leave  LcwistOD)  at  foot  of  Niagara  rapids,  six  times  daily  (except  Sunday), 
on  arrival  of  New  York  Central  railway  trains  from  the  Falls  for  Toronto, 
giving  passengers  a  beautiful  sail  of  seven  miles  down  the  river  and  thirty-six 
across  Lake  Ontario. 

The  only  route  giving  views  of  the  Rapids,  Brock's  Monument, 
Qneenston  Heights^  Old  Niagara,  and  all  the  varied  scenery  of  the 
lower  Niagara  River.  Tourists  can  breakfast  at  the  FallSj  have  six  hours 
in  Toronto,  and  be  back  again  to  the  Falls  for  dinner. 

Tickets  at  all  offices  of  the  Yanderbilt  System  of  railways,  and  principal 

ticket  offices  at  Niagara  Falls. 

JOHN  FOY,  Manager. 

Muskoka  Navigation  Company 


THE 


l)idDldti(l$  of  Ontario, 

jt  CANADA,  jt 


The  Lake  Region  of  Muskoka 

possesses  Unsurpassed 

Advantages 

for  Holiday  Outings 

to  all 

Classes  of  the  Community. 


EXCELLENT  RAILWAY  AND  STEAMBOAT  CONNECTIONS 
Yia  MUSKOKA  WHARF,  GRAVENHURST. 

For  particulars  as  to  rates  and  time  cards,  apply  to 

Agents,  Grand  Trunk  Railway  System. 


J.  S.  PLAYFAIR,  Pres., 

34  Victoria  Street,  Toronto,  Ont. 


A.  P.  COCKBURN,  Mgr.  and  Sec'y, 

Qraveohurst,  Ont. 


A  HOUSE   BOAT,   HANDSOMELY   FURNISHED   AND   FULLY   EQUIPPED, 
TO  RENT  BY   MONTH  OR   SEASON. 

On  receipt  of  a  postal  to  MUSKOKA  NAVIGATION  CO.,  Toronto  or  Qraven- 
hurst,  an  illustrated  booklet  will  be  mailed  to  any  address. 


f  ■ 


anada." 

A 

Sunday), 
Poronto, 

thirty-six 

Qument, 

'   of    the 
six  hours 

principal 

iger, 

any 

uskoka 
ssed 

igs 

unity. 


nUEBEC  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY,  Ltd. 

W  MONTREAIi,  aUEBEC,  NEW  BRUNSWICK, 

\  PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND,  AND  NOVA  SCOTIA. 

The  twIn-Bcrew  iron  steainship  Carapaiia  (1,700  tons)  leaves  Montreal  and  Pictou,  Nova 
Scotia,  alternately  every  Monday,  cailiii2  at  (Quebec,  Father  Point,  Gaspfi,  F'erefi,  Summer- 
side,  and  Charlottetown,  Prince  Edward  Island.  Excursion  tickets  antl  connections  to  all 
parts  of  Canada,  the  United  Stutiw,  and  Newfoundland. 

The  route  oilers  special  attractions  to  tourists  during  the  summer  months. 


BERMUDA  ROYAL  HAIL  LINE. 

The  mamiflcent  new  powerful  passeneer  steamers  Trinidad  or  Orinoco,  now  on  this  route, 
leave  New  York  and  Bermuda  every  ten  days,  froiu  January  to  April,  weekly  up  to  June  Ist, 
and  then  every  alternate  Thursday  to  the  end  of  the  year. 


St.  Thomas,  St.  Croix,  St.  Kitt's,  Slontserrat,  Antigua,  Guadeloupe, 

Dominica,  Martinique,  St.  Lucia,  Barbadoes,  and  Demerara. 

The  magnificent  new  powerful  passenger  steainers  Pretoria  (3,300  tons),  Madiana  (3,080 
tons),  with  the  Caribbee  and  Fontabelle,  tor;n  a  Hue  to  these  i^^landa,  leaving  New  York 
every  ten  days.  

Tickets  for  sale  at  all  the  principal  Ticket  Offices  la  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and 
at  Thomas  Cook  &  Sons'  Ticket  Otlices,  261  Broadway,  New  York,  and  agencies  of  R.  M. 
Slocking,  in  Canada. 

A.  F.  0UTERBRID6E  &  CO.,  Agents,  39  Broadway,  New  York. 

ARTHUR  AHERN,  Secretary,  Quebec,  Canada. 

Avenue  House. 

Select  Family  Hotel, 

17,  19,  21,  and  23  McGill  College  Ave.,  Montreal. 


Unmrpasned for  its  central  position,  being 
equally  convetdeiit  for  business  or  pleasure. 


E.  S.  Reynolds,  Manager, 

Telephone  No.  4889. 


ROOMS  FROM  $1.50  TO  $2.00  PER  DAY. 
Take  a  hack  and  drive  direct  to  the  hotel ;  same  price  as  by  'bus. 


stem. 

Sec'y, 

hurst.  Out. 


Graven- 


LUCKY  BARGEE. 

A  Novel.    By  Harry  Lander.     i2mo.     Cloth,  $1.25. 

Mr.  Lander's  theme  is  out  of  the  common,  like  his  treatment  which  invests  a 
realistic  subject  with  picturesqueness  and  peculiar  interest.  His  story  offers  a  series 
of  vivid  sketches  of  life  on  a  Thames  barge,  together  with  glimpses  of  unfamiliar 
phases  of  poor  life  in  London.  The  plot  is  original,  and  the  brisk  action  of  the  tale 
arrests  and  holds  the  reader's  interest. 


D.  APPLETON   AND   COMPANY,  NEW  YORK. 


Lake  Champlain 
pf  Lake  George, 


This  route  offers 
attractions  to  the 
plea  sure -seekers 
unsurpassed  by 
those  of  any  line 
of  summer  travel* 


(( 


The  Gateway 
of  the 


^ 


^    Country/' 


Elegant  and  commodious  steamers  pass  in  sight  of  some  of  the 
grandest  scenery  and  most  noted  historical  points  in  America^ 
and  with  rail  and  stage  connections  give  the  Tourist  an  oppor- 
tunity to  visit  the  Forests^  Streams^  Lakes^  and  Mountains  of 
this  famous  region.     ^^j^^^^,^jfi^Jt 


Main  and  close  connections  with  all  trains  on  the  Delaware  &  Hi.dson  Railroad  at 
Caldwell  and  Fort  Ticonderoga  to  and  from  Lake  George,  Saratoga,  Albany,  New 
York,  and  points  south.  At  Plattsburg,  for  Thousand  Islands,  Ogdensburg,  Mont- 
real, and  Quebec.  At  Plattsburg,  with  Chateaugay  Railroad  for  all  points  in  the 
Adirondack  Mountains.  At  Burlington,  with  the  Central  Vermont  and  Rutland 
Railroads  for  White  and  Green  Mountain  resorts,  and  all  points  in  New  England. 
At  Port  Kent,  for  Ausable  Chasm. 

Meals  served  on  board.  The  morning  trains  from  the  north  have  no  boat  connec- 
tions on  Lake  Champlain.  Take  afternoon  train  and  lodge  at  Plattsburg.  Staterooms 
can  be  had  on  board  steamer.  Parties  using  staterooms  night  before  can  have  use  of 
same  during  the  passage  through  Lake  Champlain.     Price  of  rooms,  $i.oo  to  $2.00. 

For  descriptive  book  and  time  tables^  address 

QEORQE  RUSHLOW,  General  Manager, 

BURLINGTON,  VT. 


O 


a 


ge, 


ay 


J* 


»> 


f  the 
t>Por- 


Railroad  at 
Ibany,  New 
3urg,  Mont- 
)ints  in  the 
id  Rutland 
w  England. 

oat  connec- 
Staterooms 
have  use  of 
>  to  $2.00. 

anager, 


THE  NEW  HOFFMAN  HOUSE, 

NEW  YORK. 

ABSOLUTELY  FIREPROOF.  FRONTS  ON  BROADWAY  AND 
MADISON  SQUARE,  ENJOYING  THE  MOST  DELIGHTFUL 
AND  IMPORTANT  LOCATION  IN  THIS  CITY.  IN  MIDST  OF 
THE  GREAT  SHOPPING  AND  AMUSEMENT  DISTRICT.  THE 
MANAGEMENT  FEEL  THAT  THEY  CAN  EXTEND  TO  LADIES 
AND  FAMILIES  MANY  CONVENIENCES  AND  COMFORTS  NOT 
FOUND  ELSEWHERE,  AND  THAT  IN  ALL  ITS  NUMEROUS 
APPOINTMENTS  IT  WILL  COMPARE  FAVORABLY  WITH 
ANY   HOTEL   IN   THE   WORLD. 

SPECIAL  ATTENTION  IS  CALLED  TO  THE  ENTIRE 
PLUMBING  SYSTEM,  NEWLY  CONSTRUCTED  ACCORDING  TO 
THE   LATEST   SANITARY   REQUIREMENTS. 

TURKISH  AND  RUSSIAN  BATHS  ALSO  ON  THE  PREMISES. 


/.   F.    CADDAGAN,  Manager. 


:    ONTARIO 


83   A  Swd-i 


Grt'i'nwicli 


r    ONTARIO     ^ 


l„<>ii;i/H,/>-0     (r.i/ T.I  froxi  H    Oi'txivih 


Longituiie  ^  East  i'   /rom     u  W'ashinsto 


Copyright ;^i^y>  by  J'/ti  .WA:i/tr:fs-*\jrr  "iruf  Cff;  Comfhtt  Bngraving  &.  Pr 


'i- O     H',itn'/r0tn  H    Cr/tMU'uh 


3 


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Up^to^Date  Map  of 

QUEBEC. 

Alto  Published  Indexed  In  Veat-Pocket  StylSi 

SCALE  or  S-iTCTETIILES. 

IP  •  0  10  S3  |{ 


30  MtLtS  TU  THE  iNCrii 


6 


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nV  Q  East*'   /rom     u  ll'ashi>igton  ■ 


M 


7'Sart  ^r«/»  Ctf..  ComfiiU  Engraving  &.  Printing  ff'arJks,  Bt^ato  and  Ntw  YorW* 


O'/fv''!-  'Stit^J'  V/l*  iUtthtws-Northrup  Co.,  CJ'lflttc  l-.'iiravmg  6*  PriK 


on^itUiit 


S'-jrth  rup  C9.%  QjynpUte  i.  't^ravinj^  O*  rrmtin;  It^ontst  Bn^ato  and  Xew  YorA 


NORTHWESTERN  CA: 


WESTERN  CANADA 


